1850 Diesel High Speed No Load flutter

IP: 209.221.240.10 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 10:49:38 AM by Ken Smous

Larry- I just purchased my first (other green) tractor. A 1969 1850 Diesel as I have always loved Olivers but Dad was the other green guy. The question I have is with no load on the motor above idle it seam to flutter (not smooth) as most diesels I'm using do not do this. Is there something I should check out first or am I looking at a pump/injector overhaul. It runs smooth and tons of power with a load on it but take the laod off and it flutters again. My neighbor said all his 1850's did this. Is this normal. By the way its has just over 4000 hours on it.- Thanks again Ken

Re(1): 1850 Diesel High Speed No Load flutter

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 03:46:16 PM by Ron

It's possible the pump timing is a little off, the operator's manual has the timing procedure. I'm assuming the fuel is water-free and you've changed the filters, right? As long as it runs strong and doesn't smoke excessively, I don't think there is anything seriously wrong.

Re(2): 1850 Diesel High Speed No Load flutter

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:16:02 PM by Larry Harsin

That's a common complaint on that tractor. You can ignore it or have the pump and injectors checked out. Then it may still do it. :) Larry

1954 77 diesel

IP: 216.223.177.85 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 04:51:09 PM by Rod Eaton

is there a picture of the orig. way to paint the wheels and grill all red or green in the middle when the wheels are not pressed I have seen them both ways. Thanks again.

Re(1): 1954 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:02:35 AM by Larry Harsin

That's a late fleetline that you are asking about. Check with Lyle Dumont. Email: oliver@lisco.com Possibly he would know where to find a picture. Larry

1850 gas

IP: 64.33.182.91 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 02:32:19 AM by JC(WI)

Larry, I have 1850 lp that I aquired some time ago. It was suppose to have had a valve job done on it. I got it home and changed the wear washer in governor so it was more responsive. It was leaking oil out of pto nd had a bad bearing on out put shaft. So i changed that and I also went up to the power shaft and pulled block out and then replaced O ring in there and fought hard to get block back in and snap ring on. That quit oil leaks at pto. then drove tractor around for awhile and idled it down and was just walking away when it started to labor and slow down and quit. Engine does not want to turn over. Do you have any suggestions where to look for this problem? gov.?, pto shaft?, bearings in engine?, or maybe carbon behind rings from good compression? Like to here what you think. Jerry

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 06:38:11 AM by Ron

Sounds like it lost oil pressure and spun a bearing.

Re(2): 1850 gas

IP: 67.2.242.115 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 09:06:28 AM by Larry Harsin

There are all kinds of things that could have happened. You are going to have to determine which end of the tractor your trouble is on. With the clutch pedal depressed, see if you can turn the transmission input shaft. If you would put a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1 1/8" socket on the nut on the front of the crankshaft pulley and if the engine doesn't want to move at all, there is a good chance that you have a crankshaft bearing siezing up. If you determine that the problem IS in the engine, I'd remove the oil pan and start investigating for a siezed bearing. When you remove the oil pan, look in the bottom of it for silvery type of bearing material. This will give you a clue. Larry

Re(3): 1850 gas

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 02:46:44 PM by Larry from MD

Since you worked on the pto I would isolate that too before removeing the pan.Do this by pulling the long upper pto shaft back enough to clear the splines in the flywheel.Remove the snapring,pull the plug and remove oring,then pull the long shaft.If the engine turns now the pto is the problem.

Re(4): 1850 gas

IP: 64.33.182.79 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 00:48:13 AM by JC(WI)

I was wondering if its possible for the long upper shaft to put enough force on crankshaft from the O ring, Because when I put the plug in, I had to force the snap ring into its groove. So if it can push against crank shaft, then would it seize on flanged main bearing? Thanks for your suggestions. With foot clutch stepped in, I hit the switch and engine still was tight.

Re(5): 1850 gas

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 07:17:26 AM by Ron

If the engine is seized with the clutch in, you have a seized bearing. To determine if it's really seized, do what Larry said, use a breaker bar on the crank pulley and try to turn it over by hand.

1850 overhaul

IP: 4.166.252.191 Posted on January 9, 2005 at 09:29:05 PM by Johnnie T.

Larry I just did complete eng overhaul on my 68 1850 gas. New zenith carb, mallory dist. with elect.ign clutch, and hyd. pump. I have 7 hrs. on eng pulling lite disc. in 4 grear low range. The governor was cleaned and appeared to be in good shape. Question I have is the govenor does not seem to be kicking when going up small hills either in road grear or when pulling disc. the book tells me how to set linkage with a marvel schebler carb.,was wondering if I can use same adj to set linkage on zenith carb. Also what would be the settings on idle mixture and load needles on zenith carb. Sorry for long drawn out question hope it makes sense to U and Thanks in advance. Enjoy your website.

Re(1): 1850 overhaul

IP: 4.166.252.191 Posted on January 9, 2005 at 09:33:10 PM by Johnnie T.

on same tractor how many hrs would U recomend to run for good breakin. Been pulling lite disc in 4 grear low range at app. 2000 rpm's. Thanks again

Re(2): 1850 overhaul

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 06:43:27 AM by Ron

Anytime you use a different carburetor you risk having to play with the governor/throttle linkage adjustment to get it right. Same with the mixture adjustments. If I had the original Marvel-Schebler carburetor I'd get a $25 rebuild kit for it and you'd be back in business in no time.

Re(3): 1850 overhaul

IP: 67.2.242.115 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 08:56:40 AM by Larry Harsin

The instructions for the adjustments of the carb to the governor, should be the same. For the adjustments on the idle and load needles, I would start with 1 turn open on the idle and 2 turns open on the load needle and proceed from there. As far as break in of the engine, I would just go ahead and use it like normal. I think you'll get better seating of the rings if you put the tractor to work. You should be able to operate the tractor at the rated rpm's as specified in your operator's manual. Larry

Re(4): 1850 overhaul

IP: 4.166.159.231 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 11:12:15 PM by Johnnie T

The bearings on the throttle shaft where bad and could not remove them on the marvel schibel going by the book to set gov. but cant get high no load speed to come down to 2650 rpm wants to stay around 2800 rpm, now with lite load it seems to start building up rpm,s what rpm would U run engine pulling lite to medium loads not heavy plowing. Thanks for your help.

Re(5): 1850 overhaul

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 07:57:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't like to exceed 2500 with that engine. There must be something binding up or something. Check and see if the bumper screw is screwed in too far, causing it to overspeed. Larry

Oliver 70 backhoe

IP: 64.126.180.14 Posted on January 9, 2005 at 02:31:52 PM by Jack Skille

For Christmas my wife bought me an Oliver 70---I dable at tractor restoration and plan to restore this one. It came with a Ware Loader Model C ser.# 143 and a backhoe. All have been painted yellow and on the backhoe is stenciled "Oliver". Is it possible that Oliver made this backhoe? The tractor is ser # 310240 wide front end 6 cyl. Can you also tell me what make engine this is? Thanks, Jack in Idaho

Re(1): Oliver 70 backhoe

IP: 67.2.242.115 Posted on January 11, 2005 at 08:50:39 AM by Larry Harsin

If it has a Ware loader on it, it is a strong chance that Ware built the backhoe. I don't believe Oliver built that. Ware built a lot of things for Oliver. According to your ser #, your 70 was built in 1944. It has a Continental engine. You may be able to obtain more info from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net They have "build cards" for some of the tractors, but I don't know if they go back that far or not. Larry

60 Oliver Presure Plate

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on January 6, 2005 at 02:33:16 PM by Joe B

How many different clutch and presure plates are there for the 60 and where can I buy them

Re(1): 60 Oliver Presure Plate

IP: 67.2.249.113 Posted on January 6, 2005 at 09:52:08 PM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, all of the 60's use the same clutch assembly. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 60 Oliver Presure Plate

IP: 152.163.100.66 Posted on January 7, 2005 at 10:54:58 PM by joe b

Larry, Thanks a bunch for the info that gives me a place to start. JoeB

880 gas

IP: 64.24.241.151 Posted on January 4, 2005 at 10:12:45 PM by Mike in Ohio

Hi Larry-- My 880 has been running fine. I started it a couple of weeks ago and it didn't want to start. After a normal amount of choke it popped and blew the muffler apart (very loud pop!!). I haven't replaced the muffler yet as it repeats this each time I try to start it now. Also, it cranks fine until it pops then it will hardly turn over. What do you think? Thanks--Mike

Re(1): 880 gas

IP: 69.179.30.133 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:19:25 AM by Ron

Sounds like a hung or badly burnt exhaust valve. I'd run a compression test to see which valve it is.

Re(2): 880 gas

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:36:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is trying to fire the wrong cylinder. It may need a new distributor cap. If that doesn't correct it, there are other possibilities such as a valve stuck open or a push rod jumped off. Larry

super 77 row crop

IP: 142.177.83.48 Posted on January 4, 2005 at 04:38:34 PM by bill wood

the tractor turns over but will not fire. put new wiring on but cannot see what starting problem could be. can u offer any suggestions.

Re(1): super 77 row crop

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:32:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Check the condition of the ignition points and condenser. Make sure the current is flowing to the points. Larry

Re(2): super 77 row crop

IP: 69.179.30.133 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 09:25:52 AM by Ron

The easy way is to work backwards. Verify you have spark at the plugs. If so, the firing order is wrong. If not, then check back to make sure you have spark at the coil. If so, the plug wires are wrong/bad. If not, then check to see that the coil is getting a full 12v. If not, you have a wiring or ballast problem. If so, then you have to check the point gap in the distributor and make sure the points actually open and close. If so, then replace the condensor. If she still won't fire, then the primary wire from the coil to points might be broken, test with a test light as I've seen them broken internally.

Re(3): super 77 row crop

IP: 65.6.24.172 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 09:03:40 PM by George

Change the rotor button. I know it seems cliche',but this cost me a pull one night. Changed buttons and ran well the next class.

oliver 1750

IP: 65.168.224.147 Posted on January 3, 2005 at 08:51:31 PM by Ryan Wilhelm

I have hyd oil getting into my trans/final drive oil. What seals are out?

Re(1): oliver 1750

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on January 4, 2005 at 09:45:55 AM by CEB

If a 1750 is the same as a 1650, which I believe it is, then there is a pan that holds the hydraulic oil. It is under the seat assembly. What you most likely have is hole in this pan or possibly a bad pan gasket. Either way, you will have to remove the seat assembly and then pull the whole deck top off along with all the valves and casting under the seat(you will have to disconnect the 3 pt. arms also). It will take a hoist as it is a quite heavy unit. Then you turn it upside down after it is out and you will see the pan. Larry, please correct me if I am in error.

Re(2): oliver 1750

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:30:08 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1650 doesn't have the draft control rod going through the pan like the 1750 does. Otherwise, what CEB is saying is right. On the 1750 a hole in the pan is the 2nd thing to look for. The first place I would check is the draft control rod that goes down through the reservoir - the seal on that is probably leaking. Larry

Re(3): oliver 1750

IP: 4.166.252.191 Posted on January 9, 2005 at 09:38:19 PM by Johnnie T

My 1850 was doing the same thing pan was ok what I did was replace the hyd pump so far problem solved.

1953 - 88D Question

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on January 3, 2005 at 08:45:17 PM by Dave S

Larry I have a 1953 88D that has me throwing my hands up into the air. It always has started hard since I got it, but ran ok, it actually dynoed at 65 hp. The injection pump had the seal buy the throttle rod leaking and I had that and the injectors done last year. At the same time I had the head redone because of some cracks and the valves needed some attention. Ever since it has been starting even harder and not running that great. I retimed the pump and checked the valves again over the weekend. It seems to start better considering the temps over the weekend in here in Eastern Iowa. I pulled off the exhaust manifold to see which cyliners were giving off the white some since it wouold not go away even with cardborad over the raditor. There was also no throttle responce over half way. Cylinders #1& #2 would constantly give off white smoke and below half throttle # 3 would ocasionally. Tried changing fuel filters to see if that was limiting the fuel but that did not help either. I have cleaned the energy cells when the head was off and the cylinders looked good with no scoring or wear at the top from the rings then also. Sorry for rambling. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1953 - 88D Question

IP: 69.179.21.68 Posted on January 3, 2005 at 10:08:22 PM by Ron

All the symptoms of low compression. The spec is in the manual and you can buy/rent a diesel compression gauge or have a mechanic do the test for you.

Re(2): 1953 - 88D Question

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:25:35 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have done the valves, injectors and energy cells, you may have bad rings on the cylinders that are smoking white. They may be stuck or broken rings. Does the tractor start harder when it is warm? or when it is cold? My thinking is if the tractor starts harder when it's warm, the injection head on the pump is probably worn too much. However, if your tractor is still smoking white off of certain cylinders after it is warmed up, I would be inclined to think you have problems with low compression on those cylinders. Larry

steering wheel

IP: 12.21.155.20 Posted on January 2, 2005 at 11:06:05 AM by JERROLD

I HAVE A 1755 THAT I NEED TO TAKE THE STEERING WHEEL OFF. INEED TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL WITHOUT TEARING IT UP.I CANNOT FIND A STEERING WHEEL PULLER FOR A TRACTOR.ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Re(1): steering wheel

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on January 2, 2005 at 05:47:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use an air chisel on the bottom side of the steering wheel, after removing the nut. I havn't removed one on a 55 series tractor. Larry

1855

IP: 64.33.182.62 Posted on January 2, 2005 at 04:01:46 AM by JC(WI)

I have an 1855 with a dropped sleeve in the engine. Is it worth fixing the block, getting a different block or different engine. And if so what should I drop into it? I have been wondering about an engine like a AC model 3500 or??? New cummins are out of my price range. What are your suggestions???Thanks Jerry

Re(1): 1855

IP: 67.2.242.104 Posted on January 2, 2005 at 10:51:04 AM by Larry Harsin

A used block is over $1000. By the time you go to all of that expense, you may want to replace your engine. If your engine is not rebuildable, I would suggest checking into a used Cummins engine, such as one from a salvaged out Dodge pickup. These engines can be bought for $1500 - $4000, depending on condition. There are adapter kits for putting them into the Oliver tractors. Contact Cummins, Cedar Rapids IA 319-366-7537 or 319-635-2933. Larry

exhaust

IP: 207.231.118.117 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 08:34:28 AM by corre k

I was wondering dose a 1650 desiel need the muffer for it i would like to make a chrome stack or polished stainless but i dont what to effect the motor back pressure if it needs it ps HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

Re(1): exhaust

IP: 67.2.242.43 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 09:39:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I honestly don't know. I don't think it would hurt anything. Larry

74 mounted corn picker on 1600-1800

IP: 165.139.155.111 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 02:13:18 AM by Jim

If a fellow was to mount a 74 mtd. picker on a tractor, how would a 1600 or 1800 work? Were they mounted on larger tractors as well? I am just throwing around ideas at this point. I own neither, but I know where there is a nice 74 that may be purchased for a song and I have always thought I would like to own a "newer" Oliver. Just to pick about 15 acres for cow feed and take to some shows. A rig like that would complement the old 83 picker in the shed and not "wear it out" quite as fast. Any ideas or hints? Thank you in advance. Re(1): 74 mounted corn picker on 1600-1800

IP: 67.2.242.43 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 09:36:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd opt to put the picker on a 1600 or even a S88. I had an 1800 that had a picker on it and the frame of the tractor by the engine was wide enough that it caused interference with the gathering chains. My pick would be S88, an 880 or a 1600. Any of these would work just fine. Larry

Re(2): 74 mounted corn picker on 1600-1800

IP: 65.6.25.158 Posted on January 1, 2005 at 02:18:26 PM by George

We have one on a 770, will pick up to third gear in moderate corn. Real good corn or a heavy wagon, usually second.

cost

IP: 12.21.152.22 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 00:21:57 AM by Brian

Larry, could you tell me what a 1955 super 77 diesel cost when it was new in 1955, (retail) Thanks, Brian

Re(1): cost

IP: 67.2.242.43 Posted on December 31, 2004 at 09:32:25 AM by Larry Harsin

In 1955, a S77RC diesel, was $2820 for the base tractor. Then you had to put on the extras like live PTO and the hydraulic system. The tractor equipped to go to the field was more like $3400 - $3500. Larry

New clutch for Super 55

IP: 70.69.82.62 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 03:33:41 PM by Super 55

I have removed my engine for a rebuild and need to replace the clutch. My old clutch is a 3 spring, 9 1/4" clutch. I hear that they were replaced with a 6 spring 10" clutch. Will that bolt right onto my tractor? Where is a good source for a clutch?

Re(1): New clutch for Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.12 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 10:37:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it will fit, but check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have the parts that you need. Larry

Re(2): New clutch for Super 55

IP: 65.168.225.225 Posted on January 13, 2005 at 01:31:40 PM by Ryan Wilhelm

Look on your flywheel if there are two sets of holes for the pressure plate to bolt to, more than likley the outside holes are for the 10" clucth. Also it is easier to split a super 55 to do the clucth than pulling motor.

no air stack cap

IP: 69.29.224.250 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 11:57:53 PM by Jerry Wood

I just purchased a 550 that was last used for an apple orchard. The air stack cap is actually below the hood and not extended up as seen in a "normal" 550. Was this a custom fix or did Oliver sell them like this? If not custom, should I extend this up again? Re(1): no air stack cap

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 01:34:20 AM by Larry Harsin

That cap was put under the hood so that branches would not get caught on it. I imagine the Operator did this himself. I'd reccommend that you put it back the normal way. Larry

Re(2): no air stack cap

IP: 69.29.198.120 Posted on December 30, 2004 at 00:12:14 AM by Jerry Wood

Thanks, What year were the 550's produced? Can you put front loaders on them?

Re(3): no air stack cap

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on January 5, 2005 at 08:58:25 AM by Larry Harsin

They began producing the 550 in the fall of 1958 and continued making them through 1974. Yes, you can put front loaders on them. If you do, I would reccommend that you have power steering. I wouldn't put a loader on one without it. Jackson Power Steering in Jetmore KS makes "Add On" power steerings. Their website is: www.jacksonpowersteering.com Larry

sparkplug

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 10:43:24 PM by buddy

i recently got a 1250 oliver what type plugs does this tractor need it it a gasoline 4cyl 1967 i live in ga.

Re(1): sparkplug

IP: 67.2.249.214 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 10:32:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 gas uses a 14 mm L90C Champion sparkplug. It has a .025 gap. Larry

carburetor Grease Fitting

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 08:11:09 PM by David Terry

Larry, First of all, this is a duplicate of a posting on the YT discussion board, so you may have already seen it. Anyway, I just bought a 770 and it was leaking a little gas through the carb so I thought it needed a kit. When I took it off it had a grease fitting on the bottom. Is this correct, and if so what kind of grease do I put in it. I can tell by the fitting it hasn't had anything for a long time. The tag says TSX 755 which should be correct for the tractor.

Re(1): carburetor Grease Fitting

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 01:28:46 AM by Larry Harsin

DO NOT GREASE THIS FITTING!!! This fitting has 1/8" pipe plug threads on it and someone has simply used it to plug the hole. Next time you are in town, pick up an 1/8" pipe plug at the hardware store and discard that grease fitting before someone does grease your carb! Larry

Re(2): carburetor Grease Fitting

IP: 64.12.116.201 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 08:40:17 AM by David Terry

Larry, Thanks, I knew the grease fitting didn't look right. It fit good though.

660 PTO assy.

IP: 4.238.103.184 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 06:58:01 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake

Hi Larry, I'm putting back together the pto assy. that was out of the tractor when I received it. The parts book shows a adapter pt# 101414-a ( item #99 on page 10-62)that I don't have. Should it be there? Thanks again and happy new year, Tom

Re(1): 660 PTO assy.

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 01:23:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it should be there. If you need one, email me. I think I have one. Happy New Year to you, also. Larry

88 Diesel frost plugs

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 08:47:06 AM by Billybob-Ia.

Larry, thank you so much for the insite, on the frost plugs under the valve cover, two of the three were seeping. Thank you again, HAVE A GOOD NEW YEAR. Billybob-Ia.

Re(1): 88 Diesel frost plugs

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on December 29, 2004 at 01:19:07 AM by Larry Harsin

You're welcome!! Glad we could help! Happy New Year!! Larry

Lull Forklift/ Oliver

IP: 69.29.214.33 Posted on December 27, 2004 at 10:06:34 PM by Larry James

Hi Trying to identify my new tractor, see picture. Looks like a 770 or 880? It says Lull Hi-lift loader 7B 6 Cyl. gas engine says oliver on manifold. I need a flywheel ring gear, the flywheel might not be the Oliver type because it has a torque convertor instead of a clutch? any info appreciated thanks

Re(1): Lull Forklift/ Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.127 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 00:18:03 AM by Larry Harsin

It's probably a S77 or a 770 power unit. I think it might be best to contact Lull Mfg. in St. Paul MN to get more info. Any info that you can get off of the tractor and loader, such as info from the serial number plates etc, would be good to have in hand when you call them. Larry

Marvel Carb rebuild parts

IP: 66.82.9.30 Posted on December 26, 2004 at 11:14:38 PM by David Wells

Larry: I need to rebuild the carb for my 770 with the Marvel. Is there a source of parts, or anyone who can do it. The throttle bushing is worn.

Re(1): Marvel Carb rebuild parts

IP: 69.179.18.75 Posted on December 27, 2004 at 05:23:28 AM by Ron

Any AGCO dealer can sell you a nice rebuild kit but none of them come with bushings. Any carburetor repair shop should be able to replace the bushing and/or repair the throttle shaft if necessary.

Re(2): Marvel Carb rebuild parts IP: 67.2.249.127

Posted on December 28, 2004 at 00:12:33 AM by Larry Harsin

If a new throtle shaft doesn't help, send it to Denny's Carb Shop. His website is: www.dennyscarbshop.com Larry

hard startin

IP: 172.151.178.78 Posted on December 26, 2004 at 08:55:39 PM by WAYNE

I have a super 88 diesel that starts hard. Have to use either to start even after ithas been started. Misses and smokes white when cold. When it warms up it dosent smoke or miss, But lack power. Compression is between 220 to 260 lbs of compression. Is this a problem in the fuel system or engine ? This tractor sat for 10 years and was lock up. I had the head done and new injectors, but nothing with injector pump.

Re(1): hard startin

IP: 69.179.18.75 Posted on December 27, 2004 at 05:19:24 AM by Ron

Check the service manual to be sure but the compression seems way too low. This will cause all the problems you're having.

Re(2): hard startin

IP: 65.6.36.16 Posted on December 27, 2004 at 09:40:19 PM by George

The head on the injection pump may be worn out. I know this is expensive to rebuild if you can find a shop with the parts to rebuild. I have sent off a couple and it was close to 700 each time, but it sure does help the starting.

Re(3): hard startin

IP: 67.2.249.127 Posted on December 28, 2004 at 00:04:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you have low compression and that is your main problem. I would check the tolerances on the sleeves and pistons and replace the worn parts. (Overhaul) Larry

whining noise no matter what gear I'm in

IP: 24.15.157.18 Posted on December 24, 2004 at 03:35:39 PM by Andy Peffers

I have a 1958 Oliver 880 Diesel. While driving forward slow or fast, up hill or on flat ground I hear a load whining noise. But if I'm going fast down hill the noise goes away, at that point it seems like the weight of the tractor is pulling forward instead of pushing or holding the weight of the tractor back as in slower speeds. What do you think it is?

Re(1): whining noise no matter what gear I'm in

IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on December 25, 2004 at 11:58:04 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1958 has a spur gear transmission and it is prone to whine, compared to the later design. However, I'm not saying your's is o.k. If you want to check it out, I would look for a loose bevel pinion shaft or something else loose in the drive train to be causing this noise. It would probably be wise to check it out. You'll have to remove the lid or the hydraulic unit from the top of the trans to have a look. You may even find a bad or rough bearing. Larry

Oliver Plow ID

IP: 4.248.252.187 Posted on December 23, 2004 at 10:42:23 PM by Mike Church

Good Evening Larry & Happy Holidays! I have a 4 bottom Oliver plow that the only number I can find is on the housing that the rear wheel slides up and down - Casting no: 217 810 B. Any ideas? Thanks & have a Merry Christmas. R/ Mike

Re(1): Oliver Plow ID

IP: 67.2.248.225 Posted on December 24, 2004 at 00:05:28 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably a 4441. Does the plow have a pipe across the top of the plow? Does the furrow wheel steer? Larry

Re(2): Oliver Plow ID

IP: 4.248.255.128 Posted on December 24, 2004 at 01:29:22 PM by Mike Church

Sure does, on both counts. The base color is green, however the coulters are yellow and one plow is red. Some replacement parts perhaps? How can I determine the size of the plows; 14", 16", etc? Thanks for the quick response. R/ Mike

Re(3): Oliver Plow ID

IP: 67.2.248.214 Posted on December 24, 2004 at 10:10:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Measure from the side of the plow beam to the matching side of the next plow beam, to determine size. Larry

Re(4): Oliver Plow ID

IP: 4.248.248.240 Posted on December 25, 2004 at 06:44:00 PM by Mike Church

Thanks & Merry Christmas!

550 backhoe

IP: 4.157.29.98 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 11:38:00 PM by todd

Can any one identify this backhoe. would like to know who it is made by and possibly model. the loader says its an L100 and not sure who makes it either.

Re(1): 550 backhoe

IP: 67.2.242.19 Posted on December 23, 2004 at 09:20:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Both the backhoe and the loader should have a tag on them somewhere that would tell you who built them. It should be someplace on the mainframe, normally around the area of the controls. Larry

Re(2): 550 backhoe

IP: 209.105.159.247 Posted on December 24, 2004 at 08:03:13 PM by todd

The loader is an L-100. don't know anything about it and can't seem to locate anything on it. The bachoe only has 2 rivets where the plate used to be. The rack gear on the swing cylinder,idler gear and gear on the upper pivot pin seem to be unique to this maufacturer. The white dealers in my area are white dealers and seem to care less about olivers. Had this been a 1010 the white dealers would love to assist me. I'm hoping someone on an oliver forum has seen hoes with this type of swing setup. Seems more like its a wagner like on case 530's.

Pulling the engine on a Super 55

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 08:05:58 PM by Super 55

Larry, this may sound like a dumb question, but when I lift out the engine, I can just use a regular engine hoist attached to the outer two head bolts,right? I was looking at my manual and it says to use the eye bolt in one of the cylinder head bolts. I don't see how that attaches. I think I actually have the lifting eyebolt. It was mounted in the front pad of the tractor.

Re(1): Pulling the engine on a Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 09:57:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you can do it either way. Use your own discretion on it. Larry

Wakesha rebuild kits

IP: 68.145.108.229 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 03:48:46 PM by alberta dave

I have seen numerous posts regarding the need for replacing all bolts when rebuilding an engine. Does a typical rebuild kit come with new bolts? If it is conventional wisdom to replace bolts during a rebuild why do kit manufacturers not supply the required bolts? I recently redressed the diesil engine in my VW Golf and the kit was complete with gaskets and new Head and rod bolts. I have a 283 D that I will be ordering a kit for soon, any recommendations on whose kit I should order

Re(1): Wakesha rebuild kits

IP: 69.179.2.14 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 05:14:56 PM by Ron

Bolts add a lot to the price and many tractor owners just don't want to pay for them. Valu-Bilt has good kits at good prices.

Re(2): Wakesha rebuild kits

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 09:53:57 PM by Larry Harsin

On the Waukesha 283, I havn't found it necessary to replace the bolts. However, you may want to consider replacing the connecting rod bolts. I, too, would reccommend Valu-Bilt kits or checking with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, to compare prices. Larry

tuning up my super55

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 09:35:33 AM by BUTCH COULTER

i was getting ready to tune up my 1957 super 55 oliver which would be the best sparkplug also i was going to put a new hot coil on it and 8mm plug wires. will that make it running better or is it a waste of money and time thank you butch coulter

Re(1): tuning up my super55

IP: 69.179.2.14 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 05:10:20 PM by Ron

A hot coil and 8mm wires will help only if you increase the plug gap. It might help enough for you to notice, and it might not. I'd stay with the recommended plug and gap and replace the plug wires with good quality regular wires and use dielectric silicone grease on both ends of the wires.

Re(2): tuning up my super55

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 22, 2004 at 09:49:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The spark plug that I would use would be a D16 or UD16 Champion or an 87 Commercial AC plug. I'd put on the 7 mm wires like the original ones were. Larry

Re(3): tuning up my super55

IP: 207.144.98.226 Posted on December 23, 2004 at 08:29:46 PM by J. Mash

THE UD16 CHAMPION WORKS GOOD OM MY 550.

oliver 28-44/90 manifold

IP: 69.242.146.131 Posted on December 18, 2004 at 11:20:37 PM by Chris Simmons

Do you have an Oliver 28-44 or 90 exhaust manifold or do you know of anyone who does? Also how much can i expect to pay for one?

Re(1): oliver 28-44/90 manifold

IP: 67.2.248.59 Posted on December 18, 2004 at 11:43:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I have one for a gas engine. It will not work on a kerosene engine. If this is what you want, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com. I have no idea where you would find a kerosene one. Larry

cleaning energy cells

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on December 16, 2004 at 09:50:36 PM by Larry

Will cleaning energy cells improve the starting of the engine?

Re(1): cleaning energy cells

IP: 67.2.248.228 Posted on December 17, 2004 at 06:56:35 AM by Larry Harsin

It can. Larry

1655 overhaul question

IP: 64.33.200.38 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 11:21:14 PM by CEB

Hi Larry, I am in the process of overhauling my 1655 diesel. I've been told that I should replace the rod bolts & nuts. Why would I need to do this? The old ones look fine. I can understand the need to replace all the head bolts with new ones as they are larger & longer bolts with a fairly large amount of torque applied to properly hold the head down. The head bolts could be stretched as a result. Rod bolts are only 3/8" bolts with about 45-55 ft. lbs of torque applied. I can only find new rod bolts at the AGCO dealer and they are quite pricey. What do think? Do you replace them when you do overhaul jobs?

Re(1): 1655 overhaul question

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on December 16, 2004 at 00:37:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I think on that particular engine, you should consider replacing the rod bolts because they have been improved. If you are comfortable with the condition of the ones you have, let your conscience be your guide. Larry

Re(1): 1655 overhaul question

IP: 69.179.30.245 Posted on December 16, 2004 at 08:32:20 AM by Ron

All bolts are designed to stretch when torqued. This is how they generate clamping force. Yes, when doing a rebuild, all bolts should be replaced. AGCO is not the only place that sells them. Any large industrial supply house can get them. Do not ask for "Oliver rod bolts". Describe the bolt by it's characteristics. You might try ARP, I think they are in CA, as they make nearly every bolt/nut ever used in any engine and are of very high quality. They should be able to tell you who sells their bolts in your area.

Re(2): 1655 overhaul question

IP: 64.33.200.38 Posted on December 16, 2004 at 08:34:13 PM by CEB

Thanks for the replies, maybe I will check into some aftermarket sources for new bolts.

energy cells

IP: 66.103.168.130 Posted on December 14, 2004 at 03:36:53 PM by Bob Elliott

Larry, Pulling out the energy cells call for a special tool with 11/16-20 threads. Of course no one carries a bolt that size that I could manufacture a puller. Have you successfully used any other method to get the energy cells out to clean them?

Re(1): energy cells

IP: 69.179.30.245 Posted on December 14, 2004 at 07:00:01 PM by Ron

Any industrial supply or large machine shop has them. Check a "big city" phone book.

Re(2): energy cells

IP: 68.47.4.66 Posted on December 14, 2004 at 08:26:14 PM by David

Try J.A. Stafford in Augusta GA. They have any type of bolt you can imagine. (Strictly nut and bolt warehouse)

Re(3): energy cells

IP: 67.2.248.186 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 00:32:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a regular "puller". I think it was from Owatonna Tool Co. in Owatonna MN. Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(4): energy cells

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 01:18:05 PM by Larry from MD

I have a puller a friend made for me.He was a machinest and cut the threads on his lathe.

1550 Hyrdapower Question

IP: 199.98.200.190 Posted on December 14, 2004 at 12:46:57 PM by Alan

I bought a gas 1550 w/ Hyrdapower last summer. When you push in the clutch when not in hydrapower. the engine disengages fine but the tractor "locks up" for a couple of seconds and you can't shift out of the gear you're in and if you're on an incline the tractor doesn't roll. After a couple of seconds it "frees up" and you can move the shifter to another gear and the tractor will start to roll. I've not tried to see if the same happens when the Hydrapower is engaged. Is there a problem with the Hydrapower unit? I don't think it matters but the tractor has a loader.

Re(1): 1550 Hyrdapower Question

IP: 67.2.248.186 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 00:29:27 AM by Larry Harsin

That is the nature of the unit. Whenever it binds up, simply pull the lever up to the low side, and it will free up. This is the way the unit was designed. Another thing you can do is to try to get the tractor out of gear before it quits moving. As soon as it quits moving, it will lock up. Larry

Re(2): 1550 Hyrdapower Question

IP: 216.238.207.135 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 06:36:56 AM by Alan

Thanks, I was afraid I was in for some costly repair, Thanks again, Happy Holidays!

Super 44 Main Bearings

IP: 4.244.66.46 Posted on December 12, 2004 at 07:57:41 PM by Jared Jeffries

Hello, Thanks for any information you can provide. Rebuilding a Continental F140 engine and have found all the parts I'll be needing EXCEPT for Main bearings...The crankshaft has been ground down .010 so I will need oversized bearings of .010 If you know of any source for some main bearings, PLEASE let me know. This little flathead motor was in REALLY bad shape, locked up beyond help and we're starting to get it back together... Thanks for help, Jared Jeffries Jasper, MO FFA Advisor

Re(1): Super 44 Main Bearings

IP: 67.2.249.38 Posted on December 13, 2004 at 10:40:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Ollie Schaefer at Greenville IL. He's a former Oliver Dealer. Email: olliesch@papadocs.com Phone: 618-664-3050. Larry

Gas oliver 770 air stack filter/cap

IP: 67.36.63.77 Posted on December 12, 2004 at 04:42:07 PM by Eric

Larry, I have been working on an Oliver 770 for a horse farm. They used a tin cup to cover the airstack and I'm trying to get a replacement cap for this. Do you have or know where I can find one? I don't know if I'm calling it by the right name or not but it is hard to find one on the internet when I use a general search for "Oliver 770 parts" please help if'n you can

Re(1): Gas oliver 770 air stack filter/cap

IP: 67.2.249.38 Posted on December 13, 2004 at 10:36:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Ask for an air intake cap. Larry

1550 center shaft

IP: 24.52.134.202 Posted on December 11, 2004 at 08:24:07 AM by Brandon

I have a 1550 oliver that the seal or gasket on the back of the hydropower is leaking. I am not sure but poeple tell me that there is a shaft that goes from the pto through the rearend to the motor. If that is true then how hard is it to take that out to fix the leak?Thanks Brandon

Re(1): 1550 center shaft

IP: 69.40.157.53 Posted on December 11, 2004 at 10:45:56 PM by Ethan

Unbolt the bolts that hold PTO housing and just pull it out

Re(2): 1550 center shaft

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on December 12, 2004 at 01:32:10 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the cover on the rear of the tractor, and remove the 3 bolts that hold the retainer ahead of the PTO clutch. Then you can remove the PTO drive shaft assembly. After doing this, you can unbolt the engine with the hydra-power unit attached, and lift the whole thing up out of the tractor. Larry

Old Style 88 Carb ?

IP: 64.85.221.30 Posted on December 10, 2004 at 06:08:50 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry. How have you been? I have a question about my old style 88. When I bought it it had a Marvel-Schebler #374 carburetor on it. It runs fine with this on it but it also came with an extra carb and it is a M.S. #181 with a date tag that says 10-47. I think that this is the right carb for it. What do you think? Is there any differences in these carbs as far as performance? The engine in this tractor has an overbore of 3and 3/4 inches. Thank you.

Re(1): Old Style 88 Carb ?

IP: 67.2.249.154 Posted on December 11, 2004 at 00:18:17 AM by Larry Harsin

My information says that the 374 is the proper carb. If it works, I would leave it on the tractor. We're doing fine. Looking forward to seeing family for the holidays. Larry

Re(2): Old Style 88 Carb ?

IP: 64.85.221.173 Posted on December 11, 2004 at 04:35:36 AM by Jason Epperson

I was just wondering what the #181 would fit if it wasn't for this 88. Is it any bigger than the 374 or smaller. Just curious?

Re(3): Old Style 88 Carb ?

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on December 12, 2004 at 01:26:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I looked it up and I couldn't find it. I would guess it is probably smaller, but I am not sure. It could possibly be a carb for a KD (a tractor that burns kerosene distillate). Larry

hydraulic arms for 88

IP: 63.155.232.7 Posted on December 9, 2004 at 11:11:55 PM by Wayne Miley

I am curently redoing an oliver 88 tractor. It iis the only tractor I have to do all of my work with. I was wondering if you had or could locate for me a hydraulic arm kit for this tractor? If not, I understand completely. Thanks for your time and efforts. Wayne Miley

Re(1): hydraulic arms for 88

IP: 67.2.248.226 Posted on December 10, 2004 at 00:08:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I need a better discription of what you are looking for. Do you need a hydraulic system for your tractor? Does your tractor have a mechanical power lift? Larry

Re(2): hydraulic arms for 88

IP: 63.155.232.88 Posted on December 11, 2004 at 04:35:26 PM by Wayne, April & Isaac

yes, the tractor has hydraulics. I am looking for a set of arms for the back of the tractor, for hauling round bales. My brothers tractor has the only set that I have seen. Iheard there was a set in the fastline, but was unable to find them.

Re(3): hydraulic arms for 88

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on December 12, 2004 at 01:36:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Saginaw County Tractor Parts and ask for a 3 point hitch assembly for your tractor. Phone: 810-638-5787. Their website is: www.saginawcountytractor.com Larry

60 Fanbelt

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on December 8, 2004 at 07:50:25 PM by Terry

After installing a new H-372 Fan belt on my 60 it still is way to loose and has 2-2 1/2" of slack instead of 3/4 to 1" As you know the lower pulley has an adjustable sleeve that moves along a slot to make your adjustments. This is to the end and has no more available to compensate. Is there a ever so slightly shorter belt to fit this available or on the other hand a slightly wider belt would accomplish same? Or maybe a slightly larger diameter upper pulley or slightly narrower so belt would ride higher? Or any other ideas to solve?

Re(1): 60 Fanbelt

IP: 67.2.248.23 Posted on December 9, 2004 at 06:40:18 AM by Larry Harsin

That's a tough one. You probably have a little wear on both the top and bottom shivs. I would take the H-372 belt and go to an automotive belt supply house and see if they have something shorter that will work. Larry

Re(2): 60 Fanbelt

IP: 69.179.30.245 Posted on December 9, 2004 at 06:46:50 AM by Ron

The correct width belt will ride near flush with the top of the pulley groove. To get the correct length, adjust the bottom pulley to its most slack position. Then use a cloth measuring tape around the pulleys at the outer most diameter to get the correct length. Next, take the measurements to a NAPA store. All their belts are made by Gates and they have the largest selection. If not in stock, they are usually happy to order one for you. Note that NAPA may have to convert the belt length in inches you provide to centimeters... in other words, the belt they sell you will have its length in centimeters, not inches, stamped on it.

Re(3): 60 Fanbelt

IP: 152.163.100.67 Posted on December 15, 2004 at 09:42:08 AM by Terry

Just wanted to post a followup to my original question and to the answers posted in this forum. Both of these gentlemen were right on. Thanks! As I was able to talk with a representative from Gates via email and he sent me a chart depicting the measurements available on the belts that they sell for "trucks". Gates number TR22329 in this case is 3/4" shorter than the factory H-372 belt and worked for my application just perfectly allowing me to get the adjustment needed for proper tension. Not saying this will work for everyone but was certainly good advice and tips for my "60" project. Thanks again for help.

Oliver 70 water pump

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on December 7, 2004 at 11:51:10 PM by L:arry K

I have the same problem as the other gentleman with a water leak. Will using a zerk to keep gun grease in the water pump be a vialble solution? I would think that the heat of the coolant would keep the grease flowing to lubricate the bearings, yet prevent the leaks. I cannot remember any other tractor having an oil drip lubrication system.

Re(1): Oliver 70 water pump

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on December 8, 2004 at 08:29:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Gun grease doesn't work on Oliver 70 water pumps. I have tried it. I would repair the water pump as the shop manual says. Larry

3 bottom plow ID

IP: 204.60.207.80 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 09:14:57 PM by cal Innes

Hi Larry, I just bought a 3 bottom Oliver plow and can't identify the plow, I am reading the nameplate in the dark with a flashlight , but it looks like a Model 240 Plow.. could that be right? cal

Re(1): 3 bottom plow ID

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 09:47:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a 4240, I would guess. Larry

1650 THREE POINT

IP: 207.231.118.196 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 12:14:27 PM by CORRE

MY THREE POINT LEVER WHATS TO DRIFT TO THE UP POSITION IT WILL NOT KEEP THE ARMS DOWN ANY HELP THANK YOU CORRE

Re(1): 1650 THREE POINT

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 09:45:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Your friction disk adjustment has loosened and you are going to have to tighten it. You can either take the unit apart and slide the remote levers out so that you can gain acess to this disk. Otherwise, you can drill a 1/2" hole in the front of the left hand remote lever. Then use a screwdriver to tighten up the tension on that disk. After you get it tightened, there is a set screw with a lock nut that you will need to tighten so that it won't unscrew again. Larry

Re(2): 1650 THREE POINT

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on December 7, 2004 at 09:34:33 AM by Larry from MD

Often the friction disc one on each side of the lever just plain break and fall out.You can cut 2 pieces of rubber from a tube.Then use screw drivers to spread the parts slip the rubbers in where the discs were.

Re(3): 1650 THREE POINT

IP: 207.231.118.246 Posted on December 8, 2004 at 11:45:17 AM by corre

I am not sure what you mean by the levers are they the hydrulic levers i have to remove or drill ware are the disk located? i have a manuel would this explane things for me thank you for replys

Re(4): 1650 THREE POINT

IP: 67.2.248.23 Posted on December 9, 2004 at 06:46:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the hydraulic levers. The left hand remote lever hides the adjusting wheel. You will have to drill a hole in that portion of the lever there, to get access. Otherwise, you are going to have to take the unit apart. Yes, it is explained in the Service Manual (not in the Operator's Manual). There is an enlarged view of this in the Parts Manual. Larry

Re(5): 1650 THREE POINT

IP: 207.231.118.239 Posted on December 9, 2004 at 10:26:26 AM by CORRE

THANK YOU FOR THE HELP SEEMS TO BE BETTER THEN BEFORE I PROBLEMLY WILL HAVE TO REBUILD IT LATER BUT IT HOLDS FOR KNOW THANKS AGAIN HAPPY HOLIDAYS

1650 Sleeves

IP: 63.163.213.245 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 11:46:33 AM by Steve Merritt

I'm reassembling a direct injection 1650 engine. The shop manual states the top of the sleeves (excluding the firewall) must extend .003 - .006 above the surface of the block and if not, it must be shimmed. All but one of the new sleeves I have only extend .002 beyond the surface of the block and one extends .005. I've never heard of sleeve shims. Should I make shims or should I just leave it the way it is? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 Sleeves

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 09:41:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I would contact my AGCO Dealer and get some sleeve shims to get them all up into that range. Larry

Oliver Distributor Question

IP: 12.19.136.211 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 11:38:22 AM by Scott W

I have a Holley distributor in my 1655. When I go to the Agco dealer they have the recommended rotor and cap but when I install them, the tractor won't start. Put the old original parts back in and the tractor starts so I know my plug wire are right. Any ideas? Any history with the Holley?

Re(1): Oliver Distributor Question

IP: 69.179.30.245 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 03:52:10 PM by Ron

AGCO tells me the OEM cap is no longer available from them so I use a NAPA/Echlin FA87 cap and an AGCO 161890A rotor. Verify your part numbers and that you are properly seating the coil wire, etc. Holley made a great distributor but after 35 years of non-production some parts are hard to come by.

Re(2): Oliver Distributor Question

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 09:38:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Ron has stated the case perfectly. Larry

550 oliver

IP: 69.40.131.88 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 08:01:18 PM by Ethan

how big of bore and stroke could there be in an oliver 550?

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 09:49:44 PM by Super 55

550s up to 72831 had a bore and stroke of 3.5 X 3.75, 72832 and up had 3.625 X 3.75.

Re(2): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.201 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 00:25:15 AM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. Larry

Re(3): 550 oliver

IP: 68.82.222.221 Posted on December 7, 2004 at 10:38:19 PM by Dick Witmer

3.75 inch bore is available.

Re(3): 550 oliver

IP: 69.40.131.160 Posted on December 7, 2004 at 05:38:34 PM by Ethan

I know what they had stock, but i wanted to know how much overbore you could have in one

Re(4): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on December 8, 2004 at 08:33:56 AM by Larry Harsin

3.75 is the maximum. I don't reccommend any larger. You will create more problems and cause more harm than good. Also, it will burn more fuel. Larry

engine indentification

IP: 24.140.35.92 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 05:18:40 PM by Ron

I bought a super 77 that does not have the orginal engine can you help. here is the casting numbers on the block 190320 k100c also what is the hp it is suppose to have a bigger bore kit? Thanks

Re(1): engine indentification

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 06:21:30 PM by Larry from MD

The K100 means it was an 88or S88 block.

Re(2): engine indentification

IP: 67.2.249.201 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 00:23:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The K100c is a fleetline 88 engine. The S77 has 43 HP. The 88 engine originally also had 43 HP, but I'm guessing that this 88 block has oversized sleeves and pistons. Probably 3 3/4 bore. This engine should have approx. 50 - 55 HP. The 88 engine is slightly longer than the 77 engine. I'm guessing that they bored new holes in the front mounts in the tractor frame. Larry

front tires

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 01:06:14 PM by Joe B

What is the correct front tire size for 1947 60 row crop?

Re(1): front tires

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 09:53:52 PM by Super 55

According to the data book it is 5.00 X 15 and were 4 ply.

Re(2): front tires

IP: 67.2.249.201 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 00:16:53 AM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. Larry

Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 65.174.245.97 Posted on December 4, 2004 at 08:31:25 PM by Scott W.

My Oliver 1655 gas tractor doesn't want to run well. I have changed plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap, rotor, cleaned the carb, set the timing. When it is under an load at all it sputters and dies. I have had problems finding the right cap /rotor...I have a Holley distributor in this tractor. The tractor is sound nechanically. What am I missing?

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 67.2.248.137 Posted on December 4, 2004 at 11:18:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Remove the sediment bowl assembly from the fuel tank and see if there is any foreign material obstructing the fuel flow. If this checks out o.k., I would run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, then try it. If it runs better this way, the resistance wire that goes to the coil in the wiring harness, may be going bad. If this is the problem, simply run a wire from the switch ignition post to the coil. If the points don't hold up, you may have to purchase a resistor at your auto parts store so you can cut the voltage down. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 69.179.30.245 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 12:29:49 PM by Ron

Larry and Julmer are on the right track but be careful. In the wiring harness under your right foot is the ignition shunt. If it shorts, the coil will fry the points. So if you have to bypass the shunt, you MUST use a coil that says "for use WITHOUT external resistor". Any NAPA store can sell you one. Then inspect the points. If they are not perfect, replace them.

Re(3): Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 01:22:12 AM by julmer

Larry is right about sounding like you could have fuel starvation. After checking the fuel supply ( you might take the line off at carb and see if you get good flow) and checking the juice to the coil you might try this. You didn't say anything about your coil. Borrow one off something else like it (right voltage) and see if your tractor runs well under load. I have had a marginal coil fire weakly and do okay with a light load, but not have enough juice to fire a heavy fuel charge fast enough to run smoothly. A new coil doesn't cost that much, but electrical parts are not returnable so you might try it first and if it helps go get a good new one.

Re(4): Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 12.19.136.211 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 11:34:40 AM by Scott Wiederin

This is a 12volt system. What should the value of the resistor be? What should the voltage be?

Re(5): Oliver 1655 Runs Poor...Help

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on December 8, 2004 at 08:38:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The resistor should take it from 12 volt to 6 volt. Larry

Super 88 clutch

IP: 24.119.160.254 Posted on December 3, 2004 at 11:20:01 PM by Jim

Larry, I have a 1955 Oliver row crop Super 88 diesel. This is my first Oliver tractor. My clutch adjustment is all gone but it still works fine. I'm assuming though that I should think about replacing the clutch. The tractor is just used for small hobby farm jobs and shows. It does not have a belt pulley. I've never changed a clutch before but do have a copy of the Oliver service manual. Can I change the clutch without pulling the engine out of the tractor and are there any special tools required?

Re(1): Super 88 clutch

IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on December 4, 2004 at 08:25:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can change the clutch without removal of the engine. No special tools are required. I would strongly consider changing the rear main seal while you are in there, if it is leaking at all. I prefer to fold the dash assembly up over the engine, when doing a clutch job on this tractor. Larry

Re(2): Super 88 clutch

IP: 24.119.160.254 Posted on December 5, 2004 at 10:03:06 PM by Jim

Larry, what do you mean when you say folding the dash assembly up over the engine?

Re(3): Super 88 clutch

IP: 67.2.249.201 Posted on December 6, 2004 at 00:13:09 AM by Larry Harsin

What I mean is, remove the fuel tank, the battery and disconnect the light wires that go from the dash to the front of the transmission cover. Then you can unbolt the dash from the frame and simply lay it up on the engine and you will avoid having to drain coolant and everything is out of the way to work on the clutch. All of this is explained in your Service Manual. Larry

Oliver sign-need info

IP: 68.72.219.235 Posted on December 2, 2004 at 08:17:09 PM by Ken

Hi, I have an Oliver neon sign that I am restoring for a customer. I am missing some parts of this sign and was wondering if anyone knew of this sign or maybe seen it some years ago. I do not know how old it is, but guessing by the neon glass and the condition, I would say at leats 30 years old. The sign is 2 lines of copy with the first line reading "Genuine Oliver" The second line is missing except for 3 letters that spell "irs" I do not know where the letters went or what the word could have said. The neon colors I believe are green and white and the letting is in a very nice script. If anyone knows of this sign or may know what is could have said, I would appreciate any information! Thank you!

Re(1): Oliver sign-need info

IP: 216.176.75.129 Posted on December 3, 2004 at 09:39:53 AM by Sherry

The sign that you have says "Genuine Oliver Repairs". The words Genuine and Repairs are bright green and the word Oliver is sunset gold. This sign is probably 50+ years old because it was introduced in the 1940's. www.oliverinformation.com

Rowcrop 60 - Leak At Rear Axle Carrier

IP: 68.12.30.19 Posted on November 29, 2004 at 01:08:07 PM by Mark

Larry, I have a rowcrop 60 that has a leak between the rear axle carrier and the rear main frame. Does the axle have to be taken completely off or can you loosen the carrier cap and slide it back? I guess you would have to cut the gasket and silicone it back. If the axle has to come completely off, isn't there a snap ring inside the rear main frame that has to be removed first? Help? Thank you Larry!

Re(1): Rowcrop 60 - Leak At Rear Axle Carrier

IP: 67.2.242.4 Posted on December 2, 2004 at 08:52:03 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a snap ring that holds the bull gear on the axle. You'll have to remove that snap ring. Then you just unbolt the axle housing and remove the whole assembly. If you take the whole thing out, you won't have to cut the gasket. Larry

Oliver 88 diesel: turbo?

IP: 162.39.38.19 Posted on November 29, 2004 at 00:39:51 AM by Derek

I am in the process of rebuilding an oliver 88 diesel. Is it possible to add a turbocharger and still keep the tractor useable for farm work? Are there any turbochargers made for an 88, and how much would one cost? Also, I've heard that a 1600 fuel pump will work on an 88; all you need is the 1600 timing cover. Is there any truth to that?

Re(1): Oliver 88 diesel: turbo?

IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on November 30, 2004 at 09:02:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can add a turbocharger and still use the tractor. There are no kits or packages built by anyone to do this, so I don't know the cost. You will need to upgrade the radiator as it is not going to cool this engine. Also, you should install double fan belts to run the water pump. If you are going to use it very much doing farm work, I would increase the oil pan capacity by deepening it. The fuel pump from a 1600 would work on that engine with the timing cover, backing plate, gears, etc. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 diesel: turbo?

IP: 65.6.34.19 Posted on November 30, 2004 at 08:58:53 PM by George

Depending on the turbo size and the amount of boost, the radiator might be alright. I know you will have to deepen the oil pan. Just not enough to go around.

Re(3): Oliver 88 diesel: turbo?

IP: 69.40.131.203 Posted on November 30, 2004 at 09:44:51 PM by Derek

I know there are overhaul kits for an 88 that have 3 7/8" pistons. I don't think the block needs to be bored out, but does anyone know where to get them, if they're not a dealer item?

Re(4): Oliver 88 diesel: turbo?

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on December 1, 2004 at 08:39:07 AM by Larry Harsin

For these, check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 or Korves Bros. Oliver www.korvesoliver.com Larry

Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 66.222.55.122 Posted on November 28, 2004 at 07:04:13 PM by HARVEY FRY

Just put a rebuilt water pump on the 1940 70 RC. Shortly after we started it up, oil was coming out the weep hole on the water pump. Quite a bit of oil. What would cause that?

Re(1): Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on November 28, 2004 at 08:47:06 PM by Larry Harsin

There is an oil feed line from the engine cylinder head to the water pump. This is not a pressure line, it is a gravity line that lets the oil lay up against the oil light bushings and the pump. Oil should NOT run out the weep hole of the pump. If this persists, I would contact the person who reconditioned the pump. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 66.222.54.217 Posted on November 29, 2004 at 08:58:19 PM by Harvey Fry

Thanks Larry. I did contact the guy who rebuilt the pump. This is what he told me: "Harvey, You will have to restrict the line into the pump.I put a very small hole through the bushing to the shaft just like the origional and they send alot of oil down the front of the engine. either put some thing in the oil feed line or pinch it off some if the oil flow is too much." John. If I cut off the oil flow, wont it burn out the pump?

Re(3): Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on November 30, 2004 at 08:55:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think you should have drilled a hole in the bushings. Those bushing were porous and the oil would soak through. They weren't made with a hole in them. Go ahead and try what John told you, and see what happens. He didn't say to cut it off completely, he said "pinch it off some". Larry

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