Oliver 1800 A

IP: 208.69.162.16 Posted on February 28, 2012 at 10:02:59 PM by Ross R.

I have an 1800 A, but it has the later style square aluminum carb. It is a very late A series tractor. Did they possibly make some this way? I figured maybe it got switched at some point. I need a head gasket and need to figure out which block I have. How can I tell whether its a 283 or 310? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1800 A

IP: 75.105.61.57 Posted on February 29, 2012 at 07:58:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you can safely assume it is a 283 engine. There should be some numbers on the old head gasket. I would take the old head gasket with me when I go to get the new one. Then, they can compare them. Larry

Oliver 1650

IP: 75.207.234.45 Posted on February 28, 2012 at 01:18:48 PM by Carl

My Oliver 1650 gear shifter likes to jam the gear slides the gear shifter goes into or lock in between. I have to pull the gear shifter and realign them. This happens quite often, will a new gear shifter fix this? Can I weld on the bottom of the gear shifter to help with this problem? I do know the synchros on my 5/6th gear are bad.

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 75.105.61.57 Posted on February 29, 2012 at 07:55:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the problem is your synchros. Also, you could have loose bearings on the input shaft, too. Larry

HydraPower

IP: 99.46.129.71 Posted on February 28, 2012 at 11:16:25 AM by Tom

HydraPower unit calls for type A fluid. what type do we use in it now that A is not available?

Re(1): HydraPower

IP: 75.105.61.57 Posted on February 29, 2012 at 07:53:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Dexron - Mercron works. Larry

70 suds/foam in antifreeze

IP: 139.55.51.70 Posted on February 27, 2012 at 11:02:11 AM by Lee

I bought a 1946 Oliver 70 a few weeks ago. When I first brought it home, after a good run down the road, it started foaming in the radiator. It had white suds or foam blowing out of the radiator over flow. I tore the engine down and replaced the headgasket. After putting it back together, I flushed the cooling system once with radiator flush and 6 or 8 times with fresh water. The water looked brown/dirty when it comes out. With only fresh water in it, it doesn't foam up at all, everything looked normal. After I drained it again and added a 50/50 mix of antifreeze, the suds/foam is back again. I am not getting any water into the oil at all and it doesn't overheat. Any ideas or sugestions on what to do next?

Re(1): 70 suds/foam in antifreeze

IP: 75.105.61.57 Posted on February 29, 2012 at 07:52:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I would talk to the anti-freeze retailer about adding a non-foaming additive to that system. Larry

Re(2): 70 suds/foam in antifreeze

IP: 216.51.160.168 Posted on March 3, 2012 at 08:03:40 PM by Gary L

I have the same problem with my 70. I rebuilt the head and had the radiator checked out, nothing helped. I don't use the tractor in cold weather, so last spring I put in straight water with a rust inhibiotor. I still had a little foaming but not enough to run out the overflow. In the fall when I was done with the tractor I drained the system in to a bucket and stored it in my basement till any problem with freezing is over. Gary

1550 clutch slipping

IP: 99.88.44.10 Posted on February 23, 2012 at 03:28:02 PM by rick

bought a 1969 1550 with a front loader. everything worked good except the brakes when i bought it. replaced the brakes with new acitaters, pads, springs, balls. replaced 1 seal on the brake housing to try to stop the leaking fluid from getting to the new brake pads. fluid stillleaking. guess need to pull back apart and reinstall 2 new seals. which way does the fluid cup go in? the clutch has stopped working, when i release it the tractor acts like it wants to move, but will not. either the clutch is slipping or needs adjusting, is there a way to adjust the clutch rod ? do i need to take the motor and trans out to repair / replace the clutch parts?

Re(1): 1550 clutch slipping

IP: 67.142.181.21 Posted on February 23, 2012 at 04:34:41 PM by Larry from MD

Sounds like the clutch center broke out you will need to remove the engine and hydropower so you can get to the clutch.

Re(2): 1550 clutch slipping

IP: 75.104.182.29 Posted on February 24, 2012 at 08:50:51 AM by Larry Harsin

The cup goes in there with the wide part out. You need to get an Operator's Manual to adjust the clutch. It should have about 1 1/2 inches of free travel. Larry

hydraulic oil.

IP: 216.118.140.26 Posted on February 21, 2012 at 07:38:45 AM by ronnie

hi can you tell me where the filler plug is for the hyd. oil? I think the tractor is a 1953 55 series, but not sure, how can I tell. there is no id. plate anywhere. thank you for your time, Ronnie.

Re(1): hydraulic oil.

IP: 75.104.182.29 Posted on February 24, 2012 at 08:40:53 AM by Larry Harsin

The filler is on the left side of the seat. It has a screw type lid. You need to get an Operator's Manual for this tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Larry

1949 rc 88 gas

IP: 207.190.182.147 Posted on February 21, 2012 at 06:55:32 AM by randy

Larry, By following the repair manual, I can pull the pto drive shaft out about halfway or so and it stops. Does the clutch end spline need to line up and pass thru another spline as it is pulled out ? thanks Randy

Re(1): 1949 rc 88 gas

IP: 75.104.182.29 Posted on February 24, 2012 at 08:39:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The clutch spline has to come through the hydraulic pump. There are 2 sets of splines you have to line up. Larry

Super 88 clutch size

IP: 199.158.10.58 Posted on February 17, 2012 at 01:33:06 PM by Jeff

I have heard that some Super 88s have 10" clutches, and some have 11". Is there a way to find out what size I have so I can order the parts before I start the work?

Re(1): Super 88 clutch size

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:25:14 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a S88, it was built with an 11" clutch. Larry

axle bearing preload

IP: 24.63.165.125 Posted on February 16, 2012 at 04:37:18 PM by dan

How do you prefer to set the axle bearing preload on a S88 specifically? my I&t says to take all the endplay out and then go just a bit more, and I read in my 1855 factory manual they show using a spring scale on the bull gear to determine drag on the bearing.

Re(1): axle bearing preload

IP: 76.208.22.148 Posted on February 16, 2012 at 06:36:01 PM by 90%ret'd

"A little bit more" would not be be the same for different persons, I would suggest using a scale to set them at about 2/3'ds of the 1855 spec rather than a guess. I don't have a Fleetline manual, hope some one who does will chime in with the correct in/lbs pull.

Re(2): axle bearing preload

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:24:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the play out, but don't make it tight. Justmake is so it isn't loose, just get the slack out. Larry

oliver 1655 timing and valve lash

IP: 74.235.14.83 Posted on February 15, 2012 at 08:48:10 PM by Trey Parker

what should i set my 1655 timing to? 4 degrees btdc or tdc? and what is the valve lash supposed to be? thanks.

Re(1): oliver 1655 timing and valve lash

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:22:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I would set it closer to TDC. If the engine runs o.k. leave it there, if you have to advance it, don't go beyond 4 degrees before TDC. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1655 timing and valve lash

IP: 174.252.179.157 Posted on February 21, 2012 at 12:44:50 PM by trey parker

Thanks. And do you know what the valve lash is?

Re(3): oliver 1655 timing and valve lash

IP: 75.104.182.29 Posted on February 24, 2012 at 08:37:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The valve lash is 30 thousandths on both intake and exhaust. Larry

1750 wide front

IP: 98.30.87.162 Posted on February 14, 2012 at 08:40:03 PM by Ryan

I have a 1750 D that has a set back axle, will the reg wide front fit on this tractor?

Re(1): 1750 wide front

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:19:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. Larry

1650 Diesel Fuel Problem

IP: 71.113.229.54 Posted on February 14, 2012 at 03:25:21 PM by Bill

Starts good and while running bogs down and died. Starts right up and some times it will run several minutes and other times dieds again right away. Thinking I had bad diesel I drain, refill with new and install new fuel filters. Still have the problem. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1650 Diesel Fuel Problem

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:17:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Remove the 2 little screws that hold the cover on the side of the injection pump. If you see material that looks like coffee grounds, the governor ring is breaking up and the pump will have to be removed and repaired at a pump shop. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Diesel Fuel Problem

IP: 71.113.229.54 Posted on March 15, 2012 at 03:13:53 PM by bill

Thanks Larry. I check and clean fuel comes out. Have fuel at entry to injectors. Could injectors be bad? How can I test them?

Re(3): 1650 Diesel Fuel Problem

IP: 75.104.168.101 Posted on March 16, 2012 at 09:48:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think your injectors are the problem. I think it is the fuel supply to your pump. If the return line on top of the pump is not venting properly, that could also cause this. Larry

880 governor problems

IP: 209.188.79.42 Posted on February 14, 2012 at 11:28:21 AM by David Dahl

our 880 is running correct high idle rpm, but the throttle response is not snappy, and when u pull it, it pulls down to 1600/1700 rpm and stays there, it dont try to come back to 2100/high idle

Re(1): 880 governor problems

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:15:40 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to take the governor out of the engine and inspect it for wear. Replace worn parts. Larry

super55 ground/1900hydrolics

IP: 64.8.174.253 Posted on February 14, 2012 at 06:58:02 AM by steve

2 questions for you 1st where is the factory ground on a super55 gas the op. manual shows it on the left side from the baqttery to the tab on the back corner of the battery tray.OK how is the tray grounded?? The parts book dose list a ground strap with eylets on both ends that they call ground from battery tray to crankcase,But where did that go?? Next question 1962 1900-B The hydrolics went out on it & the levers are kind of sticky. Can that complete 3 point hyd unit be replaced with a newer system say like off a 1950-T or late mod. 1850?? The later systems were much improved were they not? Any info would be great thanks!!

Re(1): super55 ground/1900hydrolics

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:14:14 AM by Larry Harsin

All of the S55's I have seen runs the ground cable from the battery to the engine block. That was a common problem. Q. 2. The hydraulic systems off of 1950 T or the late mod. 1850 will work. Larry

1650 gas

IP: 64.184.0.173 Posted on February 13, 2012 at 07:36:27 PM by Wayde Sturgeon

In the hottest days of summer baling round bales my gas in tank starts to boil and tractor runs out of gas. any suggestions on how to stop this? I can actually hear the gas boiling. Thanks Wayde

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:10:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd remove the side panels from the tractor in hot weather. Also, you could put a heat shield between the engine and the fuel tank. Just some insulation, like fiberglass or something. Larry

3150 cat

IP: 12.230.57.109 Posted on February 13, 2012 at 07:17:50 PM by Matt Gaskell

Larry, I just bought home a 1974 White 2255 with a 3150 cat. The tractor ran fine. I changed fuel filter and now it will not fire. Is there an easy cure? Thanks Matt

Re(1): 3150 cat

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:08:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Follow what the Operator's Manual says and bleed the fuel system. You can get a Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

1850 flywheel

IP: 166.182.3.89 Posted on February 12, 2012 at 06:59:29 PM by chris m

I took the clutch out, its shot. The flywheel is all cracked up, and I was wondering if anyone has one or knows where to get one. Or knows how far u can machine them down. Serial number 150-421 thru 194-007 . Any help would be much appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 flywheel

IP: 67.142.181.25 Posted on February 13, 2012 at 04:52:35 PM by Larry from MD

Its common to find small fine cracks in flywheels and most times they get reused as is.

Re(2): 1850 flywheel

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:06:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a replacement flywheel if your tractor is a gas and you need it. Otherwise, I would have the old one mechined as Larry from MD says. Larry

Broken bendix springs

IP: 142.68.136.148 Posted on February 12, 2012 at 02:35:25 PM by Keith Mullen

My 1955 Oliver 55 gas tractor with a Delco starter continuously breaks the bendix spring. New armature, new brushes, stock bendix drive, everything in good operating condition. Ant thoughts, please?

Re(1): Broken bendix springs

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:04:26 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a new style Bendix that doesn't have that spring. I would try to get one like that. Larry

Re(2): Broken bendix springs

IP: 142.68.143.181 Posted on March 1, 2012 at 12:08:08 PM by Keith Mullen

Yes, I have now obtained this newer type of drive and it seems to have solved my problem. The bendix springs that are now made in China and India would not stand up to the extra force involved by running the 6V starter on 12V. Thank you for your reply.

hydraulic control valve

IP: 75.106.153.63 Posted on February 11, 2012 at 08:33:36 AM by Kevin

I have an Oliver 550 and have a leak coming out of my external control valve and have tried to take it off but I am missing something. I removed the three bolts but still can't get it off. What am i missing?

Re(1): hydraulic control valve

IP: 98.168.213.200 Posted on February 12, 2012 at 08:53:25 PM by Larry K

There are 4 bolts. The pin that serves as the pivot for the control arm is also a bolt that holds the control block on the tractor.

Re(2): hydraulic control valve

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:01:55 AM by Larry Harsin

That is correct! Larry

1850 diesel

IP: 166.181.3.148 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 05:08:51 PM by chris m

I just bought this 1850 with "a bad clutch" . My uncle said that there is a thrust washer on the crankshaft that may be bad causing the crankshaft to move back and forth. He said to try using a pry bar to see if I could move the harmonic balancer forward but I am a bit skeptical about that. I'm thinking just replace the clutch. Any help would be awesome!!!

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 67.142.181.22 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 07:15:26 PM by Larry from MD

Don't pry on the balancer. Have someone push the pedal while you watch. Most likely the problem is in the clutch.

Re(2): 1850 diesel

IP: 166.181.3.197 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 08:13:54 PM by Chris m

I held the pedal down and it didn't move but there isn't a gap behind the pulley and the engine. If there was an issue it would push it forward right?

Re(3): 1850 diesel

IP: 67.142.181.27 Posted on February 10, 2012 at 04:55:24 PM by Larry from MD

Yes if its loose. The engines are angled down in back so they mate up to the trans,so the crank will lay to the rear untill something pushes it forward.

1955 Super 55

IP: 76.4.213.130 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 07:19:46 AM by Brian

I found the oil fill! Thank you very much. Can you tell me what the draft control does? I purchased this tractor mainly to pull a boxblade. I really like it and want to get as much out of it as I can.

Re(1): 1955 Super 55

IP: 76.208.22.148 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 07:08:28 PM by 90%ret'd

When using a box blade on the 3 PT.it is best to lock it out. two 1/2" cap screws on the top link rocker on the tractor need to be adjusted so the heads of them are snug against the rear of the seat bracket to keep it from moving toward the front of the tractor, best I can do without photos. Draft control was usually used for moldboard plows. Load from top link when using a box blade can cause chattering and make the blade difficult to control. http://www.floydcountymuseum.org/ Why dont' you contact them and get an operators manual, then you will have photos to go with the information.

Re(2): 1955 Super 55

IP: 76.4.213.130 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 01:44:26 PM by Brian

I have already ordered the operators manual. I'm just trying to learn as much as I can, as soon as I can.

1955 Super 55

IP: 76.4.213.130 Posted on February 8, 2012 at 03:33:18 PM by Brian Williams

I am new to Oliver. I am trying to find the oil dipstick. Please help! 1955 Super 55 Diesel

Re(1): 1955 Super 55

IP: 67.142.181.24 Posted on February 8, 2012 at 04:57:01 PM by Larry from MD

Its on the left side of engine just forward of the starter and its a screw off cap a little smaller then the gas cap.

Re(2): 1955 Super 55

IP: 76.4.213.130 Posted on February 9, 2012 at 07:04:10 AM by Brian Williams

Got it! Thank you very much. Can you tell me what the draft control does? I purchased this tractor mainly to pull a boxblade. I really like it and want to get as much out of it as I can.

Re(3): 1955 Super 55

IP: 75.104.168.101 Posted on March 16, 2012 at 10:27:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The draft control is there to give the tractor some traction when pulling a plow or something hard like that. Larry

manuals

IP: 67.85.220.48 Posted on February 7, 2012 at 09:59:44 PM by chris

hey larry i got my manuals about a week ago and i cant stop reading them all the optional equipment is crazy the foot accelorator is my favorite im going to fab one up and send you pics when its done. you did magic to my pump. i wanted to know your secret for extracting the bearings i couldnt pull,? freezer? heat? alls i know is oliver tractors come first in my book then i might think about a deere, naaaa:) ollies all the way

Re(1): manuals

IP: 75.104.168.101 Posted on March 16, 2012 at 06:59:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I used a small chisel to get those bearings out. It wasn't as easy as it sounds either. I'm glad it worked and glad to hear your enthusiasm for Olivers. Larry

Oliver 2050

IP: 71.50.41.240 Posted on February 7, 2012 at 07:54:18 PM by zach

I have a 2050 and currently have the engine out, just rebuilt it. Im kicking around the ideal of putting a turbo on it. Would this be possible without having to alter any of the sheet metal? I know the 2050 and 2150 are basically the same tractor minus the turbo and it appears the sheet metal looks identical on the 2150. Also if I was to put a turbo on, would I have to go to a 14 inch clutch like a 2150 or would I be able to stay with the current 13 inch clutch.

Re(1): Oliver 2050

IP: 75.104.168.101 Posted on March 16, 2012 at 07:05:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I'm not familiar with that model. Larry

Oliver 1800 C

IP: 74.47.15.122 Posted on February 6, 2012 at 09:19:56 PM by Craig Benson

Hi i have a 1800 c and i was driving in in third and it died so i started it and its stuck in third and i cant get it out. What can i do to get it out?

Re(1): Oliver 1800 C

IP: 75.104.168.101 Posted on March 16, 2012 at 06:47:07 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to remove the lid on the transmission by the gear shift lever and see if you can tell what happened. It may be a lack of lubrication causing the top shaft to lock up. Larry

1850 slight popping at idle and breather oil

IP: 199.120.122.69 Posted on February 4, 2012 at 10:37:40 PM by Steve W

I have an 1850 that I just went through the injectors and pump on. At idle it has a slight popping sound on one or two cylinders. Also it dumps quite a bit of oil out of the breather when then engine is cold but goes away after it warms up. Is the breather supposed to have some kind of screen or scotchbrite kind of filter in it? Could this be a valve sticking open or something more major like broken rings? Thanks for your help

Re(1): 1850 slight popping at idle and breather oil

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 4, 2012 at 10:57:38 PM by Larry Harsin

If the fuel system is in good shape, you must have a problem with the engine. You could very well have a tired engine needing an overhaul. Larry

Re(2): 1850 slight popping at idle and breather oil

IP: 199.120.122.69 Posted on February 6, 2012 at 07:39:45 PM by Steve W

Is there supposed to be some kind of screen in the breather tube or is it clear all the way from the valve cover to the outlet. I read somewhere where if you don't have some kind of screen in the breather tube to deflect the oil back into the the valve cover. We cleaned the breather tube last fall and I can't remember if something like a screen came out of it or not.

Re(3): 1850 slight popping at idle and breather oil

IP: 67.142.181.23 Posted on February 7, 2012 at 04:28:49 PM by Larry from MD

There is no screen.

Re(4): 1850 slight popping at idle and breather oil

IP: 75.104.182.237 Posted on February 20, 2012 at 09:00:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think that is the problem. I think you have a tired engine. Larry

Oliver 1850 diesel camshaft

IP: 74.36.188.127 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 08:32:55 PM by Austin

I am looking for a perkins 6.354 diesel camshaft. The casting number is: 31416221. this cam is not very common it seems like. every salvage yard that we have called does not have one. Do you know if the part number subs over to another part number. THX

Re(1): Oliver 1850 diesel camshaft

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 11:49:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one of these. I don't know if the part number is changed. Here are a couple more Salvage Yards you can try. Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-304. Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Oliver Tractor on tracks

IP: 67.142.164.21 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 01:43:50 PM by Leo Branscum

My Sister has just lost her husban an she has a Oliver tractor for sale just wondering how we might be able to sell it she no longer wants it if you know some one that might wont to buy it I could send you a pictureof it Leo Branscum

Re(1): Oliver Tractor on tracks

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 4, 2012 at 07:22:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I would advertise it in the Oliver collector's magazines. There is the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. magazine: Email: hpocaeditors@gmail.com and there is Oliver Heritage magazine: Website: www.oliverheritage.com Both magazines charge 35 cents a word. They come out on opposite months. These magazines are read by over 7000 Oliver Collectors every month. Larry

Super 77 distributor

IP: 66.62.89.163 Posted on February 2, 2012 at 08:25:24 PM by Corey

Will a distibutor out of a 1800 work in a S77, if not what is the difference between the two ?

Re(1): Super 77 distributor

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 09:37:53 AM by Larry Harsin

According to the Parts Book, they will not interchange. I don't know the difference. Delco Remy has them listed with 2 different parts numbers. It might be in the advance that they are different. You could try it and see if it would work.

1955 hood seal

IP: 184.75.147.126 Posted on February 2, 2012 at 05:15:57 PM by David Schmidt

Just finished a model 1955 restoration. Wondering where I can buy the 2 rubber pieces and plastic piece that go between the steering column and the hood/side panels. Dealer is a bit pricey. Thanks!

Re(1): 1955 hood seal

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 07:01:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry

Re(2): 1955 hood seal

IP: 69.213.183.129 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 07:26:53 AM by David Schmidt

One more question: We set the timing at TDC instead of 2 deg, just for better starting. Any problems with setting it at TDC?

Re(3): 1955 hood seal

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 3, 2012 at 11:45:27 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It will be fine. Larry

283 timing

IP: 216.25.247.244 Posted on February 1, 2012 at 02:40:11 PM by Matt

Is an 88 fly wheel have the same diameter as a 1650 fly wheel? Having trouble finding 4 deg btdc on our 283 motor we installed in an 88

Re(1): 283 timing

IP: 75.105.44.124 Posted on February 2, 2012 at 07:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

They are the same diameter. I would use TDC on the one you have. 4 degrees is about 1/4 inch on that flywheel. Larry

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