Voltage regulator cut out assembly

IP: 24.13.10.64 Posted on August 31, 2010 at 09:06:35 PM by John

Hi Larry, I took the generator off my Oliver 70 to a local shop to get looked over and repaired. they told me the cut out was bad. I can find them for around $30. I found one at Oliverparts.com for around $90 that is stated to be "new old stock". Will the cheaper one do what I need or should I get the higher one? Or any other ideas? Thanks!

Re(1): Voltage regulator cut out assembly

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on September 1, 2010 at 07:30:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd go with the cheaper one. Larry

1650 Gas Transmission

IP: 173.20.47.23 Posted on August 29, 2010 at 11:16:04 PM by Chuck

Engine running. When depressing the clutch to shift from any gear to neutral the shift lever has to be forced out of gear into neutral. During this shifting process, the rear wheels do not seem to want to roll (coast) until the gear lever is in neutral and then the rear wheels will roll once again. The clutch seems to depress and disengage in a normal manner. Thanks for your input! Chuck

Re(1): 1650 Gas Transmission

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 07:19:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any ideas on this. Larry

Re(1): 1650 Gas Transmission

IP: 69.26.9.162 Posted on September 1, 2010 at 10:45:19 PM by Bill Wagner

I just had the same problem with my 1650 and I had to lengthen the clutch adjusting rod a bit - now it's fine.

Re(2): 1650 Gas Transmission

IP: 4.248.218.136 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 11:16:05 AM by Larry from MD

Do you have the 2 speed in low? In high things bindup. You want to shift right before the tractor stops moveing the last little bit.

1550 shifter

IP: 71.164.122.240 Posted on August 28, 2010 at 08:23:04 PM by robert lapage

HI Larry!! WEll about a month ago I asked you about an eldow that broke for the hydrolic lift arm. We did manage to get that fixed, however when we put things back together we did not have the shifter in the proper spot. We only have one set of gears. Can I fix this without taking everthing back off. Thru the shifter hole? And what will I be looking for. We have the high range gears... Thanks again,,,

Re(1): 1550 shifter

IP: 4.248.220.187 Posted on August 28, 2010 at 08:56:45 PM by Larry from MD

Yes you can fix it by removeing the shifter lever. Just use a long screwdriver to rearange the rails inside so the lever can go in correctly.

Re(2): 1550 shifter

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 07:01:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Larry from MD. Larry

880 oil pressure light ?

IP: 67.221.204.245 Posted on August 28, 2010 at 07:04:52 PM by Jason Epperson

Hi Larry. How's it going? I've got a question about the oil light on our 880 gas. When you turn the key on nothing happens. No light or buzzer. Where do I start? How do I go about checking the sending unit and the buzzer? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 880 oil pressure light ?

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 07:00:34 AM by Larry Harsin

There could be a wire disconnected or a bad bulb or the buzzer is bad. Could be a defective sending unit. Check it out. Larry

water pump

IP: 72.69.109.210 Posted on August 28, 2010 at 11:40:16 AM by Frank

I am still having a problem with the waterpump on my 1800-B Oliver gas tractor! 4th. pump lasted about 8 hours. What can be wrong? No pressure on radiator, not getting hot just blows out the seal on the pump shaft. Orignal pump had been on tractor for 40 years, now I can't get one to last a day? I am desperate, any ideas at all will be appreciated! Thank you!

Re(1): water pump

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 06:56:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd put on a completely different pump and see what happens. Larry

1850 4th Gear Grind

IP: 66.43.223.121 Posted on August 27, 2010 at 01:36:44 PM by chris

I've got a 1967 1850 diesel that I use regularly. 4th gear is the gear I use for much of its work. Recently I noticed when I was using my large round baler, I would let out the clutch running in 4th under, direct or over and while running the tractor around 18000rpm every once in a while the tractor sounded like the gears were grinding. It was pretty loud and not the low grind like gear mesh when trying to pull it into gear, but a high pitch grind like small gears not meshing. When it would happen the sound would startle me and I'd push the clutch back in real quick. Then I'd let it out and it would run normally with no grind. It happened intermittently so I stopped using 4th. Any ideas? I had it into Obrien imp and they couldn't reproduce the issue. I couldn't either by standing on the breaks etc and letting off the clutch in 4th when I got it back. Any ideas what to look for? Also, the grinding only happens when starting off and letting out the clutch. Never when just running.

Re(2): 1850 4th Gear Grind

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 06:54:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Boy! I don't know either. Hope they can figure it out. Larry

Re(3): 1850 4th Gear Grind

IP: 66.43.223.121 Posted on August 30, 2010 at 02:37:48 PM by Chris

No dice. Guess I have to use it and try to figure it out as I go.

Re(1): 1850 4th Gear Grind

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 10:36:08 AM by Chris Chewning

My White does the same thing in 6th gear and now its started in reverse. I fixed it once and it was a lubrication line off of the input shaft oil collector under the top cover. But that only lasted for 6 months now I gotta see if another line has blown. Seems pretty random I was shocked when that fixed it.

1850 oliver diesel

IP: 75.221.116.180 Posted on August 25, 2010 at 08:55:27 PM by bob

have a 1850 diesel it had not ben used for a long time it idles fine when u give it throttle it sputters and misses changed all filters,put good fuel in it, any good pointers thank you

Re(1): 1850 oliver diesel

IP: 75.104.161.42 Posted on August 25, 2010 at 11:06:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The best thing you can do is put it to work. Maybe put some fuel additive in the fuel. Fuel conditioner from your fuel man. I havn't used it, but Sea Foam is one. Stanadyne is another one. Larry

Re(1): 1850 oliver diesel

IP: 12.52.88.13 Posted on August 28, 2010 at 04:17:44 PM by rwskinner

Coffee Grinds in the injector pump from a bad coupling?

Another 1650D question

IP: 12.52.88.13 Posted on August 23, 2010 at 06:04:37 AM by Richard

I need to re-seal a few items and now is a good time to do it (Engine out). I'm about to pull the top off the hydraulics so I can replace the seals for the upper and lower 3 point arms. I'm also about to remove the PTO Assembly off the back end so I can reseal the lower PTO output shaft (Both, the inner and outer seal). Is there anything to watch out for while in here or anything else special I might want to look at? I plan to take a good look at the separator plate really well. Coupler Chain. I have the Hydropower on mine. Many sites list the coupler chain for tractors w/o hydropower and some do not say anything about hydropower. Is there really a difference in that coupler chain for with or without the HyrdoPower?

Re(1): Another 1650D question

IP: 75.104.168.205 Posted on August 23, 2010 at 01:23:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The coupler chain is larger in the hydra power than in one without hydra power. I think you have the spots covered in what else to look for. Larry

1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 12.52.88.13 Posted on August 21, 2010 at 04:53:01 PM by Richard

I installed a clutch and pressure plate in my 1650D last year and had some trouble getting the correct parts. When I finally got what appreared to be the right parts, I assembled my clutch and pressure plate. I run the heavy duty 4 metalic pad clutch disc. My clutch release fingers on the pressure plate would bottom out before I even tighten the pressure plate bolts down. Oliver dealer here told me the process on adjusting the fingers. I did that and assembled it. I ran fine for several months but in the last week, my clutch was not disengaging the tranny. I pulled the engine this morning and one of the fingers was all the way in, while the other two were out like normal. I have to see what is the problem is. Do you have any suggestions on what to look for or adjust. I hate to put this pressure plate back in and then do this job again.

Re(1): 1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 4.248.223.136 Posted on August 21, 2010 at 07:05:12 PM by Larry from MD

Assuming the nut didn't back out on you,the thing that cracks is that funny looking piece the finger hooks onto. When it cracks or breaks the clutch will drag and the finger is too low.

Re(2): 1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 75.104.168.205 Posted on August 22, 2010 at 07:59:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I understand what you are fighting there and it's just my opinion, but when they rebuild these pressure plates, I think they install heavier springs. Sometimes it causes a failure like you have encountered. I'm assuming it is a rebuilt plate, of course. And If so, I would get in contact with where you bought the plate and go back to the rebuilder with this problem. I have had this problem myself, in my own shop and had problems with the 3 finger rebuilt pressure plates such as you have encountered. What I've had happen is either the bolt breaks or the linkage on the finger breaks and then you have the mess. So, see what your supplier says. Personally, if it is possible to buy a new original equipment plate I would prefer that. (AGCO) Larry

Re(3): 1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 12.52.88.13 Posted on August 24, 2010 at 07:03:23 PM by rwskinner

The only damage I found was a broken strut, it's the little steel piece under the lever. I'm trying to see if Tom has 3 new eye bolts, struts, and levers. I really only need the struts, but since this is under a lot of pressure now is the time to replace them. Is there a problem with running that Metallic 4 pad button clutch with a flat flywheel? I've worked on this tractor for years and that is what always has been in there. Most folks say the step flywheel is a must if running that button clutch. I can go back with a fiber if it becomes more reliable. I do not want to warranty this job !!

Re(4): 1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 75.104.161.42 Posted on August 25, 2010 at 07:22:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd leave the metallic clutch in there and do exactly what you are doing. You can run a metal clutch in a flywheel that is flat or stepped, either way. Larry

Re(5): 1650D Pressure Plate

IP: 4.248.216.147 Posted on August 25, 2010 at 06:07:43 PM by Larry from MD

Well going back to your first post, maybe you needed washers. The last button clutch i got had a set of washers with it and you used them between the plate and flywheel if you had the flat flywheel. If you had the step you left them out.

oliver 1850

IP: 69.168.114.4 Posted on August 21, 2010 at 12:22:52 PM by Siegfried

my oliver is leaking a lot of H-oil and it is droping to the ground from the 4 wheel drive transfer box; where is it coming from?No oil loss in hydra drive, oil loss in reservoir under seat. how difficult is it to fix? thanks Siegfried

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 75.104.168.205 Posted on August 22, 2010 at 07:06:32 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are leaking hydraulic oil in that area, it is probably a ruptured steering line in that area. Larry

2 speed

IP: 173.89.14.25 Posted on August 20, 2010 at 09:49:52 PM by scott

Is it typical for the two speed to freewheel in low down hills?

Re(1): 2 speed

IP: 4.248.216.140 Posted on August 21, 2010 at 11:42:24 AM by Larry from MD

Yes thats how they are made.

Re(2): 2 speed

IP: 75.104.168.205 Posted on August 22, 2010 at 08:01:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. As Larry from MD says, that's the way they are made. Larry

1855 mfwd

IP: 173.213.180.237 Posted on August 18, 2010 at 07:52:31 PM by Dennis

Can you give me an idea what the overall height would be for an 1855 MFWD with a cab? Thanks

Re(1): 1855 mfwd

IP: 75.105.52.129 Posted on August 18, 2010 at 10:52:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Actually, it is about the same as a 2 wheel drive. Approx 9' to the top of the exhaust pipe. It won't be more than that. Larry

550 fluids

IP: 75.60.195.205 Posted on August 16, 2010 at 08:03:18 PM by Greg

I recently obtained a 550 oliver and would like to know your recommendations for hydraulic oil, transmission fluid and engine oil. Also does the transmission and hydraulic system shair the same fluid? Another question. What filter would I need for the hydraulics, and is there a filter for the transmission? Where could I get the hydraulic filter?

Re(2): 550 fluids

IP: 75.105.52.129 Posted on August 18, 2010 at 10:44:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Use med non-foaming hydraulic oil. They don't share the same oil. Get a hydraulic filter for a 550 from O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. There isn't a filter for the transmission. Use 80-90 transmission oil in the rear end. Larry

550 Oliver

IP: 72.21.232.23 Posted on August 14, 2010 at 04:07:57 PM by Mike Miller

My 550 gas has a stalling problem. It starts fine and can run normally for 30-45 minutes but then it tries to stall out. If I step on the clutch and pump the throttle a couple of times, I can keep it from stalling. But, once the stalling starts, it tries to do it every 2-3 minutes. I am using fresh gas, and have put Sea Foam in it twice. I've also tried another gas cap in case the first one wasn't venting properly. I used to have a 1550 that also would stall out. I replaced the coil and that fixed the problem. I tried a new coil on my 550, put the problem persists. It does burn some oil but only about a quart per 50 hours of operation. The tractor is only used 30-50 hours per year and almost all of that is for mowing at a constant 1600 rpms. I would appreciate any advice you could give me.

Re(1): 550 Oliver

IP: 75.105.52.129 Posted on August 16, 2010 at 06:41:24 AM by Larry Harsin

It might be that it needs a new set of points. Sometimes a new set of points will fix a problem like that. Larry

Re(2): 550 Oliver

IP: 72.21.232.23 Posted on August 18, 2010 at 12:58:44 PM by Mike Miller

The new set of points seems to have solved the problem. Thanks for the tip!

880

IP: 173.85.56.104 Posted on August 14, 2010 at 02:20:57 PM by hunter

Does any one have any info. on a oliver 880 diesel with a backwards transmission pattern its serial # is 75 275 873 if so please email me thanks

Re(1): 880

IP: 75.104.169.242 Posted on August 14, 2010 at 09:39:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It is an Industrial transmission. Fifth and 6th are faster gears, the others are like a regular transmission. Larry

Oliver 550 questions

IP: 199.150.177.28 Posted on August 13, 2010 at 02:32:59 PM by Gleanerguy

Larry - My neighbor has a 550 Oliver tractor. I have two questions. Question #1 - He wants to put a regular swinging drawbar on it. Right now he uses the drawbar that you put in the three point arms. Can this be done? It doesn't look like there's much under there to bolt on to. Question #2 The tractor has a Ford industrial loader on it with a front mounted pump setup. The loader goes up and down way too fast. Is there some type of flow restrictor that could be installed in the line(s) to slow the hydraulics down?

Re(1): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 4.248.222.142 Posted on August 13, 2010 at 06:09:31 PM by Larry from MD

Will the loader lift weight? If not I would suspect that there is a miss matched hydraulic system. In this case he could have a low pressure pump hooked to a high pressure loader.

Re(2): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 173.162.247.206 Posted on August 13, 2010 at 06:20:25 PM by L Kruse

There is a set of mounting brackets that will allow you to mount a typical Oliver swinging drawbar. For the 550 it is a plate with "ears" on both ends and it bolts up under the rear housing. Check underneath and you should see the 5/8 " bolt holes. I had to search some, but I was able to find both the bracket and the drawbar.

Re(3): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 75.104.169.242 Posted on August 14, 2010 at 07:52:37 AM by Larry Harsin

For the bolt on drawbar assembly and bracket, call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX 903-729-8349. I feel the problem with the loader may be as Larry from Maryland says. I don't know a solution. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 68.234.64.158 Posted on August 15, 2010 at 01:02:28 PM by Gleanerguy

Yes, the loader will lift weight with no problem. It's just so fast that it makes the whole tractor "jump".

Re(5): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 75.105.52.129 Posted on August 16, 2010 at 06:44:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with the suggestion that the pump isn't matched up with the loader. If you try to choke it down, you will have hot oil. So... I would put on a pump that pumps less gallons per minute. Larry

Re(6): Oliver 550 questions

IP: 199.150.177.28 Posted on August 16, 2010 at 11:02:25 AM by Gleanerguy

Thanks Larry. That sounds logical to me. I will relay the message.

1755 temp lite

IP: 99.108.183.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 01:52:08 PM by Tom

I have a 1755 that the hydraulic temp lite keeps lighting up from dim to bright. Fluid level is full and it comes on after the first 5 minutes or so,any ideas?

Re(1): 1755 temp lite

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 09:15:51 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is check the pressure at the hydraulic cylinder outlet. The pressure should read about 2200 lbs. This pressure is set at the compensating valve out on the end of the hydraulic pump. It points forward. Another thing, is the relief valve in the main valve body below the pump. There are 3 parts to this valve and the part I am talking about is the one closest to the wheel. To check this one out, leave your pressure gauge in the hydraulic outlet we first described, and with the tractor running at 1500 rpm, turn the compensating valve in to increase the pressure to make this valve by-pass. We would like to have 2900 lbs. here. After you achieve this pressure by adding shims if needed, then, back the pressure off on the compensating valve to the spec. we first mentioned. If the thing still heats, try to determine where the heat is being generated by feeling the lines and working from this angle. Good luck! Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.63.14 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 09:39:03 AM by corre k

Larry just whated to thank you for your help with my energy cell trouble I found used ones and it runs much better no more miss thanks again Corre

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 09:02:38 PM by Larry Harsin

You're welcome! Glad we could help. Larry

hydra shift

IP: 98.23.21.71 Posted on August 11, 2010 at 01:01:33 PM by chris

i have a 1850 diesel the hydra shift will not go into high side then u may just back up or be driving and it'll shift and hold good with no slipage u may shift it to low side or shut off the tractor and it will not go back in at all any ideas? also i know the hydra shift is suppposed to use type A transmission fluid is this absolutely necessary or can i use a newer type such as TYPE F or TYPE FA thanks any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): hydra shift

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 07:13:46 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the regulator valve is sticking. I'd change the fluid and use Mercon fluid or that universal tractor fluid that you find in fleet stores or parts stores. I'd also put in a new filter. Larry

Re(2): hydra shift

IP: 4.248.222.48 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 07:54:13 AM by Larry from MD

The pressure relief valve can be removed and cleaned while the unit is in the tractor. I would do that also. The springs and plungers are under the plugs pointing to the rear of the unit on the top right side.

1655 oil cooler

IP: 98.80.188.79 Posted on August 10, 2010 at 05:29:59 PM by Cleon Couey

I am installing a factory add on oil cooler from a 1855 on my 1655. Where do the water lines to the engine hook up?

Re(1): 1655 oil cooler

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 10, 2010 at 07:31:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I think one would go on the head and one on the thermostat housing. Larry

1855 hyd pump

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 10:34:05 PM by Dale Hilliard

what is the purpose of the little belt driven hyd pump on the left front side of motor? I thought it was just stand alone pump for power steering,but someone says its a "booster" pump.would like a better explanation if you can. thanks Dale H.

Re(1): 1855 hyd pump

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 10:45:22 PM by Larry Harsin

What this little pump does is move hydraulic oil through the cooler at the front of the tractor. Larry

Re(2): 1855 hyd pump

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on August 10, 2010 at 09:06:26 PM by Dale Hilliard

So thats its only purpose in life! Circulate fluid through cooler. thanks for clearing that up for me. DH

Re(3): 1855 hyd pump

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 07:10:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That's it! Larry

1650 pto shaft

IP: 96.228.105.221 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 08:15:54 PM by robert lapage

We have a 1650 and just had the engine done over, new clutch pressure plate etc. We ran for about 15 hours and it just stopped. We took off the double linked chain and the back sprocket just spins. The shaft is worn smooth. Is this common or was the shaft not installed right when they put the engine back in. Also we have a white tractor for parts that has a similar set up. Will the pto shaft fit the 1650 oliver?

Re(1): 1650 pto shaft

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 10:44:14 PM by Larry Harsin

If your White is a 2-70, it will probably fit. This is a common event. It was probably worn before - too bad they didn't check it. You'll have to put a new transmission input shaft in it. Larry

Hydraulic System

IP: 164.58.223.136 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 09:56:06 AM by Mitch Zimmerman

I have a 1967 1850d that is losing oil from the hydraulic system into the rear end where is is leaking out the wheel brakes. What could be the cause?

Re(1): Hydraulic System

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 9, 2010 at 10:41:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Usually the problem is a seal on the draft sensing rod. It sets between the bull gears. It can be accessed by removing the PTO unit. Then, you can observe if it is leaking at that point. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic System

IP: 164.58.223.136 Posted on August 10, 2010 at 02:46:24 PM by Mitch Zimmerman

Larry, The tractor is a wheatland with no 3-point. Would this still be the likely spot for the leak?

Re(3): Hydraulic System

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 07:16:19 AM by Larry Harsin

No, probably not if it doesn't have a 3 pt. and a rock shaft. It could be the oil pan has a crack in it or it could be a bad pump seal. Larry

770 power steering

IP: 75.174.224.14 Posted on August 8, 2010 at 10:18:21 AM by Jason Nicolaus

I have an Oliver 770 gas tractor with power steering that doesn't work. Any advice I can get before taking anything apart would be appreciated. The pump is behind the alternator. Should I replace the pump and see if that does the trick, or is the steering sector the place to start (it is covered with oil & grease)?? Thanks. Jason

Re(1): 770 power steering

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 8, 2010 at 04:49:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing you do is make sure which end is causing the problem. See if you can feel pressure on the hose when you turn the steering wheel. If you don't, maybe the pump is bad. If you do feel pressure, then apparently there is a problem in the unit below the radiator. Larry

1800 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 72.100.30.244 Posted on August 7, 2010 at 08:14:29 PM by Randy Kreun

Is the hydraulic pump serviceable from outside or do you remove the seat area for access.

Re(1): 1800 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 4.248.222.70 Posted on August 8, 2010 at 07:29:15 AM by Larry from MD

No you have to remove the whole unit under the seat and turn upsidedown

Re(2): 1800 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 8, 2010 at 04:47:36 PM by Larry Harsin

To work on the hydraulic system itself, you have to remove the whole hydraulic system off of the tractor. Larry

Oliver 70 stuck engine

IP: 69.97.24.252 Posted on August 5, 2010 at 09:24:20 AM by John

Hello, Well my 1939 70 ran approx 10 years ago but now the engine wont turn. Whats the best approach to getting it unstuck? Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 70 stuck engine

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 8, 2010 at 04:45:03 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I would remove the cylinder head and put penetrating oil on it. Then, wait a few days and try to turn it and tap on each piston with a wooden block while you are trying to turn it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 stuck engine

IP: 24.13.10.64 Posted on August 11, 2010 at 08:54:51 PM by John

Larry, I got the motor to turn. Did a compression test. It was not good. Ranged from 40 to 110. What should it be? Took the head off and taking it to get cleaned up and a valve job. Took 2 pistons out and they dont look too bad. No stuck rings on these 2. These are the original 3 1/8 sleeves and pistons. The cylinder walls dont look too bad. Hoping to just hone them, however there is a spot at the top of the cylinders that can catch my fingernail. Not all the way around but maybe half or so about a quarter inch from the top. How bad before the sleeves should be bore out? This tractor will never do hard work just maybe a parade or drive around the farm. Im hoping to just do the head and rings and put it back together. What do you think? Thanks.

Re(3): Oliver 70 stuck engine

IP: 75.104.168.221 Posted on August 12, 2010 at 07:20:06 AM by Larry Harsin

What you plan to do is good. That ridge that is partially around the cylinders won't bother, but I would hone them some. They do have ridge reamers you can use, but if it isn't all the way around, I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 70 stuck engine

IP: 75.205.190.223 Posted on August 13, 2010 at 06:13:16 PM by John Larry, Ok that sounds great. I would really like to do a micrometer check on the pistons and sleeves if I can find the micrometers to borrow or buy real cheap. Either way, while the motor is apart, I want to check the wear. Will the cylinder wear more or the rings? What would be the max tolerance between the piston and sleeve before I would have to either bore the sleeves and larger pistons or new original size sleeves and pistons? Larry, where can I find the good service manual that will tell me what I need to know on this 1939 Oliver 70 engine work over? Thanks Larry!! Re(5): Oliver 70 stuck engine IP: 75.105.52.129 Posted on August 18, 2010 at 06:18:06 PM by Larry Harsin They are pretty forgiving really. I would go with the tolerances given in the Shop Manual. You can get all 3 manuals from the Museum in Charles City, They have an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual and a Parts Manual. 641-228-1099. The rings wear the most and it wouldn't hurt a thing to put new rings in it. Larry

white 2-105

IP: 75.204.125.71 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 04:00:33 PM by Devin

Larry, what type of antifreeze should i use in 2-105?

Re(1): white 2-105

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 07:00:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Ethelyne Glycol based. It tells you what to use in your Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Super 55 Won't rev up

IP: 67.72.98.47 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 01:20:05 PM by Gary Ostendorf

Hi Mr Harsin, Thought you could possibly provide a little insight to my problem. Recently I purchased a 1958 Super 55. I use it mainly to bush hog, & it has been doing very well. While mowing last week the tractor began to sputter. If I pulled the choke on it ran ok. I stopped mowing & removed the carb looking for dirt. Didn't find any dirt but did find that the throttle shaft was very sloppy. I replaced the throttle shaft & gaskets. Now the tractor idles very nicely but won't rev up past 1500 rpm. If I remove the linkage it will rev up as it should. It appears the gov is pulling it back. I tried following the instructions in the manual but I get a little confused on the part where I am to adjust the bumper bolt on the gov. Moving it seems to have no effect. Seems odd that replacing that throttle shaft would have so much effect on the governor. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks Gary

Re(1): Super 55 Won't rev up

IP: 4.248.223.233 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 05:14:30 PM by Larry from MD

Most likely the arm on the shaft is in a differant place or reversed.

Re(2): Super 55 Won't rev up

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 07:16:38 PM by Larry Harsin

That bumper screw keeps it from surging. If the bumper screw is in too far, the engine will over speed. Go through the procedure outlined in the manual again. Something isn't adjusted correctly in your governor linkage. Also, have you checked to see that you are getting plenty of fuel to the carb. I usually take the strainer out of the tank and make sure there is no foreign material in the neck of the tank. Larry

1968 Oliver 550 front axle Removel

IP: 208.100.200.105 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 11:58:54 AM by Tom

Hello. I purchased an oliver 550 about 2 or 3 months ago. Runs pretty good but the person I bought it from did not grease it regularly and just the other day I was driving it and noticed the tractor starting to pull to the right I looked down and and noticed that the knuckle/shaft is wobbling and it caused the axle cylinder to flare out and crack at the bottom of the cylinder. I will have to remove the axle to have this repaired and am wondering if the center pin that holds the axle will have to be pressed out or if it is something I can pull out with a little penetrating oil and hammer?

Re(1): 1968 Oliver 550 front axle Removel

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 4, 2010 at 07:21:02 PM by Larry Harsin

That pin will probably have to be driven out. It has a set screw that screws into it, but it will probably have to be driven out after you remove the set screw. Larry

1555 lift lever leak

IP: 174.25.213.206 Posted on August 3, 2010 at 07:37:37 AM by Jerry Krause

The hitch lever leaks hdy. fluid. The book shows an 'O' ring on the shaft, but I cannot get at it. The 3 inch bar attached to the shaft is shown to have a pin in it. But I cannot find any such pin. How do I get at the 'O' ring to replace it?.

Re(1): 1555 lift lever leak

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 3, 2010 at 08:57:31 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the cast iron cover and the seat to get at this. The pin that you have to remove is inside the unit. Then, the shaft slides out of the unit. Put the O ring on the shaft and re-install it. Larry

hubs

IP: 38.100.15.131 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 02:58:13 PM by Colt

will the 6 bolt hubs (front wheel) off of a 55 fit in place of the cast hubs on an 88? Thanks for you help

Re(1): hubs

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 09:51:38 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are different size on the spindles. Larry

1955 sheet metal

IP: 66.252.85.230 Posted on July 31, 2010 at 10:39:29 PM by Austin White

I'm working on putting the sheet metal on my 1955 diesel. I put the hood on today, and there is an inch gap between the end of the hood to where it meets that piece of steel that bolts on top of the instrument panel. Also is there a piece of sheet metal and/or plastic that transitions the double curves of the hood to the single curve of the previously mentioned piece of steel. Is it possible the reason my hood is to short is that it came from a smaller model or are they all the same? Thanks

Re(1): 1955 sheet metal

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 09:49:50 PM by Larry Harsin

On most of them, there was a rubber strip that went in that inch. I think that Korves Oliver has them 618-939-6681. Larry

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