"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" February, 2001 Archives


oil change on 550 diesel

Posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 23:41:29: IP Address: 63.24.26.183 Arg hate to keep bothering ya aout these little things but dont have a book on the tractor yet so i have no idea what the hay is going on:-( i just change the oil in the trans and i took 3 plugs out of the bottome of the tractor they all seem to be for the same resovoir? i blew threw the fill plug just in front of the seat and air came threw all 3 holes (buddie was down there telling me if the air was coming threw or not;-p) i filled the plug in front of the seat tell it came out the back plug that is next to the pto( i was told this is the right way to do this? it took 5 gal of oil? seems like a lot? one other thing there is a fill hole right behind the seat just to the right? it has a mickey mouse cover on it seem like maybe it had a dip stick in it at onetime?? what is this fill hole for i can see oil in it but it did not drain when i took the 3 plugs out of the bottom og the tractor? where do i drain this from and what is this reservoir for? ARG need to get on buddie for my book:-( Thanks again larry! Fred...

Re: oil change on 550 diesel Posted by Larry Harsin on March 01, 2001 at 07:03:21: IP Address: 209.163.7.30 In Reply to: oil change on 550 diesel posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 23:41:29: The 3 plugs drain the transmission and rear end compartments. These 3 compartments hold at least 5 gal. of oil. The level plug for these 3 transmission compartments is at the right rear of the tractor rear end housing. The other compartment by the seat is for the hydraulic system. The oil has to be pumped out of this system with the hydraulic pump itself. I think originally it did have a dipstick in it.

Re: oil change on 550 diesel

Posted by John on March 01, 2001 at 09:08:41: IP Address: 192.232.119.194 In Reply to: Re: oil change on 550 diesel posted by Larry Harsin on March 01, 2001 at 07:03:21: That little dip stick is avail. from AGCO... last time I checked about $96. That's probably why the "mickey" thing


Steering

Posted by Tim on February 28, 2001 at 22:45:51: IP Address: 216.202.116.100 Larry I have a Oliver-Fiat 1355 wide front end tractor (very simular to Long 445). It is a four cylinder diesel with about 50hp. I think it is about 1970-73 year model. It had about 1/2 round of play in the steering so I torn into the steering gearbox located under the diesel tank just in front of the transmission shift cover. The box had very little oil in it and the upper taper-roller bearing was trashed. I think the worm gears may also be somewhat worn. Do you recommend complete rebuild. It doesn't need to be perfect as the entire tractor is worn. Went to local bearing stores today with no luck finding the two tapered roller bearings that fit top and bottom of the steering wheel shaft worm gear. Any suggestions for me? Thanks Tim

Re: Steering

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 23:33:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.67 In Reply to: Steering posted by Tim on February 28, 2001 at 22:45:51: Tim. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. : 800-320-6224. Larry


RC Steering Gear Box

Posted by Bundy on February 28, 2001 at 15:35:53: IP Address: 216.10.185.167 I have a 1954 RC 88. It now has a wide front but I do not think it is original. Is there any way to find this out? Also, the steering gear box is very worn. It will not hold gear oil, only gease. Do you have any suggestions for fixing the gear box or replacing the wide front if not original? Thanks for you help. Bundy

Re: RC Steering Gear Box

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 18:58:13: IP Address: 209.163.7.94 In Reply to: RC Steering Gear Box posted by Bundy on February 28, 2001 at 15:35:53: If you think the wide front possibly is not Oliver, send me a picture of it and I may be able to identify it for you. I have an Oliver wide front that will fit that tractor if you need one. I have no suggestions about the gear box. If you want to send it to me, I may be able to repair it. Larry


550 box scraper problems

Posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 00:37:04: IP Address: 63.31.186.113 I just bought a oliver 1960 diesel with a box scraper on it or do ya call it a gannon?? it is comeing lose on one side where it bolts to the axle? it does not look like it was put together right and it seems to me the other side will soon do the same:-( Can anone send me a picture close up of what the rear looks like where it bolts to the axle? i think it is missing some parts that i can probly make if i could see the propper way that it bolts up:-) thanks. Fred bedrock98@msn.com

Re: 550 box scraper problems

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 01:15:50: IP Address: 209.163.7.82 In Reply to: 550 box scraper problems posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 00:37:04: I need more information. I'm not familiar with what you mean by a box scraper on a 550. Larry

Re: 550 box scraper problems

Posted by fred on February 28, 2001 at 13:23:59: IP Address: 63.28.213.192 In Reply to: Re: 550 box scraper problems posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 01:15:50: sorry first tractor and not sure what im talking about myself. ok let me see i have a gannon on hooked to the back of the tractor and where the arms hook to the bottom of the axl on the tractor the bolt is coming lose. it just dont look like the proper way for it to bolt to the axl was looking for some pictures to make sure that it is properly hooked up? hope this is more clear than my last post. thanks for your time.. Fred.

Re: 550 box scraper problems

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 14:40:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.52 In Reply to: Re: 550 box scraper problems posted by fred on February 28, 2001 at 13:23:59: Fred. There is an arm that goes back from the axle to the 3 pt. that serves as a stabilizer. The bracket for that stabilizer is secured with the same 2 bolts that hold the fender on. That's all that I can think of. I am guessing that you are referring to a blade (scraper). I have no pictures to send. Larry

Re: 550 box scraper problems

Posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 23:26:37: IP Address: 63.24.26.183 In Reply to: Re: 550 box scraper problems posted by Larry Harsin on February 28, 2001 at 14:40:29: i got it fixed Larry i ran doown to the local used tractor dealer and took a look and see:-) it is hooked up about the same way all the other 3 point hitches are:-) thanks a bunch for your help! i will e getting a book on the tractor soon i hope?(friend i got it from has the service book just has to remmber where he put it;-p thanks again! Fred


auxilery outlet for hydrolics

Posted by jonesey murray on February 26, 2001 at 18:58:15: IP Address: 63.73.104.122 where can i on the tractor find the outlet for an auxilery hydrolic line to run a front loader on a 1961 1800 oliver also a return line thank you

Re: auxilery outlet for hydrolics

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 26, 2001 at 20:40:30: IP Address: 209.163.7.27 In Reply to: auxilery outlet for hydrolics posted by jonesey murray on February 26, 2001 at 18:58:15: The location is on the left front of the hydraulic unit behind the power steering flow divider. You will have to take the metal line loose from the flow divider and unbolt it in order to remove the 1/2 inch pipe plug that is behind the left end of the power steering where the flow divider sits. This plug has to be removed. Then you have to insert a 3/8 inch pipe plug that has a socket type head that will be in there 4 or 5 inches. This plug blocks the passage so you can bring oil out to your external valve. There will be a plug on the side of the unit just ahead of where the 3/8 in. plug sets in the casting. At this point is where you hook your hose on to go to your external valve. The exhaust port of the external control valve will be plumbed back to a 1/2 in. pipe thread hole at the point just behind where that blocking plug sits. If you have these operations completed, be sure to install the pipe plug you removed just behind the power steering flow divider. Then reinstall the flow divider. Larry


1650D Motor

Posted by Duane W. on February 26, 2001 at 17:11:34: IP Address: 12.100.121.94 Hi Larry, luv reading your site.. helps to pass the time at work and makes me oliver smarter. I have a question about a 1966 1650D. I have considerable blowby, Hard starting, and now thick oily green stuff coming out of the breather tub. Was told to run tractor on top side of "normal" to help clean out any carbon. Accomplished with bags over radiator, now I am getting the thick green stuff.. Where is it from and is it really BAD for the ol wallet.

Re: 1650D Motor

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 26, 2001 at 20:48:44: IP Address: 209.163.7.27 In Reply to: 1650D Motor posted by Duane W. on February 26, 2001 at 17:11:34: I'm afraid you have a tired engine. It is probably going to have to be overhauled. The 'green stuff' is sludge from the engine. The engine is probably worn so that there is too much space between the pistons and the sleeves so that you are getting 'blow by'. Larry

Re: 1650D Motor

Posted by Duane W on February 26, 2001 at 21:09:34: IP Address: 12.100.121.94 In Reply to: 1650D Motor posted by Duane W. on February 26, 2001 at 17:11:34: Thanks for the reply Larry, Just wondering if I am in danger of doing more damge to the motor if I contiune to run her for light work? The Tractor is more of a "project" than a worker. The budget has been broken by just getting her. Im trying to keep my current sleeping arangements with my wife! Also, are there any known weak places in the block that I should look out for during a rebuild? Any Idea on the cost of parts? Thanks again larry. Duane

Re: 1650D Motor

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 27, 2001 at 08:55:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.22 In Reply to: Re: 1650D Motor posted by Duane W on February 26, 2001 at 21:09:34: As long as you keep oil in the engine and make sure that it is running properly, it won't hurt to use this tractor. Richard Skinner had the same identical problems last summer and he ultimately rebuilt his engine. You can look back through our archives of "Ask The Oliver Mechanic". I just can't say what months. The ballpark figure for costs on an overhaul would be $2500 - $3000. We can help you locate parts and get prices if that will help. Larry

Re: 1650D Motor

Posted by Duane W on February 28, 2001 at 18:32:48: IP Address: 12.100.121.94 In Reply to: Re: 1650D Motor posted by Larry Harsin on February 27, 2001 at 08:55:02: Thanks larry, looks like I'm going to have to get into her quicker than I wanted.. I Found antifreeze in the crankcase today. Hope this does not mean "worse" than I thought. I might get back intouch when I figure out what I need. I have been using Miabach Tractor in creston OH. for parts. They seem to be reasonable.. Qouted around $1,300. for rebuild kit for bottem end. New pistons, liners, rods, rings and bearings. He said it was complete. Was the $2500-$3000 price for just parts? What do (Should) you do when you rebuild on of these? Thanks again Larry. Duane W


1850 tractor width

Posted by Jim on February 25, 2001 at 06:14:14: IP Address: 207.198.23.46 Hi Larry, I have just finished putting a new differential in one of our 1850's. While I had things apart I decided it would be agood time to widen the tractor some,[we work some hilly ground and did it for the stability] I slid the hubs out to about 1/4" of the end of the axle for an overall width of 8 feet 4"s .My question is do you think this will put to much strain on the axles? I have an owners manual but it doesn't say anything about what the position of the hub should be on the axle. The tractor could also be widened by switching the wheels and rims around but that looked like a much bigger job. I would apreciate any thoughts you might have on this.P.S. I enjoy your site.

Re: 1850 tractor width

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 25, 2001 at 08:07:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.68 In Reply to: 1850 tractor width posted by Jim on February 25, 2001 at 06:14:14: I don't forsee any trouble. In my experience you will be just fine. Glad you enjoy the site. Larry


1650 Diesel Running Rich

Posted by Richard on February 24, 2001 at 07:17:34: IP Address: 63.166.22.5 Hi Larry, wanted your advice on the 1650D. SInce I installed the pump, the tractor runs fine, but she has a pretty good black haze coming from the exhaust from about 1/2 load to full load. She is also burning "Alot" more diesel than before. I just made 2 passes in my Sandy Loam Field (10 acres) with a 8' tandem disc and I used about 45 gallons of diesel in 10 hours. Normally it uses 25 to 30 gallons to do the same job. The whole time I'm pulling the disc she has a black trail coming from the exhaust. Now, its not real, real black, but more of a haze. Does this seem normal or does she appear to be over fueling some? Also, I have set up bosh pumps and Cummins PT pumps before, but I haven't ever messed with a Roosamaster. Is there a fuel screw that limits the amount of fuel or soot? Is there anything "I" can do while its on the tractor to tune?

Re: 1650 Diesel Running Rich

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 24, 2001 at 08:25:21: IP Address: 209.163.7.65 In Reply to: 1650 Diesel Running Rich posted by Richard on February 24, 2001 at 07:17:34: Richard. Adjust the torque screw "in". This screw is located towards the rear of the governor housing and goes in at an angle. This torque screw limits the opening of the metering valve. You will have to break the seal to adjust this setting. Turn it in a half a turn at a time and try it and see how it works. Larry


Thanks Larry Harsin!

Posted by Carl on February 23, 2001 at 21:39:00: IP Address: 64.33.161.3 Thanks to Larry Harsin for his helpful advice on my 1650 gas overhaul. Started her up yesterday and runs like a top! Sucessful overhaul job. Love those Olivers!

Re: Thanks Larry Harsin!

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 23, 2001 at 23:47:14: IP Address: 209.163.7.25 In Reply to: Thanks Larry Harsin! posted by Carl on February 23, 2001 at 21:39:00: You're welcome!!! It's great to hear about someone having good luck with their project. Larry


1250 diesel

Posted by Dan McAdams on February 22, 2001 at 23:14:02: IP Address: 216.23.40.89 What's your opinion of a 1969 1250 diesel? Any hints, tips, etc. would be much appreciated. Thanks - Dan

Re: 1250 diesel

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 22, 2001 at 23:47:38: IP Address: 209.163.7.96 In Reply to: 1250 diesel posted by Dan McAdams on February 22, 2001 at 23:14:02: I'm not much of an authority on those. That little Fiat is a good engine. There aren't that many in this area of the country. But they are a good tractor. Larry


Remove White 2-70 Hydraulic Lift Assy

Posted by Hal S. on February 22, 2001 at 18:46:14: IP Address: 24.185.197.237 Larry- I'm trying to remove the whole lift assembly from a 2-70. I removed all the linkages, oil lines etc., and all the cap screws. It appears to be stuck on pretty good. Does it sit on 2 dowel pins, on one each side?? These appear to have some rust around them; ever see it get stuck on these, or is it just the gasket holding.?? I want to be sure I haven't missed some bolt or whatever before putting a little more force to it. I removed the gear shift assembly, was this necessary? Will I have a problem getting the neutral safety switch back in place, is there anything I should know about that? Thanks.

Re: Remove White 2-70 Hydraulic Lift Assy

Posted by larry wolfe on February 23, 2001 at 19:53:41: IP Address: 64.244.12.29 In Reply to: Remove White 2-70 Hydraulic Lift Assy posted by Hal S. on February 22, 2001 at 18:46:14: Make SURE you remove the pto shaft first! You don't mention it in your post.

Re: Remove White 2-70 Hydraulic Lift Assy

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 22, 2001 at 20:30:17: IP Address: 209.163.7.81 In Reply to: Remove White 2-70 Hydraulic Lift Assy posted by Hal S. on February 22, 2001 at 18:46:14: There are two dowels that line the thing up. There are two long cap screws that are up on the hump between your legs when you are sitting in the seat. They are 9/16 heads and 3/8 bolt, the same size as the others but longer. If you have all the other bolts out around the perimeter of the casting, it should come up now. The gasket will likely be stuck as it is a rubberized gasket. I think the removal of the gear shift was the proper thing to do. You shouldn't have a problem getting the neutral safety switch back in place. Good Luck. Larry


Oliver 1600 top link

Posted by Ron S on February 21, 2001 at 22:11:57: IP Address: 63.14.32.104 I have a Oliver 1600 tractor missing it1s three point hitch top link. The 1600/1650s have a short top link. The tractor end is 3forked2. I know within 500 feet of where the top link is. Probable under a pile of junk iron. I found someone with a top link but he wants 1/2 the price of the tractor for it. My new thought is to get a hydraulic cylinder and do the job right for a lot less money. My new problem is finding a short cylinder. I want 2, 2.5 or 3 inch diameter and a contracted length of less than 14 inches. Do you have any ideas for me? Ron S.

Re: Oliver 1600 top link

Posted by Richard on February 24, 2001 at 07:09:06: IP Address: 63.166.22.5 In Reply to: Oliver 1600 top link posted by Ron S on February 21, 2001 at 22:11:57: Hello Ron, I removed the Oliver top link from my tractor and converted it over to a regular standard top link. The reason I did this was a post hole digger would not work, plus the adjustment I needed for someother implements could not be made the the factory to link. I mounted my bracket directly on top of the PTO housing and it has 2 different sets of pin locations. I can send you a picture if you would like. Also, there is a place that sells hydraulic top links on the web. It will take a little while to find it, but I can search and let you know when I do find it.

Re: Oliver 1600 top link

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 22, 2001 at 08:31:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.17 In Reply to: Oliver 1600 top link posted by Ron S on February 21, 2001 at 22:11:57: Ron. I don't have any ideas on this one. Larry

Re: Oliver 1600 top link

Posted by Larry Wolfe on February 22, 2001 at 12:34:53: IP Address: 64.244.12.35 In Reply to: Re: Oliver 1600 top link posted by Larry Harsin on February 22, 2001 at 08:31:34: Try the surplus center 800-488-3407 for odd hydrolic stuff. I should have a spare one of those top links if i could only find it.


APB for 1 Oliver Rim

Posted by Richard on February 20, 2001 at 19:36:15: IP Address: 63.166.22.38 "All points Bulletin" I'm looking for a front rim for my 1650. It's for a 6.5 x 16" tire. Mine still works but not for long. The Rust mites have eaten their way through the rim and want to know what rubber inner-tubes taste like. Let me know if one is available and how much it may sell for. Thanks, Richard

Re: APB for 1 Oliver Rim

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 21, 2001 at 20:02:26: IP Address: 209.163.7.19 In Reply to: APB for 1 Oliver Rim posted by Richard on February 20, 2001 at 19:36:15: Hi Richard. I don't have one of these. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. : 800-320-6224. Larry

Re: APB for 1 Oliver Rim

Posted by Larry Wolfe on February 21, 2001 at 13:31:34: IP Address: 64.244.12.190 In Reply to: APB for 1 Oliver Rim posted by Richard on February 20, 2001 at 19:36:15: If you can't find one for a tractor,look for a oliver or white corn planter.they are the same thing and the same color.


66RC

Posted by Butch Griffin on February 17, 2001 at 10:19:27: IP Address: 152.163.201.191 Hi Larrry, I have a 1950 66 Row Crop.It was given to me by a friend along with a Woods bushhog and a sickle mower. The Oliver was parked with a broken( and removed) PTO shaft and left in a field.(For 6 years!) I've gotten it home and in the barn and drained all the fluids. there was alot of water in the engine oil and the transmision had a huge iceball in it. I've replaced all the fluids and put a little diesel fuel in each cylinder to sit for about 3 weeks. I have no hand crank to try and turn it over so last week I charged the battery (6 volt)and attempted to turn it over. Nothing!! I connected the battery directly to the starter and still nothing. No click, no grind, not even a spark! I'm about to pull the starter down to check the armature contact but I thought I would get your opinion on the whole process first. The tractor itself is in pretty good shape. Good, almost new tires, all the fenders and sheet metal in remarkably good shape considering. I have the drawbar, 3 pt conversion parts and wheel weights. I intend to use this to rake hay, bushog, pull the hay wagon etc. I intend to try to get the engine started as the first order of business and then proceed to getting everything else in working order. I'm not a mechanic as much as a tinkerer and parts changer. This tractor is just help out around the place and would help take the load off of my and my friends existing, aging tractors. Besides, when I found out it was abandoned in the field I just could'nt leave it out there to totally deteriorate. I grew up on 48 acres in southeastern Virginia with my grandfather's super 55 and so I have a spot for Olivers. I can't afford to brake the bank trying to get this tractor running so any suggestions or advice for the process would be very helpful. I have a Jensales manual with my model and several others in it, very helpful. Sorry for the long windedness. Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks for your time!

Re: 66RC

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 17, 2001 at 19:03:14: IP Address: 209.163.7.52 In Reply to: 66RC posted by Butch Griffin on February 17, 2001 at 10:19:27: Butch. The first thing I would do is remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are not stuck. If some of the valves are stuck and you can't move them, you better remove the cylinder head. If you can get the valves to move, remove the starter from the engine and use a big heavy screwdriver and work with the fly wheel ring gear teeth to try to turn the engine. Don't use excessive force. Another method could be to jack one rear wheel up, then put the tractor in 6th. gear and then rock the wheel back and forth and see if that will loosen up the engine. While you have the starter out, take it to an electrical repair shop and get it checked out. Larry

Re: 66RC

Posted by Butch on February 18, 2001 at 11:30:48: IP Address: 152.163.201.207 In Reply to: Re: 66RC posted by Larry Harsin on February 17, 2001 at 19:03:14: Thanks Larry, I had thought of trying to turn the the flywheel once I had the starter off, but it did'nt occur to me to check the valves. Time to work on it is scarce but I'm certain to be back soon with more questions. Thanks again!!!


Liability case involving Oliver Tractor

Posted by Tom Misuraca on February 15, 2001 at 21:49:00: IP Address: 24.4.252.151 I am an attorney in Detroit. I am representing a farm implement dealer in Michigan's Thumb area. My client sold a replacement flywheel hub and bearing for a diesel Oliver 1850 (1969). The claim is that the hub was machined to an improper dimension, overheared, caused the bearing to seize up, rendering a clutch inoperative, causing the tracter to move and causing injury to a gentleman. I am defending the dealer. I need to find a person experienced with these tractors to review the case records, look at the parts and render an opinion on how this occurred, whether the parts were defective , etc. Can you reccomend anyone who has significant expertise with this vintage tractor who might serve as an expert witness. Thank you Tom Misuraca 1-800-875-1530 Attorney, Detroit Michigan

Re: Liability case involving Oliver Tractor

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 16, 2001 at 07:10:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.52 In Reply to: Liability case involving Oliver Tractor posted by Tom Misuraca on February 15, 2001 at 21:49:00: Mr. Misuraca. I havn't done much repair work on an 1850 in the last few years. I don't feel qualified to express an opinion in relation to your problem. Larry

Re: Liability case involving Oliver Tractor

Posted by Mark S on February 26, 2001 at 21:11:14: IP Address: 216.93.69.234 In Reply to: Liability case involving Oliver Tractor posted by Tom Misuraca on February 15, 2001 at 21:49:00: Get yourself an engineering consulting firm, a shop manual, and a failure analysis guy. I live in Michigan, and I'd help you, but I don't have a P.E. yet, so I am not going to go to court without it.


770 hydralics.

Posted by alfred on February 14, 2001 at 21:38:35: IP Address: 208.169.200.38 Larry, I have a, 1966, 770 Oliver. The hydraulics are totally unfamiliar. The bucket valves are fed from the bottom right of a tower under the steering wheel (hydraulic pump?). In order to operate the bucket the right-hand lever on top of the tower must be held down. This seems awkward at best and down right clumsy, really. Question #1; is there a better hookup for a remote valve? The bucket role leaks down, again awkward, making it difficult to carry very much,very far, in the bucket. Question #2; Is it something in the hook up which is causing the leak down? When running the loader, for about a half-an-hour, it will lift fairly well and then it will puke oil out of the top of the breather on top of the tower and then the loader will raise but the bucket will not roll back. Question #3; What is this all about? Any ideas about the problems or where I might go for information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Alfred M. Kelton

Re: 770 hydralics.

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 14, 2001 at 23:42:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.79 In Reply to: 770 hydralics. posted by alfred on February 14, 2001 at 21:38:35: Alfred. The internal control valves need to be taken apart and resealed. There's a small thermal relief valve that may be leaking on your right hand control valve. The way I would set this unit up to be used, after repairing the unit's control valves, would be to utilize the "power beyond" port. Then plumb that to an external control valve for your loader. I have the necessary parts to repair your unit. If you need these, email me. Larry


need 1250 diesel starter

Posted by Steve Barber on February 14, 2001 at 07:45:40: IP Address: 146.126.61.241 Larry, Do you know of a source for a 1250 diesel starter? My father's starter had a bad place in the armature and he sent it to a shop to be repaired. The shop (in another state) closed and his armature is gone. Help!

Re: need 1250 diesel starter

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 14, 2001 at 08:30:43: IP Address: 209.163.7.70 In Reply to: need 1250 diesel starter posted by Steve Barber on February 14, 2001 at 07:45:40: Steve. Call Central Tractor: 888-828-3276. They say they have parted out some of these tractors. They may have a starter. If that doesn't pan out, try Maibach Tractor: 216-939-4192. Larry


Larry H loader

Posted by Ryan on February 13, 2001 at 18:24:10: IP Address: 216.145.134.162 Larry, you mentioned in a post to me that you had a loader for sale, i asked about pics and specs and might have missed them when i had trouble getting to your site for a while. I see the one on your 880, is this the one? direct bolt on to my 1650? bucket size, lift heigh, lift weight and loader weight? thanks in advance for any info, you can e-mail me or re post here, which ever suits you. i am 200 miles away, not too far, but too far for recent weather and a look seee trip. Ryan

Re: Larry H loader

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 14, 2001 at 00:01:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.73 In Reply to: Larry H loader posted by Ryan on February 13, 2001 at 18:24:10: Ryan. I have a Westendorf WL30 that will fit onto your 1650. Right now it is mounted on a 1600. It is just like the loader on the 880 that is pictured on our website. Also it has the external 2 spool valve which is very dersirable on an Oliver tractor. Loader has not been welded on and it is straight. Bucket is above average and is straight. In a year or 2 it will have to have some of the floor replaced. I would like $1450 for this loader. Thank you for your inquiry. Larry

Re: Larry H loader

Posted by Ryan on February 15, 2001 at 11:30:14: IP Address: 216.145.134.167 In Reply to: Re: Larry H loader posted by Larry Harsin on February 14, 2001 at 00:01:31: this two spool valve, will it allow both the bucket and lift to work at the same time? I am interested, not sure when i can fit a trip that way in, i live near waterloo. Ryan

Re: Larry H loader

Posted by Larry Harsin on March 08, 2001 at 23:41:14: IP Address: 209.163.7.50 In Reply to: Re: Larry H loader posted by Ryan on February 15, 2001 at 11:30:14: Yes, the 2 spool valve will allow the complete loader and the hydraulic system to all work at the same time. I apologize for the delay in answering. I didn't see your last post. Larry


1650 connecting rod bolt

Posted by Carl on February 12, 2001 at 22:09:24: IP Address: 64.33.161.3 I have been told that we need new connecting rod bolts. I am doing an overhaul on a 1650 gas tractor. The old bolts look okay. Checked with the dealer. They want $12.40 per bolt, which comes to $148.80! The rod bolts are supposed to be a weak point on the Waukesha motor. Is it really necessary to replace them?

Re: 1650 connecting rod bolts

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 12, 2001 at 23:23:26: IP Address: 209.163.7.93 In Reply to: 1650 connecting rod bolts posted by Carl on February 12, 2001 at 22:09:24: I havn't found this to be true on the 1650 gas. I'd go ahead and use them. Use the correct torque and if they act o.k., go ahead and use them. Larry


More 1650

Posted by Richard on February 12, 2001 at 08:08:00: IP Address: 63.166.22.27 Hey Larry, I installed the remote loader valve this weekend. It's much better, smoother, and faster. Only thing is, I guess since it's Open Center, you can't use both functions at the same time. Where my lift arms pin to the draft control and spring, next to the axles, That main shaft used to be tight, now I can slide it 1/2" into or out of the case, and the seals started leaking. From what it looks like in the book is these shafts are held together by a clamp and a washer that sit in a slot in the shaft (kind of like it does on the clutch release bearing fork and shaft). Are the chances that the clamp simply came loose be the most common problem? I pull a heavy blade that puts a lot of side strain on the lift arms and it may have caused this to occur. The thrust washer are still on the shaft on each side, so that is bound to be what happened. Let me guess, the entire Hydraulic section/Trans cover needs to be removed to get to it right?

Re: More 1650

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 12, 2001 at 08:39:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.69 In Reply to: More 1650 posted by Richard on February 12, 2001 at 08:08:00: Richard. I don't think that hooking the valve into this system should have caused your problem. I would rather think that it is just normal wear and needs to be taken apart and resealed and repaired as needed. I think you can just remove the PTO to get at it. Larry

Re: More 1650

Posted by Richard on February 12, 2001 at 19:03:50: IP Address: 63.166.22.15 In Reply to: Re: More 1650 posted by Larry Harsin on February 12, 2001 at 08:39:31: Oh, I wasn't saying that my valve caused that. I was just telling you I installed the valve as per your advice and it works great. I'll look in the book about the PTO assembly and take a look at the lift arm shafts. By the way, know anyone with a used set of bull pinions and bull gears for both sides, reasonable? When I get the shop finished, I may pull down the top end and swap sides with the gears to get a fresh face. When I had the brake housing apart, I noticed the bull pinions and bull gears were pitted very badly.

Re: More 1650

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 12, 2001 at 23:25:38: IP Address: 209.163.7.93 In Reply to: Re: More 1650 posted by Richard on February 12, 2001 at 19:03:50: Richard. I have a set when you need them. Larry


1650 radiator

Posted by trent on February 10, 2001 at 18:39:40: IP Address: 207.190.64.247 I am in need of a new/used radiator for my 1650. Can you point me in the right direction for finding one. The core is good but the tank is shot and its been fixed twice and is leaking in the same spot again. My radiator guy told me it was not worth fixing again.

Re: 1650 radiator

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 10, 2001 at 23:46:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.33 In Reply to: 1650 radiator posted by trent on February 10, 2001 at 18:39:40: I have a reconditioned 1650 radiator. I want $185 plus shipping for it. Email your address to me and I can tell you what the shipping will be. This radiator will have 2 or 3 tubes that are blocked but it is a good radiator. Larry

Re: 1650 radiator

Posted by larry Wolfe on February 10, 2001 at 22:53:38: IP Address: 63.215.159.41 In Reply to: 1650 radiator posted by trent on February 10, 2001 at 18:39:40: If it looks like the tank is bulged,i would check for air bubbles coming out of the raditor.This is compression from the engine forceing a leak in the tank. A new or used raditor will suffer the same fate as the one you have. larry wolfe


1650 stuck in gear

Posted by Dean on February 10, 2001 at 08:21:25: IP Address: 208.155.28.220 Larry, My 1650G is stuck in 2nd. The tractor moves forward fine, but I can't get it into neutral or any other gear. The position of the Hydraul-Shift doesn't matter. When I push the clutch in, I can see by looking through the hole near my feet that the input shaft does indeed stop turning. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks, Dean

Re: 1650 stuck in gear

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 10, 2001 at 23:48:38: IP Address: 209.163.7.33 In Reply to: 1650 stuck in gear posted by Dean on February 10, 2001 at 08:21:25: You'll have to remove the gear shift lever and get in there with a long screwdriver or a long pointed pry bar and move the rails until all the slots line up. Usually if you look closely, one of the side rails will be either forward or backward and will just have to be moved into the neutral position. Good Luck. Larry

Re: 1650 stuck in gear Posted by larry@yahoo.com on February 10, 2001 at 22:46:06: IP Address: 63.215.159.41 In Reply to: 1650 stuck in gear posted by Dean on February 10, 2001 at 08:21:25: Do what it says in the stuck in reverse post below.


Remote Hyd. Valve

Posted by Richard on February 08, 2001 at 18:40:15: IP Address: 63.166.22.97 Larry, I'm going to add a remote valve for my loader on the 1650 as you suggested before. Now looking in the book, it says to use a Open Center valve for the remote valve, and discussed installing a plug in the oil passage of the tractor. It's all black and white and sounds very simple. The question I have is, everyone keeps calling this power beyond. Does this mean my loader valve needs to be setup for power beyond or just a normal Open Center valve? I'm going with the 2 spool joystick with float. The book states when this modification is made, that the valve must always be hooked up, so I will make my bracket mount to the tractor, that way if I ever remove the loader, I will just cap off the valve and keep it in the circuit. Re: Remote Hyd. Valve

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 08, 2001 at 19:53:00: IP Address: 209.163.7.12 In Reply to: Remote Hyd. Valve posted by Richard on February 08, 2001 at 18:40:15: Richard. An Open Center Valve is right. If you need help getting the oil out of the tractor and back in, I can send you a picture or diagram of how to do it. Everything you stated is correct. I'm sure you will be happier with your tractor and loader when you get it hooked up properly. Larry


Stuck in reverse

Posted by Mike Nassif on February 07, 2001 at 20:03:30: IP Address: 156.99.90.178 Help! My super 55 diesel is stuck in reverse. What do I do?

Re: Stuck in reverse

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 08, 2001 at 00:47:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.34 In Reply to: Stuck in reverse posted by Mike Nassif on February 07, 2001 at 20:03:30: Mike. Unbolt the shift lever and remove. Then take an aligning bar and try to get the rails lined up. Good Luck! Larry


2050 hard starting

Posted by Don on February 05, 2001 at 13:00:33: IP Address: 204.60.205.157 I have a Oliver 2050 Hercules diesel that is very hard to start when it's cool and cold out. Is there anthing that can be done to make it easier starting?

Re: 2050 hard starting

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 05, 2001 at 23:53:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.30 In Reply to: 2050 hard starting posted by Don on February 05, 2001 at 13:00:33: The first thing is to inspect the batteries and the starter to make sure they are up to specs. Cranking speed is the most important single aspect in good starting. Next, check the condition of the engine itself. How good is the compression? Are there any valves leaking? These are the most common problems with hard starting. Also, be sure the manifold preheater is working properly. Larry

Re: 2050 hard starting

Posted by Fred on February 28, 2001 at 13:32:39: IP Address: 63.28.213.192 In Reply to: Re: 2050 hard starting posted by Larry Harsin on February 05, 2001 at 23:53:31: My 550 oliver diesel was a Bear to start took me a while to figure it out but it ended up being the relay for the preheaters was not working! and dirty connections on the starter did not help any... i cleaned all the cables to the starter and put a new relay in(bought a relay from a bobcat dealer someone told me it was almost the same as the one that was in it) now she starts up very easy. good luck with your problem and I hope it is an easy fix:-)


Is there a trick?

Posted by Richard on February 03, 2001 at 22:34:30: IP Address: 63.166.22.22 Hello Larry, I installed a new Rubber Boot for my 1650's gear shifter but it still makes a mess. Oil still seeps out between the rubber and the two bolt metal flange. I'm about ready to pull it out and put some sealer or something in the groove. Any suggestions?

Re: Is there a trick? Posted by Larry Harsin on February 04, 2001 at 08:54:12: IP Address: 209.163.7.27 In Reply to: Is there a trick? posted by Richard on February 03, 2001 at 22:34:30: Hi Richard, You might need a little rubber strip that helps keep the oil from coming up into the boot. You'll have take the whole gear shift assembly out to understand what I'm talking about. It's a little rubber strip or "baffle" that fits over the gear shift lever. You'll have to take the gear shift out to install it. You will have to fabricate one or see if your AGCO dealer has one. Larry


1650 gas valve adjustment

Posted by Carl on February 02, 2001 at 10:54:56: IP Address: 199.150.177.187 Larry, I am finishing a 1650 gas tractor overhaul. Had the head done at a machine shop. I will need to adjust the valve clearance after installing the head. The I & T shop manual gives the clearance for adjusting the valves cold, but that's all it says. Do you need to warm the tractor up and then readjust the valves? Or isn't this necessary for an oliver? Also, I would assume that I have to turn the engine until its on compression stroke on the #1 cylinder to begin adjusting. Which valves would I adjust then? I assume then I would need to turn it 360 degrees and adjust the remaining valves? Again the I & T shop manual doesn't go into any detail on this. Any help would be appreciated.

Re: 1650 gas valve adjustment

Posted by Larry Harsin on February 02, 2001 at 20:06:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.23 In Reply to: 1650 gas valve adjustment posted by Carl on February 02, 2001 at 10:54:56: Carl. After you install the head, torque it per specifications as I & T specify. It's approx. 100 lbs. Work from the center out on the head bolts starting from approx. 50 lbs. torquing all bolts. Then step up 10 lbs. and go through the whole rotation again. Keep doing this until you reach the specified torque. At this time just do an eyeball check on the valve clearances. Set them to where they are not tight or not loose. Then start the engine and run it until it is warmed up. Then let it cool for at least an hour. At this time retorque the cylinder head, using the specified final torque that I & T calls for. Now you are ready to adjust your valves. Find Top Dead Center #1 first. To determine this, turn the engine until the exhaust valve on #6 cylinder closes and the intake on #6 just begins to open. You are now on TDC #1. Adjust valves on #1 cylinder. Then turn the engine one third of a turn. At this position you will be ready to set the valves on #5. Then another third of a turn and set #3 and so on through the firing order. Sometimes the 1650 valves will tend to have a little tappet noise. Don't be too concerned about it. The tappet setting on a 1650 is 15 intake, 24 exhaust. Larry


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