Oliver Super 77 RC Gas- Oil Pan Removal

IP: 76.211.6.41 Posted on August 31, 2008 at 10:38:55 PM by Terry Allen

Have taken off the oil pan for painting and new gasket and have several questions: 1. Should I do anything below, other than clean the oil pump pick up screeen? 2. Should I use silicone to get a good gasket seal? 3. What torque to tighten the bolts and what sequence is best?

Re(1): Oliver Super 77 RC Gas- Oil Pan Removal

IP: 75.104.161.51 Posted on September 1, 2008 at 06:04:42 AM by Larry Harsin

1. It depends on how the tractor ran before you took it off. If it has good oil pressure and runs o.k. I would'nt do anything with it. 2. You could. Put just a light coat on the pan and the block. Let it set to get tacky (approx 15 min), then put it on. Don't over tighten the bolts, just tighten them a little. Otherwise, you will crush the gasket. 3. There isn't any sequence. Just run them up to be slightly snug. After you use the tractor some, you could check them again to see if they need to be turned a bit more. Larry

serial number

IP: 64.89.249.226 Posted on August 31, 2008 at 03:59:48 PM by Richard Long

I just purchased a wide front row crop. I am not sure what model it is and cannot find a serial number on the dash. It's a diesel and has 185220 M100 on the engine block. Any idea what I have or where I might find the serial number?

Re(1): serial number

IP: 72.26.75.71 Posted on August 31, 2008 at 07:48:28 PM by oleblu

Look on the right side of the trans. housing. Should be a serial # plate there. The M100 number sounds like a 77. Re(2): serial number

IP: 76.179.39.172 Posted on September 3, 2008 at 04:39:23 AM by RLong

Thanks, but I can't find a plate anywhere, not even one that might be painted over. It looks like a 77. Main reason is because I want to get an owners manual and for reference when I need parts.

Re(3): serial number

IP: 75.104.191.202 Posted on September 3, 2008 at 06:17:42 AM by Larry Harsin

You have an Oliver 77 diesel. Larry

1955 cab conversion

IP: 216.229.17.6 Posted on August 29, 2008 at 09:57:20 AM by Greg

I am looking at purchasing a 1955 w/the original Oliver cab. I am looking at replacing the cab with one from a early White tractor to give me a more modern cab. It would appear the sheetmetal and axles on the tractor would match for the new cab. Have you ever done this before or heard of it being done? Can it be done? Thanks, Greg M

Re(1): 1955 cab conversion

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 30, 2008 at 06:09:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done it. It can be done. It is a lot of work. Larry

oliver 70 rear motor mount shims

IP: 206.193.244.175 Posted on August 29, 2008 at 09:56:59 AM by DaleHilliard

I am restoring 1947 oliver 70. I removed the motor and rebuilt.Cannot get all of the side shims back in rear mounts.I don't see it as a big problem,but how in the world did they get all of them in there. I cannot get near all them in.By the way,I asked you a question about an oil leak on this 70,and I was "really surprised" to see it in your article in the Heritage Magazine. Thanks,DH in PA

Re(1): oliver 70 rear motor mount shims

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 30, 2008 at 06:07:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Don't worry about the shims. Get it so that the engine lines up with the transmission as good as possible and let that be good enough. Larry

oliver 550 fluids

IP: 68.53.124.222 Posted on August 28, 2008 at 10:09:45 PM by Lade Conlee

1967 oliver 550 gas. I know it takes 20 qts. The fill plug is the one between your legs when sitting in the seat right ? and it has 2 drain plugs on the bottom right ? How do you check the fluid level? What do I put in it 80w 90 ? 10 30 ? Also for the hyd system what oil does it use? and where is the drain for it? I figure I can fill it from the dip stick hole behind seat. Will I need to bleed it after a fluid change ?

Re(1): oliver 550 fluids

IP: 75.104.161.251 Posted on August 29, 2008 at 05:57:43 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 3 drain plugs on the transmission. Use 80/90. The fill plug is the one between your legs, as you say. The level plug is on the main housing behind the right hand axle housing. You won't have to bleed it. For the Hydraulic system, I use a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. You have to pump it out. You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 or Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): oliver 550 fluids

IP: 68.53.124.222 Posted on August 29, 2008 at 11:07:27 AM by Lade Conlee

I have a manual and it is clear as mud. It says for hyd fluid it was 5w oil or sae 30 as a forklift guy I have some iso 32 hyd fluid but dont know if that would be good it did show the pipe plug and pump it out but it said when you refill, to bleed the hyd sys of air bubbles. Also I will look for the third drain.

Re(3): oliver 550 fluids

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 30, 2008 at 06:05:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Your iso 32 would probably work. I have never had to bleed it for air bubbles. Larry

1850 perkins

IP: 144.92.86.203 Posted on August 27, 2008 at 08:57:17 AM by mark

I own a 1850 and my pto makes a rumble nosie . I beleieve i need to replace the shaft. how difficult is this and should i replace the hub? I need to drive it back to the barn will it harm anything. If i take it to the shop they said 12-14 hr of work to do this job does this sound right? What else should be replace maybe since this is a field tractor?

Re(1): 1850 perkins

IP: 75.104.161.59 Posted on August 27, 2008 at 02:43:37 PM by Larry Harsin

To replace the shaft and the drive hub, is going to require removal of the engine. However, I would have my mechanic do some checking before you tear it down. This noise might be something else. I would check oil levels before driving it more. I would carefully idle it, not run it very fast to move it. I think 12 - 14 hrs of work is a fair estimate. I can't speculate what else should be replaced. You have to inspect worn items and go from there. Larry

55 Steering box

IP: 63.23.47.181 Posted on August 26, 2008 at 03:38:17 PM by Robert Starner

I just noticed that when you are sitting on the tractor (with the wheels pointing staight)the left control arm is pointing straight down,and the right control arm is pointing to the rear of the tractor at about a 30 degree angle. Is that the way it should be? Couold this be the cause of my steering problem? Thanks

Re(1): 55 Steering box

IP: 75.104.161.59 Posted on August 27, 2008 at 06:03:51 AM by Larry Harsin

It might be, but not necessarily. I would think though, that both arms should be pointing straight down when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. Larry

oliver 1755

IP: 75.105.128.59 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 03:45:25 PM by chadbroster

Hi, our oliver 1755 will start but won't stay running. It looses rpms and then dies. We changed the fuel filter and drained the diesel tank. Do think the rings are out of the fuel pump. It has the continental diesel engine. Also I could not find a priming lever on the pump. We have no operators manual.

Re(1): oliver 1755

IP: 75.105.51.209 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 07:29:31 PM by Larry Harsin

If the pump has never been off of the tractor, it may be the governor ring, inside the injection pump may be breaking up, and plugging the return. A simple way to check, is to remove the little timing cover on the pump, and if you see material in there that looks like coffee grounds, the governor ring is bad. This means the pump will have to be removed from the tractor and taken to a pump repair shop. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 770 Options

IP: 74.206.81.35 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 01:20:50 PM by Ken Yow

Looking for info on the Power Booster (high / lo) shift on the 770. Is there a document or manual available? Was this a true shift on the go option?

Re(1): Oliver 770 Options

IP: 75.105.51.209 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 07:24:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It was a true shift on the go option. It is in the Operator's Manual on how to use it. There are speed charts etc in the manual also. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-288-1099. Larry

oliver 500 filters

IP: 72.236.206.231 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 12:10:49 PM by sam eggleston

Larry, I have an Oliver 500 diesel,which I understand is the same as a David Brown 850. I am having a hard time finding fuel and oil filter elements and would appreciate any help if you know of a source for them. Thanks, Sam Eggleston

Re(1): oliver 500 filters

IP: 75.105.51.209 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 07:21:53 PM by Larry Harsin

First of all, check with your Case/IH dealer and NAPA. We have these sources for David Brown parts: Elmer Landman 519-363-2663 Email: ejlandman@sympatico.ca, Carmichael Tractor in White Pine TN, ask for Buck 865-674-2229. Larry

Super 66 Diesel hydraulic pump

IP: 74.5.154.183 Posted on August 23, 2008 at 04:42:45 PM by Brent Hoylman

I have an Oliver Super 66 Diesel that has a cracked center plate in the hydraulic pump. My uncle has a very nice used pump from an Oliver 77. My question is, will the pump from the 77 work in my Super 66? The casting numbers in the ends of the pump are the same, and appears that the only difference is that the 77 pump has a thicker center plate.

Re(1): Super 66 Diesel hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 06:49:46 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It will not work. The 77 pump is wider and not made to go down into that 66 transmission. If you want, you can get a new reproduction center plate from Nick Faessler. 608-897-4993 Email: faessler@wekz.net Larry

1550 lift

IP: 72.2.245.54 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 10:21:06 PM by TRAVIS STRADER

have a 1550 gas, lift quit working. lift arms are free with the engine off. hydraulics have good pressure. any ideas.

Re(1): 1550 lift

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 06:45:54 AM by Larry Harsin

It could have a sticky control spool in the servo valve. It could also have a broken elbow that supports the relief valve for the 3 point lift cylinder. Larry

Where's the Serial Number

IP: 71.238.209.16 Posted on August 21, 2008 at 08:25:07 PM by Dave Y

This is probably a stupid question, but I just brought my Grandpa's Oliver Super 88 home. I'm going to do a full restoration on it. My first step was to figure out for sure what it is, but I can't seem to find the serial number. Any help would be great.

Re(1): Where's the Serial Number

IP: 75.104.161.156 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 06:24:16 AM by Larry Harsin It is on the left side of the dash, below the steering wheel. Larry

Re(2): Where's the Serial Number

IP: 71.238.209.16 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 07:18:29 PM by Dave Y

I would have been looking for a long time before I found the tag there. My Grandpa repainted the tractor (with a brush) before he took it on the Great Eastern Iowa Tractorcade in 2002. When he did that Grandpa painted right over the serial number tag. Luckily he didn't clean it too well before painting, so I was able to get most of the paint off with out to much trouble. My Specification Number is 18-0062. My Serial Number is 10 926-801. So it looks like I've got a 1955 Super 88 Diesel! I've got plenty of decision to make and work to do, but I hope to take this tractor on the Tractorcade again. In memory of Grandpa. Thanks, Larry

Oliver 880 Engine Swap

IP: 67.209.78.98 Posted on August 21, 2008 at 12:39:47 PM by Nathan Peplinski

Hello. We have an 880 with a gas engine that is terribly inefficient, weak on power, and generally in need of repair. We love this tractor for utility work however, and would really like to put a new, diesel engine in it, preferably up to 75 hp for handling the chopperboxes in the hills. Are there any engines in particular that we should be looking for that will fit very well and be smooth-running, efficient, and have nice torque?

Re(1): Oliver 880 Engine Swap

IP: 75.104.161.156 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 06:23:05 AM by Larry Harsin

A 1650 diesel engine would fit, with some modifications. I wouldn't recommend a 1750 or a 1755 diesel. It would be a lot of work and there would be too much power for the drive train. Larry

1650 transmission capacity

IP: 72.161.223.69 Posted on August 21, 2008 at 07:28:33 AM by Aaron Lee

I can't seem to find a dipstick on the transmission of my 1650 diesel with the 18 speed (under/drive/over)transmission. Can you tell me the capacity of fluid and where to check if it is full?

Re(1): 1650 transmission capacity

IP: 75.104.161.156 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 06:19:05 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a dipstick on the transmission - on the top under the fuel tank. It holds approx. 2 gal. of ATF. You DEFINITELY need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1650 transmission capacity

IP: 207.119.113.91 Posted on August 22, 2008 at 07:15:15 PM by Aaron Lee

Yes, I know about the dipstick for the power shift box but I am talking about the main gearbox where the gear shift is located. There is a plug next to the shifter. When I remove it and look into it there is oil on the gears but I don't know how to tell if that area is full. The only dipstick in that area is on top of the hydraulic fill area right behind the metal conical filter holder in front of the seat. Is that the dipstick for the gearbox (transmission)? I was told that was for a seperate hydraulic resevoir. I know on most other tractors the gearbox and the hydraulics work from the same pool of fluid.

Re(3): 1650 transmission capacity

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 06:42:28 AM by Larry Harsin

There is no dipstick for the main transmission and differential. There is an oil level plug located behind the right rear axle housing. It is a 3/8" pipe plug. When it is full, the oil will run out. 80/90 transmission oil. It holds approx. 10 gal. Larry

1850 clutch

IP: 96.227.252.26 Posted on August 21, 2008 at 03:22:14 AM by Steve

Farm complaining about slippage on engine clutch. Only in 18 months. Did standard on site test. Release clutch in 6th gear, expecting engine to stall out. Engine continued - no stall out - clutch slipping bad. Question - is there any adjustment to remedy this problem other than the free play on the throw out bearing ? Am I correct in the knowledge that the adjusting nuts on the back of the pressure plate at each of the 4 release fingers are for finger height only.

Re(1): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.105.51.237 Posted on August 21, 2008 at 04:46:46 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are saying is correct. You will have to take it apart and put in a new clutch and pressure plate. Larry

Re(2): 1850 clutch

IP: 96.227.252.26 Posted on August 23, 2008 at 02:12:12 AM by Steve

I would like to install a 6 pad button disc instead of the fiber disc that is in now. My flywheel is not stepped, but rather flat. Can I use a button clutch ? Are there spacers avalible to simulate the step ?

Re(3): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on August 24, 2008 at 06:53:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You should talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or where ever you buy your parts, about the spacers etc. They can tell you about availability etc. Larry

Oliver Diesel lift pump

IP: 216.229.17.6 Posted on August 18, 2008 at 12:28:03 PM by Greg

My Oliver 88 Diesel is leaking fuel from the diaphram in the lift pump. I tried to order a 1KS-5602-A Diaghram assy and AGCO says they no longer make this part, I have to order a complete lift pump. Are you aware of any replacement diaphram for the Oliver lift pump or is a complete assy my only option?

Re(1): Oliver Diesel lift pump

IP: 75.105.52.161 Posted on August 19, 2008 at 04:40:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Korves Bros. Oliver has them. 618-939-6681. Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry

olivers rods

IP: 207.118.202.55 Posted on August 16, 2008 at 06:12:03 AM by jack

What tractor models used the Waukesha 320 and 310 engine. I am looking for some connecting rods out of both, but don't know what model tractors used these engines.

Re(1): olivers rods

IP: 75.104.183.144 Posted on August 18, 2008 at 05:40:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Oliver did not use the 320 engine. They did use the 310. The 310 engine was used in the 1800B and C diesels, the 1850 gas, 1750 and 1755 diesels, the 1855 and 1955 diesels, also the 1950T diesel. Larry

770

IP: 76.195.235.29 Posted on August 14, 2008 at 08:19:57 AM by Cal Innes

Hi Larry, Well, I bought a 770 with a mounted corn picker (well used)and am almost sorry I ever did.I've taken the picker off because it has a steering problem.I most likely will not get to the repairs before snow flies, but I am curious....the tractor has power steering and works fine making right turns, but has nothing going left. Any ideas? ( (I figure it may be one of those politically conservative tractors that just won't make that turn to the liberal left!) Thanks for your time, Cal Innes

Re(1): 770

IP: 75.105.51.192 Posted on August 14, 2008 at 09:06:06 PM by Larry Harsin

:-) :-) If it is like that, there is probably something broken in the control end of the unit. I can't say for sure as I don't know what power steering you have. Give me a call some evening next week. 712-362-2966. Larry

70 Carb Update

IP: 12.216.67.206 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 09:55:49 PM by Eric-IA

I did some more testing and am positive it is getting fuel to the carb. I used some heat and got the seat out- also got some additional gunk out from under it. I tried reassembling it with the old parts and had the same starvation issue. Who would you recommend I call for a carb and float kit? It is a '39 model BS393J.

Re(1): 70 Carb Update

IP: 75.105.51.192 Posted on August 14, 2008 at 09:00:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Call tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

oliver 60 grill

IP: 4.224.78.229 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 07:44:29 PM by Austin White

I have an oliver 60 that i am restoring and i amm in need of a right side grill. I am also in need of all the rest of the sheet metal except for the hood. If you know of any for sale i would be interested. Also i have a set of side shields for a Hart Parr 70 for sale if you know of anyone who needs some.

Re(1): oliver 60 grill

IP: 75.105.51.192 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 08:58:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I might have a right side grill. Call me at 712-362-2966. You can get new repro side panels from Richard Lynch in Eaton OH. 937-456-6686. I don't know who would want the 70 side shields at present. Larry

550 Battery

IP: 68.102.163.31 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 09:31:01 PM by Joe

I need to know what group of battery fits a 1969 Oliver 550.

Re(1): 550 Battery

IP: 75.104.182.23 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 06:09:01 AM by Larry Harsin

For a gas engine battery size SAE 3KM. For a diesel engine battery size SAE 1H. Larry

6-354.4 into 1800 ind

IP: 97.112.114.208 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 07:24:31 PM by scott

how tough a job to put a perkins 6-354.4 into my 1800 industrial

Re(1): 6-354.4 into 1800 ind

IP: 75.104.182.23 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 11:23:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The major thing is to put a different frame on the tractor. One that will accommodate that engine is one from an 1850. The radiator will have to be different. There may be some problems with the clutch shaft and clutch parts. Larry

Re(2): 6-354.4 into 1800 ind

IP: 97.112.114.208 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 08:21:43 PM by scott

this tractor has the big frame what is the difference with the frames

Re(3): 6-354.4 into 1800 ind

IP: 75.105.51.192 Posted on August 13, 2008 at 08:53:15 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it will fit that Perkins engine, though. The engine mount holes won't be the same. Larry

Re(4): 6-354.4 into 1800 ind

IP: 97.112.114.208 Posted on August 14, 2008 at 04:56:32 PM by scott

thats what I was thinking the holes will be different but it looks like the same frame they put in the 1900 with the detroit I will keep you up to date becouse the engine comes tomorrow

1850 PTO Shaft Bearing

IP: 75.77.66.230 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 06:56:16 AM by Kevin

I am trying to install a new bearing on the pto shaft of an 1850 Oliver. The bearing will not slide on to the shaft. The id is about .010 to small. I also cannot slide the bearing into the housing, it is slightly oversize. Is this common? If so what is the solution?

Re(1): 1850 PTO Shaft Bearing

IP: 75.104.182.23 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 11:19:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably you have an incorrect bearing. Order a bearing from AGCO and try that. Larry

temp. gauge

IP: 4.23.226.230 Posted on August 11, 2008 at 11:30:34 AM by Gary Greenland

Hi Larry, The temp gauge on my 1550 gas tractor reads cold until the engine warms up and then goes full hot. No "normal" reading. I've replaced the sending unit twice with new AGCO 30-3485544. Do I now order a new dash gauge? Thanks, Gary

Re(1): temp. gauge

IP: 75.104.182.23 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 05:42:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I think a new gauge would be appropriate. Larry

Re(2): temp. gauge

IP: 76.211.2.249 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 07:03:09 PM by Terry Allen

Larry, if the gauge was taken to ground (where it attaches to the sending unit) and needle moves full scale, isn't the gauge OK

Re(3): temp. gauge

IP: 75.104.182.23 Posted on August 12, 2008 at 11:10:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Not necessarily. It may not be reading correctly. Also, if your alternator is overcharging, it would make the gauge read higher temp. Larry

Oliver 1555

IP: 70.169.108.163 Posted on August 9, 2008 at 11:32:07 AM by Robert

I have a 1555 it seems to run hot after running for awhile but it doesn't boil over or loose any fluid. What temp. should it run on a hot day? It is running around 240 deg.F. Is this too hot if it is not boiling over?

Re(1): Oliver 1555

IP: 75.104.161.46 Posted on August 11, 2008 at 06:18:54 AM by Larry Harsin

If it isn't boiling over, I don't think it is running too hot. It should run about 200 degrees. Larry

770 throttle linkage

IP: 216.195.144.215 Posted on August 8, 2008 at 02:03:33 PM by Nick

I'm having trouble with the throttle linkage on my 770 and the shop manual isn't quite as clear as I'd like. The problem is that the tractor idles fine but when you try to open the tractor up it reaches full power when the throttle is only half way down. My question is, when adjusting the rod that runs from the governor lever to the carburetor, is the lever suppose to be in a straight up position or does it not matter which direction the lever is pointing. I ask this because the way the linkage is currently adjusted, the governor lever does not come far enough ahead to touch the spring on the bumping screw in the governor so I'm wondering if the rod that runs from the throttle underneath the battery to the governor rod behind the carburetor needs to be lengthened, in order to make the governor lever point straight up when the throttle is set to maximum, before i adjust the governor to carburetor rod. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Re(1): 770 throttle linkage

IP: 75.104.161.46 Posted on August 11, 2008 at 06:17:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The procedure to adjust the governor linkages is discussed in your Operator's Manual, more than the Shop Manual. With the throttle lever in the full speed position, the rod that runs from the carb to the governor arm, should be aprox. 1/16" longer than the hole. This might help then, for you to follow the instructions in the Manual. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 205.141.3.1 Posted on August 7, 2008 at 11:39:48 AM by Scott(NC)

Looking for a hood and a injector pump for my olvier 77 diesel. i was told the Hyd. head was worn out on it. Can you help me with this. Also I will be rebuilding the motor and need some help on where to buy a complete overhual kit for this tractor. All the information will help out alot. Thanks Scott

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 75.104.161.39 Posted on August 7, 2008 at 09:14:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Bill at Central Fuel Injection about the pump. 712-362-4200. Call Korves Bros about an overhaul kit. 618-939-6681. Larry

1850 oliver steering arm

IP: 71.10.100.93 Posted on August 6, 2008 at 04:14:02 PM by Jeremy

When it rains it pours. You we're right about the o rings in the hydraulics. It completely stopped the leak. My new problem has to do with a broken steering arm. It is the arm that connects to the tie rods and to the shaft going up to the steering cylinder. The steering arm split in two off the shaft. I was just sitting in the yard and turning the wheel and not in motion. I do have a heavy White loader on the tractor. Would this be enough extra stress to break this piece? Or could it just be metal fatigue? My next question has to do with which bearing I need to order. I am having trouble understanding my oliver parts book. As long as I'm going to being in there I want to replace the bearing/s in the front end carrier. Is there even a bearing in the steering cylinder to replace or are both bearings (Ref #3 and 31)listed on page U2-5 in my oliver parts book the ones I need to put in the carrier. I appologize for the lengthy question. Thanks for any and all help. Jeremy

Re(1): 1850 oliver steering arm

IP: 75.104.161.39 Posted on August 7, 2008 at 09:10:24 PM by Larry Harsin

It could break it, it is the metal fatigue. You are lucky it broke sitting on the yard instead of going down the road or something. The bearings are listed with the carrier. There are no bearings in the cylinder. Larry

Super 88 Overheating Problems

IP: 74.204.40.18 Posted on August 5, 2008 at 06:15:52 PM by Ralf Cunningham

Larry, I have a 1955 Super 88 that the engine is stock. I had a water pump start squealing last fall so I swapped it out. I also had a hole in my radiator so I swapped it out also. I now have a overheating problem. It isn't sudden but gradual. There isn't a thermostat in the engine.I watched the water circulate and it seems to surge into the top tank. First very litte or no flow then a surge. I tried to check the flow through the raditator and there didn't seem to be any obstruction. I removed the water pump and everything seems to be okay. Any suggestions what to try next. Thank you.

Re(1): Super 88 Overheating Problems

IP: 143.115.155.55 Posted on August 5, 2008 at 09:15:35 PM by Larry Kruse

Have you checked the radiator hoses? I have seen hoses that get old and separate causing a membrane to form a bubble and block the flow in the hose. Unless you look for the loose material, the hose may otherwise look normal. The solution is to replace the hoses.

Re(2): Super 88 Overheating Problems

IP: 75.104.183.77 Posted on August 6, 2008 at 05:28:14 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do, is put a thermostat in that engine. It is not designed to run without a thermostat. That would probably take care of the problem. Larry

oliver 1600/50 or 55

IP: 24.116.17.253 Posted on August 5, 2008 at 02:54:06 PM by gary in neb.

i'm looking at an Oliver row crop that the guy says he bought used on a sale and dont know much about. he was told it's a 1600 but has 1655 tags on the side. model number 46522367 serial 257823490. the under/over lever is in front of the dash, not with the throttle lever, the engine has big nozzles, not pencils (someone told me the big nozzles was from a 1600) so i'm wondering if there are any other ways to tell, like if someone just changed motors, or what is going on.

Re(1): oliver 1600/50 or 55

IP: 75.104.183.77 Posted on August 6, 2008 at 05:25:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number is for a 1975 1655. It sounds like someone has put a different motor in it. It's an earlier motor - could be a 1650 or a 1600 either one. Larry

Crankcase Pressure

IP: 216.81.225.62 Posted on August 5, 2008 at 09:27:56 AM by Steve Morgan

I have an Oliver 88 that has been running really well. I just replaced the sleeves, pistons, rings, manifold, and a some other minor things such as new gauges. I used it last week with a flail for approximately 1 hour. In the first 15 minutes I had oil coming out of the breather on top of the motor. I was mowing a very thick portion of the field and running at a steep up-slope. It was working very hard for a minute or two before the oil started to slowly come out of the top. As soon as the oil came out I lifted up the flail, brought it back to idle, and then let it run for a couple of minutes. The oil then stopped coming out of the breather and I went back to mowing without an issue. After I got it back to the shop I was reading the parts book/manual and noticed that the part listed as the "drain ####" was broken off. This is the little elbow peice coming off of the engine block approximately 5 inches above the top of the frame and approximately 10 inches back from the distributor. I am assuming that this part releases the built-up crankcase pressure in some way?...and that crankcase pressure is what made the oil travel up and out of the breather on top of the engine? Basically, I am first wondering if that is a reasonable assumption of what is going wrong. Also, if that is probably the case, what type of part do I need to replace? I assume that it is an acutal pressure release valve that is specifically set for a specific pressure OR it is simply a peice of tubing that allows pressure to escape the engine block unobstructed? Thank you in advance for your help. I am really stuck as to how I can acquire these parts without actually knowing what it is that I need to get. Look forward to hearing from you!!!

Re(1): Crankcase Pressure

IP: 75.104.183.77 Posted on August 6, 2008 at 05:14:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the part that you are describing is a drain #### for the cooling system, which would have nothing to do with the crankcase. The breather on top of the valve cover is where all of the crankcase ventilation takes place. It is not unusual to see a little bit of dampness come off of that. Possibly your rings aren't seated from your overhaul. I would suggest you go ahead and run your tractor 50 - 60 hours and get the rings seated etc. and I think your trouble will be over. Larry

clutch problems super 99 gm

IP: 69.77.205.66 Posted on August 4, 2008 at 10:38:35 AM by ryan

recently i have had trouble getting the clutch to engage and disengage on my 99 gm ...when i start the tractor water sprays out of the clutch housing(from around the cover) and i was wondering if there was a drain that needs cleaned to let the water out or if it was safe to drill through the bottom of the clutch housing to let the water drain. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.

Re(1): clutch problems super99 gm

IP: 75.104.188.79 Posted on August 4, 2008 at 06:56:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe I'd drill a small hole to let the water out. Take the lid off and see where to drill without hitting something. Larry

1600 engine noise

IP: 75.107.234.40 Posted on August 3, 2008 at 10:09:07 PM by keith door

we are thinking of buying a 1600 oliver deisel tractor. when the engine is at idle with no load it makes a popping noise from the exaust.under a load or at a higher rpm the noise goes away. we took off the muffler and the noise is still there. is this normal for this type of diesel engine or may there be a problem?

Re(1): 1600 engine noise

IP: 75.104.188.79 Posted on August 4, 2008 at 06:52:39 PM by Larry Harsin

There may be a problem. It could be a valve problem or it could be an injector that isn't right or something else. It could be just the valve adjustment isn't right. Also, it could be a plugged energy cell. Larry

Oliver 1550

IP: 75.162.31.157 Posted on August 3, 2008 at 08:41:16 PM by Dave Marley

Chasing down a couple of leaks. One: Looks like the input seal on the front of the main transmission is leaking. Can this be replaced externally with the sprocket off without going into transmission? If so, should I be concerned about the bearing on that shaft? Thanks, DM

Re(1): Oliver 1550

IP: 75.104.188.79 Posted on August 4, 2008 at 06:50:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, to question one. You don't necessarily have to be concerned about the bearing. If it is loose, you might want to take a shim out. Larry

Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 12.216.67.206 Posted on August 3, 2008 at 03:50:26 PM by Eric-IA

I have been having some issues with the Marvel carb on my 70. The tractor will start, run for less then a minute, and then die. Upon restarting, it seems like it burns the gas in the bowl and that the carb is not keeping up. I have checked the flow to the carb- no problem there. I have also disassembled the carb twice, cleaned it, used air to blow it out, and adjusted the float, all to no avail. I can hear the needle move when I flip the carb over off of the tractor, so I donŐt think it is binding. Would it be worth it to attempt to rebuild it or is there potentially more things wrong with it and be better off with a reman?

Re(1): Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 75.104.161.164 Posted on August 3, 2008 at 04:00:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe I would try to rebuild it. There is surely something wrong there. I would make sure that there is no obstruction in the outlet of the fuel tank and the fuel strainer. Also, make sure that the fuel tank has a vented cap. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 12.216.67.206 Posted on August 3, 2008 at 10:43:41 PM by Eric-IA

I have already used gas tank sealer to treat the tank and have replaced the sediment bowl, installed an in-line filter, and ran rubber fuel line to the carb inlet. I checked the flow with the gas cap on and off and that is not the problem. The seat is stuck in the carb, any tips on removal?

Re(3): Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 75.104.188.79 Posted on August 4, 2008 at 06:47:40 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to warm the carb body a bit with some heat, to help free the seat. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 12.216.67.206 Posted on August 11, 2008 at 09:11:45 PM by Eric-IA

Was finally able to heat it up and get the seat out. Was able to get some additional gunk out. Did try reassembling but had the same gas starvation issues. Who do you recommend contacting for a carb kit?

Re(5): Oliver 70 Carb

IP: 75.105.54.104 Posted on September 12, 2008 at 04:12:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

hydraulic cover gasket

IP: 71.10.100.93 Posted on August 1, 2008 at 09:00:13 PM by Jeremy

I replaced the leaky o ring on my 1850 Oliver hydraulics. My problem now is that I can get the hydraulic cover to seal tightly. I even put a new gasket on it from my agco dealer and tightened everything evenly. Is there a sealant you would recommend using? Or another solution. It leaks more than I would like. I think the old gasket had some sort of sealant because it really adheard to the tractor. What do you think? I really appreciate all the help.

Re(1): hydraulic cover gasket

IP: 75.105.52.219 Posted on August 2, 2008 at 05:48:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I would suspect that there is another O ring leaking and causing the problem. I don't normally use sealer on that gasket unless the gasket is damaged somewhat. There are a lot of O rings on those sleeves. Check them out. Larry

Re(2): hydraulic cover gasket

IP: 71.10.100.93 Posted on August 2, 2008 at 06:49:46 AM by jeremy

Ok Larry, thanks for the advice. I will give that a try. I see there are 12 of those o rings on the sleeves. I will put new ones on all of them just to be safe. Thanks again Jeremy

Re(3): hydraulic cover gasket

IP: 75.104.161.164 Posted on August 2, 2008 at 10:12:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I think replacing all of them would be a good thing to do. Larry

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