"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - August, 2009 Archives


77 D sputtering

IP: 74.205.199.160 Posted on August 31, 2009 at 07:58:47 PM by Eric

I am running my 77 diesel on a mower and when the engine comes under load it starts sputtering. When I stop the PTO and push in the clutch it comes out of it. This tractor has an electric fuel pump and the injectors have been cleaned and pump overhauled. Any suggestions on what this may be?

Re(1): 77 D sputtering

IP: 75.104.188.231 Posted on August 31, 2009 at 10:25:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Maybe it isn't getting enough fuel out of the fuel tank. Maybe something is obstructing the flow of fuel. Are the fuel filters o.k.? Is the cap on the fuel tank vented. It should be a vented cap. If all of these things check out, it may be that an exhaust valve may be sticking open for a bit. To check it, remove the valve cover and put some penetrating oil or light engine oil on the exhaust valve stems and see if that helps. Because 77 diesels have a habit of the valve stems running dry by not getting enough oil. Larry

Re(2): 77 D sputtering

IP: 74.205.199.160 Posted on September 3, 2009 at 02:14:27 PM by Eric

I bled the water trap on the tank, cleaned the sediment bowl, changed the fuel filter, cleaned the air cleaner, and she is running like a top. Thanks for your help.


1755 oliver

IP: 75.107.111.167 Posted on August 30, 2009 at 08:33:04 PM by Dan Broxterman

The chain coupler came off of my 1755 Oliver diesel. It broke a nearby cable that I believe came out of the transmission. After reinstalling the chain the tractor would not start. What is that cable? It is some sort of neutral linkage that keeps the tractor from showing it is in neutral so it wont start? Thanks for any information you can provide. Dan

Re(1): 1755 oliver

IP: 75.104.188.231 Posted on August 31, 2009 at 10:19:59 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 wires that go down to a neutral start safety switch in the transmission. It sounds like one of the wires or both of them were broken. Hook them back up. Larry


550 oliver clutch problem

IP: 216.105.214.241 Posted on August 30, 2009 at 03:37:02 PM by ron primeau

my 550 acts as if clutch is not disengaging. i split the tractor and found the two return springs laying in housing. i replaced springs and the throwout bearing moves forward and back about 1 1/2" clutch seamed fine put it back together adjusted clutch linkage but still acts as if its in gear. split tractor second time pulled clutch and checked on press seems to operate fine and pressure plate looks good put together and still never disengages clutch even when adjustment on linkage is bottomed out. looking for advice getting very discouraged.

Re(1): 550 oliver clutch problem

IP: 75.104.188.231 Posted on August 30, 2009 at 06:26:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be adjustment on the fingers and it also could be the little spring clips that hold the clutch lever to the pressure plate. There is a little clip that covers the adjuster to the fingers. Those little clips pull the pressure plate back when you release it. Larry


super55

IP: 71.244.129.24 Posted on August 25, 2009 at 03:16:43 PM by Ron Warren

Hi Larry, I am new to the oliver brand new to tractors all together.Bare with me. I have super 55 that will not start. I have replace the battery, starter ,on/ off switch ,postive cable and clean negative connection. I can start the tractor with a jump pack directly to the starter.The tracor dies when I take jump pack off. I have used a light meter to check to see if there is current to the starter from the battery and have check the negative side all looks good.Any ideals? plus do you know anyone that works on oliver in sunbury,ohio or near by .Thanks for your time I do apppreciate it very much.

Re(1): super55

IP: 75.104.183.116 Posted on August 25, 2009 at 10:32:03 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator"s Manual from Charles City. You can look at the wiring diagram. It will help you understand what you are trying to do. Phone :641-228-1099. Try Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934. Larry


oliver 1600 hydraulic pump

IP: 209.152.92.248 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 07:57:03 AM by mark

I have been looking though the internet for hydraulic pumps. They all have a note that says " If old hydraulic pump has a relief valve in the back housing of the pump. DO NOT USE!" My questions is does any of the 1600's use this relief valve in this spot?

Re(1): oliver 1600 hydraulic pump

IP: 4.249.102.240 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 04:12:38 PM by Larry from MD

If your tractor has the large plug for the relief on the outside then you don't have the pump one. I (larry from md.) have not seen a 1600 with the inner valve,but have seen some 1800's that way.

Re(2): oliver 1600 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 10:35:47 PM by Larry Harsin

That info is correct. To get a hydraulic pump like you need, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry


1650 Hydra Power Drive.

IP: 66.244.71.17 Posted on August 23, 2009 at 10:52:57 AM by Jim

I have a '66 1650, ser.no. 182 646 452 that has developed an oil leak where the oil collector ring passes thru the right side cover of the unit, just behind the filter where the flex hose elbow threads in. I'm losing about 1 qt. of ATF per hour. Is it likely the o ring or something else? Someone else thought that there isn't that much oil to leak around the o ring. Can the side cover be removed with out pulling the unit from the tractor? Thanks for any advise.

Re(1): 1650 Hydra Power Drive.

IP: 75.105.44.87 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 11:09:59 PM by Larry Harsin

There is an O ring at that point. But I'm afraid you have other problems causing this leakage. The unit will have to be removed from the tractor. I think probably the bearings on the output shaft need to be adjusted. Larry


880 diesel fuel problem

IP: 72.152.62.193 Posted on August 22, 2009 at 10:00:01 PM by charles rutland

my 880 cuts off like it is out of fuel i have changeg filters and lift pump but still have problem, I can work pump by hand it will run for a short time and cut off it ran fine about six weeks ago when I cut hay.Do you have any suggestions?

Re(1): 880 diesel fuel problem

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 10:32:12 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have a bad check valve in the lift pump, or the arm that works the diaphragm in the lift pump, might be defective and be the cause of the problem. If your lift pump needs to be reconditioned, you can send it to me and I can do this. Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334. Larry


1755 oliver transmission

IP: 74.127.145.15 Posted on August 22, 2009 at 03:22:30 PM by Brad

Larry, I have a 1755 oliver and seems as if the transmission locked up. When I am in the high range and let out the clutch it kills the tractor. When I am in the low range it does not kill the tractor. However the tractor will not move in either range. Has it slipped into two gears or is there possibly something else wrong? How difficult is it to fix this transmission?

Re(1): 1755 oliver transmission

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 10:27:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that your high/low cluster on the input shaft is where the problem is. You will have to take it apart. Get a Shop Manual from the museum in Charles City for instructions. The Museum phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1755 oliver transmission

IP: 74.127.145.15 Posted on August 26, 2009 at 08:15:49 PM by Brad

Larry, will it be necessary to split the tractor or can I access this by removing the cover on the floor boards?

Re(3): 1755 oliver transmission

IP: 75.105.44.87 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 11:25:39 PM by Larry Harsin

If the input has to be removed, you will either have to split the tractor or the engine and the hydraul will have to be removed from the tractor. I normally do the engine removal method. Larry


1655 diesel

IP: 144.29.129.16 Posted on August 22, 2009 at 03:03:17 PM by Cleon Coeuy

My hydraulic pump is leaking oil into the transmission.I fear it will take a new pump to fix. I can't repair right now due to time and money.Can I run a heavier gear oil to compensate for the hydraulic oil that is leaking into it as long as I keep the level drained down?

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 24, 2009 at 10:23:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't recommend running any heavier than 80 - 90. I would drain off the excess out of the level plug on the transmission housing. Larry


88 hp

IP: 70.100.6.101 Posted on August 19, 2009 at 05:41:53 PM by Randy Anderson

larry do you know the horse power of an oliver 88 standard 1950 model

Re(1): 88 hp

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 20, 2009 at 05:46:12 AM by Larry Harsin

It was originally built with 43 hp. Larry


1655 diesel

IP: 98.80.133.27 Posted on August 18, 2009 at 10:03:23 AM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I've got a rebuilt pump on a less than desirable compression tractor. Tractor starts fine. Runs good at low idle. At high rpm it has a noticeable stutter. I read on another board that I might adjust my high idle advance screw,(allen head screw at bottom of pump)when at high rpm and it will smooth out. What do you think? Any advice would appreciated.

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 18, 2009 at 10:10:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Try it and see. It might work. Larry


66 oliver rc

IP: 70.100.6.101 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 04:38:56 PM by Randy Anderson

i'm looking to rebuild thelower half of the motor this is my pulling tractor can i use the sleves and pistions out of a 77 or do you know of a big bore kit i can get and thanks for all the help larry

Re(1): 66 oliver rc

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 09:28:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can use the sleeves and pistons out of a 77. If you want to get a big bore kit, call Korves Bros. Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


1946 oliver 70

IP: 70.100.6.101 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 08:47:05 AM by Randy Anderson

i cant get the hub to slide on the axels i have tried everything but heat i dont want to break the cast iron hub or do you know where i can get another set of hubs

Re(1): 1946 oliver 70

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 09:26:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I have another set of hubs 712-362-2966. You'll have to heat the hub and use a puller to get it off. Larry

Re(2): 1946 oliver 70

IP: 72.198.216.18 Posted on August 18, 2009 at 07:30:25 AM by L Kruse

The hubs on my 70 took months to move. I wire brushed all of the groves to they almost shined. At the same time I kept applying rust blaster penetrating oil every other day. At the same time I would rotate the hub hitting the hub with a hammer on at least 4 different spots to vibrate the hub. Be careful not to drive the hub back on with too much force unless you have put a wedge on the inside end of the axle. You will be driving the force hard onto a bearing surface.


88 standard

IP: 70.100.6.101 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 08:41:59 AM by Randy Anderson

its a 1948 88 standard iwant to set the valvesi need the valve clearance and timing it i cant find a timing mark on the fly wheel is it there and im missing it or do you time that one different

Re(1): 88 standard

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 09:24:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The valve clearance is 10 & 18. Set it on top dead center number 1 and set it. Then, give it a third of a turn and set that one 5, then a third of a turn set 3, then a third of a turn and set 6, then another third set 2 and another third and set 4. Larry

Re(2): 88 standard

IP: 70.100.6.101 Posted on August 19, 2009 at 01:36:24 PM by Randy Anderson

Larry thank for all the help and could i get the fireing order and where is the timing mark is it on the fly wheel and again thanks

Re(3): 88 standard

IP: 75.104.168.110 Posted on August 20, 2009 at 09:15:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The timing mark is in the hole under the timing cover on the right side of the engine. Turn the engine till you see the marks on the fly wheel. With the engine idling, your timing light should flash between int. and tdc. At full throttle, the light should show ign. on the flywheel. We gave you the firing order above. 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. Larry


1655 diesel

IP: 98.80.136.110 Posted on August 16, 2009 at 09:55:48 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, Just had cylinder head and injection pump rebuilt. 3 new injectors,readjusted valves, pump timing is correct. On start up tractor runs a little rough but after about 10 minutes it smooths out. Problem is it has a lot of white or gray smoke. It smoked before because of lower compression but not like now.Could valve setting,new injectors or pump be the cause?

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 04:21:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Any of the 3 of those could be the cause. Larry


oliver super 55

IP: 66.82.162.19 Posted on August 16, 2009 at 05:37:41 AM by Doug Wardwell

I am wanting to sell my oliver super 55. it needs just a little bit of work. tune up, fuel bowl cracked. i no longer need it and hate to see it rust away

Re(1): oliver super 55

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 04:19:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Advertise it in the 2 Oliver Collector magazines. Oliver Heritage magazine www.Oliverinformation.com HPOCA magazine www.hartparroliver.org Larry


Oliver 880 not starting

IP: 209.172.21.123 Posted on August 15, 2009 at 08:42:49 PM by Nick Boerman

I have a 1958 oliver 880 gas that is not starting. It turns over like it should start but it won't. It is getting fuel, and spark. And compression is good except in #1 cylinder. I also have turned the distributor to adjust timing. Can you help me

Re(1): Oliver 880 not starting

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 15, 2009 at 10:33:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Do you have fresh fuel in it? If not, drain it out and put in fresh fuel. It should start. Try pulling it and getting it started. If it has been sitting around awhile, who knows what the problems might be. Sometimes after you get it started once, it will work. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 880 not starting

IP: 209.172.21.254 Posted on August 16, 2009 at 07:04:58 AM by Nick Boerman

I had it running although not very well two years ago, then the ignition switch and solenoid went out. I replaced them both and it is now doing what I described earlier. I tried towing it when the switch was bad, but I put fresh gas in now and it won't start using the starter.

Re(3): Oliver 880 not starting

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 17, 2009 at 04:16:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Try towing it with the new switch. You may call me if you wish. 712-362-2966 Larry


550 rear main seal

IP: 67.43.120.139 Posted on August 15, 2009 at 05:38:05 AM by Tom

Hi Larry, I am in the process of replacing the rear main seal on my 1958 550. Before I remove the clutch I would like to know how to align the clutch when replacing it. The local auto parts store has clutch alignment tools that are available for various cars. Are one of these available for my engine? If not, what are my options for aligning the clutch Re(1): 550 rear main seal

IP: 75.105.45.161 Posted on August 15, 2009 at 10:29:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Those automotive alignment tools will work for you. Choose the one that has the same size pilot as your pilot bearing. Larry


Oliver 70 rear rubber

IP: 208.81.199.16 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 08:39:57 AM by Lawrence Crawford

Larry, We have a 1937 Oliver 70 with 11x40 rear tires, which I read are very hard to find. They are really showing their age and will some day need replaced. Do you have any advice for tracking down a replacement set?

Re(1): Oliver 70 rear rubber

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 07:53:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You can talk to Miller Tire about that. They also have liners that you can put in those tires to make them last longer. www.millertire.com OR you could go to different hubs and wheels like the later 70's have and use 38" tires. Larry


Oliver Super 55

IP: 216.226.25.82 Posted on August 13, 2009 at 11:40:41 PM by Bob Tomlinson

I have a problem with the split pin in the pto hub and pto shaft breaking.In taking it apart again i found the splines on the shaft or inside the hub have worn and is letting the hub work back and forth(sideways)shearing the pin.Is there a fix outher than replacing the parts? I thought about welding them together, however this will cook the o ring and probley let it leak oil.Also thought about milling the holes in the hub oval to allow the splines to take the load and use the shaft to hold the pin in.Hopefully this would keep the shaft from sliding forward and letting the pto clutch disks come out of the spider.If this will not work do you know of a sorce for good parts?Also do you know of a sorce to get the needle bearings that the shaft runs in?

Re(1): Oliver Super 55

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 05:50:34 AM by Larry Harsin

This sounds a whole lot different than the ones I have worked on. I think maybe someone has improvised before. I think your hub should be threaded, so that you can put a set screw in there. There should be a lock that holds the set screw from backing out. So, this means that if what I think is true, you will have to get a different hub. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and discuss this with him. 800-320-6224. If you do need a different hub, you can check with Kent Gordon 903-729-8349. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Super 55

IP: 216.226.11.172 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 10:28:13 AM by Bob T

I probley didnt describe what I was asking about right.The hub is the rear one, on the rear of the pto shaft that goes through the last ball bearing,and is locked in place with a split pin per the IT manual.The front hub with the dog and set screw is ok

Re(3): Oliver Super 55

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 07:51:10 PM by Larry Harsin

That back hub is held in place with a spanner nut, on the ones that I have worked on. That spanner nut holds that hub back where it belongs. Did you call Tom? Larry


Oliver 70 Firing Order

IP: 69.129.14.120 Posted on August 9, 2009 at 02:19:18 AM by brian

i bought a 1948 oliver model 70 and i need the firing order for the plugs on the distubertor cap

Re(1): Oliver 70 Firing Order

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 13, 2009 at 06:45:42 PM by Larry Harsin

1 - 5- 3 - 6 - 2 - 4. Larry


1800 Hydraulic Unit

IP: 207.206.212.92 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 07:28:42 PM by Eric

Larry, I recently purchased a 1961 1800 diesel and was in the process of changing the hydraulic unit oil but I do not know what the previous owner was using so I plan on draining and refilling. The manual calls for SAE 10W engine oil and Oliver 102 082-A oil additive which I assume is no longer available so I was wondering what is a suitable alternative?

Re(1): 1800 Hydraulic Unit

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 13, 2009 at 06:15:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I use medium non-foaming hydraulic oil from my Farm Fleet store. It is the same as 20 weight motor oil. Larry


550 governor

IP: 70.125.84.189 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 12:31:48 PM by Gaston Tew

Will the governor of an early 550 gas fit on a later model 550.

Re(1): 550 governor

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 13, 2009 at 06:13:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It should. Larry


1850 governor

IP: 71.10.98.193 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 09:05:35 PM by jeremy

Hi Larry, I asked earlier about taking the governor off my 1850 gas. Ok, I have the governor housing off. The actual governor assembly stayed in the tractor. My problem is I can't get the shaft out of the governor cover. My goal is to replace the little bearing and seal that are leaking. This is the shaft that the linkages connect to. Do I have to pop out that little pin holding the levers to the shaft and tap the shaft through the opposite side of the housing? I removed that little pin, but the levers sure seem fused to the shaft. Then how do I get that little cap off on the opposite side of the governor? Thanks for any and all advice. I always appreciate your help

Re(1): 1850 governor

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:31:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Most of those come apart by unbolting the fork inside the governor housing. Then, just simply slide the shaft out of the housing. You are talking about the arm being pinned onto the shaft on the outside of the housing, is this correct? Larry

Re(2): 1850 governor

IP: 71.10.98.193 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 06:17:25 AM by jeremy

The arm is pinned to the shaft on the outside of the housing. I can't see anything that would be holding the shaft from sliding out. I tried prying with a screw driver, but it won't budge. I am out of ideas.

Re(3): 1850 governor

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 07:29:20 AM by Larry Harsin

That shaft WILL come out of there. Take out the 2 bolts that holds that fork in there and then that shaft will slide right out of there. If you can't get it, send it to me and I'll fix it for you. Email us if you need our address. Larry

Re(4): 1850 governor

IP: 71.10.98.193 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 07:51:32 AM by Jeremy

Ok, I'll keep trying. Thanks for the reply. If I can't get it, I'll take you up on it. I can't imagine what could possibly be holding it. Thanks Larry Re(5): 1850 governor

IP: 71.10.98.193 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 06:48:09 PM by jeremy

I figured it out today. The governor has a bearing with a snap ring holding it. I had to take the pin out of the lever and tap the shaft through the other side. My parts book doesn't even show bearings on each end. One more question. What does that fork push against once I put it back together. Should it be against that bearing on the governor? Thanks again for your help.

Re(6): 1850 governor

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 13, 2009 at 06:11:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, That fork works against the bearing. Larry


1655 diesel

IP: 98.67.63.94 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 07:54:53 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I think I've found my low oil pressure problem.Fuel leaking into the crankcase pretty good. Also found out I may have adjusted the valves incorrectly which is why I'm running rough and not turning enough rpms also contributing to my low oil pressure. I will try and reseal my pump shaft and readjust my valves this week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:28:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Also, does your tractor have a lift pump on the right side. If it does, it could have a bad diaphragm. Some of those tractors had them. That could be causing the fuel to get into the crankcase. Larry


Proper procedure to engage PTO on a 1365

IP: 15.251.201.73 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 07:24:25 PM by John Moorhead

At the risk of a few chuckles, I'd like to verify the proper procedure to engage the PTO for 540 engine speed operation on my 2-wheel drive Oliver 1365. I've been doing the following:

1) depress engine clutch pedal
2) lift PTO clutch lever up
3) shift PTO engage lever left
4) slowly bring PTO clutch lever down to engage
5) lift up on engine clutch

My problem is that no matter how long I wait between steps 2 and 3, when I shift the PTO lever to engaged position, there is a lot of gear grinding. With enough pressure on the lever the gears will engage, but it appears that the main gear is spinning at such a rate that it would take a very long time to slow down to a stop (if at all) to safely engage the PTO. Am I using the wrong sequence?

Re(1): Proper procedure to engage PTO on a 1365

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:24:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to shut the engine off, to engage it without grinding gears. There should be a procedure outlined in the Operator's Manual. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you need to get one. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City Iowa. 641-228-1099. It will tell you a lot about your tractor. We enjoyed your message on our Guest Book. We know the Bechtolds. They are fine people. Larry

Re(2): Proper procedure to engage PTO on a 1365

IP: 69.62.226.60 Posted on August 12, 2009 at 10:44:29 PM by John Moorhead

I have the manual, and as far as it goes, I'm following the prodedure, but IMHO it is rather unclear. I'm wondering if I really need to disengage the engine clutch first. Maybe by not doing that there would be enough friction drag through the engine clutch and rear end shaft/gearing that the main PTO gear would not spin and thus it would not grind when I shift the PTO in. I've hesitated to do that up till now. Kind of a pain to actually shut the unit down just to shift the PTO in.

Bill Sr. has had several bouts of pnumonia lately and is slowing way down, but we still see him at our technical meetings and he shows up at a few events. Many of our members are 60+ and several are in ill health. I'm actually having a lot of medical issues too and I'm one of the younger club members at 56. Great talking to you; I really enjoy reading your column in the national magazine. Look for our fall 2008 technical seminar on Cletrac track rollers in the September issue - Chris needed some filler info and it is a compliment when he tells us our articles are good stuff. Take care and happy tractoring!

Re(3): Proper procedure to engage PTO on a 1365

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 14, 2009 at 05:56:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I really don't know a lot about how the 1365 operates. They just weren't sold around here. Thanks for the update on Bill Sr. We think about them often when we go to Oliver shows. Larry


Oliver 66 rowcrop rear wheels

IP: 66.159.124.19 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 12:05:01 PM by Neil Craig

Hi Larry- I have a 1953 oliver row crop 66 . /the rear wheels are 11.2-38 on a 10" rim. The rims are pressed steel as is the disc. The rims are corroded at the valve stem. Can you buy new rims only and cut the old ones off the discs? My parts book shows them as an assembly 1MS-705-A Disc and rim assembly.

Re(1): Oliver 66 rowcrop rear wheels

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:19:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Bernard Neilsen, He is an expert at re-rimming tractor wheels. 712-867-4796. Larry


1650 Hydraulics

IP: 129.176.151.14 Posted on August 10, 2009 at 11:47:05 PM by Joel Goodman

I have a 1968 1650 gas. The hydraulics seem week especially after the tractor warms up. Ive been told by the local mechanic I need to replace the pump. Is there a manual out there that could walk a rooky like me through something like that or would I be in over my head? Im not the most mechanically inclined LOL.

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 05:50:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd recommend that you take it to a mechanic and have it done. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. But, I think I'd have a mechanic do it. Larry


1655 diesel

IP: 98.67.58.47 Posted on August 10, 2009 at 07:32:19 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, Just had the head rebuilt. Hot tanked, new valve seats and guides.New head gasket. Also had fuel pump rebuilt. and I double checked the timing. Now the tractor runs rough and seems to have less power. Also the oil pressure used to be 30psi when hot now its 15psi. What do you think?

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 05:47:32 AM by Larry Harsin

The things that you have done so far, would not affect the oil pressure. You should pull the fan and check the bearing clearances. Also, check and make sure the intake screen on the oil pump is clean. Larry

Re(2): 1655 diesel

IP: 98.67.63.94 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 06:25:58 AM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I just installed new mains and rod bearings in January. Oil pressure was dropping off sharply before but afterward it would hold 30psi when hot. Is the crankshaft worn out?

Re(3): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:16:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the crank is worn out, necessarily. Check the pressure regulator valve for the engine. There is a pressure regulator right on the pump itself, you should check. Something is affecting the oil pressure. You'll have to keep checking to see what it is. Larry


hydraulic relief elbow.

IP: 4.249.108.177 Posted on August 10, 2009 at 10:35:41 AM by Larry from MD

I am replaceing the pump in my 1850 and looking at the relief elbow it has a P H emblom on it. I am guessing it has been replaced at some time as i seem to remember the factory ones haveing no markings. Do you know how the old ones that break are marked if any? I have looked at the other units i have out and all the elbows are gone.

Re(1): hydraulic relief elbow.

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 05:44:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The ones that tend to break are the iron pipe elbows. Your AGCO Dealer can furnish you with a steel elbow that is stronger. I think the PH is just a manufacturers mark. If it isn't a steel elbow, I'd replace it. Larry


oliver 60 timing

IP: 96.233.255.147 Posted on August 9, 2009 at 01:12:25 PM by dave shagla

just rebuild a oliver 60 engine 122cu in appears I might have wrong timing marks there are two sets on cam which do I use Iused the one with the c on it I set distribitor on top dead center but timing light shows mag on flywheel instead of tdc engine runs rough and flat thank you

Re(1): oliver 60 timing

IP: 75.104.161.116 Posted on August 10, 2009 at 06:08:13 AM by Larry Harsin

On the cam and the crankshaft gear, you line up the C marks. Larry


880 injection pump

IP: 74.206.45.107 Posted on August 8, 2009 at 04:05:41 PM by bob

Will an 880 injection pump fit a super 99 6 cyl diesel.

Re(1): 880 injection pump

IP: 75.104.182.211 Posted on August 8, 2009 at 07:29:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will work. Larry


Oliver Tractor -- year made

IP: 207.200.116.11 Posted on August 7, 2009 at 09:03:22 PM by Paul

I have an super 880 Oliver Tractor, bought in mid 70s in Clovis, NM I parked it 20 years ago and have not started or moved it since. I have been searching web sites for the model and serial number, but nothing comes close to the model and serial number that is still readable on the Oliver silver plate below the gage panel and in front of the steering wheel. It is a super 880 green Oliver Propane tractor, RowCrop with power steering, 6 cyl, only one exhaust pipe on top and a curved white grill with the word "Oliver" spelled diagonally down the front of the grill and the number 88 below the grill. Model # on the plate is: 28-0091 Serial # on the plate is: 49-542-801 Can you tell me the year this Oliver was made??? There is a picture on the home page of Korvesoliver.com web site that looks just like it except the two front (rowcrop) wheels are extended a little father out in front. Of course mine has rust and not in as good shape as it is. Should I replace the propane tank before I try to start or repair this?

Re(1): Oliver Tractor -- year made

IP: 75.104.161.108 Posted on August 7, 2009 at 10:45:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Your S88 was built in 1957. I would think that your propane tank would be o.k., so that you could start the tractor. The person that fills it with LP will know if it would hold the fuel or not. Before you start it, I'd remove the valve cover and put some penetrating oil on the valve stems, and tap on them with a small hammer and make sure they aren't stuck. I'd remove the spark plugs and squirt a tsp. of light motor oil in the hole of each plug and then put them back in. Then, try to start the tractor. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Tractor -- year made

IP: 207.200.116.137 Posted on August 8, 2009 at 11:34:37 AM by Paul

Larry, thank you for your response as it is very much appreciated!! I will use your suggestions. I was also told if there is a small metal hump under the seat it designates that it is a super 88------is this correect? Thanks for this great web site! Paul

Re(3): Oliver Tractor -- year made

IP: 75.104.182.211 Posted on August 8, 2009 at 07:27:53 PM by Larry Harsin

All of the 88's have the hump that you are describing. The serial number and your description of the tractor told me it was a Super 88. Larry


1850 governor

IP: 68.112.150.20 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 06:58:56 PM by jeremy

Hi Larry, I talked to you in April about putting the seal and bearing in the governor on my gas 1850. Well I'm finally getting around to it. When I pull the governor housing off the timing cover, do I have to worry about losing that thrust washer (Part # 1k-289)? Can it fall into the timing cover? Or when I unbolt it, will everything come out together? As always thanks for all of your help.

Re(1): 1850 governor

IP: 75.104.161.108 Posted on August 7, 2009 at 06:21:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 1850 will probably not have a thrust washer. It will probably have the new style bushing. If it does have the older style washer, it is not the end of the world if it drops down in there. Larry


770 gas

IP: 69.171.166.83 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 09:01:07 PM by Mark

i have a oliver 770 gas, the motor is stuck had about 4 oz. of water in one cylinder from the exhuast stack being open.I used a turkey baster and remove the water,is their a way too free the motor without taking it apart. I was told to try brake fluid, but I was leaning on trying transmission fluid first

Re(1): 770 gas

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 05:01:23 AM by Don

diesel fuel and atf mixed works well.

Re(2): 770 gas

IP: 69.171.166.174 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 02:57:00 PM by mark

I will try that. thanks for the info

Re(3): 770 gas

IP: 69.208.13.145 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 09:13:00 PM by Terry Allen

Saw a product advertised in Oliver Heritage for this problem. WWW.enginerelease.com

Re(4): 770 gas

IP: 75.104.161.108 Posted on August 7, 2009 at 06:09:58 AM by Larry Harsin

What I usually find when I get an engine that has been neglected like that, is that it needs to be torn down anyway. Nine times out of 10 the rings are stuck and the valves need to be ground, so I usually tear it down and go from there. Larry


550 diesel

IP: 66.44.249.17 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 06:33:23 PM by david carter

purchased a 59 550 diesel ran it for about a hour with mowing machine tractor acted like it was choking and started to knock before cutting off will not restart. where should i start looking for the problem?

Re(1): 550 diesel

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 08:35:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Can you turn the engine by hand? Possibly you spun a bearing in the engine?? It's not a good sign when they pull down like that. Larry


1550

IP: 198.68.16.40 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 07:25:29 AM by bill

larry,have to replace steering column (splines bad) any suggestions thanks,bill

Re(1): 1550

IP: 4.248.223.221 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 12:23:01 PM by Larry from MD

Drill a hole through both parts and rivet in a pin.

Re(2): 1550

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 08:33:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a splined column. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You could try what Larry from MD suggests. It would be worth a try. Larry


lost steering

IP: 204.191.232.163 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 00:54:29 AM by roy schulze

I have a 1650 and have lost the ability to steer it. Checked pressure at flow divider and it seems okay. Steering wheel turns eaily but wheels don't turn. If front tires are raised off the ground wheels will turn slowly and erattically. When driving tractor back to shop the front wheels would turn when a small hole or rock was struck by wheels and we would have to raise wheels off the ground to correcr direction. I suspect the hydra-motor has fialed. How does one go about testing the hydra-motor and are they rebuildable or does it have to be replaced. Can you advise of possible suppliers for these parts. Thanks Roy

Re(1): lost steering

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 06:02:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I am suspecting that your hydra-motor has failed. If you have tested your pressure and your hydra-motor doesn't work, you can say it needs to be replaced. If you jack the tractor up and try to turn the wheels with a bar, you can get some indication of where the problem is, (You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels when the blocking valve is in the up position) the oil is normally trapped from the hydra-motor to the wheels, until you turn the hydra-motor. There is a blocking valve on the hydra-motor where you can change it from lock to unlock. Possibly this is what is wrong, but I doubt it. This is all explained in the Operator's Manual. You can possibly get a used hydra-motor from a salvage yard. I think you can get a new one from AGCO. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry

Re(2): lost steering

IP: 204.191.232.163 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 09:17:23 AM by roy schulze

The service manual I have only notes r&r of blocking spool with hydra-motor unit removed from tractor. When wheels are in the air wheels can be turned by pushig on side of tires. Does this mean blocking valve is in the wrong position? How would I check the postion of teh blocking valve?

Re(3): lost steering

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 08:29:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The blocking valve is probably in the wrong position, When the blocking valve is up, you shouldn't be able to move the wheels by pushing on them. Now, if the blocking valve is in the correct position and you can still move the wheels, the problem could be in the steering cylinder. However, it is not very often that the problem is in the steering cylinder. Larry


1655 fuel gauge

IP: 144.29.1.15 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 08:29:56 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, Fuel gauge was not working.Grounded the sender wire to test it. Gauge read full. Bad sender right? Installed new sender now gauge reads full with half tank. What's wrong?

Re(1): 1655 fuel gauge

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 05:43:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like the sender isn't working right. You may have to adjust the float setting on the sender. Larry


oneway cylinder

IP: 173.87.221.53 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 07:40:39 PM by ronnie dewitte

oliver 77 how to plumb for oneway cylinder

Re(1): oneway cylinder

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 05:41:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I need to know what series unit you have on your tractor. Is it a series 2 like the late Fleetlines or a series 3 like the Supers? Larry

Re(2): oneway cylinder

IP: 69.197.126.4 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 10:40:58 AM by ronnie

how do i tell what pump i have

Re(3): oneway cylinder

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 05:30:34 AM by Larry Harsin

What I need to know is if it is a series 3. A series 3 has the levers coming out of the top of the unit, instead of off of the sides of the unit. Larry

Re(4): oneway cylinder

IP: 173.87.221.53 Posted on August 8, 2009 at 06:21:15 AM by ronnie

series 3

Re(5): oneway cylinder

IP: 75.104.161.111 Posted on August 11, 2009 at 10:43:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use the left side of the unit. The cast iron swivel that has an adjustable restrictor, would be plumbed into the drain on the unit. You will have to remove the adjuster by unscrewing the end off of that swivel and removing the pin that holds the spring and plunger, and installing a momentary restrictor. This consists of 2 pieces: K2114 and K2115 Spring and Plunger (available from AGCO). Install them in place of the other stuff you've removed. When installing, screw the adjuster all the way in and then back it out 2 turns for the initial adjustment. Doing it this way, you will push the lever down to cause the cylinder to extend. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1800 power beyond

IP: 32.129.59.161 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 11:19:41 AM by Larry

Mr. Harsin, I have a '63 1800B with a loader on it currently being powered by a PTO driven pump. The tractors hydraulics seem to be fine, running power steering and the 3 point fine. How do I convert to "power beyond" for the loader in order to regain use of the PTO for other equipment?

Re(1): 1800 power beyond

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 12:27:53 PM by Larry Harsin

If your flow divider is on the front of the hydraulic unit, you'll have to remove the flow divider so that you can get at the 1/2" pipe plug and remove it. Then, check inside the passage a ways and find a 3/8" pipe thread, put a 3/8" socket head, pipe plug in that opening to block it. There should be another 1/2" pipe plug along that passage, pointing out toward the fender, this is where you can hook the hose into, to feed the oil to the valve. After you get the oil to the valve, you have to find a way to get the oil back into the tractor. It should be a pipe plug someplace to the rear of where you blocked that passage. Larry


1650 oil leak

IP: 72.251.63.145 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 07:13:44 AM by corey

the rear seal on motor has giving me trouble I put a sleeve on crank with helped for a little while but leaking again i think worse is there something I could be missing or just something that was comin with the diesels with energy cells

Re(1): 1650 oil leak

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 12:15:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I wonder how good your main bearings are. They may be loose and causing the seal to fail. Larry

Re(2): 1650 oil leak

IP: 72.251.63.135 Posted on August 6, 2009 at 06:16:55 AM by correy

the motor has about 900 hours on inframe overhaul but had lots of troubles with rebuilt job it went back to repair shop many times would you pull the crank or just drop pan and take a spot check on mains Thanks for help Re(3): 1650 oil leak

IP: 75.104.161.108 Posted on August 7, 2009 at 06:34:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd just drop the pan and check the mains. Look at the condition of the crank. Larry


head gasket

IP: 98.80.135.60 Posted on August 3, 2009 at 09:48:11 PM by Cleon Couey

I'm installing new head gasket on 1655 diesel. Do I need to put some sealer/adhesive/lubricant on or under the gasket? If so what?

Re(1): head gasket

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 05:49:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I normally don't use anything unless the instructions with the gasket or the Shop manual say to. One thing I do recommend is to start the engine and let it run a bit to warm it up, and then retorque it. Larry


1600 shift problem

IP: 67.142.130.43 Posted on August 2, 2009 at 11:44:43 PM by Wallace

I am looking at an Oliver 1600 gas tractor with over/under that is for sale. The gears on the right side of the shift pattern work ok (R1, R2, 2, 4), but it is hard (or impossible) to shift into the gears on the left side (1, 3, 5, 6) and it won't stay in any of those gears. The shift lever jumps back to neutral after you let the clutch out. Does this sound like an easy (cheap) fix or a difficult (expensive) fix?

Re(1): 1600 shift problem

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 3, 2009 at 06:30:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't buy that tractor until I found out what is wrong with it. That could be a serious problem. You'll have to look down in there and see if there is something broken or bent in there. There could be bad bearings on the input shaft or the cluster on the input shaft could be bad. Larry

Re(2): 1600 shift problem

IP: 67.142.130.31 Posted on August 3, 2009 at 09:24:07 AM by Wallace

Thanks for your prompt reply. I think I'll stick with my 770. Its only drawback is no 3-point. Are aftermarket 3-points fairly straightforward to install on a 770?

Re(3): 1600 shift problem

IP: 75.104.183.194 Posted on August 3, 2009 at 06:17:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Aftermarket 3 pts. are easy to install. If you need one, Saginaw County Tractor Parts is a good source. 810-638-5787. They make them. Larry


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