"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Feb., 2002 Archives


S-55 ENGINE SPECS

IP: 216.3.3.67 Posted on February 26, 2002 at 04:47:51 PM by MARK LOWERY I NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE ROD & MAINS TORQUE DOWN TO

Re(1): S-55 ENGINE SPECS

IP: 209.163.7.25 Posted on February 27, 2002 at 01:02:58 AM by Larry Harsin The rod bolts - 46 - 50 foot lbs. Main bearing cap screws - 88 - 92 foot lbs. The head bolts are 100 foot lbs. The intake valves are .010 and the exhausts are .017. That is cold setting. Larry

generator output

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on February 24, 2002 at 10:33:13 PM by polk crawler Is here a way to check generator ouput without removing the unit from my crawler? ammeter needle shows no movement when engine is running; battery is fully charged but I read needle should show 5-7 amps, much more if battery is down.

Re(1): generator output

IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 24, 2002 at 11:43:33 PM by Larry Harsin You may have a bad ammeter. Either try a different ammeter or remove the generator and have it checked at an electrical shop. Larry

Re(2): generator output

IP: 208.10.124.181 Posted on February 25, 2002 at 11:50:48 AM by Larry Wolfe I would test the gauge first.Both posts of the gauge should be hot(charged),take a small wire and quickly short the posts to a ground.The gauge should read discharge when one of them is touched,you should get some sparking.If you cann't get this to happen, the gauge or the wires is bad.

70 Standard

IP: 12.83.191.183 Posted on February 24, 2002 at 08:21:28 PM by Fritz I have a 70 std. that is missing the serial tag, is there a way of determining the year built?

Re(1): 70 Standard

IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 24, 2002 at 11:40:31 PM by Larry Harsin Look on the bottom of the transmission housing. There is usually a casting date under there. Or on the bottom of the cast iron frame around the engine. Larry

Row Crop 88, Loader

IP: 208.149.197.115 Posted on February 23, 2002 at 08:27:03 PM by Jim Wilson If I convert my "Trip Bucket" to hydraulics, will I have enough fluid or will I need an auxilary tank? Any 24" Cylinders for sale?

Re(1): Row Crop 88, Loader

IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on February 23, 2002 at 09:30:41 PM by Larry Harsin When using the loader on that model, an auxilary tank is very helpful. The oil will stay much cooler and the unit won't run so low on oil. I don't have any 24" cylinders. T.H.E. Co. shows 24" cylinders. 800-634-4885. Larry

Row Crop 88

IP: 207.65.178.32 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 08:38:22 PM by Brad I have an 88 gasoline engine. I would like to take this engine and put it into a 77. Is there any differences between the 88 and 77 engines. How much horsepower could you get through these two engines. I know they would both be good but having this engine in a 77 I could almost be unstoppable except maybe by one of those MM's or ####shuts.

Re(1): Row Crop 88

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on February 23, 2002 at 00:03:11 AM by Larry Harsin It is doable to put an 88 engine in a 77. I think the back bolt holes will line up and then where the front bolt holes come on the 88 block, you'll have to drill holes in the tractor frame to get them to line up. The 77's have 37 hp. and the 88 had 45 hp. when they were built, but most of them have been enlarged. Larry

1755 engine

IP: 12.21.155.104 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 07:24:58 PM by JERROLD I HAVE A 1755 DIESEL TRACTOR WITH A WALKASHAW ENGINE IN IT. I E-MAILED GREAT PLAINS CUMMINS ABOUT A CUMMINS ENGINE TO REPOWER THIS TRACTOR. THEY GAVE ME A PRICE OF 12500.00 WHICH I THINK IS HIGHT.I CAN NOT REBUILD THE WALKASHAW ENGINE AGAIN. I LIVE IN NORTHWEST FLA.THERE ARE NOT ANY CUMMINS DEALERS AROUND ME. DO YOU KNOW ANYWHERE I CAN GET A ENGINE TO GO IN THIS TRACTOR

Re(1): 1755 engine

IP: 207.65.178.11 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 07:41:18 PM by Brent If I were you I would try to find another 310. That engine should last a long time with out the turbo on it. Just keep the tractor original. If Oliver didn't go with Cummins you don't need to.

Re(2): 1755 engine

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 11:57:22 PM by Larry Harsin You might try running an ad for a used Cummins or a 310. Put an ad in Antique Power or the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. Magazine. I wouldn't spend that much on a 1755. If I couldn't fix the thing, I'd trade it off for another tractor. Larry

Re(1): 1755 engine

IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on February 26, 2002 at 07:05:39 AM by Shep I am in Virginia and have repowered several Olivers with cummins. I can help you find a Cummins engine if you would like, there are several dealers here in Virginia that can get you a new crate engine for about half what you were talking about. I have put the cummins engine in the tractors for people and drove them out of the shop for less than 12500.00. E-mail me off this post if you are interested and I will try to help you. And BTW the Cummins engines are really nice once you get them in there.

Super 88

IP: 216.234.124.220 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 03:19:15 PM by Dan Whatwould the H.P. and weight be on a super 88 row crop? Thanks

Re(1): Super 88

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 11:41:07 PM by Larry Harsin The H.P. is 55 to 56. The shipping weight on those tractors was 5000-5500 lbs. depending on how they were equipped. Larry

Oliver S55

IP: 64.228.47.159 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 07:30:49 AM by Terry Iam having trouble with S55.It will not run without full choke andhigh RPM. I have cleaned carb 3 times.I am going to check Pts,but was wondering about valves or leak in intake man. Thanks for your help also do you know of any dealer for parts in Ontario .

Re(1): Oliver S55

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 01:07:04 PM by Larry Harsin Have you checked the fuel flow out of your fuel strainer? Then check the points. Then remove the carb from the manifold and turn the engine over with the starter and listen for compression coming back into the intake manifold. If you hear compression coming back into the manifold, check your intake valve adjustments. I don't know of any dealers in Ontario, but if you call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, he'll ship them to you. Larry

Re(2): Oliver S55

IP: 208.10.125.244 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 05:20:57 PM by Larry from Maryland The s55 and all the gas olivers can have a manifold gasket problem,cause a bad design was used for a short time.A tractor will run rough at a higher speed and have lots of soot around and below the manifolds.A close inspection with a knife will show you can stick the blade between the head and manifold.Replaceing the copper looking gaskets will solve a lot of problems.

coupling chain lubrication

IP: 66.43.193.194 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 09:21:29 PM by gary is there a 'best' way to lubricate coupling chains on olivers--i have just installed new sprockets and chain on my 1855 and woild like to make it last! i appreciate your web site-thanks!

Re(1): coupling chain lubrication

IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 11:45:06 PM by Larry Harsin There's a special spray lube for chains that I think would work best. You can get it at a machinery dealer or a farm supply store. Just occasionally give it a little lubrication. Glad you enjoy our website. Larry

Decals

IP: 206.23.246.109 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 11:28:48 AM by Josh Jacobs On the last few series that Oliver made, the 50 and 55 series, they had some slick little stickers on the back of the fenders. Some saying Oliver The Time Maker, For Men Who Grow. Where can you find these stickers. I want them all. Did they have a certain sticker for a specific models are were they just random?

Re(1): Decals

IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 11:41:50 PM by Larry Harsin Contact Jim Vickroy at 614-654-3596, he has them. Larry

Char-lynn power steering unit

Hi Larry, I was reading through some old posts and saw that you had a Char Lynn power steering unit for sale back in August. I have a 1959 550 industrial that has an incomplete unit on it now. I have been working on rebuilding it as they are hard to come by. But, I am also interested in a complete unit, or some parts if you have a broken up unit. I need the dog bones (input and output shafts) and possibly the gearotor section. The part number is S-105-D. Thank you.

Re(1): Char-lynn power steering unit

IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 11:35:24 PM by Larry Harsin The Char-lynn that I have is made to work on a 770 or an 880. It is not the same as what you need. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to help you or contact Force America at 515-573-8129. (I believe that area code has been changed to 641 but not sure.) Good Luck! Larry

1800 diesel series A

IP: 64.33.166.184 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 08:54:28 PM by Matt How much is that tractor worth? Everything works. Needs a overhaul. Tin is straight.

Re(1): 1800 diesel series A

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 11:20:29 PM by Larry Harsin I would guess it's worth about $1000. When you get it overhauled, you could easily have $5000 in it and that is more than you'll get out of it. Larry

Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 207.65.178.68 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 06:23:50 PM by Joe Zookle I have a Minneapolis Moline G750. The small diesel is great but I need some more power. Could you use a turbo off a 310 and put it on the 283. Also if that dosen't work has anyone ever tried putting in a turbocharged 354 Perkins. This Moline will make a nice tractor if I could get just a few more horses. Could you maybe just turn up the fuel or would that be bad like on the 310. Thanks for your help

Re(1): Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 207.65.178.68 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 06:28:16 PM by Chas Perks I would suggest going with a Perkins engine. Some might suggest a Cummins. Cummnis are junk. Never have one in a tractor. If it's in a Dodge you don't need it

Re(1): Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 11:18:09 PM by Larry Harsin The G750 compares to a 1655. You are going to be short on space and size of radiator will be too small. You need to have your tractor tested on a dynomometer to see what horse power it is putting out, and make the necessary adjustments. It should be capable of producing 80 horse. I would not reccommend going above that in that size tractor. If you need more than this, I suggest you get a larger tractor. Larry

Re(2): Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 63.114.86.245 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 05:33:57 PM by Hammer cummins is a superior deisel engine no matter what it is in.some people are just ignorant........

Re(2): Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 10:17:37 AM by Shep If you have ever had a cummins apart and looked at how it is made compared to other diesels it would change your opinion. The Cummins engines are built heavier and simpler than any other diesel on the market today. The shear horsepower and tork in a tractor powered with a Cummmins engine will blow your mind. You have to remember in a pickup truck there are a lot more factors involved in pulling a truck than just the engine, such as gearing, transmission type, tire size, computer settings, etc. With tractors there are less variables and the engine matters more. You should run a Cummins powered tractor before you have an opinion about it.

Re(1): Minneapolis Moline G750

IP: 198.146.112.216 Posted on February 22, 2002 at 10:46:08 AM by Joe No one has answered my question yet. Can you put a turbo on the small 283 diesel. I don't care if cummins is good or not. If it ain't Oliver I don't want it.

1850oilpump

IP: 216.172.176.201 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 06:55:17 AM by koop i have an 1850 that needs an oil pump the dealer can get a new one but the price is to high for me. is there a place to get rebuilt or parts to rebuild one i am thankful for any help

Re(1): 1850oilpump

IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 12:55:46 AM by Shep My local Agco dealer rebuilt an oil pump for me out of a 310 Waukesha a few years ago, dont think it cost but $50 or so for a rebuild. Might check around and see if a machine shop or a tractor shop in you area would rebuild it for you.

Re(2): 1850oilpump

IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 21, 2002 at 07:37:07 AM by Larry Harsin I have a used oil pump. I would have to do some work on it. Email me if you are interested. Larry

1950-T engine swap

IP: 207.65.178.50 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 05:36:46 PM by Brad Keele I am wanting to know what size engine the 2050's and the 2150's had in them. Is the 2150 turbocharged or not. Also has anyone tried stuffing one of these into a 1950-T. Does anybody pull with this engine, and how does it do? It would be a great engine for pulling. Where could you find an oversized camshaft for such an engine. We also have a 3208 available for the tractor if it wouldn't tear up the rearend.

Re(1): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 65.206.79.150 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 09:36:40 PM by M kuhns Your 1950 rear should be capable of handling the 3208 even with a turbo up to about 350 maybe 500Hp if your going to use it for pulling. The answer to your question what engine was in the 2150 - it is a Hercules 478 cubic inch engine which is fairly expensive to repair. My cousin wants to put a tractor together with the 3208 and a 1950 rear also, so the 3208 is not too extreme of an idea. THe Cat engine is cheap to repair and has no sleeves to worry about. AN overhaul kit is around $800 including pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets

Re(2): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 206.23.246.48 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 10:48:54 AM by Brad Has anyone tried putting one of the hercules engines out of a 2150 or 2050 into a 1950-T. I feel that this engine could even be better than the 3208 Catepillar. Though I think they would both be stomping Deere's in the ground. Please tell if anyone has actually done either engine and how hard it was with any complications.

Re(3): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 208.10.124.45 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 11:44:08 AM by Larry Wolfe Those herk engines are much wider and longer than the oridginal ones,and would need much larger frames.

Re(4): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 207.65.178.68 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 06:04:41 PM by Anonymous How would you make a 3208 or 3150 fit in the T. Different frame, radiator, tell me everything I would need to make it work. Tell me about the 2050 engine too. what i would need to do. Also what kind of hp would a 1755 rear handle. Thanks

Re(5): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 207.65.178.68 Posted on February 20, 2002 at 06:07:29 PM by Zach That last post was me:). I would appreciate anyone's help.

1950-T engine swap

IP: 207.65.178.50 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 05:33:21 PM by Brad Keele I am wanting to know what size engine the 2050's and the 2150's had in them. Is the 2150 turbocharged or not. Also has anyone tried stuffing one of these into a 1950-T. Does anybody pull with this engine, and how does it do? It would be a great engine for pulling. Where could you find an oversized camshaft for such an engine.

Re(1): 1950-T engine swap

IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 07:25:51 PM by Larry Harsin The 2150 engine is a Hercules 478 cubic inch. It is the same as the 2-135 White. The 2150 was turboed, the 2050 wasn't. I don't know where to get and oversized camshaft for them. Refer to the earlier posts on this problem. Larry

High performance 1950T

IP: 207.65.178.35 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 07:48:27 PM by zach Keele Hello. I'm looking to get 200 hp out of my 310 in my 1950T. I was wondering where I could get a larger camshaft and some suggestions on other things that would help me get to that mark and beyond. Thanks Zach Keele

Re(1): High performance 1950T

IP: 64.12.107.31 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 08:26:35 PM by Don I don't recommend a 310 should go that high, unless you do something to make the oil cap. much larger. Did you ever think about going with a Cummins rebuild? you can get a good size engine in your ollie without too much work. Don

Re(2): High performance 1950T

IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 08:42:12 PM by Larry Harsin I agree wholeheartedly with Don. If you try to get that much horsepower out of a 310 engine, it isn't going to last. Larry

Re(1): High performance 1950T

IP: 216.76.116.118 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 11:00:38 AM by Shep I agree with Don and Larry, I have had trouble keeping 310 engines togeather at 100HP, I know you will bust it at 200Hp. If you are going to use the tractor in the field and want that kind of power put a 5.9L Turbo Cummins in her and wind it up. I have two Ollies with cummins in them and they make a nice tractor. If you use you head running it and dont over weight the tractor it can handle 200HP without destroying the rear end and transmission. If you are tractor pulling with it and want the power, I dont think your 310 Waukesha will handle it. I would stand far away from it going down the track............ E-mail me with questions, I have built up 310s and 354s and have put Cummins in them instead.

Re(1): High performance 1950T

IP: 65.206.79.176 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 04:58:10 PM by m kuhns We have a 1750 with a the 1950T engine in it. We use it on our farm for mostly hauling silage wagons on are hills. We don't use it at a constant 130 HP all the time and it seems to be lasting quite well even though the block was repaired behind the injection pump. A rod had flew out at one time but we reused the block by welding in another piece out of a different block. Anyway, If you want to use it for pulling 200hp should be fairly easy to get just using stock parts with a little extra boost and more fuel. We occasionally blow a head gasket every now and again. If you build a 310 either use a copper head gasket or try to keep liner protrusion to the high end of specifications. We also have an Oliver Super 88 with a 310 in it running about 140 HP WITHOUT A TURBO, so an extra sixty HP with a turbo should be simple. Of course the 88 is decompressed significantly and has a Crane cam in it. We run around 3,000 RPM's going down the track. We also replace all the bearings after about five years of pulling. (about 100 hooks)If I were you I would use a turbo off of a 5.9 Cummins with the smaller exhaust housing on it. THis should give you around 30lbs boost without the wastegate. THis turbo works well with our 354 perkins running 190HP out of it with about 30 lbs of boost and doesn't smoke at all under full load. As far as the drivetrain, the hydrapower or over/under will handle up to about 250HP or a little more by increasing the pump pressure. THe 1950 rear is the same as the 1850. Our experience is that it will handle up to about 150HP max without destroying it. We once ran our 1850 at about 170Hp weighted up to about 15,000lbs pulling a 28 foot disc and took out the ring and pinion at the end of the season. An 1850 rear will handle about 350 hp when pulling only. If you want to use it for farming at a constant 200 Hp, forget about it. Buy an Oliver 2255 and turn up the pump. We are running about 225 - 240HP out of ours constantly and we have no problems. If you put in a 5.9 cummins, try to get an electronic one. With the right diagrams they are easy to wire up. I want to do this sometime I find a 1750 or 1950 without an engine in it. I hope I'm not overwhelming you with info. A lot of this comes from my stepfather's 20+ years pulling Olivers from 88s to our 2155 Oliver. Feel free to e-mail me at rnlklingler@evenlink.net

Re(3): High performance 1950T

IP: 207.65.178.29 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 06:32:43 PM by Zach I don't aim to keep it together long. I'm just tired of this jerk saying his Deere will beat my T. So please tell me where to get a full-loping race cam. Thanks Zach

Re(4): High performance 1950T

IP: 65.206.79.150 Posted on February 19, 2002 at 09:53:23 PM by m kuhns Crane Cams can get you one. That is the one we have in our 88 diesel that is decompressed running about 140Hp without a turbo. You could also just advance your stock cam about 2 degrees after decompressing the engine. THere is also a gingrich cam grind at Feasers (717) 236-9387 Machine shop in Harrisburg, PA. THis normally gives a little extra torque. With a stock cam advanced, copper head gasket,pistons shaved (lower compression to about 12:1)-(takes ETHER to keep the engine going until it warms up a little)lots of fuel, and about 30 - 40lbs boost with a 310 waukesha 250hp I feel would not be out of the question. Keep the 310 if you only want to run it for pulling. If you have any other questions E-MAIL me at rnlklingler@evenlink.net

1650 cab

IP: 63.114.86.228 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 02:55:05 PM by Shane Larry, i have located a cab off a 1650,will it fit on my 1550? Thanks,Shane

Re(1): 1650 cab

IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 08:34:38 PM by Larry Harsin Yes, I think it will. You may have to do a little adjusting, but it will fit. Larry

66 rowcrop

IP: 205.188.208.107 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 10:53:54 AM by Butch Griffin Larry, I wrote to you some time ago about a 66 rowcrop I have finally rebuilt,everything is very good except the hydraulics. I appear to be losing fluid into the transmission. Any suggestions?

Re(1): 66 rowcrop

IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 01:03:41 PM by Larry Harsin You'll need new bearings and seals for the pump. If you can't find them, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry

880

IP: 65.165.90.121 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 09:54:10 PM by Larry does the 880 have a freeze plug that can be removed to install a water heater? need to keep the engine warm so it will start or what do you suggest? and what is Char Lynn power steering ? can it be used on an 880? Thanks in advanced, Larry

Re(1): 880

IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 07:12:47 AM by Larry Harsin No the 880 does not have a freeze plug for a water heater. I have a water heater that will work on an 880. If you are interested, email me at cobalt@rconnect.com. Char Lynn power steering is an after market power steering to put on a tractor with manual steering. Yes, it will work well on an 880. Larry

need help!!!!

IP: 64.12.102.159 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 06:55:16 PM by Nick I have found an oliver model 25 combine but don't know much about it. I don't have a clue how to run it. It has a 6 cylinder continental engine. What years did they make these combines? I would apprietiate any information on this combine. THANKS

Re(1): need help!!!!

IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 07:08:23 AM by Larry Harsin This combine was built in Battle Creek MI from about 1957 til about 1962. The 25 combine was also built for Ford. You can get an Operator's Manual and Parts Book from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net That will tell you how to operate it and what it will do. Larry

Re(2): need help!!!!

IP: 205.188.192.152 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 04:24:15 PM by Nick Thanks for the help Larry.

1600- not starting

IP: 205.188.197.157 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 01:59:14 PM by Don Larry- my 1600 gas is dead. I just installed the starter after being rebuilt, and i put the generator and regulator back on after having them checked out. Started after a few tries, but the amp light was on. I got off to check out the generator, didnt find anything, and it was off when i got back on. I took it for a drive,then parked it, and now a few hours later there is nothing. There isn't anything except a few small blue sparks while taking off and putting on the battery cables. What do you think?

Re(1): 1600- not starting

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 06:46:07 PM by Larry Harsin The first thing I would do is have the battery checked. Then check the battery cables. Larry

Re(2): 1600- not starting

IP: 152.163.195.198 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 09:40:55 AM by Don Got it started again- Cleaned off the connections, nothing changed, the battery was only a year old but i put the charger on it anyway, and apparantly the battery got drained quitew a bit when I started it the first time. Today I'm getting my 1755 back from the shop. The shifter fork was broke so they put a used one in, and as for the brakes, the o-rings ended up being bad. The bill comes to just a little under 1400, which i guess is fairly reasonable. I'm thinking about letting them take my 1600 soon to rebuild the engine with their winter work discount. thanks, Don

Re(3): 1600- not starting

IP: 208.10.125.50 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 05:28:59 PM by Larry Wolfe If you are getting a spark when you attach the battery cables then something is shorted somewhere.Remove wires one at a time to find it.Start with the hot wire to the regulator.

Re(4): 1600- not starting

IP: 64.12.107.31 Posted on February 18, 2002 at 08:30:21 PM by Don It's fine now. I had the battery disconnected while charging, and when I put the cables back on again there were no sparks. I still don't know why it did what it did, but it feels better now. Don

LOADER

IP: 207.218.210.230 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 08:08:25 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY ON MY 1966 - 1650 OLIVER I HAVE A 1610 OLIVER LOADER ON WHEN I WORK THE FRONT END LOADER I HAVE TO GIVE IT THE JUICE TO GET IT MOVING AT A FAIRLY DECENT SPEED IS THIS NORMAL AND IF ANYTHING WHAT COULD I DO O SPEED IT UP I HAVE GOT THE THIN HYDROLIC HOSES ON IT , I WAS TOLD THAT WOULD HELP BUT WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS AN AJUSTMENT I COULD MAKE OR WOULD I NEED TO HOOK UP A SEPERATE PUMP FOR IT THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP, LARRY

Re(1): LOADER

IP: 209.163.7.56 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 10:46:25 PM by Larry Harsin I would say you'll probably have to go with a separate pump off the PTO to speed up the operation. Larry

Re(2): LOADER

IP: 207.218.213.157 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 09:27:54 AM by KIM HELLO LARRY THAT IS WHAT I SUSPECTED DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS OF WHAT TYPE OF SET UP AND PUMPS ARE AVAILABLE AND WHERE TO PURCHASE SOMETHING LIKE THIS THANK YOU ,KIM

Re(3): LOADER

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 06:41:10 PM by Larry Harsin Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He will know where to get a pump and what to get. They sell Westendforf and Miller and other brands of loaders. Larry

Re(4): LOADER

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on February 17, 2002 at 06:43:22 PM by Larry Harsin Oops! I forgot to put the phone number on there! Tom at 800-320-6224 Larry

Oliver Super 225 Power Unit

IP: 204.251.89.251 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 11:02:38 PM by m kuhns I was wondering if anyone knew what engine was in a Oliver Super 225 Power Unit. THe engine has oliver printed on the intake manifold. THe engine is larger than a 310 waukesha and is a 6cyl diesel. Is it a Waukesha or what is it? I have a chance to buy one for $700. Is this unit rare or not? The serial# is 91-615-009 and the spec#12-0012. Any info would be appreciated

Re(1): Oliver Super 225 Power Unit

IP: 209.163.7.7 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 07:03:37 AM by Larry Harsin The S225 power unit was assembled at South Bend. A Hercules engine was used. It was first offered in 1957 and available until 1960. During 1957 and 1958 only 19 units were sold. It looks to us like you have a nice find. It is definitely worth $700 if it will run. I got a 199 Diesel recently. It is in nice shape, for nearly the same price. Do you know how yours was used? Ours was a standby generator and used one year on an irrigation unit. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Super 225 Power Unit

IP: 204.251.89.88 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 12:07:20 AM by m kuhns It has an irrigation pumpon the back of it. How many of the S225 were made total and what hercules engine was used. What was bore and stroke and Hp. Do you know what year this one is? serial# 91-615-009 spec# 12-0012 I would like to know by Monday Morning which is my last chance to buy it.

Re(3): Oliver Super 225 Power Unit

IP: 209.163.7.56 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 10:42:27 PM by Larry Harsin That is all the info I have on that Power Unit. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at the Oliver Museum in Charles City IA hpocacc@fiai.net She will probably be able to answer this for you. Larry

s55

IP: 152.163.213.79 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 06:42:42 PM by Ardy Hi Larry. Im allmost ready to put my pto clutch back together and i have a few questions. What would work to lubricate the new O ring seals? What kind of sealing compound should i use on the metel part lip oil seal? the seals i recieved are coated with something green,should i remove this coating? Would you suggest using some sort of sealent between bearing retainer and center housing (form a gasket)? The book also says to stake the spider retaining nut im not sure what this means, the one i removed was not staked. last but not least would 80-90w gear oil surfice in the trans & rear end? Any advice would be of great help. Thanks Ardy.

Re(1): s55

IP: 209.163.7.7 Posted on February 16, 2002 at 07:14:24 AM by Larry Harsin Use ordinary engine oil or Vaseline to lubricate the O ring seals. Do not remove the green coating on the seals, that is the sealing compound. Use number 3 Permatex or it's equivalent between bearing retainer and center housing. To stake the spider retaining nut, take a hammer and a punch and punch the edge of the nut in the notch in the shaft so it will hold that nut from coming off. In the trans & rear, 80-90 is fine, or you can use Case-IH Hy-Tran or JD Hy-Gard. Larry

550 Cylinder Specs

IP: 12.89.170.149 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 06:02:37 AM by Mike Have a 1959 Oliver 550 gas and am in the process of rebuilding the engine due to excessive oil burning. There is great compression across the board. I had the top end completely rebuilt but it still burns a lot. I now have the entire engine torn apart. I'd like to spare the expense of engine sleeves and just hone the cylinders and replace the rings if possible. Thus am wondering what is the allowable specification range of the cylinder bore? I have 3-1/2" pistons and have measured the bores from 3.478" - 3.480" diameter. Thank you.

Re(1): 550 Cylinder Specs

IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 01:05:59 PM by Larry Harsin It doesn't sound like you have much wear in the sleeves. Check the top ring groove on the top of the piston. Take a new piston ring or take the second or third piston ring the same size and install that into the groove and then take a feeler guage and measure the clearance between the ring and the edge of the groove. If there is more than .004 clearance, this can cause oil consumption. To remedy this wear in the top groove, you will have to take these pistons to a machine shop and have that top groove recut and put in an over sized ring. Also if you are going to try to reuse your old pistons, have the machinist check the wrist pins for wear and if they are out of tolerance, have your machinist install over sized wrist pins. When you start totalling up your costs for all this work on your pistons, you might find it cheaper to install new sleeves and pistons. You'll have to compare. Larry

safety switch

IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on February 13, 2002 at 04:52:04 PM by Greg S The "Safety Switch" on my 1961 550 HC is totally rotten. It appears to be some time of limit switch that prevents the tractor from starting unless the clutch is depressed. AGCO wants $43 for this part. They changed the design a bit, but the one I removed is a 1/2" barrel pushbutton. Am I correct on the function of this? Is this a normally open or normally closed switch? Any suggestion on where I can get a replacement?

Re(1): safety switch

IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on February 13, 2002 at 07:32:15 PM by Larry Harsin Take your switch with you and go to an electrical shop or an electrical supply store; maybe even an electrician. You are correct in the function. The switch is open and when you press down on it, it closes. It's just a microswitch. But do take your old one with you. Larry

Re(1): safety switch

IP: 12.89.95.214 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 10:27:32 AM by Mike Replaced the safety switch on my 550 with a common microswitch just as Larry suggested. I had it in a box of old do-dads, but any normally open microswitch will work. Just make sure that the barrel has enough range of adjustment to get it right when triggered by the actuator rod. If you strike out at Radio Shack or electrical supply house, try Granger or MSC. They'll have it.

Oliver 88, RC or Super ?

IP: 208.149.197.110 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 08:37:02 PM by Jim Wilson The tag on my dash says: ROW CROP "88" S/N: 140426088F, The 088F is stamped a little off-set. The guy I got it from said it's a SUPER 88, but wouldn't the tag say that as well? What year and make do I have?? Whats the O88F stand for since it's stamped a little diff.? Any help or info will be greatly appreceated...

Re(1): Oliver 88, RC or Super ?

IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 10:26:30 PM by Larry Harsin Our book shows this to be a 1952 88RC; not a Super. The 088F might indicate some optional equipment that was added or some optional transmission gearing or something like that. Larry

timing

IP: 207.218.200.17 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 05:25:06 PM by KIM HELLO I HAVE A 1966 - 1650 OLIVER I HAVE TO GIVE IT A SHOT OF ETHER EVERYTIME TO START THIS RASCAL IN THE MORNING ONCE IT STARTS AND GETS UP TO RUNNING TEMP IT SEEMS OK THE COMPRESSION IS OK THE PUMP I AM NOT TO SURE OF I HAD A VALVE JOB DONE ON IT AND NEED TO ADJUST THE VALVES ALSO COULD YOU TELL ME TO GO ABOUT THIS TO THANK YOU, KIM

Re(1): timing

IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on February 13, 2002 at 07:13:37 AM by Larry Harsin An Operator's Manual would tell you how to do that. I would set those valves at 10 on the intakes and 20 on the exhausts. If you need an Operator's Manual, contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. Your's is the earlier style engine with energy cells. She will have to know this. You may even want to get a Shop Manual for this tractor. Larry

Re(2): timing

IP: 207.218.212.61 Posted on February 13, 2002 at 11:23:31 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY I HAVE THE JENSALES MANUAL I DONT SEE ANYTHING ABOUT SETTING THE VALVES SHOULD I GET A DIFFERENT MANUAL? CAN I TEST THE COMPRESSION ON THE ENERGY CELL SIDE I WAS TOLD THE COMPRESSION CHECKED OUT BY A MECHANIC BUT MAYBE IT WASNT WHO CAN I GET A COMPRESSION TESTER FROM AND ADAPTER AND I WILL CHECK IT MYSELF I SURE HATE TO PULL ALL FUEL LINE OFF ECT.

Re(3): timing

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on February 14, 2002 at 08:52:31 PM by Larry Harsin I thought a regular Operator's Manual would tell you how to do this. Is your Jensales Manual an I&T Manual? If it is and doesn't tell you what you need to know, I would get a regular Oliver Operator's Manual. I'm not too concerned about the compression. If a mechanic said it was o.k. it probably is. The "not starting" could be various things. The 1st thing I would check would be the condition of the battery cables and batteries, make sure the batteries are the size specified in the Oper. Manual, then have the starter checked for proper condition. These are very important for a diesel engine to start properly. I'd hate for you to tear into the engine if all that was wrong was a battery cable or a battery or something. Larry

Re(4): timing

IP: 208.10.124.249 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 11:27:54 AM by Larry from Maryland Kim needs a service manuel not an operators manuel.

Re(4): timing

IP: 207.218.212.159 Posted on February 14, 2002 at 11:26:40 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME THE BATTERY AND CABLES ARE ALL NEW. THIS IS A HEAVY DUTY TRACTOR BATTERY.I FEEL IT HAS PLENTY OF POWER. I HAVE READ SEVERAL OF YOUR ARCHIVES AND SEE THAT THIS IS A COMMEN PROBLEM WITH HAVING TO START THESE 1650 WITH ETHER. I HAVE ADJUSTED THE VALVES BY GETTING TDC AND TURN CRANK ONE THIRD ECT. THEY SEEM TO BE IN GREAT SHAPE.ONE ARTICLE I WAS READING SAID THEY HAD SHOT SO MUCH ETHER INTO THE TRACTOR IT BLEW OUT THE TOP RINGS?OIL PRESSURE ON THIS GAL IS 40 PSI I DONT THINK THATS THE CASE HOWEVER WHEN I START HER I HAVE TO SHOOT ETHER IN AND SHE SEEMS TO RUN ON 2 OR 3 CYLINDERS AND TRIES TO DIE , AT THAT TIME I WILL SHOOT SOME MORE ETHER IN, AND THE ENGINE SPEED WILL PICK UP AND THEN SHE STARTS TO SMOOTH OUT AND SHE SOUNDS LIKE SHE IS RUNNING ON 4 TO 5 CYLINDERS PUFFING ALOT OF SMOKE THE HOLE TIME. ONCE SHE GETS TO WARMING UP SHE WILL SMOOTH OUT EXCEPT FOR AN OCCASIONAL POP HERE AND THERE BUT NOT TO BAD AND SOUND LIKE SHE S HITTING ON ALL SIX CYLINDERS THEN. WHEN I HAD THE HEAD OFF FOR THE VALVE JOB THE SLEEVES LOOKED FINE, NO VERTICLE LINES FROM BROKEN RINGS THAT I COULD SEE. THE ENGINE DID OVERHEAT AND THE HEAD GASKET WAS BAD. SO I WENT HEAD AND HAD A VALVE JOB DONE ,RADIATOR RECORED AND INJECTORS CLEAN TESTED ECT. I READ ABOUT ADJUSTING THE INJECTER PUMP TORQUE SCREW BUT I WANTED YOUR OPINION FIRST . THANK YOU VERY MUCH, KIM

Re(5): timing

IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 06:00:47 AM by Larry Harsin I wouldn't touch that torque screw. What you have told us now helps a lot in diagnosing the problem. If the injector pump has not been removed from the tractor and checked out, that is what I would do. If you do not have a pump repair shop in your area, send it to me and I can have it done here. Larry

Re(6): timing

IP: 207.218.214.60 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 08:22:56 AM by KIM GOOD MORNING LARRY I LIVE IN WALLER TEXAS WHICH IS CLOSE TO HOUSTON. I WILL LOOK AROUND AND CHECK TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS THE KNOWLEDGE TO WORK ON THESE PUMPS. MEANWHILE COULD YOU SEND ME INFO ON WHERE TO SEND THIS PUMP TO HAVE YOU LOOK AT IT AND WHAT PRICE IT SHOULD RUN AROUND THANK YOU VERY MUCH, KIM

Re(7): timing

IP: 208.10.124.249 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 11:37:38 AM by Larry from Maryland My 1650 acts much like yours when it is cold about 25 or so.I have been useing either for in it for 30 years.When the govenor ring in the injector pump broke I had the whole pump rebuilt.It acted the same after as it did before.When its 50 outside I use either too but it runs smooth right away.Rebuilding the pump may make no differance at all.

Re(8): timing

IP: 207.218.202.30 Posted on February 15, 2002 at 02:20:01 PM by KIM hello larry thanks for the info I AM GOING TO ADJUST THE PUMP TIMING TODAY. I WILL SEE IF THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE DOWN HERE IN TEXAS IT DOESNT GET THAT COLD I ALSO WILL PULL SOME FUEL PRESSURE TEST AND WE WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS, BEFORE I PULL THE PUMP I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT IS THE PROBLEM!! THANKS BUDDY, KIM

Overhaul Kit

IP: 205.188.192.152 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 11:49:00 AM by Brandon Howell Hey Larry. How have you been? I have been pretty good and busy with school and work. I have a question for you. What usually comes in a complete overhaul kit? I know new Pistons,Liners,and gaskets, but what is comes in one? I am ready to overhaul my 77 this spring and I may need you to put me an overhaul kit together. Also i have a plow master No. 100 plow that needs some new parts (mold boards landside, new springs and other miscellaneous parts) Who sells parts and or a parts book for implements? Also it has a hitch that has the release trip on it. Could i build a new hitch for that plow or buy one that didn't have the trip release system on it? Thanks You Very Much. Brandon Lee Howell Charleston WV

Re(1): Overhaul Kit

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 07:10:43 PM by Larry Harsin Besides the 3 things you listed, bearings, probably wrist-pin bushings. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. for parts for your plow. 800-320-6224. For a manual for your plow, contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. Are you asking if your hitch needs to be replaced? Talk to Tom at O'Brien about that too. When you figure out what you need for the overhaul kit, email me. Larry

maintenance manuals

IP: 65.90.98.9 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 04:27:14 AM by Troy Olson Where could I find a Chilton's type maintenance manual for a 77 Series?

Re(1): maintenance manuals

IP: 209.163.7.54 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 06:21:46 AM by Larry Harsin Contact Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry

intake gasket

IP: 64.210.248.135 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 04:25:33 AM by Troy Olson Would it be worth our time to change intake gaskets on a 77 Series from a shadetree machanics view point or is this something that should be done by an Oliver veteran?

Re(1): intake gasket

IP: 209.163.7.54 Posted on February 12, 2002 at 06:20:05 AM by Larry Harsin I think you could do it. When you get the manifold off, see if all the ports are level. It may need to be taken to a machine shop and machined so that it sets up straight against the cylinder head so that the gaskets make contact evenly. Larry

1948 Oliver 88 Row crop

IP: 152.163.207.69 Posted on February 11, 2002 at 08:26:05 PM by Sylvan Andersen Do you know where I could get a hydraulic pump for a hydo-electric system.How much psi should a new pump put out. Serial # 122138(tractor serial #)

Re(1): 1948 Oliver 88 Row crop

IP: 209.163.7.27 Posted on February 11, 2002 at 09:32:55 PM by Larry Harsin I have one that is all rebuilt. I am asking $400 plus shipping. On your hydraulic system I would not exceed 1000 psi. If you are interested, email us. Larry

oliver 1370 hp

IP: 216.209.239.19 Posted on February 10, 2002 at 11:10:05 PM by Alexandre Bilodeau Greetings, I am interesed in buying an Oliver 1370 4wd from a widowed wife. Now I would like to know exacly how much hp this thing can produce at the pto since in order to match the right size of implements on it. All I know is that it has a mean diesel grunt! thanks

Re(1): oliver 1370 hp

IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on February 11, 2002 at 06:14:12 AM by Larry Harsin This was built by Fiat and has 59 hp. They were built in row crop, utility or 4 WD configurations. Larry

missing check ball at oil filter

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on February 9, 2002 at 11:46:43 PM by polk crawler Discovered the check ball behind the spring in the oil filter mount is gone. What is its purpose and will filter work without it? (OC3 running and moving!

Re(1): missing check ball at oil filter

IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on February 10, 2002 at 07:52:15 AM by Larry Harsin I am not an expert with the OC3 crawler engine. You should call Landis Zimmerman. 717-738-2573. I'm glad to hear that you have it up and running! Larry

550 oliver

IP: 205.231.30.27 Posted on February 9, 2002 at 08:40:55 AM by david i would like to find out the year of my 550. Model #55-2103,Ser #149-185-019.Or if it is a 55 in disguise.I want to restore to best of my ability.Thanks,I hope you can help.

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on February 9, 2002 at 08:13:04 PM by Larry Harsin Your 550 is a 1964. Good Luck with your restoration. Larry

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on February 13, 2002 at 04:45:13 PM by Greg S I'm in the process of restoring a 1961 550 HC. Engine is done and now have the tractor split to work on the drive clutch, PTO. Good luck....

oliver combine ??

IP: 207.32.56.253 Posted on February 8, 2002 at 10:52:47 PM by Eddie I have an opportunity to get (for free) an Oliver combine. I cant however find any photos of such a beast. Is this person mistaken, or is this just a rare beast??

Re(1): oliver combine ??

IP: 207.32.56.253 Posted on February 8, 2002 at 10:54:02 PM by Larry Harsin There are lots of Oliver combines depending on the area where you live. Some areas had more than others. If you know the model number etc. you can get information on it (Operator's Manual etc.) from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City Headquarters. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry

CLUTCh

IP: 207.32.56.253 Posted on February 8, 2002 at 10:49:47 PM by Neal Nelson i have a 770 row crop that is in need of a clutch. i have worked on this tractor for sbout 5 years but nothing of this major type of work i need a book to help get started. As I can only guess as to how to trouble shoot the problem Thanks Neal Nelson

Re(1): CLUTCh

IP: 207.32.56.253 Posted on February 8, 2002 at 10:51:00 PM by Larry Harsin You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Headquarters at: hpocacc@fiai.net You should also get an I & T Shop Manual from Jensales Inc. 800-443-0625. If you find you are in need of a clutch or other parts, email us and maybe we can help you find them. Larry


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