"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - February, 2008 Archives
lift cover
IP: 72.159.2.254 Posted on February 28, 2008 at 11:24:53 AM by craig yeager
what are the steps to take the lift cover off A 550
Re(1): lift cover
IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on February 28, 2008 at 09:00:58 PM by Larry Harsin
Just unbolt it and lift it off. Larry
Re(2): lift cover
IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on February 28, 2008 at 09:21:00 PM by Larry Kruse
I have several suggestions you will find in the service manual. 1. Make sure you drain as much oil as possible. When the pan separates from the casting all remaining oil will leak out onto the floor. 2. I recomment using a hoist or several people. You have to lift and pry to break the adhesion of the gaskets. You need to make sure you do not drop it and ding the metal pan that is between the transmission and the top housing.
1850 hard start
IP: 216.114.121.35 Posted on February 22, 2008 at 05:56:44 AM by Jonathan
My diesel 1850 cranks slow most times. The battery is new, and the starter is a reman someone else put on. The weird thing is if I leave the fuel lever off the tractor cranks normally. Then when I push the lever in the tractor starts normal as well. If I push the lever in before cranking I get a slow crank. Maybe a timing issue? thanks for any help.
Re(1): 1850 hard start
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 22, 2008 at 06:19:14 AM by Larry Harsin
I would check the timing. I would also use the starting procedure that works the best. (like you have discovered.) Larry
1955 tractor
IP: 67.40.249.249 Posted on February 20, 2008 at 10:02:00 PM by e firestone
since i acquired this 1974 model 1955 i have kind of developed an interest in this particular tractor.. why is it that there does not seem to be very many of these tractors laying around.. i have a hard time finding very much info on them anywhere, or reading up on them from people who have them.. there is quite alot about the 2255's etc. but not the 1955.. i have been curious about this for quite some time...thankyou for your time and thoughts on this subject...
Re(1): 1955 tractor
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 20, 2008 at 10:15:21 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know why you don't find much info on the 1955. There were quite a few of them. A lot of them have been retired and parted out. They were well liked, but they were an expensive tractor to repair. They weren't easy to work on, either. Larry
1755 oil leak
IP: 72.51.198.29 Posted on February 18, 2008 at 05:23:11 AM by jeff canada
Larry, My 1755 diesel drains oil out of vent tube sometimes, this is not constant. Tractor starts and runs fine, no smoke or miss. I would think blowby, but is not constant. Could I have drainback issues in block or head. Tractor has sat for most of last ten years. Because of water in oil, liners and rings were rerlaced about 200 hours ago. Thanks,Jeff Canada.
Re(1): 1755 oil leak
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 18, 2008 at 06:09:52 AM by Larry Harsin
I wonder if sometimes your oil level is too high in the crankcase. Larry
1850 fuel gauge
IP: 67.54.182.254 Posted on February 17, 2008 at 04:20:08 PM by Dano
Larry;;; The fuel gauge on my 1850 doesn't work right. When the tractor is running it kind of bounces around..The way it is working or not working I think the gauge is ok but the sending unit is shot. What do you think.. Is there an online source for parts listings??? Any ideas on a part number and or a source??
Re(1): 1850 fuel gauge
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 17, 2008 at 08:44:35 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like the sending unit is bad. You can get one from an AGCO Dealer. I don't know the part number, but they will. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. Larry
super 88 external hydraulic valve
IP: 65.73.221.30 Posted on February 15, 2008 at 07:14:01 PM by Bill White
Hello, I want to use the internal hydraulic pump on my super 88 diesel to power a front end loader. I removed the correct 1/2" plug and was ready to install the 3/8" plug but when I looked in the hole with a flash light there were no threads back in there for the 3/8" plug to screw into. I have the Oliver manual on CD and I'm 100% sure I'm looking in the correct hole. Any ideas?
Re(1): super 88 external hydraulic valve
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 15, 2008 at 10:59:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Apparently you are looking in the incorrect passage. It's the front plug on the left side of the unit. Larry
oil pump gasket
IP: 216.196.227.212 Posted on February 15, 2008 at 01:25:32 PM by gene bustle
i am working on a 39 rc70. my gasket set had no gasket for the plate on the oil pump. i removed the plate to inspect the gears and clean things up as the engine had not ran in 25 years or so. the old gasket seemed to be metallic silver shim like material. what can i use to make new gasket or is one needed, the plate seems to be machined. thanks for your help
Re(1): oil pump gasket
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 15, 2008 at 10:55:42 PM by Larry Harsin
I would assemble without a gasket and try it. If it doesn't bind, it will be o.k. In that case, I would seal it with some silicone. But if a gasket is required, I would make one out of some shim stock. Larry
Clutch shaft play on Super 55
IP: 70.69.81.174 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 07:32:07 AM by Super 55
Larry, I have my Super 55 split and putting in new bearings and seals in the center frame area. With the pto pinion shaft off, the clutch shaft has play, top to bottom and side to side. I realize there isn't much support for the shaft once the pto pinion shaft is removed, but is this normal? If I need to put a new bearing on the end of the clutch shaft this would be the time to do it.
Re(1): Clutch shaft play on Super 55
IP: 4.254.113.172 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 08:05:55 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to use your own judgement, but if it is loose, it is going to leak. Larry
Re(2): Clutch shaft play on Super 55
IP: 70.69.81.174 Posted on February 16, 2008 at 02:05:08 PM by Super 55
Larry, I think the play is normal when the pto pinion shaft and clutch release bearing tube are removed. The long clutch shaft is only held in by a snap ring. I took the clutch shaft out and it appears to be in good shape.
Re(3): Clutch shaft play on Super 55
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 17, 2008 at 06:42:10 AM by Larry Harsin
That sounds o.k. I'm not looking at it and you are. Larry
oliver 88 gas
IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on February 13, 2008 at 11:23:28 AM by jerry
the tractor hasnt ran in a few years,problem now is it doesnt start,turns over just no fire,points are gapped,plugs are good,still has generator,wiring could(30%) use replacing
Re(1): oliver 88 gas
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 13, 2008 at 07:19:03 PM by Larry Harsin
It could be a bad switch or bad points or bad wiring........ You are going to have to use a test light and figure out what is going on. Larry
Re(2): oliver 88 gas
IP: 69.208.13.203 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 12:13:44 PM by t allen
Try jumping from the battery positive to the coil positve to eliminate the ignition wiring. If it starts, there is a problem in the wiring. Larry, please comment if my suggesting is misleading.
Re(3): oliver 88 gas
IP: 4.254.113.172 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 08:08:08 PM by Larry Harsin
No. That would be a good test. Larry
Re(4): oliver 88 gas
IP: 64.12.117.207 Posted on February 24, 2008 at 08:59:28 PM by jerry
now does that take into consideration of positive-ground hook up that the battery is
Re(5): oliver 88 gas
IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on February 27, 2008 at 09:33:39 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't exactly understand what you are asking, but I think the answer is yes. Larry
Re(6): oliver 88 gas
IP: 72.171.0.142 Posted on March 2, 2008 at 04:27:29 PM by Brian
Something to think about is you have a "good" battery right? I had this happen to my 60 before I took it apart to restore and overhaul. I had converted to 12 volts but the battery had a bad cell. It cranked just fine, but usually never started until I released the starter button. A new battery made it start cold like a fully warmed engine.
Rear Axle Housing
IP: 130.101.127.110 Posted on February 11, 2008 at 04:21:49 PM by Rick
Anyone have any idea how to get the bottom bolt out on an Oliver 550 axle housing? It is the bolt for the 3 pt arm. Oval shaped and locked in like crazy. Any special tool made for its removal? Any help would be appreciated.
Re(1): Rear Axle Housing
IP: 207.58.218.42 Posted on February 18, 2008 at 07:30:51 AM by Rick
Welding a nut on worked perfectly. Got it right out. Now, do you have any idea on how to get the actual housing to come off. Tried hitting it a little, sprayed pb blaster on it? Any tricks to it besides old fashioned elbow grease?
Re(2): Rear Axle Housing
IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on February 27, 2008 at 09:38:37 PM by Larry Harsin
If you are trying to move the axle housing with the axle still in it, you will have to remove the snap ring that holds the bull gear on the axle. Then, you can remove the axle housing. You may have to tap on it a bit to get it to move. Larry
Re(1): Rear Axle Housing
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 11, 2008 at 08:39:18 PM by Larry Harsin
You may have to drill into it and use an Easy-out or an extractor to twist it out of there. If there is enough of it sticking out that you could weld a nut on it, then twist it out. Larry
1850 transmission
IP: 64.235.79.211 Posted on February 10, 2008 at 07:31:06 PM by Justin Wagner
I am a young rancher trying to get started and I bought this 1850 Oliver as my first Tractor. Recently I was using it to push snow when it died. I can start the tractor but when I try to let the clutch out it wants to kill the motor. I was wondering what you thought might be the cause. I appreciate your time.
Re(1): 1850 transmission
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 11, 2008 at 08:35:59 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like something in the transmission might have frozen. Have you checked the oil level in the transmission and the drive train? Is it possible that the transmission could be in two gears at the same time? This is a possibility. Larry
Re(2): 1850 transmission
IP: 64.235.79.211 Posted on February 13, 2008 at 04:20:12 PM by Justin Wagner
I checked the oil and it is at the proper level. How Do I check to see if it is two gears at the same time? What all do I need to remove to see into the top of the Transmission? Thanks
Re(3): 1850 transmission
IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on February 13, 2008 at 07:25:12 PM by Larry Harsin
You have to take the lid off of the top of the transmission. Look and see what you can see. You will have to unbolt the foot boards and then remove the cast iron lid on the top front of the transmission. It's just ahead of the hydraulic unit. If it doesn't appear to be in 2 gears at once, then the top cluster on the input shaft is the next thing to examine. You have the clutch pedal down and try to turn things and see what the problem is. Larry
Re(4): 1850 transmission
IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 06:13:56 PM by j.ulmer
Before you pull the top off shift into neutral and with the clutch in start the motor. If it wants to go backward you have the reverse idler gear on the input shaft galled to the shaft (I think) as my 1950 in a Hanc@@k earthmover did that several years ago when the transmission oil pressure wasn't good and oil wasn't going into the lubrication circuit. If that's not it, head into the trans as Larry directed to look for multiple gears meshing.
Re(5): 1850 transmission
IP: 64.235.79.211 Posted on February 16, 2008 at 09:29:45 AM by Justin Wagner
I headed into the transmission. The shift rails were out of sync. I got them lined up. Before I cap the thing, is there any thin else I should check while I am in there? Thanks
Re(6): 1850 transmission
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 17, 2008 at 11:53:26 AM by Larry Harsin
Nothing that I know of. Just make sure the bolts that hold the forks are tight and nothing else is broken. Larry
Re(7): 1850 transmission
IP: 64.235.79.211 Posted on February 17, 2008 at 04:35:03 PM by Justin Wagner
Thanks for your help.I got it put back together and it is running great. Just in time for the next batch of snow!
1966 oliver 1850 diesel
IP: 12.77.184.127 Posted on February 9, 2008 at 09:07:03 PM by Allen from TN
Larry, had injectors rebuilt,engine starts easy runs fairly good but has a knocking sound that comes and goes and is constantly blowing oil out the exhaust like its raining. Whats wrong?
Re(1): 1966 oliver 1850 diesel
IP: 75.104.190.249 Posted on February 9, 2008 at 09:22:11 PM by Larry Harsin
I would remove the exhaust manifold and see which cylinder is the one that is blowing out the oil. This may be why the thing is knocking. This could be a valve problem or an injector problem. Hopefully, this will help you decide what is going on here. Larry
winter oil and fluids
IP: 139.142.75.157 Posted on February 8, 2008 at 08:12:16 PM by Mark K
Hello: I purchased a gas Oliver 1650 with a FEL in August 2007 for my acreage. The oil and hydraulic fluid were both fresh. I believe that the oil in the tractor is 15 weight 40. I live in Saskatchewan and we get very cold winters but I did not change over to winter oil. The tractor does have an oil pan heater (add on) and a factory block heater for cold starts. The tractor is stored outside. My question is what oil should I be using in winter? Should I use synthetic or semi-synthetic in the future? Does the transmission and hydraulics require special winter fluids? A neighbor has told me I should be using winter oil - but my Oliver 1650 DVD says to use 15W - 40 year round. I don't have an owners manual and I am not experienced with tractors. I would appreciate your advice on this matter. Thanks. Mark
Re(1): winter oil and fluids
IP: 4.158.84.67 Posted on February 8, 2008 at 08:51:19 PM by Larry Harsin
For your kind of weather, I would use a 10 - 30 engine oil in the winter, and a light hydraulic fluid. In our area, there is a light non-foaming hydraulic oil available. It is like a 10 weight motor oil. If you use the oil pan heater, I would think that would be sufficient with the oil that you are using. You can get an Operator's Manual from the museum in Charles City IA. Phone: 641-228-1099 Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry
Re(2): winter oil and fluids
IP: 139.142.75.157 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 09:09:10 AM by Mark K
Thanks. Is it OK to switch from conventional to synthetic or semi-synthetic in winter? Or will this cause problems in tractor where conventional oil was always used in the past?
Re(3): winter oil and fluids
IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on February 18, 2008 at 06:15:40 AM by Larry Harsin
I havn't heard of anyone having problems doing this. Larry
1755 light switch positions
IP: 207.103.48.64 Posted on February 8, 2008 at 05:16:33 AM by Steve
Got 1755 over from farm - all wires off light switch. trying to figure out what lights are suppose to be on in what position of switch ? - could you or someone tell me what should be on in position 1 ( ie - field lights - front - rear) position 2 - Road ligts (ie-front -tail - flashers) - I would really appreciate it
Re(1): 1755 light switch positions
IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on February 8, 2008 at 07:54:07 AM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual. All of this is listed in it. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA Phone: 641-228-1099. For switch position "FIELD", the lights illuminated are the panel, the head lights the front flood lights and the rear flood lights. For switch position "ROAD", the lights illuminated are the panel, the head lights, the front flood lights and the tail and warning lights. For switch position "DIM", the lights illuminated are the panel, the front flood lights and the tail and warning lights. Use ROAD position for high beam or "bright" and DIM position for low beam or "dim" when driving on roads or highways at night or during periods of poor visibility. In some areas flashing warning lamp is illegal and must be converted to non-flashing. Larry
1951 Oliver 77 Row Crop
IP: 216.138.160.253 Posted on February 6, 2008 at 12:00:06 PM by Dianna Hopkins
I have a 1951 Oliver Row Crop 77, gas - 6 cyl. which has loss of power & leaking oil around the head. - could I just change the head gasket?
Re(1): 1951 Oliver 77 Row Crop
IP: 4.158.84.144 Posted on February 6, 2008 at 07:24:50 PM by Larry Harsin
Probably changing the head gasket would fix it. The first thing I would check and make sure it isn't a valve cover gasket that is leaking. The serial number could be on the lower left side of the dash or in front of the right brake on the transmission housing. 1951 is about the time they changed the location of it. Larry
Re(1): 1951 Oliver 77 Row Crop
IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on February 8, 2008 at 12:13:36 PM by Larry Kruse
To help determine why you have loss of power, I would do a compression test on each cylinder to make sure each cylinder has compression. Do the first test dry and record results by cylinder. Then squirt some motor oil in each cylinder and do it again. If their is substantial increase in compression, your piston rings are weak. The oliver service manuals will tell what the compression should be.
oliver 1950 & hancock 282
IP: 68.91.143.204 Posted on February 3, 2008 at 12:15:30 PM by zack rendel
my han#### 282 dirt scraper needs a new or good used hi lo for the transmission.its the same tranny and motor as the oliver 1950.does any one kno where i could find one or does any one have one for sale?? please help!!!!
Re(1): oliver 1950 & hancock 282
IP: 69.205.84.81 Posted on February 9, 2008 at 11:25:30 AM by kaz
I have a transmission and 2 speed hydrapower..Not sure which one you Need. Drop me an e-mail
Re(1): oliver 1950 & hancock 282
IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on February 14, 2008 at 06:47:09 PM by j.ulmer
I think you can use any Hydra-Power from multiple models and years.