"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - December, 2008 Archives


1650 hydra drive

IP: 74.38.182.35 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:41:35 PM by Jeff Oliver

I have a 1650 gas with hydra drive. The problem is it is stuck in low range. It pulls fine and doesn't jump out but i won't go back into direct. when I pull the rod up the valve moves in but nothing changes. Also on the small hydraulic line behind the filter on the drive unit the top fitting leaks some. The line will pulse when it is either pushed or pulled ( I can't remember which right now but will check again tomorrow for sure) and doesn't when it is the other way. I was told that sometimes the valves can stick and cause this. What can I do to check it and can I get it unstuck and in direct without taking the unit off the tractor?

Re(1): 1650 hydra drive

IP: 75.104.161.152 Posted on January 1, 2009 at 06:29:19 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can feel pressure in that line when you push the lever down (or into direct), that would indicate that the direct drive is pressurizing. That would mean that that clutch is working. When you pull the lever up, the pressure should stop going through the hose and then it would be in under drive. If you do not have under drive, it could be a sprag clutch that is not holding or there could be splines worn off at the output gear or shaft. Larry


Oliver 1250 Engine

IP: 88.202.52.8 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:07:19 AM by Tom

I have found a 1250 gas tractor with a spun main bearing. From what I have found is that this engine is hard to find parts for and if you do find parts it is costly. I have heard a IH c153 engine is a good replacement. Is this true if so is it a drop in or does it require a bit of work. I hate to see this tractor scraped.I am looking for help to bring her back to life.

Re(1): Oliver 1250 Engine

IP: 75.104.188.127 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:39:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. This tractor's engine is hard to find parts for. I haven't heard of this engine conversion. If you do it, I'd be interested in hearing how it goes for you. If that would work, it would be a way to repair those little tractors. Larry


carb freezing?

IP: 4.159.59.105 Posted on December 30, 2008 at 11:05:17 AM by charles

I have a 1655 gas that the carb appears to be freezing up. it will start and run O.K. but after a short time it will stall and the carb is covered with frost if I pull out the choke it will run a bit longer before it stalls any insight? thanks.

Re(1): carb freezing?

IP: 69.130.193.131 Posted on December 30, 2008 at 09:16:43 PM by tom w

I have a 1964 1600 and I have the same problem with frost on carb even during summer. I have been putting lots of gas line antifreeze in it and it seems to help.

Re(2): carb freezing?

IP: 75.104.188.127 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:33:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd cover the radiator so that it doesn't have so much air going through there. Be sure the thermostat is working. This is a common problem at temps around the freezing point. Larry


1550 trans shifter

IP: 71.30.31.234 Posted on December 30, 2008 at 04:21:23 AM by Jim Harris

I have a 1550 that does not shift from low side gears to high side gears without bumping the shifter rod lightly while applying pressure on shift lever. It shifts from high side to low side gears with no problem. Any help would be appreceiated. thanks Jim

Re(1): 1550 trans shifter

IP: 75.104.188.127 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:31:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm suspecting that you have either a worn fork or shifting collar or both of them could be worn. Take it apart and go from there. Larry


neutral switch

IP: 68.154.22.164 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 09:51:39 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, Where can I get a neutral switch for 1655?

Re(1): neutral switch

IP: 75.104.188.127 Posted on December 31, 2008 at 06:29:20 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from your nearest AGCO Dealer or from Tom at O'Brien Co, Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Engine Oil 880 gas

IP: 70.6.225.40 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 10:48:55 PM by Bryan

What oil do recommend I use in an 880 gas engine. Multi or straight weight mineral oil. Operate in Montana.

Re(1): Engine Oil 880 gas

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:51:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I run 10w30 year around. In warmer weather, you may want to use 15w40. Larry


Paint Oliver 88

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 01:42:34 PM by Nate Wedde

I have a 1949 oliver 88 row crop and I want to paint it soon. What colors should I use, and who can I get them from?

Re(1): Paint Oliver 88

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:50:32 AM by Larry Harsin

The green will be a bit darker than Meadow Green. From NAPA, for the green match Martin Senour 99L 8746. For the red match Martin Senour 99L 3752. For the yellow on the grills use Martin Senour 90T 3753 or "Old Cat Yellow" from your Farm Store or Hardware store. You can even buy this in rattle cans and spray them yourself. Larry


770 throttle problems

IP: 71.173.68.93 Posted on December 27, 2008 at 07:18:09 PM by Nick

I've got a '59 Oliver 770 that's been giving me throttle problems, when I first got it it worked ok, but not 100%, the previous owner had added an extra spring to the linkage so that the engine would not race. Well recently the spring broke and the engine started to race whenever I touched the throttle, I was able to correct this problem by adjusting the linkage the way it is detailed in the owners manual, but this has created a new problem. Even though I've tried quite a few times to adjust the throttle linkage exactly the way it is detailed in the owners manual, whenever I try and use the throttle, the engine reaches full speed before the hand throttle has even been pulled halfway down. I pulled the governor cap off and looked at the governor and couldn't see anything wrong but I'm hardly an expert on governors, the weights seemed loose and slid freely on the shaft but I couldn't figure out if that was how they were suppose to work in this kind of governor or not. What I'm wondering is whether this sounds like a problem that could be caused simply by old, worn, and bent linkages, or could there be a problem in the governor so that it is not slowing the engine like it is suppose to?

Re(1): 770 throttle problems

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:42:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the governor and look at it more thoroughly. I'm wondering if the governor has come loose from the gear. They should be tight together. Also, install a new thrust washer between the gear and the engine block. Inspect it closely for worn surfaces where the thrust washer sets etc. and where the weights contact the thrust bearing. There shouldn't be anything binding inside or out on any of the linkage. Larry


1800C 3 point problem

IP: 99.49.18.220 Posted on December 27, 2008 at 03:56:25 PM by Jason Goodman

The 3 point won't lift big round bales (1600#), only the smaller ones, I installed a guage on the hydrulic system as shown in the shop manual, and I am only getting about 1600 psi at full throttle, then it is dropping off after a few seconds of struggling to 1500 psi. It is full of fresh fluid, in the shop manual it says to shim the relief valve, where do I get the shims? Or is my pump weak?

Re(1): 1800C 3 point problem

IP: 4.249.21.253 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 12:13:40 PM by Larry from Maryland

If it is the relief valve it will make a noise and shimming might help. If there is no extra noise its likly a weak pump.

Re(2): 1800C 3 point problem

IP: 99.49.18.220 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 11:54:08 PM by Jason Goodman

Thank You Larry, No extra noise when under load, Where would you suggest to get a new pump? Anything else to plan on doing while I have it apart? Gaskets for pan to transmission? Where to purchace?

Re(3): 1800C 3 point problem

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:36:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I would reccomend trying to shim it and then if it isn't better you are going to have to get a pump. You can call your local AGCO dealer or Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


oliver 550

IP: 71.0.97.51 Posted on December 27, 2008 at 06:23:33 AM by peggy

I need your help and advice. I had a leak in my radiator during the summer put stop leak in the radiator along with water. I forgot that I needed to add antifreeze before winter. I went to start up the tractor and found out the engine is frozen. I thawed out the engine and radiator. The freeze plug did it's job. Now. I need to find out what damage is done with this engine. I can't replace the freeze plug at this time (I dont' have a place I can remove all the sheetmetal) can I use a expansion plug in place to get the engine circulating etc. I am so heartbroken due to my dumb mistake. Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:30:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can get a rubber or cork stopper and see if it will hold coolant. You can try it and see what damage there is. You will be VERY fortunate if you didn't wreck a radiator or ruin an engine block. If you discover you have ruined your block, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry


1655 oil/unburnt diesel fuel?

IP: 134.129.30.22 Posted on December 26, 2008 at 01:28:45 PM by karl

Yesterday was a cold day pushing snow in North Dakota. About 3 hours into pushing I noticed the muffler had a slimy oil substance dripping off the outside of the muffler creating a 3 inch pool on the hood. It almost smelled like engine oil. The tractor idles and revs okay when warm, maybe a slight rough at 1300 rpm when cold engine. I use #1 diesel fuel and Howes diesel additive. Do I have injector problems? do I have a cracked ring/piston/valve problems? 3325 original hours. It doesn't seem to use oil - one quart a day last summer - Or is weather just too cold and the fuel isn't getting burned. I normally use the intake maninfold heater to start but with the sub zero temps of last week, I used ether (engine block heater is always plugged in) Could I have wrecked something with the ether? Can I keep using the tractor or should I get it checked out ASAP?

Re(1): 1655 oil/unburnt diesel fuel?

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:27:20 AM by Larry Harsin

If your engine isn't operating a 180*, that could be part of the cause of the slimy oil residue. If the engine isn't running hot enough, I would cover the radiator and see if that helps it warm up better. You might have a bad injector or you could possibly have one cylinder thats low on compression and not burning the fuel properly. You may not be working the engine hard enough to make it warm up and burn properly. If you can't get the tractor to quit doing this, remove the exhaust manifold and start the tractor. Then check to see if one cylinder is not burning fuel and just smoking. I doubt if the ether had anything to do with anything. Those engines are made to work and you might not be working it hard enough and that might just be all that it is. Larry


oil filter tube

IP: 142.154.165.30 Posted on December 26, 2008 at 07:25:42 AM by jimmy

1942 oliver standard 60 how do I remove oil filter tube part #h-5506 ( is it friction fit or threaded end )thanks jimmy

Re(1): oil filter tube

IP: 4.249.21.253 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 12:16:32 PM by Larry from Maryland

Its just stuck in there. Do not remove unless you HAVE to, repeated removeal can make it loose.

Re(2): oil filter tube

IP: 142.154.165.5 Posted on December 28, 2008 at 04:56:53 PM by jimmy

I was changing engines from standard 60 ( rod broke cracked block)I took siezed engine from row crop 60 and in the move broke tube I drilled and epoxed tube in to-day I am now replacing the sleeves from standard to row crop block how do you seal sleeves any help

Re(3): oil filter tube

IP: 75.104.161.9 Posted on December 29, 2008 at 06:17:49 AM by Larry Harsin

That tube is held in by friction. The epoxy should work. To seal the sleeves, you have to install new O rings and apply liquid dish soap to the block and the new O rings. Larry


correct part placement.

IP: 72.9.28.198 Posted on December 23, 2008 at 08:45:50 AM by w cannon

I installed a brand new zenith carb on my 1550 oliver and while transfering the choke to the other side of the engine I took the carb apart. While I had the bottom half of the carb in my hand upside down a small brass tube fell out onto my lap. I dont know where it came from. There was 2 possible places to put it. I put it in the long hole that goes straight up and down. The other possible place to put it was the longer angled hole. I am hoping you can tell me where this part belongs. The tractor runs better than it did but it is still not right.

Re(1): correct part placement.

IP: 75.105.57.202 Posted on December 23, 2008 at 11:01:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Any Zenith carb I've ever worked on didn't have a small brass tube that would fall out. Maybe you have a newer version of one. Try it in each place and see which one works the best, I guess. Larry


1963 Oliver 1600 Gas

IP: 66.225.25.114 Posted on December 23, 2008 at 08:03:42 AM by Bruce Wieskus

I have a hydra drive transmission. How does a hydra drive work?

Re(1): 1963 Oliver 1600 Gas

IP: 75.105.57.202 Posted on December 23, 2008 at 10:58:14 PM by Larry Harsin

When you push the lever down, it is in direct drive and you have a higher speed. When you push the lever up, it slows down and you have more power. Larry

Re(2): 1963 Oliver 1600 Gas

IP: 98.65.195.66 Posted on December 27, 2008 at 06:21:36 AM by George Steadman

BTW, don't have it up when going downhill unless you really need the speed. This will freewheel the tractor.


Super 88 Energy Cells

IP: 71.42.140.207 Posted on December 22, 2008 at 04:41:16 PM by Craig Scott

I had my Super 88 rebuilt, new pistons, sleaves, reworked the head, etc. The injectors were each rebuilt, I bought a rebuilt injection pump from Bill at Central Fuel Injection. The tractor acts like it is getting too much fuel, smokes very thickly and misses a lot at first and after a few minutes, it runs very well and the smoke clears. Could this be a problem with the pre-igniters (energy cells). If so, how would I know if they are bad? If they are bad, where can I get replacements, Bill does not know. He said to ask you.

Re(1): Super 88 Energy Cells

IP: 75.105.57.202 Posted on December 22, 2008 at 08:21:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Typically you won't have to replace the energy cells. Pull the caps off and inspect each one and make sure it isn't plugged. If it is plugged, use a small drill bit or something and get in there and clean it and blow it out with compressed air. The cell body itself can be easily removed with a suitable puller, but I usually just clean them while they are in the head. Try this and see if it helps. If you still think it smokes too much, you may have to adjust the smoke screw on the pump. Larry


66 BELT PULLEY BOLTS

IP: 144.160.98.31 Posted on December 21, 2008 at 05:35:53 PM by PAUL VAN BUREN

ARE THE BOLTS HOLDING THE BELT PULLEY ON A 66 A DIFFERENT SIZE THAN FOR THE 77 AND 88?

Re(1): 66 BELT PULLEY BOLTS

IP: 75.104.161.81 Posted on December 22, 2008 at 06:22:43 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They are the same - a 9/16" fine thread cap screw. The ones that I have been getting from my farm supply store are 1 1/2" long. But, I think the book calls for 1 3/4" long with a lock washer. I havn't found these, so I use the 1 1/2" without the lock washer. Larry

Re(2): 66 BELT PULLEY BOLTS

IP: 69.208.3.15 Posted on December 23, 2008 at 11:31:10 AM by Terry Allen

You should be able to get the exact size at a fastener store. I have been using Fastenal for my S77 restoration and have been able to obtain all needed.


Diesel injector pump

IP: 74.192.77.2 Posted on December 20, 2008 at 05:37:14 PM by Tom Praytor

I'm looking for a book that will show me how to time a diesel injector pump for a 550 Oliver.

Re(1): Diesel injector pump

IP: 75.105.45.64 Posted on December 20, 2008 at 08:42:09 PM by Larry Harsin

Order a Shop Manual for a 550 from the museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry


770 Diesel

IP: 71.54.180.119 Posted on December 18, 2008 at 06:58:23 PM by mark

Also, how much would a completely clogged air filter line affect a diesel tractor from starting. It always has seemed like I have a fuel delivery problem but found we had a mud wasp nest in it blocking the flow likely 90% or so...) I'm restoring the tractor - I am in the process of having the injector pump rebuilt and then found this new issue as well when we were removing all the sheet metal. Just curious some thoughts out there - clearly I'm going at this as a novice! Determined but just not experienced in fixing old tractors!

Re(1): 770 Diesel

IP: 75.105.45.64 Posted on December 19, 2008 at 10:52:12 PM by Larry Harsin

If it was cutting off the air flow by 90%, that is affecting the starting. On some of those engine blocks, there is a threaded hole that would fit a 5/8" coarse thread. This was used for brace rods on a cultivator years ago. Larry


Super 55 radiator

IP: 12.216.7.181 Posted on December 17, 2008 at 10:32:00 PM by Jim Fitzgerald

Radiator went out on my 1955 Super 55 gas. Is at shop right now but I am wondering if you have any good used ones? Also, this one is non-pressured. Will a radiator for a 550 fit and bolt up (and be pressurized)? Seems all the aftermarket parts list a 550 one and nothing for the Super 55. Just thought I would explore my options depending on the price to recore/rebuilt. Thanks!

Re(1): Super 55 radiator

IP: 75.105.61.36 Posted on December 18, 2008 at 07:24:46 AM by Larry Harsin

If it can be done, you might be happier to have yours recored. I think the 550 radiator would fit, but it won't look the same as the cap will be above the hood. I don't have one. You could check with Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349. He has parted out several of these tractors. Larry


Oliver 1750 Tempature

IP: 75.104.128.37 Posted on December 17, 2008 at 08:21:31 AM by Chet Risser

I have a 1750 disel I feel that it never warms up on the guage. We put a new thermostat in it. What else could I check.

Re(1): Oliver 1750 Tempature

IP: 75.105.61.36 Posted on December 17, 2008 at 10:07:33 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably have a bad gauge or bad sending unit. Try grounding the wire at the sender, just momentarily, and see if the needle in the gauge wiggles. If it wiggles, it would indicate a bad sender. If the needle does not move by grounding it, it would indicate the gauge is bad. Larry


Block Casting #'s

IP: 206.40.119.75 Posted on December 15, 2008 at 07:52:11 AM by Bruce

I'm looking to find out what the stock block casting numbers were on the Oliver 88's, Super 88's, and 880's. I know that one will fit the other but I need to find out what they came stock with. A list of block casting numbers matched with tractor would be great. Do you know these numbers or is there a place where I can find this info? Thanks

Re(1): Block Casting #'s

IP: 75.104.183.55 Posted on December 15, 2008 at 08:36:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The most common one for the Fleetline 88 is K100C. The most common one for the Super 88 is K100E. The most common one for the 880 is KA100E. The ones for the Supers and the 880's will interchange. Larry


1955 Super 55 fuel tank

IP: 70.53.134.99 Posted on December 14, 2008 at 09:10:09 AM by Sylvain

Hello, I've bought a oliver 1955 super 55 gas for plowing. I'm new to mechanic, but willing to learn. Here's my problem: the gas fall down in the glass bottle, but when the gas level comes up to the drain, it stop. So the gas doesn't go up into the pipe, neitherway in the engine... If I loose the screw under the bottle and air comes in, gas starts to flow everywhere out of the bottle. The fuel tank seems to take it's air where it comes out. So here's my questions: Where does my fuel tank take it's air normally? It may be jam with ice. Unscrewing the cap doesn't help. Is that the kind of information I will find in a owner's manual? Please answer me, we are already under 2 feet of snow and the long canadian winter is just starting...

Re(1): 1955 Super 55 fuel tank

IP: 75.105.61.54 Posted on December 14, 2008 at 06:46:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You may need to clean the screen in the sediment bowl (glass bottle) or put in a new screen. The fuel tank cap is supposed to be vented (vents in the cap), possibly it is iced over. This is probably what is wrong. There might be some things in the Operator's Manual. You should have one. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA,(where the tractor was built). 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1955 Super 55 fuel tank

IP: 206.162.185.4 Posted on December 15, 2008 at 10:04:54 AM by Sylvain

Thank's for answering me fast. Unfortunatly, there is no screen in my sediment bowl or I haven't seen it... And my cap is clean. But I think I've found out my problem: My gas hose is fill with air that cannot get out, making a bad pressure in the hose. Maybe draining my carburettor (I hope this is the proper name..) until the air flows out will help sucking down the gas. I'll get in touch with the museum for a owner manual.

Re(3): 1955 Super 55 fuel tank

IP: 75.104.183.55 Posted on December 15, 2008 at 08:33:22 PM by Larry Harsin

If the screen is gone in your sediment bulb, you are going to have to remove your carb and take it all apart and clean it and get out all of the rust and crud. Larry


1555 o/u trans

IP: 24.239.62.168 Posted on December 13, 2008 at 04:11:09 PM by john moutsos

Hi , I want to know if it is possible to put a 1555 o/u trans in a white american 60. My 60 came with out the o/u , and I can't find a used one. I know the american series shifted electronicly and the 1555 shifted manualy. I appreciate any info or thoughts. Thanks, John

Re(1): 1555 o/u trans

IP: 75.105.61.54 Posted on December 14, 2008 at 06:38:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I have never done it, but I think it is possible to do it. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and ask him about this. He might also have an over/under to fit it. Larry


550 clutch adjustment

IP: 96.20.174.39 Posted on December 13, 2008 at 09:05:34 AM by Roger Fournier

I have a 1959 550. After plowing snow for 2 hours, my tractor seems like having very low traction. I guess my clutch is slipping. I have some small oil leaks under the transmission. When I depress my clutch pedal, it will have one inch free play then I feel a constant resistance to when it touches the floor. When going up I feel traction maybe half way up then the pedal will go up till it hurt the direction rod. When cold it seems like having no problems.Having the clutch rebuilt should cost me around $2000 over here(Quebec). Can I adjust the clutch pedal( lift it or lower it so it will *hold* a few months??? till warmer weather). Roger.

Re(1): 550 clutch adjustment

IP: 75.105.61.54 Posted on December 14, 2008 at 06:36:04 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have an inch of free travel, you won't get it to work any better by changing anything on the linkage. What I would do, is split the tractor and see how badly the clutch linings are worn. If they still have some lining left before it gets to the rivets on the lining, I would adjust the fingers on the pressure plate, moving the tips of the fingers toward the clutch disk about 1/4 inch, probably. The reason I am saying this is, as the linings wear on that particular clutch, the fingers back out away from the clutch disk and this lessens the pressure that the springs exert on the clutch disk. If you adjust the adjusting bolts so that they move the fingers towards the clutch disk, this will increase the pressure again so the clutch will hold better. Again, this won't fix a worn out clutch, but it will fix a half worn out clutch. If you don't want to do this right now, just be very careful with it and not slip the clutch till you have time to do this. Larry


1655 power steering cylinder

IP: 134.129.30.22 Posted on December 12, 2008 at 06:37:34 AM by karl Hoppe

I have a 1655 oliver diesel with 3200 hours and ezee on loader. I bought it from the original owner 5 yers ago. I just put in a new hydralic pump and 5 days later the front steering cylinder started to leak profusely. At first it looked like it blew out the end cap/seal on the driver left side. I looked further and it looks like part of the cast cylinder housing (the end that would? hold in the seal) is broke off. About 1/8- 1/4 inch deep appears to be broke off/missing for about 1/4 of the diameter. Does this mean a I need to find a new/used cast cylinder housing? where should I look? What is a reasonable used part cost? I was thinking tractor salvage. or is this the kiss of death for the tractor?

Re(1): 1655 power steering cylinder

IP: 75.105.57.160 Posted on December 12, 2008 at 07:09:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You will need a new one. I have one available. A used one will be around $250. They should be available at Tractor Salvage Yards. Larry


cab swap

IP: 72.9.28.198 Posted on December 10, 2008 at 09:33:31 AM by B cannon

I bought a year a round qt1 cab with hardware from a 1850 oliver and want to put it on a 1550 oliver. It appears the front brackets are not quite right. Am I right. It looks like the old front brackets will need to be reconfigured a lot or new ones made. If you can enlighten me on this subject. The rear mounts seem ok.

Re(1): cab swap

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 10, 2008 at 09:29:38 PM by Larry Harsin

You might be right, you may have to do a little modification. You will just have to use your judgement and do the modifications that will work. Larry

Re(2): cab swap

IP: 4.248.216.252 Posted on December 11, 2008 at 11:04:59 AM by larry from md.

Remember the rear axel of the 1850 is thicker than a 1550 so you may need new holes there too. i have seen that model cab on the smaller tractors. changeing the battery is a real chore with that cab unless you move it out first.


loader on 1750

IP: 198.174.42.39 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 06:48:50 PM by cal

I know you have covered this before, but can't seem to find it in the archives. I know I can put a seperate loader valve on my 1750 from the power beyond port. but I was wondering where I need to run the return line and if there are different kinds of valves for open or closed center hydraulics. Any segestions on which brand of valves work the best and where to find them?

Re(1): loader on 1750

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 09:35:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Lately, I have been using a valve from a company called Prince. Northern Hydraulics has them. 800-533-5545. The Sept-Oct issue of the HPOCA magazine has the detailed instructions for installing this. To request this issue, you can email: becky@hartparroliver.org or phone: 517-857-4042. It's an open center valve. Larry


1655 throwout bearing?

IP: 64.8.139.68 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 03:10:57 PM by Dave Paxson

I finished plowing snow this morning with 1655/gas and a back-blade. Pulled into the shed to park and while holding in the clutch heard a rattly sound from transmission. Is it likely a throwout bearing? What is the trouble-shooting procedure? How how long can I drive it before wrecking something? If I send to a shop what might it cost? PTO spins very slowly all the time-no adjustment left. Is this something to repair at the same time?

Re(1): 1655 throwout bearing?

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 09:26:04 PM by Larry Harsin

If it just makes a noise while you are holding the clutch down, it could be a throw out bearing or pilot bearing going bad. If the tractor has the hydraul shift, the engine will have to be removed before you can fix it. This would be a good time to check out the PTO, while stuff is torn down. If you are hearing funny noises, I wouldn't drive it. It could easily cost $1000. Larry


Blockage in Coolant Jacket Super 88

IP: 74.204.40.18 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 02:03:19 PM by Ralf Cunningham

Larry, I have had some overheating problems with my 1955 Super 88. I had talked to some people who said the water jackets around # 6 cylinder sometimes get plugged with rust/sediment. I pulled the drain pet#### on the engine and it does seem to have alot of sediment. Any suggestions on how to clean this without teardown. Someone suggested muric acid but only leave it in for a short period of time. Are there any system flushes available over the counter that you recommend. Thanks

Re(1): Blockage in Coolant Jacket Super 88

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 09:21:03 PM by Larry Harsin

You could try using a piece of welding rod or something and putting it in the hole and wiggle it around and see what you can get out of there, but I'm afraid you will have to take it apart. There are various radiator flushes etc, but I think you are wasting your time with them. I think you will have to take it apart and clean that stuff out of there. You have to remove the sleeve first. You might be able to remove the cylinder head and using a power washer to flush it out. That way you wouldn't have to take it completely apart. Larry


1800 C - Leaking from Flow Divider

IP: 66.170.53.24 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 05:46:37 AM by Jim Smith

I was finishing plowing the headlands on one of our pasture fields this afternoon and driving on plowed ground. I hit a frozen clod (big one) and the front right wheel turned completly to the right (almost 90 degrees). Then my steering would only work to the right and no action to the left. After some cussing and kicking, I noticed hydraulic oil dripping from the rear end. Upon closer inspection oil was flowing at a rate of 1 drop ever 1 to 2 seconds. I limped back to the barn and sprayed it with brake cleaner for a better look. The oil was seeping out of the Flow Divider where it connects to the Hydromotor line. I attempted to tighten the connection but the flow of leaking oil continued even when the conneciton was tight. I removed the hydromotor line and the flow divider (frigging Year-A-Round cab) and could not see any obvious damage to the line or the flow divider. Any thoughts on what I can do to fix it other than replacing the line? The steering has been wobbly, but I attributed that to a bad steering sector arm, but that was just conjecture as I have not attacked that chore yet.

Re(1): 1800 C - Leaking from Flow Divider

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 09:15:13 PM by Larry Harsin

If you can't get that to stop leaking, you are going to have to replace the line. If that doesn't do it, the next thing would be to replace the flow divider, I suppose. First thing would be the line. Larry


Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 209.237.116.18 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 07:42:46 PM by Steve L

I have used my 77 for years.Last used about 1 mon.ago, ran good, shut down OK. Tried to start today and crank only turned about 15 degrees. Put wrench on and can turn back and forth only 15 degrees, but doesn't feel like solid stop, can't hear anything. If liquid lock, has to be more than one cyl? Easy way to relieve liquid, short of tear down? Or mabe other problem. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 9, 2008 at 09:39:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if the transmission has ice in it. Try holding the clutch down while you turn the engine. That way you'll know if it is the engine or the transmission that is causing the problem. You can warm it with a Knipco, if that is what it is. Larry Re(2): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 209.237.116.18 Posted on December 11, 2008 at 08:14:18 AM by Steve L.

Thanks for the reply Larry, I already tried that, it's not the transmission. Help! Steve Re(3): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 75.105.57.160 Posted on December 12, 2008 at 07:12:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Get it inside in a warm building and try to get it warmed a bit. Liquid lock in the engine is a possibility and will mean that you have to tear it down. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 67.142.130.13 Posted on December 12, 2008 at 04:04:37 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Steve, you were trying to turn it with someone holding the clutch pedal down right? If the engine is in fact hydraulically locked, pull all the injectors out, then see if it will crank. If it does and fluid comes out, see what it is. Your repair will be based on what comes out.


1650 engine

IP: 72.171.0.140 Posted on December 7, 2008 at 09:26:49 AM by Dustin

I have a 1650 gas engine that always fouls out #6 Plug when it sits for any length of time. It never miss fires after you put a new plug in all day (running) but after it sits #6 just doesn't fire until you put a new one in. It has all new plugs, Electronic Ignition, Cap, coil, and wires. Timed to factory specs.

Re(1): 1650 engine

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 07:16:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd install a hotter plug in that cylinder and try that. Thinking about this some more, you might have an engine that is over fueled. Check to see if you can turn the load needle in on the carb to starve the engine. If it won't starve the engine, the load needle is not installed properly and off to the side of it's seat. Simply remove the needle and reinsert until you can starve the engine by turning it in. This is a common problem on these engines. Larry


rebuilding a 1655 gas

IP: 69.208.240.215 Posted on December 6, 2008 at 06:52:45 PM by Ang

My dad is trying to rebuild or fix his Oliver 1655 gas tractor. He is looking for the torque specifications for the Main and Rod Bearings, the Head Bolts, and the Fly Wheel

Re(1): rebuilding a 1655 gas

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 07:12:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Torque on the head bolts and the main bearings is 100 lbs. The rod bearings is 45 lbs and the flywheel is 56 lbs. Larry


1750 engine

IP: 166.128.170.216 Posted on December 6, 2008 at 06:13:21 PM by Brian

I was just try to find a good used 310 diesel. Any ideas where I should look?

Re(1): 1750 engine

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 07:07:43 AM by Larry Harsin

You could call Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934. You could call salvage yards. Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 are 2 you could check out. You could also advertise in the Oliver collector magazines. Oliver Heritage www.oliverinformation.com or the HPOCA magazine www.hartparroliver.org I have found that most of the used 310 engines need to be overhauled when you get them. Larry


parts numbers

IP: 68.220.105.168 Posted on December 5, 2008 at 07:22:49 AM by Cleon Couey

I am finally getting around to ordering the rod and main bearings for the 1655.At the YT parts site it says for 265 cu. in. gas or diesel. Mine is 283 wakesha diesel I think. And how should I determine which size I need std. or other?

Re(1): parts numbers

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 06:59:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1655 diesel was built with a 283 Waukesha. You should get a micrometer and measure the rod journals so that you know what size the journals are. MOST bearings are marked on the back side of the bearing. It will say Standard or 10 or 20. If a crankshaft has been ground, they are stamped with the appropriate undersize. Usually if the crankshaft has been ground, they will be stamped on either side of the front rod bearing. Larry


1850 oliver

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on December 4, 2008 at 01:24:33 PM by jeremy

I have an 1850 gas. My manual is incomplete that I ordered. It mostly covers the diesel motor. What are the torque specs on the rod bearings and main bearings? Would these be the same on a gas as a diesel? I have the head torque at 130 lbs. What other torque values am I missing for the engine? Thanks for all your help.

Re(1): 1850 oliver

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on December 8, 2008 at 06:51:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Torque on the rod bearings is 46 lbs. On the main bearings it is 130 lbs. The 1850 diesel is different from the gas. It has a Perkins engine. The head at 130 lbs is good. Larry


1949 Oliver 88 Row Crop

IP: 66.103.188.249 Posted on December 1, 2008 at 04:44:48 PM by Amy V

Why does my Oliver 88 have a oil air cleaner, was it a add on? I have not seen it on any other 88's

Re(1): 1949 Oliver 88 Row Crop

IP: 75.104.169.14 Posted on December 1, 2008 at 07:12:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Most tractors of that vintage had the oil bath air cleaner. The newer tractors, starting in the mid- 60's have the dry type air cleaners. Larry

Re(2): 1949 Oliver 88 Row Crop

IP: 66.103.188.249 Posted on December 2, 2008 at 08:15:32 AM by Amy V

My style on top is yellow metal, should it be a glass bowl style instead?

Re(3): 1949 Oliver 88 Row Crop

IP: 75.104.169.14 Posted on December 2, 2008 at 08:11:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Not necessarily. There were after market places that sold different styles. That is probably what you have, Larry


Oliver88

IP: 66.103.188.249 Posted on December 1, 2008 at 04:27:01 PM by Amy V

Why do the rear wheels whine so loud when I drive my 1949 Oliver 88? How do I repair it.

Re(1): Oliver88

IP: 75.104.169.14 Posted on December 1, 2008 at 07:10:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The tractor has spur gears and that is just the nature of the tractor. They are noted for that whine. Some are worse than others. Larry


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