cleat trac

IP: 207.194.162.58

Posted on December 31, 2002 at 01:11:02 PM by mike vaughan

Hello Larry,

I have a cleat trac that I'm going to fix up, mostly just electrical problems. The problem I have is that I don't know anything about it and I would like to know its year and model ect. The following is a serial number I got off a brass engine plate, I hpoe you can enlighten me #- mw-46720 Thank you in advance and have a happy new year mike

Re(1)Cletrac

IP: 209.163.7.54

Posted on January 1, 2003 at 06:37:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe you have an engine tag number there. There is usually a serial number on the dash. Look there and let us know what you find. You should get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. It will have a wiring diagram in it. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

480 spreader

IP: 66.152.128.125

Posted on December 31, 2002 at 10:27:16 AM by kevin

i am interested in selling an oliver 480 spreader that is in good condition. curious to know what it might be worth. thanks in advance

Re(1): 480 spreader

IP: 209.163.7.54

Posted on January 1, 2003 at 06:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. It will depend on condition and where you are. Asking a local auctioneer may be your best way to go. Or you could check with Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

880 pto clutch

IP: 209.162.160.144

Posted on December 31, 2002 at 01:42:28 AM by Ray

I need the pto clutch assembly for my

880 and I have not been able to find

anything. Any ideas? Will a clutch from

another model fit?

Re(1): 880 pto clutch

IP: 209.163.7.54

Posted on January 1, 2003 at 06:28:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I have one. Email me about how much stuff you need with it. Larry

oliver66 hyd pump

IP: 199.199.229.4

Posted on December 30, 2002 at 07:36:17 PM by dave brown

larry can you tell me where to find a hyd pump for a "51" 66?

Re(1): oliver66 hyd pump

IP: 209.163.7.27

Posted on December 30, 2002 at 10:11:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Doug Johnson. Phone: 319-347-6332 Email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. Or you could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. Larry

Row Crop 70

IP: 208.1.187.85

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 10:44:22 PM by Craig Braulick

Larry,

I have a 1940 Oliver Row Crop 70. I would like to know about a spring that is mounted in the PTO bearing retainer cap. It appears to be a torsion type spring about 3/8" in diameter. It runs horizontally and is located above the shaft. I can see where something was attached to the spring (like for some kind of cover or safety device). Can you tell me what this spring was for?

Thank you.

Craig

Re(1): Row Crop 70

IP: 209.163.7.32

Posted on December 30, 2002 at 06:22:17 AM by Larry Harsin

There was a little flip-up cover that was spring loaded. It covered the PTO shaft. When you installed the PTO shield, the spring loaded cover was held upright by the PTO shield while you used the PTO. Then when you removed the PTO shield after using it, the spring pulled the cover down to cover the PTO so nothing would get caught in it. Larry

1600 engine pull

IP: 152.163.189.168

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 07:26:42 PM by Don

Just about got the engine ready to pull, but before I do I got 1 question- Is there anyhting holding the hydra power unit to the frame, or is it just bolted to the engine? I pulled out the PTO shaft today and took off the chain coupler, and only have the 4 bolts on the engine to go.

Re(1): 1600 engine pull

IP: 209.163.7.84

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 10:07:48 PM by Larry Harsin

It is simply bolted to the engine. Larry

Re(2): 1600 engine pull

IP: 152.163.189.70

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 10:57:11 PM by Don

Thanks Larry.

One more question: How hard is it to tear apart the hydra power to re-seal it? It was leaking out on the right side, looked like some round plug with a set-screw in it. I'm sure she has a few other leaks as well and I would like to fix it myself if possible.

Don

Re(3): 1600 engine pull

IP: 209.163.7.32

Posted on December 30, 2002 at 06:17:26 AM by Larry Harsin

It's doable, but you better get a Shop Manual so that you know what you are doing. You can get one from Mary Ann at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net

Larry

Distributor Cap Condensation

IP: 65.178.209.123

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 11:25:10 AM by Karl

How do you prevent condensation buildup in the distributor cap in the 770 and 1550 Olivers?

Re(1): Distributor Cap Condensation

IP: 209.163.7.53

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 01:48:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm wondering if the distributor shaft bushings are worn enough to let engine gases come up through the distributor from the engine. Another thing, are these engines up to the proper operating temperature? In other words, are the thermostats working? Larry

Hart-Parr 70 info

IP: 64.19.82.27

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 08:35:10 PM by Ed

Did the 70 change engines at any time? I see a picture in a book with a distributer on the right side of the engine. The Hart-Parr 70 has a magneto on the left side of the engine, and I believe it is a Continental engine. Please help!

Re(1): Hart-Parr 70 info

IP: 209.163.7.34

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 10:45:31 PM by Larry Harsin

The later 70's had the same Continental engine, but with the distributor on the other side. The later 70 had a 3 timing gear engine instead of a 5 timing gear engine and they rearranged some of the other parts. The change was made in the 1938 70. Some of the styled 70's had 5 gear engines. Larry

Hart-Parr 70 info

IP: 64.19.82.27

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 08:17:13 PM by Ed

I have a chance to buy a Hart-Parr 70. This will be my first Oliver. The man thinks it is a 37, but I am not sure. I screwed up and didn't write down the serial number. It has a magneto. It has the cast iron radiator with the Hart-Parr name in it. What has me confused is that he sais it has a 6 speed tranny. Could this be? Just wondering.

Re(1): Hart-Parr 70 info

IP: 209.163.7.34

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 10:40:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It can be. It sounds like the guy knows what he is talking about. I have a tractor just like that. It's a 1937 Hart-Parr 70. Larry

OC-9

IP: 63.156.36.227

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 08:10:45 PM by dan

Larry: Any idea where I can find an

OC-9 with a dozer blade??? I have a OC-96 with a bad engine and I would like to find a Dozer.. Thanks

Re(1): OC-9

IP: 209.163.7.34

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 10:37:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net or 717-738-2573. Or if you are further west, you can contact Bill Bechtold at Lodi California 209-333-1970. Larry

55 super

IP: 204.101.190.211

Posted on December 26, 2002 at 06:56:44 PM by Paul

Tearing apart a55 super to rep;ace all the oil seals and front axle bushings and need to find a new hub and rim as one side has been replaced with a different hub and a 14" car tire. the other has a 16" rim with a 6:50x 16 tire and wondering if that is the correct size of tire or should it be a 6:00x16? Also is it the same hub and rim as th front of a 66 standard or 66 super. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul in Ontario.

Happy Holidays to all!

Re(1): 55 super

IP: 209.163.7.34

Posted on December 27, 2002 at 10:34:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it is the same as a 66. I believe you can put different sizes on there. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl and see what he says and if he can help you with parts. 800-320-6224. Larry

1800 C alternator wiring.

IP: 216.106.56.13

Posted on December 25, 2002 at 12:13:18 AM by Jason Epperson

I have an 1800 C-series gas tractor. I installed a one wire GM alternator on it and am trying to figure out how to wire it and still have the gen indicator light still work. Can you tell me how to wire this tractor up so everything will work correctly. I have already changed the battery cables for a negative ground system. Thank you.

Re(1): 1800 C alternator wiring.

IP: 209.163.7.67

Posted on December 26, 2002 at 01:05:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it is possible to do it with that kind of alternator. The 770 uses a setup with a warning light for the amp. It has the older style alternator with the external regulator. That is what I talking about. With this new setup, you will have to put on a volt meter or an ammeter. Larry

Re(2): 1800 C alternator wiring.

IP: 216.106.56.5

Posted on December 26, 2002 at 07:07:11 PM by Jason Epperson

Thanks for the reply. How would I go about wiring the ammeter in to the wiring harness? When I first wired this alternator up, I just bypassed the light but thought maybe there was a way to do it that I didn't know about. Thanks.

Re(3): 1800 C alternator wiring.

IP: 205.188.208.105

Posted on December 26, 2002 at 08:51:06 PM by Bob Semrau

My 1600 gas was converted to a Delco 1 wire alternator by a previous owner. It was actually very easy to get the gen light to work. Your 1 wire alternator probably has two extra spade leads that are covered with a rubber plug. One of these gets tied to the battery feed at the alternator, the other goes to the wire that used to feed the gen light. I can't remember which lead is which on the alternator, but do a search on 3 wire Delco alternators and you will find it easily - this is a very common mod. You can buy the wire plug that fits the two spade leads at any auto store. Another advantage of this modification is that the alternator will start charging at much lower RPMs - on mine the light goes out before I'm done cranking.

Re(4): 1800 C alternator wiring.

IP: 216.106.56.56

Posted on December 28, 2002 at 10:21:50 AM by Jason Epperson

Thanks for the tip. My alternator does have the rubber plug installed on it. I have seen these pigtails at the auto parts store but didn't think about it before. Thanks again

lower gearing

IP: 209.240.198.62

Posted on December 25, 2002 at 08:35:56 AM by Peter

I have a 550 that I use in Vermont on heavily wooded property. I would benefit with lower gearing and really don't have any use for 5th or 6th gear. Is there any way to lower the overall gearing.Thanks Peter

Re(1): lower gearing

IP: 209.163.7.33

Posted on December 25, 2002 at 05:31:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Not that I am aware of. You could put smaller tires on the rear. That would slow it down. Larry

1600 rebuild

IP: 64.12.96.13

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 03:45:43 PM by Don - WI

I was at my AGCO dealer pricing overhaul kits for my grandpa's old 1600 (gas), bought new June 23,1964(says so in the manual), and they had the AGCO kit w/ 3 5/8 pistons available, or a kit from TISCO with 3 7/8 pistons. My question is, Will the 3 7/8" fit in my block? As far as I know, it has the 3 1/2 pistons right now, making it a 231. The 3 7/8 would make it a 283, if the sleeves will fit in the block, and I would like to have a few extra horse to maybe use to pull my 3-16 565 plow.

Merry Christmas Larry

Don from Wisconsin

Re(1): 1600 rebuild

IP: 209.163.7.72

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 06:23:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the 3 7/8 will work, but it takes a special head gasket when you go to that big bore. They are successful, however, I personally prefer the 3 5/8 bore set up. I think the engine runs a little smoother and it doesn't burn as much gas. Merry Christmas to you too. Larry

550 price

IP: 209.224.34.159

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 12:04:43 AM by Bill Shepard

I have a 67 550 gas I'm thinking of selling and I was wondering what a typical price range might be. It has 2700 hr.and is real complete and original, Power steering, original back tires with good tread, good tin and grill, remote hydraulic outlet, runs and starts great and everything works good(the gas gauge is intermittent). Your help is appreciated.

Re(1): 550 price

IP: 209.163.7.72

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 06:19:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say it's worth in the neighborhood of $5000. Larry

oliver 88 motor

IP: 67.233.61.51

Posted on December 23, 2002 at 11:40:28 PM by ryan hockersnith

Hi Larry could you tell me a4.38 piston and sleeve conbination thati could bore my block out that would work iwas going to leave my crank stock iwas told that there was a m and w piston that would work buti dont know much about them any help would very appreiciated thanks ryan

Re(1): oliver 88 motor

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 08:36:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I can't tell you. You will have to rely on your machine shop people for the advice as to what to do. Larry

Oliver 1850

IP: 216.190.1.198

Posted on December 23, 2002 at 10:14:32 PM by Steven Uthoff

I am new to farming, and am the proud owner of an Oliver 1850. I use it to farm about 50 acres of alfalfa. I attach a baler, and sometimes a rake. I have some dirt moving to do on the farm, and have been asking around about putting a blade and a bucket on the tractor. I get different answers from everyone. Some say the tractor is not big enough to do that, others say it is ok as long as I install it on the rear. What do you think?

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 08:33:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I would be inclined to agree with some of them. It is not designed to be a bull dozer. I good heavy blade on the 3 pt. hitch can do a lot. A front end loader will do lots of things, but they are not designed to dig in dirt. I think you are asking for problems if you plan to dig into dirt. If you want to dig, you should consider a 3 pt. hitch backhoe that will fit onto the rear of the tractor. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1850

IP: 64.12.96.45

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 03:49:53 PM by Don-WI

We borrow the neighbor's soil saver (pull-behind earth mover) on our massey 285, and it works very well. You'd be surprised the amount of dirt you can move with one of those things.

Don

Super 55 gas

IP: 192.219.127.235

Posted on December 23, 2002 at 10:49:52 AM by STU

I have a 1955 Super 55 gas. I just got it, and I am not afraid to admit I am not mechanically inclined, but want to learn. This tractor runs great. I bought the I&T service manual for it. I want to be able to do the simple things, that the manual doesnt cover.

Can you help me with the following questions:

1) The optimal crankcase oil weight for harsh frozen winters (4.0 quarts)

2)The optimal Transmission and Differential fluid (20.0 quarts)

3)Can you explain the "Draft control and Position control" system to me with the 3ph. I want to plow snow with a rear blade and I suspect this system is a benefit to floating the blade but I am not sure.

Thanks

STU

Re(1): Super 55 gas

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 08:23:37 AM by Larry Harsin

1. I would use 10W-30 wt. oil

2. That uses 10W-30 oil also.

3. For using a blade, jut put it on position control. Draft control you would use when plowing.

I would reccomend you get a S55 gas Operator's Manual from Charles City. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): Super 55 gas

IP: 192.219.127.235

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 10:57:11 AM by STU

Thanks Larry. Nice and prompt reply, very appreciated.

1650

IP: 63.69.197.151

Posted on December 23, 2002 at 07:41:01 AM by Tim

Is there any functional difference between an Oliver 1650 and a ####shutt 1650? Which is worth more? I purchased a late model 1650 painted oliver green, wearing oliver decals, but carrying a ####shutt serial # tag. Should I paint it Red or Green?

thanks

Re(1): 1650

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 08:17:07 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They are identical. It probably was red to start with, so it is up to you. Larry

18-27

IP: 204.42.28.61

Posted on December 22, 2002 at 07:37:30 PM by Russ

is the oliver 80 rear end the same as a oliver 18-27, I have a 18-27 that has two cracks in the rear end, wondering if a 80 would match up???

Re(1): 18-27

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 24, 2002 at 08:14:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Well, I think they are similar, but I wouldn't guarantee that they would match up. One of the concerns would be the brakes. Some of the 18-27's did not have individual brakes and the 80 did. Also, I don't think the 18-27 had a 4 speed transmission and most of the 80's did. Larry

generator on S55

IP: 67.115.60.77

Posted on December 22, 2002 at 01:27:06 AM by Mark

My generator does not work on my 1958 Super 55 (12V, positive ground). Can it be rebuilt or should I switch to an alternator? Also, where can I get an inner cable for the tachometer? Thanks.

Re(1): generator on S55

IP: 209.163.7.37

Posted on December 22, 2002 at 06:14:54 PM by Larry Harsin

If it was mine, I would have the generator repaired. You can get a rebuilt generator for approx. $85 from T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. You will need to have the Delco Remy number off your generator to give to them when you order one. You can get an inner cable for the tach from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): generator on S55

IP: 67.115.60.76

Posted on December 25, 2002 at 02:43:03 AM by Mark

Larry:

Thank you for your help.

Mark

(770 Year)

IP: 209.143.34.94

Posted on December 21, 2002 at 08:52:07 PM by Farmer Doug

Larry, I picked up that 770 today (previous post) and I was wondering if you could check my serial number and confirm what year it is. My number is:

118457-736. Thanks, Doug

Re(1): (770 Year)

IP: 209.163.7.37

Posted on December 22, 2002 at 06:07:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 770 was built in 1962. Larry

Oliver 770 hydraulics

IP: 209.143.34.121

Posted on December 19, 2002 at 01:04:15 PM by Farmer Doug

Hi Larry, I'm a first timer to your site and thought I'd pop a question at you. I just purchased a cream puff '62 770 wide front for $2650.00 Is this tractor stout enough and have good enough hydraulics to put on a loader to handle round bales approx. 1000 lbs?

I don't want to risk tearing up the tractor but just the same I'd like to put it to work on the farm. Thanks, Doug

Re(1): Oliver 770 hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.21

Posted on December 20, 2002 at 11:06:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. A 770 is strong enough to handle 1000 lb bales. Larry

oliver 880

IP: 137.36.251.61

Posted on December 17, 2002 at 09:57:43 AM by jason

what do yo uthink a 880 with backhoe a blad and cab not running but the motor is free diesel would be worth?

Re(1): oliver 880

IP: 209.163.7.9

Posted on December 18, 2002 at 05:50:34 AM by Larry Harsin

That's a tough question. So much depends on condition. Condition of the loader and backhoe also included. It could be a $2000 outfit, it could be worth more or it could be just a bunch of iron. I can't hazard a guess. Larry

horsepower rating

IP: 152.163.189.168

Posted on December 15, 2002 at 10:51:28 PM by dave

always been a fan of olivers. my dad's tractor was a super 88.

could you tell me the horsepower ratings of the 1650 and 1850 models respectively. i am looking for a 80+ hp model oliver to do some farming with (hopefully with a front end loader). thanks.

Re(1): horsepower rating

IP: 64.33.181.38

Posted on December 16, 2002 at 06:40:11 AM by Paul A. Ramey

From WWW.tractordatabase.com

Oliver

1650

Manufactured: 1964 - 1969

Horsepower:

Drawbar: 56.5

PTO: 66.28

Displacement: 283 ci

weight: 7,820 lbs

Oliver

1850

Horsepower:

Drawbar: 76.6

PTO: 92.43

Engine:

Cylinders: 6

Displacement: 310 ci

super 88

IP: 216.138.55.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:20:42 PM by oliver farmer

hi larry, we are looking for a exhaust manifold for a 1957 super 88 gas, and an intake/exhaust for a 770. also, can you tell us how to identify a disk plow to see if it an oliver or not? thanks,hope you can help. chuck and melissa Merry Christmas

Re(1): super 88

IP: 209.163.7.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:37:23 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get the manifolds from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. I think the numbers cast into the casting on the disk plow have a DP prefix. Contact Sherry Schaefer for better information on disk plows. sherry@oliverinformation.com. Happy Holidays to you, also. Larry

Re(2): super 88

IP: 216.138.55.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:41:19 PM by oliver farmer

thanks larry

1965 Oliver 770 Governor Adjustment

IP: 216.178.87.89

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:20:14 PM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I adjusted my governor linkage according to what my owners manual states. At least I think I did. I'm a bit confused on some of it though. It tells me that the governor-to-carburetor rod is to be 1/16" forward of the top hole in the operating lever with the governor control lever in the full throtle position. Does this mean from the center line of the hole in the operating lever to the center line of the governor-to-carburetor rod? Finally the bumper screw adjustment. Is it possible if I screw this in too far that I might screw something up? Thank you very much again for all your time and help. All of your help is greatly appreciated and put to good use. Happy Holidays. Mike Renner

Re(1): 1965 Oliver 770 Governor Adjustment

IP: 209.163.7.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:33:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The answer to your first question is yes - center line to center line. On the bumper screw adjustment, if you screw it in too far, the engine will over speed and the governor won't work. After I had my rods adjusted, I would hold the governor arm forward and have the bumper screw turned out. Then I would screw the bumper screw in until I felt the spring contacting the fork inside the governor. I would stop there and then start the engine and see how it acts. If it is surgy, screw the Bumper screw in a third turn at a time until it quits surging. Larry

1965 Oliver 770 Muffler

IP: 216.178.87.89

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:01:22 PM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. Where would you suggest I look for a muffler for my 1965 Oliver 770? Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner

Re(1): 1965 Oliver 770 Muffler

IP: 209.163.7.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:26:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Sometimes the Farm Supply Stores have them. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. will have them. 800-320-6224. Larry

66 TRANS COVER

IP: 216.248.80.236

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 07:44:25 AM by RYAN

WE ARE LOOKING FOR AN OLIVER 66 TRANS COVER. PART # LS619. DO YOU KNOW WERE WE CAN FIND ONE?

Re(1): 66 TRANS COVER

IP: 209.163.7.98

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 10:24:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I have one. $75 plus shipping. Email me your Zipcode and I can figure shipping. Larry

HEAD SHOPING

IP: 209.224.19.190

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 00:26:29 AM by K MEDCHILL

I FOUND A GAS 1550 HEAD FOR MY 77 WITH CAST #185-502B AND100-334A I WAS TOLD THIS HEAD WAS RARE. WILL IT FIT? WHY IS IT RARE? 575$ NO VALVES BUT IS RE SURFACED. THANX FOR ANY HELP!!

Re(1): HEAD SHOPING

IP: 209.163.7.55

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 07:20:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't believe that it is that rare. I can furnish one for the same money, that will be complete, ready to install with the valves and all. If you are interested, email me. Larry

Re(2): HEAD SHOPING

IP: 63.160.15.129

Posted on December 23, 2002 at 12:53:59 AM by WADE (PA)

Larry, will that head bolt right on a 77'? is it a taller head? do these 2 have the same basic motor?

Re(3): HEAD SHOPING

IP: 209.163.7.35

Posted on January 5, 2003 at 04:13:49 PM by Larry Harsin

The head will fit the 77. It isn't taller. The 1550 and the 77 motors are in the same family. Larry

AG-6 Clutch install

IP: 198.81.26.108

Posted on December 13, 2002 at 10:17:07 PM by Howie

I just acquired a Cletrac AG-6 crawler. It needs a new drive clutch. I have never done this before. Could you describe the process that I need to follow. Thanks

Re(1): AG-6 Clutch install

IP: 209.163.7.55

Posted on December 14, 2002 at 07:16:52 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to remove the fuel tank, there's an access cover on the housing above the clutch. Remove the drive shaft, it has a coupling ahead of the transmission. Then you can get to the clutch. Larry

super 77 diesel engine

IP: 170.54.59.160

Posted on December 12, 2002 at 03:20:47 PM by BRAD MENKE

Larry,

I have a 1955 super 77 diesel and I was wondering what make the engine is, and any pro's or con's to it.

thank you

Brad

Re(1): super 77 diesel engine

IP: 209.163.7.86

Posted on December 12, 2002 at 09:49:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Your engine is a 185 Waukesha. They are very good and durable engines. I can think of no particular problems. Larry

magneto/wiring

IP: 208.16.230.40

Posted on December 11, 2002 at 07:41:46 PM by Wally Roush

Larry

have a 1939 70 with a mageto, I need some help with the wiring, the mag seems to have power at the thumb screw wire conetion between the thumb screw and the battery negative, with no wire attached, is this correct? If so were does the wire go that should be connected to it. I am very new to the positive ground concept and did not have much to go on to start with

Re(1): magneto/wiring

IP: 209.163.7.87

Posted on December 11, 2002 at 11:02:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, this is correct. All that wire does is ground out the magneto so that it will shut off the tractor. So you will need a grounding switch. The wire that is connected to the magneto goes to a grounding switch on the dash. The magneto and this wire must NOT be connected to the electrical system on the tractor or you will have a fried magneto. Larry

38" Cast Centers

IP: 216.251.171.25

Posted on December 11, 2002 at 01:17:41 PM by Brent Fetters

I am looking for a set of 38" cast centers that will fit a 1750 Oliver deisel.

Re(1): 38

IP: 209.163.7.87

Posted on December 11, 2002 at 10:54:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 80-320-6224. Larry

70 front end

IP: 63.160.15.129

Posted on December 10, 2002 at 07:59:41 AM by Wade (PA)

I asked about a 88 narrow front, but I found a 70 w/ narrow front close by. Will this fit on my 77? Thx

Re(1): 70 front end

IP: 209.163.7.52

Posted on December 10, 2002 at 05:58:39 PM by Larry Harsin

A narrow front off of a 70 will not fit a 77 or an 88. Larry

wheel weights

IP: 63.172.119.33

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 09:52:26 PM by Chris

I was just wondering what a set of rear wheel weights are worth for a Oliver 88 and about how much they weigh? Also what other Olivers will they fit on to?

Thanks,

Chris

Re(1): wheel weights

IP: 209.163.7.88

Posted on December 10, 2002 at 06:51:52 AM by Larry Harsin

For an Oliver 88 they are about $60 per pair. They will weigh about 280 lbs for the pair. Those are very popular and will fit most of the Row Crop tractors, from the Oliver 60 up through the RC tractors built in the late 70's. Larry

1750 PTO

IP: 32.101.102.252

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 08:29:53 PM by JacobM

I just purchased a 1750 and the PTO spins with the lever in both the engaged and disengaged position. I was wondering what could be causing this and what to do to fix it.

All help is appreciated.

Re(1): 1750 PTO

IP: 209.163.7.88

Posted on December 10, 2002 at 06:45:52 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 3 positions on that. There is engage, disengage and stop. When you push the lever all the way back it should stop. On 1750's it is hard to keep them from turning when they are disengaged. Adjust the linkage so that it latches back more firmly. Also, the mounting bolts for the PTO lever assembly may be loose. If these measures don't help, you may have warped plates inside the PTO clutch. If you need more information, you should get an Operator's Manual or a Service Manual from Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. There will be a charge of approx. $25. Larry

3 pt. problem

IP: 199.150.177.187

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 12:36:59 AM by Carl

Larry,

Thanks for the advice a few days ago on the 3 pt. problem on the 2-70 White. I turned the bolt located on the hydraulic housing, bottom right side, as you had mentioned, and now the three point arms go up. I couldn't get them to go down, but I didn't have time to work on it any further. I think I just need to turn that bolt a little more. Now we have another problem. When the tractor is cold, the steering will not work at all. After the tractor warms up for a few minutes, the steering will start working. Any ideas on this one? Maybe a sticking valve somewhere?

Re(1): 3 pt. problem

IP: 209.163.7.19

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 07:28:57 PM by Larry Harsin

On your 3 pt. you probably need to turn that bolt in a little further, but don't tighten it too tight! Just turn it to snug. The steering problem is common in cold weather. Just let the tractor warm up a little before you drive it. This tractor may have the wrong hydraulic fluid in it. It may be a little bit too heavy. This should be like a 10 wt. motor oil or a 10 wt. hydraulic oil. If you feel that it is thicker than that, you might want to consider pumping it out and changing it. I'd also change the filter whether I changed the oil or not. Larry

Oliver 1850

IP: 35.11.129.149

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 10:31:49 AM by Jake

Hi my 1850 has a model number of 285-22469 and a serial number of 183-467-428 what year is it? And what type of oil is supposed to be used in the hydraulics? I think there's automatic transmission fluid in it right now.

Thank You, Jake

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 209.163.7.19

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 07:22:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1850 was built in 1967. Use a 10 weight hydraulic oil or a 10 wt. motor oil. Just use a light weight oil. The automatic transmission fluid can be used, too. It won't hurt it. Larry

S77 fuel pressure

IP: 209.178.190.102

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 08:02:08 PM by Greg

Larry, I have a super 77 diesel that has not been run in at least 8 years. Cleaned out fuel tank, lines, changed all filters, bled primary system, have fuel up to injector pump, but no pressure at head outlet lines. fuel is present at lines but at most has maybe 2 psi at head and injectors. any ideas?

thanks.

Re(1): S77 fuel pressure

IP: 209.163.7.56

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 05:54:37 AM by Larry Harsin

There is probably something sticking in the injection head. I don't know how long you have been trying to get this running, but it may just free up on it's own with fresh fuel in there. Wait a couple of days and try again. If it still won't run, then you are going to have to start taking things apart. It might be that the control unit that goes into the injection head is sticking. Larry

Re(2): S77 fuel pressure

IP: 216.244.14.72

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 08:40:10 AM by Anonymous

Larry, control unit was sticking, disassembled

it and cleaned it..now free..plunger is also free

and moving smoothly. supply pump has 3 psi with

decent flow. no change in output pressure at head.

Re(3): S77 fuel pressure

IP: 209.163.7.6

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 12:55:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Then your injection pump is the problem. Call Central Fuel Injection in Estherville IA 712-362-4200. They specialize in American Bosch Pumps and you can ask them what to do with it. Larry

oliver 77

IP: 204.42.28.157

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 05:42:25 PM by Russ

Larry, I have a 77 that runs ok, but when i hook it to a mower or put it under a load it dies no power dead, take it off the mower and it runs again,

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 209.163.7.56

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 05:49:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Is it a gas or a diesel? It could be that it isn't getting enough fuel. I need to know more about the problem to help solve it. Is it 6 volt or 12 volt? Does it have enough power to run around without the power take-off engaged? I need more information. Larry

88 Type?

IP: 207.74.232.68

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 05:11:51 PM by Rod Sydow

Hello Larry,

I have an 88 diesel and I would like to know if it is a RC, Standard, or Super88. The decal says Super88, but from my reading on the web, this can easily be wrong.

The serial number from the plate on the lower left corner of the dash panel is 4500280. The diesel has an American Bosch Pump. The tractor has a wide front axel and there are two equipment pads on the sides.

>From my web search of the s/n I believe the tractor was made in 1954 and I suspect this is NOT a Super. Any thoughts?

Also, on the s/n panel is a specification # that reads, 88 1942. Does this have any relavance to the type? At first I thought maybe it was the manufacture year, but the s/n would indicate different.

Thank you for any input on my questions.

Regards,

Rod Sydow

Re(1): 88 Type?

IP: 209.163.7.56

Posted on December 9, 2002 at 05:45:04 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a Row Crop, these words (Row Crop) are cast into the rear axle housings. A Standard has smaller rear tires and a fixed tread front axle. Your serial number indicates that it was built in 1954. The 88 1942 does have relavance to the type, but I don't have the codes for it. Larry

hood fo 550

IP: 205.188.208.40

Posted on December 7, 2002 at 07:10:49 PM by John

Hi Larry

Thanks for a great site the info is very helpful. Your 550 looks super, I'm in the process of restoring a 1963 550 I was wondering if you had any info on a Canadian source for the hood , I live in Ontario.

I bought an older 55 and was able to use some common parts but have the 3piece hood and engine block if any is looking for them.

Re(1): hood fo 550

IP: 209.163.7.64

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 07:32:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I need some parts for a S55. I need the piece that goes over the nose and has the Oliver emblem attached and I need the door that fits behind that. If you have these to sell, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com.

For a hood for a 550, I don't know anyone in Ontario who might have one. Tim Smith in Dalton Ohio might have one. Phone: 330-832-9792. It is best to call him in the evenings. Larry

550 parts (Gasoline)

IP: 12.86.27.157

Posted on December 7, 2002 at 06:18:33 PM by mark

I have a 1959 indusrial 550 Oliver, and at the present would like to make steps in restoring. Particularly where to locate engine, mechanical, and electirical parts. First thing needed will be cap, rotor, points & condenser. Any information on locating these parts as well as others would be particularly helpful

Re(1): 550 parts (Gasoline)

IP: 209.163.7.64

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 07:24:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He will have parts etc. 800-320-6224 Larry

77 cam

IP: 209.224.19.167

Posted on December 7, 2002 at 01:52:53 PM by k medchill

I JUST HAD A CAM BUILT UP 10% OVER STOCK AND WAS WOUNDERING IF I TOOK .125 OFF THE HEAD AND HAD FOCTORY LENGTH VALVES IN THE HEAD WOULD I HAVE PROBLEMS? (THE HEAD ISN'T SHAVED YET)

Re(1): 77 cam

IP: 209.163.7.64

Posted on December 8, 2002 at 07:21:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Your machine shop will be able to tell you. Larry

Oliver 1850 w/ 354 Perkins

IP: 35.11.129.149

Posted on December 6, 2002 at 05:36:47 PM by Big Al

Hi I recently bought an Oliver 1850 with the 354 Perkins that came out of a Massey Ferguson 510 combine. I need to get a new dipstick tube for the motor, but I am coming up short on this one. My agco dealer tells me that (the original motor) should've had a screw on dipstick while the guys at the scrap yard say that for the combine it has a little short dipstick. Has anyone ran across this before? I guess I'll have to make a stick if I have to, but I'd rather have the right oil level in my motor.

Thanks,

"Big Al"

Re(1): Oliver 1850 w/ 354 Perkins

IP: 209.163.7.19

Posted on December 7, 2002 at 05:27:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure about this. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He will probably know which dipstick you should have. And he will probably have the one you need. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1850 w/ 354 Perkins

IP: 208.10.124.158

Posted on December 7, 2002 at 07:15:40 PM by Larry from Maryland

The perkins in the oliver has the small dipstick,and so does the one in the 510 combine.Your agco counterman does Not know what he is talking about.Some of the combines had the dipstick brazed to the oil pan, so it would be on the other side,but thats a small one too.

880 year and model

IP: 161.184.192.13

Posted on December 5, 2002 at 01:18:41 AM by Ray

Larry how do determine year and model

type of my 880 diesel?

Re(1): 880 year and model

IP: 209.163.7.91

Posted on December 5, 2002 at 06:45:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Send me the serial number and I can tell you the year it was built. As for the model, I'd like to see a picture of it. Perhaps you can email one to me. Larry

Re(2): 880 year and model

IP: 161.184.202.151

Posted on December 6, 2002 at 00:57:45 AM by Ray

Not sure where to look for the serial

number.I could not find a tag of any-

sort anywhere.I was told it was a 1958,

but the person i bought it from, had

picked it up at an auction in Sask.Canada. so its hard to say.

Re(3): 880 year and model

IP: 209.163.7.83

Posted on December 6, 2002 at 06:16:13 AM by Larry Harsin

The Serial Number Tag should be on the left side of the dash in the area to the left of the hydraulic unit. It should be a metal tag attached there. You can look under the frame on the casting and see if there are any dates cast into the transmission housing. Larry

Re(4): 880 year and model

IP: 204.187.76.3

Posted on December 6, 2002 at 09:27:07 AM by Josh Upton

You can tell if you have an early model by the side panels and decal scheme. If the side panels have a large oval indent in the rear curtain and a long pinstripe indent along the top of the front curtain with decals in them you have either a 58 or a 59. Since it is a diesel you can also tell by the injection pump. If you have an American Bosch pump it is a 58 or a 59. If it has a Roosa Master setup it is a 1960 or later model. Also if it is a 59 it will have helical gears in the transmission. If it is a 58 it will not. As for the model If you have large holes in the frame with 3 mounting pads on each side it is a row crop. If it has only 2 mounting pads it is a standard. I hope I could be of help.

3 pt. won't work

IP: 199.150.177.187

Posted on December 4, 2002 at 11:47:10 AM by Carl

Larry,

Recently my brother bought a 2-70 White. This tractor, I believe, is about the same as a 1655 Oliver. He got the tractor cheap and it runs good, except the three point hitch arms are down and will not move at all when the three point lever is moved. There is no binding at all in the linkage and everything I can see from the outside seems to work okay. I know the hydraulic pump is good because we hooked to a round baler and it will easily raise and lower the tailgate. What would you suggest we should check to try to fix this problem?

Re(1): 3 pt. won't work

IP: 209.163.7.41

Posted on December 4, 2002 at 12:50:08 AM by Larry Harsin

There's a 3/4" bolt head by your right heel (when you are sitting in the seat). It has probably been turned out for one way cylinder operation. Back off the sealing nut and turn it in to tighten it snuggly. Don't get it too tight. This should make your 3 pt. work. It should tell you this in your Operator's Manual. If you don't have one, you can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(2): 3 pt. won't work

IP: 199.150.177.187

Posted on December 4, 2002 at 01:04:30 PM by Carl

Larry,

thanks for the prompt reply, I will try this to see if it works and let you know. I probably won't get to work on it until this weekend.

electrical

IP: 64.158.74.16

Posted on December 3, 2002 at 04:39:42 PM by Wil Thomas

Hello Larry,

My s55 seems to have an electrical problem. The points are sparking only intermittantly. The coil, points, cap, rotor, plug and coil wires are all new.

the battery is also new ( less than a month ) Any ideas? Thanks alot

Wil

Re(1): electrical

IP: 209.163.7.68

Posted on December 3, 2002 at 05:01:20 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a bad connection in your wiring or on your switch somewhere. It will be real hard to find. Larry

Re(2): electrical

IP: 65.56.244.86

Posted on December 4, 2002 at 04:32:37 PM by Anonymous

Thanks Larry, haden't even thought of that. Easiest way to fix it is rewire I guess.. Might just as well, it"ll be better in the long run.

Wil

Re(3): electrical

IP: 209.163.7.91

Posted on December 5, 2002 at 06:49:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Korves Bros. might have a wiring harness that you will need. korves@htc.net or their website is: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

1610 Oliver loader

IP: 137.48.37.230

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 10:45:38 PM by Eric Allen

Larry, I just saw the story about you in the HPOCA mag, very nice. I was curious about this loader. Were there many made? How popular were they? Based on your experience, did they have any trouble spots? I have been looking for one for my 880 and wanted to get the low down.

Thanks in advance

Eric

Re(1): 1610 Oliver loader

IP: 209.163.7.95

Posted on December 3, 2002 at 06:58:15 AM by Larry Harsin

There were quite a number of them made. They were built by Schwartz Mfg. for Oliver. In some areas they were very popular. I don't think they really had trouble spots. There was some frame breakage on some of them, but this is typical of all loader considering how they are used. I'd rate them as good as most other loaders. Larry

Oliver 1600

IP: 64.61.198.253

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 08:53:19 PM by Bill Walton

I'm going to look at an Oliver 1600 gas tractor tomorrow. Is there anything in particular I should look for? It has a live hyd New Idea loader and wide front end with power steering but it does not have a 3 pt, how much of a problem is it to put one on?

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 209.163.7.95

Posted on December 3, 2002 at 06:53:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Putting a 3 pt. on gets very involved. If you have the upper and lower rock shafts, it's not quite so bad, but if you don't it gets pretty involved. Just look at the general condition and how it runs and if it is all there. If you are looking for a 1600 with a loader and 3 pt., there is one on our website that I just finished overhauling. Email me if you are interested. Larry

88 injectors

IP: 216.158.85.91

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 05:16:46 PM by robert loar

Can you tell me what pressure these injectors are suppose to be set at. It has a Bousch pump and injectors. Thanks Bob

Re(1): 88 injectors

IP: 209.163.7.47

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 07:53:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I set them at 1800 lbs. Larry

Re(2): 88 injectors

IP: 216.158.85.62

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 10:24:35 PM by robert loar

thanks for the information.

What is it?

IP: 63.93.26.25

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 03:49:30 PM by Daryl

I'm looking at an Oliver with a 4 Cylinder Gas Engine. Supposedly a VRG155 engine from Waukesha Pierce. Any idea what model of tractor these engines went in, how much HP they produce and whether it's better to look for a diesel?

Thanks,

Daryl

Re(1): What is it?

IP: 209.163.7.47

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 07:52:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. It's about the same size as the S55 or 550. I will need more information. Casting numbers off the engine block or some description. Email us a picture of it. Larry

1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.106.87.159

Posted on December 1, 2002 at 09:48:36 AM by bumpy

I have a 1800C that I would like to tie my loader directly to the hydrualic pump instead of going through the remotes. I have follwed directions by removing the 1/2 plug (right above flow diverter valve and just to the left and behind the fill port)and plugging inside passage with a 3/8 plug. The problem is that outer 1/2 plug is 3/8 on my tractor and there is no inside passage plug off. Im sure Im on the correct plug because Ive seen this done on a 1750. Is there any way to do this on this tractor? Thanks

Re(1): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.11

Posted on December 1, 2002 at 12:07:48 AM by Larry Harsin

On the Hundred Series tractors, it is different than on the Fifty Series tractors. If your hydraulic filter is on the left side of the hydraulic unit below the seat, then the passage that you have to plug is in a different spot than where you are looking. You will need to unbolt the flow divider for the Power Steering and on the left side behind the flow divider is a 1/2" pipe plug with a recessed head for a square socket drive. You'll have to go through there and put a 3/8" plug in and there'll be a 1/2' pipe plug that you will have to remove so the oil will come out to go to the remote valve. A short distance behind where you install the 3/8" plug will be a 1/2" plug where the oil will return to. The distance from the front of the unit to where this plug screws in to is 8 or 10 inches. It's quite a way back in there. When you get the 3/8" plug installed, you will simply reinstall the 1/2" plug you removed and then reinstall the flow divider. Larry

Re(2): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.106.87.170

Posted on December 2, 2002 at 10:43:16 AM by bumpy

Larry, my hydrualic filter is up front between your legs when sitting on the tractor. Everything appears to be the same as the 50 series except the 1/2 plug I am suppossed to take out is 3/8 and there is no inside port. Will the above instructions be the same if my filter is in this location?

Re(3): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.59

Posted on December 3, 2002 at 10:58:02 PM by Larry Harsin

No. Disregard the instructions that I told you. The instructions will be the same as for the 50 series. I will look at one of my tractors in the morning and get back to you on this. Larry

Re(4): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.62

Posted on December 4, 2002 at 05:50:16 AM by Larry Harsin

On the tractors that I have here, it appears that you will have to remove a 1/2" pipe plug. The location is above the power steering flow divider, on the cast iron lid for the hydraulic system, close to the front of the seat frame. The plug faces forward. Remove that plug and see if there is a threaded passage where you can screw a 3/8" pipe plug. If so, to go back into the unit will be close to where the restrictor adjustment is. This is a 1/2" pipe plug also. Larry

Re(5): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.106.87.243

Posted on December 5, 2002 at 10:24:23 AM by bumpy

The outer plug on this tractor is 3/8 and looks to be a 3/8 all the way back past the flow divider valve. All other tractors I have looked at have a 1/2 plug and 3/8 inner passage to plug off just as you describe. I guess I just have an odd ball. Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.

Web Counters