770 carb

IP: 216.223.178.13 Posted on November 28, 2004 at 09:17:26 AM by rich

I have rebuilt carb, runs good at idle but when in last notch on throttle it shoots flame out stack and pops. Back throttle off one notch runs great.Also want to build 12000# farm stock puller using oliver tractor any ideas on what be best 1850, 2050 ect. thanks

Re(1): 770 carb

IP: 65.6.34.35 Posted on November 28, 2004 at 11:40:00 AM by George

The farm stock puller, I would use a rear and trans from a 1850 hunt down a tub from a 2135 or 2180 and get a hercules or a Cat 3208. Either way will make plenty or power for a farm stock class. The reason for the 1850 rearend, if in the future you want to move up performance wise and lighten your tractor some the 1850 rear is a bunch easier to work with than a 2255 rear. Plus you get the dry brakes and they are easier to work on than the wet. The only thing I might suggest on the 770 is to check the timing.

Re(2): 770 carb

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on November 28, 2004 at 08:56:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Another thing on the 770, you may have a weak intake valve spring. Concerning the pulling tractor, I have a 1950 T rear end assembly, which would be a good choice for what you want to do. If you are interested, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

super 88 diesel 1956

IP: 170.224.224.121 Posted on November 26, 2004 at 11:34:44 PM by Robert Cook

Need to know paint no. for grille. Need output shaft for transmission. Also wheel color. Have a three point hitch to sell for an 88 what is the value for this?

Re(1): super 88 diesel 1956

IP: 67.2.248.20 Posted on November 27, 2004 at 00:08:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I use JD yellow for the grills on a S88. The wheels are Oliver Meadow Green. Do you mean the bevel pinion shaft, which is the bottom shaft? I have whichever one you need. Is the 3 pt. an Oliver hitch or is it an after market hitch? Please email this info to me at: cobalt@rconnect.com. Larry

Super 55 diesel

IP: 152.163.100.10 Posted on November 26, 2004 at 01:15:40 PM by David Heath

I just purchased a super 55 diesel,s/n 56-612-519. I understand that it is a 1958 model.Is this correct? I want to restore the tractor,and would like to know the exact color scheme and decal placement for this unit. I also need info on where to find parts such as oe light brkts, tool box cover, rad cap cover,misc.ele. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, David

Re(1): Super 55 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.20 Posted on November 27, 2004 at 00:01:02 AM by Larry Harsin

My book says that this tractor is a 1957. The color scheme is meadow green for the main part. The grills will be yellow and the wheels will be red. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net There will be a picture in the manual that will show you the placement of the decals. Korves Bros. is a good source for these parts. 618-939-6681. Another good source is Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1850 Hydropower unit

IP: 67.235.101.36 Posted on November 24, 2004 at 02:05:06 PM by Charles

Hi Larry! The output shaft seal was leaking. I replaced seal and o ring, and now both input shaft seal and output shaft seals are leaking. I have checked regulator valve and it was sticking. I removed the valve spool and smoothed the spool. I reinstalled. Checked relief valve, spring length was 2.5". parts book says it should be 3.5" someone had put a 1" spool behind spring to make up the difference. Could this be causing high pressure in the lubricating system and pushing oil out the seals? Also,by using serial #211067-603 and model #499-22050, can you tell me what year this tractor was built?

Re(1): 1850 Hydropower unit

IP: 67.2.248.245 Posted on November 25, 2004 at 08:43:07 AM by Larry Harsin

That could possibly be causing your leak problem. If it was me, I would try to get it back to the way it was originally.The 1850 ser. no. 211067 is a late model built in 1968. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Hydropower unit

IP: 209.50.4.198 Posted on November 27, 2004 at 01:35:10 AM by bastar

Answer to your questions on the serial and specification numbers is: #211 067 was built in 1968. The last last three digits "603" is a low or standard speed transmission for a 1950T. Specification #499 is a model 1950T, was built with an adjustable front axle and diesel (as all were) engine.

550 3 point lift capacity

IP: 12.108.201.6 Posted on November 22, 2004 at 08:22:37 PM by Jerry

What is the lift capacity of a 550's 3 point hitch system?

Re(1): 550 3 point lift capacity

IP: 67.2.249.141 Posted on November 23, 2004 at 00:17:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is approx. 1000 lbs. Larry

Re(2): 550 3 point lift capacity

IP: 65.6.34.35 Posted on November 27, 2004 at 10:24:06 PM by George

Ours will pick up a 1500lb. roll of hay but the front is a little light.

1650 Oliver Gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 11:48:56 AM by Chuck

Larry, I have a 1650 Oliver Gas that some white steam coming from the valve cover vent tube. How much steam is considered to much? The radiator level does drop some, however, just had radiator repaired and cannot say how much it will drop now under load. Was leaking quite a bit before. Also have seen some discussion regarding carbs on your site. Are these carburetors difficult to rebuild and adjust? Thanks, Chuck

Re(1): 1650 Oliver Gas

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 05:22:30 PM by Ron

That's coolant in the crankcase making the white smoke coming out the crankcase vent. Pressure test the cooling system, run a cylinder leakdown test, etc. to determine exactly where it's coming from. Don't delay, even a small amount of coolant in the oil will quickly destroy the bearings. If the engine was overheated from the radator problem, most likely the head is warped which tore the head gasket. The head will need to be resurfaced, the gasket and head bolts replaced. The Marvel-Schebler TSX-807 carburetor is the easiest carburetor on the planet to rebuild. It takes longer to get it off the tractor than it does to rebuild. Get a quality rebuild kit from an AGCO dealer. It will include all the jets and gaskets. The correct adjustments are in the Operator's Manual.

Re(2): 1650 Oliver Gas

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 10:01:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I don' t have anything to add to this. Ron gave a good explanation. Larry

Re(3): 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 14, 2004 at 00:57:37 AM by Chuck

Larry, Rebuilt 1650 carb because it would not run without choke partially closed. After rebuild with kit from O'Brien and a new power jet, I cannot get the tractor to run without the choke partially to fully closed. Checked all passages and they are NOW fully open. Some were partially obscured prior to rebuild. All of the rebuild process seemed standard with nothing improper noted. Help! Thanks, Chuck

Re(4): 1650 gas

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on November 14, 2004 at 07:59:00 AM by Ron

Float level might be wrong. Float might be hanging up. Both the small (low speed) and large (load) screws must be properly adjusted. Procedure is in the manual. Gas might be full of water. Check for vacuum leak between carburetor base and manifold with spray can of carb/choke cleaner with engnine running. Any change in sound/speed indicates a vacuum leak. Also check for vacuum leak between each intake port and head. Any dirt between the float needle and seat or a damaged float needle/seat will cause this but you would notice gas dripping out the vent at the bottom of the carburetor .

Re(5): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 01:34:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Also, remove the fuel strainer from the bottom of the tank and make sure there is no obstruction so that it can get adequate fuel. I have seen this so many times. After trying all of these things, if it still doesn't run properly, I would install a carburetor off of another 1650 that is running properly and see how that works. That may help you to discover what is wrong. Larry

Re(6): 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 01:53:20 AM by Chuck

Ron & Larry, Removed fuel from tank and removed sediment bulb assembly and cleaned, Both OK. Just rebuilt carb and adjusted float level according to instructions with kit. Installed and adjusted idle jet out 2 turns. Installed new power jet and adjusted out 3.5 turns. Removed vacuum line at manifold and plugged. Have not checked vacuum leak at carb yet. Carb cleaner can empty!!!. I did clean, soak in solvent and blow out with air all parts of the carb not in the new kit. The kit contained a new float seat and needle. New needle was not all metal but had a composition point. After assembly and tractor warmed up at idle it ran perfectly for about 3 to 4 minutes with at high rpm, then began to misfire and had to pull out the choke to keep it running.

Re(7): 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 01:54:42 AM by Chuck

Ron & Larry, Removed fuel from tank and removed sediment bulb assembly and cleaned, Both OK. Just rebuilt carb and adjusted float level according to instructions with kit. Installed and adjusted idle jet out 2 turns. Installed new power jet and adjusted out 3.5 turns. Removed vacuum line at manifold and plugged. Have not checked vacuum leak at carb yet. Carb cleaner can empty!!!. I did clean, soak in solvent and blow out with air all parts of the carb not in the new kit. The kit contained a new float seat and needle. New needle was not all metal but had a composition point. After assembly and tractor warmed up at idle it ran perfectly for about 3 to 4 minutes with at high rpm, then began to misfire and had to pull out the choke to keep it running.

Re(8): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 00:21:09 AM by Larry Harsin

It may be that the needle and seat is not large enough to let enough gas in there. I would suggest that you get a different one. If you don't have a place to get one, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(9): 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 02:16:46 AM by Chuck

I hate to be ignorant, but where is the vent at the bottom of the carb that will drip gas with then needle is stuck. I do not know where it is. Also in the parts book I see a strainer listed however have not seen one in my carb nor any reference to such an item in the AGCO carb kit.

Re(10): 1650 gas

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 04:21:23 AM by Ron

Some call it a screen, strainer, or vent. It's at the bottom of the carb throat, about the diameter of a pencil eraser. The fact your engine ran well for a few minutes and then required choke tells me that dirt made it's way from the tank and became trapped between the float needle and seat. It only takes a tiny bit of dirt to keep the needle off the seat. You can insert an automotive type paper element filter between the tank and carb, a NAPA 3033 or the like. It will trap all dirt large enough to be a problem. Then be sure to blow out the fuel line from the carb back to the filter or better yet replace it. The carb will have to come apart and be cleaned again. Visually check that the float neeedle/seat are perfectly clean.

Re(11): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 00:24:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Ron has given you a complete answer. Larry

Re(12): 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on November 22, 2004 at 00:30:33 AM by Chuck

Larry, The right lower lift support link on the 3 pt lift is leaking considably where the arm enters the tractor rear assembly. I assume it needs a new seal. Left side not leaking. I have shop manual and would appreciate any infomation and tips for removal and repair of the seal. The unit appears to operate properly, however, at very low rpm does not lift until rpm is raised to 2000 or so. Your observations are appreciated. Chuck

Re(13): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 22, 2004 at 07:03:53 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to remove the PTO assembly from the tractor as the Shop Manual says. I have no special tips for this. On getting the high rpms to get it to lift, if the steering is working o.k., I would suspect the problem on the slow lift to be in the area of the servo valve on the 3 pt. hitch. Be sure the bypass valve is screwed all the way in, as it says in your Operator's Manual. If this does not help, you may have a sticking regulator spool in the servo valve. Larry

Super 88 oliver

IP: 64.68.170.72 Posted on November 21, 2004 at 11:15:48 PM by David

Do you have any idea at about serial number the super 88 started using the larger axles the original 88 used 2.750 dia and later ones used 2.875 dia. also when did oliver start putting the exhaust straight thru the hood and went away from the offset muffler?

Re(1): Super 88 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 22, 2004 at 06:57:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Both of these things happened with tractor serial number 6503. Larry

Front seal Oliver 70

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on November 21, 2004 at 09:41:11 PM by Larry Kruse

Just started up my Oliver 70 after a tear down and my front crankshaft seal is leaking heavy. I know I need to take the radiator off again and replace the seal. Do you have any modern seal numbers to replace Oliver parts numbers: B-126 Seal, frand crankshaft oil B-123-B Seal, Fan drive pulley dust B-123-A Retainer, Fan Drive pully felt? Any suggestions on how to do it better next time?

Re(1): Front seal Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 22, 2004 at 06:54:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the info that you want. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224. I have no suggestions on making the job easier. Larry

oliver 70

IP: 63.78.132.139 Posted on November 18, 2004 at 09:17:16 PM by Phil

I'm looking for a choke cable for Oliver 70; I believe that it should have a metal knob with "choke" stamped into it. All cables I can find do not have choke stamped into them. What have you used on Olie 70 restorations?

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on November 19, 2004 at 00:22:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Model 83 Corn picker parts

IP: 68.54.178.49 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 09:30:55 PM by Chris Pollock

I am looking for a gear box that drives the corn rollers ther are two on the picker one is shot. Or if possible could you let me know where I could find one

Re(1): Model 83 Corn picker parts

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on November 17, 2004 at 08:38:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry

Super 55

IP: 65.54.98.13 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 11:57:53 PM by Larry Nichols

Lucked into a '55 or '56 Super 55. $2700 spent 2 years ago on engine major, steering box overhaul, engine clutch and PTO clutch. Got it for $950 on a sealed bid auction. It is however stuck in reverse. Whats the best route to go about fixing it. Also, when they had it down they changed all fluids, putting hydraulic fluid in the lift, it never worked right since. If the correct oil is put in should it fix this. Thanks in advance

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 00:37:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the shift lever and see if I could get in there with a big screwdriver and try to move the shift rail with it. If that doesn't work, you may have to take the top off of the transmission (meaning the hydraulic system) and see what the problem is. You may want to get a Service Manual from Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. The correct oil in the lift would be a light non-foaming hydraulic oil. It's worth a try to see if this will make it work better. I'd also reccommend that you change the hydraulic filter. Larry

Oliver 500 PTO

IP: 152.163.100.10 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 09:59:24 PM by W Wynne

In order to engage the PTO on my Oliver 500; I have to turn off the engine. Is this normal? What could be causing this problem? The lift will not stay in the down position when trying to use the rotary mower. Is there an adjustment other than the draft control? Is there an operators manual with good repair procedures?

Re(1): Oliver 500 PTO

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 00:30:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Get a Service Manual at the Museum at Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net or Phone them: 641-228-1099. Perhaps that will answer your questions. I am not familiar with the David Brown system at all. Larry

wire diagram

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 09:27:11 PM by Roger Anderson

I need a wire diagram for 70RC. please help.

Re(1): wire diagram

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 00:26:51 AM by Larry Harsin

If you would get an Operator's Manual from Charles City, the wiring diagram is in it. It is a good idea to have this Manual anyway. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net or Phone them at: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 1650 front end

IP: 65.151.161.142 Posted on November 14, 2004 at 02:45:49 PM by Paul

Larry, I have a 1965 Oliver model 1650 Serial #168 diesel with a recessed front end. My question is how to replace the steering spindle.

Re(1): Oliver 1650 front end

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on November 15, 2004 at 01:49:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I assume you are talking about the pitman shaft in the center of the wide front. If so, you have to remove the cap from the top of the steering unit below the radiator. There is a pipe plug in the top of the cap that should be removed so that you can pry the cap up. If you have too much problem getting that cap off of the steering unit, you may have to remove the radiator. Sometimes, in order to get more room, I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the wide front end to the tractor frame (you can screw these bolts out approx. a half inch to give you more room to work in there). Also, the tin side panels could be removed to give you more room. There is a plug with an "O" ring on it in the top of the sector that you will need 2 screwdrivers at opposite sides to pry that out of there. After removal of the cap on the steering cylinder, you will need an inch and an eighth socket and a breaker bar to loosen the bolt that holds the sector onto the pitman shaft. When the bolt comes loose, you will turn it possibly 2 or 3 turns and it will start turning hard again. Just keep turning it out the way you are going, it is pulling that sector up off of that pitman shaft. It will pull quite hard before it lets go. After that has broken loose and you have the sector freed from the pitman shaft, you will have to remove it. You may have to take the steering cylinder out of the tractor or possibly you can remove the pitman shaft from the bottom. Larry

1950T turbo seals

IP: 67.140.102.228 Posted on November 10, 2004 at 07:17:49 PM by larry waldren

I have a cast ring between the turbo and elbow that is leaking,looks like there was at sometime sometype of fiber donut between the two.Now new parts call for 3 piece ring set,are these new parts new and improved,or should I hold out for an old replacement #.Old Oliver part was 165 731-A new alternates are 30-3002357/1393/and2381

Re(1): 1950T turbo seals

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on November 11, 2004 at 00:15:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know, but I would assume that the new numbers are the new and improved version. I havn't had this problem. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. He will know. Larry

Re(2): 1950T turbo seals

IP: 67.140.103.134 Posted on November 17, 2004 at 10:04:58 PM by Larry W.

Called Tom got to talk to his father Great guy he had a used 3 piece new model seal that he let me have for more than half off of a new one.I highly recomend this dealer to anyone looking for parts.3 days after I called my Oliver is running again Thanks Larry

550 brakes

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on November 8, 2004 at 08:54:06 PM by Marc

Hello again Mr. Harsin I have asked you ab out my oliver 550 a lot. I still have not figured out the year but I have found most parts I need. the question is does the brake pedals have extra springs to pull them up after using them. The brakes on my 550 look new but they are loocking up and wont let loose so i pulled them off.Didnt know where to get new disk brakes.Thanks Marc.

Re(1): 550 brakes

IP: 205.188.116.203 Posted on November 8, 2004 at 10:04:43 PM by john

hi i just replaced the brakes on my 550. you can get them at korves oliver .com after i installed them they were locking up on me as well. i had read in a previous post somewhere to losseng the 3 big bolts a hair and it worked. good luck

Re(2): 550 brakes

IP: 207.144.87.79 Posted on November 9, 2004 at 00:58:32 AM by J. Mash

YES, JUST TIGHTEN THE THREE BIG BOLTS ENOUGH TO FLATTEN THE LOCKWASHERES. MORE THAN THAT DISTORTS THE DRUM.I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY.

Re(3): 550 brakes

IP: 152.163.100.202 Posted on November 9, 2004 at 07:02:21 PM by marc

Thanks for the help on the brakes everyone. Marc

Re(4): 550 brakes

IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on November 9, 2004 at 11:56:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear you guys are getting things figured out. Korves has the pedal return springs. You have to have them on there. Korves phone: 618-939-6681. Also, the springs that hold the actuator pates together on the inside, have to be up to snuff or your brakes will not work right. Larry

Re(5): 550 brakes

IP: 207.144.175.101 Posted on November 10, 2004 at 10:11:37 PM by J. Mash

MARC, LARRY IS RIGHT AS USUAL. I FORGOT TO TELL YOU I REPLACED ALL THE SPRINGS ON MY ACTUATOR PLATES. YOU MAY THINK YOURS ARE OKAY, BUT WHEN YOU PUT NEW ONES ON YOU CAN REALLY TELL A DIFFERENCE.ALSO MAKE SURE THE PEDAL SPRINGS ARE STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD THE PEDALS UP AGAINST THE RUBBER BUMPERS. I HAVE ALSO LEARNED THAT IF YOU GET THE BREAKS A LITTLE TO TIGHT THEY WILL DRAG WHEN THE TRACTOR SITS A LITTLE WHILE THE ACTUATORS WILL RUST. AT THE SAME TIME IF YOU GET THEM TO LOSE IT WILL STRECH THE ACTUATOR SPRINGS, AND YOU HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN. ALSO LEAVING YOUR BREAKS ON FOR LONG PEROIDS OF TIME WILL WEAKEN YOUR ACTUATOR SPRINGS. ONE MORE THING, MAKE SURE YOUR BULLPINION SEALS ARE NOT LEEKING OIL, THIS WILL RUIN THE BREAK DISKS, AND MAKE THEM VERY GRABBY. WE HAVE TWO 550'S, I HAVE LEARNED ALL THIS BY TRIAL AND ERROR. I HOPE THIS HELPS. J. MASH

Oliver 70 generator

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 11:10:09 PM by Larry

The resistor wire on my light switch control is broken. Is it possible to use an external resistor to control the current provided from this switch to the Field terminal of the generator? I am afraid that full voltage would cause some malfuntion of the charging system. Thanks for you help.

Re(1): Oliver 70 generator

IP: 67.2.249.120 Posted on November 7, 2004 at 03:03:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I don't know of any reason it wouldn't work. You'll just have to try it and see. Larry

governor

IP: 4.224.72.38 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 06:21:21 PM by curt

larry, thanks for the info you post here. my problem is that im using a diesel 88 block converted to gas and the governor doesn't seem to want to bolt up, like the shaft is too long or there is something in the front of the block preventing it from being in the right position. do i need to change something in the front of the block or what do you think my problem may be?? thanks curt

Re(1): governor

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 08:04:13 PM by Larry Harsin

In that hole where the governor goes, there is a plug that you have to remove. After removal of the plug, if the governor doesn't fit properly, you will have to obtain a governor bushing for the block. I have these if you need one. Email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

CAM

IP: 152.163.100.10 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 02:55:35 PM by andy

my 1850 gas has no cam button does it need one or not Thanks Andy.

Re(1): CAM

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 08:00:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it does. I have one if you want it, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com It is the same as a 77 or an 88 uses. Larry

noise in bell housing

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 07:32:33 PM by William Walling

Larry, how do I get inside the bell housing? I do not have my manual yet, but have it ordered. Do I have to pull the engine or etc. any advise? This is on a 1953 Oliver 88 Row Crop Diesel. Thanks

Re(1): noise in bell housing

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 00:04:29 AM by Larry Harsin

To remove the bell housing, I normally fold the dash up over the engine and remove the belt pulley gear box, if it has one. You don't have to pull the engine. Larry

wick style rocker arms

IP: 12.223.128.110 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 05:14:05 PM by Randy pinner

i am restoring a row crop 88 and it has the earlier style wick rockers i was wondering if you can get replacement wicks for that also i read you can change them to the new style rockers but are diesel rockers and gas rockers the same or interchangable

Re(1): wick style rocker arms

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 00:01:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, wicks are available from AGCO. The diesel rockers and gas rockers are the same, except that the diesel rockers are spaced differently, with washers. You would have to rearrange them to match your early style. Larry

1850 hydraulics

IP: 66.97.237.168 Posted on November 4, 2004 at 08:35:57 PM by DanF

Last winter I had hydraulic oil going into the rearend. When I pulled the top deck off I found that the cotter key in the gear between the PTO shaft and the pump gear had come out and the stub shaft had slid backward and bored a hole in the front of the hydraulic resevoir. I am now getting hydraulic oil in the rear end again but this time I'm also getting foaming of the hydraulic oil. Have I got a seal out of the pump or something like that?

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 04:57:52 AM by Ron

Any time the oil level is low the pump beats air into it causing the foaming you see. Water in the oil, from condensation, makes the foaming worse. My best guess is you have the same problem as before but you'll have to tear into it to know for sure.

Re(2): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 11:58:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Ron. Larry

Re(3): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 63.188.224.225 Posted on November 16, 2004 at 09:59:12 PM by todd

i have an oliver 1850 the hydraulics quit working instantly could something come loose were could i find abreakdown on pump location and how to get to it

Re(4): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on November 17, 2004 at 08:47:11 AM by Larry Harsin

You could have had the splines come off of a shaft, or a front drive hub might have disintegraded or broken, or it could be like the problem above where that shaft came out and dropped a gear. You need to call Charles City and get a Parts Manual and a Shop Manual for your tractor. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or call them: 641-228-1099. Larry

super55 steering box

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 12:01:51 PM by butch coulter

i need a little help i just got my parts to rebuild my steering box. i looked in my i&t manual and it does not show how to time or line everything up so it will work right and i'm not sure how i took the sectors out. thank you

Re(1): super55 steering box

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 10:03:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Everything has to be centered in their range of travel when you assemble them. Larry

super55 steering box

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on November 4, 2004 at 01:09:02 PM by butch coulter

i just got all the stuff to rebuild my steering box from o'brien imp co and started to put it together and started to think of what kind of fluid to put it it i was going to put 90-140 in it. but tom from o'brien's said to put grease in it now im confused which is the best thank you butch

Re(1): super55 steering box

IP: 142.22.16.54 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 10:40:23 PM by Super 55

Originally it called for oil, but now grease is what is suppose to go in according to my manual.

Re(2): super55 steering box

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on November 5, 2004 at 11:55:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd use Corn Head grease. Larry

super 88 engine identification

IP: 209.236.225.244 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 05:33:11 PM by Larry A. Dawley

Larry How can I tell if my super 88 has the correct motor and not just a regular 88 motor without disassembling the motor. Thanks Larry.....

Re(1): super 88 engine identification

IP: 67.2.249.232

Posted on November 1, 2004 at 10:05:22 PM by Larry Harsin The engine block will probably have an ID number of KA100E if it is a S88. This is above the starter on the left side. Larry

1850 Hyd. question

IP: 63.168.199.130 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 06:39:12 PM by Paul

Hi Larry, I just put a loader on my dads 1850 Oliver and hooked into the tractors hyd system. I am haveing problems with settleing out of one of the romotes. Would this be a sign of a broken oring on that spool? If so is there an easy way to take the spoon out and rebuild it? I have had the cap off going to the rear of the tractor because the snap ring was popped out its grove. I when I moved the handle with that cover off I did have kinda a popping sound. Thanks Paul

Re(1): 1850 Hyd. question

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 11:00:09 PM by Larry Harsin

That is possible, but it could also be a thermal relief valve. To replace the thermal relief valve, the top lid on the hydraulic system has to be removed. Larry

Oliver 60 grill

IP: 216.19.8.4 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 09:53:30 AM by Jim

Larry, Will The front grill from an Oliver 60 also fit on an Oliver 70?

Re(1): Oliver 60 grill

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 10:57:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Larry

1800 and 2150 Rearends

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 07:53:39 AM by Jeremy in Ohio

I was told by a guy out in Indiana that there is no difference at all between the rear-ends in the 2150 and 1800? I find that hard to believe since the 2150 is so much bigger. Is this guy right?

Re(1): 1800 and 2150 Rearends

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 10:56:29 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That is not right. The 2150 is a version of the 1800 with many upgrades that make it capable of handling the increased horsepower. Larry

Re(2): 1800 and 2150 Rearends

IP: 152.163.100.203 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 08:49:46 PM by Jeremy in Ohio

I guess what I am asking though, are the 1800 and 2150 rearend housings the same? Or is the 2150 a much heavier rearend?

Re(3): 1800 and 2150 Rearends

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on November 6, 2004 at 08:09:08 PM by Larry Harsin

The 2150 is heavier. It's the same basic layout, but it has been redesigned and is much heavier. Also, the 2150 has outboard planetaries, triple disc brakes, beefed up ring gear and pinion supports, just to name a few differences. The 1800 isn't strudy enough for all that power. Larry

Re(4): 1800 and 2150 Rearends

IP: 65.6.20.75 Posted on November 7, 2004 at 07:36:45 PM by George Steadman

I agree with Larry if you are going to farm with this comb. I also know from experience that an 1800 rear end in stock form will stand 850 horses for tractor pulling. I ran one in a 2255 for three years and never had a rear end or trans problem.

Model 399-22128

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 30, 2004 at 11:39:34 AM by julmer

How do you translate model # on serial builders tag into 1750, 1800, ect? I have the Larry Gay guide to Hart-Parr, ect with serial numbers, but haven't seen the secret code list to convert above type number into 1900 Industrial or whatever.

Re(1): Model 399-22128

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 30, 2004 at 11:55:00 AM by Julmer

P.S. The corpse above had a serial # 196-912-(603) or maybe "812". That serial # falls into range of 1968-1550,1967-1750,1967-1850,1967-1950,1967-1950-T. I know it was green, a row crop, had a hydraul and an in line 6 cyl diesel, but without side curtains saying "MODEL" i'm nearly lost. It was reposing in its final resting place in a gravel pits cemetary with lots of good Hanc--k yellow paint and some IHC/Dresser scrapers!!!

Re(2): Model 399-22128

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on October 30, 2004 at 12:53:01 PM by Larry from MD

The old 1950T that we had did have the last 3 numbers 603.So if that number is correct i would guess it was one.

Re(3): Model 399-22128

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 30, 2004 at 04:07:03 PM by julmer

I thought those last three numbers in the SERIAL number referred to the trans/rear end drive combo. Above the serial number on the plate is the 399ect under "MODEL"

Re(4): Model 399-22128

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on October 31, 2004 at 05:24:50 PM by Larry from MD

Yes but most models only used certian rear trans combos.Example a S55 is 518 and a 550 is 519.So the 603 is an educated guess not absolute proof.

Re(5): Model 399-22128

IP: 207.201.209.250 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 09:22:28 AM by Myron KY

Pretty good educated guess there Larry. Julmer, From what info I have (and I can't say that it's 100% correct), model numbers beginning 399 and 499 are for the 1950T. The first number, after the dash, is front axle type. In this case "2", means adjustable, wide front, row crop axle. The second digit after the dash is engine type. In this case "2" means Diesel engine. The remaining 3 digits are codes for the hydraulics, PTO, and 3 point. I don't know how to decipher these codes. The Floyd County Museum has the build cards and I believe they are working on deciphering these codes. I got my info from The Oliver Gang site. It may still be on there.

Re(6): Model 399-22128

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on November 1, 2004 at 07:52:13 PM by J Ulmer

Thanks guys. I've been on JD and IHC when growing up in the 60's, but there wasn't much Oliver Green around the Texas Panhandle close. Brownfield and Lamesa 100 miles or south had successful dealers who probably put out a lot of units, but those guys growing cotton in sandy land on fairly large acres used them up by the mid 80's. I still see a few Whites down around that country, but most of them are used also. Planting, fighting sand, replanting, and fighting more sand could be 8-15 trips over 1000 to 3000 acres. Lots of guys put over 2000 hours a year on their farming units and that gets to high hours in a lot shorter time than smaller, more climate friendly locales.

Loader

IP: 65.73.80.187 Posted on October 29, 2004 at 03:38:55 PM by Mike

Can I run a hydralic loader on a 770/880 ? Will I need more fluid cap.

Re(1): Loader

IP: 67.2.249.65 Posted on October 29, 2004 at 10:20:52 PM by Larry Harsin

You will need a reservoir tank. I'd also reccommend a 2 spool auxillary valve to be tapped into the power beyond port. Larry

Waukesha engine

IP: 207.190.73.153 Posted on October 28, 2004 at 08:08:54 PM by Rick

Was going thru a salvage yard today and found a 451cu in waukesha engine. Do you know any specs such as length as compared to motors used in oliver tractors?

Re(1): Waukesha engine

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on October 28, 2004 at 08:35:58 PM by Larry Harsin

A 451 cu in will not fit in any Oliver tractor that I know of. Is it a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? There is a 443 cu in in the Oliver 99 4 cylinder. Larry

Re(2): Waukesha engine

IP: 207.190.73.153 Posted on October 28, 2004 at 10:04:15 PM by Rick

It is a 6 cylinder

Re(3): Waukesha engine

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on October 29, 2004 at 06:52:42 AM by Ron

Waukesha made dozens of different type industrial engines. Oliver used only a very few of them.

1650 Direct Injection Cam

IP: 216.190.67.98 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 08:18:21 PM by Steve Merritt

The spec in the shop manual for cam lift is .302 for both intake and exhaust. I can't find anything on the minimum allowed lift. The lift on my cam measures .288. Would you say this is acceptable? I'd love to replace it but I'm having a difficult time finding a reconditioned camshaft. Thanks, I alway appreciate your help.

Re(1): 1650 Direct Injection Cam

IP: 67.2.248.152 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 11:33:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you are going to have to get a different cam. I don't think that is acceptable. You might check with Valu-Bilt and see if they have a cam for your tractor. 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Direct Injection Cam

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on October 29, 2004 at 06:55:17 AM by Ron

If VB doesn't have one, any large machine shop or cam manufacturer can custom make one for you. They need the old cam and the correct bearing and all lobe specs from the service manual.

1755

IP: 209.180.79.91 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 03:24:33 PM by Allen

Having problems with the hydralics. I,ve replaced three lines in the past couple of months. Now leaking up threw the steering. Acts like its building to much pressure. is there a relief valve i can adjust. thanks.

Re(1): 1755

IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on October 29, 2004 at 09:07:14 AM by Larry Harsin

The pressure to that steering system should range from 2000 - 2200. If you have been popping hydraulic lines, you probably have too much pressure. I have not encountered the problem that you are discribing. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1850 Gas

IP: 4.166.252.24 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 09:43:59 PM by Johnnie T

Iam doing a complete overhaul on tractor and have 2 questions. Tractor had a delco dist not orginal talked to Tom at Obrien imp. about a mallory dist. Was wondering what U thought about going with reg points etc r a electronic ign. Also found button clutch in tractor has groved my flywheel bad was thinking about making repairs to flywheel and pressure plate and going with reg clutch instead of button clutch. Your thoughts on this idea. Thanks in advance and enjoy your site

Re(1): 1850 Gas

IP: 67.2.249.127 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 08:49:24 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are going to do something different, I would favor going to the solid state ignition. Possibly, It would be easier to find solid state components for the Delco-Remy. Use your own good judgement on the clutch. The lining type clutch is not all bad. I like the lining type clutch because they aren't so destructive to the flywheels. Larry

Diesel or propane

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 09:17:34 PM by julmer

Hi folks. I'm needing to come up with a tractor to pull a drag type small elevating scraper and a 14 foot shredder. My 1486 IHC (125+ hp) is too big (and only has 1000 rpm PTO) In the 65-80 hp range on the later tractors (00,50,&55series) should I stay away from particular models or propane or diesel units? Dad bought a 1964 IHC 706 which had much beefed up rear end and tranny over the 560's, but hopping up the motor for power with higher compression burnt the valves. After three shop trips the dealer put in concave pistons lowering the compression, lessening the power and economy, but stopping the valves from burning so we had a "NEW" 560!!(power wise) Since their shifters wore linkages and you could not get them in gear, I thought I'd get me a green tractor as I know what a horse my Hanc--k scraper rear end and tranny are. The more I've learned from following you guys the better I like OLIVER so please point me toward what I should look for and what I should stay away from. I like the looks of your 1650, ect, but the freight hauling it to Texas would kill me, so I want to scour the pastures on our back roads closer to home. Keep up the great work and enjoy your "retirement"!!!(The brake pedals and rods I installed when I had the scraper apart you sent worked great!!!)

Re(1): Diesel or propane

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 06:35:15 AM by Ron

A 1650 would be perfect. Get one with Hydraul-Shift and you have 18F speeds and 6R speeds. They all have live, independent PTO, live dual remote hydraulics, and power steering. You might want to think again about Larry's 1650. The cost to transport will be much less than the cost of repairs another tractor might need. Larry won't steer you wrong. Good luck whichever way you go.

Re(2): Diesel or propane

IP: 67.2.249.127 Posted on October 27, 2004 at 08:43:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1650 I have, doesn't have hydraul shift. I have on hand some components that would make a terriffic tractor! The first thing being a 1950T chassis. This would have the strong transmission and differential assembly. From there, you might want to consider a Perkins engine with hydraul behind it. I don't have a Perkins engine at present. I do have, though, a 1955 tractor with a running 310 engine in need of a rebuild. Now this engine and hydraul would drop right into that 1950T or it could be left in the 1955 chassis. Another thought, I have an 1850 gas with hydraul shown on the website. Under heavy continous use, I think the engine would have to be overhauled. It runs fine, but has blow-by. However, when the engine is warmed up good, the oil pressure is o.k. We also have the 1855 gas with hydraul and dual speed PTO. This is a few possibilities that we have. Larry

olivers

IP: 66.244.71.87 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 02:28:58 AM by michael k moore

what state or region would have the highest concentration of oliver tractors and collectors? i know it is not my area [southern indiana]. thanks, mike

Re(1): olivers

IP: 69.179.11.210 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 06:25:09 AM by Ron

Wisconsin and Minnesota.

Re(2): olivers

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 07:58:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Northeast Iowa has a lot of Oliver collectors. That is where the tractors were built. There are a lot of collectors in Illinois, Ohio and Pennsylvania, also. I am amazed at how many loyal Oliver fans and collectors we have ALL OVER the country. Looking at the HPOCA Membership lists, all of these listed have a lot of members. However, there are a lot of Oliver lovers who may own 1, 2, or 3 and aren't members of the HPOCA. We hear from people in other countries all the time. People who have Olivers and are looking for parts or info. Larry

1988 Oliver Row Crop Diesel

IP: 152.163.100.10 Posted on October 25, 2004 at 08:39:03 PM by William Walling

I have a noise in the bell housing and the shaft coming out is loose. Your ideas are appreciated. I need a service catalogue of how to repair, where can I get one? Thanks alot

Re(1): 1988 Oliver Row Crop Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 07:50:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Service Manual from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net I suspect that you have a pilot bearing that has disentigrated. Larry

Super 55 axle u bolts

IP: 157.134.190.204 Posted on October 25, 2004 at 07:50:55 PM by Roy Fleming

Larry. I called my local dealer and was quoted $46each for the u bolts which attach the rear wheel mounts to the axle. is this a valid price?? Thanks Roy.

Re(1): Super 55 axle u bolts

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 00:41:40 AM by Super 55

Try some used ones.. Are yours badly rusted? I know of a dealer near me with some parts tractors and I bet they might be $46 for all six. Probably one near you.

Re(2): Super 55 axle u bolts

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 07:44:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I, too, would reccommend used ones if you can find some that are usable. Farmersville Equipment might be a good place to look for used ones. 717-354-2150. Sadly, that is the price of new ones. These new parts are getting very expensive. Larry

1600 & 1650 carbs

IP: 69.27.192.101 Posted on October 25, 2004 at 00:37:59 AM by Mikel Meeker

Dear Larry, My dad and I were told you were the man to talk to about our carb problems. We have 3 Oliver tractors (1) 1600 & (2) 1650's none of which the carb works right on. After some comparison and rebuilding the carbs we believe someone may have drilled out the jets or something, because they do not adjust right nor run quite right. If you have jet sizes for these carbs we would like to check them to see if they've been tampered with. Thank you very much, Mikel Meeker

Re(1): 1600 & 1650 carbs

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 07:39:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the jet sizes. I'm wondering if possibly they have put 3 7/8 bore pistons in the 1650's. If you have, it makes them hard to adjust properly so that they run right. The 1600 was notoriously bad for icing up and not running right. The only thing I could reccommend is send the carbs to me and I'll check them out. I may not be able to improve them, though. Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334

gm engine

IP: 66.244.73.95 Posted on October 24, 2004 at 07:48:32 PM by michael k moore

how do the gm engines do in a tractor pull? i go to pulls some but have never saw one pull/. i guess one reason being there is just not a lot of olivers in my part of the country southern indiana thanks mike moore

Re(1): gm engine

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 24, 2004 at 10:52:09 PM by Julmer

I've never been to a pull as they are not big down here, but Detroits have no lower end torque as they lug down... they are two-stroke like a Kawasaki dirt bike and have to be kept up in rpms as their torque curve falls off like that guys car rolling off the cliff in the insurance commercial as their speed drops out.

Re(2): gm engine

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on October 25, 2004 at 12:17:35 PM by Larry from MD

They are pulled a lot around here and they usually win in the 9000 and 10000 pound classes.Some places only go to 8000 and they have problems getting that low and then the balence is off and they spin out.Those tractors have plenty of power and it is never a problem in any class i have seen them pull.

Re(3): gm engine

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 00:45:01 AM by Super 55

Plus the two stroke diesel sounds beauuuuutiful. You can hear them pulling from a long way off. I remember the first time I saw one pull I couldn't believe the sound. The little JD diesels have the same sound,,,,, except dinkier.

Re(4): gm engine

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on October 26, 2004 at 07:48:08 PM by Larry Harsin

They are real crowd pleasers and they do quite well in our area. Northwest Iowa. Tractors with Detroit diesels are highly prized around here. Larry

transmission

IP: 12.21.152.22 Posted on October 22, 2004 at 10:56:00 PM by Brian Rotz

Larry, live in south Alabama and was hit by Hurricane Ivan badly, my 1955 Oliver super 77 diesel has been running pretty much daily, Something got hung in transmission only have the lower 4 gears can't get it to slide thru slot ino upper range, also when in reverse sometimes I hear a growling like. Any ideas? haven't had time to take off gear shift to try and unhang it,Is this possible to do or easy ? Thanks Brian

Re(1): transmission

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 07:16:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd just remove the gear shift lever and have a look. It has probably just gotten dislocated. Larry

gm engines

IP: 66.244.74.6 Posted on October 22, 2004 at 08:55:20 PM by michael k moore

the gm engines used in super99 990etc was that what today would be called a joint venture between oliverand gm? what was the idea behind this effort? just curious about this thank you very much mike

Re(1): gm engines

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 04:19:29 AM by julmer

Detroit Diesel manfactured a wide variety of sizes and adaptable configurations which were used as power in a vast array of equipment. As their business was motive power their efforts concentrated on providing more power at the most economical fuel costs. Their two cycle engines were relatively cheap, easy to work on, and light in weight compared to four=stroke diesels. Oliver engineers incorporated them as they had taken other engine manfacturers products to try and make a better product at the best cost for their customers. The later model 1900's which came out in the early 60's used detroit diesel's 4-53. In the 70's Oliver went outside to Caterpiller for the same reason, Cat was in the engine business and Oliver chose to outsource developed power rather than expending the resources required for inhouse development...getting it off the shelf was economically more viable.

Re(2): gm engines

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 07:14:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Jerry gives an excellent explanation. Larry

Re(3): gm engines

IP: 66.244.74.234 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 10:57:03 AM by michael k moore

thanks a lot for your reply you guys are great michael k moore

Re(4): gm engines

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 11:11:14 AM by Super 55

I was talking to Scott Franklin at a pull one day, he has several GM Olivers. He pointed out to me an interesting point about those engines. They are symetrical. If you wanted to have the manifolds on the other side you just reversed the block. That way in applications such as boats you could twin them side by side.

Re(5): gm engines

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 12:03:26 PM by Julmer

They can be configured to have blowers and manifolds reversed, swap ends, and with right oil pan and pickup run on their side or vertically. They are set up to run backwards in a lot of the bus applications they were used in. Their basic 2-stroke design was pioneered in the 30's and incorporated into lots of diesel-electric locomotives as well as gen-sets used for marine power applications. 2-53's ran the reefer units on refrigerated box cars (as opposed to the iced down insulated box cars) and 16-92's ran stationary power plants in smaller cities power stations. EPA emmision regulations mandated the eventual demise of the two-stroke manfacturing era but Detroit Diesel came out with the 60 Series four-strokes utilizing computer technological controls to give greater horse power, better fuel economy and cleaner emissions in the over the road trucks just as the Electro-Motive Division of GM has gone to new technology in developing the Tier II Emission compliant locomotives now going online in the rail industry. Can you imagine the size of the tires, toolbars and frame it would take to harness 500 hp in the field?!?!?

77-s77 hydralic repower

IP: 206.197.182.83 Posted on October 21, 2004 at 04:37:58 PM by Steven

First - thanks for a wonderful web site. I have a 77 & S77 that for the past 30 years can't lift certain implements. 6 row planters come to mind. Used to just put a 4" hydralic ram on the planter. Now, I have a planter that has a master/slave cylinder set-up. I can lift it, but it takes a l-o-n-g time. The original specs are about 8GPM @ 1000psi. I believe the relief valves are set at 1750psi. What can be done to increase the pump output? Is it common to rebuild these pumps? Otherwise, I was looking at adding an auxilliary pump/resivor/valve - pto or ??? Thanks, Steve

Re(1): 77-s77 hydralic repower

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 07:11:35 AM by Larry Harsin

The pumps on those tractors are not designed for newer machinery. The newer machinery, the rule of thumb is, 2000 lbs. of pressure minimum. Your tractor is a 1000 lbs psi unit. You can mount on a PTO driven pump on it that will do what you are wanting to do, provided that it has 2000 lbs. psi. Larry

1655 hydralics

IP: 66.163.147.32 Posted on October 20, 2004 at 11:07:40 PM by karl

I brought home my Dad's wagon that has a westendorf running gear with a hydralic lift. It has a one way cylinder. Now the question - can I just hook it up to the 1655 and it will raise and lower or do I need to make a special adjustment for a one way cylinder. Question # 2 The tractor has an easy on loader with two way cylinders and I notice the hydralic controls won't move the loader when the trator is not running. Is this normal? Thanks karl

Re(1): 1655 hydralics

IP: 66.82.9.82 Posted on October 21, 2004 at 03:51:35 PM by Phil

There is an adjustment for single acting cylinders. Refer to the operators manual. However the tractor will work with single acting cylinders without this adjustment. Just hook up the hose to the one coupler and the pump will go over relief valve during lowering. This is O.K. for short periods of time. There is another restrictor valve ajdustment you may want to do if the box "bounces" during lowering. Again refer to the operators manual For your second question, yes, this is normal. There are internal pilot operated check valves that need power from the tractor hydraulics to open up and let flow out of the valve. While they hold loads very well, they are more difficult to meter or feather the loader during operation. If the tractor will be used for a lot of loader work, I suggest adding a two spool open center valve set up for loader work. This can be plumbed into the existing hydraulic system, so the remote hydraulics remain available for general purpose use.

Re(1): 1655 hydralics

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 07:04:13 AM by Larry Harsin

It should work. If it won't work on one outlet, hook it to another one. You may want to consult your Operator's Manual. Also, for one way operation on a 1655, you have to back out a valve under the seat on the right side. You'll need to open the valve that is by your right heel and give it 3 turns for one way operation. You must read your manual. Q 2. Yes, that is normal. If you need a manual, you can get one from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

carb

IP: 152.163.100.10 Posted on October 20, 2004 at 06:45:33 PM by 1850

Larry I have an 1850 gas I just got it too run but it won't run unless the choke is 1/4-1/2 closed.Is their somthing I can look for that is causing this. thanks Andy.

Re(1): carb

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 23, 2004 at 06:55:30 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 load jets for that carb. One has the adjusting needle that comes in from the side. The other is opposite. Make sure these are open. Also, while you are at it, check to see that the larger jet goes with the adjusting needle, as many of these carbs were assembled wrong at the factory. Larry

50's Self-propelled combine

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on October 19, 2004 at 09:08:42 PM by julmer

I was looking for an auger to make a post-hole digger and thought I was going to an old 55 John Deere self propelled at an old scrap yard. It said "Oliver" faded on the green. The operators platform was on the left side with the engine (6 Cyl gas behind the left front wheel and the transmission in front of the left front wheel.) Where should i look for a mfg. tag with model number? It had a cab, platform header, and two row corn header lying around it. It has been damaged at rear and cab cut off with operators platform, but is intact otherwise. I'll bet the components are good as it has one wheathered full tread tire and one new looking 14.6 x26. Replies:

Re(1): 50's Self-propelled combine

IP: 67.2.242.5 Posted on October 20, 2004 at 06:51:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I would guess it would be an Oliver 33 Self-Propelled. It had a Continental flathead 6 cyl. engine. They were built from 1950 - 1954. Then they came out with a 35, which was built from 1954 - 1959. It would be one of these 2 models, I think. The serial number of the 33 begins with 300302. The 35 begins with 350001. The book doesn't say where the tag is. Larry

770 Hydralics Power Beyond Port

IP: 63.189.81.69 Posted on October 18, 2004 at 06:33:30 PM by Allan Wilson

I have a 1965 770 and am trying to hook up a external control valve. Where is the Power Beyond Port.

Re(1): 770 Hydralics Power Beyond Port

IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on October 18, 2004 at 10:56:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It's on the left front corner, pointng out. It's a 1/2" pipe plug with a socket head. This is just ahead of the outlets for the left control valve. The return port where the oil goes back into the unit is a 3/8" plug on the front of the unit, just ahead of the oil filter. Larry

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