1855 Head Gasket

IP: 98.219.213.176 Posted on April 28, 2013 at 12:39:31 PM by Brent

Hi Larry, About 4 years ago I replaced the head gasket on my 1855 diesel, a few days ago it went out again. I pulled it down and found the metal ring around the cooling port beside #6 cyl ate thru? Is this common? I have a shop manual from Floyd County, are the torque specs for the head still accurate or have they been updated?

Re(1): 1855 Head Gasket

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on April 28, 2013 at 06:29:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Not really common, but it has happened. As far as I know the info is correct. The 4 head bolts on the ends of the head are torqued to 150. The rest of them are torqued to 175. Larry

oliver 880 throttle tightness

IP: 174.253.146.92 Posted on April 26, 2013 at 11:58:56 AM by Anthony

Hello, a while back I noticed the throttle getting tight on my Oliver 880 gas. Well, eventually the linkage under the battery broke. I've replaced that but still need to address the tightness. There is also a limited range of motion. Any ideas on the issue?? Thanks for your advice Larry, without it we would have many lost Oliver owners!

Re(1): oliver 880 throttle tightness

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on April 27, 2013 at 06:08:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Somewhere in that linkage, along side the engine might be binding. Check it out and see what you find. Larry

1550 distributor

IP: 75.168.224.39 Posted on April 25, 2013 at 10:12:51 AM by floyd

The previous owner of my 1550 replaced the distributor with one without the tach drive. Will a distributor and tach drive from a 1750 fit? Thanks.

Re(1): 1550 distributor

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on April 26, 2013 at 06:57:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. Larry.

1850 not running right

IP: 207.177.89.210 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 09:59:12 AM by Jeff Kingland

Hi Larry, My Grandpa died a few years back and my Grandma gave me his 1969 1850 gas. I am having following issues with it. No power under load, missing, backfiring and stalling when under load. I've replaced the plugs, plug wires, points, condenser, I have also checked the firing order and timing and seem to be ok. My next thing was to replace the coil so I got a 12 volt coil from NAPA and when I took the old coil out and crossed the part number on that one it came back as a 6 volt coil. Everything on the tractor looks factory and it is running a 12 volt system so why would there be a 6 volt coil in it? I tried the 12 volt coil and it would hardly run at all. My Grandma said it always ran fine before (it sat for 10 years or so in a shed, she started it at least once a month and would let it run for a while) and sheÕs sure theyÕve never changed the coil. Any ideas? Thanks for your help

Re(1): 1850 not running right

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on April 25, 2013 at 07:36:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The 6 volt coil was what came with the tractor when it was new. It had a resistance wire in the wiring harness so that it was using 6 volts. Your problem is probably in the carb. or the fuel supply to the carb. Larry

Re(2): 1850 not running right

IP: 207.177.89.210 Posted on April 25, 2013 at 08:09:52 AM by Jeff Kingland

I forgot to say, I put a new carb on and changed the fuel filter. Didn't change anything

Re(3): 1850 not running right

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on April 26, 2013 at 06:56:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Then, you better find a professional mechanic to help you. Larry

Low Oil Pressure

IP: 75.170.192.101 Posted on April 23, 2013 at 07:32:45 AM by Mac

Larry, I have a 1947 Oliver 70 gas tractor. I have notice lately that it seems to be running low on oil pressure. After it warms up completely, it only holds around 17-18 PSI at full throttle. At idle, it runs close to 5 or a bit less. It is full of oil so I know that's not the problem. What steps should I take to verify the oil pressure? Also, I had the carb overhauled a year ago and it starts and runs great however, it seems to produce quite a bit of blueish smoke at an idle. Is it burning oil? What are your thoughts on these two issues. Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Low Oil Pressure

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 07:53:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd probably say it is burning some oil. It is probably a tired engine that is causing the low oil pressure. I'd try some heavier oil in it. Larry

Oliver Tandem Disc

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 08:46:20 PM by Dave

Larry, I really enjoy reading your message board. I recently purchased an oliver tandem disc (early 1960's vintage) I'm not sure what model as all of the markings are gone. I'd like to figure out what model it is so I can try to order a manual for it. I'd also like to know what the specs are for a new hydraulic cylinder for it that I may need to purchase. I'm thinking 4" x 8" stroke but what are the overall measurements 20.25" - 28.25". Where can I find the specs for purchasing something that will work? Thanks Dave

Re(1): Oliver Tandem Disc

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on April 23, 2013 at 09:42:58 AM by chris

could be a 252 ive got one and they work great well built

Re(1): Oliver Tandem Disc

IP: 76.208.31.103 Posted on April 23, 2013 at 12:37:40 PM by 90%ret'd

3 1/2 X 8 should give you enough lift capacity. The disc would use a standard ASAE cylinder 8" stroke, your open and closed lengths (pin centers) are correct. If you Google "ASAE hydraulic cylinder" you will find many sources, Tractor supply, Rural King, most any farm and fleet store has standard cyl's in various diameters.

Re(1): Oliver Tandem Disc

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 07:49:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Just a standard 8" stroke hydraulic cylinder will work on that disc. I don't know what model it is without seeing a picture of it. Then, I'm not sure I would be correct. Larry

support bracket for top link

IP: 70.199.99.214 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 09:18:03 AM by Jerry Shannnon

Hello Larry. Thank you for helping me find an original top link for my 1855. On that subject,, I show on the parts page that there is a "support bracket" that attaches to the seat frame somewhere and a couple of s hooks and small chain are used to support the top link assembly. Cannot find that bracket. If I make one, do you know where it bolts to and roughly how big is this bracket? The picture makes it look small but I show 2 holes under the seat frame that might be where the braket bolts to and that area is a wide as the seat? Purely cosmetic but I want it right. Thank you.

Re(1): support bracket for top link

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 07:47:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the parts you are looking for. You will just have to be "creative." Go to a show or somewhere to see one that is restored and do some measuring or a picture etc. That will show you what you want to do. Larry

Energy cells

IP: 24.218.38.27 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 07:39:51 AM by dan

Larry, I am working on an S77 diesel and just had injectors rebuilt. Pulled the energy cell caps, spacer and cell cup. Cleaned and looked for the threads in the body and cant find. THen I looked at the book again. I think the cell body is not there? I can push a 12 ga shotgun brush all the way to the other side of the head. Would someone have pulled all the cell bodys out for some reason? pulled out a 2nd cell cap and its the same thing. ran ok other than occasional miss. started hard though.

Re(1): Energy cells

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 07:45:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It's possible that someone pulled those bodies out! You'll have to find some somewhere. Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Re(2): Energy cells

IP: 98.191.62.36 Posted on April 24, 2013 at 09:51:48 AM by dan

Larry, would there be any reason to pull them out and not re-install? I have never had one of them apart other than this one. From the pic in the book, does the cell body have a narrow orifice, ie I shouldnt be able to push the brush all the way thru?

Re(3): Energy cells

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 8, 2013 at 07:06:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That cell body does have a narrow orifice. Somebody probably neglected to re-install them and it didn't work right. See if you can find them. Larry

Oliver Clover White Spray Paint

IP: 184.20.56.233 Posted on April 21, 2013 at 12:26:04 PM by Michael

Can anyone tell me where to purchase the Oliver Clover White Spray Paint online?

Re(1): Oliver Clover White Spray Paint

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 06:34:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know about on-line. Just call your AGCO dealer. He has it. Larry

pto housing seal

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on April 20, 2013 at 10:12:40 PM by chris

hey larry i am looking to replace the pto cover seal on my oliver 77 and i cant find a replacement, it looks like it was just a piece of rubber hose that crushed when assembled.

Re(1): pto housing seal

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 06:33:35 AM by Larry Harsin

You are right. Just go to your NAPA dealer and get a piece of rubber hose and fit it in and it will work fine. Larry

1855 fuel slobber

IP: 75.207.92.51 Posted on April 18, 2013 at 09:32:13 PM by Jason Berger

I have a 1974 1855 diesel and it slobbers out of number two. I changed the injector but it still does it. I feed round bales in the winter with it. Am I not getting it warm enough or is it just getting tired? I plant with this tractor too. would it help to put a disc on and just work it some too?

Re(1): 1855 fuel slobber

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 06:32:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It would help to work it. There are several possibilities as to what is wrong. You're suspicions are correct. It could be a tired engine. Larry

FWA on 2255

IP: 75.207.92.51 Posted on April 18, 2013 at 09:23:20 PM by Jason Berger

I have a 1974 2255 sn 248 775-705 ordered new with two wheel drive. can I install FWA or is it like the other olivers and I have to change the pinion shaft? how can I tell what pinion shaft I have? long or short.

Re(1): FWA on 2255

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 06:30:24 AM by Larry Harsin

If the bevel pinion shaft has the drive for the speed-o-meter, then you have the short bevel pinion shaft. Then, you can't change the tractor over unless you tear the whole tractor down and completely rebuild it. Larry

Oliver 1900 hydrapower

IP: 24.106.132.185 Posted on April 16, 2013 at 01:49:47 PM by John Harvey

When cold starting, 1900 2 speed works in both ranges. But once it is up to temperature in 10-15 minutes, high range is out. Pressure jumps between 120-150psi when high range is engaged, but still moves like in low range. Are plates worn or seals gone bad? any suggestions

Re(1): Oliver 1900 hydrapower

IP: 75.104.168.163 Posted on April 17, 2013 at 08:09:34 AM by Larry Harsin

The clutch plates may be bad or the seals. Otherwise, I have found that the collector ring and the clutch hub may be worn. Larry

1850 Perkins diesel

IP: 67.236.246.165 Posted on April 14, 2013 at 12:22:58 PM by Chris Smith

Larry, I've got a 354 Perkins in an 1850 getting engine oil in the injection pump and returning to tank. From what i have found and and spoke with my pump guy, it seems to be flooding the pump drive. Have you seen this before? Most think I'm crazy. Thanks for any help!

Re(1): 1850 Perkins diesel

IP: 75.104.168.163 Posted on April 17, 2013 at 08:07:43 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I haven't encountered that problem. Your Pump Guy may be right on. Larry

1850 remotes

IP: 65.175.173.27 Posted on April 13, 2013 at 08:05:29 PM by Charley

i just aquired an 1850 that someone has capped the remotes was wondering if you could tell me which plugs are the remotes rather than just pulling them and see where the oil shoots from thanks

Re(1): 1850 remotes

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on April 13, 2013 at 10:28:30 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2- 1/2" pipe plugs on each side of the hydraulic unit. They are lower than the rock shaft or the 3 point. You need to get an Operator's Manual and it will show you this stuff. You can get one from the Floyd Co Museum in Charles City IA 641-288-1099. Larry

1750 oliver diesel head gasket leak

IP: 68.169.243.102 Posted on April 11, 2013 at 10:22:34 PM by Matt

I completely rebuild my engine, head plained, block decked, sleeve protrusion corrected, you name it. I put the head on torqued it down and when i filled with coolant i had it coming out all over. Seems to me that the #3 cylidner started the leaking and filled the last 4 cylinders with coolant. Any ideas? I ordered a new gasket, and seeing what could have gone wrong.

Re(1): 1750 oliver diesel head gasket leak

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on April 12, 2013 at 08:18:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure you have the correct head gasket. Otherwise, I don't know what to say. It's pretty discouraging deal to have all that done and then that happen. Could it be possible that the head has a crack or a break? Larry

Oliver 880

IP: 216.51.155.152 Posted on April 11, 2013 at 03:00:33 PM by Tony

I recently had my son put a new battery in our Oliver 880 gas. Well, he hooked it up backwards and said he saw a little smoke before he realized it was hooked up wrong... like perhaps he fried a wire. When he hooked it back up right he said that all the lights still worked but it wouldn't start or turn over. I am curious what you think might need to be replaced? I have the wiring diagram as found in the manual but i'm not sure where to start.

Re(1): Oliver 880

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on April 12, 2013 at 08:15:52 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll just have to hook it up and use a test light to try to figure it out. Your wiring diagram should be a big help in making the diagnosis. As far as the smoke is concerned, it could have been a regulator or if it has an alternator, perhaps it got fried. If you can't figure it out, give me a call 712-362-2966. We can talk about it. Larry

Oliver 1550 Diesel

IP: 174.253.212.3 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 02:07:08 PM by John Harlon

I inherited an Oliver 1550 diesel and its been sitting for almost 5 years. I drained the fuel and the lines, cleaned everything, added new fuel, and bled the system all the way through the injectors. When I tried to start it, I had compression and it would run for a few seconds. After a few times of doing this, I have no compression, no smoke or anything. Pulled the valve cover off. Everything seems to be moving. Pulled the front apart, and all the gears look fine, and move fine. Any ideas what could be causing zero compression? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1550 Diesel

IP: 166.205.55.32 Posted on April 10, 2013 at 04:39:25 PM by Jesse

You might wanna look in the side primer pump and se if it's spring loaded it kinda sounds like ur not getting fuel I had a super 88 diesel do that to me and I took the primer pump off and put me a new electric pump on thanks Jesse

Re(2): Oliver 1550 Diesel

IP: 174.233.194.20 Posted on April 10, 2013 at 09:51:34 PM by John

To be honest, I don't see a primer pump. But I'm not too sure what I'm looking for either.

Re(3): Oliver 1550 Diesel

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on April 12, 2013 at 08:00:11 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have a later tractor that doesn't use a primer pump. You may want to call Charles City museum, give them your serial number and get a Shop Manual for your tractor. 641-228-1099. You may have lack of compression because the cylinders are all washed down with unburned fuel. Larry

what plow to use

IP: 70.194.128.82 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:36:32 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Can a good strong running 1855 diesel pull a 5 bottom plow or should I limit it to a 4 bottom? Thank you.

Re(1): what plow to use

IP: 69.26.8.98 Posted on April 11, 2013 at 09:29:38 PM by Bill Wagner

I pull 5 14s with my 1650, though I have light soil. It seems to handle it just fine so I see no reason why your 1855 wouldn't pull 5 in most any soil.

Re(2): what plow to use

IP: 216.90.64.210 Posted on April 27, 2013 at 08:57:06 PM by Alan Tabor

We ran 6-14 on a 1855 in southern Illinois and it did well even in the clay ground

which oliver 88 do i have and oil

IP: 174.100.156.222 Posted on April 8, 2013 at 06:06:03 PM by ted wajda

i have a Oliver 88 and it year but i was wondering if it was a super or not? the serial number is 4504863. what engine oil do i use for it and the transmission fluid do i use

Re(1): which oliver 88 do i have and oil

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:20:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number tells us it was built in 1954. It is not a Super, it is a Fleetline. You can use 10w30 or 15-40 in the engine. I would use 90 w transmission oil in the rear end. Larry

model year

IP: 68.150.102.156 Posted on April 8, 2013 at 02:20:26 PM by Blaine

Hi My father in law has a oliver but can not remember the year we have the seial number would you have any idea how i would track down the year with the serial number or if that is even possible it is a 880. Thank you

Re(1): model year

IP: 76.208.31.103 Posted on April 8, 2013 at 05:22:56 PM by 90%ret'd

Oliver Wheel Tractors Model 880 Year Starting Serial Number
1958 60505
1959 71640
1960 84555
1961 111262
1962 117640
1963 128911

2-105 hydraulic leak

IP: 66.116.62.178 Posted on April 8, 2013 at 12:23:05 PM by Ted

My 2-105 sat all winter.Last used in October. When I connected the batteries and started it up, there was a lot of moaning from the hydraulic pump. shut it down and checked level. No fluid on dipstick. It took 1.5 gallons to fill it up. Ran the tractor 4 hours on chisel plow. Pump started to moan again. Checked level, dry again. Parked tractor. Where do you think the leak is? How do check whether it is PTO seals versus pump? I was not running PTO. Why would it leak just sitting? The level was OK last fall.

Re(1): 2-105 hydraulic leak

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:15:55 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to check out all of the possibilities. Typically, it is the PTO, but you are going to have to check it out. Do you know where the oil is going? Is the level in the transmission higher or too full? Larry

Re(2): 2-105 hydraulic leak

IP: 66.116.62.178 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 02:58:35 PM by Ted

We will get into this week toward the end of the week. Will check level as you suggest.If it is not PTO seals, how big of a job is it to check pump and rebuild? Tractor has cab,does it have to be removed?

Re(3): 2-105 hydraulic leak

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on April 12, 2013 at 07:55:37 AM by Larry Harsin

To work on the pump, you don't have to remove the cab. The pump is located below the cab on the left side. Larry

1850 shifting problem

IP: 206.53.12.244 Posted on April 6, 2013 at 04:25:21 PM by Jamie

My 1850 Oliver transmission has suddenly become very stubborn when I try shifting into reverse. R1 or R2, same result. Forward gears still ok. What should I look for after opening transmission?

Re(1): 1850 shifting problem

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:13:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing to check: Does it have plenty of oil? Is the lube pump working? Larry

1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.220.34.70 Posted on April 6, 2013 at 03:44:18 PM by Nathan

Our 1850 leaks pressure from the left side hydraulic couplers to the right but not vise versa. We disassembled the hydra-electric control assembly and found no problems. Was reassembled with new O-rings and bench tested it with air, the problem appears to still be there. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:01:23 AM by Larry Harsin

That is sort of the "nature of the beast". I have lots of people complaining about that problem. It's something you have to put up with. Give me a call: 712-362-2966. Larry

Marvel Schebler USX 37

IP: 68.169.245.84 Posted on April 6, 2013 at 11:20:50 AM by Arnie

Carb has new kit in it and I have adjusted the float several times. The float is not a "sinker" but carb continues to leak fuel past the needle and seat. Need advice and setup specs. Thanx..Arnie

Re(1): Marvel Schebler USX 37

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 08:58:46 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to be sure the float is not touching the sides of the carb. The way I adjust the float is to leave the needle out of it and mark the top and bottom with a lead pencil on the side of the carb. Then, reinstall the needle and set it so that the float tops out midway between the marks on the side of the carb. Larry

1850 shifting rail

IP: 166.205.55.41 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 07:03:12 PM by Jess Hayes

Larry does the 1850 354 Perkins 6forward 2reverse rail does it have to have the key way in the back of the rail bcuz ours broke and we r gonna make one a machinest is and people has looked and said not necessary it needs it no shifting rail.

Re(1): 1850 shifting rail

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 10:59:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. Ask Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1850 shifting rail

IP: 75.69.205.65 Posted on April 3, 2013 at 05:40:28 AM by doug

If it has hydra power drive the book says you have to split the tractor to replace it i did mine without splitting if you want details email me

1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.220.34.70 Posted on April 6, 2013 at 03:44:18 PM by Nathan

Our 1850 leaks pressure from the left side hydraulic couplers to the right but not vise versa. We disassembled the hydra-electric control assembly and found no problems. Was reassembled with new O-rings and bench tested it with air, the problem appears to still be there. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 09:01:23 AM by Larry Harsin

That is sort of the "nature of the beast". I have lots of people complaining about that problem. It's something you have to put up with. Give me a call: 712-362-2966. Larry

Marvel Schebler USX 37

IP: 68.169.245.84 Posted on April 6, 2013 at 11:20:50 AM by Arnie

Carb has new kit in it and I have adjusted the float several times. The float is not a "sinker" but carb continues to leak fuel past the needle and seat. Need advice and setup specs. Thanx..Arnie

Re(1): Marvel Schebler USX 37

IP: 75.104.168.224 Posted on April 9, 2013 at 08:58:46 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to be sure the float is not touching the sides of the carb. The way I adjust the float is to leave the needle out of it and mark the top and bottom with a lead pencil on the side of the carb. Then, reinstall the needle and set it so that the float tops out midway between the marks on the side of the carb. Larry

pto

IP: 70.196.196.243 Posted on April 1, 2013 at 07:55:48 PM by Nash Kauffman

My grandpa has a 1850 diesel and the 3pt quite working and the PTO stopped and power steering doesn't work now.

Re(1): pto

IP: 76.208.31.103 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 07:06:46 PM by 90%ret'd

My guess would be that the splines on the front of the PTO shaft and/or the ones in the drive hub in the fly wheel are worn away, you can pull the lower PTO shaft, pop off the cap above the PTO shield and ,with the engine shut off, and PTO clutch engaged insert the lower shaft into the hollow upper shaft, if you can turn it that is your problem.

1850 industrial

IP: 166.205.68.45 Posted on April 1, 2013 at 07:13:39 PM by Jesse hayes

Larry did they make a 1850 industrial in 1968 with the Perkins in it 1850 industrial

Re(1): 1850 industrial

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 10:56:29 PM by Larry Harsin Yes they did. It was a low production tractor, but they made them. Larry

brake seals

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on April 1, 2013 at 10:33:39 AM by chris

hey larry im having trouble locating brake seals for my 49 oliver 77, any help is greatly appreciated. also how do i get the drum off, i did it the way tjey said in the book and im moving the entire tractor, are they left hand thread? thanks for all you do

Re(1): brake seals

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 10:55:23 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver part number for the seal is M1110. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Those nuts have right hand thread. Larry

Re(2): brake seals

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on April 3, 2013 at 08:39:55 PM by chris

thanks larry i used a 3/4 to 1 inch adaptor and my breaker bar they came right out and i got the timken cross over numbers for the seals i need ordered them up today, should have em friday

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