880 power booster seal

IP: 216.226.87.39 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 01:29:30 PM by Rick

I have an 880 oliver with a power booster and the input seal is leaking.Where can I find a place to get this seal? It is a helical transmision.

Re(1): 880 power booster seal

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on September 1, 2013 at 07:29:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 12.219.81.66 Posted on August 30, 2013 at 11:27:34 AM by Robert

I have an Oliver 1650 that runs like a champ, but I have an issue with the shift pattern. I understand that it has 6 speeds, plus the hydra-power shifter. I don't know how to get it into the higher set of speeds all of the time. For instance, if I want to mow with a bush hog and I am in 2nd gear, then I have to back up, then go forward again in the same shift location I find I am going way faster than previously. So, that has to be 4th gear, right? But if I do the same thing, back up, change speeds, etc, I can't find 4th again no matter what. I have been driving stick and tractors for 20 years, So I get how it is supposed to work, am I missing something? Is something worn or broken on my tractor? Any help would be great.

Re(1): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 69.54.23.183 Posted on August 30, 2013 at 10:43:58 PM by Lee

First two questions. Does your tractor have the decal on the dash that shows the shifting pattern? Do you know that it's a double neutral transmission?

Re(2): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 07:24:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to tell you. You could have something wrong or possibly you aren't using it correctly. Larry

Re(3): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 99.89.106.71 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 03:30:50 PM by Robert

Could I have trouble with my detent balls? When I bought the tractor, it had about 2 gallons of water in the trans. All of that is long gone now, but do I maybe have a broken spring or rusted detent ball? It is very possible I am using it wrong, so how do I use it correctly? Is engine speed or use of clutch part of it? Do you pull up or push down on the stick shift? I am used to farmalls. If there was something wrong what would it be?

Re(4): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 209.99.201.61 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 09:34:17 AM by Lee

I may be reading it wrong, but when I read your original post it occurs to me that you may be skipping back and forth between high and low neutral without realizing it. That's why I asked if you have the decal (on the right side, on the lower edge of the dash) that shows the gear location. To know if it's operator error we need to know if you know where the different gears and the two neutrals are.

Re(5): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 99.89.106.71 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 01:05:32 PM by Robert

Truthfully, I don't know where the two neutrals are. That is probably my problem. Sometimes I think I find the higher set of gears, but I cannot do it when I want to. Any advice would be appreciated. I have a good clutch, engine is strong, fluid is new this spring, all filters are changed as well as a multitude of seals. Please advise.

Re(6): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 209.99.201.61 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 05:45:54 PM by Lee

Oliver have six forward gears and two reverse, total of eight. They are divided on two neutrals, three forward and one reverse on each neutral. In each neutral the gears are located on the far ends of the free play, two on each side, left and right. In the center of each neutral there is a slot, ( with a longer movement ) that takes you into the other neutral. If in low neutral, the slot is on the dash side (top), if in high neutral, the slot is on the driver side (bottom) of neutral, always in the center of side to side free play. The movement from one neutral to the other is noticeably longer than the movement shifting into a gear, you should be able to recognize it if your looking for it. Try some practice shifting from one neutral to the other, move stick all the way left, all the way right, back to center and find the slot. Hope this helps.

Re(7): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 99.89.106.71 Posted on August 31, 2013 at 06:38:01 PM by Robert

Could I have trouble with my detent balls? When I bought the tractor, it had about 2 gallons of water in the trans. All of that is long gone now, but do I maybe have a broken spring or rusted detent ball?

Re(8): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on September 1, 2013 at 07:27:34 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, you need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Read this, it will help. Shift the hydra-power into the low side, if it doesn't want to come out of gear. That might make it easier. Larry

Re(9): 1650 Shifting issue/operator issue?

IP: 99.89.106.71 Posted on September 1, 2013 at 08:26:53 AM by Robert

Got the manual and IT book. I will try shifting it with the hydra power in low, thanks!

1265 power steering fluid? 550 injector pump seal replacement?

IP: 108.227.89.69 Posted on August 28, 2013 at 11:54:45 AM by doug s 1265 atf for power steering ok to use? Can the 550 injector pump seal [diesel in motor oil]be replaced with out removing pump? tks, doug s.

Re(1): 1265 power steering fluid? 550 injector pump seal replacement?

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 29, 2013 at 07:28:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Call your local pump place. If you don't have one, you can call Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200. Use ATF or power steering fluid. You don't have to remove the pump, you can just remove the drive shaft and the gear to install the seals. Larry

char-lynn p s

IP: 67.142.182.22 Posted on August 27, 2013 at 03:30:54 PM by frank learned

hello larry, wonder if you may have had experience with these after market torque motors as added to many older tractors to provide assist steering. i need to reseal one and would rather not do anything stupid.

Re(1): char-lynn p s

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 29, 2013 at 07:24:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I have worked with those. It is fairly simple to reseal them. Get the kit from Char-Lynn from your dealer. They were put on a lot of different tractors, so some one will have one. Larry

1850 Oliver

IP: 66.119.2.234 Posted on August 26, 2013 at 09:52:53 AM by Mark Eastwood

I have an 1850 oliver gas (originally a propane). I would like to convert to diesel and was told that a 5.9 cummins is an option. Can you tell me what other parts I need to find in order to do this, and is this an option

Re(1): 1850 Oliver

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 27, 2013 at 07:27:47 AM by Larry Harsin

The 59 Cummins is the most feasible. If you want to repower it, that would be the one, We discussed this on the phone last night. Larry

Paint color/code

IP: 184.5.182.110 Posted on August 25, 2013 at 07:58:13 PM by Mike

Good day, we have, as part of our Oliver collection, an OC-12, OC-46 with backhoe attachment, and 1550 industrial backhoe (all diesel). Did they all originally come in the same yellow paint and what's the code(s)? Thanks!

Re(1): Paint color/code

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 25, 2013 at 09:44:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Zimmerman Cletrac about this paint. Email: zoc@pcfreemail Phone: 717-738-2573. Larry

Oliver 1650 electrical issue

IP: 75.98.177.30 Posted on August 25, 2013 at 11:55:06 AM by Russ Cook

Hello and thank you for this great site. I have an Oliver 1650 gas and I am having a hard time troubleshooting an electrical problem. I first thought it was a solenoid issue but now I am not so sure since I purchased a new solenoid and the problem persists. Basically when I turn the ignition switch, I get nothing. On my solenoid there are 4 posts. There is the main battery terminal with the battery lead and a red wire that goes to the amp gauge. Next is a smaller terminal that has a pink wire that goes to the center starter post on the key switch. There is another smaller post that has a white wire that goes to the coil and it also has a black resistance wire that goes to the IGN terminal on the key switch. Finally the forth terminal connects straight to the start post. I found that if I take a extra wire and connect it to the solenoid post that goes to the coil and ground it to the tractor frame then the engine will crank over when I turn the key but it appears I get no spark. I assume this is because I am grounding it so the coil is no longer getting juice. I do not know if I have a short somewhere or I am missing a ground someplace. Any ideas to help trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 1650 electrical issue

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 25, 2013 at 09:40:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It will not get any spark because it is grounded. Consult the Operator's Manual and the wiring diagram. You may just have a bad set of points or a bad condenser. Another thing could be a broken ground wire from the distributor housing to the points. Larry

59 550 crank pulley

IP: 71.0.109.255 Posted on August 20, 2013 at 10:45:53 AM by chuck klim

Larry, the front oil seal is leaking a little on my 550. can the pulley be removed with the engine in place? I want to install a new external seal. thanks, Chuck

Re(1): 59 550 crank pulley

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 21, 2013 at 06:28:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You will probably have to loosen the front frame and slide it forward slightly. Before you begin, it isn't as simple as you think, to fix that seal. In order to replace the seal, you have to remove the water pump and the front timing cover. So, if it isn't leaking very much, you may not want to monkey with it. Larry

Re(2): 59 550 crank pulley

IP: 71.0.109.255 Posted on August 21, 2013 at 10:59:12 PM by Chuck Klim

Larry, Thanks for the reply. On my 77 's front seal I bought an external seal and installed it without removing the timing cover, had to grind a little off the back of the seal and a little silicone sealer between the timing cover and the seal and no more leak, quite an easy job on the 77. Guess I'll let the 550 drip a little oil, Thanks again, Chuck

Re(3): 59 550 crank pulley

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 22, 2013 at 08:42:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad you got it working. Larry

1650 running uneven

IP: 173.31.181.214 Posted on August 16, 2013 at 01:59:14 PM by mike watson

My 1650 will run just fine sitting at idle. When I run a small round baler and the bale gets over 3 ft in diameter, the engine starts to bog down like it is starving for fuel. I can keep it running with the choke. I have cleaned out the fuel tank, put in a line filter, and cleaned the carburetor bowl, making sure the valve above the float moved. Not sure what to do next. Also, is it normal for the area below the exhaust pipe at its junction with the exhaust manifold to glow red when the tractor is working?

Re(1): 1650 running uneven

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 17, 2013 at 07:17:24 AM by Larry Harsin

It may be vapor locking. Try removing the side panels to let the heat out. Also, try putting some insulation on the fuel line that goes to the carb. You could try some insulation between the engine and the fuel tank. Like insulation board or something like that. Larry

550 Oliver Governor

IP: 98.161.34.4 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 10:59:34 PM by Larry K

My governor does not seem to open up under load. I replaced it when I restored the 1961 550. I may have changed the system. I understand that can be a problem. How can I make sure that I have the right governor with the correct linkage? I have the governor with the steel plates rather than the forged steel.

Re(1): 550 Oliver Governor

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 17, 2013 at 07:14:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The governor with the steel plates is the correct one. That is what they came with. Check your Operator's Manual and set it up as it shows. Also, make sure none of the linkage is binding. Larry

1365 hydraulic pump

IP: 184.161.75.101 Posted on August 12, 2013 at 05:08:18 PM by Philippe Beaudry

Trying to remove the hydraulic pump on a 1365. Removed all nuts, oil input and output and I still cant remove the pump. What am I missing?

Re(1): 1365 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 06:57:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know, I'm not familiar with the Fiat Olivers. You could get a Shop Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

1950 oliver

IP: 98.65.193.136 Posted on August 10, 2013 at 04:12:14 PM by Jesse hayes

Larry I have found a yellow and white Oliver 1950 fwa 4wd Detroit gm diesel tractor in an old shed at the local power company but it's yellow and white and in the front white grill it says parsons where the Oliver emblem should go and it has 2 lift bars on the front u carry wire with and on the back it has some kind of attachment it even says parsons seamen on the back what kind of Oliver tractor is this is it a mighty tow? Or what

Re(1): 1950 oliver

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 06:55:01 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably a Mighty Tow with Parson's Equipment on it. Ken Guile has one in MI. Larry

Re(2): 1950 oliver

IP: 98.65.193.136 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 03:07:21 PM by Jesse Hayes

Is it worth $6,000 not running everything's there though.

Re(3): 1950 oliver

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on August 17, 2013 at 07:10:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it is worth that much. Maybe $4000 - $5000. With it not running, you don't know what repairs might cost. Larry

Oliver 550

IP: 67.239.153.194 Posted on August 8, 2013 at 03:31:09 PM by Michael

I have looked all over the internet for a Power Beyond block for my 550. Do you guys sell them?

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 06:50:37 AM by Larry Harsin

No, we don't have them. Call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX, 903-729-8349. Larry

Type a fluid for 1650 oliver

IP: 69.197.92.119 Posted on August 8, 2013 at 11:21:33 AM by david mccurdy

Wondering what would be the direct replacement for type "A" transmission fluid. I am told DEXRON will work? ALSO LOOKING FOR THE SMALL FILTERS ON THE DIPSTICK, WHO EVER HAD MY TRACTOR BEFORE ME SQUASHED THE ONE I HAVE AND I WILL REPLACE IT.

Re(1): type a fluid for 1650 oliver

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 06:48:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Dexron is what to use. You can get that little breather element from your AGCO Dealer. Or, you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1755 hydraulics

IP: 68.40.94.222 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 09:17:37 PM by Jeremy

The hydraulics in my 1755 suddenly went out, no power steering, no remotes, no 3 pt. I removed compensation valve and is moving freely. Unloader valve is good. Hooked up gauge to port on valve body and read 0 psi. Changed fluid and filter and still has no hydraulics. Makes a ticking noise from lines below Hyd pump area. Any ideas? Thanks.

Re(1): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 09:50:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Are you sure the PTO shaft is turning the hydraulic pump? Open the little plate on the back of the tractor when it is running. See if the PTO drive shaft is turning. If it isn't running, you probably have sheered splines on the front of the PTO driveshaft. Larry

Re(2): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 68.40.94.222 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 10:15:50 PM by jeremy

what.little.plate.exactly. the.2.pto.shafts.are.spinning.slowly.on.outside.of.tractor.does.this.mean.anything. My tractor has a 2nd pto where cover would typically be. If this (upper) pto is spinning engine rpm than can I assume driveshaft is ok?

Re(3): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on August 13, 2013 at 06:45:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I don't know what happened. We discussed this on the phone yesterday. Larry

Headlights Assembly on 1964 Oliver 1850.

IP: 184.20.216.238 Posted on August 6, 2013 at 07:09:26 PM by Laura Lowe

My husband upgraded tractors this past weekend. He went from a Ford 8N to a 1964 Oliver 1850 with a Perkins Diesel. The tractor he got is in really good condition for its age. However it has no headlights or tail lights. His birthday is coming up and I would like to surprise him with lights on his tractor. My question is. What holds the headlight in place? I have already ordered headlights that I have been assured will fit the original spots but I don't see what or how they are held in place. Is there some sort of rubber gasket that may be sold separately? Any info, advice, or pics would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Headlights Assembly on 1964 Oliver 1850. IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 09:46:23 PM by Larry Harsin

On an 1850, they fit into the fenders. There should be mounting holes in the panels. I don't have the lights, but I do have the pieces that hold them in. There are 4 headlights and 1 rear flood light. 712-362-2966 Larry

Oliver 770

IP: 64.237.112.162 Posted on August 6, 2013 at 05:08:56 PM by BERT MCMULLEN

1965 oliver 770 ,runs and dies,black smoke,reset float,leaned out. i found what i believe excessive backlash in timing gears,crank moves 1/4 "before distributer rotor moves,is this a common problem? are new timing gears available? thanks Bert

Re(1): Oliver 770

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 09:42:28 PM by Larry Harsin

It isn't necessarily a common problem. If you need timing gears, I have used ones available. 712-362-2966. Larry

550 Oliver

IP: 99.21.222.61 Posted on August 6, 2013 at 11:42:51 AM by Gengler

Larry, I have two 550's.One is a 1959 the other is a 1974.On the oilbase there is a cone that slips over the oil tube. The 1974 has one the 1959 does not.What is the purpose of this cone and do I need to find one for the 1959? Thank You.

Re(1): 550 Oliver

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on August 7, 2013 at 09:39:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't heard about these cones before. I don't think they would be absolutely needed, I don't know. Larry

Carb problem on 1973 1655 gas

IP: 70.194.64.233 Posted on August 4, 2013 at 06:28:07 PM by jerry Lower

I have 1973 Oliver 1655 gas tractor with a Bendix - Zenith Carb, The tractor starts good and run until the cab ices over between the choke plate and the manifold. I have cleaned the cab, used different fuels and additives. The time the Carb ices over depends on the speed of the tractor. It will ice over in ten minutes when it is Idling and five if the engine is up to speed. When it ices over the tractors stops. Let it warm up and it starts and icing cycle repeats. I know the icing is called throttling, cooling when liquid fuel is atomized into a gas and thus a cooling effect like a refrigerator, but I don't want that in my carburetor.

Re(1): Carb problem on 1973 1655 gas

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on August 5, 2013 at 07:16:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the thermostat is working and clean out the heat box above the carb. Larry

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