What year is my 1850?

IP: 12.227.210.112 Posted on December 31, 2006 at 03:05:18 AM by brandon stuckey

I recently bought my first tractor an 1850 Oliver gas but I am not sure how to tell what year it is. The S/N is 192-088-427 and the model number is 285-21307.

Re(1): What year is my 1850?

IP: 67.2.248.83 Posted on December 31, 2006 at 02:22:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1850 s/n 192088 was built in 1967. The 427 tells about gearing etc that went into your tractor. If you are interested in learning more about your tractor, the Museum in Charles City IA has the Build Card for it. A computer went along with it as it was being built and when something was put into the tractor, the computer card was punched. For a fee ($10?), the Museum will tell you what the Build Card says and even what Dealership originally sold the tractor. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

77 gas tank

IP: 207.177.82.85 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 06:29:23 PM by wayne

I have a 77 gas that sat for a while and now has rust and gunk in the tank. What do you recommend to clean the tank out? thank you

Re(1): 77 gas tank

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:49:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the tank from the tractor and use a power washer with hot soapy water and clean it out. I usually do this at the car wash. Larry

880 Electrical Problem

IP: 64.33.180.91 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 08:49:27 PM by Stew Kepler

I have a problem with the charging system on my 880. I haven't determined if the problem is in the regulator or the generator, but my inclination at this point is to replace the generator with an alternator. Is there a particular alternator that would be good for this purpose?

Re(1): 880 Electrical Problem

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 10:07:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd prefer leaving the tractor as it was built in the first place. I'd take the generator to a repair shop and have it checked out. As far as alternators, I see more Delco-Remy than anything else and they are the easiest to get repaired. Get the single wire, self exciting alternator, that has the built in regulator, so that you don't have trouble shutting off the engine etc. Larry

Re(2): 880 Electrical Problem

IP: 64.33.180.12 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 00:05:45 AM by Stew Kepler

The generator and regulator on the tractor don't appear to be orignal equipment, at least not the generator. The generator is a Delco, model #1100419, possibly from an Oliver 1600. I can't see any identifying numbers on the regulator, but it is a Delco. It's a saddle mount, but is mounted on a plate that is bolted to the side of the engine block. Perhaps it is the original regulator. It's obviously not the regulator that is normally paired with the 1100419 Delco generator. That regulator is flat mounted.

Re(3): 880 Electrical Problem

IP: 64.33.180.50 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:47:49 AM by Stew Kepler

I found a listing at a supplier of rebuilt generators that lists the Deloco 1100419 for both the 880 and 1600. Could that generator have been original equipment on the 880? The tractor has power steering. I thought the original generator and power steering pump would have been mounted back-to-back?

Re(4): 880 Electrical Problem

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:41:08 PM by Larry Harsin

That generator could have been original equipment. Most of the 880's that were equipped with a generator and factory power steering were the way you describe, but a lot of times things get changed. There are several different possibilities as to what has taken place. Larry

White American 60

IP: 65.54.154.48 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 04:51:34 PM by marvin oneal

I live in carrollto ky I need to know if the white american 80 has a turbo and I am looking for the toy tractor of the white american 60 or 80 and is there any differents in the motors thank you marvin oneal

Re(1): White American 60

IP: 67.2.242.108 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 06:09:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The White American 80 is turboed. It is a Cummins 4 cylinder with a turbo. Yes, those motors were different. They were the same engine, but the 60 isn't turboed. We have the whole set of 4 toys in the 60 size, plus the special display case. They aren't for sale. :) :) Larry

Re(2): White American 60

IP: 65.54.98.109 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 08:03:17 PM by marvin oneal

thank you larry with the help. But do you know were i could find this toys?

Re(3): White American 60

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:35:38 PM by Larry Harsin

We bought our set at an AGCO Dealer's several years ago. Email Sherry Schaefer at sherry@oliverinformation.com Possibly she can help you. Larry

Re(4): White American 60

IP: 65.54.154.145 Posted on December 31, 2006 at 04:34:36 PM by marvin oneal

larry, do you have any idea of how many many of this tractor were made. I was told around 700 or so

Re(5): White American 60

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on January 1, 2007 at 06:46:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure if you are talking about the toy or the full sized tractor. I don't really know. This is another thing you can ask Sherry. Larry

Super 55

IP: 72.95.40.128 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 10:29:04 AM by Hank

What is the "Champion" sparkplug number for a Super 55 tractor? I am having problems finding the correct plugs for my tractor

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 4.249.201.221 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 11:16:27 AM by Larry from md D21

Re(2): Super 55

IP: 67.2.242.108 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 06:01:38 PM by Larry Harsin

D21 is a hot plug for lighter service and if your tractor is burning oil. I perfer the D16, if I don't have the problem. Larry

carb problems on 770

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on December 28, 2006 at 08:33:02 PM by Rod Krischke

I have a 1966 770 Industrial backhoe. I got it with our country home in 2000. The old man who had the house hadn't seen the tractor run in years. I got it running by putting new plugs in and changing gas, etc. I have a recurring problem with the carb. It just won't stay in tune. I have taken it apart several times and cleaned gunk out of it. I have a really tough time getting the carb adjusted. It has a Zenith carb. can you tell me the proper procedure to adjust the carb. It runs really rich and soots up the plugs in a short time. thanks for your help. I use the tractor to plow snow on our road but can't get much out of it right now.

Re(1): carb problems on 770

IP: 67.2.249.1 Posted on December 28, 2006 at 11:04:46 PM by Larry Harsin Possibly the float is not regulating the level of fuel in the bowl. This would make it run too rich. I don't know what model carb that is, being it is a Zenith. That is not a common carb for that engine. There should be a tag on it somewhere that tells what model of carb it is. If you get the model of carb, you can order a repair kit for it from Valu-Bilt. 888-828-3276. If you can't determine the model of carb, you can send it to me and I'll attempt to repair it for you. 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334. Larry

Re(2): carb problems on 770

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 07:00:28 AM by Rod Krischke There was an old Marvel Shelbler carb in the garage. I don't know what kind of shape it is in. The tag says it is a TSXU 72A. Would that be the original carb? The Zenith is according to the tag a 14991B 5 94. Which would be better to rebuild? The tractor has at times run well with the Zenith.

Re(3): carb problems on 770

IP: 67.2.242.114 Posted on December 29, 2006 at 07:06:26 AM by Larry Harsin

All of the 770's that I have worked with, have Marvel Schebler carbs. The number TSXU 72A doesn't sound right to me, so I don't think it is off of that tractor. If that Zenith has worked in the past and you can get it fixed, I would go with it. Larry

Re(4): carb problems on 770

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 00:46:11 AM by J. Ulmer

If your machine was parked a long time and the fuel system developed "gunk" (varnish, sludge, ect. from water, condensation, and dirt) you may have to clean all components out. Additionally, if someone working to clear out fuel problems blew into the tank they could have collasped the float (a little or a lot) resulting in flooding and over-rich running. Been there and did that on an old Hough H-30 payloader with a gas engine. A pinholed (and partially flooded) float (can types) or "water-logged" composition float will wreak havoc also! Jerry

Re(5): carb problems on 770

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:46:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Everything that Jerry says is all possible, too. Larry

Re(6): carb problems on 770

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on January 2, 2007 at 09:20:55 AM by Rod Krischke The carb that is off of the tractor and sitting on the bench in the garage is a Marvel Shebler TSXU 836. Do you think that is the original carb for the 770 Industrial? I am still looking for a carb adjustment procedure for the Zenith carb. I tore it all down again and adjusted the float down a little. It is running better but still need to nail down the tune on the carb.

1850 PTO Drive Shaft

IP: 70.41.62.203 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 08:10:18 PM by Dan Korn

Larry; I sent you an email in early October about my 1850. You suspected that the PTO drive shaft splines were wore out. I am sad to say that you were correct. However the good news is I wouldn't have to pull the engine. I was looking in my IT manual and the part # for the PTO drive shaft is 103897A. The shaft is about 5 1/2 feet long with 3 sets of splines. The ones which go into the flywheel are all worn off. I looked in a web site tonight and there are to different types available.One supposedly has a ground area after the center plines and the other is a plain finish. I think that I have the one with a plain finish. Any ideas where I can get the right one and what should it cost? Thank you for your help.

Re(1): 1850 PTO Drive Shaft

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 09:36:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't purchased one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1850 PTO Drive Shaft

IP: 70.41.62.203 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 09:48:03 PM by dan korn

Larry, Thnaks for the tip. I will call him on Thursday.

Re(3): 1850 PTO Drive Shaft

IP: 70.41.62.203 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 06:23:17 PM by dan korn

Larry: I found a good used shaft locally and installed it today. The shaft is identical to the old one. It has been 3 months since I pulled the tractor apart and have a question about re-installation. I have the shaft in the tractor and now I need to install the o-ring and metal slug. Does the o-ring fit in the secong grove of the slpines and then slide the slug in to casue a seal? Soemthing does not seem right as there is too much room between the shaft end and the Metal slug?? What am I doing wrong?

Re(4): 1850 PTO Drive Shaft

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 30, 2006 at 10:53:50 PM by Larry Harsin

The o ring fits in the second groove etc like you say. Just install the slug far enough in there that you can get the snap ring in the first groove. Don't push the slug all of the way in. Larry

timing marks

IP: 64.18.112.254 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 07:37:24 PM by Mandy

I am needing to know how to time 1972 1365 tractor. It is a diesel. If you have and help please let me know>

Re(1): timing marks

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 09:33:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a Service Manual for a 1365 and I don't have that info for you. You can get a Service Manual from Charles City. There is a link to Manuals on our Home Page or you can email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

880 fuel guage

IP: 216.51.166.240 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 08:19:15 AM by ADB

Larry, I'm having trouble getting the guages on my 880 to work. I've replaced the guage cluster, wiring harness, and sending units. My amp and oil lights work but my guages don't. I checked the guages with an ohm meter and they read 130 ohms across the two poles. My service manual says they should be at 190. Is my new guage bad? Thanks. ADB

Re(1): 880 fuel guage

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on December 27, 2006 at 09:30:42 PM by Larry Harsin

The new gauge cluster has probably been built by a different manufacturer than the original ones. Check where you purchased the gauge cluster and see what their reccommendation is. Some of them were built for positive ground and some for negative ground etc. There should have been some info in the package with the gauge cluster. It's the temp of the fuel that is the sticker on those things. Some of them won't work if the polarity is different. Larry

Oliver 880 Power Booster Drive

IP: 216.81.26.142 Posted on December 24, 2006 at 02:07:56 PM by Doug

Is there any way to eliminate the power booster drive?

Re(1): Oliver 880 Power Booster Drive

IP: 67.2.249.118 Posted on December 24, 2006 at 10:57:48 PM by Larry

Yes. There are different ways of doing it. You can remove the drive shafts that are in it and installing new direct-drive shafts. Otherwise, I have fabricated a coupling between the existing shafts, so as to avoid the high cost of the parts. Larry

Oliver 66 3 point

IP: 64.136.26.228 Posted on December 23, 2006 at 07:49:56 AM by Terry Paxton

I bought an Oliver 66 and it has three point on it. How do I know if it is orginal or an add on. I realize the 66 did not come out with 3 point but the super and the 660 might have. Will the 3 point also fit on the 77 and 88? Whats the value of it? Re(1): Oliver 66 3 point IP: 67.2.248.67 Posted on December 23, 2006 at 10:19:39 PM by Larry Harsin The 66 could be ordered with a 3 pt. I'd have to see a picture of it to say for sure if it is original, but I expect it is. If you send a picture, email it to: cobalt@rconnect.com. The 3 pt. might fit a 77, I doubt if it would fit the 88. It isn't strong enough to handle what the 88 will pull. I don't know the value, but if it is in nice condition, maybe $400 or $500. Larry Re(2): Oliver 66 3 point IP: 64.136.26.228 Posted on December 24, 2006 at 05:33:21 AM by Terry Paxton Thank you for the imformation and I measured and it seems the mouting on the rear end for the 66-77-and 88 are the same. I agree it would be to light for an 88 but it would fit. I will send you a picture. I just got my 1948 Oliver 88 painted and will send one too. thanks for the information

what is the difference between 550 and a super 55

IP: 12.74.208.11 Posted on December 21, 2006 at 06:24:49 PM by robert

The guy who sold it to me said it was a 51 but wasn't sure, I was looking thru the internet and saw some super 55 the look like it except for the fender piece on the front top.the strip was there but not the part that has the emblem.

Re(1): what is the difference between 550 and a super 55

IP: 67.2.242.24 Posted on December 21, 2006 at 11:46:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Send us your serial number and we can tell you what year it is. The 550 is just an upgraded Super 55. The S55 were built from late '54 til the fall of '58. Then the production of 550's began and they were produced until 1975. Larry

Re(2): what is the difference between 550 and a super 55

IP: 12.74.206.155 Posted on December 22, 2006 at 04:14:09 PM by robert

serial # 56-664-519 thank you

Re(3): what is the difference between 550 and a super 55 IP: 67.2.242.87 Posted on December 22, 2006 at 10:42:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is a Super 55 built in 1958. (Serial Number 56664. The 519 has to do with gearing etc. that was put into your tractor.) Larry

Hydraulic oil in rear end

IP: 207.162.169.68 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 10:00:09 PM by tommy cannon

I bought a 550 and have hydraulic oil in the rearend. I probably haven't run much over an hour since I bought it and the 3 point seemed to work alright. I have been getting it ready to paint when I checked the rearend fluid and it was over full. The oil wasn't mixed so it leaking with the motor running. Is there any other place to get a leak except the pump seal? Also the block has been changed and the casting # is L100 which is suppose is from a 53 model 66. Is there anyway to update this block to the 550? the head is from the 550. It runs good and higher oil pressure than I thought the fleetlines had. Thanks for your help, tommy

Re(1): Hydraulic oil in rear end

IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on December 20, 2006 at 00:02:59 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a seal on the drive shaft of the pump that could be leaking and there might be a leak where the pump is attached to the unit. The L100 block will work. Of course, you can change it to a 550 block. If it is working fine, I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't worry about the higher oil pressure either. Larry

Oliver 88 hydraulics

IP: 72.164.56.94 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 09:23:58 PM by Greg Mueller

Larry, I have a 1953 Oliver 88 Diesel that I just got running last week. This tractor had sat for 3-4 years outside with the tin work on it. It has the series 2 hydra-electric unit that uses levers on side of housing to operate the valves. I am not getting any movement from my hoses when moving the levers. Pump doesn't sound like it is even operating. Where should I begin to look? I do know the fuse panel under the dash is bad and no fuses are in it at this time. Did not see any electrical wires to the hydraulic unit, only the connector where the hydra-electric cable to connect to. Also, is there a way to test the hydraulic pump after it is removed from the tractor? Guessing the pump could be the problem also. Any info would be appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 88 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 11:55:54 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have put oil in the pump and you can't get a pressure reading or anything, you are going to have to remove the pump from the tractor. It probably needs to be repaired. When you take it apart, it will be obvious as to what it needs. The wiring has gone bad and they have removed it and then worked it manually. Larry

oliver 550

IP: 66.177.221.62 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 07:05:26 PM by Michael

can anybody tell me where i can find parts for this machine? or a manuel for this machine? also what are the manufactors for implements..thanks in advance for any info

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 11:49:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Call O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. They have parts and some implements. There are lots of manufacturers of implements for 550's. You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or there is a link to their Manuals on our main page. Larry

hyda-power

IP: 67.72.98.45 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 06:31:34 PM by gene sorenson

I have a bad hyda-power and want to change to direct drive but cant find parts.Scrap yards know about parts but need casting# shaft size and # of splines on coupler.This is for a 1650 D Oliver.People tell me the bellhousing,shaft and coupler are for a loader tractor and can be changed.I have seen it done. Please call me if you can.218 841 3038.

Re(1): hyda-power

IP: 67.2.242.46 Posted on December 20, 2006 at 06:53:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The bellhousing is the same as a 770 and an 880 use, so it shouldn't be hard to find. The bellhousing #101467AS or #105613AS. The shaft #155067A. The sprockets #105275A. The coupling chain #101861A. The shaft size and # of splines is the same as a 770 or an 880. I'll give you a call. Larry

1650 starter problems

IP: 24.105.190.146 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 06:54:59 AM by wmthrower

I had a short in my starter that was giving me some problems. Had it fixed last night and the guy tested it with the solenoid and it worked pretty well. I put the starter in the tractor and turn the key and nothing. The lights and guages work but not even a click from the starter. Any ideas where to look next? I am going to test the ignition tonight and see if I have power to the key.

Re(1): 1650 starter problems

IP: 67.2.242.119 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 07:17:44 AM by Larry Harsin

The neutral start switch on the gear shift lever, may not be working. Or a wire going to that switch may be disconnected. Larry

Re(2): 1650 starter problems

IP: 12.31.4.162 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 08:41:40 AM by wmthrower

What would make the neutral start switch not work all of a sudden? Could it have tripped when the starter shorted?

Re(3): 1650 starter problems

IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 11:42:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. I have seen them fail, though. Sometimes they quit working in cold weather. Larry

Super 88 governor

IP: 74.34.74.121 Posted on December 18, 2006 at 07:25:05 AM by Greg

I need to adjust the govenrner on my Super 88, what are the steps to do that ? My old one is worn out and I hope to put a good used one on. I am thinking a 770 governor is the same as a Super 88,, is that true ?

Re(1): Super 88 governor

IP: 67.2.249.135 Posted on December 20, 2006 at 09:41:05 PM by Larry Harsin

A 770 governor is not the same, however, it will work. If you have an Operator's Manual for your S88, adjusting the governor is outlined in that manual. If you don't have a manual, you need to get one. You can get them from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net There is a link on our main page. Larry

1650 rearend

IP: 207.231.118.144 Posted on December 18, 2006 at 04:24:43 AM by corre K

My hydrulic oil would be low everonce in a while I did have a couple leaks so though nothing of it till this weekend when I added oil after fixing a nother leak and oil started comeing out of the shifing rod on the floor pan I looked in shop manuel but cannt seem to find a plug to get ti to write level Plus what would make the oil go there thankyou for any and all help

Re(1): 1650 rearend

IP: 67.2.249.203 Posted on December 18, 2006 at 07:18:51 AM by Larry Harsin

There's hydraulic oil getting into the transmission. The level plug for the transmission is behind the right hand axle housing. It is a 3/8" pipe plug. On 1650's the most common problem for leakage like this, is a cracked hydraulic oil pan. To come through the shifing rod like that, the transmission is overfull. Larry

Re(2): 1650 rearend

IP: 207.231.118.168 Posted on December 20, 2006 at 04:05:44 AM by corre k

Thanks for the help it was really overful Happy holidays to you and yours thanks again

What year is it?

IP: 164.58.225.62 Posted on December 17, 2006 at 11:06:43 AM by valerie gilstrap

My husband and I just bought an Oliver 70 rowcrop. We're not sure what year it is. was wondering if you could help. Serial number- 227943. Also, the tractor didn't come with wheels when we bought it, was wondering if they are supposed to be cast or steel? thanks for your help. -valerie

Re(1): What year is it?

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on December 17, 2006 at 08:08:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor was built in 1939. The wheels were probably cast centers, if it came with rubber tires. Larry

what model is it

IP: 12.74.209.163 Posted on December 17, 2006 at 09:17:00 AM by robert

I bought a 51 oliver with front loader need to know model want to get parts for it spec # 25-0203 serial # 56-664-519

Re(1): what model is it

IP: 67.2.249.8 Posted on January 2, 2007 at 10:58:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The 519 tells me that it is probably a 550. It was built in 1958. Larry

177d sleeve intallation

IP: 209.132.168.73 Posted on December 15, 2006 at 06:56:00 PM by Joe Dunlap

I pulled one sleeve out to check for a possible crack and I am having trouble getting it back in without cutting the o-rings. Have new o-rings (XB-179), cleaned the bore, and used Ivory liquid but I can't push the sleeve in by hand. Gentle persuasion really doesn't help. Notice the good book says there should be a 15 degree chamfer but smoothing the edge with medium paper is the best I have done so far. Your thoughts would be welcome. Thanks.

Re(1): 177d sleeve intallation

IP: 67.2.249.210 Posted on December 15, 2006 at 10:57:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the o-rings back off of the sleeve and take emery cloth and keep polishing that area where the sleeve sets, until the sleeve will slide in with very little pressure. You have to just keep working that out with emery cloth until that sleeve will slide in without the o-rings, and then put the o-rings back on the sleeve dry and not twisted, then put liquid soap on the sleeve and the outside of the o-rings and in the bottom of the block. It should slide right in, you may have to use a wood block and GENTLY tap it in, but don't use great force. Larry

Re(2): 177d sleeve intallation

IP: 216.220.249.179 Posted on December 17, 2006 at 04:04:20 PM by mike

I use a fine wire wheel on an air die grinder and polish the block bore,I then use an oring lube you can get this from your local John Deere dealer.I then use a cyl sleeve press to install them.The reason for the use of the press is so the sleeve will be installed w/equal amount of presure on the circumfrence.the sleeve will seat into the block w/out much effort.

Re(3): 177d sleeve intallation

IP: 209.132.168.194 Posted on December 23, 2006 at 05:08:08 PM by Joe Dunlap

Just to let you know the sleeve is now in place. Kept cleaning the bore and did use a wire wheel as Mike above suggested. Hate to use those wheels in some instances because little wires can break off and you don't know where they go. Anyway, the wire wheel improved the chamfered area. Had to get new o-rings again from O'Briens and they provided a couple of smaller x-section rings (50A1744). Used soap and the sleeve went in perfectly. Thanks.

head bolts

IP: 216.51.166.240 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 02:26:11 PM by ADB

I'm going to replace the head bolts on my 880 diesel when I put it back together. Will grade 8 bolts from Orscheln work for replacements or are there better bolts I should use? I don't like the price of head bolts at my AGCO dealer. ADB

Re(1): head bolts

IP: 67.2.249.228 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 10:30:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I tend to reuse the head bolts. I inspect them to make sure they are not stretched. I'm sure I could supply you with some head bolts. If you want them, email me. (cobalt@rconnect.com) The Orscheln ones are probably suitable. Head bolts are grade 8 material. Be sure to get the correct length. Larry

1650 gas

IP: 12.106.111.10 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 05:32:26 AM by mark

Larry, I have a 1650 gas that doesn't want to run right at low speeds. It smokes and runs rough when you first start it but will eventually smooth out as you increase the RPM's and runs fine when run full throttle. I've gone through the carb 3 times, put in new plugs, points, cond.,and retimed it. It is putting out 70 h.p. on a dyno. 2 other observations. When you screw the needle in on the carb all the way the engine does not stall out like on my other tractors. Also frost forms on the carb throat to the point it gets nearly 1/8 inch thick. Could these things be the problem and if so how do I cure it. Any suggestions? I'm running out of ideas! Thanks. Mark

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:25:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the main thing that is wrong is that the load needle is not going into it's seat. It is dislocated. This is a common problem with this carb. Start over installing that needle, feeling your way in. You should be able to starve the engine when properly installed. Larry

Re(2): 1650 gas

IP: 12.106.111.10 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 05:16:16 AM by mark

Larry, I got the engine to stall out but still have the frost buildup and still running somewhat rough. Ideas?

Re(3): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.242.119 Posted on December 19, 2006 at 07:21:25 AM by Larry Harsin

At temps right at the freezing point, this is a common complaint with the 1650 gas. Make sure the thermostat for the engine is working properly. Also, it might help to partially cover the radiator in cold weather, when this is happening. Larry

Super 99 GM

IP: 66.115.249.179 Posted on December 13, 2006 at 09:42:56 PM by Ryan Kammerer

The transmission makes a loud screaming noise when it is put in third and all higher gears. Is this normal or not.

Re(1): Super 99 GM

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:21:27 AM by Larry Harsin

This is not normal. I would remove the inspection plate and check out the gear alignment and see if there are any filings in transmission etc. It might even be that the ring gear and pinion are set up too tight. Larry

Re(2): Super 99 GM

IP: 66.115.249.179 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 06:54:06 PM by Ryan Kammerer

This tractor has sat for the better part of ten years, before I got a hold of itand Just today the pto brake quit holding the pto in the stop position unless excessive force is continually applied to the lever.How hard is it to fix the problems listed.

Re(3): Super 99 GM

IP: 67.2.249.210 Posted on December 15, 2006 at 10:42:06 PM by Larry Harsin

You adjust it by moving shims from one side to the other where the brake housings are attached to the transmission. The backlash setting is usually found on the ring gear edge, such as it will say .008. That is what they are usually set at. Larry

Re(4): Super 99 GM

IP: 66.115.249.179 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 10:41:22 PM by Ryan Kammerer

I have had the inspection plate off after I first aquired the tractor from my fathers employer and the oil appeared to be free of any foriegn, because I could see the pinkish enamel on the bottom of the transmission housing. So how do you adjust the ring, gear and pinion,or is this something that can be done in a farm shop.

Re(5): Super 99 GM

IP: 67.2.249.228 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 10:26:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The PTO problem: the clutch may have oil or grease in it or it may be out of adjustment or the plates could be warped. Difficulty depends on what you find it wrong when you check out all of these problems. It could be simple or it could be something major. Larry

1550 brake housing oil seal

IP: 24.58.169.255 Posted on December 13, 2006 at 05:30:11 PM by Chuck Limmer

I have a 1550 that I am putting new brake discs on. On one side, the brake housing was dry. On the other side, there was some oil that got past the oil seal on the bull pinion shaft. Is it possible to replace the oil seal from the outside, or do I have to take the brake housing off to do the job right? How much leakage is expected?

Re(1): 1550 brake housing oil seal

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:19:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I would clean that thing up and re-assemble it and try it. Replacing that seal is more involved than replacing one on the early tractors like the 880. I would also make sure the oil level in the rear end isn't too high. Possibly change the oil if needed.

1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on December 8, 2006 at 11:46:48 AM by Jeremy

I have another question about my oliver 1850 gas. The tractor won't shut off with the key. When I turn the key to off it acts like it wants to shut off, but wont. I have to choke it to kill it. The interesting part is that it just recently started doing this and the switch wasn't working correctly any way. That is why I thought I would try the new ignition switch. I have herd it can be from feedback from the alternator, but why all of the sudden. I checked to see if the alternater was charging and it showed that it was producing around 33 volts at the battery. With the tractor off it obviously shows around 12.9 volts at the battery. The 33 volts at the battery seems really high or is this normal? Could the tractor not shutting off and the high volts at the battery be connected? If so, what do you think I should do? Thanks again for all your help. Jeremy

Re(1): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on December 8, 2006 at 10:33:15 PM by Larry Harsin

33 volts is too much. It shouldn't be any more than 15 volts. With the key in the off position, check the ignition post on the starter solenoid. See if it will light a test light. Then, disconnect that wire from the starter solenoid and see if the wire will still light a test light and check the post to see if it will light the test light. This way will help determine whether the problem is in the ignition switch or the solenoid on the starter. If your alternator is putting out as much voltage as you say, I would take it off and take it to an electrical shop and have it checked out. If all of your electrical components check out, you may have too fast of an idle speed on your engine for it to shut down properly, and it will want to run without any ignition. It will actually be dieseling. So, then, try for a slower idle speed and leaving the tractor in gear and engaging the clutch as you turn off the ignition switch. Larry

Re(2): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 10, 2006 at 01:08:35 AM by J. Ulmer

Run out the electrical as Larry describes. If you do have a "dieseling" (ignition coming from heat in the cylinders) you MAY have carbon deposits on the head and/or pistons tops holding heat (glowing like an ember) which is enough to ignite fuel coming in and firing the cylinder. Has your carb been running rich/flooding or dirty air cleaner choking air off or operating long periods at low idling speeds? I have an ONAN power plant which requires carbon cleaning of inside (taking head off) everyso many hours as the power plant running lots of hours at constant speed can induce carbon build up (as lots of hours may be at low load but rpm's kept up for 60 cycle ac power.) Propane and natural gas burn lots cleaner than gasoline yet we have still had some carbon fouling during or at end of irrigation season. They run at a constant speed 24 hrs a day for several months also. Sorry this was long, but I know how frustrating it can be. Good Luck. Jerry

Re(3): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on December 11, 2006 at 09:28:10 AM by jeremy

Hey guys thanks for the response. You were right with the alternator. It has to do with the wire that goes from the alternator to the voltage regulator. If I unplug that wire from the alternator, the tractor will shut off with the ignition switch like it should, but the tractor will show a slight discharge on the amp meter gauge. If I turn the lights on, the gauge will really show discharge. Would a bad voltage regulator cause this? This plug on the alternator has 2 prongs on it and it only goes to one wire. Is this correct? Should I get rid of both the alternator and voltage regulator and just get a new one wire alternater and fix the problem? Thanks for your help. Jeremy

Re(4): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 67.2.242.111 Posted on December 11, 2006 at 01:05:35 PM by Larry Harsin

If either your alternator or your regulator is bad, I would opt for the single wire replacement alternator. Then your troubles should be over with. If you want to keep your present set-up (if they are working), you can purchase a diode to put on that line that is back feeding. That will stop it also. Larry

Re(5): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 216.46.212.52 Posted on December 12, 2006 at 08:57:55 AM by Randy

Just one caution with the single wire alternator,I put one on my 1550 and if it sat for very long it would draw the battery down. I had to put a toggle switch in the wire to the alternator and shut the power off to it when I shut the tractor off.

Re(6): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 12, 2006 at 02:33:44 PM by J. Ulmer

I have had discharge problems with some old stuff, but I figured the mice had chewed on insulation, flex-wear damage, ect. and usually put a master disconnect (heavy amperage) in the battery cable and shut off EVERYTHING when not being used. Had friends whose grain trucks, combines and other stuff which was parked long periods catch fire when mice chewed on wires and they shorted out. I would rather leave the battery in and charge it or start it every month or so. Those master disconnect switches are $16 - $20 at NAPA or CarQuest (Pollack switches--Pt.#51-302P)

Re(7): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:39:37 AM by Jeremy

Larry, Thanks for all your advice on my 1850 Oliver gas tractor. I decided to put the one wire alternator on the tractor. It fixed part of the problem. It got rid of the back feeding, but it still is over charging according to my tester. Before I start the tractor the battery shows 12 volts. When the tractor is running, my tester shows 25-35 volts at the battery which is way too high. I tested my two other tractors while they where running to make sure my tester is working correctly and they both showed 14.7 volts, so it is not my tester. The amp meter on the tractor shows it is charging at little when the lights are off, but when the lights are turned on, it shows it is discharging. Now when I use my tester it shows the same 25-35 volts whether or not the lights are on, so according to the tester it is not discharging when the lights are on. Before I lose my mind with this. Have you ever had this problem before? What would be causing the tractor to charge so high even with the new one wire alternator. Could it be possible the amp meter gauge is causing this? This tractor is a negative ground right? Before I lose my mind with this do you have any suggestions. This most certainly has got me stumped. Thanks in advance for all your help. I hope to get this fixed before the real cold snap sets in. Jeremy

Re(8): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is try a different battery. I would also check the wiring against the wiring diagram that is shown in your Operator's Manual. When the tractor is running, check for overheating somewhere in the charging circuit. See if anything is getting warm. There has to be something causing that alternator to put out so much current. I don't know what exactly to tell you. Larry

Re(9): 1850 gas won't shut off

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on December 14, 2006 at 07:43:03 AM by Jeremy

Larry, It is fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Can you believe that I lost sleep over a bad alternator? The new alternator I bought was bad. I returned it last night and got another new one and the charging system works like it should. It goes to show you that sometimes you can do everything right and it is still out of your hands. I appreciate you hanging in there with me with all the suggestions. It amazes me that you can diagnose things so well with out even standing by the tractor. The tractor is finally ready to plow snow for the winter. I e-mailed you a while ago about the tractor missing and the distributer cap fixed most of the problem just like you said. I tweaked the timing a little and now it is ready to go. Thank you for all the help. Jeremy

OC3 Compression

IP: 71.231.215.74 Posted on December 6, 2006 at 12:25:41 PM by Bill Guise, Kent WA

What is the specification for compression reading on an OC3. I have a reading of 120, and am not sure how to interpret it! Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks, Bill in Kent, WA

Re(1): OC3 Compression

IP: 67.2.249.167 Posted on December 6, 2006 at 09:34:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that 120 lbs compression would be pretty good. I don't have a spec sheet for this. You could check with Zimmerman Cletrac. Email: zoc@att.net Larry

Re(2): OC3 Compression

IP: 71.231.215.74 Posted on December 7, 2006 at 11:34:54 PM by Bill Guise

Thany You Larry for the follow up on the compression question. I had two at 120 and two at 5 Pounds. Tore into it and all valves were going up and down, and found that the head gasket blew between the cylinders. Will call Zimmermans tomorrow after I check the condition of the valve faces and guides. May only need gaskets, pistons are tight, no edges! Thanks Bill

1850 ignition switch

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on December 6, 2006 at 11:45:54 AM by jeremy

Larry, Thanks for responding about the tractor misfiring. You were right, it was the distributer cap. Thank you very much. I have one more question for you. I just bought a new ignition switch from Obrien's Implement. It has 4 posts like the one on the 1850 oliver, but in different places and they aren't labeled on the old switch. My question is would you know what wire on the old switch would match up to lets say the ignition, accesories, starter and battery posts on the new switch? The wires on the tractor are wrapped tight with tape and the ones exposed are very faded making it difficult to trace. I think I know which ones go to the battery and accessories, but am not sure on the ignition and starter. I am assuming the switch on the tractor is factory. Thanks in advance for any help. Jeremy

Re(1): 1850 ignition switch

IP: 67.2.249.167 Posted on December 6, 2006 at 09:32:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I can't tell you without looking at it. You will just have to try them and see if they work etc. Larry

Re(2): 1850 ignition switch

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 6, 2006 at 11:13:44 PM by J. Ulmer

Take a 12 volt tester and ground it and touch wires from the harness. The one that lights is your battery. Now use a jumper wire as if it were your switch and you can tell which is your starter (jumping it will turn starter relay on spinning starter) Hook test light to battery side of ignition coil and use jumper wire from battery (at ignition switch) to one wire. If your test light lights up you are on the ignition wire. If it does not, you are on the accessory wire. Good Luck!

Re(3): 1850 ignition switch

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on December 7, 2006 at 12:31:10 PM by jeremy

Thanks guys for responding. J. Ulmer I used your technique for checking wires and it worked. I think all of us Oliver lovers envy all the knowledg you guys have. We all wish you could be in our garages and shops with these kind words of wisdom. Thanks very much for the wisdom and time spent helping us. Jeremy

Cold Blooded 1550

IP: 4.89.185.136 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 07:11:36 PM by Marvin

I have a 1550 that when you advance the throttle, the engine dies.Under load it is okay.If you pull the choke a little it won't do it.Can you help me? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Cold Blooded 1550

IP: 67.2.242.73 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 11:02:10 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is to make sure that there is plenty of fuel coming out of the tank. Check the fuel strainer and look in the neck. Work down the line from there. It sounds like it is starved for fuel. Perhaps there is foreign material on the main jet of the carb, or something like that. Larry

1855 block

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on December 3, 2006 at 08:45:45 AM by randy

while grinding feed I think a piston froze up and the rod blew out of the block .I am in need of a new block and was wondering which type of others would work? tractor is a 1973 1855 oliver diesel. thanks Randy

Re(1): 1855 block

IP: 67.142.130.40 Posted on December 3, 2006 at 04:59:44 PM by Jason Epperson

There is a used block for your tractor for sale on e-bay right now. Just search under oliver 1855.

Re(2): 1855 block

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 07:41:05 AM by Larry Harsin

A block from a 1755 or a 1955 will work. They are a little different. I have a 1755 block that will work. If you are interested, email me (cobalt@rconnect.com) or call me (712-362-2966). Larry

New to an 880

IP: 4.252.233.114 Posted on December 2, 2006 at 10:39:03 PM by Dave

My 14 year old son just got an 880. We are new to Olivers and have a few questions. The hydra motor leaked alot of fluid. It looked like it was leaking out the top and not where the lines attach. We have ordered a seal kit to replace the seals. Is there anything else we should check? We have yet to find where to check the rear end oil level (I'm guessing the tranny, rear end, and PTO are all one compartment). There is no obvious dipstick. Is there a plug somewhere. Do you add oil at the right front of the transmission? Also, at the auction where we bought the tractor, a man who seemed to know about 880s told us a few things. He mentioned that the PTO lever went too far forward before it engaged. How do we adjust this? Thanks for any help you can give us.

Re(1): New to an 880

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 07:34:46 AM by Larry Harsin

The seals should repair the hydra motor. For the transmission rear end oil level, there is a 1/2" pipe plug on the right side of the transmission housing, just ahead of the right brake. The PTO does not share the same oil with the transmisssion. It has it's own level plug. It's a 1/4" pipe plug at the back of the housing, below the PTO shaft. You add oil to the transmission in front of the gear shift lever. It is a threaded cap that you open. To adjust the PTO lever, remove the cast iron cover that the lever goes into, and look for a worn pin. Also, there is a key inside, that can be broken or worn where the shaft is secured to the fork. Also, check the condition of the brass Throw-out bearing. If it is worn, you may need to replace it. You should get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. You can email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): New to an 880

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 08:25:03 AM by J. Ulmer

They did not mention it, but as regular readers here know the museum also has available SHOP SERVICE MANUALS detailing all repair procedures and PARTS BOOKS, both specific to your tractor for sale at reasonable prices which are invaluable when you start fixing something. You should ask about them as well when contacting the museum folks....knowledge is power!!! Good luck and have fun on ya'lls project.

Re(3): New to an 880

IP: 66.73.158.79 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 10:02:56 PM by Dave

Thank you very much for the info. I did find a plug just in front of the right brake. I had seen it before but thought it was a another drain plug because it is down low. Is this the right plug? I do have an operators manual ordered so that should help when it gets here. Thanks again.

Re(4): New to an 880

IP: 67.2.242.73 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 11:07:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is the plug that I was referring to. Yes, it is true that they have those other manuals, also, but you MUST get an Operator's Manual. I'm glad you have one ordered. There are things in it that aren't even in the Service Manual. Larry

1450

IP: 4.252.84.193 Posted on December 2, 2006 at 09:46:44 PM by mjsoliver

Hi Larry-- A friend of mine recently acquired a 1450 with a Fiat engine. He needs to add fluid to the hydraulic, transmission, and rear axle. Can he get something from TSC that will be adequate and what should it be?? Thanks--Mike

Re(1): 1450

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 07:22:49 AM by Larry Harsin

He should check in his Operator's Manual and compare it with what TSC has. I don't have a book for that tractor and am not sure what it should have. Probably, a multi-purpose hydraulic transmission oil, such as Hy-Tran or Hy-Gard would work or universal transmission hydraulic fluid, but he should check the manual first. If he needs an Operator's Manual, he can get one from the Museum in Charles City by emailing them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

OIL IN COOLANT

IP: 68.30.67.3 Posted on December 2, 2006 at 07:54:32 AM by R Walton

I have a 1755 that was repowered with a 354 Perkins. I am getting oil in the coolant. What would cause this?? Thanks for any info.

Re(1): OIL IN COOLANT

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on December 4, 2006 at 07:47:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I think we answered this by email. You said that the oil cooler was in front of the radiator. The only Perkins that I know about has an oil cooler between the engine and the fan. You may have something different (like a combine engine or something). In that case, I don't think I can help you. Ask Rick, O'Brien Co. Impl. Shop Foreman, about that also. 800-320-6224. Larry

Fender Tanks

IP: 207.140.222.7 Posted on November 28, 2006 at 09:18:53 AM by Chuck

Will fender tanks fit on a 1655 that is set up for narrow row?

Re(1): Fender Tanks

IP: 67.2.242.30 Posted on November 28, 2006 at 06:16:41 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That is a bad point about them. They won't work with narrow rows. Larry

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