880 engine oil leak

IP: 70.26.21.148 Posted on February 24, 2014 at 11:54:13 AM by Don

I have an early 880 diesel with Bosch pump. I have a leak around the front crankshaft seal. Was there a replacement part or upgrade part that I can use to fix this problem.

Re(1): 880 engine oil leak

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 27, 2014 at 07:39:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I just use the parts like they have originally. You can get them at your AGCO dealer. If you don't have an AGCO dealer near, you can call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 Wakasha

IP: 24.171.85.165 Posted on February 23, 2014 at 07:42:57 PM by John H. Armstrong

I have a 1650 Oliver Diesel, that was my cousin's prior to his death. I use it for brush hogging and wood splitting. Today I was splitting wood, and the tractor gradually lost power. I shut off the engine, checked the fluids, and restarted it. The engine initially idled OK, but it would not answer to the throttle. The linkage was active and responsive, but the engine would not answer. My suspicion of are fuel filters since I know that they have not been touched in 12 + years. However, I can not find a procedure for replacing the two filters and bleeding the fuel system. Help.

Re(1): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 27, 2014 at 07:37:03 AM by Larry Harsin

All of that is covered in the Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Basically, you remove the old filters and put on new ones and get fuel flowing through them. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 24.171.85.165 Posted on March 2, 2014 at 10:45:04 AM by John H. Armstrong

Fortunately, I found a shop manual in the shop of all places. I replaced the primary and secondary fuel filters, and they did need to be replaced after 14 years. The tractor starts, but still doesn't respond to the throttle. After a little thinking I decided to crack the bleeder valve on the secondary fuel filter to verify fuel flow. No fuel came out. Therefore I think that I have a transfer pump failure, and that the only fuel flow that is being achieved is due to gravity feed. Any other ideas?

Re(3): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 3, 2014 at 07:37:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The standard thing to do in this case, is to clean out the fuel strainer. Larry

Re(4): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 24.171.85.165 Posted on March 4, 2014 at 10:39:23 PM by John H. Armstrong

Are you referring to the sediment bowl on the bottom of the tank? I don't recall seeing any other fuel strainer on the schematic.

Re(5): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 09:15:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Remove that bowl completely from the tank and clean it and make sure nothing is messing up the flow. Larry

Re(6): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 108.206.221.2 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 01:53:37 PM by John H. Armstrong

Will do. Thank you for the advice.

Re(7): 1650 Wakasha

IP: 24.171.85.165 Posted on March 23, 2014 at 08:33:52 PM by John H. Armstrong

I cleaned the strainer / sediment bowl, and replaced the transfer pump. The tractor starts and ran well enough to creep back to the shop, but it still doesn't answer to throttle. And it still dies. I am running out of ideas. I suppose that it is possible that there is an obstruction in a fuel line between the transfer pump and the injection pump. Any ideas before I give up and take it to a repair shop?

xo 121

IP: 67.224.56.43 Posted on February 23, 2014 at 10:44:14 AM by joe Zubrod

Was wondering if the xo 121 was painted oliver red or is that a different red. I might paint my 70 the same as xo121. Thanks Larry!!

Re(1): xo 121

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 27, 2014 at 07:31:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it was the same red that was used on the other Olivers at that time. Larry

Fly wheel specs

IP: 136.204.224.125 Posted on February 20, 2014 at 02:28:04 PM by Rich Sturgeon

Hi, I am overhauling a 1974 Oliver 2255 with a Cat 3150 and the flywheel needs machining for the clutch surface and I would like to know if you would help me out with any information on the max amount it can be turned down on a lathe. If you could get back to me ASAP that would be great thanks! Rich

Re(1): Fly wheel specs

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 27, 2014 at 07:34:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm sorry, we have been gone to the National Oliver Show in Pennsylvania. I don't have that information. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224. Larry

Pulling 1800 engine

IP: 198.111.39.21 Posted on February 19, 2014 at 01:35:15 PM by Tom

I have a Oliver 1800A that I want to repower with an engine from a Oliver 1800C. In the manual there is pictured an eyebolt to lift the engine (eyebolt #sts-137 I believe). Can you tell me what size eyebolt and what the threads per inch are on this eyebolt? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Pulling 1800 engine

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 27, 2014 at 07:30:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a 9/16 fine thread. Larry

1800 Hydraulics

IP: 70.194.198.81 Posted on February 19, 2014 at 09:43:19 AM by Zach Faust

I have an Oliver 1800 with a 1955 diesel in it. The issue I'm having is with the hydraulics. The right valve bleeds off real fast and the left valve is seems have a lot of pressure on it when trying to hook something up. When hooked up to a bush hog it will bleed across and try to raise the wings on the bush hog. What could be causing this? I was told there was a rebuild kit to fix this and was also told the valve housing might be cracked. Justlooking for some suggestions. Thanks

Re(1): 1800 Hydraulics

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 25, 2014 at 08:39:43 AM by Larry Harsin

That is a common thing to encounter with this system. It doesn't mean that there is anything particularly wrong with it. The adjustments are covered in the Operator's Manual. If you don't have one, you can get one from the museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. If you have checked the adjustments and they are o,k., you could possibly have a leaking interlock valve. Larry

Manual Steering

IP: 216.8.143.132 Posted on February 18, 2014 at 09:18:41 AM by Richard Turner

I had to replace the two bearings in the steering box. ( top and bottom ) The worm was OK and I did not remove it from the steering shaft. It went back together no problem. My question is how do you time the wheels? When it went back together the right wheel will go as far right as it can, but , the left side will only go to just past center. What is the procedure? the gear with the large tooth is inserted from the left side to control the right wheel. I do not have an IT manual. The one that the local tractor mechanic has only talks about replacing the ball bearings in the worm.

Re(1): Manual Steering

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 25, 2014 at 08:32:46 AM by Larry Harsin

First, you don't say what model Oliver it is on! I would say, put it in the middle of the travel and then try it. Larry

880 Generator

IP: 64.12.117.16 Posted on February 16, 2014 at 09:34:00 AM by Liz

I just had the generator rebuilt and a new regulator. After installation, with the engine at idle the amp light stays off, after reving the engine the amp light comes on and stays on until the engine is idled down. The cluster gauge is pos. ground. The battery cables are set up as pos. ground. When I took the generator to the shop, they were told it was pos. ground. Is it possible it has been set up as neg. ground? If so, could this be my problem or do you have any other suggestions. Thank you!

Re(1): 880 Generator

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 17, 2014 at 07:56:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I would polarize the system. Momentarily connect the battery terminal on the regulator to the armature terminal on the generator. I'm assuming the wires are hooked up correctly. There is a wiring diagram in your Operator's Manual, if you need it. Anything is possible, that is why you should look at your wiring diagram. The tractor was built to have positive ground, so that is correct. Larry

leaking on super 55

IP: 76.8.107.19 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 10:31:27 PM by Dwight Tyndall

I have a leaking coming from up under the dash on right side and runs down side to brake pedals. What is the fluid coming from? It is a 1956 super 55. Also are the wheels suppose to be red in 1956 ? Thanks

Re(1): leaking on super 55

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 17, 2014 at 07:51:08 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be oil running out of the steering box. Did you put oil in it and over-fill it? Or is the tractor parked outside in the weather, so that water can get down into the steering box? If you do have water in the steering box, I would take that apart and get that water out of there before damage is done. Larry

70 steering gear

IP: 72.20.85.136 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 09:57:52 AM by MJ On my 1948 wide front 70 row crop, when I turn the steering wheel as much as I can to one side, the steering gear starts to slip. It looks like something is flexing in the steering box behind the engine. Any ideas of how to fix it? Also, the engine seemed to be running lean. I found holes in the venturi in the carburetor. I got a replacement venturi, but am wondering if this was a defect from the factory, or could the air wear holes in it? My 70 was smoking blue smoke at startup, but fixed it by installing Chevy valve stem rubber cup seals that I could install without taking the head off.

Re(2): 70 steering gear

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 17, 2014 at 07:47:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to figure out more of this. . If it is the one under the fuel tank, it is not a full circle sector and it may have the arm on the wrong splines. There are marks on there that will show when it is correctly installed. The marks will show up on the shaft and the arm, that should line up. Larry

1600 gas engine increase

IP: 76.222.227.54 Posted on February 14, 2014 at 07:27:32 PM by Allan

How difficult would it be to increase the engine size in a 1600 with a 231 gas Waukesha to a 283? Would it just be a matter of changing sleeves and pistons?

Re(1): 1600 gas engine increase

IP: 76.222.227.54 Posted on February 14, 2014 at 08:44:14 PM by Allan

I just read the Oct 2011 archives and kind of answered my own question. It looks as if M&W (now valu bilt) has a piston and sleeve kit to increase the bore on the 1600.

Re(1): 1600 gas engine increase

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 08:19:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can do it by just changing the sleeves and pistons. There is an after-market sleeve and piston to make it a 283. I prefer to go to a 1650 sleeve and piston, which makes it a 265. Larry

Re(2): 1600 gas engine increase

IP: 76.222.227.54 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 06:56:43 PM by Allan

Interesting! Why would you recommend the smaller engine? Would I need a bigger fan or radiator with the 283?

Re(3): 1600 gas engine increase

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 17, 2014 at 07:41:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the larger engine runs as well and they burn more gas. Larry

Hydraulic Breather on 1855

IP: 70.194.10.152 Posted on February 12, 2014 at 03:40:56 PM by Jerry Shannon

Should have asked this question on one of my earlier posts. As I have a Hydraulic leak around where the gaskets are under the seat area, I was wondering of a dirty or old plugged Hydraulic Breather would put increased pressure in the unit and cause some oil to be pushed out. I know for example that if your gear box is not vented or the vent is plugged on your Woods Brush Hog, you can get enough pressure to blow a shaft seal. I would not be surprised if this Breather is original to the unit. I have a 1974 Oliver 1855 Diesel. Thanks Larry for the Great advise and information

Re(1): Hydraulic Breather on 1855

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 08:17:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I would change the hydraulic breather element. Larry

Engine Oil in 1855

IP: 70.194.10.152 Posted on February 12, 2014 at 03:16:38 PM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. First let me say I have the Operators Manual, Parts Manual and the Shop Manual. I am getting ready for an engine oil change. The manual says that for 32 to 80 degrees either 30 or 10w/30 oil. I also have a fluids sheet for Oliver tractors from my Agco dealer and it shows for the 1855, using 15w/40 for ranges of 10 to 80 degrees. In Michigan it gets below 0 and over 90 in the summer. Your advise Larry would be great. Thank you.

Re(1): Engine Oil in 1855

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 08:15:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I use the 15x40. Larry

1966 1250 oliver diesel

IP: 173.188.126.186 Posted on February 12, 2014 at 01:53:49 PM by roland reed

I have a 1250 1966 oliver diesel tractor and want to change the oil in the hydraulic lift assembly, my manual says to use automatic trans fluid type 1A, what can I use as a substitute since I can no longer find type 1A.

Re(1): 1966 1250 oliver diesel

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 15, 2014 at 08:14:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Use Dex-ron ATF (the red one). Larry

oliver 1750

IP: 108.16.84.36 Posted on February 10, 2014 at 08:56:48 PM by walt wilson

my 3 point hitch has quit working. tractor had a 1610 loader on it when I bought it and it worked fine as did the 3 point. I sold the loader with the intention of restoring the tractor. after taking the loader off I did not check to see if the 3 point was working but it is not working now. it is in about the middle of it's travel position. it will not move up or down. read one of your posts and tried running tractor at 2/3 throttle while moving draft control lever with the idea of freeing up servo value, but no luck. any help would be appreciated. thank you walt

Re(1): oliver 1750

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 11, 2014 at 08:47:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Did you have a 2 spool loader valve to run the loader? You may have had a power beyond hose to run that valve. If so, if you removed the valve and the hose. If you didn't reconnect that circuit, you may have blocked the flow of oil going into the hydraulic system. Larry

oliver pulling planter

IP: 75.207.9.76 Posted on February 9, 2014 at 08:57:37 PM by jason berger

would an 1855 pull a 12 row white 5100 im currently pulling a 6 row now with no trouble

Re(1): oliver pulling planter

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 11, 2014 at 08:44:06 AM by Larry Harsin

It depends. It might, but you might have a problem occasionally. I would say possibly, but I wouldn't guarantee it. Larry

Re(2): oliver pulling planter

IP: 68.21.87.4 Posted on March 28, 2014 at 06:34:55 AM by Roy Wrightsman

Jason, A few years ago, I pulled a 12r 30" White 6182 planter with my 1755 for two seasons. It worked it pretty good, but handled it. No liquid fertilizer, just seed and insecticide. Fall chiseled, twice field cultivated ground and a few acres of no-till in Western Indiana. It pulled pretty hard on some of our hills, but I generally pulled along at about 5 mph

oliver 88 wont turn over

IP: 192.182.35.148 Posted on February 9, 2014 at 07:52:11 PM by Jim

I have an Oliver 88 that was running this fall. I winterized it and went on vacation. Come back and the engine wont turn with either the starter or by hand. The crank does turn just a little and the pistons move just a little (maybe 3/8")The transmission is out of gear and I tried it with the clutch pushed in too just to make sure. I also noticed when I tried to rotate the engine with the fan blade the water pump started leaking coolant out the weep hole quite fast. Radiator was full and tested to -30 degrees, oil looks clean. It was -17 degrees here while I was gone. I can not imagine anything being stuck in the head but that is where Im thinking. What do you think?

Re(1): oliver 88 wont turn over

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 11, 2014 at 08:42:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to think. You are just going to have to investigate it. Larry

77 rod bearings

IP: 166.147.104.166 Posted on February 8, 2014 at 11:45:40 AM by Austin White

In the process of doing an engine overhaul on my 1949 77 gas. Needs the rod bearings replaced. trying to decide if the bearings are still the standard size, or over sized. The bearings have the numbers 160010 A CGB cast in the backside.

Re(1): 77 rod bearings

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 11, 2014 at 08:40:40 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get a micrometer so you can measure the bering shells. Also, if the crank has been ground to be undersize, it usually has been stamped to what size it has been ground to. You can also purchase a caliper to measure the crank journals. Usually the bearing shells have the undersize on them, like 10 or 20 or 30. Larry

3 pt. lever

IP: 216.176.88.4 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 06:35:58 PM by Steve Coventry

I have a 1650 the 3 pt. lever is stuck in the down postion.What could cause this. I can't see anything wrong with the linkage. thank you Steve

Re(1): 3 pt. lever

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 6, 2014 at 08:44:00 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can't see anything on the outside, you will have to remove the cover and see what is going on on the inside. Before removing that top cover, I would pump the oil out so you can see better what the problem is. Larry

1950t PTO clutch

IP: 72.15.171.10 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 09:28:54 AM by Garrett Ruskamp

I am working on an Oliver 1950t PTO clutch that won't stop after the brake as been applied and disengaged. I have the pto clutch assembly apart and can't find any major reason for it not to stop. Is there anything I can look for or anything I can do to fix this?

Re(1): 1950t PTO clutch

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 6, 2014 at 08:41:49 AM by Larry Harsin

It's the nature of the beast to do that especially when the oil is cold. If there is no warping on the touch plates, that is about as good as you are going to get. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 70.58.139.192 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 08:08:43 AM by Clay McNaughton

I recently purchased an Oliver 70 from a friend that I intend to part out. The serial number indicate it is a late model tractor however, it has a split manifold system on it with two exhaust stacks. I have seen one or two pictures of this before but I am just curious as to what this is. Did Oliver produce this type of manifold for a period of time or is this some sort of a retrofit that some farmers put on the tractor? Just curious!

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 09:11:04 AM by Larry Harsin

There are different opinions about whether the 70's had that as an option or if the guys put them in later. There were quite a few owners who put the dual exhaust on after they bought the tractor. Some think they came that way, but I don't think they did. Larry

oliver 70 fly torque spec

IP: 67.224.56.43 Posted on February 4, 2014 at 03:50:48 PM by william Zubrod

Hi. larry question for you, im putting my clutch, clutch housing, flywheel, pressure plate, ect... back together could you tell me the torque specs.?I have a shop manual but haven't found many torque specs. Thanks for your time!!

Re(1): oliver 70 fly torque spec

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 09:01:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what the torque specs either. I have done them so many times, I don't think about it. :-) Just tighten them up snuggly and don't over torque them. On 5/16 bolts, don't excede 25 lbs. On 3/8 bolts, don't excede 40 lbs. On 7/16 bolts don't excede 60 lbs. On 1/2 in. bolts, don't excede 80 lbs. Larry

'41 Oliver 70 Clutch & Oil Pressure Questions

IP: 66.135.81.44 Posted on February 3, 2014 at 04:45:36 PM by Dean Malkowski

Went out other day [~25F] and started "Olivia" up-started fine, needed a light touch on the choke and throttle for a couple of minutes to get a stable idle. Went to put her into gear and it wouldn't go-shifts into any gear while motor is stopped just fine. Worked fine 2 days earlier. Can the clutch disc freeze to the flywheel in cold weather? If so, is there any preventive measure? Can I merely remove the cover and gently pry between the flywhell and disc to free it? [She is sitting out and got snowed on but temp hasn't gone above freezing for over a week]. Oil Pressure: Has 25 PSI within 10 seconds of starting, notice pressure drops after maybe 15 minutes to close to zero at idle. Have changed oil and filter, used 10-40 because it was what I had handy. Level is full. Cut top of oil filter tube off - 1.5" in order to fit a new, shorter FRAM C159 "canning jar thread" filter on. Do I need to restrict the size of the hole in the end of the shortened tube like the original end was restricted? I drilled the 2 cross holes in the tube near the "new" end like the original had. Read somewhere that cam bearing may be worn and is allowing too much oil thru thus dropping the pressure. Really hoping I'm not looking at replacing rod/main bearings. I hear no bearing knock but then again I really have no idea what an Oliver 70 in good shape ought to sound like while idling...

Re(1): '41 Oliver 70 Clutch & Oil Pressure Questions

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 08:57:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It can freeze. You can keep it inside. When you have troubles like that, you can put a block in between the clutch pedal and the tractor frame so that it will hold the clutch released. On the oil pressure, I would restrict the holes to the same size as it was originally. Yes the cam bearings are probably worn so that it does not have the pressure it needs. Larry

Re(2): '41 Oliver 70 Clutch & Oil Pressure Questions

IP: 66.135.81.44 Posted on February 5, 2014 at 02:52:11 PM by Dean Malkowski

Thanks very much for reply, Larry! It is -5F right now so I probably won't get around to fooling with it for another day [when we'll have another heat wave of +10F]. I'm guessing if I remove the cover plate over the clutch I can slide something like a Slim Jim between the flywheel and clutch plate and maybe spray some brake cleaner on it to get it unstuck? Not sure I want to try playing a torch flame around in there... Sounds like relatively good news on the cam bearing vs. having to do the mains & rods-

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