"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - December, 2007 Archives


Oliver 550 Power Steering

IP: 72.48.174.198 Posted on December 31, 2007 at 09:43:29 PM by Robin Clark

We have a Oliver 550 the power steering pump will not pump, although we took it apart and it looks brand new inside would like to see if you had a scemadic of the pump and what the pressure rating on that pump is. The pump is a Cessna pump the number on the housing is g203340eea, I think, if you could help us out it would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 550 Power Steering

IP: 4.158.84.229 Posted on January 1, 2008 at 06:10:21 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a little relief valve on the back side of the pump. It might be stuck or bad or something. Larry


Oliver corn planter

IP: 216.106.26.196 Posted on December 31, 2007 at 01:31:50 PM by Ed Tellman

I bought a 2 row pipe mount corn planter with fertilizer. It was on a 1945 Oliver 70. I have a 1945 Oliver 60 that I want to mount it on. I haven't been able to figure out how to mount it and I don't know if I am missing some of it. If anyone would have a picture of the planter would be helpful. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver corn planter

IP: 4.254.114.175 Posted on December 31, 2007 at 09:15:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact the Floyd County Museum in Charles City IA. They will have pictures etc. Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


1655 diesel head gasket

IP: 206.125.159.104 Posted on December 30, 2007 at 07:11:37 PM by Mel

I have a 1655 that leaks under head gasket fire ring and blows gasket. Is there a way to fix this without taking engine down to bare block.

Re(1): 1655 diesel head gasket

IP: 4.158.84.60 Posted on December 31, 2007 at 05:45:23 AM by Larry Harsin

If the sleeve protrusion above the block is not correct, you will have to tear it down. Larry


880 sealed beam

IP: 72.171.0.148 Posted on December 30, 2007 at 11:15:54 AM by Jason Epperson

Hi Larry. How's it going? In an earlier post you mentioned soldering new bulbs into the 4 3/4 inch sealed beam housing. Do you know of any part numbers for this? Thanks.

Re(1): 880 sealed beam

IP: 4.158.84.60 Posted on December 31, 2007 at 05:43:34 AM by Larry Harsin

There are no part numbers. This is just how I fix them. I get the smaller halogen light assembly, I think it is a number 55 size, at my farm supply store and soder it right into the back of that sealed unit. Larry


1800 series Radiator interchangeability

IP: 75.186.118.16 Posted on December 28, 2007 at 01:24:42 PM by Jeff Schneider

I need a radiator for my '62 1800 series B. Will a radiator from a 1850/55 work? Hoses look to be in the same place. If not, is there any other possibilities?

Re(1): 1800 series Radiator interchangeability

IP: 4.158.84.8 Posted on December 29, 2007 at 07:44:56 PM by Larry Harsin

An 1850 gas might work. An 1800 C series might work. An 1800 A series would work. Larry


Oliver 1555 Problems

IP: 66.163.137.196 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 11:39:04 AM by Neil W

Need help. I have a lower houred 1555 tractor. When it runs it will run for about 30 minutes and then quits. If I let it sit for 8-10 hours it will start and run for 30-45 minutes. I replaced the distrubutor with a new set up, new plugs, coil, and wires, I have a new alternator, and the carb has been gone through. When the tractor stops, there is gas running out the front of the carb. The float is set where it is supposed to be and I even lowered the float a hair to see if that would help. The carb is a TSX 903. Before I replace it with a new Zenith, is there something else I should try? Not ready to give up on the tractor but am getting close if I can't get this figured out.

Re(1): Oliver 1555 Problems

IP: 143.115.155.55 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 07:22:46 PM by Larry K

Since you still have fuel to the carb. I would suspect interuption of electricity to the distrubutor. If you have save place to do this: HOT WIRE it. Run an insulated wire directly from the battery to the distributer. If this solves your problem then you need to check the switches and wires for defects. Some wires or contacts will break contact when they heat up.

Re(2): Oliver 1555 Problems

IP: 4.252.27.193 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 09:03:18 PM by Larry Harsin

That is what I would do also. Larry


770

IP: 167.239.217.100 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 09:26:03 AM by Larry Hardin

I have a 1965 770 with dual hyd set-up. When I start up and machine is cold, it pukes hyd oil out of top of the unit. What is a likely cause of this?? When setting in the barn on the level, the oil level is just under the full mark.

Re(1): 770

IP: 4.252.27.193 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 08:59:51 PM by Larry Harsin

It might be that you need new oil. Put in 10 weight oil that you can get at your Farm Supply Store. They have light, med, and heavy. Use the light weight and see if that helps. Larry


white smoke at start up

IP: 4.235.57.152 Posted on December 26, 2007 at 09:41:45 PM by mark

The 770 diesel I recently bought smokes ALOT of white smoke at start up. A friend suggested it could be a burnt valve, mis-adjusted valves or injector not working properly. As far as method of deduction, what's the best approach? i.e. which order to best find and correct the problem? Thanks

Re(1): white smoke at start up

IP: 4.252.29.109 Posted on December 27, 2007 at 05:22:37 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is remove the exhaust manifold. Then, start the tractor and see if there is any one cylinder that is causing the problem. I would also listen for leaking valves. If the engine has a lot of blow-by out of the breather tube, we can assume the compression is going past the piston rings. This will get you started. Larry


77 RC pto clutch

IP: 69.129.12.41 Posted on December 25, 2007 at 05:48:30 PM by Jeff Olson

The pto shaft on my grandpa's tractor spins whenever the tractor is running. The pto clutch doesn't disengage the shaft. If you put a pipe wrench on the shaft that will stop it. What is wrong with the clutch, an adjustment or springs? Where can I get parts. Thanks Jeff

Re(1): 77 RC pto clutch

IP: 4.158.84.146 Posted on December 26, 2007 at 06:22:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I am suspecting that you have trouble with your clutch plates and/or the center plate being warped. Also, there are 3 small springs, approx. 1" long, that spread the plates apart, when it is disengaged. These may be broken, missing or mis-shapen. You are going to have to disassemble the clutch assembly and replace any missing or worn parts. You can get parts at your local AGCO Dealer, or O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry


transmission

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 06:56:03 PM by Rod Liming

Larry: I have a 770 oliver which jumped out of 4th gear a couple of times. I was using 3rd gear hauling dirt up a hill and upon rolling back both rear wheels locked and I cannot move it. Any ideas? Also the tractor has a Westendorf loader mounted to the pads, are the pads of a 100,50,and 55 series the same if I decide to upgrade?

Re(1): transmission

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:16:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Those pads are all the same, if you decide to upgrade. If you have a power booster transmission, it is common to have those gears lock up. Simply pull the power booster lever back to low range. That should free up the gears. Larry

Re(2): transmission

IP: 205.188.117.7 Posted on December 24, 2007 at 05:14:28 PM by Rod Liming

Thanks for the advice but I forgot to mention that there is no power booster. Is it possible to get 2 gears locked in at the same time?

Re(3): transmission

IP: 4.158.84.104 Posted on December 24, 2007 at 08:25:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to go in there and see what is going on. While you are in there, you can see if 2 gears are locked in. Larry

Re(4): transmission

IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on December 25, 2007 at 08:20:21 PM by J. Ulmer

I had a Hancock 282 scraper which used a 1900 industrial on the power end. I had an oiling problem resulting in the reverse idler galding and welding to the input shaft so it ran backwards in gear in neutral and locked in any forward gear. Like Larry says...you've got to pull the top off and start seeing what's happening...that one and one more will make two for me and I don't know if i'll go again or not...might have been my first and last!!! Good Luck!!

Re(5): transmission

IP: 205.188.117.208 Posted on December 28, 2007 at 06:29:24 PM by Rod Liming

Larry: Had a look into the problem and the pinion shaft seems to be locked. I presume this would mean a complete strip of the trans. and a split of the tractor to get it out? Thanks for all the advice, know of anyone whom has a good rearend?


88 oliver standard

IP: 68.112.142.116 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:17:35 AM by jeremy

Hi Larry, I wast just given a 1948 old style oliver 88 standard, with the old style 80 grill. I have two questions. It needs a new intake and exhaust manifold. Will the manifolds off a 77 or 88 or super series of a row crop, standard, etc fit my tractor. Or what would match? The hood of the tractor is also wrong. The exhaust hole is on the right side and the manifold is on the left. The guy before me just cut an extra hole on the left side. Will a hood off of a 77 or 88 fit? Or would I need to find a hood of an old 80. Thanks in advance for all your help.

Re(1): 88 oliver standard

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:13:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The hood for an old style 88 is the only hood like that. These hoods are very hard to find. You may have to take yours to a body shop and have it reworked. There isn't another one that will interchange. The manifolds off of a S88 will work. Larry

Re(2): 88 oliver standard

IP: 68.112.142.116 Posted on December 26, 2007 at 05:52:44 PM by jeremy

Thanks for your reply Larry. I will then spend my efforts on fixing the hood I have on my old style 88 standard. When you write S88 am I interpreting that meaning super 88? Does that mean only a super 88 manifold will fit the old style 88 standdard? Or will a regular 88 manifold work as well. Thanks for your help. I am excited to get this thing running.

Re(3): 88 oliver standard

IP: 4.252.25.45 Posted on December 26, 2007 at 09:14:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, S88 is Super 88. On the manifold, all regular 88 manifolds will work as well as the S88 manifold will work. You can get a new reproduction exhaust manifold from Valu-Bilt. It will bolt onto your intake manifold, if it is o.k. Larry

Re(4): 88 oliver standard

IP: 4.252.25.45 Posted on December 26, 2007 at 09:17:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Looking back at your post, I see you need both manifolds. Valu-Bilt has both. Their phone: 888-828-3276. Larry


S/N Location

IP: 71.226.91.18 Posted on December 22, 2007 at 01:51:57 PM by mark

I recently purchased a (1962?) 770 Diesel. In searching for the S/N, I cannot locate the tin plate. Where else on the tractor can I find the S/N as I am not sure of the exact year and manufacture date of the tractor.

Re(1): S/N Location

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:09:30 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a casting date on the bottom of the trans housing. There could be a casting date on the engine crankcase above the starter. There could be an engine build date stamped on the top surface of the cylinder head, in the area of the thermostat, where the thermostat housing bolts to the head. The number stamped in the top of the cylinder head will be the closest to the date the tractor was built. It was stamped on the date the engine was built and the tractor would have been built within a month or two after that. The serial number plate would have been on the left side of the hydraulic unit on the dash. Larry

Re(2): S/N Location

IP: 24.20.74.178 Posted on December 30, 2007 at 07:49:20 PM by larry nilson

are these s/n localtions 4 CYC same for A 4 CYC ROW CROP? I GOT 2 IN NEED TO FIND WHAT THEY ARE THANKS L NILSON

Re(3): S/N Location

IP: 4.158.84.215 Posted on January 31, 2008 at 08:43:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. They are in the same places. Larry


1650 Lift Problem

IP: 69.5.203.39 Posted on December 21, 2007 at 04:28:16 PM by Bill

The lift with a bale of hay hung with the lift in the up position. Would not come down. Over a couple days it finally drop. Now will not go up or down with lever. I can lift the lift by hand and hear the rod moving. Linkage look good. No visible problem with servo valve. Pump appears okay. Can still steer when driving. idea??

Re(1): 1650 Lift Problem

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:04:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the by-pass valve, by your right heel, is turned in. Refer to your Operator's Manual about this. Larry


electronic ignition

IP: 70.44.64.222 Posted on December 21, 2007 at 10:14:27 AM by Codie

Is there an electronic ignition avaliable for the mallory distributors on an Oliver 1550? If so, where could I find one? Would coil and plug wires have to be changed for one?

Re(1): electronic ignition

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 10:02:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Denny's Carb Shop in Fletcher OH 937-368-2304. Website: www.dennyscarbshop.com You might want to get an "Extra-hot coil". But Denny's will know what you need. Larry


starter interchangeability

IP: 216.114.121.35 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 10:56:14 AM by Jonathan

Will the starter off of an oliver 1950 detroit 453 diesel fit an oliver 1850 354 perkins diesel? thanks!!

Re(1): starter interchangeability

IP: 4.158.84.178 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 07:40:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't believe it will fit. Larry


Super 55 Diesel

IP: 24.21.75.248 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 11:35:34 PM by Chief 83

I've installed new rings and head gasket on my diesel 55. The tractor had sat with a stuck motor for probably several years. I can get it to start and run pretty well at fairly well at high rpm, wants to quit if I lower the rpm. It will run for about 15 minutes and then quit. It's really hard to start at that point. In any case WD 40 down the intake is required. When it quits it acts like it's running out of fuel. I've been told it could be a lift pump issue, injector pump timing or an injector pump issue. I'm going to rebuild the lift pump first. Any thoughts?

Re(1): Super 55 Diesel

IP: 4.158.84.178 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 07:39:28 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you are on the right track. If the lift pump repair doesn't cure the problem, I would suspect that the head on the main injection pump is weak. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Diesel

IP: 24.21.75.248 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 10:35:39 PM by Chief 83

Fuel pump parts are on the way. If it is the injector pump is that a relatively easy fix for an injection shop?

Re(3): Super 55 Diesel

IP: 4.158.84.58 Posted on December 23, 2007 at 09:58:33 PM by Larry Harsin

It's going to be expensive. Call Central Fuel Injection and talk to them about it. 712-362-4200. Larry

Re(4): Super 55 Diesel

IP: 68.54.189.66 Posted on January 13, 2008 at 04:25:21 PM by Dick Witmer

On my S55 diesel the lift pump check valves came loose and the engine quit running. I took the pump apart and reinstalled the check valves and staked them. That was a long time ago; just got it running again, (almost 15 years of sitting),doing fine so far.I want to pull it in the antique pulls this summer.


1600 points gap

IP: 69.27.52.153 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 04:56:05 PM by Mar v

I have an Oliver 1600 that has been converted to 12 volt negative ground. The coil has been changed to a 12 volt with negative to the distributor. The tractor is burning points in a few hours. I may have the points gap wrong. Can you tell me what the points gap should be? Thanks, Marv

Re(1): 1600 points gap

IP: 4.158.84.16 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 10:44:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The point gap is .020. You may want to install an automotive type resister on the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the coil. Larry

Re(2): 1600 points gap

IP: 69.27.52.165 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 08:46:28 AM by Marv

I had the gap set at .025. I will install new and reset to .020. I will check the coil, I think it has the internal resistor. If so, would that eliminate the need for the resistor on the switch wire? Thanks very much for your reply. Marv

Re(3): 1600 points gap

IP: 4.158.84.178 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 07:42:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. If it is burning the points, I would still put on a resistor. Larry


77 RC Hydralift

IP: 12.24.238.19 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 11:33:17 AM by Adam

I inherited my grandpa's 1949 oliver 77 and want to know if and how I can get hydraulics on it so I can use it more on the farm. ? If I get hydraulics on the 77 can I still get a three point and loader on the tractor, or is that to much for the tractor? Thank you for your time.

Re(1): 77 RC Hydralift

IP: 4.158.84.16 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 10:42:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I have hydraulic systems that will fit on your 77. If you want one, call me: 712-362-2966. The tractor will still handle a 3 pt. and a loader. If you want to have a loader and a 3 pt. together, it will require a 2 spool valve to operate the loader. Larry

Re(2): 77 RC Hydralift

IP: 207.67.121.78 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 07:29:30 PM by Adam

What is involved in modifying the tractor so it has hydraulics? How much is a hydraulic system that you have?

Re(3): 77 RC Hydralift

IP: 4.158.84.178 Posted on December 20, 2007 at 07:33:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Give me a call after Christmas and I will explain it all to you. Larry


Oil bath air cleaner

IP: 207.69.140.23 Posted on December 18, 2007 at 12:18:31 PM by Blaine Wiley

I have a Oliver Supper77 Diesel. After 100hr. use, the oil in the air cleaner was gone. The engine smokes some out the breather and exhaust. It uses a little oil,[seldom have to add]. What causes the oil in the air cleaner to disapear?

Re(1): Oil bath air cleaner

IP: 4.252.30.5 Posted on December 18, 2007 at 11:54:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Does your tractor have the correct air cleaner on it? If the tractor has oversized pistons, it may be telling you that you need a larger air cleaner. Larry

Re(2): Oil bath air cleaner

IP: 207.69.140.51 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 09:13:02 AM by Blaine Wiley

I'm sure the air cleaner is the original one. I have the head off and measured the pistons. 3 and 1/2 in.

Re(3): Oil bath air cleaner

IP: 4.158.84.16 Posted on December 19, 2007 at 10:37:32 PM by Larry Harsin

That is the correct size of piston. You need to check the air cleaner every 25 hrs. and replenish the oil if necessary. I believe the Operator's Manual says to service it daily in dusty conditions. Larry


Hydralic pump problems

IP: 4.252.212.243 Posted on December 17, 2007 at 05:31:47 PM by Ray Patrilla

My 1950T had very strong hydraulics until it was run all day with the three point arms fully raised, but with the pump trying to continue to lift them. Now they are slow to lift and the engine rpms must be raised to about 1750 before they will lift a heavy implement on the three point or through a hydraulic cylinder. I have not checked the pressure at the couplings but suspect it is low. What did I do to damage them and how hard is it to correct? Thanks!

Re(1): Hydralic pump problems

IP: 4.254.116.130 Posted on December 17, 2007 at 09:37:22 PM by Larry Harsin

You have ruined the hydraulic pump and you will have to replace it. It has gotten hot. After you replace it, you will have to readjust your linkage on the 3 pt. lift control so it won't do that. Larry

Re(2): Hydralic pump problems

IP: 4.131.20.16 Posted on December 18, 2007 at 07:59:20 PM by Ray Patrilla

Well, that was what I thought, but not what I wanted to hear. I'll have to pull the cab and deck to replace it won't I? What other models share that pump?

Re(3): Hydralic pump problems

IP: 4.252.30.5 Posted on December 18, 2007 at 11:49:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You will have to remove the cab and deck. You will have to pull the hydraulic unit off of the tractor. Other models that share that pump are 1750 and 1850. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. I would get a new one, I wouldn't mess with a used one. Larry


Yellow Oliver backhoe id

IP: 74.249.83.190 Posted on December 16, 2007 at 07:22:48 PM by jeff capell

Bought a yellow oliver backhoe with no data plate. Don't know what model it is. Cast in valve cover 180239 101 386a Cast in cylinder head 180602 Cast in block 180220-h 104807a 464 Cast in axle 1ea700b Any other places I could look to help identify a model and year so I can buy a service manual for it? Thanks, this is a great site. Jeff

Re(1): Yellow Oliver backhoe id

IP: 4.254.116.0 Posted on December 16, 2007 at 11:01:28 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a 770 Industrial. Larry


1850 diesel won't start

IP: 71.29.177.241 Posted on December 15, 2007 at 04:49:23 PM by Chris Scott

I have an 1850 oliver diesel, the motor went bad and we replaced it with a 354 out of a 750 Massey Ferguson combine. It will not start off the fuel. All the filters are full, we have bled the lines, we have pulled it to start it but nothing. However, it will start and run off of starting fluid but nothing else. Could the problem be timing or something else?

Re(1): 1850 diesel won't start

IP: 4.158.84.107 Posted on December 15, 2007 at 09:57:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your injection pump isn't working. I don't think it is out of time, but you could check it. After I checked the timing, I would crack the lines at the injectors and see if the pump is delivering fuel to the injectors. Larry


rear end gears

IP: 24.180.180.17 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 08:44:53 AM by matt strasburg

What is the easiest way to get more speed out of a super 77. We are looking for a couple more mph for tractor rides.

Re(1): rear end gears

IP: 4.158.84.165 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 08:50:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The easiest thing to do is put on larger tires. A S77, typically has 13.6x38's. If you'd go to 14.9x38's, that would be the easiest way to do it. Larry


1800B hydraulic fluid

IP: 207.69.137.6 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 05:48:37 AM by Larry Nichols Jr.

Got a '63 1800 series B that needs hydraulic fluid. Don't knowwhat has been used before and want to do a change out. What type fluid would you recommend?

Re(1): 1800B hydraulic fluid

IP: 4.252.27.194 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 05:53:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use a medium non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry


1600 Hydra Power

IP: 69.92.89.189 Posted on December 13, 2007 at 09:58:24 PM by Dave

Larry: I have a 1600 gas and the under side of the Hydra Power drive slips once in awhile. Where should I start? Thanks!

Re(1): 1600 Hydra Power

IP: 4.252.27.194 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 05:52:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The unit will have to be removed from the tractor. A new sprag clutch will have to be installed, plus any other parts that are worn and the seals will have to be replaced. I would also check the lube circuit valve and install a new valve seat there, if needed. Larry


over under

IP: 72.251.63.210 Posted on December 13, 2007 at 07:59:17 AM by corre

Are all over unders the same? Or are there different ones? I am looking at a used one for my 1650. The guy said from an 1855. Will this work? Thank you for any help

Re(1): over under

IP: 4.252.27.194 Posted on December 14, 2007 at 05:49:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The input shaft is going to be different. You'll have to get an input shaft from a 1650. The bell housings are different. The bell housing that you have would probably work on the hydraul (over and under). I THINK it might work. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He could tell you in a minute if it will work. 800-320-6224. Larry


1948 Oliver 88 Standard diff. and gear oil change

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 04:06:27 PM by David

I drained both bottom plugs (about 7 gal.)I see only one place to replace the oil, next to the gear shift. Will this fill both reservoirs and if this is the case, how much would it take to refill and what weight oil to use?

Re(1): 1948 Oliver 88 Standard diff. and gear oil change

IP: 4.158.84.187 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 08:33:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is where you put the oil in and it will seek it's own level in both compartments. It will take 5 gal. I would use 90 weight transmission oil. Larry


70 rc steering

IP: 70.10.48.75 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 03:16:40 PM by reggie alston

I have 1941 70 rc. the front wheels shakes in high gear. can you help? thank you.

Re(1): 70 rc steering

IP: 4.158.84.187 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 08:31:32 PM by Larry Harsin

This is a common problem on the 70 RC. You'll have to try to get the "play" out of all of the components of the steer ing system. It might help if you would have less air pressure in one of the front tires, than the other. Larry


Unknown tractor

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 09:21:58 AM by Nick Hauth

I recently purchased an Oliver tractor.I can only find ID tags for the loader(Oliver778)and the backhoe(Sherman 6-8).It is rather small machine with a 6cyl diesel and a power shift transmission.Any ideas where to look for an ID tag for the tractor?Thanks

Re(1): Unknown tractor

IP: 4.158.84.187 Posted on December 9, 2007 at 08:28:29 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a tag attached to the left side of the dash that will have the serial number on it. With that, we can tell you the year it was built. You have a 770 Industrial 6 cyl diesel. This is the only Oliver they made the 778 loader for. Larry


Plowing with a 1365

IP: 143.105.96.96 Posted on December 6, 2007 at 02:36:51 PM by Randall

I have an Oliver 1365. I am looking to purchase a set of plows. I have 30 acres that have not seen a plow in 20 years and have some brush grown up. The plan is to mow down the brush in the Summer of 2008 then plow the field in 2009. What size plows would you recommend for this 55 HP tractor on a field that has not been plowed in a while?

Re(1): Plowing with a 1365

IP: 4.158.84.87 Posted on December 7, 2007 at 05:09:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say a 2 bottom or a 3 bottom mounted plow. Probably 16" bottoms. I have a 3 x 16 plow that would work. Call me if you are interested in it. 712-362-2966 Larry


880 gas engine slow to get to operating rpm

IP: 75.228.53.27 Posted on December 5, 2007 at 06:45:00 PM by Matt

I have an 880 with a gas engine. For years it's worked good. This winter (northern MN), when starting it, it will start at idle regardless of where the throttle lever is at. As the engine warms up (over 10-15 minutes), the engine rpms will slowly increase until eventually it runs like normal. The throttle will operate normally except that the engine will not go any faster than it wants to on startup. Otherwise it seems to run fine. Once warmed up it runs great. Any ideas where to start looking?

Re(1): 880 gas engine slow to get to operating rpm

IP: 4.158.42.18 Posted on December 5, 2007 at 08:08:36 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check for, as far as this engine is acting, is restricted or blocked air intake. For instance, water that has gotten into the air cleaner and frozen, so that air has a hard time getting through the cleaner. I would say approx. 3/4 open on the throttle, to run the PTO on your snowblower. You can get a new RPM gauge from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net Larry


1850 hyd shift

IP: 74.33.206.254 Posted on December 5, 2007 at 02:59:59 PM by Herbert

To put a sprag cluch in does the engine have to be pulled?

Re(1): 1850 hyd shift

IP: 4.158.42.18 Posted on December 5, 2007 at 08:02:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It does. The engine has to be removed from the tractor with the unit. Then, the unit must be taken apart and the sprag clutch replaced. Larry


old Oliver engine

IP: 71.7.19.241 Posted on December 4, 2007 at 08:37:48 PM by Greg

Hi Larry, I have come across a old Oliver engine in my dads machine shed. I'm not sure what it is, tho I know he had a couple Olivers, a Super 88 & 88. Not sure where he got it. I was going to scrap it, but I'm curious if its of any value. The head is not on it, and the pan is off. Can you give me a idea what it would be worth money wise, or should I just scrap it. Thanks for your time.

Re(1): old Oliver engine

IP: 4.252.27.31 Posted on December 4, 2007 at 10:59:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to tell with out takng it apart. But if it has been laying like that for a number of years, it is probably just good to go to the "iron man". Larry


Draft control on 1950d

IP: 4.225.172.85 Posted on December 3, 2007 at 11:54:08 AM by brian

I believe I have a stuck valve or linkage in the draft control. The 3 point will kind of do what it wants at what ever setting. Any help would be appreciated

Re(1): Draft control on 1950d

IP: 4.158.84.17 Posted on December 3, 2007 at 08:39:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I would take the lid off of the hydraulic unit and look at the servo valve. There may be something that is broken or sticking. Larry


1650 3 point inoperable

IP: 216.229.17.65 Posted on December 3, 2007 at 08:36:08 AM by Jeff Lampmann

I'm looking at buying a 1650 diesel, but the owner claims the 3 point won't move and hasn't since he's owned it. He indicated the hydraulic remotes worked and that there is an oil leak around the pto shaft. Does this sound like a seal issue or perhaps something more involved?

Re(1): 1650 3 point inoperable

IP: 4.225.172.85 Posted on December 3, 2007 at 11:41:09 AM by brian

I have a model 1950d and the 3 point did not work. Turned out to be a broken roll pin inside the top hyd-housing under the seat in the linkage. hope this helps

Re(2): 1650 3 point inoperable

IP: 4.158.84.17 Posted on December 3, 2007 at 08:44:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It may be that the bypass valve on the side of the unit may be turned out for one way operation on the remotes. Try turning it in and see if it works. Read your Operator's Manual about this. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


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