"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - April, 2008 Archives
550 oliver and cub tractor
IP: 71.51.229.189 Posted on April 30, 2008 at 07:44:25 AM by Al Boone
can you tell me what year this tractor is and any other helpful info like maybe what it is worth, etc.The #'s on the plate are 55-2103 serial# 149 234 019,one owner good condition it has 4097 hrs. My neighbor's husband passed and she would like for me to have it.what is a fair price to give her. She also wants me to have their international cub it's # is 234776J in good shape.These tractors were only used on his 24 acres to keep land bushhog and gardening with cub.they are both tractors that he purchased new. I intend on using them for same.
Re(1): 550 oliver and cub tractor
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 30, 2008 at 09:37:14 AM by Larry Harsin
The 550 was built in 1964. The Cub was built in 1969. I'd say if the Oliver is in good operating condition, it is worth approx. $3000-$3500. If it has power steering, it would be worth approx. $4500. A fair price for the Cub could be approx. $2000-$3000, depending on condition of tires, tin etc etc etc. Larry
oliver 88 gas
IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on April 29, 2008 at 09:00:45 PM by jerry
larry i wanted to drain the tranny fluid for springtime change for the first time in probably ten years, a quart drained out then nothing, stuck my finger up inside the drain and it felt like thin grease, question is how to flush tranny for no damage and how much fluid is needed to fill.
Re(1): oliver 88 gas
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 29, 2008 at 11:14:03 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like you drained only the front compartment on the transmission. There is another drain plug under the bull gears. That is where most of the oil is. You can flush it by pouring in about 4 gal. of diesel fuel, then drive it for a couple or 3 minutes. Then, drain both compartments of diesel fuel and fill them with sae 90. It will take almost 5 gal. Larry
1850 steering
IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on April 29, 2008 at 12:24:34 PM by jeremy
My question is with the steering cylinder up front on my 1850 oliver. I have been working to tighten up the loose steering, but can't quite get all the slop out. The big plug on the end of the cylinder moves in and out about an 1/8 of an inch or more when you move the tires. Is it just a snap ring that holds it all in place? I am asking this because a lot of slop is coming from that plug going in and out. Am I due to rebuild this? Thanks for any help.
Re(1): 1850 steering
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 29, 2008 at 11:09:58 PM by Larry Harsin
If that plug is not leaking, I wouldn't bother it. If you have too much play up there, the sector may be loose on the steering column shaft. You may have to remove that cap on the steering cylinder, and make sure the bolt that holds that sector on the steering column is tight. There are no adjustments otherwise. While you are working on it, make sure the bolts are tight on the link that anchors the cylinder to the tractor frame. Larry
Oliver backhoe
IP: 205.166.61.142 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 06:17:02 PM by Kirby
Is there a list somewhere of all the backhoes Oliver ever built. Thanks,Kirby
Re(1): Oliver backhoe
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 10:37:57 PM by Larry Harsin
Not that I am aware of. Backhoes were built on various tractors and they are blended in with the same tractors without backhoes. Larry
1650 hydraulics
IP: 207.63.88.252 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 05:45:24 PM by PAUL VAN BUREN
Had this tractor since new in 1967.The left hand hydraulic lever will not stay in the detente position. You have to hold it forword or backward.Moved harness to right side and the lever stays. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Re(1): 1650 hydraulics
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 10:35:58 PM by Larry Harsin
It could have a bad wire on the inside, or a bad solenoid. Larry
1650(2) hydraulics
IP: 144.160.5.25 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 05:03:29 PM by paul van buren
Is that solenoid the little black switch inside under th seat assembly? Last winter I took the seat assembly off and replaced a little black switch.Switch and wires inside lever are OK.
Re(3): 1650 hydraulics
IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:40:15 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That is the solenoid you use when you have the hydra-lectric cords hooked up to hydra-lectric cylinders. This has no purpose unless you have hydra-lectric cylinders and have them operative. Larry
Super 77 Gas
IP: 76.211.4.156 Posted on April 27, 2008 at 08:40:19 PM by Terry Allen
Can you advise where to get the adapter that goes between the exhaust manifold and the muffler? It lookes like a short threaded pipe and appears to be shown on page 3-18 of the parts manual, as item 53. If not, can you advise description- OD, thread count, etc?
Re(1): Super 77 Gas
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 05:48:00 AM by Larry Harsin
It is a regular standard pipe fitting that you can get from you hardware store. It is a 2" Inside Diameter pipe. Larry
Re(2): Super 77 Gas
IP: 76.211.17.37 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 08:47:51 AM by Terry Allen
Based on your recommendation got one from Ag Parts First; however it needs to be cut to length. The one on my tractor extends 8.25" above the manifold with a thin sleeve, 1" wide at the top. The new pipe does not have the sleeve; is it necessary? Is the 8.25" length above the manifold correct? The top of the pipe is slightly below the opening in the hood.
Re(3): Super 77 Gas
IP: 75.104.188.115 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 10:08:47 PM by Larry Harsin
It doesn't need that sleeve. I believe I would like to have the pipe an inch longer than the 8.25". I think I would like it to come out through that opening in the hood. Larry
Super 88 Wide Front End
IP: 67.173.144.62 Posted on April 27, 2008 at 03:39:20 PM by Andy Arndt
Hi Larry,you have a great web sight.My father has a super 88 with a narrow front end & would like to convert it to a wide front end.What model tractors have a front end that would interchange.Thanks
Re(1): Super 88 Wide Front End
IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on April 28, 2008 at 05:44:56 AM by Larry Harsin
The 77 through the 880's wide fronts will all interchange. Larry
Tractors with Creeper Gears
IP: 98.20.142.148 Posted on April 25, 2008 at 03:29:31 PM by Sherrill Mote
I've been interested in Oliver tractors with creeper gears for slow pto work. I haven't found much about the subject except that they have reverse-o- something written on the side by the shift? A 1650 or so would be a nice size propane or diesel. Thanks
Re(1): Tractors with Creeper Gears
IP: 75.104.169.182 Posted on April 25, 2008 at 07:04:21 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 1650's had the hydra-power drive. When you shift into the low side of that, you'll get pretty slow. I have a 1655 that would be a bit slower than the 1650. Either tractor would get you slowed down pretty good. There were some special creeper auxiliary transmissions that were very slow, they barely moved. We had a S77 with a power booster creeper. This tractor came from California, where it was used in digging vegetables etc. You can call me if you wish. 712-362-2966. Larry
1800 B Hydraulic remotes and 3 three point hitch
IP: 24.33.252.130 Posted on April 23, 2008 at 08:15:13 PM by Rex
Larry, I have a 1800 series B that still has me confused. I bought it with the external three point hitch parts missing several years back. I wrote in looking for help getting it to work. I thought we had a fix, but I have a new problem. Some background info. On my tractor, someone has installed a tube/line between the plug located on the operators platform behind the right foot going into the port on the right front side of the hydro-electric switch pack. I have found out that this tube/line is adding to, or the cause of my problem. With this removed, my three point works normally. New problem. With the line remove my remotes don't work. (I was able to drop the implement but not lift again) Put line back in and the remotes work again, but then no three point hitch. My recently aquired operators manual shows a "bypass valve" kit that could've been installed in this location if an individual was having problems hooking up single acting cylinders. I'm currently using a double acting cylinder, and with this mystery line in place my lift cylinder works fine. Even with this line installed (doing the same function as a wide open bypass valve would)I can have difficulty coupling the remote on the "restricted" port, but not always. I would just like to get both functions working. Do I need the "bypass valve" or is there something I should adjust on either side of the switch pack? I have a p/n for the "bypass valve", (107194A) but have been told it is discontinued.
Re(1): 1800 B Hydraulic remotes and 3 three point hitch
IP: 75.104.169.182 Posted on April 24, 2008 at 06:16:42 AM by Larry Harsin
If you can't get part number 107194A, just a gate valve installed in it's place, would do the same thing. What you are describing is just the opposite of normal. That by-pass valve was put on those tractors to help your single acting cylinder would work as the manual describes. Check the break-away couplings to make sure they are working properly. I have seen times when one will be defective and cause the remote circuit to not work. If you try some more things and you still havn't solved the problem, call me tonight. 712-362-2966. Larry
Oliver S55 HG Misses with no Load
IP: 74.5.150.254 Posted on April 21, 2008 at 08:10:03 PM by Rod
I have an Oliver Super 55 HG that misses and backfires when there is no load on the engine, but runs fine as soon as I put the smallest load on it. For instance, I can run the engine at 800-1200 RPM and get a miss and backfire if sitting in neutral or running on flat ground. As soon as I drive up a hill, or engage the mower deck, or start pushing snow with a blade, the miss/backfiring stops. Also, when I adjust the choke, I can get it to stop missing for maybe 20 seconds but it always creeps back in. I rebuilt the carb a year ago. Of course, maybe I did a lousy job with that. When I try to adjust the carb, does it matter how warm it is outside? Or does it only matter how warm the engine is?
Re(1): Oliver S55 HG Misses with no Load
IP: 75.104.182.125 Posted on April 22, 2008 at 05:46:01 AM by Larry Harsin
That is a hard problem to figure out. The first thing I would check is the valve adjustment on the engine valves. Make sure there are no intake valves hanging up or no broken valve springs. Also, make sure the intake manifold gaskets are sealed properly against the head. You might want to check ignition timing. Check all of these things out before you go back in and re-examine the carb. Larry
Type of fluids
IP: 24.245.55.1 Posted on April 21, 2008 at 09:31:29 AM by Mike
what type of lube should go in the transmission and diff.of my Oliver 1850D; also;the service manual calls for 10w oil in the hydraulic system is AW32 hydraulic fluid O.K. to use???
Re(1): Type of fluids
IP: 75.104.182.125 Posted on April 21, 2008 at 06:27:21 PM by Larry Harsin
In the 1850 D, use 80-90 transmission lube. If AW32 specifications meet the ones on the 10w oil, it will be o.k. I don't know what AW32 is, look on the side of the can. Larry
Oliver weights
IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on April 18, 2008 at 01:26:08 PM by Don
Larry what color are the front weights for a 50 or 55 series suppose to be? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver weights
IP: 75.104.191.106 Posted on April 19, 2008 at 05:31:41 AM by Larry Harsin
They are white. Larry
1600 Overhaul kit
IP: 74.65.34.118 Posted on April 16, 2008 at 05:16:26 AM by Larry
Larry - I recently purchased a complete engine overhaul kit for my Oliver 1600 gas engine. The new cylinder sleeves have a smooth top, while the old ones in the engine have a lip or what the kit dealer tells me is a fire dam. Any idea which one is correct?
Re(1): 1600 Overhaul kit
IP: 75.104.182.40 Posted on April 16, 2008 at 05:48:53 AM by Larry Harsin
I have seen them both ways and I imagine either one is correct. Most of the original production sleeves were smooth, but some of the newer replacements have the fire dam. When you install the head gasket, make sure that the gasket fits around that fire dam instead of being "upon" it. This is something to watch for. Larry
77 oliver
IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on April 13, 2008 at 08:47:34 PM by jack
we have a 51 model 77 that we have put a 1550 head on. what is the biggest oliver carb that will bolt up to the 1550 intake
Re(1): 77 oliver
IP: 75.105.50.7 Posted on April 14, 2008 at 06:09:57 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it would be a carb for an 88, a TSX374. That is what I would use. Larry
1855 Engine timing
IP: 71.161.223.36 Posted on April 13, 2008 at 02:11:23 PM by Shawn M Juaire
Reworked the engine in an 1855 last summer and am ready to bleed the fuel system to get it fired up. I want to make sure I have the engine timed properly. The timing marks in the front gears are lined up, the flywheel is put on with the pointer at zero and the injector pump installed with the marks aligned. Just want to make sure this is correct before I get myself in any trouble. I've run into situations before with Chilton manuals and igntion timing. I've read hear somwhere that some of these diesels will run 180 degrees out of time. I wanted to pose this to people that have more experience than I. THANK YOU !!!
Re(1): 1855 Engine timing
IP: 75.105.50.7 Posted on April 13, 2008 at 07:20:48 PM by Larry Harsin
You are correct in what you say. Larry
Hydra Power Drive
IP: 207.255.69.21 Posted on April 12, 2008 at 02:22:27 PM by RJ
I recently came across a Hydra Power unit that was stated to fit 1655 and 1755's. Is there a way to be certain what it fits and if it is for a 1655 or 1755 could it be fitted to a 1950T?
Re(1): Hydra Power Drive
IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on April 12, 2008 at 08:48:55 PM by Larry Harsin
The hydra power for a 1755 would have the same size input shaft and bell housing as a 1950T. The 1655 bell housing and input shaft is smaller. Larry
1650 Oil Filter
IP: 69.92.97.142 Posted on April 10, 2008 at 12:30:05 PM by Dave
Larry: I have a late model (1969) Oliver 1650 Diesel with the old sock element style oil filter assembly. I want to convert it to a spin-on style. I have a new filter assembly (base) part #169419AS. Will this work on my 1650D and do I need to order a gasket? Thanks!
Re(1): 1650 Oil Filter
IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on April 11, 2008 at 10:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin
Call John at 419-624-4251 or 419-626-1269. He can tell you all about it. He has an ad in the Oliver Heritage magazine. Larry
880 hydraulic pump
IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on April 9, 2008 at 09:11:15 PM by Tyler Stigge
I have a 59 880. The hydraulics do not want to pick up a round bale more than 2/3 of the way using the lifting arms. The arms will go up with lighter loads. I do not have the extra oil reservoir installed. The 3 point is a custom with 2 cylinders. I suspect that the pump needs rebuilt, and I have the engine out of the tractor now for clutch replacement. How can I test the pump to determine if it requires a rebuild?
Re(1): 880 hydraulic pump
IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on April 10, 2008 at 06:48:30 AM by Larry Harsin
This isn't the time to work on that hydraulic. Test the operating pressure of the hydraulic unit when the tractor is running. You'll have to put the engine back in the tractor and have it running. I'd like to see 1200 psi at normal operating temp. There are relief shims to help you get here. Part number of the shim is K2079. When you get to this point, give me a call and I'll help you further. Larry
1650
IP: 216.114.220.137 Posted on April 8, 2008 at 08:44:24 PM by Lyle
Larry, I have a 1650 gas that i put a new carb kit in last winter but in cooler weather the darn thing keeps getting condensation on it and in colder weather it almost frosts over causing it to run like crap any ideas ? thanks Lyle
Re(1): 1650
IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on April 8, 2008 at 09:30:48 PM by Larry Harsin
Sometimes they do that and I don't really know what the solution is. Be sure the thermostat is keeping it up to temp. Larry
770 Hydraulic Pump
IP: 4.226.231.20 Posted on April 6, 2008 at 09:05:13 PM by Tim Kramolis
I have a 770 Oliver Tractor that as soon as you crank the tractor the hydraulic unit gets so hot that you can barely even touch it. I have had the pump rebuilt and have tried some other fixes but have had no luck. What do you think is my problem?
Re(1): 770 Hydraulic Pump
IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on April 8, 2008 at 05:30:16 AM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like it has probably been a unit that had a power beyond on it and someone has plugged it off. The first thing I'd check is to remove the 1/2" pipe plug on the left front corner and see if there is a 3/8" pipe plug screwed inside. It will be a socket head pipe plug. This should be removed if there is one there. If there isn't one, then check your control valves. There may be a problem in one of those. Larry
1600 hydra powr.leak
IP: 76.204.89.90 Posted on April 6, 2008 at 06:26:45 PM by Brad G.
I have a 1600 that leaks fluid out of the 2 speed.There is a plug behind the filter on the hydra power,or to the left as you look at the filter side. it is about an inch in diameter with an allen set screw in the middle. it seeps around this plug.I am selling this tractor to a neighbor and would like to have it fixed right.I read that there was a field retrofit kit to eliminate this leak problem.Do you know what this is or was. or is it a big deal to fix the o-rings that are leaking.I haven't had one of these apart before so I'm kind of looking for an easy fix hopefully. thanks for any help. Brad in WI
Re(1): 1600 hydra powr.leak
IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on April 8, 2008 at 05:26:44 AM by Larry Harsin
There is not an easy fix. The upgrade is expensive. I would recommend that you remove the engine with the hydra power from the tractor and then remove the cover from the hydra power unit and replace the O rings. I would also replace the O ring on the selector spool, while I had it apart. Larry
Oliver 1650 and 550
IP: 207.58.218.42 Posted on April 2, 2008 at 07:43:11 AM by Rick
Would the ring gear and bevel pinion from an Oliver 1650 fit in an Oliver
Re(1): Oliver 1650 and 550
IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on April 2, 2008 at 09:21:02 PM by Larry Harsin
No, it wouldn't. Larry