Oliver 77 block number vs. 88 block number

IP: 174.42.225.79 Posted on February 27, 2010 at 05:25:28 PM by seth

Hi-would you be able to tell me the difference between an 88 engine block number and a 77 block number? (Gas). Where are these numbers located? I found the #190320 and K100C on the 88 and was wondering what the numbers would be on a 77. Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 77 block number vs. 88 block number

IP: 99.194.196.112 Posted on February 27, 2010 at 08:55:36 PM by oleblu

All the 77 blocks should have an M instead of the K.

Re(2): Oliver 77 block number vs. 88 block number

IP: 75.105.50.250 Posted on February 28, 2010 at 12:06:43 PM by Larry Harsin

The 77 would be M100 and the 6 digit Waukesha number begins with 18. Larry

770 valve adj procedure

IP: 207.200.116.11 Posted on February 27, 2010 at 03:21:20 PM by mark schleicher

Great website. Can anyone tell me the valve adjustment procedure for a 1955 770 gas? The manual only tells me the clearances and how to find TDC. Thanks

Re(1): 770 valve adj procedure

IP: 75.105.50.250 Posted on February 28, 2010 at 12:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Find TDC number 1 first. To do this, watch number 6 cylinder as you are turning the engine. When the exhaust valve closes and the intake just begins to emerge, this is TDC number 1 cylinder. You will find the TDC pointer at this point. Then, adjust number 1 cylinder. Then, simply turn the engine 1/3 of a turn, set it and proceed turning it 1/3 at a time. Larry

oliver super 66

IP: 76.178.247.165 Posted on February 26, 2010 at 02:15:18 PM by Ron Grother

Bought a super 66 in Ontario Canada, to me, the tractor is orange except for the motor. As I have been cleaning it, it seems it has never been repainted, is it possible that it came from the factory this color? It looks like there are parts that have been painted orange before it was assembled, which lead me to believe it was orange from the factory.

Re(1): oliver super 66

IP: 75.104.190.87 Posted on February 27, 2010 at 07:20:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to say about that. There are several possibilities. I don't believe that Oliver was building ####shutt tractors at that time, so if it is an Oliver Super 66, could it have been painted orange for a highway maintenance crew or something. I believe at that time, Cockshutt was building their own tractors, which were red, but not a Super 66. Larry

tractor does not want to move in reverse

IP: 74.47.115.2 Posted on February 24, 2010 at 02:42:23 PM by elmer yale

1750 oliver.when I put it in reverse it has a rubing noise like a bad bearing.I did jack up the back of the tractor with tires off of ground and put it in reverse and put the right brake on,the left side works good.it only makes noise on the right side.all front gears are good.what do you think is the problem.thank you

Re(1): tractor does not want to move in reverse

IP: 75.104.161.35 Posted on February 25, 2010 at 06:05:13 AM by Larry Harsin

From your description, it sounds like there may be a problem in the differential area. Larry

1650 servo valve

IP: 69.95.239.240 Posted on February 24, 2010 at 01:42:40 PM by willy disher

need to replace the spring in the servo valve, can you give an explanation as to how? thanks in advance

Re(1): 1650 servo valve

IP: 75.104.161.35 Posted on February 25, 2010 at 06:03:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the servo valve out to do it. I think you will see how to remove it when you get started. Larry

Oliver Fuel Tank Fenders

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on February 23, 2010 at 08:01:06 PM by Ross

Hello- I am thinking about putting fuel tank fenders on my 1855. My question is this: My tractor has the square glass fuel filter and no lift pump. Do I need a lift pump to use the Tank Fenders or will the vaccuum/gravity transfer the fuel? I have looked at several 17/18/1955's and it seems that they only have the lift pump if they have the older style round filters, and I have seen the fender set up with and without the pump. Thanks for you help!

Re(1): Oliver Fuel Tank Fenders

IP: 75.104.183.221 Posted on February 24, 2010 at 06:17:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try it without the transfer pump. I think it will work out o.k. If it doesn't, you'll have to get a transfer pump. Larry

1650 PTO Will not dissengage

IP: 70.129.120.126 Posted on February 22, 2010 at 11:16:31 PM by Aaron

I just purchaced a 1650 and am not able to get the PTO to disengage this is my first tractor that I have owned. So any help would be great thanks.

Re(1): 1650 PTO Will not dissengage

IP: 75.104.183.221 Posted on February 24, 2010 at 06:14:59 AM by Larry Harsin

It may need adjustment or it may be a problem with warped clutch plates. This clutch does run in oil and tends to want to keep turning, especially when the oil is cold. You need to get an Operator's Manual You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

1555 Distributor

IP: 164.154.16.21 Posted on February 22, 2010 at 05:14:10 AM by Jim

Larry, I have a 1555 gas and am having trouble with the distributor turning in the block. What would cause it to lock up and turn even though the clamps are tight?

Re(1): 1555 Distributor

IP: 75.104.183.221 Posted on February 24, 2010 at 06:12:25 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to take the distributor apart and clean it and oil it, if it isn't already ruined. If it is ruined, you'll have to replace it. Larry

Valve settings

IP: 75.221.44.11 Posted on February 20, 2010 at 02:39:02 PM by Stan Shepard

For a 77 Oliver engine mould # 185220 M-100. What would the valve settings be, and should they be set hot or cold?

Re(1): Valve settings

IP: 75.104.182.10 Posted on February 21, 2010 at 06:08:07 AM by Larry Harsin

10 intake and 18 exhaust when the engine is cold (60 - 70 degrees- room temp). Larry

hydra power oil

IP: 4.245.15.155 Posted on February 19, 2010 at 05:10:40 PM by Gengler

Larry,i cant find type A transmission fluid anymore. What should i use? Thank you!

Re(1): hydra power oil

IP: 75.104.168.128 Posted on February 20, 2010 at 06:31:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Type A was replaced by Mercon. Mercon works in place of all the other old recommendations. Larry

distributor tach gear

IP: 12.213.112.36 Posted on February 19, 2010 at 12:55:01 PM by Vern

Larry, I have a super 88 with a delco-remy dist. # 1111702, it doesn't have the gear to drive a tach. Can a gear be purchased for this distributor or will I need a different unit? Thanks for your help>

Re(1): distributor tach gear

IP: 75.104.168.128 Posted on February 20, 2010 at 06:29:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You can buy the gear. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 1250 loader

IP: 74.219.237.254 Posted on February 18, 2010 at 06:56:00 PM by jason dumford

Will a loader of a 1250 oliver fit a 1550 oliver?

Re(1): Oliver 1250 loader

IP: 75.104.168.140 Posted on February 19, 2010 at 04:49:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm sure it won't. Larry

carbon on pistons

IP: 98.80.149.117 Posted on February 17, 2010 at 11:21:02 PM by Cleon Couey

I removed the head from my 1655 diesel trying to locate the reason for water in the oil. I noticed that the pistons have a lot of loose carbon on top of them.Last year the head was rebuilt and there was only a light coating of carbon on the pistons.The engine has never been rebuilt but looks like it's where I'm headed. What could be causing this carbon build up?

Re(1): carbon on pistons

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on February 18, 2010 at 05:18:12 AM by Larry Harsin

You are thinking right. The engine is probably getting ready for an over haul and not burning the fuel correctly. You'll probably have to do an over haul. Larry

SUPER 88

IP: 66.208.121.161 Posted on February 16, 2010 at 03:40:17 PM by MIKE

WILL THE GEMMER POWER STEERING BOX OUT OF MY SUPER 88 DIESEL SINGLE FRONT WHEEL FIT ON AN OLIVER 1800 . THEY LOOK THE SAME . THANKS --MIKE

Re(1): SUPER 88

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on February 17, 2010 at 05:59:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. Larry

1365 Oliver Steering

IP: 76.100.138.194 Posted on February 14, 2010 at 07:15:37 AM by Dave Remsburg

I have a 1365 that I have a hard time steering. The steering wheel turns a full turn left and right before controling the stering. Also the power steering is not working. I believe the power steering and the hydrulics are all the same oil. Where is the pump located the moves the oil to the cylinder on the power steering? Where is the hydrulics filter located? When I unhook a oil line to the cylinder the steering wheel does turn better but I am undecided if it is the cylinder or the oil, or the pump. Can anyone offer a suggestion.

Re(1): 1365 Oliver Steering

IP: 75.104.169.139 Posted on February 15, 2010 at 05:43:19 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing you need to do is get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual for that tractor. You can get them from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 Email: fchs@fiai.net They will answer many of these questions. You may have a bad bearing in your steering box or you may have worn linkage or something broken in the steering box. These manuals will help you check this out. If you need steering parts, one place you might get them is Rick's Agri Parts 330-466-2164. This tractor was built in Italy for Oliver, by Fiat. Not everyone will have parts for it. Larry

12 volt alternator

IP: 70.16.85.153 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 04:08:22 PM by Aaron Patterson

I enjoy checking your website out lots of good stuff. I am going to a 12 volt alternator on my 88 row crop. What alternator should I use? I want my panels to close and not hit. Also how should I wire it?

Re(1): 12 volt alternator

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 08:13:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Some of these alternators are so big that you can't get your side panels closed. I would try to get one off of something smaller - I don't know what. I don't have anything that would work for you. Some of these new alternators off of these foreign cars are smaller. Then, if you get one, you'll have to get the instructions for installation with it. I usually put them together with generators - then I can get the panels closed. Larry

Re(2): 12 volt alternator

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on February 13, 2010 at 04:00:23 AM by Don

I would get a nippendenso off a newer GM product or similar. I think they started using them in the 90's sometime. I put one under a farmall H with no problem before.

770 steering Pitman Shaft

IP: 67.239.154.108 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 11:50:31 AM by Gary Welschmeyer

Larry I got the new pitman arm and the the pitman shaft from O Brien county however the new shaft was 3/8 " shorter. I was concerened about that but Jason at O Brien said it would work. After putting it back together and tightening the bolt into the shaft to 200 ft. lbs as the serviced manual said I was unable to turn the wheels. After futher investigation I found that the the pinion gear was tightened against the steering cylinder housing. Do I need to put a washer or shim of some type on that bolt inside the pinion gear to shim it up. Any ideas? Thanks Gary

Re(1): 770 steering Pitman Shaft

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 08:10:05 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't think so. Call back to O'Brien Co, and talk to them about that, 800-320-6224 Larry

oliver 70

IP: 216.222.232.218 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 05:49:00 PM by Jason

Will a 265 waukesha block fit in a oliver 70 with out modifing the sheetmetel?

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 05:16:49 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It won't fit. Larry

Oliver 1450

IP: 63.131.51.160 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 11:01:20 AM by John

While plowing snow, after shifting from forward to reverse, the tractor won't move. It seems like the brakes or rear-end are locked up. Slightly lurches then stalls the engine when clutch is let out. Can't budge it when pulled in neutral with my pick-up truck. Any ideas?

Re(1): Oliver 1450

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 05:15:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The transmission may be in 2 gears at the same time. I would check the shift mechanism. Is the oil level up in the transmission? If not, maybe you have a bearing seized or something. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1450

IP: 63.131.51.160 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 11:34:07 AM by John

Thanks much, Not sure if I'm using the proper terminology, but rather than call everything a "thing-a-ma-bob"...I will take the triangular cover that holds the "shifter" down off tonight and see what I can see. I've had the "shifter" get wedged between the two "rods" that are on the top of the tranny before, but this is a first for this problem.

Re(3): Oliver 1450

IP: 98.236.10.141 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 08:43:04 PM by John

My mechanic beat me to my house. He took the cover plate off the shift lever and said the shift rods are moving freely and everything appears okay in the tranny. I suspected the brakes may have hung up...but he said they seem free. He jacked the rear end of the tractor up and found that both whhels are locked up. They just wiggle a little. I told him that when I bought the tractor 10 to 15 years ago the rear differential lock pedal was frozen. Over the years, I sprayed it with penetrating lubricant once in a while. After this problem occurred, I noticed for the first time that the pedal moves now. Is it possible that I caused something to bind up by inadvertantly locking the rear differentials and plowing snow with a lot of turning and reversing with the rears locked? Is it possible that after the differential lock not being used for 15 years that something is frozen in place that should not be? Last question...would it be wise to remove the hydraulics and top cover from the tranny to examine the rear part of the tranny for problems with the differential lock assembly?

Re(4): Oliver 1450

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 13, 2010 at 04:49:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Well, your mechanic says the transmission looks o.k., so you are going to have to look further. I don't know. Your mechanic is "the man on scene". Larry

Re(5): Oliver 1450

IP: 98.236.10.141 Posted on February 13, 2010 at 08:10:31 AM by John

My mechanic is a friend who is a heavy construction equipment mechanic and volunteered to take a look at my tractor. He is admittedly in the dark on my tractor. I was hoping for your expert opinion before I do something stupid. I am going to try and get her running today and try alternately braking side to side while under load forward to see if I can free things up. I guess my next step is to take the top off the tranny to see what I can see.

Re(5): Oliver 1450

IP: 4.248.216.96 Posted on February 13, 2010 at 10:44:27 AM by Larry from MD

If the differential lock is on you need to jack both wheels to see if they turn. If you were doing lots of turning while working i doubt thats whats wrong. Most likely a shift fork has broken, so even though the rails are moving the gears are still engaged in 2 gears at once. It happened to me pushing snow. The brake return springs can lock things up too, but usually only one side at a time.

Re(6): Oliver 1450

IP: 98.236.10.141 Posted on February 13, 2010 at 09:04:26 PM by John

I don't know much about transmissions...is it possible that it is in two gears at the same time and I am still able to shift into neutral, all forward and reverse gears in both ranges? The tractor tries to move when I pop the clutch in any of the gears...it actually moves about an inch forward, tries but won't budge in reverse. Today I was slipping the clutch in forward and reverse while hitting the brake pedals altenately right then left trying to make sure the rear differential is not locked up...nothing changed. Any and all advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Re(7): Oliver 1450

IP: 74.195.86.169 Posted on February 14, 2010 at 10:23:47 AM by J.Ulmer

Several years ago I had a Hancock Scraper (which was powered by a 1900 Industrial power pack) which did similar to your description. IF the design of the two is similar where Mr. Harsin directed me was to an idler used for reverse gallded to the input shaft. I could go backward with transmission in neutral, but any other gear resulted in lockdown. The shift linkages and other gears all were free, but lack of lubrication from the pump through the oil passages in the shafts left that dry gear to seize. You might have a similar opposing directional problem if it is not two gears locked together. Good Luck. J. Ulmer

Re(8): Oliver 1450

IP: 4.248.219.112 Posted on February 14, 2010 at 10:26:47 AM by Larry from MD

Well sort of if a shift fork is broken the piece can be jammed anywhere in there. If you can shift to neutral and let out the clutch with out stalling the engine i would look at the brakes again. Most of the diferantial locks i have seen have a spring to return to normal. If thats broke it could be stuck in lock and one brake exploded jaming everything.One diferantial lock we mess with you had to take it out and work it till the rear got warm before the the lock would free its self.

Re(9): Oliver 1450

IP: 98.236.10.141 Posted on February 26, 2010 at 10:19:02 PM by john

Well, I hope you all still check older posts because I finally got my tractor dragged into my garage and pulled the hydraulic unit off of the transmission and took the top cover off of the tranny. It looks like due to a bonehead letting the oil get too low, the "tapered roller bearing" on the back of the "final drive shaft and bevel pinion" is bad. It looks like pieces of the cage are broken off and jammed around the rollers. Looking at my service manual, it looks like the final drives must come off, lift out the differential carrier assemble, then pull the final drive shaft and bearings. Does this nightmare sound about right? Does anyone know if those bearings are available? Thanks for all your ideas so far...your continued help is greatly appreciated. Larry Harsin, you hit the nail on the head with your first reply...I was hoping you were wrong so I could have an easy fix. Thanks much.

Re(10): Oliver 1450

IP: 75.104.182.196 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 07:26:30 AM by Larry Harsin

You're welcome. We all just try to help if we can, Glad you got it fixed. Larry

Three point hitch

IP: 24.44.164.158 Posted on February 10, 2010 at 08:07:02 PM by chris

i forgot to ask you if there is any way you could hook me up with a parts diagram of a factory fleetline three point hitch? A picture, or something? i am going to attempt to fabricate most of the parts and i need a reference

Re(1): Three point hitch

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 06:35:09 AM by Larry Harsin

If you would contact the Museum in Charles City, they will copy this for you, I think. There will probably be a small charge. 641-228-1099 Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): Three point hitch

IP: 24.44.164.158 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 08:25:09 AM by chris

Just out of curiosity would Cockshutt threepoint parts work ?

Re(3): Three point hitch

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 05:11:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Some of the Cockshutt things were made at Charles City and some weren't. I rather doubt if they would work. Larry

Clutch chatter

IP: 24.44.164.158 Posted on February 10, 2010 at 08:01:58 PM by chris

hey larry, me again whats up with the clutch on my 77 it chatters when the pedal is pushed in, throw out bearing??

Re(1): Clutch chatter

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 06:31:38 AM by Larry Harsin

The lever that pushes the throw out bearing may be coming in contact with the pressure plate. Larry

Re(2): Clutch chatter

IP: 24.44.164.158 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 08:17:34 AM by chris

so how would i fix this problem, it only does it sometimes, but more than i like to hear.

Re(3): Clutch chatter

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 12, 2010 at 05:09:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I would shorten the rod that pushes into the clutch housing. Just shorten it a bit so that the clutch still releases properly. Otherwise, you'll have to take it apart and readjust the fingers on the pressure plate, Larry

gas to diesel conversion

IP: 24.44.164.158 Posted on February 10, 2010 at 07:57:21 PM by chris

Hey larry, awhile back you helped me understand the hydraulics on my 77 row crop, now i have hydraulics! i wanted to ask you if it was possible/ cost effective to convert the gas waukasha into a diesel? ive heard that the diesel block was used to build the gas engine, if so what is the estimated cost if i go with used parts, im on a budget

Re(1): gas to diesel conversion

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 06:29:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it would be cost effective to take a gas engine and make a diesel out of it. I would look for a diesel engine, buy it and go from there. I may have one available shortly. Give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 66 Engine Block Question

IP: 67.252.117.174 Posted on February 10, 2010 at 04:58:58 PM by Chuck

Are the gas and diesel blocks the same, or are they too different to interchange. I have access to a 66 Diesel with a cracked block, and I found a gas block available locally. Thank you

Re(1): Oliver 66 Engine Block Question

IP: 75.105.51.151 Posted on February 11, 2010 at 06:27:14 AM by Larry Harsin

They probably will interchange. Check the casting numbers on the left rear corner above where the starter mounts. They should have the same number to be assured that they will work. Larry

1750 hydraulic control lever

IP: 32.178.192.87 Posted on February 8, 2010 at 03:17:15 PM by Brian

The outside lever seems to slip some before it catches. I don't know if it can be tightened up externally or is it inside.The inside lever is fine.Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 1750 hydraulic control lever

IP: 4.248.220.126 Posted on February 8, 2010 at 05:07:59 PM by Larry from MD

The internal fork thing is slipping on the shaft. Take the top cover off to get to it. Sometimes you can relace the washer that acts as the key and help it. Sometimes the keyway is worn too big and you need to pull the whole shaft to rebuild or replace. This is a common problem.

Re(2): 1750 hydraulic control lever

IP: 75.104.183.44 Posted on February 9, 2010 at 07:09:33 AM by Larry Harsin

The problem is usually inside. Typically there is a small little key that gets broken. It is where the fork is attached to the lever shaft. You have to remove the lid off of the hydraulic before you can replace the key. It isn't necessary to pull the whole shaft out. You remove the lid on the hydraulic. Then, you will see the fork that goes on the shaft. That is where the slippage is because that washer like key is broken. Larry

77 oliver

IP: 71.1.105.11 Posted on February 7, 2010 at 02:28:52 PM by Glenn Rackers

Larry; I have two questions. First My 1952 oliver with disk brakes is leaking oil at the right brake housing. I order a seal and started to take it apart. I noticed the brake housing was loose when I started to take the cover off. I found out that two of the studs in the rear housing of the tractor (course threads 7/16 threads have been stripped out. How do I make new stud stay tight. Question #2. The pipe that screw in the bottom of the hydralic unit leaks. This is the pipe where you hook the hose too to connect to the cylinder.

Re(1): 77 oliver

IP: 75.104.189.20 Posted on February 7, 2010 at 04:04:21 PM by Larry Harsin

1. Try a new stud and if it won't stay tight, then you will have to drill it and put in helical. 2. Take the pipe out and put thread tape on it and put it back in. Larry

1600 hydraulics

IP: 208.126.57.3 Posted on February 7, 2010 at 09:46:36 AM by Terry Hauge

can the 2 "plugs" on the back of the tractor below the seat be used to add a valve? I may get a snow blower and need a valve to turn the chute..

Re(1): 1600 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.189.20 Posted on February 7, 2010 at 04:01:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. If you have an Operator's Manual, it shows you very plainly how to do this. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

550 steering

IP: 75.60.217.166 Posted on February 6, 2010 at 05:56:50 PM by Greg

While plowing snow, I ran into a small drift causing both front tires to toe outward. I jack up the front end truned the steering wheel, and only one wheel would turn with the steering wheel. The other stayed locked in the outward position. I could push the locked wheel straight, and make small truning motions with the steering wheel, but if I turn the wheel too far, or hit something like snow the front wheel gets pushed all the way out again and will not return. This is a standard steering tractor. What could be the problem?

Re(1): 550 steering

IP: 75.104.189.20 Posted on February 7, 2010 at 07:52:45 AM by Larry Harsin

There's either splines stripped on the steering arm or possibly something is broken inside the steering box. Take it apart and see what you find. If you find what part is damaged or broken, you can get parts from Kent Gordon in Palestine TX 903-729-8349. Larry

Super 55 hyd

IP: 69.54.120.11 Posted on February 4, 2010 at 02:26:11 PM by Ryan

Is it possible to add a hyd remote to a super 55 that has none.

Re(1): Super 55 hyd

IP: 75.104.182.169 Posted on February 4, 2010 at 10:50:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. If you can find one. They are hard to find. You can check with Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349. Larry

bleeding fuel

IP: 207.7.165.187 Posted on February 3, 2010 at 05:05:25 PM by elmer yale

my fuel tank blocked up when i was using my tractor and the injection system and fuel filter was cleaned out of fuel.I cleaned the tank and checked all the lines.my problem is i can,t get fuel to the injectors.I have fuel to the fuel filter.this is a 2255 with a 3150.I did try bleeding the system four times

Re(1): bleeding fuel

IP: 75.104.182.169 Posted on February 4, 2010 at 06:31:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Try it with the fuel tank cap left loose and see if that makes a difference. Sometimes those are closed to tight. Larry

Re(2): bleeding fuel

IP: 4.248.221.154 Posted on February 4, 2010 at 10:43:28 AM by Larry from MD

If you have the square fuel filters they sometimes will not go back to working after they are run dry. An electric fuel pump can sometimes push the fuel through, but often you have to replace them to get fuel to flow.

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