"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - February, 2009 Archives


1655 Diesel Steering

IP: 68.65.107.36 Posted on February 28, 2009 at 09:48:51 PM by Bob Spyker

I have a 1655D that I have to slowly keep turning the steering wheel a little to the left to keep it going straight - what is the problem?

Re(1): 1655 Diesel Steering

IP: 4.248.219.175 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 12:55:22 PM by larry from md.

Thats a common problem the real fix is to replace the whole unit under the steeringwheel.There are no parts for the old units and they don't stay fixed. Its a job with some expence to replace so most guys wait as long as they can.

Re(2): 1655 Diesel Steering

IP: 75.104.189.105 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 03:45:16 PM by Larry Harsin

There is some internal leakage in the steering hydra motor. If it is something you can put up with, I would put up with it. Otherwise, you will have to replace your hydra-motor. Larry


1655 fuel tank

IP: 68.154.25.13 Posted on February 26, 2009 at 11:32:35 AM by Cleon Couey

1655 diesel is skipping like it's starving for fuel. Changed the fuel filter but still no better. Removed fuel line from tank to check for obstructions and found nothing. Only a dribble of fuel coming out the cut off valve. If I remove the cut off valve from the tank is it just screwed in the bottom of the tank? Or how is it removed?

Re(1): 1655 fuel tank

IP: 75.104.189.105 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 03:42:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is just screwed into the bottom of the tank. Unscrew it out of there to check it. You'll find some foreign material in the neck of the fuel strainer. Larry


1555

IP: 72.173.122.221 Posted on February 23, 2009 at 09:22:37 AM by Steve Miller

I'm looking at a 1555 gas. Any common problems I should look for.

Re(1): 1555

IP: 4.248.218.102 Posted on February 23, 2009 at 04:38:28 PM by larry from md.

One problem is the holly distributors if its still working ok. Parts are hard to come by and lots of people replace the whole unit sort of expensive. The other thing is the transmission is the old slideing gear trans so they shift a little harder than the bigger 50 series.

Re(2): 1555

IP: 75.104.169.237 Posted on February 23, 2009 at 08:43:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Just make sure everything works. Parts availability is o.k. Larry


2255 Power Steering

IP: 24.29.208.15 Posted on February 23, 2009 at 02:40:32 AM by Brian L. Gevry

The hydraulic pump shredded itself while discing. We replaced the pump, drained and replaced the oil, replaced the filter etc. We also repaired a number of leaks and bled the system. The brakes and 3 point pressure up almost immediately, however, the steering takes about 15-20 minuted to pressurize and work. The tractor is a 1973 model, with 3150 Cat FWA and has a cab. Other than the power steering everything work properly. The tractor is all original.

Re(1): 2255 Power Steering

IP: 75.104.169.237 Posted on February 23, 2009 at 06:08:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Something must have gotten into the power steering circuit when the pump destructed. I think I would just use it awhile and see if it comes out of it. If it doesn't, you'll have to tear it down and see what you find. The valve that sends the oil to the power steering might have a burr in it or have gotten roughed up. Larry


1900 question

IP: 68.47.32.40 Posted on February 22, 2009 at 11:11:48 AM by JDH

I was wondering what is the correct seat color is for my 1900A. I've seen 1900's with solid white, white with green trim on the seams and black/white seats. All of the vinyl is gone off of mine, so I don't know what color is correct. Thanks

Re(1): 1900 question

IP: 75.104.169.237 Posted on February 22, 2009 at 06:32:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the A's came with the white with green trim. The seat frame was white also. Larry


Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 66.43.226.100 Posted on February 21, 2009 at 02:21:29 PM by Don

A couple of basic of questions for you: I have an Oliver 77 diesel RC, which by the s/n (DSL 342082c 77D)I think is a 1951 model. Is this correct? I can't find a tag with any engine info on it. What brand engine would it be? Did Oliver use different engines in different years? Is it rated around 50 hp? I'm just starting to do some work on it, so I'll probably have more questions later. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Re(1): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 75.104.169.237 Posted on February 21, 2009 at 03:55:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Your Oliver 77 diesel was built in 1951. The engine is an Oliver/Waukesha. The parts were molded in Charles City and the engine was built in Waukesha WI. Yes, Oliver used different engines at different times. All of the Fleetlines and Supers in the Row Crop Olivers were Oliver/Waukesha engines. The tractor was originally built with 37 belt hp. Most of them have been upgraded to have a little over 40 hp. Larry


1750 over/under

IP: 69.66.231.1 Posted on February 18, 2009 at 08:46:49 PM by Jerry Long

I have a noise in direct/over , can I rebuild this myself or need to send it off.

Re(1): 1750 over/under

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on February 19, 2009 at 05:04:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't attempt to do it myself. Call your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. to see if they can do it. 800-320-6224. Larry


Hydrapower

IP: 64.136.27.225 Posted on February 18, 2009 at 06:11:29 PM by Paul

Has there been anyone that has done any modifications to a three speed, like bronze clutches, or if there is a high horsepower kit that can be bought. I have a 2150 puller and I think it is giving me trouble upshifting when pulling.

Re(1): Hydrapower

IP: 75.104.183.190 Posted on February 19, 2009 at 05:02:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the answer to this. Check with your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Tom will know. Larry

Re(2): Hydrapower

IP: 4.249.108.102 Posted on February 20, 2009 at 01:53:13 PM by larry from md.

If you are running your engine overspeed you may have too much flow for the return from the relief valves. This causes the preasure to rise and shift the unit on its own. Make sure the tube and the holes to it are not plugged. You can do this without removeing the unit.


OLIVER SUPER 55

IP: 148.177.1.213 Posted on February 17, 2009 at 08:26:43 AM by RANDY

I will be trailering one of these babies from Kentucky to Georgia. Was wondering if there are any specifications out there on length, width and weight. I need to know what type of axle rating and the size trailer I will need to haul this thing. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): OLIVER SUPER 55

IP: 4.248.221.106 Posted on February 17, 2009 at 10:58:56 AM by larry from md.

It depends how the wheels are set and how much weight has been added. Mine weighs about 4400 and i haul it on a single axel between the wheels trailer. The trailer has a 6000 pound axel and tires. I use the same when i have the 6 ft. mower on too.

Re(2): OLIVER SUPER 55

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on February 18, 2009 at 07:37:02 PM by Larry K

You should also go to the Department of Transportation website for their regulations at www.dot.gov. They have some requirements for brakes as well as tie down. You will need 4 independent tie down chains or straps in good condition. Some states require brakes on both axles. Some state are cracking down on trailer loads.


770 clutch

IP: 207.199.243.1 Posted on February 16, 2009 at 08:34:21 PM by Grant

The clutch slips sometimes when climbing hills, and it grinds on the way into gears. Do all years of 770s take the same size clutch? I am looking at purchasing a 9.25 in disk and pressure plate and wanted to make sure it would fit. Do you think any other parts would be required to fix this? What way do you recommend replacing the clutch. I have heard that you can split the tractor or pull the engine?

Re(1): 770 clutch

IP: 75.104.189.38 Posted on February 16, 2009 at 11:24:43 PM by Larry Harsin

The 770 came with a 10" clutch. The 9.25" is an Oliver 77 clutch. You may need a throw out bearing or a pilot bearing, but not necessarily. That 770, if it has power booster drive, I recommend pulling the engine, but you will have to remove the long PTO shaft first, from the rear of the tractor. If it doesn't have a power booster, then you can just remove the fuel tank and fold the dash up over the engine and repair it without splitting the tractor or removing the engine. Larry


Motor Swap

IP: 173.110.211.190 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 05:47:48 PM by J B

Will a gas motor out of a 1750 fit into a super 88??

Re(1): Motor Swap

IP: 75.104.189.38 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 06:37:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will bolt right in there. Larry


oil leak

IP: 206.193.244.175 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 01:16:25 PM by Dale H in PA

I just fired up my Oliver 70 after a complete rebuild.I am getting oil from a hole under the distributor drive housing which looks like a breather hole of some kind,since it just has a cotter key loosly hanging in the hole. Any ideas? Thanks Dale

Re(1): oil leak

IP: 75.104.189.38 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 02:53:20 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a seal in there that probably needs to be replaced. That cotter key in that hole is there to let the oil out that leaks out of that seal. You'll have to take it apart and replace that seal and you will probably want to replace the bearing in there while you are there. The bearing is like a little generator bearing. Larry

Re(2): oil leak

IP: 206.193.244.175 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 06:07:11 PM by Dale H in PA

Thanks Larry, I really appreciate your quick response! I just watched the Daytona 500,came over to check this site & bingo there you were!I remember having that all apart,but don't remember a seal.I will take it off tomorrow and check it. Thanks again! Dale H


770 steering problems

IP: 12.53.38.63 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 12:07:19 PM by Gary

I have a 1965 770 with the 50 series power steering. The promlem is that when you try to turn the wheels right or left is that at about 3/4 turn the belt that drives the power steering pump starts to squeal. In addition to that when driving down the road the steering wants to vere one way and when correcting it wants to over correct itself. I have bled the air out of the system. pump does leak a little oil and needs rebuilt but I don't necessarily that think thats my whole problem. What do you think?

Re(1): 770 steering problems

IP: 75.104.189.38 Posted on February 15, 2009 at 02:50:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have a problem in the hydra motor on the bottom of the steering wheel. I think what it could be is a spring that holds the veins in place, has come undone. There are several of those little springs in there that hold the veins against the outside rotor or cam ring. One of them has probably broken or come unhooked. This can be carefully taken apart. There is a big snap ring that holds the unit in the pot. That pot has to be pulled off so that you can get at this problem. You really have nothing to lose because it may not be fixable anyway, but you do have a chance that you can fix it. If you can't fix this, you will have to get another hydra motor. Larry

Re(2): 770 steering problems

IP: 12.53.38.63 Posted on February 16, 2009 at 04:27:02 PM by gary

Thanks larry i will try that. I do have access to a hydra motor off a 1750 would it be the same.

Re(3): 770 steering problems

IP: 75.104.189.38 Posted on February 16, 2009 at 05:17:07 PM by Larry Harsin

The insides of the hydra motor are the same, but the pot is different. You may have to do some switching. Larry


Diesel exhaust manifold

IP: 205.188.116.207 Posted on February 13, 2009 at 10:06:53 AM by dan

Have you ever seen a super series Diesel exhaust manifold without the cast in "Oliver Diesel" on it? I am looking at one that doesnt have it. Maybe it's a replacement? The casting #'s are the same

Re(1): Diesel exhaust manifold

IP: 75.104.191.152 Posted on February 13, 2009 at 06:02:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen a Super without that casting. But that is probably a reproduction or a replacement manifold. If it has the part number on it, it was built by Oliver. Also, they stopped putting that "Oliver Diesel" on there when they were building Cockshutts in the same assembly line (only the paint and decals were different). That way they didn't have to choose on the manifolds. Larry


Leaky Steering columun

IP: 216.249.66.85 Posted on February 11, 2009 at 06:04:36 AM by Ron Hardesty

I have a 1965 Oliver 1850 Diesel tractor. I have a oil leak at the top of the telesopick steering columne. The original steering motor, columne and steering wheel where replaced about 25 years ago with updated motor to fix the steering problem that the original motor's had. My question is what the problem might be and how to tear it down. It appears that there may be a seal at the top of the colume where the telesopic part slides down through it. There appears to be a colar at the top. I do not know iftheis un screws or pulls off. please advise. Also the steering wheel has a button that you push to make it slid in and out instead of the large locking wheel.

Re(1): Leaky Steering columun

IP: 4.249.108.63 Posted on February 11, 2009 at 12:56:06 PM by larry from md.

There is not supposed to be any oil in the steering collum. You need to replace the quad ring and seal in the steering unit under the dash. You do have the new style system and parts can be had.You do not have to disassemble the collum just seperate it from the unit. I remove the hood to do this job.

Re(2): Leaky Steering columun

IP: 75.104.191.152 Posted on February 12, 2009 at 06:12:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done this. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(3): Leaky Steering columun

IP: 4.249.102.220 Posted on February 12, 2009 at 11:11:45 AM by larry from md.

If the unit you have has the small plug with O rings on it replace them also they are prone to leak. Some of those plugs have a check ball and spring behind them, its a good idea to replace the spring while in there. the replacemen unit in my 1650 does not have those parts, but my 1555 does have the plug. The plug is between the center shaft and the return oil hole.


1855 hydraulic filter removal

IP: 162.127.13.5 Posted on February 10, 2009 at 08:04:03 AM by Gordon karney

I have an 1855 and am having trouble getting the hydraulic filter canaster to come off. Is this a common problem? Is it a left hand thread? Every time I put torque on it it seems as if the whole filter housing wants to come off the tractor.

Re(1): 1855 hydraulic filter removal

IP: 75.104.191.152 Posted on February 10, 2009 at 04:31:57 PM by Larry Harsin

That's typical. They can be difficult. It is a right hand thread. Get a big wrench on there and turn it till it comes off. It turns hard. Larry


drain plug location

IP: 69.151.229.24 Posted on February 9, 2009 at 03:09:09 PM by Jimmy Henderson

I have a super 55 and I am changing all of the fluids and I cannot find the location to drain the hydraulic fluid which has the dip stick located behind the seat. Can you tell me the location and what type of fluid.

Re(1): drain plug location

IP: 75.104.191.152 Posted on February 9, 2009 at 10:24:06 PM by Larry Harsin

There is no drain, as such. You have to pump the oil out of the hydraulic system, with the tractor running. This is shown and discussed in your Operator's Manual. You can get a manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Refill with med non-foaming hydraulic fluid. Larry


1850 clutch

IP: 24.245.55.1 Posted on February 5, 2009 at 11:33:08 AM by Mike

The manual says to remove engine if tractor is equipped w/hydrualic gear reduction unit.My question is,can I split tractor and leave engine in frame,remove hydraulic trans ,then bellhousing,clutch etc..???

Re(1): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on February 7, 2009 at 00:30:37 AM by Larry Harsin

The way to do that is to remove the engine with the hydraul attached. Then, I set it on the floor an take the hydraul off and do the clutch job. You do not need to split the tractor. Larry


2055 ,2155

IP: 98.220.6.113 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 07:18:44 PM by scott

Did oliver make 2055, and 2155. If so when were thay made and what do thay look like.

Re(1): 2055 ,2155

IP: 68.220.123.51 Posted on February 5, 2009 at 06:20:59 AM by Cleon Couey

Go to tractordata.com and search Oliver.This will show what models were made and when.Hope this helps.

Re(1): 2055 ,2155

IP: 209.50.18.63 Posted on February 6, 2009 at 11:30:04 PM by B A Star

The 2055 is a Minneapolis Moline G-1050 painted Green and the 2155 is a G-1350 painted green. They were built in the 1970 - 72 peroid. There was also a 1865 which was a G950 MM.


HYDAULICS

IP: 96.25.217.10 Posted on February 3, 2009 at 09:29:26 PM by RICK WILTSHIRE

I GOT A 1750 AND 1850 I PUT A FRONT LOADER ON MY 1750 BUT USED UP BOTH SETS OF HYDROLICS ON THE REAR WANT TO PUT A JOY STICK ON FOR THE LOADER BUT WAS TOLD THERE WAS NOT A HOOK UP ON THE TRACTOR FOR THE HYDROLICS JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THER IS AND WHERE ON THE TRACTOR ARE THE PLUGS

Re(1): HYDRAULICS

IP: 75.104.161.212 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 06:00:39 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a provision so that you can do this. We have discussed this many times in our Archives. There is a power beyond port on the casting, which is the lid for the hydraulic unit. It is directly below the seat frame, on the front, close to the dipstick where you add oil. It is a 1/2" pipe plug pointing forward. This plug has to be removed and inside this hole back approx. 3" is threaded to accept a 3/8" socket head plug. This will cause the oil to come out to feed the control valve. Then, the oil going from the control valve back to the unit, will return where there is a plug that faces the fender. This will be a little way farther back than where you plugged the passage. Larry


550 front pivot pin

IP: 12.213.112.36 Posted on February 3, 2009 at 05:29:29 PM by Dave brandon

Hi larry, On the 550's the pivot pin/hole wears and the front axle cants to the rear resulting in negative caster for the front wheels. A new pin helps a lot but the axle also has much wear. It needs to be rebored and steel bushed. The question is; Is the hole in the axle straight thru and 90 degrees to the axle or does it have a slight angle that produces the caster??? It is pretty common after all these years with a loader on them--kinda the weak point of the tractor ,if there is one?

Re(1): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 75.104.161.212 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 05:52:28 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a slight angle, BUT, the angle is supposedly determined and maintained by the arms that go back from the axle to the clutch housing. When you have these arms attached, I think you will be able to see what the angle should be, but it is only a slight angle. Larry

Re(2): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 69.69.182.85 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 05:46:27 PM by J. Mash

Dave,these axles are factory drilled at 5 degrees from the factory. go back with that angle. I have done this to both of my 550's. I had hard brass put in my tractors,but they do not have loaders on them.Put new grade 8 or 9 bolts in the radius arms. They also help support the axle. You may have to loosen the radius arms a little at the clutch housing to get your new bolts in the radius arms.

Re(3): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 12.213.112.58 Posted on February 8, 2009 at 01:10:22 PM by Dave Brandon

Thanks for the information. I already bored and bushed the axle to 1 1/2 degrees before your response. Can only make it better as it had about 7 degrees of negative angle worn into it. Next time I do one I will sure go a little steeper on the angle. You are the FIRST one to give me any kind of figure for the angle. 550 was one of the best tractors oliver ever made. Dave

Re(4): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 69.69.182.85 Posted on February 12, 2009 at 09:32:57 PM by J. Mash

Dave, at 1 1/2 degrees your radius arms probably wont line up. They help support the front axle as negative camber begins to wear into the tractor. they are very important on a loader tractor. If they are not right,you chance breaking the front frame or axle.Especially if you dont have the heavy duty non adjustable axle. Look at the way your old radius arm bolts are worn,and you will see what im talking about.Hollar if you need,glad to help.

Re(5): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 12.213.112.36 Posted on February 14, 2009 at 03:45:23 PM by Dave Brandon

I guess where we need to start is "caster" positive and negative. I am calling positive caster when the spindle leads the point of contact of the tire with the ground. Therefore when you look at the spindle from the top the spindle will slope slightly forward. Always when they are worn from hard use and many hours the spindle will slope to the rear. That was the case with this tractor--slopeing more than a little to the rear. We rebored the axle[then bushed] so the spindle would lead the tire contact, but the radius arms were still 5 inches below the socket holes.I reversed the radius arms[wrong way by the book] side to side and they are now 2 inches above the socket holes. Forceing them down would intensify the lead of the spindle while the other position would force the spindles into the rearward sloping spindle. What am I not seeing?? Thanks

Re(6): 550 front pivot pin

IP: 69.69.182.85 Posted on February 14, 2009 at 10:30:34 PM by J. Mash

If it does not bind up to bad when the axle articulates it should be okay. Keep a close check on your lock bolt that holds your pivot pin. It might break the tip off of that bolt and you wont know it until your pin works its way out. Ive had this happen but caught it in time. Good luck.


880 Oliver

IP: 71.7.66.161 Posted on February 3, 2009 at 04:34:34 PM by Randy

Can you disengage the "hillholder" in the power booster clutch? It seems to be stuck in the High side, any suggestions to keep from pulling motor to fix it?

Re(1): 880 Oliver

IP: 75.104.161.212 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 05:48:24 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the Direct Drive clutch must have something wrong. You may be able to correct that without having to pull the engine. You'll have to remove the tin cover so that you can see what the problem is and go from there. Larry


1959 Oliver 550 Pwr Steering

IP: 69.29.246.59 Posted on February 3, 2009 at 10:34:53 AM by Virgil Leach

A few years back an individual was surveying if there was a market for after market power steering for the 550. Have you heard any thing or do you know if it is possible to purchase such an item? thanks VP

Re(1): 1959 Oliver 550 Pwr Steering

IP: 75.104.161.212 Posted on February 4, 2009 at 05:45:08 AM by Larry Harsin

There is Jackson Power Steering in Jetmore KS. Phone: 620-357-6546 Website: www.jacksonpowersteering.com Larry


manual for 1750

IP: 67.221.197.82 Posted on February 1, 2009 at 04:24:43 PM by Wes Q

I just bought an 1968 Oliver 1750. It needs TLC. I have never had an Oliver before. The guy I bought it from didn,t know any thing about tractors. I need a operators manual and or a service manual. What would you suggest.

Re(1): manual for 1750

IP: 75.104.190.87 Posted on February 1, 2009 at 10:05:43 PM by Larry Harsin

You should definitely have an Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. You may not need all three manuals, that is up to you. Larry


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