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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" February, 2003 Archives
power steering for 550
IP: 149.149.5.134 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 02:56:36 PM by Alan Lane
Larry, is there an after market kit available to add on a 550 to convert it from manual to power steering? If so where can i get it and how much does it normaly cost? Would it be better/easier to find the parts i need from a salvage yard? I enjoy your web site and look forward to your response.
Re(1): power steering for 550
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 06:37:37 PM by Larry Harsin
There is no after market power steering that I am aware of. If you have to have one, I would start checking with salvage yards. Check with Tim Smith at: 330-832-9792 - call him in the evenings. You could check with Worthington Tractor Parts (salvage) 800-533-5304. Larry
Oliver 66 question(s)
IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 01:58:33 PM by Clint
Do hydraulic unit types (1,2 and 3) all work with a '51 66 RC gas with out modification? Which one would you use for the RC66? Also, would you happen to have the float settings for the Marvel Schebler TSX 363 carb? Is there a rule of thumb when setting the idle and fuel mixer screws? i.e. screw them in all the way in and back them out 2 1/2 turns for the idle and 2 turns for the mixer. Just need something to get me close and work from there. Thanks for any help you can throw my way.
Re(1): Oliver 66 question(s)
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 06:33:14 PM by Larry Harsin
All will work if they are for a 66. The ones on a 77 won't work. I would use a series 3 for the 66. The float settings for the MS carb is approx 1/4 inch. I usually set the load screws at 1 & 3/4 turns and the idle mixture at 1 & 1/8 turn. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 66 question(s)
IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on March 5, 2003 at 08:15:10 AM by Clint
Thanks for all of your help. I and others really appreciate the great effort you put forward in making your Oliver message board the best there is!
Oliver license plate
IP: 216.178.86.108 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 08:47:26 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. Do you know of anyone that would sell a license plate that says Oliver on it? I only ever saw one before. Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver license plate
IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 09:50:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Sometimes you see them in the vendor booths at the National Shows etc. We are going to the Winter Get-Together in March, we'll see what we can find out for you. Larry
Re(2): Oliver license plate
IP: 209.92.255.18 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 08:48:44 AM by Mike Renner
Thank you Larry. Mike Renner
common engine?
IP: 216.65.166.192 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 07:16:35 PM by Dale Grabill
Hi Larry,I am working on the engine of my Oliver 70 about a 1942, this is my first engine and first Oliver( the other tractors have a different shade of green).I am enjoying working on it and have been able to find parts so far. I have been reading and hearing from the parts suppliers that this is not a common or adbundent engine and is an expensive one to work on. My question-when I look for another one is there a Oliver model(s) that has more common parts and are less expensive? I am looking at a 880 diesel,but am open to others from the 880's and older. I have been impressed with the engineering that went into this tractor,there is room to get the tools in to work on it, it is well built and it is simple. Thanks, Dale
Re(1): common engine?
IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 09:46:06 PM by Larry Harsin
It's expensive. Most of them are worn out and they are going to need to be completely rebuilt. Parts are available. If you need help finding parts, email us and we will try to help you find them. I think the next logical step for you if you want to work on it yourself, would be a 66 or a 77. The 66 engine is identical to the 77 as far as the moving parts, except that it is 2 cylinders smaller. A 4 cylinder instead of 6. Both of these tractors are excellent, well engineered tractors and are fairly common to find with good parts availability. The 88 is also very good with good parts availability. The 88's are highly sought after by tractor pullers. But some of the pullers are going to the 66's and 77's now also. We just overhauled an Oliver 60 and some of those parts are getting nearly impossible to find. When you get into a 77, you will really see some superior engineering considering when these tractors were designed. We're glad you found the "right green". :-) Larry
SERIAL# SUPER 55 OLIVER
IP: 67.241.28.209 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 10:07:19 AM by daniel w morrow
DEAR SIRS, I HAVE A SUPER 55 OLIVER GAS AND THE SERIAL# IS QUIT STRANGE. IT DOES NOT CORRISPOND WITH ANY RANGE OF NUMBERS I`VE SEEN. AS CLOSE AS I CAN GET ITS EARLY `54. THE # IS 12070-518. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT. I`VE E-MAILED TWO OTHER SITES WITH NO RESPONSE FROM THEM AT ALL. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME..
Re(1): SERIAL# SUPER 55 OLIVER
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 12:56:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Your S55 was built in 1955. In 1954 they used a 4 digit serial number. They went to 5 digit numbers in 1955. Larry
Re(2): SERIAL# SUPER 55 OLIVER
IP: 67.217.48.92 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 04:34:58 PM by daniel morrow
thanks so much,one other thing. the engine is either a waukasha or continental. when i replaced the head gasket, it had waukasha stamped on it.but when i bought a distributor cap, the business showed it was continental?? i`m confused. the head gasket i got was for a 180 waukasha and it fit???
Re(3): SERIAL# SUPER 55 OLIVER
IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 09:34:50 PM by Larry Harsin
It's a 180 Waukesha. Larry
354 Perkins - more power??
IP: 216.170.218.36 Posted on March 2, 2003 at 09:55:25 PM by Jason
I have recently purchased a 105 White with a 354 Perkins. We already have 2 1850's with the same motor and are very happy with them. I would like to rebuild the engine in the 105 White for field work and tractor pulls. When I rebuild it, I would like to increase the power so I can compete with the Internationals at the pulls. Do you have any information that could help me with this? Any additional websites?
Re(1): 354 Perkins - more power??
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 06:43:17 AM by Larry Harsin
No, I don't. I'm sure there are lots of things that could be done to that engine, but I don't really know what. Check with Shop Foreman at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I think he could help you. Larry
Re(1): 354 Perkins - more power??
IP: 65.196.121.102 Posted on March 3, 2003 at 04:07:21 PM by m kuhns
Pull ther timing window off the pump and just loosen the bolts that turn around on the shaft in there. If you turn it around enough you will find a groove or slot in the shaft. Directly above it is a little lever that can be turned once the drive bolts are loose. Some pumps are different, but move the lever all the way the one direction. Tighten the bolts and try it out. You'll know if you have more power. If you lose power turn the lever all the way the opposite direction. Like I said some pumps are different from each other. You should be able to get about 140-160Hp with it turned all the way up. Our 1850 is running close to 200hp with the next size larger head in hte pump.
Re(2): 354 Perkins - more power??
IP: 216.170.218.8 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 08:47:29 PM by Jason
Thank you both for the information. I have a question on turning the pump up. I am running a turbo on a 105 White series and I need to replace it. Should I look for a larger turbo or will the original supply enough air for the engine? Another question - I am also replacing the injector pump and injectors. Is there a larger size pump and injectors I should look for or will the original size be sufficient? Do you know of any internal engine improvements I should make to my DOT 1 series 354 Perkins while I overhaul it?
1855
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on March 2, 2003 at 07:48:48 PM by RYAN GILBERT
Hi, I am looking at a 1855,I am told it has a 310 waukasha? engine it it. Did some of teh latter ones have the waukasha in them from the factory or was it just in the 1955's. and how can I tell the difference betwen the two when i look at the tractor. Are the 1855's with the oliver 310 as bad as i hear. thank you
Re(1): 1855
IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on March 2, 2003 at 09:23:57 PM by Larry Harsin
All 1855's had Waukesha 310 engines. Some have had a 1955 block installed when the original engine gave trouble. The 1855 block did not have a provision for the oil cooler cast into the block, where the 1955 did. The reputation of the 1855 310 engine was not very good. Larry
Disc Brakes
IP: 208.237.191.250 Posted on March 1, 2003 at 06:05:14 PM by jeff loehndorf
I bought a 880 industrial backhoe w/ front loader. I was told that the brakes are bad, but what I found is leaking seals into brake cans and an over adjusted linkage. Where do I get new seals and what is the thickness of new brakes to minumum use disc pads?
overheating
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on March 1, 2003 at 07:31:06 AM by Geoff Sweeney
I have an Oliver HG gets hot instantly. Radiator good,timing right,no airflow blockage,fluid clean. What do I check next?
Re(1): overheating
IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on March 1, 2003 at 06:33:51 PM by Larry Harsin
Check for a stuck thermostat or a water pump impeller not turning due to being loose on the shaft. Larry
440 gov. parts
IP: 63.159.196.94 Posted on February 28, 2003 at 09:14:45 AM by Tom Rowe-Drake
Larry ,I'm repairing the oil leaks on my super 44 and 440 {F140 eng. with pierce gov.} I'm looking for two of each; #700452A brg.'s , # 700159A seals , # 452355A gaskets and one #700160A welch plug. I had a NOS welch plug in my inventory. Any help on these N.O.S. parts will be appreciated. Hope you both have been well. Thanks Tom & Helen
Re(1): 440 gov. parts
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on February 28, 2003 at 09:44:30 PM by Larry Harsin
Hi Tom and Helen! We don't have anything for S44 or 440's. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. We are doing fine here. A fairly mild winter, but we are really dry. Enjoyed your Christmas letter. Larry and Sandy
Re(2): 440 gov. parts
IP: 63.159.128.203 Posted on March 2, 2003 at 07:57:32 AM by Tom Rowe-Drake
Thanks Larry, for the contact # I'll try him on monday. If you come across anyone with N.O.S. oliver parts for sale I would be interested. I'd like to put up a small parts dept.in the tractor barn. I'll see you at some show/event down the Oliver road.Be Well, Tom & Helen
1655 oliver
IP: 66.138.113.45 Posted on February 28, 2003 at 07:57:13 AM by doug
i need to replace the clutch in this fine tractor and can't figure out where to start do i have to pull the motor out to replace the clutch.
Re(1): 1655 oliver
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on February 28, 2003 at 03:27:37 PM by Shep
Yes you do have to pull the engine to replace the clutch. The clutch in my 1655 went bad last fall, I pulled it in the shop and pulled the engine and put a new $250 friction plate in it, all in one day. Pulled the tractor in the shop at 8am Sat morning and it was running and out the door at 4pm with an hour lunch and just me workin and Grandad sittin on the stool tellin stories. Not a hard job at all, but you do need something that will lift the front grill off and lift the engine out. You also have to pull the main PTO shaft out the back before pulling the engine out. Very doable if you have a loader or a engine puller. Good luck Sheps World
Re(2): 1655 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on February 28, 2003 at 09:41:23 PM by Larry Harsin
I concur with what Shep says. I'd like to hear some of his Grandad's stories. Larry
super 55 starter
IP: 198.50.62.15 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 10:54:15 AM by Roy Fleming
I have a super 55 that always started fine until yesterday and now when I push the foot starter plate, nothing happens. There appears to be sufficent voltage at the starter. Can the little push button switch on the starter stick open??
Re(1): super 55 starter
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 06:01:55 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That little switch (on the starter stick) is probably worn out. You will have to take it out and look it over. Sometimes the contacts are bad and you can repair it. Sometimes you just have to get a new switch. Larry
front weights
IP: 63.90.171.41 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 10:40:23 PM by Matt Hayes
I have seen front suitcase weights with MM(minneapolis moline), and IH(international harvester) cast into them. Did cockshutt make front suitcase weights with their name on them? Thanks..
Re(1): front weights
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 06:51:56 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know about cockshutt, but Oliver made front weights earlier but they weren't the suitcase type, but they didn't have their name on them. Some of the Oliver weights had a part number cast on them. I really don't think Oliver had front suitcase weights - I think they came in with White. There may have been a few made for a few of the 55 series tractors, but I'm not sure. Larry
Re(2): front weights
IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 01:23:07 PM by Greg Davis
I've seen suitcase weights on 2255s. Don't know if they were factory or not but they look factory. Greg
Re(1): front weights
IP: 67.0.85.150 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 10:56:22 PM by Dean Barker
The Oliver 1655 operator manual shows suitcase weights as an option. On agdealer website is a cockshutt 1655 for sale with what appears to be the factory suitcase weights.
Super 55 3 point
IP: 204.101.190.231 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 07:35:53 AM by Paul
I am in the process of overhaul and restore of Super 55 Oliver 1955 and the noticed the three point hitch does not lift. Replaced oil with new when had the top off transmission to replace seals and a bull gear with broken tooth. Had engine running for a while at different rpms but no movement to lift. Any easy way to determine if pump is ok suspect relief valve may be stuck as the tractor sat for maybe 15 years with out running. Doing engine overhaul at moment but should be able to see movement while cranking over with starter. Is there any checks I can do without disassembly and if not what should I look for if I do have to disassemble. Thanks Paul in Ontario
Re(1): Super 55 3 point
IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 06:19:43 PM by Larry Harsin
Check the oil flow by removing the hydraulic system drain plug and starting the engine. If the tractor is equipped with an external valve, check the oil flow from the valve. Also, check the lift capacity of the remote cylinder. If little or no oil flows, you will have to repair the pump or the pump drive gears. The drain plug that you will have to remove if you do not have an external valve is located on the right upper part of the hydraulic housing immediately ahead and below the seat on the right side. There is a small casting with 3 cap screws that bolts the casting to the hydraulic unit. The plug that screws into that casting is the drain plug. Now, if you have good oil flow and pressure, you probably will have a dirty or faulty internal valve. Then you will have to disassemble the unit and see what needs to be done. (Clean or repair) Look for dirt or small particles of metal under the relief valve ball located inside the hydrastat spool. The pilot spool may be stuck in the valve body. Check for a scored spool or valve spool bore in the body and replace both parts if either one is damaged. Other things that can be wrong: Bent or broken internal control linkage. Bad "O" rings, broken cylinder, dirt under the ball and external valve and relief valve. Dirt under this valve will prevent the 3 pt. hitch from lifting. Larry
1855
IP: 12.160.226.28 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 00:40:05 AM by Bill H
I have a 1855 that has bad sprockets and chain. My questions is: 1 Is there a way to remove the the sprockets with out pulling the engine?(which I doubt) 2 The tractor has been sitting around not doing anything I think it is not siezed.What do I need to do to get it running? example: oil, filters, etc. thanx
Re(1): 1855
IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 07:34:36 AM by Larry Harsin
You are right! You have to pull the engine. Make certain all the fluid levels are o.k. Try to turn the engine by hand before you attempt to start it. Be sure there is no water in the fuel system and the filters. If you find water or dirt in the bottom of the filters, I would install new filters before I tried to start it. As per instructions in your manual, I would get fresh fuel flowing through the pump by use of the hand primer pump on the engine. Then you should be able to try to start it. Larry
Re(2): 1855
IP: 12.160.226.9 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 03:00:26 PM by Bill
How much of a pain will it be to pull engine? I was told that I would have to drain and change oil and hydrolic oil but, that is a lot of expense to see if the engine is siezed or not!!!
Re(3): 1855
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on February 27, 2003 at 06:44:31 AM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to use your own good judgement. To help determine if you need new oil, loosen the drain plug and if any moisture comes out or if the oil is milky, change the oil. To remove the engine, you will have to pull the drive shaft for the hydraulic and PTO out of the rear of the tractor. You will have to remove the hood, the fuel tank and the radiator, disconnect all of the engine wiring. Then unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts). Then using a "lifting eye" and a chain hoist, lift the engine with the hydraul transmission from the tractor. Larry
2255
IP: 12.150.142.28 Posted on February 25, 2003 at 08:37:37 PM by Greg Davis
How wide is a 2255 Oliver at its widest point without dual wheels on it. Is it over 8 feet? Just wanted to be sure for hauling purposes. Thanks, Greg
Re(1): 2255
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 00:26:51 AM by Larry Harsin
The 2255 without duals will fit on an 8 foot bed. It is a heavy tractor. It weighs 13,500 lbs. Larry
Engine type
IP: 209.83.14.144 Posted on February 25, 2003 at 07:25:29 PM by Brian
I am looking at a oliver 1950T I wondering what type of engine it has in it. The only numbers i found on it where the idenification numbers behind the starter. They are 221520B 166101A and 61 but there is also a nother letter or number in front of the 61 that i can not make out.
Re(1): Engine type
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 00:24:42 AM by Larry Harsin
The engine is a 310 Waukesha. It's a 3 and 7/8 bore and I think it is a 4 and 3/8 stroke. Larry
550 Power Steering Cylinder Repair
IP: 12.89.160.153 Posted on February 25, 2003 at 07:10:29 PM by Mike B
Hi Larry, Currently working on 550 power steering booster cylinders. According the the Oliver Shop Manual, I should be able to remove the rod entirely once the retaining ring, scraper and back up washer is removed. I removed everything including the inner seal. However, it bottoms against a very definite stop somewhere inside of the cylinder end and won't budge. Do you know if the rod is removeable, and if so, are there seals like a typical hydraulic cylinder on the rod? Down in the bore I can see what looks to be a metal cage (cup) for the seal but it is a bit more substantial and seems to almost be a permanent part of the cylinder. That for starters is in the way but I don't want to maul it to get it out. I want to remove the rod in the hope of putting on new cups as the rod strokes too easily and seems to let oil pass by. Any help or tips are appreciated.
Re(1): 550 Power Steering Cylinder Repair
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 00:22:41 AM by Larry Harsin
That cylinder is non-repairable in that respect. You will just have to replace it. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 about this. I think there is someone building after market cylinders for these. Larry
cockshutt 1750
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on February 25, 2003 at 05:49:16 PM by Phil
Larry, I have a Marvel Schebler mod.# USX-29 carb on my 1750. The book calls for a USX-44. The question is (since I can't find a new USX-44), what tractor model, horsepower, and cubic inch displacement did the USX-29 carb come installed on? I would like to rebuild my USX-29 to USX-44 spec if possible. Great web site by the way and I enjoy it almost every day.
Re(1): cockshutt 1750
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 26, 2003 at 00:19:30 AM by Larry Harsin
If you have a USX-29 that is working good, I wouldn't change a thing. The 32-1 was factory on an 1850 gas. I think the USX-29 came on the 1800's - the B and C series. That USX-29 carburator is about right for the 1750. I wouldn't attempt to change the 29 to a 44. Those carburators are touchy and they are hard to get parts for. Larry
Loader
IP: 12.109.84.40 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 02:41:32 PM by Jim
Are there loaders to fit a wide front Super 77 gas? I have been thinking about putting one on if I thought I could find one that would fit easily and not be too much for the tractor.
Re(1): Loader
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 10:18:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. There are loaders that will fit a S77 gas. A WL 30 Westendorf is a good choice. A 1610 Oliver loader would work. Stanhoist has one that will fit. You could check with Jay at O'Brien Co Impl. for a loader 800-320-6224. We don't know where you are, so you should look locally. Larry
tractor parts
IP: 66.67.18.47 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 01:19:07 PM by Ron Goodwill
Do you have any gasket kits for an Oliver 66, and do you have any repair manuals for this tractor? If I can't get parts for the engine, if anybody ever converted a 283 small block Chevy or a 351 Windsor in one of these tractors, and how would you go about doing it and what would I need. Someone told me it had a blown head gasket, but I don't know for sure.
Re(1): tractor parts
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 10:14:37 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 for the gasket kit or parts. You can get a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at email: fchs@fiai.net. I don't do conversions to automobile engines. Larry
1800 or 1850
IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 09:05:07 AM by Greg Davis
Larry, My friend has what he thinks is an 1800 Oliver with 1850 sheet metal on it. Engine block numbers are 157329A, 2211200, and 11133. Serial numbers are 141-173-844 and 38-1264. Can you help us? Is it a Waukesha or a Perkins engine and is it an 1800 or an 1850? Thanks Greg Davis
Re(1): 1800 or 1850
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 10:11:48 PM by Larry Harsin
The serial number 141-173-844 looks to be an 1800 C series. (Late one) If it is an 1800 C, it would be a Waukesha engine.
Air Cleaner
IP: 64.19.83.79 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 09:46:54 PM by kris
I was wondering if the 4 digit tractors came with a dry type air cleaner that would fit on my 880 gas?
Re(1): Air Cleaner
IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 10:37:51 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think they will without doing some remodeling. There's a possibility that a 1650 gas air cleaner might fit an 880. But I have not tried it. Larry
OC - 46 Engine
IP: 63.232.5.38 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 08:47:14 PM by Art Hall
Larry I just bought an OC46 loader with a 4 cylinder engine that is bad. Is there any more modern engine that could be used to replace it with a minimum of hassle?
Re(1): OC - 46 Engine
IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 10:35:46 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. Call Landis Zimmerman. He's a Cletrac Expert. His phone is 717-738-2573 his email: zoc@att.net. Larry
super 55, stuck in 6th gear
IP: 12.172.241.121 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 02:17:39 PM by Carl Knouse
All I can find on the frame plate is a production number "25-0007" and a serial number "48-197-518". I am having a problem with the tractor stuck in 6th gear. I removed the shifting lever and best I can tell the notches line up for the forks. I can still select other gears, but when I do it goes into two gears at once and the tractor will not move. Can anyone offer any help?
Re(1): super 55, stuck in 6th gear
IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 10:33:42 PM by Larry Harsin
Get a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Then you will know how to proceed and what help you will need. Larry
Re(2): super 55, stuck in 6th gear
IP: 208.10.124.159 Posted on February 24, 2003 at 11:02:35 AM by Larry from MD.
The shift fork for 6th gear is broke off,so when you move the shift rail the shift collar is not moveing.do NOT run or pull the tractor around like this if you can help it,sooner or later the broke of piece will get into the gears and cause more trouble.
Re(3): super 55, stuck in 6th gear
IP: 65.196.120.54 Posted on March 2, 2003 at 10:05:07 AM by Carl Knouse
Larry, I found the problem,I removed the top transmittion cover and found the main shaft in the transmission had a lock nut on the front of the shaft that had backed itself loose and the main shaft had about a 1/4" play! Now the question is how to address it. There appears to be no lock ring to lock the nut (ring with tap to bend over). Aparently it has been apart before because the nut has a lot of chisel marks on it. ALl the gears and bearings look good.
Re(4): super 55, stuck in 6th gear
IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on March 5, 2003 at 12:47:23 AM by Larry Harsin
I think there is a notch in the shaft, where you can stake the nut into. Larry
Oliver 1655 Dual Speed PTO
IP: 67.0.84.58 Posted on February 22, 2003 at 10:25:16 PM by Dean Barker
Other than pulling the output shaft and checking for two sets of internal splines, is there an easier was to determine if a 1600-1650-1655 tractor has the dual speed pto option?
Re(1): Oliver 1655 Dual Speed PTO
IP: 209.163.7.46 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 06:08:44 AM by Larry Harsin
On the 1650 and the 1655, that is about the only way you can tell. The 1600 was made differently and I never find them with dual speed. The ones I have found were all made with 540's. Larry
Oliver Rowcrop 70
IP: 67.1.101.72 Posted on February 22, 2003 at 05:13:12 PM by Caleb Bermann
I have a Oliver 70 that has been sitting for several years because it has water in the oil and I was wondering if this a commen head gasket problem or if I should be looking for something else.
Re(1): Oliver Rowcrop 70
IP: 209.163.7.46 Posted on February 23, 2003 at 06:06:17 AM by Larry Harsin
It is not necessarily a common problem. Let's hope that it is a head gasket problem instead of a cracked head or block. Larry
Oliver 83 Picker
IP: 209.176.168.220 Posted on February 21, 2003 at 07:16:20 PM by Regan Joehl
I currently have a New Idea 2RW Supersheller I use to harvest popcorn. I have come accross an Oliver 83 2RN (I use narrow rows) corn picker and was wondering if it would be at all possible to take the head off the Oliver and get it to fit on my New Idea. I am pretty sure it would tak a lot of adapting, but if it is even possible, I could probally handle it! Any information you could provide me would be greatly appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver 83 Picker
IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on February 22, 2003 at 06:51:17 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have any information. I would assume that it probably could be done. Without having it in front of me, I can't just say what you'd have to do. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 83 Picker
IP: 209.176.168.205 Posted on February 22, 2003 at 10:29:11 AM by Regan
Thanks for the reply. I figured it would be hard to provide info on this issue unless someone had attempted it befor me! Sounds like a winter project I just might have to try. Thanks again. If I learn anything in the future I will let you know.
18504WD
IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on February 21, 2003 at 10:04:54 AM by Greg Davis
Larry, I'm looking at buying an 1850 4WD, it has 15.5 x 38 tires on the rear. It is the mechanical 4WD not the hydraulic front wheel assist. Not sure what size tire is on the front but they are new. My question is will an 18.4 x 34 or 18.4 x 38 tire be compatible to use on the rear of this 4WD? I realize they have to make the gear ratios work out right. Do you have a chart that tells what sizes for the front and rear match up? I wouldn't be running it in 4wd all the time. Only when necessary and when in the field or mud and for short periods of time. Thanks, Greg Davis
Re(1): 18504WD
IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on February 22, 2003 at 06:48:38 AM by Larry Harsin
I know we discussed this on the phone, but to put and answer here. There are speed charts in the Operator's Manual. I think it will operate satisfactorily. Larry
crawler model
IP: 66.81.208.88 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 09:18:45 PM by Rick
Larry, I just purchased an Oliver crawler. I was told it was an OC-4 but I think it is an HG. The plate just behind the magneto had a model number of IXK-3, an engine number of 4237372, and on the left side of the transmission was the number 112291. The unit was painted and whoever did it painted over everything. It would be great if you tell me what I have. The gas tank is behind the engine but in front of the driver. It is a 4 cylinder flathead with what appears to be a 3 speed transmission. I only used it a few minutes before encountering some starter problems that I am fixing. This unit has been rigged with a blade for bulldozing. Thanks for any help you can give.
Re(1): crawler model
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on February 21, 2003 at 06:17:11 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't believe it is an OC-4 as they had a 4 speed transmission. It could be an OC-3 or an HG. Check with Landis Zimmerman at: zoc@att.net or 717-738-2573. He will be able to tell you what you have and help you with any parts that you need. Larry
Re(2): crawler model
IP: 208.10.124.245 Posted on February 21, 2003 at 11:36:04 AM by Larry from MD.
The serial number is stamped into the frame on the right side next to the clutch houseing.You may have to remove some paint to find it,but then you can look up what it is.
770 oliver
IP: 24.49.38.103 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 04:40:31 PM by leon king
Iam looking for parts and more information for my 770 oliver. the spec. #is 37-0012 and the model #68814-721
Re(1): 770 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 06:52:31 PM by Larry Harsin
Is your model number the serial number? We need the serial number. It sounds like you need an Operator's Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Email me as to what parts you need. I may have some of them or know who does. Larry
550 noise
IP: 216.169.74.28 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 04:30:15 PM by Dugan MacDonald
Larry, Thanks for the great site. I have inherited a ,63 550 with an I&T shop manual but am having trouble dianosing a noise in front of the tractor. It is a squeel like a P/S pump on a car makes when the wheels are turned to the stops. My problems are, I cannot find the P/S punp to check the fulid level, and I am not sure that this is the problem. The tractor steers fine there is no sticking in either direction. The tractor has a loader on it and i noticed the fulid had little bubbles in it after i had used it for 15 min approx. Do I need to change the fluid? and if so what kind and viscosity do you recomend? Thanks, Dugan
Re(1): 550 noise
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 06:48:52 PM by Larry Harsin
Maybe you have a loose fan belt. You could have a generator bearing that is squeeling. I don't know what kind of loader you have. All of the 550 with power steering have a pump in the vicinity of the generator. Are you sure you have power steering? There should be a reservoir in that area with a dipstick. I would highly reccomend that you get the serial number from your tractor and order an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. I don't want to reccomend what oil to use without knowing what you have, but I would guess it is a 10W hydraulic oil and it probably needs to be changed. While you have it drained, make sure the strainer and the filters are serviced before you put in new oil. Larry
Re(2): 550 noise
IP: 12.89.92.94 Posted on February 25, 2003 at 09:32:17 AM by Mike B
I believe that Oliver recommends Automatic Transmission Fluid type A in the power steering, not hydraulic fluid. Look for the PS pump up high above the water pump on later models (two fan belts) or direct coupled on the back of the generator on older models (around 1960 and earlier). Write to me for more help if needed. I have two 550s with PS.
oliver oc3
IP: 64.65.233.47 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 01:12:29 PM by d green
what type/size spark plug should i use it has a four cylinder engine
Re(1): oliver oc3
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 06:41:28 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Landis Zimmerman is the crawler expert. Contact him at: zoc@att.net. Larry
Re(2): oliver oc3
IP: 208.10.125.167 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 07:00:01 PM by Larry from MD.
The campion number would be W14 for 7/8 heads and j6c for 14mm heads.Most likely you need the W14.
Literature
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 08:09:03 PM by Kevin Rooney
Do you know of someone that collects Oliver literature? I have several quite unique pieces and a lot of routine literature.
Re(1): Literature
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 10:49:10 PM by Larry Harsin
There are a lot of Oliver literature collectors. Check with Tim Thurmer at thurmer@rconnect.com or Jerry Erickson at 507-325-4745 or Sherry Schaefer at sherry@oliverinformation.com. Larry
Loader for 88 Oliver Diesel
IP: 69.3.70.174 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 04:43:18 PM by Rudy
I am looking for a loader capable of picking up 10 - 14x18 bales of alfalfa per lift. Need to know makes, models that will bolt up to 88 Oliver Diesel tractor. Do you have contacts in Washington (State) or Oregon interested in selling? Do you have specs for hydraulic tank to left of gear shift? Is there supposed to be a pump in that tank? Thank you (in advance) for any help you're able to give me on this - have been looking for quite a while now. rp
Re(1): Loader for 88 Oliver Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 10:42:03 PM by Larry Harsin
Right now, I don't have a loader that will fit on an 88. A Westendorf WL 30 would be the loader that I would reccomend. I do not have contacts in WA or OR. I don't have specs for hydraulic tank to left of gear shift. I have some used hydraulic tanks for older Oliver tractors. I need to know what style of hydraulic system you have on your tractor. It is an auxillary oil reservoir. I would need to have pictures of the hydraulic unit before I could possibly furnish a tank. No, there is not a pump in that tank. It is already part of the unit on the tractor. Larry
Oliver Hyd Unit #3
IP: 65.170.120.146 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 09:16:32 AM by Wiley
I have a 1949 Oliver Row Crop 88 that I recently installed a No. 3 Hydra-Lectric Hydraulic Unit on. After installing it, I attached a hydraulic cylinder to the left side ports and found that both ports were pressurized at all times, even with the controls in neutral. I then disconnected the cylinder and installed it on the right side ports. The cylinder worked on the rights side until I plugged the left side ports. I now have all the ports under pressure at all times. To try to correct this problem, I replaced the O-Ring seals in the interlock assembly. Unfortunately I did not have the square lip o-rings, so I used regular o-rings. I reinstalled the controls and tested the unit. It still pressurizes all the ports even with the control in neutral. Does anyone have any idea why this hydraulic unit will not control flow? Any information on correcting this problem will be greatly appreciated. Thank You Bill Wiley chiefwiley391@yahoo.com
Re(1): Oliver Hyd Unit #3
IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 12:09:34 AM by Larry Harsin
I'm guessing that someone has utilized the power beyond port. There is a 1/2 inch pipe plug directly ahead of where the front hose hooks on for the left-hand valve. Remove this 1/2" pipe plug and see if there is a 3/8" pipe plug blocking the passage. Where this 3/8" plug would be sitting is approx. 2 inches inside. This 3/8" plug is blocking the passage that goes over to the hydraulic filter. Simply remove it and reinstall the 1/2" pipe plug and everything should work. Larry
Re(2): Oliver Hyd Unit #3
IP: 65.170.120.146 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 02:05:22 PM by Wiley
Larry thanks a million. I will check for this blocked passage tonight. Hopefully this will do the trick. I spent most of this past weekend pulling my hair out over this. We just received 20^(2) of snow here in NJ and I was unable to use my old Oliver for plowing the snow, as I would commonly do. Thanks again. Bill Wiley.
Re(3): Oliver Hyd Unit #3
IP: 65.170.120.146 Posted on February 20, 2003 at 07:15:04 AM by Anonymous
Yes that did the trick. I removed the plug and the controls work great. Thanks again Bill Wiley.
troqueconverter
IP: 208.237.191.250 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 08:25:24 PM by Jeffrey R. Loehndorf
I recently bought an 880? w/ 5 speed gear box and the forward, reverse torque converter. This is a backhoe and front loader type. The linkage is in bad shape and I am repairing, how do I adjust the shufter to go forward and backwards. Having trouble with this adjustment!
Re(1): troqueconverter
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 10:00:24 PM by Larry Harsin
You should get a Service Manual for the Reversa-Torque so that you can adjust it properly. Contact Mary Ann at Charles City: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
77 head
IP: 63.208.71.130 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 06:40:02 PM by savin sundstrom
larry do you know if there is a head with bigger valves that will fit a 77
Re(1): 77 head
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:57:55 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. A head from a 770 fits right on there. I have one for sale. If you are interested, email me. Larry
880 makes noise in reverse
IP: 64.19.84.36 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 03:57:02 PM by kris
I have a 1959 880 gas with the power booster option. I have not used the power booster since buying the tractor last year because the lever and fork for engaging it are missing.When I back off of a trailer the tractor seems to start freewheeling a little and makes a rattling noise that is either coming from the clutch or power booster.It will also do this when I back up at high throttle then shove throttle to idle real quick. It seems as though momentum is making the transmission override the braking action of the engine but it only does this in reverse.I have heard there is a sprag type clutch in the powerbooster and was wondering if this is the culprit? Thanks for your input.
Re(1): 880 makes noise in reverse
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:56:33 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it could be what you say. If that overcenter clutch between the engine and the power booster is released so that it is in the underside, it will freewheel. If the clutch is locked so that it is engaged on the high side, the tractor will not freewheel. Larry
Re(2): 880 makes noise in reverse
IP: 64.19.86.96 Posted on February 18, 2003 at 04:39:09 PM by kris
I believe the the clutch is locked in direct drive.....it travels pretty fast down the road(which it wouldn't in underdrive)so I'm not sure where the noise is coming from.
hyd. pump super 55
IP: 216.203.251.1 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 01:10:01 AM by Larry Guy
Is there a rebuild kit for the hyd. pump on a oliver super 55 or a type of pump to exchange it with thanks.
Re(1): hyd. pump super 55
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:53:27 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or Rick's Agri-Parts at: www.ricksagriparts.com. Larry
950
IP: 161.184.179.122 Posted on February 16, 2003 at 02:51:18 PM by Gil
Larry, How rare is the 950 oliver, you don't see many where I live in canada.
Re(1): 950
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:51:49 PM by Larry Harsin
They are not exactly rare, but they are not real common. A 950 gas is rare. Larry
60 pistons
IP: 63.78.132.156 Posted on February 16, 2003 at 11:43:45 AM by Phil
Larry will the 60hc 120cid pistons and the 66hc 129cid pitons interchange? They are the same bore 3 5/16". Are the piston pins in the same location and the same diameter? Would the clyinder liners interchange?
Re(1): 60 pistons
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:50:01 PM by Larry Harsin
No. None of this will interchange. Check with Korves Bros. www.korvesoliver.com or Don Chandler at 207-935-3339 or Tim Smith at 330-832-9792 or Maibach Tractor 216-939-4192, for these 60 parts. If they don't have it, one of them will know where to find it. Larry
belt pulley removal
IP: 66.217.78.129 Posted on February 16, 2003 at 10:54:04 AM by Joe LeBlanc
Larry, First, let me thank you for your help in locating parts for my 70 RC. you've been very helpful. I have located a belt pulley mechanism for my 70 but am having a devil of a time removing it from another tractor. I have removed the 2 bolts that hold the assembly to the tractor chassis, but it won't budge. I think it should slide off, but I could be wrong. Can you help me? Thanks, Joe
Re(1): belt pulley removal
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 09:45:26 PM by Larry Harsin
It's held with those 2 bolts that you removed. Then it slides off of the 2 dowels and sometimes it sticks. It can be a bear. Get a large tapered chisel that you can drive between the pulley casting and the tractor frame to make it slide off of the dowels. Larry
what make/model
IP: 168.191.175.53 Posted on February 14, 2003 at 09:04:44 PM by Tretch Lawrence
larry, I just purchased an oliver tractor and don't know a thing about it like the model and year it has an identification plate on the under left hand side of the steering console it has a specification # 37-0015, a serial# 81861-736,on the bell housing #101467A, left side of engine#185220-E under that#IMB-100-B and under the engine#101485A, also says row crop on the rear axles. If you could see if any of those #'s make any sense. I can't find anything that matches that serial# maybe you have a bigger database. I know this may be a little much but any information is greatly appreciated. thank you, Tretch L, Eugene,MO.
Re(1): what make/model
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 15, 2003 at 05:04:55 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it is an early 770 and possibly built in 1959. The 1MB-100 B is a 770 and the number on the bell housing is a 770. That serial number would fit into the first year that they built. Larry
Re(1): what make/model
IP: 168.191.175.53 Posted on February 14, 2003 at 09:29:01 PM by tretch again
Also it is a 6cyl and has a square front end,,, in some pictures i see it looks kinda like a cross between a 770 and a 1650 someware around the late 60's or early 70"S
Re(2): what make/model
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 15, 2003 at 05:07:28 AM by Larry Harsin
I still think it is an early 770. Someone could have put a fiberglass grill on it. Larry
oliver 2655
IP: 209.103.222.221 Posted on February 13, 2003 at 11:37:54 AM by Dave
I'm going to look at what's suppose to be an Oliver 2655. I had never heard of one and I was wondering if there ever was one. The only thing I know about it is that it is 800 CI and runs on LP. Any information you could give me would be helpful
Re(2): oliver 2655
IP: 208.10.125.155 Posted on February 14, 2003 at 11:37:39 AM by Larry from MD.
I have one too.Some of them did have the 800+ci gas engine that moline sold alot of as irragation engines.The engines where popular in places where the gas was cheap like texas.the whole tractor is a moline A4t 1600 painted oliver green.Allthough the gas is much more ci. it only has a little more power than the diesel which is 147.
Re(3): oliver 2655
IP: 208.10.125.155 Posted on February 14, 2003 at 11:45:43 AM by Larry from MD.
I looked at the one you have and it looks like it has the exausht and air cleaner in differant places Does it have an add on turbo?I would love to sell mine too.
Re(4): oliver 2655
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 15, 2003 at 04:56:49 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, this one has a turbo that is factory installed. Larry
Re(5): oliver 2655
IP: 35.11.231.118 Posted on February 15, 2003 at 04:09:22 PM by Big John
HEY WHAT ARE YOU ASKING FOR THAT BIG 2655 HOW MUCH HP DOES IT HAVE THANKS BIG JOHN
Re(6): oliver 2655
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 17, 2003 at 10:02:20 PM by Larry Harsin
It has approx. 150 hp and I'm asking $8500 for it. Larry
Oliver 88 Antifreeze leak
IP: 209.92.255.18 Posted on February 12, 2003 at 05:18:34 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I'm having a problem with my antifreeze running out the overflow. When I add antifreeze I fill it about an inch or two from the top of the radiator. It looks fine to me. When I start it and even before it gets hot it will drain a good bit of it out the overflow. I just replaced the thermostat, but it did this even before I replaced it. Is this normal or is there something I might be overlooking? Thank you very much for your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 88 Antifreeze leak
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 12, 2003 at 07:12:00 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd try running it a little bit low and see if it still acts up. If it does, then you have a problem. It's possible that you are getting compression into your water jacket. This means that possibly you have a bad head gasket. Or it could be a cracked cylinder head or a cracked sleeve. Larry
pulling 1850 motor
IP: 199.174.4.57 Posted on February 10, 2003 at 09:30:01 PM by Tommy Cannon
Where to you attach the back chain to pull the perkins motor? It doesn't have a rear bracket like the one in a Massey combine. It also has hydrapower. Hoe much will this assembly weigh the IT manual is lacking on this part. You help would be appreciated, thanks TC
Re(1): pulling 1850 motor
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on February 11, 2003 at 06:52:20 AM by Larry Harsin
There was a lifting bracket furnished with the tractor when it was new. It was in the toolbox. It had to be bolted onto the cylinder head. There were 2 - 3/8" fine threaded cap screws that attached it to the cylinder head. I think the lifting eye is identical to the front one. You may have to make one. You may have to remove a bracket at the rear of the engine to attach that lifting eye. If I remember correctly, it was a fuel tank bracket. This assembly will weigh approx 1000 lbs with the hydra-power on it. This is just a guess. Larry
cockshutt 1350 rim color
IP: 63.90.171.105 Posted on February 10, 2003 at 06:49:50 AM by Matt Hayes
I was wondering if anyone knew what color of white the rims on a cockshutt 1350 are supposed to be, and a paint code number if possible. Thanks, Matt
Re(1):cockshutt 1350 rim color
IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on February 10, 2003 at 07:19:05 AM by Larry Harsin
We don't have a separate listing for white on a cockshutt. We feel if your wheels are white, that they are the Oliver Clover White. They did paint some cockshutts red with clover white wheels. You can get this at your AGCO dealer cheaper than having it mixed. Larry
Super 55 or 555 Gasoline
IP: 207.89.249.99 Posted on February 9, 2003 at 08:59:24 AM by Jimbob
Are new parts available such as water pumps, ignition, starters, engine rebuild kits, etc? How about live PTO, 3-point hitch & power steering? Tnx, Jimbob
Re(1): Super 55 or 555 Gasoline
IP: 209.163.7.89 Posted on February 9, 2003 at 12:54:29 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. They have these parts. Larry
Re(1): Super 55 or 555 Gasoline
IP: 216.114.97.129 Posted on February 9, 2003 at 08:06:50 PM by Joe
Korves Oliver has most of the parts on stock that you are looking for. Korves Oliver
88 diesel
IP: 24.88.199.252 Posted on February 8, 2003 at 09:42:05 PM by Bob
Looking for Information to go from 230 cid to 300+ cid
Re(1): 88 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on February 9, 2003 at 07:09:29 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of any way to do that. You can go to 265 cid, that's as far as I'd want to go with it. Larry
what kind of loader
IP: 216.81.222.205 Posted on February 8, 2003 at 09:43:56 AM by Howard Clark
what kind of loader should I be looking for to put on this 1855 ? And how much should a good one cost ? I don't want brand new, but not bent or worn out either.
Re(1): what kind of loader
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on February 8, 2003 at 08:27:32 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can find one, a WL 40 or a WL 42 Westendorf is a good loader. They're going to run between $2000 and $3000. Call O'Brien Co Impl at Sheldon, 800-320-6224. Ask for Jay. They have some used loaders over there. They were pretty nice looking loaders - I think a couple of them were Do-all. They get a lot of loaders there. Miller is a pretty nice loader, too. Larry
motor
IP: 152.163.213.64 Posted on February 7, 2003 at 09:07:50 PM by paul
Larry DO you know if oliver ever put a continental motor on a bailer? the tag says it was built in battel creek mich. ser.# is oy91 21128 thank you for your time Paul
Re(1): motor
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on February 8, 2003 at 06:39:49 AM by Larry Harsin
I think there is a good possibility that they may have used a Continental engine at one time. Most of their balers, however, used Wisconsin engines, if they weren't PTO driven. Larry
Oliver 60
IP: 12.81.203.178 Posted on February 7, 2003 at 09:18:18 AM by Russ Shorten
Does anyone know how many wide front 60's were made? thanks
Re(1): Oliver 60
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on February 7, 2003 at 07:40:21 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. Contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com and ask her. I don't know if they kept track of WF/NF. Larry
88 hard shift between ranges
IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on February 6, 2003 at 10:38:51 PM by Larry
I have an 88 with a shift problem. It is hard to shift between high & low range. If I use reverse and shift while rollling it will move to the other range. What is the problem and how difficult is the fix? How much will it cost to fix?
Re(1): 88 hard shift between ranges
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on February 7, 2003 at 06:21:51 AM by Larry Harsin
I think the problem is a worn poppet block on the center rail - the rail that slides through the poppet block. The correct fix is to install a new poppet block. However, I have ground off a small amount of the ramp where the ball sets in the shift rail. The thing that is happening here is that the poppet block has become worn where the ball moves away from the rail and wedges or binds. Assuming that this is the problem, it will be necessary to unbolt the shift forks from the shift rails and then pull the shift rails with the poppet block out of the front of the transmission. Now you will be able to see for sure what is wrong and take the appropriate measures. Nine times out of ten it is the ball wedging in the poppet block that makes that hard shift. Larry
Thank You
IP: 64.12.105.27 Posted on February 6, 2003 at 01:42:03 PM by Randy
Larry i sent you the question on the wl30 loader,to fit on the 460 this was jan.23. Just a quick sincere thank you for the info,that made my buying decision. Again thanks Randy by Cedar Rapids Iowa
Re(1): Thank You
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on February 6, 2003 at 06:22:20 PM by Larry Harsin
Glad we could help. Larry
1850 diesel
IP: 63.170.194.121 Posted on February 6, 2003 at 01:00:40 PM by clint kapels
I'm thinking of buying an 1850 oliver diesel with a farmhand f-11 loader and grapple. Would use it too move round bales around the farm and pull a four row planter. Is this enough tractor for the jobs? I'm new to olivers and any info would be apprietiated. thanks, clint.
Re(1): 1850 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on February 6, 2003 at 06:20:38 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That tractor, if it is in good condition, would be very adequate. The 1850 was certified to produce 92 hp. The 3 pt. hitch should have enough lifting power to carry a big round bale on the back if you wanted. The tractor is big enough to handle a bale on each end. Larry
Re(2): 1850 diesel
IP: 63.170.194.119 Posted on February 7, 2003 at 07:19:27 PM by clint kapels
Thanks Larry, great website. Clint
1850 front axle
IP: 64.68.173.193 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 09:35:03 PM by David
On a 1850 with late wide front what has to be done to put a new pitman arm on steering shaft. Do we have to remove radiator and sector or the front axle? A friend broke one side of the pitman and it is -10 tonight. it is not a job for outside.
Re(1): 1850 front axle
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 10:29:23 PM by Larry Harsin
The tractor will have to be jacked up and the front end dropped out of it. I can usually get it done without removal of the radiator. Otherwise, it is possible to replace the pitman shaft leaving the front end on the tractor and removing the radiator. Either way it is a big job. Larry
crawler
IP: 63.65.188.7 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 07:15:42 PM by Barry Bailey
Can you tell me the difference between the HG and the OC. I recently bought a oliver crawler, and i dont know what it is for sure. Havent found a serial tag yet. It has a hercules IXB3 motor. Thank you. Any info will be very helpfull. BarryBailey
Re(1): crawler
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 10:25:15 PM by Larry Harsin
The OC 3 is simply a new updated version of the old HG. They both had that motor. Larry
umbrella
IP: 206.47.184.209 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 07:37:40 AM by Paul
Can anyone tell me where I can purchase an Oliver umbrella. I have all the hardware and only need the cover. Thanks Paul in Ontario
Re(1): umbrella
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 12:43:13 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get one from Larry Scott. Phone him at 719-754-2508. Larry
thanks for the advice on the 1855
IP: 216.81.222.234 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 10:46:56 PM by Howard Clark
Saturday when it qwas nice and warm I changed the oil and filter, and now the hydraulics work fine (at least the three point does). I moved a little snow today, and am very happy with the tractor at this point. Thanks for the nice site and time. I learned quite a bit from reading the archive too ! If ever I get to the area, I may stop in and say howdy. Or if you ever come down this way to vist Max, I only live a couple of miles west of him, stop by, he knows where I live, as he and Dad used to trade labor sometimes. Thanks again Larry !
Re(1): thanks for the advice on the 1855
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on February 5, 2003 at 06:26:18 AM by Larry Harsin
We were glad to be of help. Larry
Oliver 2-bottom plow
IP: 64.12.104.23 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 08:19:52 PM by Steve DeBoer
What are the paint specs for a late 40's/early 50's Model 100?? red plow? Were thewheels green? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 2-bottom plow
IP: 209.163.7.80 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 10:18:36 PM by Larry Harsin
In the late 40's that is probably correct. Larry
1250 Oliver starter
IP: 199.174.157.2 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 01:47:00 AM by Tim Stewart
Larry, I have a 1250 Oliver built by Fiat with a 24 volt starter. The starter is dead and I would like to replace it with a 12 volt starter 12 volt altenator. Do you know of any starter that will fit this tractor? Replacements are supposedly available but very hard to find and expensive and usually not in stock at places that claim to carry them. I am sure there HAS to be another starter that would work on this tractor. I would certainly appreciate any help you can give me. Tim
Re(1): 1250 Oliver starter
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 07:08:50 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Danny Bowes in Ontario Canada. His website is: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. His email is: oldtractor@renc.igs.net. He can get parts for your 1250. Larry
oliver 2255
IP: 152.163.194.204 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 08:12:47 PM by Ryan
Hi, I am intrested in a 2255 with a 3150 i think.Im in CT. and the tractor is in OH. so i cant look at it,is this a good engine and tractor? I ran A few olivers and a 1855 a lot and love them, never had a problum with the 1855 yet lol,its a latter model.What were some common issue's with the 2255 and what should I ask the fella ? Its 2 wheel drive with full cab. Thanks
Re(1): oliver 2255
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 10:21:50 PM by Larry Harsin
The common problem with the 2255 is vibration affecting the radiator and the fuel tank. Ask if they have had these problems. Some other questions to ask are: Is the main wiring harness o.k.? Have there been any electrical problems in the main wiring harness? Parts are available, however. Ask about oil leaks around the engine and hydraul. Larry
Re(2): oliver 2255
IP: 152.163.201.187 Posted on February 8, 2003 at 07:38:39 PM by Anonymous
ok Thanks alot
OLIVER OC-46 TRACK LOADERS
IP: 66.218.193.243 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 04:52:58 PM by DARRELL COGGINS
HELLO I HAVE A OC-46 TRACK LOADER AND I WOULD LIKE TO FIND INFO ABOUT THE FINAL DRIVES R/R I NEED TO REMOVE THE RIGHT HAND SPOCKET SO I CAN GET BEHIND AND FIX THE BEARING RETAINER AS THE PINION GEAR IS SLEPING ON THE RING GEAR. IF YOU HAVE INFO OR A GOOD EXPLODED VIEW OF REMOVE AND REINSTALL. INFO ON THE PARTS WELL COME LATTER TY D COGGINS
Re(1): OLIVER OC-46 TRACK LOADERS
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 10:27:45 PM by Larry Harsin
The Oliver Crawler expert is Landis Zimmerman. Contact him at: zoc@att.net. A Cletrac expert closer to you is Wm E Bechtold at Bechtold Tractor Service in Lodi CA. 209-333-1970. Both of these men have parts and service. It sounds like you need an Operator's Manual. You can order one from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City Ia. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
serial number-identificaton
IP: 216.120.182.216 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 12:33:21 AM by Ray Brenner
We resently found an old Oliver that we are trying to identify year and model. It was my father's and has gone thru a fire-looks pretty rough. the Specification # is 45-0033 the Serial Number is 116 005 519. Can you help? thanks
Re(1): serial number-identificaton
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on February 4, 2003 at 07:16:09 AM by Larry Harsin
Does this tractor look to be a small utility type? More description helps when trying to identify the model. We think this may be a 550 built in 1961. But that serial number could fit others also. Larry
1955
IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 06:31:44 AM by Jason
Hello Larry, I have a 1955 Oliver with the three speed Hydrapower. I went to use it after I overhauled the engine and it worked for about a day and then now it will not hardly pull into the shop in any of the three speed positions. I also have a pto problem. It will engage, but when hooked to something it will not even move? The hydraulics and 3 point work perfect. Thanks for all your help!
Re(1): 1955
IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 06:55:56 AM by Larry Harsin
I really need more info. Does the engine seem to run normal when just sitting running? Do you feel that there is something binding in the transmission or the drive train? Are the oil levels where they belong in the drive train? Feel free to give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry
Oliver yr. & model
IP: 67.97.51.35 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 10:42:24 PM by Junior Swann
hi Larry I have an oliver tractor borrowed from a lady friend.i would like to know what yr. &model it is.the i.d. plate is on the lowwer left dash panel. the only numbers i could find is 55522002&707579. it is afour cyl. 4sp.I would appreciate any info you can give me. thank you Junior Swann
Re(1): Oliver yr. & model
IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 06:49:44 AM by Larry Harsin
Those numbers come close to a 1957 Super 66. Are the numbers divided with any spaces or anything? A 4 cylinder about has to be a 66 or a S66. Larry
77/770 transmission
IP: 152.163.205.62 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 09:08:01 PM by Steve
Larry, Will the gears in a 77 RC transmission interchange with a 770 RC? Is a M608 the same gear as a 1M608? Thanks, Steve
Re(1): 77/770 transmission
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 10:37:03 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, they will interchange. Yes, those 2 gears are the same. Larry
Re(2): 77/770 transmission
IP: 205.188.195.33 Posted on February 3, 2003 at 06:24:53 AM by Steve
Thanks Larry for your help. Steve
wanted: 60 sleeve and piston set
IP: 216.106.56.34 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 08:41:38 PM by Jason Epperson
I was just wondering if there is any source out there for sleeve and piston sets for the 60 series engine. I see kits for all the other engines advertised but not the 60. Any ideas? Thank You
Re(1): wanted: 60 sleeve and piston set
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 10:35:35 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Korves Bros. korves@htc.net. If they don't have them, they may know who does. Larry
RC 60 Questions
IP: 205.188.200.51 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 06:22:42 PM by Dan Supplee
Larry, I just purchased a 1941 RC60 and I have a few questions. I need to get the left side axle off. I have the bearing cap off but the bearing won't slide off. If I pull the top cover off the rear can I release the axle or should the housing just pull off? When I have the tractor running and I push in the clutch, just past the release point I get a grinding in the trans. What is causing that? Also were these all three speeds, it feels like it has a double gate in the shift pattern similar to my 70 Thanks, Dan
Re(1): RC 60 Questions
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 10:33:38 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to remove the cover and find a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the axle will slide right out. I think the grinding noise is in the clutch on the rear of the engine instead of in the transmission. The throwout bearing carrier is striking the pressure plate. Simply shorten the clutch rod a little. All early RC 60's had 4 speed transmissions. It has a high range and a low range. Larry
Oliver 70
IP: 66.158.167.93 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 10:36:30 PM by Justin
I recently bought an oliver 70 which needs a motor overhaul. While I had it apart I was wondering what performance items I can put in it or do to it to increase horsepower? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 70
IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on February 2, 2003 at 06:43:41 AM by Larry Harsin
You can put oversized pistons in it and you can raise the compression ratio by planing the head. Some of the tractor pullers even lengthen the stroke on the crankshaft. I'm not into high performance engines. You should contact someone who is more into tractor pulling. Alteration of these engines can be a very expensive enterprise. Larry
88 diesel
IP: 64.68.225.157 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 07:56:35 PM by jim schneider
my friend has an 88 diesel. it will not start when cranked over but it pull starts just fine and runs well. why is this.
Re(1): 88 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 08:45:59 PM by Larry Harsin
The injection head is probably becoming weak and will not pump fuel to the injectors until the engine is spun faster. If you can improve the cranking speed by repairing the starter and upgrading the batteries (make sure they are top notch), you may be able to get by for awhile. Otherwise, you may have to have the injection head rebuilt. Larry
Rims for 880
IP: 64.19.94.13 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 10:09:56 AM by Kris
I was wondering if the newer style double bevel rims will fit on my 880. The rims I have now have 1 bevel with one drive lug.
Re(1): Rims for 880
IP: 208.10.124.203 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 11:30:34 AM by Larry from MD
Some of the guys in our club have been useing those new wheels and they seem to fit fine.
Re(1): Rims for 880
IP: 64.24.229.88 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 06:46:36 PM by mike in ohio
Kris-- you won't be able to put your cast center disc between the bevels on the new style rims, but they will fit fine outside the bevels. HTH Mike
Re(2): Rims for 880
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 08:42:16 PM by Larry Harsin
I just took a set of double bevel rims off an 880 this week. They fit fine. They happen to be John Deere rims. Looks like they worked fine. You wouldn't be able to get the cast center between the bevels, but they will work. Larry
oliver 70
IP: 12.109.92.118 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 11:15:51 PM by mike smith
my stepfather has a oliver 70 factory wf and we need to no th year the tag is gone and the block numbers is where the block has been repaired before are ther any other ways to find out the year any help would be greatly appreciated thank yot mike
Re(1): oliver 70
IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 06:27:39 AM by Larry Harsin
There's a casting number on the bottom transmission housing that will give the day, month and year that that housing was cast. That is probably the year that the tractor was built. Larry
Re(2): oliver 70
IP: 12.109.92.107 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 08:57:15 AM by mike smith
thanks larry i will try that a see what i can find
Hart parr 70
IP: 64.19.86.99 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 03:22:34 PM by Ed
I plan on putting a battery in my 1937 Oliver Hart Parr 70. Where is the best place to gound it. (The positive terminal as it is a 6 volt). Also, where can I get an oil filter, an owners manual and maybe a service manual. Copys are fine. Thanks
Re(1): Hart parr 70
IP: 209.163.7.36 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 10:20:49 PM by Larry Harsin
I'd run a cable down to the engine frame to get the best ground. You can probably get an oil filter from NAPA. If not, you can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. You can get an Operator's manual and a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 216.81.222.104 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 01:00:35 PM by Howard Clark
Which of the drain plugs underneath do I need to remove ? And how much oil does it hold ? I already changed the filter (if you recall the earlier question about freezing up), but I really want to solve the problem the first time if possible. Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
Re(1): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.36 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 10:15:59 PM by Larry Harsin
The plug in the bottom of the hydraulic filter drains the hydraulic unit. It holds approx. 5 gal. If the oil looks milky, you should change the oil and the filter again. Larry
Re(2): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 209.224.19.131 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 11:08:39 PM by kevin m.
if it is milky is it water? i have a 1650 that i use the hydrolics for spliting wood it does a great job.
Re(3): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 06:23:57 AM by Larry Harsin
Milky is moisture or air or both. Larry
Re(2): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 216.81.222.1 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 11:31:22 PM by Howard Clark
So then there is no other drain plug I need to pull to get all the oil out of the hydraulic system ? When I had the filter canister off, I got only about 3 gallons of oil, and there is no separate drain plug in the canister on this one, it is a cast aluminum tube/cap/bolt head one piece affair that covered the whole end of the canister, more or less. The oil did not look especially milky today when I drained it, but when I last ran the tractor it was milky, and overflowing from the dip stick hole. This was also when it was not working, and I had no hydraulics. It sounded like the pump was cavitating. I really want to get this right. So I should pull the can back off, and let it all drain out, then put new oil in ? I have not yet run it with the new filter, and it was just dripping a little bit when I put it back together. Thank you for your time, patience, and information Larry !
Re(3): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 06:22:41 AM by Larry Harsin
That is the plug. The ones I have worked on had a 3/8 inch pipe plug in the bottom of the filter. I would go ahead and drain out the oil. There are 3 possibilites: a dirty filter causing the pump to cavitate, which would cause the oil to foam. Improper hydraulic fluid or moisture in the oil, or a combination of all three. When installing new fluid, be certain that it meets the specs that your tractor should have. Do you have an Operator's manual for this tractor? You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City by emailing her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(4): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 216.81.222.17 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 08:15:14 AM by Howard Clark
Thank you ! I am letting it drip until it quits today, since we are going to be so nice and warm for the first of Feruary. This one does not have a pipe plug in the bottom of the filter, I think I will drill and tap it, so it does next time I want to change the filter. There was also a drain plug in the bottom of the pump. So the rear end gears are not in the same reservoir of oil as the hydraulics like on the 966 farmall I used to have ? I will e-mail Mary about an owner's manual today, thanks again !
Re(5): more ? about 1855 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on February 1, 2003 at 08:38:14 PM by Larry Harsin
That's right! The rear end gears are not in the same reservoir of oil as the hydraulics. I don't think I would add any pipe plugs etc until I received the manual. Larry
1755- finally back from the shop
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 05:08:25 AM by Don-WI
Well, yesterday the shop finally brought back my 1755 after having her for a few months. They swapped out the rear end with i believe an 1855. The axle is a little wider so now the hubs are on the outside of the center, instead of the inside like before, but otherwise I can't complain much. Just gotta get my swinging drawbar back and give them what's on it now, just a drawbar being held on by a 1 1/4 inch thick plate underneath w/ 4 bolts. Kinda like to have it swing every now & then. As for my 1600, I posted on YT and hopefully someone can give me a hand. Otherwise maybe the engine shop where I'm gonna have the head rebuilt.
Re(1): 1755- finally back from the shop
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 07:00:56 AM by Larry Harsin
Sounds like things are progressing. Larry
Oliver 1950 transmission
IP: 207.251.196.202 Posted on January 30, 2003 at 08:29:39 PM by Tim Becker
My Oliver 1950 jumps out of gear going down hill only. It does not make a difference what gear it is in. (forwards or reverse) Is this a common problem with this transmission, what should I look for when I open this up? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 1950 transmission
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 06:57:03 AM by Larry Harsin
That is not a common problem. I'm guessing that is loose bearings or gears on the bevel-pinion shaft. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1950 transmission
IP: 208.10.124.47 Posted on January 31, 2003 at 11:48:46 AM by Larry from MD.
One time I had a guy tell me my 1950 was allways comeing out of gear when he went down hill with it.Of course nothing was wrong,the hydro power was in low and the overunning clutch in it was letting the tractor run free.Told him to run it in direct and that solved his trouble.
Power steering pump
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 02:11:15 PM by chris pileski
larry, my 1963 770 needs a power steering pump, do you have any, or know of any sources for these? i've tried a Delco, but they don't quite fit. thanks
Re(1): Power steering pump
IP: 209.163.7.34 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 07:01:33 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1600-burnt valve
IP: 216.56.21.142 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 07:50:56 AM by Don
Larry- I took the head off my 1600 a little while ago and I beleive it was the #3 exhaust valve that was burnt up. Would you happen to have one or know where I could get one? Don-WI
Re(1): 1600-burnt valve
IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 30, 2003 at 08:13:20 AM by Larry Harsin
I checked this morning and I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry