"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - February, 2013 Archives


Rear main seal

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on February 26, 2013 at 04:50:57 PM by chris

hi larry im putting my clutch together and im worried about my rear main seal, my tractor is a 1949 oliver 77, this is the same tractor you got me that clutch fork and throw out bearing for. the seal is the old style spring loaded cork with a metal retainer, should i update to a lip seal? can you get the parts for me?

Re(1): rear main seal

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on February 28, 2013 at 08:26:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd put in the old style spring loaded cork one again. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): rear main seal

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on March 3, 2013 at 02:20:54 PM by chris

do i have to do anything special to it when the new one goes in?

Re(3): rear main seal

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on March 4, 2013 at 08:22:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Just follow the instructions in the Shop Manual. Make sure the cork slides freely on the crankshaft hub. I would soak the cork seal in oil for a day or two before I installed it. Larry


88diesel/1600 enging

IP: 71.245.6.29 Posted on February 25, 2013 at 04:37:43 PM by Gregory Salvatore

I have a 1953 88 diesel and found the block to be cracked I have all the parts to rebuild it ,But I was given a engine form a 1600 ind , Can I use the fly wheel from the 88 on the 1600 engine ? If you know some one looking for 88 diesel pistons kits and gaskets and a reverser set up form the ind engine I would sell them .

Re(1): 88diesel/1600 enging

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on February 26, 2013 at 07:44:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. A flywheel from an 88 will work on a 1600. Larry

Re(2): 88diesel/1600 enging

IP: 71.245.6.29 Posted on March 1, 2013 at 10:28:14 PM by Greg

Will any other parts interchange from the 88 to the 1600 ? I have 6 liner kits full gasket set for the 88 , Will any of it fit the 1600 ?

Re(3): 88diesel/1600 enging

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 2, 2013 at 07:48:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the sleeves and pistons would work also. Larry


1600 3 pt.

IP: 216.176.92.160 Posted on February 25, 2013 at 08:26:56 AM by tim

1600 oliver 3pt hitch rate of drop how to slow down

Re(1): 1600 3 point

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on February 26, 2013 at 07:43:24 AM by Larry Harsin

There's no adjustment, just move the lever more slowly. Larry

Re(2): 1600 3 point

IP: 97.73.64.150 Posted on February 26, 2013 at 11:23:03 AM by larry from maryland

One thing if the piston seal is bad the the tractor is constantly trying to raise the 3 point.In this case it will drop faster than normal because it is leaking.Its a big job to repair so guys often wait untill they need to replace the pump or something else at the same time.


re-installing hydra-lectric top cover

IP: 199.245.85.147 Posted on February 24, 2013 at 08:59:57 AM by randy

I am having difficulty getting the cover reinstalled. any tips other getting the levers centered into the yokes?

Re(1): re-installing hydra-lectric top cover

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 26, 2013 at 07:41:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Not really. Just keep trying. Larry


Oliver 1755 clutch problems

IP: 72.42.74.157 Posted on February 23, 2013 at 03:30:54 PM by Sherm Moats

Hi Larry, I was wondering if you might have run across this problem. Have a 1755 that seems to want to move under it's own power. Push in the clutch and it'll shift gears fine, no grinding, clutch actually seems ok, but regardless of it being in over/under or direct, the tractor will only try to move a little. Any ideas for troubleshooting? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1755 clutch problems

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on February 23, 2013 at 07:42:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure what is going on here. Give me a call and perhaps we can talk it out. 712-362-2966 Larry


head gasket

IP: 66.82.162.20 Posted on February 21, 2013 at 09:38:04 AM by Danny Willis

need head gasket for 1250 4cyl fiat gas engine please let me know where i can find one Thanks Re(1): head gasket

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on February 22, 2013 at 05:10:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with info@ricksagparts.com Larry


Bucket tilting

IP: 206.8.12.155 Posted on February 19, 2013 at 08:19:03 PM by Glenn Bullock

I have a 1971 Oliver 1655 with a 590 Allied loader using the tractors hydraulics. The tilt on the bucket will not stay up. It slowly goes down even without a load in the bucket. I have taken both cylinders to the hydraulic shop and had them gone through and new seals installed. This did not help. Can you tell me what the problem could be? Could it be the pump? Are there seals, o'rings? How big of a job is it to get at the pump? Where do I find the parts?

Re(1): Bucket tilting

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 20, 2013 at 07:15:30 AM by Larry Harsin

It's probably in the inter-lock for that valve. Try reversing the hoses or changing sides. Also, put a pressure gauge on both sides of the inter-lock and see if they both hold pressure. My own idea on these is to plumb in to the "Power Beyond" and use a separate loader valve. Larry


1650 break in

IP: 71.49.78.41 Posted on February 19, 2013 at 07:25:47 PM by Justin Gravitt

Hi I have freshly rebuilt my early 1650 diesel engine and was wondering if you had any recomendations on what oil or additives I should use and how to break in the engine I don't have 3 point arms on yet so instead of plowing I thought I could pull my dads tractor up a big hill by the house in a high gear do you have any other ways and how long should i keep it under a load

Re(1): 1650 break in

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on February 20, 2013 at 07:13:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Ideally, the best way to break an engine in it to put it on a load where it could be used for several hours, such as a PTO job. If there is a dynamometer close by, see if you can rent it for a few hours. Ideally, it should run full throttle, a bit over half load, for 2 hrs. Larry


1655 Oliver rear wheel hanging up

IP: 174.124.25.133 Posted on February 17, 2013 at 05:26:49 PM by Mike Smith

Hi, My name is Mike from Colfax, Wisconsin. I have a 1655 Oliver 1974 model that the rear wheel keeps hanging up or feels like the brakes are sticking (I think it is the right side). When I push the clutch in to stop it hangs up and I can't take it out of gear for 20-30 seconds until it frees up. You can tell because it will begin to roll. Sometimes I have to put it in reverse and back up a little or it feels like the brakes are sticking. Then it works fine for awhile. I took the brakes of the left and right side one at a time and it does the same thing so I don't think it's the brakes. Can you give me an idea what is going on with it. I really love this tractor it's an all around good tractor and easy to use.

Re(1): 1655 Oliver rear wheel hanging up

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 19, 2013 at 07:58:16 AM by Larry Harsin

The cross shafts that the clutch pedals and brake pedals are mounted on are possibly sticking. Take some WD-40 and apply it to the pivots. Then, if it still acts up, take the covers off of the brakes and clean them out. You may have to remove the brake discs and the actuaters and get them cleaned up good. Larry


Oliver 1550 frontloader Hydraulics

IP: 67.139.65.163 Posted on February 15, 2013 at 02:47:46 PM by Dane

I have an Oliver 1250/1550. Or maybe it's something else. It has a different number on several parts of it. But it says Model # 125 2111. Serial # 725 734. So my dilemma is this. I bought this tractor used and was able to lift the front bucket and load the tractor on a flat-bed trailer and get it home. Once at home I started the tractor and could not get the bucket to lift again. I am very new to tractors and this might seem dumb, but I have to ask. Is there some switch I hit that turns off the hydraulics to the front end loader? It used to get pressure and work fine, but now it has completely shut down. I have replaced the fluid in the system with new hydraulic/transmission fluid because the transmission was empty and the fluid has a white, thick and pasty viscosity to it. I replaced the filter under the lever for the lift/tilt. I also cleaned the filter under the seat as shown in the manual for the 1250. Are there any troubleshooting techniques I can use to find out what needs to be changed next?

Re(1): Oliver 1550 frontloader Hydraulics

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on February 16, 2013 at 08:03:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I see in the pictures, that it has the extra pump to run the loader. (3rd pic. the round thing with the hoses coming out of it.) It is a Fiat Oliver built in Italy and I havn't had much work experience on those. If you have changed all the fluids and filters, it should work. You could contact Rick Stair in Wooster OH. He claims to have parts for these tractors and may know what to suggest for you to check. His email: info@ricksagparts.com Phone: 330-466-2146. Larry


550 Carb Leaking

IP: 174.228.130.110 Posted on February 13, 2013 at 04:22:36 PM by Bob

I have a 1962 550 and the carb is leaking from the power adjustment at the bottom of the carb. It is a Marvel Schebler TSX 811 62 F. The adjustment is set at 2 1/2 turns and runs well but the needle seems to wiggle. Where can I find a replacement and is there a part number

Re(1): 550 Carb Leaking

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 14, 2013 at 08:04:44 AM by Larry Harsin

You should try to get a new part for this. Call Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224 or your local AGCO Dealer. They will know the part number. Larry


Fluid changes

IP: 70.199.103.15 Posted on February 13, 2013 at 11:00:56 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Thank you for all the help and great answers on your board. I am going to change out all the fluids on my 1855. I have the books. Do those fluids still exsist and should I use or can you suggest what , engine oil, hydro oil, final drive oil I should be using? Thank you.

Re(1): Fluid changes

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 14, 2013 at 08:00:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use the 15-40 engine oil instead of straight 30. Otherwise, the fluids as stated in your Operator's Manual. Larry


Oil use

IP: 174.255.97.221 Posted on February 13, 2013 at 07:45:11 AM by Bob Turner

Hello I recently changed intake manifolds on my 1850 gas immediately after change eng began to smoke badly (a lot of oil in most cyl) the only thing that changed was a couple of the studs ran in a little deeper into the head I have changed back to the original manifold with same results is it possible that the studs depth caused this? All cyl have 150 lbs of compression but engine drowns in oil

Re(1): Oil use

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 14, 2013 at 07:53:13 AM by Larry Harsin

The only thing I can think of is that you might have installed the piston rings upside down. Larry


Hydraulic Hose

IP: 98.87.158.239 Posted on February 11, 2013 at 10:03:51 PM by Robert

On my 1550 Oliver, I have a hydraulic hose leaking in the compartment behind the dash. I removed the cover containing the gauges. The hose has a connection near the top of the tractor and runs vertically downward. It is not obvious how to remove this hose for replacement. What do you suggest?

Re(1): Hydraulic Hose

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 12, 2013 at 07:57:54 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can't get at it through the access panels on the dash, you may have to remove the hood, side panels and fuel tank to get at those hoses. Larry


hydraulic system

IP: 75.45.12.202 Posted on February 11, 2013 at 10:35:01 AM by Dale Fowlar

How to drain hydraulic fluid on Oliver 15-5007 tractor? And ...Where is the drain plug if any?

Re(1): hydraulic system

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 12, 2013 at 07:55:52 AM by Larry Harsin

What do you mean a 15-5007 tractor??? You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. They will need to know if you have a 77 or an 88 or whatever. I normally plug into the remote outlet and pump the fluid into a pail. Larry


Super 55--Oil Leak

IP: 69.197.100.116 Posted on February 10, 2013 at 04:27:02 PM by Garry Speight

I own a Super 55 that leaks oil from where the brake shaft enters into the main brake & transmission housing. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem? Thank you in advance. Garry

Re(1): Super 55--Oil Leak

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 12, 2013 at 07:52:52 AM by Larry Harsin

There are seals. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. for seals. 800-320-6224. Larry


Oliver 1750 310 Diesel

IP: 98.86.138.166 Posted on February 8, 2013 at 09:14:05 AM by Wayne

I am trying to find the torque specs on this engine, and also what would the valve lash need to be set at

Re(1): Oliver 1750 310 Diesel

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 9, 2013 at 07:41:10 AM by Larry Harsin

The 5/8 head bolts are torqued to 180 ft. lbs. except for the 2 head bolts on each end of the engine (4 bolts). They are torqued to 150 ft. lbs. Mains are torqued to 150, rods 45. Valves set at .030, both exhaust and intake. Larry


1650 rear rims

IP: 174.255.82.48 Posted on February 7, 2013 at 06:59:20 PM by Clay

I have a 1650 oliver and am looking for rear rims 14/38. I have found some company's that have reproductions but I don't know if they will fit. Got any answers

Re(1): 1650 rear rims

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 9, 2013 at 07:37:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any at the present time. Have you checked with Miller Tire? www.millertire.com Larry


550 external hyd control

IP: 76.64.19.20 Posted on February 6, 2013 at 11:03:30 AM by jamie

I want to connect another external hydraulic control on my 550 for the bucket(using two-way cylinders-which I have purchased)and come off the existing control(vickers sp212). Which port is the feed and which one is the return on the vickers? Can't find that out in my manual? It has two ports on the bottom and one on the side.

Re(1): 550 external hyd control

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 7, 2013 at 07:54:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Call me so we can discuss this. 712-362-2966 Larry

Re(2): 550 external hyd control

IP: 64.53.54.82 Posted on February 15, 2013 at 00:11:46 AM by J. Mash

It is the 2 ports on the bottom. The one on the side is for a one way acting cylinder


1650 chain coupler

IP: 70.246.226.25 Posted on February 1, 2013 at 07:39:13 AM by Justin Gravitt

I rebuilt my diesel engine and hydrapower put everything back like it was and to achieve perfect level on the coupler gears i needed to use the bolt that is in the frame to lift the hydrapower my guestion is is that bolt used to lift things then you need to shim after or can you use that bolt to push up on the hydrapower permanent. Thanks for the help

Re(1): 1650 chain coupler

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on February 4, 2013 at 07:39:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Just using the bolt should do it. Larry


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