880 Power Steering

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on April 30, 2012 at 09:49:21 PM by Dave

Larry, I am hoping you can help me out. I have an 880 Row Crop Wide Front with Power Steering, spec # 38-0039, serial # 62 880-822 (not sure which year this tractor was built). There seems to be a fluid leak around the pitman shaft where it comes out of the bottom of the steering unit under the radiator. My question is what type of power steering system do I have? My shop manual and parts book show power steering units which have a mechanical steering wheel connection my 880 does not. The power steering pump appears to be one off of a 1600. Everything on the tractor looks original factory installed to me. There is no mechanical connection (only hydralic lines) between the steering wheel and the unit under the radiatior. Where can I find a shop manual and parts manual for this power steering system? Is it possible that this tractor has a complete power steering system same as a 1600? Should I be looking at a 1600 shop manual? Hope you can help me out. Thanks

Re(1): 880 Power Steering

IP: 75.105.51.96 Posted on May 1, 2012 at 09:25:16 AM by Larry Harsin

What you have was put in as a "Field Conversion Package". The parts for the hydra-motor and the steering cylinder are the same as the 50 series Olivers had. That Field Conversion Package should be in your Oliver 880 parts book. Larry

Re(2): 880 Power Steering

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on May 2, 2012 at 09:34:24 PM by Dave

Larry, Should I be rounding up a shop manual for a 1650 before I go to work on the power steering unit? I'm not finding any reference in the 880 parts manual that I have either. It doesn't seem to leak when working the tractor but when it sits for a couple of weeks it looses almost a quart running out the bottom and then dripping off the tie rods. I am wondering if I can get at replacing the bottom seal from the bottom without having to dismantle the whole front end? Thanks

Re(3): 880 Power Steering

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 3, 2012 at 07:30:37 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a quad-ring in that steering cylinder. It needs to be replaced. The radiator has to be removed from the tractor before you can do this. Then, you have to remove the steering cylinder and take the sector out of that. Replace the seal and put it back. It might be helpful to get a Shop Manual, but that is what you have to do. Larry

Hydraulic Cylinder

IP: 174.253.20.42 Posted on April 30, 2012 at 07:45:41 PM by Wes Pottschmidt

I have a leaky Oliver hydraulic cylinder that came with a non Oliver chopper. It is welded together on one end and after taking the cover off the other end, I cannot figure out how to get it apart so I can fix it. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Re(1): Hydraulic Cylinder

IP: 75.105.51.96 Posted on May 1, 2012 at 09:21:12 AM by Larry Harsin Most of those have a snap ring in the end of the barrel. You have to remove that snap ring and then you can get it apart. Larry

550 carb

IP: 99.21.222.61 Posted on April 29, 2012 at 05:07:33 PM by Gengler

Larry, I need a carb. for my 550. It has a m/s tsx-811. They have zenith carb to replace it, but it says reverse hookup. what is reverve hookup? Do i need extra parts? thank you.

Re(1): 550 carb

IP: 75.105.51.96 Posted on April 30, 2012 at 06:54:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Valu-Bilt may have a rebuilt Marvel carb for it 888-828-3276. I don't know what they mean by "reverse hookup" either. Larry

Re(1): 550 carb

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on April 30, 2012 at 03:06:46 PM by Karl

I have put several Zenith carburetors on Super 55s--these replacement carburetors are designed so you can reverse the choke and throttle controls depending on the location of the throttle, governor and choke cable controls. My guess is that is what the "reverse hookup" reference is. I've had good results with the Zeniths on the Super 55s that I have owned.

62T baler

IP: 173.86.22.133 Posted on April 29, 2012 at 07:52:34 AM by sam howell

Hello Mr Harsin, i have an old baler that i bought at an auction and it works really good for being 60 years old. my question is what were the common flaws in this machine and what are the parts that usually go first? its a 62t.Thanks for your knowledge and help!

Re(1): 62T baler

IP: 75.105.51.96 Posted on April 30, 2012 at 06:52:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any flaws in that machine. They were pretty much "bullet proof". Larry

1600

IP: 70.41.40.251 Posted on April 28, 2012 at 01:47:06 PM by Hickox

Should clover white paint be used to paint the wheels on my 1963 1600?

Re(1): 1600

IP: 75.104.182.26 Posted on April 28, 2012 at 10:16:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I get it from AGCO. Larry

oliver 1850

IP: 71.210.121.185 Posted on April 25, 2012 at 02:34:00 PM by Dave Arnold

Larry, my 1850 has an issue which i thought was the clutch out as it wont move....but when i put the brake on it begins to move!?? Could it be a pin in the rear end connecting one of the axles?

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 67.142.181.25 Posted on April 25, 2012 at 05:18:17 PM by larry from md.

No they are all splines.Check the outside first see if the axel is spinning in the hub on the side you are brakeing.Allso look to see if the axel bearings have let the axel and gears fall away so they don't drive inside.There is likely metal parts loose inside that can jam in gears and cause more damage,so do as little moveing as possible.

Re(2): oliver 1850

IP: 75.104.182.26 Posted on April 28, 2012 at 10:15:08 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have something broken in the differential. Larry

880 injector pump

IP: 216.51.166.80 Posted on April 23, 2012 at 08:51:26 PM by Arvin DeBoef

The bosch injector pump on my 880 needs the oil seal on the governor shaft replaced. My service manual says to remove the governor housing and drive the shaft out. Is it possible to pull the seal and replace it without taking the pump apart? Thanks. Arvin

Re(1): 880 injector pump

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on April 24, 2012 at 07:11:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That can be done on the tractor. You'll have to remove the little cover on the side of the injection head, to disconnect the linkage. Then, remove the oil line that feeds the oil from the pump to the engine. Remove the bolts that hold the governor housing on the pump and you can service it. Larry

oliver 1750 steering leak

IP: 209.159.232.239 Posted on April 22, 2012 at 06:59:26 PM by jack

after farming all day I noticed the steering motor was leaking oil out the top left side. There is a pin hole in the casting. Is it a breather?

Re(1): oliver 1750 steering leak

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on April 22, 2012 at 10:07:53 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That pin hole is used in disassembly. There is probably an O ring that is bad on that pot (casting). It will have to be removed from the tractor and be resealed. You should have this done at your AGCO Dealer instead of doing it yourself. Larry

77 PTO

IP: 216.81.94.75 Posted on April 21, 2012 at 10:37:17 PM by Rick Caldwell

I am need of a little bit of help. My father gave me a 1951 Oliver 77 rox crop. Everything appears to work fine on the tractor other than the PTO. The pto stays engaged no matter position the lever is in. I can feel the lever actuating the clutch pack however. My father told me that he had it apart a year ago and it has not worked since. He said it worked fine before then. He also can't find his shop manual. I am in the processing of either trying to find the manual or purchase a new one. I was just wondering if he may have put the clutch pack together wrong and this is why it is not working right. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 77 PTO

IP: 67.142.181.21 Posted on April 22, 2012 at 04:50:46 PM by larry from md.

Most likely your father messed up the shims that ajust the clutch.Its easy to do.All three of the shims should be the same size,its very easy to get one pack of shims too small.Remove the cove and measure the distance between the outer pieces where the shims are.

Re(2): 77 PTO

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on April 22, 2012 at 10:05:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say there is a good chance that your father messed it up. You can get another Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

oliver 1950

IP: 184.151.61.104 Posted on April 19, 2012 at 10:12:51 PM by Ken

I have a industrial 1950 also known as the 4-115 mighty tow i am having problems with the transfer drive building up to much oil or pressure or both and leaking all over the place, i have not had the tractor real long, have used it on the road and had noticed it was leaking a bit but now that i have hooked it to the cultivator, and used 4wd it leaks like a sive, i tried sealing the vent, restricting the oil flow, but it just finds new places to get out, it seemes like there is a blockage between that housing to the main housing, can the transfer housing be removed without moving the creeper trans?

Re(1): oliver 1950

IP: 75.104.161.92 Posted on April 20, 2012 at 05:05:41 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The transfer housing cannot be removed without removing the creeper. Possibly, you could split the tractor to access the transfer case. But, I have another thought... I think what is happening is oil from the transmission is getting into the transfer case and getting trapped there. You could possibly run an external line from the level plug and return that oil to the transmission. I don't know just where there will be a hole to put it. It can be just a small line, it may have to run back to the main frame and put it back there on that back cover. I think you'd have to watch that it doesn't run too low on oil after you do this. Possibly, put a little gate valve on the line to let it go once in awhile and then shut it again. The problem is a leaking seal in the transmission - a very hard thing to fix. You should get an Operator's Manual from the museum in Charles City and it will explain how to repair this, if you decide to do it. 641-228-1099. You should get the manual anyway. Larry

550 front spindles

IP: 75.129.128.182 Posted on April 18, 2012 at 08:47:54 PM by Jeff Kastello

Hi Larry, I have a 1964 550 and the king pins on the front spindles are worn about .030 undersize. I work in a machine shop so I can cut the weld out of the knuckle and press them out.I was told you can get just the pin to press in and reweld but I have not been able to locate them. Part number is 106461AA. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re(1): 550 front spindles

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 19, 2012 at 07:15:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I am not aware that you can get "Parts". I thought all that was available was the complete knuckle. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

hydraulic pump

IP: 67.3.156.31 Posted on April 17, 2012 at 07:40:07 PM by John Schoenauer

Larry I purchased a used hydraulic pump for my 880. The pump was removed from my tractor by a previous owner. I bought a pump off E-Bay and was wondering if there is a way to check the pump before I install it. I will also have to replace the aluminum plate that the pump bolts to but I found a used one at a dealer that closed. Any suggestions on checking the Hydraulic system before I install it in the tractor

Re(1): hydraulic pump

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 19, 2012 at 07:13:03 AM by Larry Harsin

All I would say is put it together and try it. Larry

880

IP: 66.244.71.106 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 09:06:18 PM by michael keith moore

is it possible to put the 283 engine in an 880? also can a cummins be put in the 880?

Re(1): 880

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 16, 2012 at 07:25:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The 283 will go in an 880, but I don't know about a Cummins whether it will or not. Larry

1850 pto

IP: 166.250.112.2 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 10:39:15 AM by Gordon Bubke

Is it possible to have a 1000 rpm pto on my 1850 and if so what needs to be done?

Re(1): 1850 pto

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:44:11 PM by Larry Harsin

On the 1850's, they have the option of a single speed or a dual speed. Most of the single speeds were 540 only. The dual speeds had the shifter down at the bottom of the housing so that you could shift it between 540 and 1000. If you have a single speed PTO, you should get a package from your AGCO dealer to install the dual speed. I would have them do it. It isn't a job for a first timer. Larry

Super 55

IP: 216.81.94.73 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 01:47:10 AM by Joe

Hi Larry thanks in advance for all that you do for all the Oliver owners out here. I have a S55 and have decided to keep it and restore it slowly. Recently I have noticed that when I am running the tractor and I put the tractor in neutral, it starts creeping forward. I have also noticed oil dripping out of the obsevation plate under the tractor. When I took off the plate a considerable amount of oil came out which looked like it had been building up for some time. To further matters, the PTO lever on the side of the transmission doesnt stop the shaft from spinning. I know that I am going to have to split this tractor, but what are the common problems associated with this? Rear main seal? Front seal? Any help is appreciated.Sorry to be so long winded, new to tractors.

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:41:16 PM by Larry Harsin

This is common on these older Super 55 tractors. It will need to be split and taken apart and new seals and O rings installed. If the PTO clutch plates are bad, this is the time to replace them since you will have it apart. Larry

Perkins water pump

IP: 67.236.145.9 Posted on April 13, 2012 at 09:40:32 PM by jim

Have water pump on 354 perkins with bearing is loose. so i put new pump on and now when cold ,leaks out the weep hole . but when warm ok.shoud i put another pump on or run this pump and see if it seals.

Re(1): Perkins water pump

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:38:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd run it for 20 hrs. or so and give the seal a chance to seal. However, first, I would call the person I bought the pump from and get his opinion. They might tell you to take it off and send it back. After talking to them, then you decide. Larry

1755 pto option

IP: 98.16.181.92 Posted on April 13, 2012 at 09:00:09 PM by Alex

Hi Larry, I plan to purchase a new holland 1431 discbine soon. Most of those run on a 1000 pto. My 1755 is a 540 pto. Can that be switched to a 1000. If it can, do you think my 1755 can handle pulling the discbine?

Re(1): 1755 pto option

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:35:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Most of the 55 series tractors have a dual speed PTO. You need an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. It will explain how to install the shaft and how to shift the gears in the PTO. Your 1755 should work fine on a

Super 55 Hydraulic - replacing with the passage cover?

IP: 76.6.231.128 Posted on April 12, 2012 at 08:57:33 PM by Rod

I have a Super 55 with the external hydraulics, and they are leaking. I would like to pull them off and rebuild them over the summer and was wondering if I just needed to get the hyrdraulics passage cover (with the necessary seal) or if I needed to get more than that (other than standard bolts, washers and possibly pipe fittings)?

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulic - replacing with the passage cover?

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:32:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX, 903-729-8349 He should have what you need. Larry

Oliver 60 manifold

IP: 155.178.5.19 Posted on April 12, 2012 at 06:40:51 AM by Mac

I have a 1945 Oliver 60 that I'm replacing the manifold on due to the old one being bad. When I bolted the new (used) one on it seemed fine except the number 3 exhaust port doesnt' seal around the gasket. In other words, the gasket is loose. I got all new gaskets from Korves by the way. My question is, can I have the manifold resurfaced to square it up? If so, who can do this? I'm thinking maybe Arnold Motor or someone like that? Any help you can give is appreciated! Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Oliver 60 manifold

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:30:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Take it to a machine shop and get it resurfaced so the ports will be the same. Larry

1550D

IP: 98.30.87.162 Posted on April 10, 2012 at 05:53:30 PM by Ryan

Just bought a 1550D oil pressure is 15# when working it and 0-5# at idle. 20# when cold. Someone told me this is normal on 1550D is this true? Pulled pan and rod bearings were marked 07 .10 under. And It looked to have the head off recently but have no idea if it was resleeved and jugged. Just seems kinda low. What do you think and would a new oil pump help? Thanks and have a great day

Re(1): 1550D

IP: 67.142.181.20 Posted on April 10, 2012 at 06:55:01 PM by Larry from MD

The 1550 uses the old style oiling system,so the 15 and 20 would not be a problem. I like the idle to be alittle higher.Check the filter and see that it has the very small hole in the bottem center.

Re(2): 1550D

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:29:10 PM by Larry Harsin

The engine will live with that kind of pressure. You could stretch the relief spring and get a little more pressure. I don't think you will need to put a different oil pump in it. I think your engine will be o.k. Larry

1600 hydrapower

IP: 216.197.157.47 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 03:22:20 PM by Chad

Hi Larry, I am having a problem with a 1600 diesel hydrapower. It worked fine when tractor was parked some years ago, but now the tractor runs fine, but won't move. I have checked oil levels, they are full and clean. Any ideas where to start looking? Thanks

Re(1): 1600 hydrapower

IP: 67.142.181.22 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 05:07:47 PM by Larry from MD

It could be the clutch center is broke out.This seems to be a common problem with them.

77RC

IP: 209.112.238.146 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 01:38:32 AM by Corky Marshall

What's a substitute for the SAE 140 gear oil for my 77RC. I want to change out the fluid completely. Also, is it possible to install a tach on an RC 77.

Re(1): 77RC

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 07:23:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I just use 90 weight gear oil. You can install a tach, provided that it has the holes in the block like a Super or a 770. They are below the distributor. Larry

Re(2): 77RC

IP: 75.120.181.10 Posted on April 13, 2012 at 08:44:44 AM by Scott

Would a super 77 Diesel also have the capability of adding a tack and if so where would it be installed?

Re(3): 77RC

IP: 75.105.51.117 Posted on April 15, 2012 at 07:55:17 PM by Larry Harsin

A S77 diesel has a little 4 cornered plate on the right side of the block where a tack drive can be installed. I have the tack drives. Give me a call if you need one. 712-362-2966. Larry

1655 engine swap

IP: 70.15.67.38 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 05:50:31 PM by Codie

I have a 1655 in need of an overhaul. I was offered a good running 1750 with transmission problems for less than i can rebuild the 1655 engine. My 1655 has a straight shaft in place of the three speed. I was hoping to put the engine, clutch, and 3 speed from the 1750 in my 1655. I know the engine will but ive been told the rest wont. What would it take to make it work?

Re(1): 1655 engine swap

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:25:55 PM by Larry Harsin

If you would use the backing plate and the flywheel from the 1655 engine, you would be o.k. Then, it will work. If you aren't too far away, I'd be interested in your 1655 engine. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): 1655 engine swap

IP: 70.15.67.38 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 07:54:06 PM by Codie

So I cant use the over/ under from the 1750 in the 1655?

Carb Tuning

IP: 70.20.44.53 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 05:50:16 PM by J P

can you tell me what is the proper way to tune the down draft carb on my Super 55? I can't find any information on it. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Carb Tuning

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:23:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It gives you this info in the Operator's Manual. You should get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City, 641-228-1099, I have never encountered a down draft on a S55. They have an up draft. I have no idea what you have. I suppose anything is possible!! Larry

Re(2): Carb Tuning

IP: 70.20.44.53 Posted on April 9, 2012 at 04:34:10 PM by J P

sorry about the flub, not a down draft but an updraft (senior moment)I will take your advice. Would you know how to come by a flat rate service price book. Thanks

Re(3): Carb Tuning

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 10, 2012 at 06:28:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I&T might have one. Implement and Tractor Publications. I don't know of any. I don't use them. Larry

Water leak

IP: 173.31.75.217 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 02:49:02 PM by Mac

Larry, I've got an 1948 Oliver 70 that I've been working on. I've got it running but today it started to leak water. The radiator appears to be dry but while running it, water is being blown back from the fan air. As near as I can tell, there appears to be some moisture on the back side of the water pump pully. Is the water pump seals going out do you think or what are you're thoughts? Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Water leak

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:21:07 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have a bad water pump. I think Korves Oliver has them 618-939-6681. Larry

Super 88 transmission oil

IP: 174.252.208.196 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 07:23:46 AM by Ben

I have a 1955 oliver super 88 and was wondering how to check the transmission oil level.

Re(1): Super 88 transmission oil

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:19:28 PM by Larry Harsin

The level plug is on the right rear of the transmission housing, about half way up. It is directly behind the axle housing. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It tells you this and many other things about your tractor. You can get one from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

1955

IP: 208.126.90.174 Posted on April 7, 2012 at 12:42:17 PM by Steve

I know of a 1955 within 30 miles of me that a friend of mine wants to sell that is no longer being used as the farm is rented out, What should I look for? It has a full set of weights on it and the tires are near new along with the duals. It has low hours on the the engine overhaul. Is is much different than a 1855? Thank you!

Re(1): 1955

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:09:17 PM by Larry Harsin

It is very much the same as an 1855. If it is as you describe, I would consider buying it. Larry

Engine casting numbers

IP: 67.222.203.19 Posted on April 6, 2012 at 09:09:19 PM by Luke Perrigo

I was wondering where I can a book or find any info for looking up engine casting numbers and tractor serial numbers. I have a few tractors I would like to find info on. Thanks

Re(1): Engine casting numbers

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:14:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The engine casting numbers are really not listed in any book. There are books that have the tractor serial numbers, but none show the correlation between the two. If you call the museum in Charles City and give them the serial numbers of your tractors, for $20 each, they will send you a copy of the Build Card for those tractors. The Build Card is a computer punch card that followed the tractor as it was built and when certain things were put into the tractor, the card was punched. It will even tell you the first dealership that sold the tractor. The phone number for the museum is: 641-228-1099. Larry

pto lever

IP: 166.182.3.169 Posted on April 6, 2012 at 07:38:51 AM by maRK

Larry, had a mishap and the pto engagmnt lever is bent and floppy. I may have lost a spring, is there a diagram of the parts in that area to see if i get it all back together right?

Re(1): pto lever

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:07:50 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a spring and a plunger on the PTO lever. That should be all you need. Larry

1750 waukesha diesel

IP: 96.238.141.71 Posted on April 5, 2012 at 06:38:05 PM by mike

Looking for help cant get it to fire on #1&6 and changed injectors any idea on checking the injection pump ?

Re(1): 1750 waukesha diesel

IP: 75.104.183.145 Posted on April 6, 2012 at 07:22:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the little fitting out of the top of the injection pump, where it hooks onto the return line. Leaving this fitting out, see if the engine will start. That little ball in there may be stuck so that the pump can't vent. Larry

77 RC stalls

IP: 152.160.170.116 Posted on April 4, 2012 at 08:36:15 AM by Jim

I have a 77 that has not been run for over a year. I charged up the battery, drained the fuel, put in fresh fuel and got it running. I had it run for over an hour at idle with no issues. Revved it up and down with no problems. The problem came when I went out on the road. I had it in 6th gear, and was going to full throttle. I didn't get 75 yards from the driveway and the motor just quit. No surging, it just quit. The engine turned over, but it would not fire. Almost like it was starved for fuel. I got it towed back to the house and 10 minutes later it fired up, ran for about 30 seconds to a minute and then stalled. I checked the fuel system from the tank to the carb and found no blockage. I took the carb off , TSX-363, throughly inspected it and didn't find anything blocked. Could it be the battery-which 8 years old? Any ideas?

Re(1): 77 RC stalls

IP: 75.104.183.145 Posted on April 5, 2012 at 07:17:05 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be so many things. It could be electrical, it could be fuel, it could be a dirty set of points. You'll just have to check it out. Larry

Re(2): 77 RC stalls

IP: 152.160.170.116 Posted on April 6, 2012 at 07:11:18 PM by Jim

I put new points and condenser in the distributor yesterday. ran her and the same thing happened-stalled. i checked the points after it stalled and they appeared to be really hot. the metal stationary and moving side of the point looked like they had been blued (I assume do to excessive heat). The actual point was already covered in soot from the arc. I wiped it off and the tractor ran again, but resulted in the same issue-stalling. what should I check next. I assume there is a problem causing the excessive heat. I have the service manuals for the tractor, but not sure what to check next.

Re(3): 77 RC stalls

IP: 152.160.170.116 Posted on April 6, 2012 at 07:49:02 PM by Jim

I just got to thinking. I updated the tractor to a 12volt system several years ago-but I am not sure if the coil has an internal resistor. I know i don't have an external resistor. what should the resistance be 1.5 ohms?

Re(4): 77 RC stalls

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on April 8, 2012 at 09:06:23 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you might be running 12 volts through a 6 volt coil, which would make the points get hot. You need to put a resistor on there. I'm not sure what size of resistor, but it should be ahead of the coil. By now, you may need to get a new set of points, too. Larry

temp

IP: 67.85.220.182 Posted on April 2, 2012 at 10:04:15 PM by chris

larry i didnt notice my temp going up with the aftermarket guages i bought they were from india but were 30 bones and say oliver on them i drained the head to apply new temp guage coolant was brown {think its time for new coolant}! obviousely what should i flush with???? i ran it open header around my yard and i love the way she sounds

Re(1): temp

IP: 75.104.183.145 Posted on April 3, 2012 at 07:51:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Just flush it with fresh clean water. Larry

oil pressure

IP: 67.85.220.182 Posted on April 2, 2012 at 09:56:13 PM by chris

Hey Larry ive just started my 49 77 that you rebuilt the hydro pump on and ive got 0 oil pressure i took the line off at the guage to bleed air out while it was running and it oozed out, while i was painting it i stuck a bolt of the correct thread in the hole whats wrong i also removed the oil filter bracket paint clog? i made sure to not get paint into the oil holes??

Re(1): oil pressure

IP: 75.104.183.145 Posted on April 3, 2012 at 07:50:26 AM by Larry Harsin

If the oil oozed out, you do have pressure. I would suggest installing a gauge in the line, where the oil goes up to the gauge on the engine block. Then, start it up and watch this gauge. It is supposed to have 12 to 18 lbs. That little line that goes up to the gauge is very small, maybe it has been pinched. Also, you could try blowing air through this line. Possibly it is clogged or something. Larry

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