1750 3point

IP: 63.232.43.85 Posted on December 31, 2009 at 06:49:21 AM by cbrown

The 3 point on my 1750 will settle down when the tractor is off. Its fast enough i can see thje snowblower moving. And while the tractor is running it will constantly move down then up making the remotes slow for the loader. i notice if i moved the 3 point lever down to keep the snowblower on the ground then the remotes work fine. i was thinking an oring or something in the servo valve is bad. Not sure if that would cause this or not. Any ideas? It is still usable but very frustrating. The tractor is a 1968 model.Thanks for any advice.

Re(1): 1750 3point

IP: 75.104.189.231 Posted on January 1, 2010 at 09:38:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The one thing to check with the engine shut off and the snowblower raised, if you push the 3 pt. lever to the down position, the snowblower should not move. If it does move down, then your problem is probably in the servo valve. If it doesn't move down, then oil is usually getting by the O ring on the cylinder piston. If you determine it is on the servo valve, it is the top front plug and usually the ball check is stuck in the plug because it is caught in the ball check spring. Larry

winter oil

IP: 69.24.189.139 Posted on December 30, 2009 at 10:29:18 AM by todd

What would be the best oil to run in a 1650 (gas) During winter time to help it turn over .Theres 15-40 rotella in there now and it barely turns over.And is there any other recomended fluids that should be run in the tranmission or the hydralics etc?

Re(1): winter oil

IP: 75.104.189.231 Posted on January 1, 2010 at 09:32:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use 10w30 in the engine in the winter. The other fluids in the tractor are pretty much year around. But in the engine I would switch in the winter. Also, if you want to use the tractor in real cold below zero weather, I would say to use a magnetic oil pan heater. That makes them start a lot better. There is also a coolant heater available, if you have to start it on a daily basis in real cold weather. Larry

Broken lug bolts

IP: 66.31.121.152 Posted on December 29, 2009 at 02:10:17 PM by Dan

Larry, I went to take out one of the 5/8-11 Lug bolts that hold the wheel centers to the axle hubs on my 1850 and the head sheared right off. Then tried another... same thing. I went real easy with not much muscle in it. They are not frozen in there, just seem brittle. Ever see this happen? I cant seem to find new ones either. Everyone only carries a fine thread. Thanks

Re(1): Broken lug bolts

IP: 75.104.189.231 Posted on December 30, 2009 at 07:48:48 AM by Larry Harsin

They should be a grade 5 bolt. Do they have the 3 marks on the head? That could be the problem. Any machinery dealer or farm supply store should have them. If you can't find them, email me and I'll send some to you. Larry

Re(2): Broken lug bolts

IP: 66.31.121.152 Posted on December 30, 2009 at 08:07:47 AM by Dan

Larry, they are grade 5 with the 3 marks. I was surprised to see that they were a coarse thread and not fine.?

Re(3): Broken lug bolts

IP: 4.248.219.135 Posted on December 30, 2009 at 05:04:15 PM by Larry from MD

Are they the ones with the taper head? Those are hard to find no one around here has them or can order them. Those suckers wear a little at the base and then they break right off.

Re(4): Broken lug bolts

IP: 66.31.121.152 Posted on December 31, 2009 at 06:43:19 AM by dan

Yes, thats the ones! I tried to find some myself with no luck

Re(5): Broken lug bolts

IP: 75.104.189.231 Posted on January 1, 2010 at 09:28:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Dan, would you give me a call so we can talk about these bolts. I may have a few. 712-362-2966 Larry

1650 oliver

IP: 69.24.189.139 Posted on December 29, 2009 at 10:03:22 AM by todd

Hi,i was wondering if you could help?my friend bought a oliver 1650 and it is truly neat machine.but we unloaded it off the trailer and he drove it down the driveway and it quit. we had the carb rebuild and new plugs and wires and points etc.Well got it running great around thanksgiving and left it set .Well he went to start it to uese it and it just fires when you turn it over then it stops !It looks like there is a few hair line cracks in the intake manifold will that make it not run when its cold ?Iyou could please let me know what you think we would like to get it running to use the loader and backblade.

Re(1): 1650 oliver IP: 75.104.188.165 Posted on December 29, 2009 at 01:26:38 PM by Larry Harsin

If there are cracks in the intake manifold, it will contribute to problems. I doubt if that is the problem, however. I think you have a problem somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil. I don't think it is getting enough electrical current on the "run" position on your switch. This could be a bad switch or the wire from the switch to the coil could be bad. This wire that goes from the switch to the coil is a resistance wire. Try hot wiring it, by running a direct current to the coil. If it runs o.k. then the above mentioned problem might exist. If you determine it is the switch, just replace the switch. If you determine that it is the resistance wire. Then you will have to run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil and then put a resister by the coil to replace the resistance wire. Larry

1600 D/hdrapower

IP: 66.79.55.54 Posted on December 27, 2009 at 09:55:57 PM by marvin

when plowing in direct drive,and you need to shift to under side, the tractor justs comes to a STOP!. If you push the main clutch down and right back out the tractor continues on. When you shift back to direct it works fine. Every time you pull the hydra rod out for under side it's the same problem. Oil is full. Any thoughts?

Re(1): 1600 D/hdrapower

IP: 75.104.188.165 Posted on December 28, 2009 at 08:43:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Your sprague clutch isn't working. You will have to tear the unit down and replace the sprague clutch. Larry

1850G oil filter

IP: 66.31.121.152 Posted on December 26, 2009 at 06:34:42 PM by Dan

Larry, I have an early 1850G and was wondering if it is a full flow or bypass system? I thought I read somewhere there were 2 different filters for depending on the system.

Re(1): 1850G oil filter

IP: 75.104.188.165 Posted on December 26, 2009 at 08:21:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a full flow system. The correct filter is part # 156149AS. Larry

tis the season

IP: 67.42.236.129 Posted on December 24, 2009 at 08:14:44 AM by e firestone

to say Merry Christmas and Happy New Year thankyou for a whole year of enjoyable reading, and help with all the questions... and my oliver equipment book is great...

Re(1): tis the season

IP: 75.104.161.154 Posted on December 25, 2009 at 04:51:53 AM by Larry Harsin

There is another book you would probably enjoy. It is called "The Tractor Builders" by John Culbertson. It is about Charles City and the area and the people from the turn of the century till 1993. Charles City is where the tractors were built. They have this book at the Museum also. 641-228-1099. Merry Christmas! Larry

Oliver 77 Distributer

IP: 216.74.219.159 Posted on December 23, 2009 at 03:04:14 AM by Jeffrey Sharp

I took my Oliver 77 engine to the rebuilder with the distributer in place. It came back without it installed. I am having trouble getting it back in. Does the tractor have to have the engine in a certain position for it to slide into place?

Re(1): Oliver 77 Distributer

IP: 75.104.188.156 Posted on December 23, 2009 at 06:03:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The engine has to be turned to Top Dead Center number 1. Then, install the distributor with the rotor pointing to number 1 cylinder. The oil pump has to be timed the same in order to get the distributor in like that. When you look down into the drive for the distributor, the wide side would be away from the engine. Larry

1650 misses under load

IP: 69.95.240.14 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 03:01:40 PM by willy disher

oliver 1650, converted to electronic ignition, tractor runs good until engine heats up, then is developes a miss and loses power, sometimes pulling the choke helps, but not always, lessening the load returns to full rmps

Re(1): 1650 misses under load

IP: 75.104.189.107 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 05:25:20 PM by Larry Harsin

My first thought is to check the spark plugs. Make sure the carb doesn't have dirt in it. Make sure the neck in the fuel strainer doesn't have foreign material in it where it comes out of the fuel tank. Larry

Super 55 fluid capacities

IP: 208.38.83.110 Posted on December 19, 2009 at 10:36:50 PM by Rob Forrest

Hi Larry, What are the transmission, hydraulic, and differential fluid capacities for a gas Super 55. Thank you, Rob

Re(1): Super 55 fluid capacities

IP: 75.104.190.101 Posted on December 20, 2009 at 07:09:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The trans and final drive holds approx. 5 gal. The hydraulic holds approx. 7 qts. Larry

Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 69.208.1.158 Posted on December 19, 2009 at 07:49:22 PM by Terry Allen

Were different engines used with the three gear and five gear transmissions?

Re(1): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 75.104.190.101 Posted on December 20, 2009 at 07:07:55 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The 3 gear engines were all the same. The 5 gear engine was built with a lot of the same parts as the 3 gear had. They were both Continental engines. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 99.164.110.41 Posted on December 20, 2009 at 10:14:14 AM by Terry Allen

Mine has a distributor on the right side. Is this correct? I'm confusted because of references indicating a 3 gear engine has a magneto on the left and the 5 gear has a magneto on right?

Re(3): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 75.104.189.107 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 06:30:08 AM by Larry Harsin

When they were made, both were equipped with magnetos. The distributors were an after market item by Delco-Remy. Your's is a 3 gear and the distributor is on the right side. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 99.155.212.232 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 12:32:06 PM by Terry Allen

Thanks for the info. Didn't releaize that the distributor was an after-market item. Still confused because the tractor has a 5-gear transmission. Sherry Schaefer's data indicates the 5 speed was built between 1944 and 48. My SN indicates it was made in 1948 and it has a 5 speed transmission.

Re(5): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 75.104.189.107 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 05:22:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have a 6 speed transmission. Check again. Possibly this is causing the confusion. Larry

Re(6): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 76.253.135.29 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 08:22:06 PM by Terry Allen

Yes, you are correct; it is a 6-speed transmission.. My confusion was with the timing gear reference (3 gears in later and 5 gears in earlier models). This is explained is Section II of the service manual. What do think of the upgrade from a magneto to distributor for tractor value and performance?

Re(7): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 75.104.188.156 Posted on December 23, 2009 at 06:05:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any opinion on that. Either one is fine. Larry

three point hitch cat.3

IP: 74.47.65.77 Posted on December 16, 2009 at 08:06:53 PM by elmer yale

2255 oliver 3 point hitch cat 3 will not go up .power stering and pto is working and the hydralic pump has 2000 pounds presure on gauge,what do you think is the problem?

Re(1): three point hitch cat.3

IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on December 17, 2009 at 06:59:41 AM by Larry Harsin

There could be some control linkage not working, such as a pin being sheared. It could be on the inside of the unit. Larry

1800 C Diesel

IP: 4.255.47.218 Posted on December 16, 2009 at 07:27:58 AM by Larry West

Hi Larry, Just thought I'd update my progress with the 1800 (from Oct 23, 2009). Finally got everything cleaned up and apart. The energy cells were completely missing. Guess that's what burned up the caps, spacers and some of the plugs. Thanks again for the tip on O'Brians. Jason was able to find new energy cells, caps, spacers and plugs for me. Also ran the injectors through the shop .... none of them were up to specs and none matched each other! Its going to warm up this weekend, so should get a chance to put it all back togeather. Thanks again for all your help and info. Have a Merry Christmas and great New Year! Cheers, Larry

Re(1): 1800 C Diesel

IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on December 17, 2009 at 06:57:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Good to hear you got the problems solved! It is a wonder it ran at all! ! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours also. Larry and Sandra

Re(2): 1800 C Diesel

IP: 4.255.44.232 Posted on December 21, 2009 at 06:54:25 AM by Larry West

Got the old girl running this weekend! Fired right up and runs like a clock .... no smoke, no popping and with a new muffler, nice and quiet! Thanks again for all your help. Cheers, Larry

Super 55 brakes

IP: 71.221.199.109 Posted on December 14, 2009 at 08:21:38 PM by Delmer Riel

We recently put new brake disks in my 55. The left brake was adjusted and works fine. NO matter how I adjust or work with it the right one drags all the time. They both worked ok before they were worked on. What did I do wrong?

Re(1): Super 55 brakes

IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on December 16, 2009 at 05:46:04 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to take it apart again and see what isn't right. One thing that it might be - you may have tightened up the three, 5/8" bolts too tight. Try loosening them and see if that helps. This is possibly what is wrong. Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.64.68 Posted on December 14, 2009 at 08:59:15 AM by corre

I just put new rod and main and a used camshaft in this tractor I have a poping when it opens up from idleing for a little time it dont miss under load was wondering if timing or bad injector where would you start thanks for your help

1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.189.150 Posted on December 14, 2009 at 12:57:09 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be either one. Larry

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.65.77 Posted on December 15, 2009 at 07:37:44 AM by corre k

I had tractor out today to move snow if I hit the preheat it will stop missing I broke the injector lines and one clyinder seems to have no effect on engine rest pull it down starts fine and has power no knock or anything what would you check thanks for help

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.53 Posted on December 16, 2009 at 05:42:57 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is the early style engine, I would check the energy cell on suspect cylinder. If it isn't plugged and o.k. then I'd pull the injector and have it tested. Also, before you do these things, turn the engine over with the starter and the stop control, so it won't start, and listen for leaking valves at the exhaust pipe. Larry

Re(3): 1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.63.230 Posted on December 16, 2009 at 07:03:47 AM by corre k

thanks Larry I will check on that it is an early model

1650 hydraulics

IP: 70.209.14.24 Posted on December 13, 2009 at 05:41:28 AM by Rick Phippen

My hydraulics stopped working, I took off the top and an eighth inch alum tube was laying on top, Dont't know what it does,It goes into the lid, looks like it came out of compression fittings, but is it the cause of hyd.s not working or could it still be the pump?

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.190.168 Posted on December 13, 2009 at 06:40:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the tube cause the unit to stop working. I think this tube is involved with the detents on your remote valves. Before you put the lid back on, plug that tube off from the lid. Then try it. Larry

Re(2): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 70.209.14.24 Posted on December 13, 2009 at 07:39:38 AM by Rick Phippen

Do I need to replace the pump then? the 3point doesnt work or the power steering. PTO works. nothing looks broken inside.

Re(3): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 4.248.220.192 Posted on December 13, 2009 at 12:06:47 PM by larry from MD.

There is no intake screen on the pump so small parts can go in and jam the pump. The keys that hold the gears onto the shafts could be sheared. One messy test would be to crank and start the engine with the top off.(be ready to stop)If the pump is doing anything oil will geyser out the top fast. If no oil you MUST take the whole unit off and apart.

Re(3): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.189.150 Posted on December 14, 2009 at 01:09:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Just try blocking that passage (just a pipe plug in there or something) so the oil can't go through there. Reconnect it and then try it. Larry

Re(4): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 70.209.19.66 Posted on December 17, 2009 at 03:20:37 PM by Rick Phippen

no mess. Thanks for your help. guess I'll have to go deeper.

1750 hydra-power coolant hoses

IP: 166.217.194.209 Posted on December 12, 2009 at 04:16:37 PM by Brian

I bought a 1750 without a engine.I have put a new engine in an have a question. Where do the coolant hoses go for the hydra-power? I saw a 1855 an it had a mess of hoses an a tank heater attached.They were attached at rear of block on the rh side an at the bottom of t-stat housing. Is this correct?If not then where ? Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 1750 hydra-power coolant hoses

IP: 75.104.189.150 Posted on December 14, 2009 at 07:38:15 AM by Larry Harsin

One hose goes on the thermostat housing next to where the by-pass hose is attached. The other hose is attached on the head below where the thermostat sets. Most of them have a temperature sending unit there also. Larry

seat repair

IP: 69.9.29.64 Posted on December 10, 2009 at 10:26:43 AM by Dave

Does anyone have a drawing showing how the rubber springs mount on a 1951 77 rowcrop seat?????

Re(1): seat repair

IP: 75.104.190.168 Posted on December 11, 2009 at 06:24:44 AM by Larry Harsin

It shows this in the Oliver 77 Parts manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

oliver 55 hydraulics

IP: 64.25.164.102 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 06:00:29 PM by glenn walker

i have lost all hydro power, diconnected the hoses and started engine, no oil comes out, tank is full. pump is internal under seat above rear transmission. any advice would be welcome. thanks.

Re(1): oliver 55 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 07:49:27 PM by Larry Harsin

If it isn't pumping oil, you are going to have to take the hydraulic unit off and remove the pump and see what is wrong. Larry

oliver 1600 snowblower

IP: 67.142.130.18 Posted on December 8, 2009 at 09:11:42 AM by sue webb

hi what size snowblower would I need for an oliver 1600 gas engine ?

Re(1): oliver 1600 snowblower

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 07:08:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try to get one at least wide enough to take out the tire tracks of the tractor. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1600 snowblower

IP: 72.171.0.139 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 11:11:12 AM by sue webb

does the 1600 oliver gas engine have enough power to run a 7' double auger snowblower? thanks

Re(3): oliver 1600 snowblower

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 07:51:29 PM by Larry Harsin

It will run it, but it won't go very fast. Larry

Re(4): oliver 1600 snowblower

IP: 70.209.14.24 Posted on December 13, 2009 at 07:44:05 AM by Rick Phippen

I have a 1650, I use an 8' snowblower, it doesnt throw the snow very far, but it does move a ton of snow. I used it for the first time, and my hydraulics went out, not sure if that is the cause, but the previous owner used it without a problem (that I know of).

price check

IP: 207.255.237.217 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 02:33:50 PM by Joe

Im currently looking at two oliver super 55s one is a restored diesel with new tires in very nice shape $3000 and the other is a gas all original missing a few minor peices with new front tires and half back tires every thing works $2500 are the prices in line. Thanks

Re(1): price check

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 7, 2009 at 06:33:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Very much in line. Both of those are reasonable price. Larry

Re(1): price check

IP: 207.255.237.217 Posted on December 8, 2009 at 05:49:32 PM by Joe

Another question, the diesel requires a little shot of starting fluid on the first start up of the day, Im thinking its because of a lack of glow plugs on the old motor, is that right and is there any thing to worry about?

Re(2): price check

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 9, 2009 at 07:07:20 AM by Larry Harsin

It would be worth a try to get the manifold heaters (glow plugs) working. This is the first thing I would try. Larry

1650 gas

IP: 69.95.239.222 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 09:28:09 AM by willy disher

I have a 1650 gas oliver, beautiful tractor,when hot under load, engine sometimes backfires and loses power, not always. any solutions.

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 12:08:32 PM by Larry Harsin

You might try putting some insulation on the fuel line between the carb and the gas tank. Also, you may want to put a sheet of insulation between the engine and the fuel tank. Larry

880 starter

IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on December 5, 2009 at 04:34:01 PM by Tyler

Larry, I have a 59 880 gas tractor. The starter, when I turn the key, will spin, but not engage the flywheel. As the starter is of an older style, the parts houses here cannot test it. The gear spins up into place redily. (I took it apart and looked for obvious problems) Should I be looking elsewhere before I invest in a new starter? I replaced the solinoid switch ($36), but do not wish to troubleshoot by hanging parts (new starter is $265 from O'Brien) Thank you

Re(1): 880 starter

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 07:06:33 AM by Larry Harsin

If you took it apart and can't see any thing obvious, it is a bit mysterious. It sounds like a broken Bendix spring. I'd take the starter to a starter repair shop and have it repaired. In case you don't have a place to get this done, I get them repaired at Worthington Ag Parts. 800-533-5304 . Larry

1800 Oliver repair

IP: 70.178.179.45 Posted on December 5, 2009 at 01:32:40 PM by Tim Langley

I have a 1800 oliver that I have recently purchased, the front steering will only go about 50 to 60 % either way. The owner told me that he hit a chuck hole in the field and thats when it started to do the steering problem. What are your thoughts on what it could be.

Re(1): 1800 Oliver repair

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 07:01:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I need more info about what type of steering your tractor has. Is it the mechanical assist or the full oil steering? Also, is it a narrow or wide front? Larry

70rc power lift

IP: 204.228.226.16 Posted on December 4, 2009 at 02:18:16 PM by Leland

I have a row crop 70, trying to find any info about the power lift,,ie how it works and what and how parts are connected to this.... thank you

Re(1): 70rc power lift

IP: 75.104.189.72 Posted on December 4, 2009 at 04:23:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It's just a mechanical clutch, self contained, similar to a mechanical lift on a plow in some respects. It is driven off of the transmission with a worm gear. Larry

880 Oliver

IP: 70.197.103.147 Posted on December 1, 2009 at 07:38:44 AM by Dusty

Hey Larry I have a couple questions. One will 880 sheet metal and mainly the grill work with a super 88 frame? And two will super 55 front 6 bolt hubs work on the 66-880 without different bearing cups? Thank you! Dusty

Re(1): 880 Oliver

IP: 75.104.189.72 Posted on December 2, 2009 at 09:36:39 PM by Larry Harsin

1. I havn't tried that, so I am not sure. 2. I don't think that will work because a S55 has different hubs than a 66 - 880. Larry

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