Retaping manifold on 1850 gas

IP: 206.147.21.137 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 09:35:46 PM by Paul G.

I am wondering what the thread size is for the manifold on a 1850 gas is. I am thinking 2" pipe but wanted to ask for sure. Paul

Re(1): Retaping manifold on 1850 gas

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 11:38:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It's more like a 3" pipe. You'll have to measure the exhaust pipe and go from there. I think it is a 3". Larry

1750 manual

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 09:10:49 PM by shannon phelps

Hey Larry, My dad, Larry, has 1750D that's in need of a new clutch. Since dad believes in doing everything himself, he needs a service manual to show him and his buddies how to replace the clutch. Where can I get him such a manual?

Re(1): 1750 manual

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 11:36:46 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. There is a charge for these manuals. Larry

Tractor Help

IP: 64.12.113.17 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 06:13:40 PM by Gene Alexander

I bought an Oliver Tractor recently and it didnt come with anything to tell how old it is I would like to know if you could help. Its a 1365 make and the serial number is 535 22103. The model number is 720 500. And I would like to know the year of this fine piece of machinary.Please email me at my address when you can thanks. Thank you, Gene Alexander

Re(1): Tractor Help

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 11:32:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1365 was built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. Your serial number is 720 500 and it was built in 1973. You can get an Operator's Manual at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

1755 fwa

IP: 216.220.250.183 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 01:44:54 PM by mike

I have a 1975 1755 fwa with 3700 hrs cab and loader. I would rate condition of tractor 8 on scale 1-10.How many of these tractors were there built and what is the value of this tractor.

Re(1): 1755 fwa

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 11:28:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how many were built. You can check with Charles City Museum and see if they can tell you. They have found the "Build Cards" that there was one for each tractor built. Perhaps they can answer this. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net. If this tractor is as good as you say, I would say it is worth between $7000 and $10,000. Larry

Re(1): 1755 fwa

IP: 64.91.69.209 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 05:23:18 AM by Ron Wolf

Depends on where you live. People here work their tractors and FWA tractors are not desirable due to fuel use. For the same reason a 1650 is worth twice what a 1850 is worth.

MODEL 351 SICKLE BAR MOWER

IP: 68.117.160.2 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 01:50:00 AM by JAYSON

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A MODEL 351 MOWER AND I'M POSITIVE THAT I NEED SOME PARTS, BUT I'M NOT SURE WHAT ALL I NEED. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A PARTS BOOK FOR THIS MACHINE AT ?

Re(1): MODEL 351 SICKLE BAR MOWER

IP: 67.2.249.99 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 07:42:36 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum at Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. There will be a small charge for the manual. Larry

550 sealed beams

IP: 65.117.137.173 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 08:02:00 PM by RockinB

Larry:I am trying to find the number of the sealed beam bulbs to fit the 4-3/4" lights on a 550 The shells are wired for sealed beam 2 wire connections(one hot and one ground).They had no old units in them,so I have nothing to reference them to.There are notches for the lugs of the sealed beams at 3 and 9 O'clock.Number 4411s are too small and have only one lug.The Oliver part # in my parts book is no help,as it is just that, an Oliver #.

Re(1): 550 sealed beams

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 11:49:37 PM by Larry Harsin

That particular sealed beam unit is no longer available. Korves Bros. have replacement lights that look the same as the originals. Contact them: Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681 (shop) Website: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

1655 PTO

IP: 67.28.56.249 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 07:46:29 PM by Ron Hansen

Larry, I have a 1973 1655 which I was told when I purchased it, had a dual speed pto but the 1000 speed shaft had been lost. I tried the 1000 shaft from my 1750 but that didn't work. Are they different? How can I tell for sure that I have the dual speed pto? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1655 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 11:45:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they are different. You'll have to get the correct output shaft and try it and see. You can't really tell from the outside without having the 1000 shaft to try it and see. Larry

Oliver outboard motors

IP: 158.247.216.16 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 01:08:00 PM by Geoffrey in KS

Can anyone here tell me where I can find the following parts. I'm looking for a lower unit for a 1955 Oliver Challenger. I'm also looking for a gas tank for the same motor. Please email me at olivercollector@yahoo.com if you can help. Thanks, Geoffrey Heck

Re(1): Oliver outboard motors

IP: 67.2.248.69 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 06:22:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I have no idea. Perhaps someone else will have. Larry

horsepower

IP: 63.155.184.56 Posted on March 13, 2004 at 10:15:32 AM by William Kennedy

Hello, I would like to know how much horsepower each of the Oliver tractors have especally the the 60, 70, 80, 55, 66, 77 and 88. what is the differance between the row crop, super and standard? Thanks Bill kennedyvalley@yahoo.com

Re(1): horsepower

IP: 67.2.248.69 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 06:10:44 PM by Larry Harsin

The HP of the 60 is 18, the 70 is 28, the 80 is 41, the S55 is 34, the 66 is 25, the 77 is 37 and the 88 is 43. The row crop is designed to carry a front mounted cultivator and had adjustable wheel spacing so that you could do different row spacing. A Standard was not designed to carry a front mounted cultivator and the wheel spacings were not adjustable. The Supers also had Row Crop and Standard models, but were later versions of the same tractors. Larry

Re(2): horsepower

IP: 66.163.147.133 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 11:09:42 PM by karl

Larry, I really enjoy this column! Thanks for keeping it informative. two questions: 1) horse power for an 88, what is the horsepower if the engine was overhauled and bored out (regular pistions) plus what's the horsepower for a super 88 and 2) could you explain why generators are positve ground and alternators are negative ground?

Re(3): horsepower

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 11:42:12 PM by Larry Harsin

The answer to your first question is about 55 HP. This is also the HP for a S88. Question 2: That is the way that most of the ag industry equipped their machinery at that time. Oliver, Deere and IH all used Delco-Remy generators and were positive ground. Generators can be either neg or pos. Delco-Remy built them positive. Delco-Remy also provided the alternators and virtually all of them were negative ground. Larry

Re(3): horsepower

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 05:38:28 AM by Ron Wolf

When you bore an engine you use oversize pistons to match the new bore and you measure horsepower on a dyno. Larry's answer was correct as far as the Oliver models go in the question he answered. A more general answer is that some electrical systems were positive ground and some were negative ground until the mid/late 50's or so. Up to that point, generators were used exclusively. When alternators replaced generators, early/mid 60's or so, all electrical systems were already negative ground systems; hence the presence of an alternator indicates a negative ground system.

550 gas

IP: 63.169.217.35 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 05:32:03 PM by Gary

Hello. Does a 550 have cylinder liners and if so are they wet? I'm getting water in the oil. My first suspicion was the head gasket, but a coworker suggested that if it has wet liners It could have one of those leaking. I'm hoping there isn't any cracks in the head or the block. I'm taking the head off tonight to do some investigating. The serial # on this tractor is 93075-519. Thank you.

Re(1): 550 gas

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 11:50:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it does and they are wet. The first thing to check after you get the valve cover off is the expansion plugs. They can rust through and let anti-freeze get into the oil. These are located beneath the rocker arm assembly on the head. This may be all that your problem is. If you find that these expansion plugs are o.k. and not leaking anti-freeze, I would remove the oil pan from the engine and see if you can find where the anti-freeze is coming from - which cylinder. It could be leaking past an "O" ring at the point where the sleeve fits into the block, or you may have a badly pitted sleeve that has started to leak, or you may have a sleeve that is cracked or broken. I have seen where the sleeve will crack about 1/4 inch down from the top around the circumference of the sleeve. Larry

Re(2): 550 gas

IP: 63.169.217.27 Posted on March 13, 2004 at 03:27:21 PM by gary

Thanks. That will be a great help. I'll check those plugs first. Also, should this tractor have a positive ground system on it? Right now it does. Thanks again. Gary

Re(3): 550 gas

IP: 67.2.248.69 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 06:25:05 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has a generator, it has positive ground. It was built with a positive ground system. Larry

Re(4): 550 gas

IP: 63.169.216.140 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 06:06:52 PM by Gary

Thank you very much Larry, you've been a great help. Do you have, or do you know where a generator with the power steering pump on it could be found. This 550 I'am working on has been rigged up with a small automotive pump and it's worn out. I'd like to replace it with the right parts if I can locate them. Gary

Re(5): 550 gas

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 11:17:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Farmersville Equip. 717-354-2150. Larry

1800A

IP: 216.26.143.2 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 01:57:25 PM by Rodney Rhodes

I have a Oliver 1800 A that has dual remote hydraulics. It has an electric push button on each hydraulic lever. Can you tell me what these buttons are supposed to do? They do not work the wires have been cut. Thanks

Re(1): 1800A

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 03:27:24 PM by Ron Wolf

It's Oliver's Hydra-lectric system. It allows you to set the extension of each cylinder so that you can easily repeat it each time. It requires special cylinders which is why most people just cut the wires.

Re(2): 1800A

IP: 216.26.143.2 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 06:45:04 PM by Rodney Rhodes

Did these cylinders have wires that hook into the tractor? If so where? Thanks

Re(3): 1800A

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 11:41:31 PM by Larry Harsin

The push buttons on the levers actuated the magnetic head on the cylinder so that you could change the position of the depth stop washer on the cylinder rod. There was a wiring harness for each cylinder and each valve that hooked into the tractor on the hydraulic unit under the seat. It should explain how these work in your Operator's Manual. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, get one from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 01:32:04 AM by Bill Guise

Just had the Magneto rebuilt for my OC-3 Crawler, and set up the governor by the book. Engine runs fine but after 4-5 starts skips out of the magneto grove and knocks the timing off. Everything within the governor looks ok, but seems like it's missing a spacer washer to take up some of the obvious slack in the shaft. Does the governor gear move back and forth on the shaft? According to the parts book, everything is accounted for and it "looks normal". Puzzled and alone out here on the West Coast near Seattle, WA. Thanks for your thoughts, Bill

Re(1): Magneto/governor

IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 07:55:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman on this. Phone: 717-738-2573 Email: zoc@att.net Larry

Re(2): Magneto/governor

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 12:32:33 PM by Larry from MD

The gear is not supposed to move in or out.You may have to shim the bearing to make things tight.A smaller width bearing may have been installed or a washer may have simply worn too much.The internal govner parts do push one way allmost all the time so its common for them to wear.

Re(3): Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 04:54:22 PM by Bill Guise

Thanks Landis and Larry, and Larry from MD: As suggested Landis & Larry from MD, it is probably wear on thegovernor cover bushing, that has a face that rides against the operating fork riser assy. While I have not taken it apart yet to see, Landus I think, put his finger on the problem. The bushing face is worn off. I have ordered a new one, and I think, for now, thats the end of the story. Again, much appreciation for everyone's response. "Go Oliver 42OC-3"

Re(4): Magneto/governor

IP: 134.161.13.145 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 09:47:03 PM by J. Bailey

I had that problem with my HG. Turned out the little thrust "button" was not a tight fit in the aluminum governor housing. So it would gradually slip forward and let the gear disengage from the magneto drive. THe head of that button shows on the outside front of the gov. housing. Watch it and see if it creeps out as you start and stop the engine several times. Good luck , Jim Bailey

Re(5): Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 13, 2004 at 11:18:37 AM by Bill Guise

Thats interesting Jim, my cover does not have a "button". I can actually push the shaft forward, that's why I know there is a lot of movement. I have looked in the parts books and manuals for the button, but now I am not sure what is stock on my OC3. Will wait until my new bushing comes, then explore a bit more. Thanks for your input, Bill

Re(6): Magneto/governor

IP: 134.161.13.145 Posted on March 13, 2004 at 09:23:02 PM by Jim Bailey

Bill: The info in my former posting was from memory. I had that problem several years ago. I know I made a little bracket to clamp to the frame, that would keep that plug or button from being pushed forward by the governor shaft. It's still on there, and it totally cured the problem. I will look at it tomorrow and get back to you, if I see something else that might be pertinent. Jim

Re(7): Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 01:33:42 AM by Bill Guise

Thanks Jim, I can actually lube the shaft from the outside, so I know I can push on it.

Re(8): Magneto/governor

IP: 134.161.13.145 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 07:34:49 PM by jim bailey

Bill: I checked my HG governor today. The bushing is closed, or capped, on the outer end ,and that closed end is visible on the front of the governor housing. So evidently your shaft has worn clear thru the end cap of the bushing. My gov. bushing is not quite a snug, press fit in the housing, so the shaft tends to push it out,hence my little bracket to keep it in place. If your new bushing is a good, snug press fit, you should be good to go. Jim B.

Re(9): Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 08:58:36 PM by Bill Guise

As I said before...interesting. Your right, the shaft has worn the "button" off! Actually makes me feel good that it is the bushing that is the problem. Thanks for taking the time to check yours, the effort is appreciated. Will let you know the results when I get my new bushing from Zimmerman. Bill

Re(9): Magneto/governor

IP: 63.224.56.217 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 06:19:08 PM by Bill Guise

Got the governor cover bushing today from zimmerman, put it in, retimed it, and bang... away it went. Restarted it a dozen times to make sure, and all is well. The bushing has a face on it that protrudes out the back of the cover and is brass. The shaft did not wear through, the bushing simply broke off, thereby allowing too much travel. Thanks to everybody once again, regards, Bill Guise, Kent, WA

2255 oil leak

IP: 69.21.102.163 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 09:42:44 PM by Jay

I have a 2255 that is leaking trans oil into the bellhousing and onto the clutch. A local repair shop has pulled the engine and hydrapower twice and replaced all seals which did no good. It is gear oil from the trans. We replaced the pto shaft 1st time around due to worn splines at the flywheel end. Any ideas? Not many Oliver experts around this area in VA. Thanks, really enjoy your site.

Re(1): 2255 oil leak

IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 07:52:52 AM by Larry Harsin

It about has to be coming out of the hydraul. It must not have gotten all sealed up good yet. Larry

Re(1): 2255 oil leak

IP: 209.50.4.254 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 02:01:25 AM by bastar

2255 tractors have a seal at the rear of the transmission input shaft ( the one that the PTO passes through) to prevent lube oil from moving forward through input shaft and O/U drive into clutch. That seal could be your problem, it seals between the input shaft and PTO shaft. Seal could have been damaged during installation of long PTO shaft. This seal was not used on the early design tractors where the driveline ran uphill.

Re(1): 2255 oil leak

IP: 12.172.241.96 Posted on March 12, 2004 at 10:42:31 AM by m kuhns

We had the same problem with our 2255 and 2-150. You can replace the seal at the rear end of the input shaft through the hole where the hydraulic pump and drive is. The seal is in the nut at the rear of the input shaft which is easy to remove. Jack up a rear wheel with the transmission in gear and clutch disengaged. By rocking the rear wheel with a wrench on the nut, you can break it loose and spin it off. There is not enough room to move a wrench or ratchet through the hyd. pump hole. I think it is about 1 1/2 nut. There are also two different styles of this nut that hold the seal. I think one has an O- ring behind it, while the other one doesn't. Either way be sure to put LOCTITE on it when putting it back together to seal oil from seeping through the threads. Good luck!

1855 CAB

IP: 64.12.116.73 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 09:12:34 PM by JWB

LARRY, INSTALLING A CAB ON MY 1855, IT WAS A FACTORY CAB OFF A 2255, MY QUESTION IS REGARDEDS TO THE AIR COND., CAN I USE R134, OR DO I HAVE TO FIND R12?

Re(1): 1855 CAB

IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 07:51:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I would assume if it had an R12 in it, you would have to use that unless you had it retro-fitted to use an R134. Larry

Re(2): 1855 CAB

IP: 64.12.96.70 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 05:31:17 PM by Don-Wi

I would use the R 134A, the R 12 is 10 times more expensive(not exagerating) the old systems are drained& purged, adaptor fittings are mounted and then refilled with the new stuff. I would hate to see a bill for R 12. Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(3): 1855 CAB

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 15, 2004 at 00:38:24 AM by j ulmer

Re: A/C conversion Here in Texas you have to have a Technician's license for A/C work to buy R-12...anyone can walk in and get R-134. You can swap by cleaning the system and changing the oil in your compressor. There is a product I have used called Freeze-12 which is about the price of R-134, but we just put it in the old system after evacuating or add it to an existing R-12 system. We have not had good luck down here in West Texas with lots of heat with a straight R-134 change out as it doesn't cool as well. It requires more condensing coil volume and air area to get equivalent performance and runs higher pressure. I would see if your supplier can get you this other stuff to try. ju

1650

IP: 69.66.86.67 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 06:04:40 PM by Joe

I have an Oliver 1650 gas. I would like to put a diesel engine in it. Could you tell me what size Waukesha was in it originally, if a 1655 engine would fit, if you know of any other diesel engines that would work without a lot of converting, or if you know where I could find one.

Re(1): 1650

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 07:45:52 AM by Ron Wolf

Gas was 265 ci., diesel was 283 ci, both were rated at 66hp. Larry might have a source for an engine but otherwise you'll have to check all the local tractor boneyards. If you buy an engine, make sure you hear it run first and that you get a complete engine.

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 07:48:06 AM by Larry Harsin

The engine you are seeking is a 283 Waukesha. As far as availibility, I have no idea. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. I know of no other engine that would work without a lot of work. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 68.155.16.18 Posted on March 11, 2004 at 09:58:30 PM by George Steadman

Have put a motor out of a 1955 in a 1655 the biggest thing was using the 1650 clutch plate. The flywheel interchanged and the bellhousing fit as well. I would think the Waukeshaw's would be an easy swap.

1650 paint colour

IP: 209.50.74.129 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 09:53:42 PM by Paul (ONT)

HI Larry, I have a 1650 Cockshutt that needs a new paint job, but I was wondering what colour of paint to paint it. Is International Red close enough, or is Fire red more exact? Thanks for your time, Paul

Re(1): 1650 paint colour

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 00:25:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I would try the combine red from AGCO. The older Cockshutt red was Sherwin Williams JK8522 or Acme 3-C181684, but it is not quite the same. Sherry Schaefer has some paint codes on her website. I don't know if she has the one you need. Her website is: www.oliverinformation.com. Larry

Re(2): 1650 paint colour

IP: 209.50.74.83 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 08:06:32 AM by Paul (ONT)

Thanks Larry, I'll look that up. Paul

77 industrial w/backhoe&blade

IP: 206.72.54.200 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 08:22:43 PM by terry l hansen

would you know of any info on this. Jerry Beck of Royal,Iowa has one and we have been working on it for a long time with out any good info on it. His number is cell 260-1232. You might want to see this one, thank you, nice website.

Re(1): 77 industrial w/backhoe&blade

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 00:18:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get info from Charles City. They have Operator's Manual, Shop Manual and Parts Manual for it. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

power

IP: 66.35.139.202 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 02:37:56 PM by Brian Rotz

I am purchasing a super 77(diesel) with after market 3 point hitch, tractor runs great. Plowed and disced all day sunday. I want to know the horsepower of this tractor. I also noticed a small crack right under the valve cover vertically after degreasing tractor. Looks like it's been there many years. It does seep very little oil out of it. Is this going to be a major problem?

Re(1): power

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 00:15:25 AM by Larry Harsin

The S77 diesel will have approx. 43 HP. As long as the tractor works o.k, I wouldn't worry about the crack. Who knows how long it might last. Larry

Re(2): power

IP: 66.35.139.202 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 09:45:27 AM by Brian Rotz

Thanks Larry, Considered using marine tex repair or J.B. weld on it to stop the little seepage. I ran the tractor about 5 hours Sunday and couldn't notice any oil loss when I checked it. This Tractor has 7,465 hours on it. Is that a lot for this tractor or does it have plenty of life left with some TLC. All original parts in place and really no rust at all.

1949 Oliver 70 Paint

IP: 64.33.228.250 Posted on March 5, 2004 at 02:26:35 PM by Dan Duenwald

We have a 1949 Oliver 70 tractor to paint is there two colors and if so which color is right for this tractor.

Re(1): 1949 Oliver 70 Paint

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on March 6, 2004 at 07:02:40 AM by Larry Harsin

There were no 70's built in 1949. We are assuming you have a late production 70. The late 70's were painted Martin Senour 99L-8746 (green). It has red wheels and body stripe - Martin Senour red 99L-3752. The yellow for the grills was Dupont Dulux 029. Larry

Re(2): 1949 Oliver 70 Paint

IP: 160.36.200.254 Posted on March 8, 2004 at 12:28:33 PM by d c baker

I got the following from the Dumonts, Sigourney, IA, who have a museum of Olivers. Martin-Senour paint (NAPA) Green: 99L-8748 (They list the -8746 for 77's, etc.) By any chance were the 70's made in 1948 painted with 77 color? Red: 99L-3752 Yellow: 99L-11611 I painted as above, and it's purdy! The green seems as I remember it. It's darker than that for the 77's.

Re(3): 1949 Oliver 70 Paint

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on March 10, 2004 at 10:11:23 PM by Larry

According to the Paint codes listed at www.oliverinformation.com/paint.html, 99L-8746 Green was used from 1947 until 1951. This would get 47 & 48 Oliver 70's. 99l-3751 Green was used from 1952 & up.

770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 66.67.3.136 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 04:58:47 PM by Justin

Larry, I have a 770 with a gas motor - I fear that I may have a leaking head gasket. 1) When I start the tractor, it blows a mist out of the exhaust. The mist/droplets leave black dots on the hood. 2) When the engine is warm and working hard, the exhaust smells like burning coolant. 3) The oil level on the dipstick is about 1/2" above full and the oil looks awfully thin, but no white stuff. I just changed the oil and filter recently. The previous owner had the motor completely rebuilt (bored out) and it has been a great tractor - it still runs very well. I pulled all the plugs and they all looked similar (brownish, not "washed off" looking) A few months ago the float in the carb stuck open and filled the air intake hose and filter with fuel. I just tapped the bowl with a rock, and it seemed to seat fine. Is there anywhere else where oil and coolant could combine besides the head? Should I try a chemical sealer first before pulling the head off, or is that a waste of effort? This seemed to start this winter when the tractor was being plugged in at night. For a couple of days, it was leaking coolant, I figured this was just expansion of the coolant from being plugged in all night - I expected that the electric block heater was getting the coolant warmer than the actual engine ever did.

Re(1): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 05:48:07 PM by Ron Wolf

1) Perfectly normal, it's just unburned fuel. 2) It's burning coolant. 3) Drain out a small amount of oil into a glass jar, let it sit, oil floats on water and any coolant will be obvious. 4) Sealers don't work. 5) No block heater can generate heat even close to actual engine operation. 6) The only positive test is a cylinder leakdown test. It takes shop air and a special tool. Any mechanic can do it for you. 7) Head gaskets don't go bad. What happens is that the engine overheats, warps the head, possibly cracking it, and the movement of the head tore the head gasket. 8) The leakdown test is conclusive proof of where the problem lies. If the head must come off, it must be checked for cracks, be resurfaced, and then reinstalled with the correct new gasket and new bolts. 9) Remember, leaks can go two ways. Coolant can leak into the oil when the engine is off. Compression can leak into the coolant when the engine is running... you may see bubbles in the coolant with the cap off and engine running. 10) The fact that it leaked coolant when you had the block heater on means it also leaked coolant when the engine was running, hence the overheating. Coolant leaks are always an emergency and require the engine be shutdown until the cause is identified and fixed.

Re(2): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 67.2.249.103 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 11:33:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I have nothing to add. This is an excellent answer. Larry

Re(3): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 66.67.3.136 Posted on March 7, 2004 at 02:22:14 PM by Justin

I just did a compression check: Warm Engine Fuel Turned Off Coil Wire Pulled All Spark Plugs Removed Good Charged Battery Starting with the rear cylinder (closest to the steering wheel) I got readings of 170, 160, 160, 165, 165, 165 Not sure what an acceptable reading is on this motor, or how much of a variance between cylinders is allowed. If these are all within an acceptable level, can I rule out a head gasket problem? I know a vaccuum leakdown test was suggested. I don't have that equipment, but can do a compression check. How quickly should I expect pressure to drop when I stop cranking? I guess the main reason I am concerned is the mist that comes out the exhaust when the tractor is started. It's very brief - only about a second. The tractor has a hard life - it pulls a 350 bushel manure spreader through a 26 stall horse barn. It gets started every morning, driven about 100 feet into the barn, shut off, then started and moved about 20 feet before being shut down again. This is repeated about 5 times, then it goes out to spread manure and finally gets a chance to warm up before being put away. To me that's a lousy way to treat an engine - it gets started six times for about 30 minutes of total run time for the day. Are my concerns valid, or is this a condensation issue due to the way the tractor is used? I pulled an oil sample - not seeing any separation yet - sampled from the bottom of the pan. Will probably send it out for an evaluation.

Re(4): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on March 7, 2004 at 10:00:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I'd wait and see what the oil sample tests say. Your compression sounds alright. I'd be inclined to use it as is until getting the oil sample test. Yes, turning it on and off like that isn't the best way for the tractor. Larry

Re(4): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 8, 2004 at 07:20:21 AM by Ron Wolf

1) In your original post you said the cooling system leaked and was not repaired. This will cause the engine to overheat. You also said the oil level was unexplainably too high and the exhaust smelled like coolant. These are classic signs of coolant leaking into the cylinders and then the crankcase. 2) Compression testing shows the condition of the rings and valves. Yours seem fine but your question "How quickly should I expect pressure to drop when I stop cranking?" tells me your gauge isn't working or you aren't using it correctly. All compression gauges simply record the highest pressure they see until you push the button the zero the gauge. 3) A compression test is not a replacement for a cylinder leakdown test. Nor is a leakdown test a vacuum test; it is a pressure test. Each cylinder is pressurized and the rate of leakage (leakdown) is measured over time. The escaping air can be heard and tells you exactly where the leak is. 4) Given that coolant in the crankcase will quickly destroy the bearings and that leaks always get worse, never better, I'd park it until I found and fixed the problem.

Re(5): 770 Gas - Possible Head Gasket Leak?

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 10:32:16 PM by J Ulmer

I've got a friend who is a 55 year old bachelor who has been a heavy diesel mechanic with one Mack dealership for over thirty years. He drives old cars his family has had for just as long but he takes care of them (the kind that has no paint but the rust is polished through and shines) His operating method might help. Instead of cold starting your tractor six times do like Mike does before going to work and returning home. Start it and let it warm up outside before you drive it into the barn. It shouldn't cool down for your interim moves and will start easier as well. Then when you head out to work it has warmed the parts together for their "working" fit. Not challenging anything about "sealers" and with no specific knowledge of Oliver motors I can tell you that I have acquired a number of Detroit Diesels in old dirt equipment and Detroits are famous for getting hot and cracking their heads resulting in racial mixing of the coolant and lubricant. Several years back my Dad got a 1958 Huber-Warco with a 4-71 Detroit really hot when the 40 year old radiator sprung a leak while he was transporting down the Highway. After putting on a new radiator (Hart Heat Transfer products in Houston recognized the radiator from its Dimensions!! and called out the Harris part number. they can solve ANY radiator problem in their shops. They supply stuff for Stewart-Stevenson even) But as to the cracked head an older guy suggested sodium-silicate (liquid glass) as a possible get by until I could replace the head> I drained the system, flushed it, treated it, and tried it and it ran well pulling full loads for a long,long time. I've seen Larry's comments to guys that lots of Oliver heads will have cracks. Ya'll may know why they can't get by with a temporary fix... I know it gets way colder up there in the deep freeze than down here in the ice box/oven of west Texas. ju

1800 Diesel

IP: 139.78.254.158 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 08:56:59 AM by Jason

Hello Larry, I have a 1962 1800 diesel. It has a two piece head, and the top part of the head is cracked. I was wondering if you knew someone who might have this piece? I am thinking about converting to a later head with pencil injectors. What all has to be done and will my existing pump still work with those injectors? Thanks for all your help.

Re(1): 1800 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.103 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 11:28:23 PM by Larry Harsin

That top piece is not made to fit with another head. That is all made together and not made to interchange with other parts. You should check with Valu-Bilt for a replacement head. 888-828-3276. I don't think you can convert that engine to the pencil type injectors. A better choice would be to buy a complete engine - like a 1655 engine or a 1750 engine - to accompolish this. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Diesel

IP: 139.78.254.158 Posted on March 8, 2004 at 08:48:20 AM by Jason

Thanks Larry, I have been looking at another later model engine to install. Everyone says to update and not reuse that old style engine.

1855 PTO shaft

IP: 63.164.213.161 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 08:38:11 AM by Dave brandon

Larry I am replacing the clutch for a friend and have trouble getting the pto shaft out the back. I pulled the snap ring and the plug and the "o" ring, then with a 1/2 inch rod screwed into the shaft and like the book says"pull the shaft out". It comes out about a foot(just the splines showing) and stops. Kind of a mushey stop like it was hitting a clutch plate spline. Is there something I am not doing right?? dave

Re(1): 1855 PTO shaft

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 12:30:28 PM by Larry from MD

This is very common, just keep turning and pulling untill it comes.The splines have to come through the drive for the hydraulic pump.

Re(1): 1855 PTO shaft

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 8, 2004 at 10:17:44 AM by Shep VA

I have had this problem many times. Put a pipe wrench on the 540 PTO shaft and let it go back around to the drawbar. Then put a bolt in the end of the long shaft and use an impact wrench very carefully and turn the saft and pull out at the same time with the impact wrench turning the shaft. The shaking of the impact wrench allows the clutch plates to line up so the shaft can come out. Make sure the 540 shaft is not moving while you are doing this. This normally takes two people, but this method has never failed to let a PTO shaft come out yet. Good luck

Re(1): 1855 PTO shaft

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 10:01:08 PM by J Ulmer

they are both sending you in the right direction. My 282 Hancock scraper (with 1950 power unit) doesn't have the hydraulics under the seat at the rear over the rear end. It has a pump infront of the engine driving off the front pulley via a coupler. In removing the PTO shaft to get out of the clutch toremove engine and clutch, I also had hang up problems. As there is no pump in mine it was definitely PTO clutch spline alignments. We used a small slide hammer to bump the shaft outward gently while turning the PTO that goes into the gearbox driving the elevator chain which got the splines lined up. I may try vibrating it with the impact when I go into it to work on my tranny problems when I get caught up. Lots of Luck!!

2150 transmission

IP: 206.72.28.90 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 10:31:11 PM by Erik

Larry, I think I have a transmission problem. I have a 2150 MFD. I was backing up with the loader down smoothing out mud, trying to help it dry out when I heard a bang and everything went dead. I stepped on the clutch and it started right up. With the Shifter in nuetral it goes forward. With the shifter in gear it acts like it is locked in 2 gears. I would appreciate any ideas. Will remove the shifter tommorrow. The shifter had a shake in it prior to the bang.

Re(1): 2150 transmission

IP: 67.2.249.11 Posted on March 3, 2004 at 08:09:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing that comes to my mind would be a lubrication failure on the top shaft. It may have run out of grease or the pump quit working or something. You are going to have to look in there and see what happened. Larry

Re(2): 2150 transmission

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 3, 2004 at 11:26:03 AM by Larry from MD

My vote would be for a broken shift fork.

Re(3): 2150 transmission

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 7, 2004 at 00:14:25 AM by j ulmer

Sounds like my Hanco#k scraper with a Oliver 1950 power unit only mine was going forward at the time and now it runs backward in neutral and locks down if put into any gear. It is still not apart , but it was not shift rails or forks. I fear the low/no oil pressure showing on the pressure gauge was accurate rather than a defective gauge and loss of lubrication siezed an idler gear onto a shaft. By blocking the wheels up and disconnecting the drive shaft to the front wheels you can disengage the clutch and rock the wheels and start isolating (via letting out the clutch and engagine it) {all this manually without the motor running) until you see if something has welded together somewhere it shouldn't have. Lots of luck. Jerry

Oliver 66/88 Hydraulic Swap

IP: 69.88.205.199 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:26:10 PM by Bruce

Are there any problems taking the hydraulic unit including the PTO shaft from an 88 and installing it on a 66?

Re(1): Oliver 66/88 Hydraulic Swap

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:32:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The pump is 1/4" wider on an 88 than on a 66. I have done this. It is a LOT of work. I had to remove or grind off metal from the ends of the pump drive gear where they stuck out of the pump housing. I also had to go down into the trans of the tractor and grind away some of the transmission housings to allow room. Larry

550 trans oil

IP: 209.206.129.50 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 05:37:34 PM by Phil Leach

Larry, thanks much for your site I've learned alot. My son is repairing tranny for a 59 550, he is on final assembly ready for oil. We have a 1975 operators manual which calls for 10w30 oil. I called local oliver dealer; his specs call for 80-90 gear lube. What do you think?? Thanks again Phil

Re(1): 550 trans oil

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:28:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I would go with the 80-90 gear lube. Larry

Oliver #26 Seed Drill

IP: 198.20.51.134 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 04:06:05 PM by John M

Larry,My seeding rate chart mentions two types of reducer plates for drilling soys.(E-897 & EE-623) Are these used to block off runs for rows >7" or are they required for each run ? ( I`ve never drilled soys with this drill before )

Re(1): Oliver #26 Seed Drill

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:26:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I have never drilled beans with ours either. Larry

880 Engine

IP: 205.213.111.50 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 03:53:44 PM by Tom C

My brother has an 880, good tin/paint with a cracked engine. Mechanic says $2000 to fix. Any other ideas? Any motors out there? As salvage what is it worth?

Re(1): 880 Engine

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:23:55 PM by Larry Harsin

For an engine, you can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Doug Johnson 319-347-6332. It is hard to say salvage value as we don't know how it is equipped (wide front? Power steering? Tire quality? etc). Larry

66 speed

IP: 64.91.148.130 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 10:03:35 AM by Ralph

Hi does anyone know what the rated speed (mph) of each gear is on an oliver 66. I have stock tires on this machine. Thanks, Ralph

Re(1): 66 speed

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:13:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. It will give you all of that information and much more. Email the Museum at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

oc4 radiator

IP: 69.10.197.171 Posted on March 1, 2004 at 09:45:18 PM by Darryn

where is the best place to purchase a radiator for an Oliver OC4 crawler. The tag on the radiator says "McCord Corporation Detroit, Mich. No.726J56 Made in USA

Re(1): oc4 radiator

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:11:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Zimmerman Cletrac in Ephrata PA. Email: zoc@att.net Phone: 717-738-2573. Larry

oliver mfd

IP: 204.96.181.71 Posted on March 1, 2004 at 03:54:55 PM by Dave Hamblen

Larry. In the next year I am thinking about buying a mfd. I would like to find a 1950,2050,or 2150. Do you ever hear of or see any of these around. I am from Dunlap,IA and would like to restore as well as use one.

Re(1): oliver mfd

IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on March 1, 2004 at 05:29:45 PM by Neal

I just bought a 2150 mfd saturday. Hard to find a good one that is priced reasonable. I know where there are a few more of these. There is a 2150 ####shutt mfd in New York for $5000.00 in relatively good shape.

Re(2): oliver mfd

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:09:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any of those tractors that are available at the present time. Larry

77rc

IP: 131.151.84.189 Posted on March 1, 2004 at 10:42:12 AM by Gary Abbott

Hi Larry, I have a couple questions for you. 1. What are you using for lubricant in the hubs of a row crop? the manual says semi-fluid grease. 2. My steering box is leaking oil down the steering post, can the seal in the bottom of the gear box be changed without removing the steering post from the tractor? If so, can the seal be installed by removing the sector gear from the top? Thanks Gary

Re(1): 77rc

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 07:06:38 PM by Larry Harsin

1. I use lithium gun grease. 2. Yes, it can be changed without removing the steering post, but you will have to remove the radiator etc etc. What I use is John Deere corn head grease in that gear box and it stays in pretty good. Yes, the seal can be installed by removing the ssector gear from the top. A new "O" ring is what it will take. This will also take a lot of disassembly. If you use the corn head grease, it will stay in there and it will save a lot of work. Larry

1750 hydraulics

IP: 204.96.181.71 Posted on February 29, 2004 at 06:59:43 PM by dave hamblen

I have a westendorf loader on my 1750 and when I raise or lower the loader the hydraulic system chatters and the loader jerks. Just wondering what the problem could be. The three point works fine so I think the pump should be fine.

Re(1): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on March 1, 2004 at 05:55:40 AM by Ron Wolf

The interlock bleed screw, bypass valve and restrictor valve must all be set correctly or this exact problem will happen. The Operator's Manual covers how to set them.

Re(2): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 06:59:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You can install a 2 spool valve to the power beyond port and eliminate all of these problems. Larry

1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 69.66.85.44 Posted on February 29, 2004 at 11:51:36 AM by MJ

I have a 1650 that has had tons done to it. It is practically a new tractor. When it idles it runs fine, but when I go to push the throttle forward, it wants to cut out and die, if I choke it, it will come back and run. If I open it wide open, it misses a sputters and just won't run right at all. I have been through the carb twice and replaced and cleaned everthing I know to do. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on February 29, 2004 at 02:15:51 PM by Ron Wolf

Start with the mixture screws in the right place. Should be idle (small)=1.75 turns out and high-speed (large)=3.25 turns out. Now put your vacuum gauge on it. You can tap into the intake manifold where the vacuum line is for the distributor. If you don't see 18" or better at idle, you have a vacuum leak. If it's leaking, spray carburetor cleaner around each intake port at the head and at the carburetor base at the manifold while she's running. Any change in speed/sound tells you you've found the leak. Could be cracked/warped manifold, bad gasket, wrong torque value on bolts. etc. If vacuum is OK, be absolutely certain you have the correct jets in the carburetor, the gas is free of water, you have a clean filter in the gas line, the correct VENTED gas cap is being used, there are no kinks/dents in the gas line, etc. In case she runs fine with the vacuum gauge on her but messes up when you reinstall the vacuum line to the distributor, the vacuum advance diaphragm has a hole in it.. You don't need it. Just put a 1/8" pipe plug in the hole in the manifold where you tapped in for the vacuum gauge.

Re(1): 1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 69.66.85.44 Posted on February 29, 2004 at 11:53:01 AM by MJ

That should be 1650. Also, I heard someone mention something about the thermostat once and a problem similar to this. Could that be a possibility??

Re(2): 1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 06:57:52 PM by Larry Harsin

In addition to all this other info, I would remove the fuel strainer from the fuel tank and make sure there is no obstruction in there. Larry

Re(3): 1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 6, 2004 at 11:54:58 PM by j Ulmer

If all this fails and it still acts like it is starving for fuel it could be like the little old lady's car a mechanic friend had. He replaced fuel pump, filters, overhauled carb, blew out lines and it would still stall out after running. He drained the fuel tank and dropped it out of the car and found one of those little white seals off a fuel additive bottle sucked onto the fuel sending unit!!! I have always been VERY careful with those ever since. You could have a similiar floating obstruction in your fuel tank which will starve your fuel supply Good Luck!! Jerry

Re(4): 1605 Won't Accelerate

IP: 69.66.86.161 Posted on March 9, 2004 at 10:37:09 PM by MJ

Thank you all for your help. I will give these things a shot. Is there any chance at all there is an issue with ignition on this?

550 diesel glow plug

IP: 65.41.131.65 Posted on February 26, 2004 at 08:59:06 AM by Dillard McMahan

I need to replace front glow plug on my 550, and noticed the front and back plugs seem to be different sizes. Do you know where I can get the plug and are they suppose to be different?

Re(1): 550 diesel glow plug

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 26, 2004 at 12:15:16 PM by Larry from MD

WHAT? oliver 550's don't have glow plugs.Post back with more info on what you are talking about.

Re(1): 550 diesel glow plug

IP: 207.144.87.96 Posted on February 27, 2004 at 07:02:55 PM by J. Mash

You must be talking about one of the air preheaters, 550 diesels have two.Both of them are the same size on our 550.E-mail me if I can help.

Re(1): 550 diesel glow plug

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 06:53:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

wheels

IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on February 25, 2004 at 02:46:07 PM by neal

I am looking for a set of rims and tires for a 570 super Cockshutt. (18.4-34) I am an Oliver man but this project fell into my lap and I couldn't pass it up. Let me know if you have somthing that might work. Thanks

Re(1): wheels

IP: 64.91.68.47 Posted on February 25, 2004 at 04:23:30 PM by Ron Wolf

See www.millertire.com

Re(1): wheels

IP: 67.32.74.71 Posted on February 29, 2004 at 10:51:09 AM by George Steadman

Are you wanting pressed steel wheels or cast iron centers bolted in? I have the cast and can probably get a set of pressed steel.

Re(1): wheels

IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on March 3, 2004 at 11:58:29 AM by Neal

I need the steel rims. I don't know if IH rims will work. Please let me know

oliver 66 parts

IP: 65.128.196.65 Posted on February 24, 2004 at 07:55:46 PM by mark

I am looking for a place to buy engine rebuild kit. Complete kit. I have been loking at a catalog, it has 66 and super 66 all listed as the same kit, is this correct. My 66 is 1950 serial # 425903c66c as best as I can read the numbers. They are on a tag down on the right side of the trany. Also cost of about $1000.00 for total kit. Is this about the going price.

Re(1): oliver 66 parts

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on March 2, 2004 at 06:49:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you should check with Korves Bros. for their price. Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry

88 diesel

IP: 216.138.55.108 Posted on February 22, 2004 at 05:59:50 PM by chuck brammeier

hello larry, i am in deep trouble. finally got the head off of my 1950 88 standard. guess what? not only is the head cracked, but the block is cracked between the 2nd and 3rd, 3rd and 4th, and 4th and 5th cylinders. do you have bare blocks that are still just 88 blocks? i really don't want to use a super or three didgit tractors block. and, do you have a head of the same era? hope you can help thanks chuck

Re(1): 88 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on February 22, 2004 at 08:30:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I do have one identical to what you have. I think I have both a block and a head. We are leaving for the National Oliver Meeting in PA in the morning, so I won't be able to check for these til I get back approx Mar 3. Was your engine leaking antifreeze into the crank case? Also, with the cracked head, was antifreeze leaking into the cylinders through the cylinder head? You may not need to spend as much money as you think. Call me when I get back home. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 11A manure spreader

IP: 24.83.181.225 Posted on February 22, 2004 at 12:39:30 PM by Super 55

Larry, there is an Oliver manure spreader for sale in one of the local papers. I haven't looked at it yet, and I am thinking I would like to restore it to show with my Super 55. If it is in good condition what would a fair price be for it? I was looking at a picture of it from an old HPOCA magazine and it looks to be a matching size for the Super 55.

Re(1): Oliver 11A manure spreader

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on February 22, 2004 at 08:24:03 PM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to say what is a fair price. If it is restorable, I'd guess in the neighborhood of $200 - $250, but this is just a guess. I don't know. Larry

Another question for Larry

IP: 216.185.72.190 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 08:42:31 PM by Paul (ont)

HI Larry- sorry to bother you again!! I have a wet-sleeve in my IH B-250 engine that won't come out- there's nothing to grab on b/c the bottom flange on the sleeve has broken off. Any suggestions as how to get this sleeve out?? I'd heard that you could use a welder to crack the sleeve + pull it out, but I wanted to check with you before I burn the sleeve into the block for good. Any ideas would be great!!

Re(1): Another question for Larry

IP: 67.2.248.30 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 11:07:32 PM by Larry Harsin

If I were you, I would consult a machinest who is more familiar to that engine. Talk to an IH Mechanic. I'd be reluctant to use the welder without asking someone who knew. Larry

Re(2): Another question for Larry

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 22, 2004 at 12:54:26 PM by Larry from MD

If you try a welder try not to burn through.You just weld a bead around the inside the sleeve and that will shrink it.

Re(3): Another question for Larry

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 6, 2004 at 11:38:28 PM by julmer

i've been off working a couple of weeks and just came down to see how their trip went when I saw your problem. We have broken a siezed (via rust and corrosion) sleeve by shrinking it with cold (sort of the opposite of heating around the outside of a bearing on a shaft to make it larger) by wedging a bottom in the sleeve (a circle of thick polystyrene foam insulation) and filling the bore with dry ice. Be careful as touching the dry ice will burn (freeze) bare skin. When the sleeve isdrawn into a smaller diameter try jaring soundly and it may break loose. If one side is packed with a good long piece of dry ice held against it you can sometimes shatter it with a sharp blow with a punch (blunt) struck sharply at an angle across the bore. Good luck!!

1755 hydraulics

IP: 209.191.198.107 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 08:10:55 AM by John Ungerecht

Have a 1755 that when I hook up to my 12 wheel hay rake the hydraulics lock up soon as I hit the control to widen or lift. Was told new couplers would solve the problem but no luck. Has pioneer couplers on it. Thanks

Re(1): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 12:53:46 PM by Larry from MD

One thing i have seen is people used to using other make tractors try to hook the hoses crossways for each set.On olivers you need to hook them vertically

1900A GM

IP: 68.47.32.35 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 09:28:31 PM by David

I've seen both stickers and the metal strip OLIVER 1900 names on hoods. I bought one that has the stickers on the side instead of the metal strips. How hard would it be to find the metal strips to replace the stickers? Did they come both ways in the same year? Thanks, David

Re(1): 1900A GM

IP: 67.2.248.222 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 00:42:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Possibly they came both ways in the same year when they were transitioning from the A series to the B series. The A had the sticker decals and the B had the bar with the decal on it. Check with Worthington Tractor Salvage 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts (salvage) 800-831-8543 for the strips. You may have to replace the decal on them. Larry

Energy cell improvements?

IP: 207.69.137.22 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 04:50:51 PM by Mel Fuelling

Larry, Do you know of anyone that has looked for and/or found improvements in the energy cells used in the Lanova style heads on the Oliver diesels?

Re(1): Energy cell improvements?

IP: 67.2.248.222 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 00:37:19 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There is no change in them. Larry

880 transmission

IP: 24.151.99.13 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 05:56:52 AM by Alan Clapp

Hi Larry What was the Oliver #102 082A Oil Additive recomended for use with 10-30 oil in transmissions?

Re(1): 880 transmission

IP: 67.2.248.222 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 00:35:45 AM by Larry Harsin

That was for the power-booster drive. That additive is no longer available. If you are still using the power-booster drive, I would reccommend using International Hy-Tran. If you don't have the power-booster drive, I would reccommend the 80-90 transmission grease. Larry

550 Wheel Weights

IP: 68.42.147.52 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:46:00 PM by Patrick

I just bought an Oliver [####schutt] 550 this week. It came with a factory loader (Oliver 588?). They dropped it off yesterday and I can't even drive it around the barn yard. The back wheels just spin. I pulled it onto my concrete pad, 4" of snow, spins. Pulled it out to the field hoping to get it moving enough to pull into the barn, just spun. I had a 5' bush hog on the back and the tires are filled with liquid. I've been told that the way to go is with wheel weights. Using a concrete block off the 3 pt is fine as a counterbalance when hauling dirt, but if I can't roll around the yard without a thousand pounds off the backend, this tractor is useless. What recommendations would you make? Cast iron wheel weights? How would those affect plowing or grading? How much weight would they bring to my backend? Thanks and keep up with the great website, Patrick PS. Kind of strange that an Oliver website censors a common brand name. See the #'s above?

Re(1): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 67.2.248.24 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 11:18:00 PM by Larry Harsin

About the only thing you can do is install wheel weights. Two sets of wheel weights would probably give you 450 - 500 lbs and that would help. You will need all of the weight you can put on the rear. I think 2 sets will be the limit. As to your PS: When we first began this website, some school kids found it and were having fun putting filth on it. Thus we put a "screen" to keep this out. Therefore, it screens out as you say. If you print it as c#ckshutt or something like that, I think it may print it. Larry

Re(1): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 11:42:35 AM by karl

How about getting a set of chains for the rear tires? I was having the same problem with my 1655 and it has fluid in the rear tires. I borrowed my Dad's 40 year old set of chains (medium duty style)and now it's like a different machine. A very useful machine. Larry, will I have any problems with my tractor because I am using chains?

Re(1): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 03:39:31 PM by Ron Wolf

Any tread on the tires? New, sharp tires let me plow in everything from ice to deep snow. No chains, no weights.

Re(2): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 207.144.98.135 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 06:09:33 PM by J. Mash

We have two 550's on our farm. One has been here 40 years.I can tell you chains with ice cleats make all the difference in snow and ice.

Re(1): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 68.42.147.52 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 11:20:13 PM by Patrick

Thanks for all the info. The tires are at about 40%; not bad, not great. I think chains would definately help in the ice. Larry mentions weight at around 500 pounds. Now, I have no idea what a 5' bush hog weighs, but I had one hanging off the backend and that seemed to make no difference at all. Larry is the expert, so I respect the opinion. But, I'm curious if a hog makes no difference how 500lb of wheel weights would make. I'm curious what people think. But, they are probably the best bang for the buck. Can anyone suggest a source of wheel weights? Considering I just bought the tractor, I will need something at a reasonable price, hopefully somewhere with a couple hours of South East Michigan. What can I expect to pay?

Re(2): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 67.2.248.222 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 00:31:54 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You will not have any problems with chains. I reccommend using chains if needed in addition to wheel weights. Larry

Re(2): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 67.74.208.143 Posted on February 24, 2004 at 09:41:44 PM by Tom

When it comes to driving tractors on snow covered ground there is only one way to go. Chains, any style will do. I use a JD 310A back hoe everyday of the year. And in snow season the chains go on. The first set lasted 8 years on my gravel roads, I take them off after mud season. The tractor has a 17' hoe on the back, it must weigh a lot more than 2 sets of 550 rr. weights and the tractor can only drive over new snow once "without" the chains or it will spin and I'm stuck. With the chains, I can put 1.3+ tons of gravel in the front bucket and backup any hill with any amt. of snow on the ground. It's not the tractor or amt. of weights , it's just chains.

Re(2): 550 Wheel Weights

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on February 26, 2004 at 11:33:07 AM by julmer

Once you drive over snow the weight packs and melts it into ice which won't grab any rubber tire. The guys with chains have it doped out. My bro-in-law runs a wrecker service down here in texas where snow is unusual, but he ALWAYS puts a set of chains on to work when snow is forecast. Weight alone won't cut it because you need bite in the ice. Hope his experience and the other guys help you!!

How do you adjust a 1650 clutch??

IP: 216.185.72.120 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:45:50 PM by Paul (ONT)

Hi Larry, I have a clutch on my 1650 d that I think is "grabbing" too near the top to suit me- when the clutch was younger it would grab near the bottom. Today the clutch has over 9500 hrs on it, but its still in very good cond- and I'd like to keep it that way....... The manual (yes I have one :D) states that adjusting the clutch free-pedal travel is the thing to do, but it really doesn't seem to fix the problem. I looked into the clutch viewing plate and there seem to be a couple bolts that look as if they could possibly be used to "tighten up the clutch"?? If you could shed some light on this I'd really appreciate it- I don't like the thought of my clutch burning up under load! Thanks a lot Larry - Paul

Re(1): How do you adjust a 1650 clutch??

IP: 67.2.248.24 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 11:10:56 PM by Larry Harsin

About the only thing you can adjust on that is the "free travel" as the Operator's Manual says. There are no adjustments that can be made through that "viewing plate". I feel that sometime in the near future, you will probably have to pull your clutch apart and repair as needed. Larry

Re(1): How do you adjust a 1650 clutch??

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 20, 2004 at 08:30:23 AM by Ron Wolf

They are designed to wear so like Larry said, you'll be replacing it sooner or later. I have >10K hours on my 1650. The secret to keep it adjusted per the manual and not "ride" the pedal. If it's starting to slip and adjusting it doesn't help, it's time to replace it.

Re(1): How do you adjust a 1650 clutch??

IP: 216.185.72.190 Posted on February 21, 2004 at 08:39:42 PM by Paul (ONT)

Thanks alot Larry and Ron- I tried that and its stopped slipping, it still "grabs" a bit hight to me, but then thats what comes of having a 9000hr + clutch.

1650 hydraulics

IP: 169.207.216.58 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:07:14 AM by william disher

larry, i have an oliver 1650. the 3 point cycles (hic-cups) when under load, what causes this? thanks

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:33:16 AM by Larry Harsin

It can be one of two or three things. 1. It can be worn "O" rings on the lift piston. 2. It could be a ball check in the servo valve that is stuck. 3. Or it could be a cracked relief valve elbow on the lift cylinder. Larry

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 03:21:10 PM by Ron Wolf

The interlock bleed screw, bypass valve, and restrictor valve must all be set correctly or this exact problem will happen. The Operator's Manual covers how to set them.

Magazine Article

IP: 24.83.181.225 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 01:15:26 AM by Super 55

Larry, I read you are going to be writing a column for a magazine. Is it going to be a question and answer type of column?

Re(1): Magazine Article

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:28:36 AM by Larry Harsin

It is set up that Sherry will take questions and answers from our "Ask the Oliver Mechanic" website and put them in the magazine. Many collectors do not have internet. Larry

77 serial #

IP: 204.184.28.192 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 11:47:04 PM by Bobby

Larry I just purchased a Row Crop 77 the serial number is 342439c77d I was wondering what year it was a and how many drawbar hp it should have and what cid the engine is thanks in advance. Bobby

Re(1): 77 serial #

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:25:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 77 was built in 1951. It was built with 36 hp on the belt and 32 hp on the drawbar. It was originally built with 194 cid. Most of these tractors have been overhauled and converted to 216 cid. Larry

radiator cap psi

IP: 137.128.252.251 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 09:58:17 AM by Terry Hoist

Larry, My 550 radiator cap appears to be very weak. When I top off the radiator and the engine heats up, about a quart or so squirts out from the cap. What is the correct cap psi? Regards, T. hoist

Re(1): radiator cap psi

IP: 216.74.205.146 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 11:39:46 AM by RogerM

Not sure on a 550, but my Super 55 uses a non-pressure cap. All it does is keep the coolant from splashing out.

Re(1): radiator cap psi

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 02:11:29 PM by Ron Wolf

Your cap is working perfectly. If it failed to allow the hot expanding coolant to vent to the outside you would have a split radiator tank, sudden loss of all coolant, and a seriously overheated and maybe destroyed engine. Best way to fill these non-recovery systems is to pour coolant in until it just covers the tops of the tubes. If it then vents a small amount of coolant, do not replace it.

Re(2): radiator cap psi

IP: 207.144.98.154 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 10:39:52 PM by Johnny

Roger is correct. We have two 550's on our farm. Fill it just above the cores after getting your 550 up to operating temp.

Re(2): radiator cap psi

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 08:22:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Your correct level is just above the tubes when the engine is warmed up. I believe it is a 4 lb cap on that radiator. Somewhere on the underside of the radiator cap, it will be stamped with a 4. Larry

1800A Fenders

IP: 172.131.7.122 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 04:46:07 PM by Dennis

Hi Larry, This tractor is also missing the fenders so am wondering what it would likely cost me to replace them if I can find them. I am starting to think I should find another one to just scavenge parts from. Your opinion?

Re(1): 1800A Fenders

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on February 18, 2004 at 00:48:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is a good idea to find another one for parts. It is hard to find nice fenders for this tractor. Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Fleetline 6V bulbs

IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on February 16, 2004 at 10:49:43 AM by CP

Larry, Will these 6V light bulbs work with my Oliver 66 5 3/4" lights (not sealed)? Westinghouse Mazda Lamp No. 1000 32 - 32 C.P. 6-8 Volts D.C. base Or is there any particular bulb number that I should be looking for?

Re(1): Fleetline 6V bulbs

IP: 67.2.248.250 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 08:47:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I think what you have should work. If they fit, they will work. If they won't fit, contact Korves Bros. for the regular ones. 618-939-6681 or email: korves@htc.net. Larry

white/Cockshutt backhoe

IP: 198.166.214.5 Posted on February 16, 2004 at 10:32:01 AM by george

Larry ,i've heard of a backhoe for sale and am trying to find some info on it. it's a 4 15 78 model 4wheel drive 6 cyl diesel . is this backhoe a agriculture tractor or a completely different industrial unit? what are its weak points ? i understand it uses a swing motor on the hoe like MF backhoes use. what years were they made .thanks george

Re(1): white/Cockshutt backhoe

IP: 67.2.248.250 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 08:44:33 AM by Larry Harsin

It's probably a Front Wheel Assist, Industrial version of the 1650 tractor. I'm not sure who manufactured the hoe and the loader. Charles City may have the info on the hoe and loader. Email Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Oliver disk parts

IP: 199.217.187.124 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 03:34:41 PM by TOM B

i have a oliver 18ft. disk that i need some scrapers for.the best i remember it is a mod. 463 or 493 i know that Ford had a disk that looked just like it. can anyone tell me where to get some scrapers or a parts # thanks for any help.

Re(1): Oliver disk parts

IP: 67.2.248.250 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 08:40:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 steering

IP: 64.33.144.224 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 08:24:50 AM by Mark

I have a 1968 1650 diesel. It started out the winter with the steering wheel not being able to move when it got below freezing. I had read somewhere that it was probably water in the column. I sprayed some de-icer down between the shafts and it worked for some time but yesterday it started to leak fluid out the steering wheel. It started with a drip and within a matter of minutes it was pouring out. Is there just a seal in there or is it down in the steering motor? And what is the best way to get at it, from the dash or pull the fuel tank out of the way? Any advice would be welcome. Thank you

Re(1): 1650 steering

IP: 67.2.248.250 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 08:38:35 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to go through the dash. Disconnect the oil pressure line and some wiring and pull the dash up off of the steering column after you remove the steering wheel. The seal will probably have to be replaced. It is held in there with a snap ring. Check with your AGCO Dealer for the availability of the seal. I'd also replace the snap ring. If your AGCO Dealer does not have the seal and snap ring, check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. You will probably have to remove the steering wheel support shaft when you do this. It clamps onto the splines of the hydra motor with a tapered nut and a ball. Larry

Re(1): 1650 steering

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 10:58:47 PM by j ulmer

When you pull the seal out carefully examine it for stenciled or imprinted numbers. John Deere has their suppliers put a JD # on bearings, seals, and stuff, but lots of times other mfgs used stuff out of the bearing suppliers boxes and you might be able to cross through an industrial bearing house. IBT out of Shawnee Kansas has outlets all over the country and if you dont damage it severely those guys can measure your old seal and match it out of their books. It may not be on their shelf, but with computers they'll tell you they have 2 in california, one in florida and will get it how ever expiediently you want to pay (ie overnite air or slower and cheaper through store transfer) Don't know your location, but hope this helps ju

1800A ignition switch

IP: 172.161.19.253 Posted on February 14, 2004 at 10:08:39 AM by Dennis

Hi Larry, The problem with the starter motor seems to be located in the ignition switch mess that has been installed in this tractor. A 6 volt pushbutton switch was put in combination with an on/off keyed switch. The wiring is a nightmare. Anyway, now I need to locate a standard keyed ignition. Do you have one or where should I look for one. Thanks.

Re(1): 1800A ignition switch

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 04:53:04 PM by Ron Wolf

Any AGCO dealer has the switch. You'll want an owner's manual wiring diagram to straighten out the mess.

1800A ignition switch

IP: 172.161.19.253 Posted on February 14, 2004 at 10:08:39 AM by Dennis

Hi Larry, The problem with the starter motor seems to be located in the ignition switch mess that has been installed in this tractor. A 6 volt pushbutton switch was put in combination with an on/off keyed switch. The wiring is a nightmare. Anyway, now I need to locate a standard keyed ignition. Do you have one or where should I look for one. Thanks.

Re(1): 1800A ignition switch

IP: 64.91.70.23 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 04:53:04 PM by Ron Wolf

Any AGCO dealer has the switch. You'll want an owner's manual wiring diagram to straighten out the mess.

Re(2): 1800A ignition switch

IP: 172.131.99.80 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 06:03:25 PM by Dennis

Thanks Ron, will check with one. I have an owners manual and 2 versions of the shop manual. I could not believe the jury rigging that was done on this. I figure I am going to just totally rewire the tractor. There are wire splices I have no idea where they go or to what. Just taped in place!!! I was checking a wire on the engine and just lifted it and it just pulled loose out the tape. I figure I have about a weeks worth of work just fixing the wiring. The main wire to the starter motor is frayed and cracked as well. Like I said....its a mess. I wish I could post a photo. What I think I might do is take some photo's of the tractor as it is right now and post them on my website and start a page of my redo of this from start to finish.

Noise from 1800 engine/Tran

IP: 172.161.19.253 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 06:51:54 PM by Dennis

Hi Larry, Was working my 1800A today, not hard, just moving some gravel. Noticed a noise, not constant initially, but after starting and moving a minute or so I would hear a harsh whine coming from the right side of the engine back near where the tranny is. If I stopped and restarted it would stop but then minutes later start up again when the tractor was moving. If I just let it sit, even at higher revs the sound would not repeat. Got me puzzled. But the sound is almost like as if the starter motor was trying to engage?

Re(1): Noise from 1800 engine/Tran

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 09:52:46 PM by Larry Harsin

You better do some more checking and make sure that the starter motor isn't somehow engaging. It could be a pinched wire somewhere in the tractor that is causing this noise. Also, it could be an ignition switch that is going bad. There is something strange happening and it will take awhile to find it, but I would get right on it and find out before something gets ruined. Larry

Re(2): Noise from 1800 engine/Tran

IP: 172.161.19.253 Posted on February 14, 2004 at 00:04:39 AM by Dennis

Thanks Larry, I didnt have a chance today because it was getting so late and was getting cold. It was just really strange. I suspicion that its the switch. The ignition switch has been changed to a Key on, then an ignition button. Definately not stock, so I am thinking that its in there somewhere because its not a constant noise which if there was a def mechanical problem it would usually be unless it was heat related. In this case I do believe you are right in that its a short or the ignition itself that is the problem. Will let you know what I find.

1850 PTO

IP: 216.56.8.66 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 08:15:30 AM by Mark / WI

Larry I am looking at an Oliver 1850 with the Perkins engine. The tractor has 4900 hrs and he is asking $4000.00. There is a problem with the PTO. I can grab the shaft and pull it out. It moves in and out. I didn't check to see if it operates. What do you think would be the problem and would it be expensive to repair? What else could I check to figure out what the problem is?

Re(1): 1850 PTO

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 08:24:44 AM by Larry Harsin

That lower shaft is held in place with a snap ring. It might just be that the snap ring is gone. You are going to have to look it over and make sure it operates as you expect it to and that you can shut it off. Larry

Re(2): 1850 PTO

IP: 216.56.8.66 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 02:30:48 PM by Mark / WI

Thanks Larry. What do you think about the price he is asking? Are there any bad points to the 1850 with the Perkins?

Re(3): 1850 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 09:48:07 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor seems to be in good condition and is complete, $4000 for it is in the ball park. Larry

55 super clutch

IP: 64.187.15.114 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 04:50:02 PM by Paul

I have completed a z split on the 55 as had to overhaul the pto clutch. When I split the engine clutch was working fine but since I putback together I have no release. have taken apart again and can find nothing out of place or distorted. Have even removed clutch from flywheel and checked no problems as all new six months ago. If I leave a little loose for line up I get some adjustment. when retightened no release. Any suggestions what I should be looking for as can not see up through inspection hole for pto clutch to engine clutch very well. Thanks for the help. Paul

Re(1): 55 super clutch

IP: 67.2.248.70 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 10:18:02 PM by Larry Harsin

When you took it apart to service the PTO clutch, you may not have put something back together properly. You are just going to have to study it out, I don't know just what it would be. It might be in the throwout mechanism for the engine clutch. It may not be reassembled properly. Larry

Re(2): 55 super clutch

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on February 12, 2004 at 11:34:59 AM by j ulmer

When I bought my Hancock scraper the clutch fingers were burnt off (main engine clutch) We removed the clutch and had it rebuilt and resurfaced (new springs and fingers) and the rebuild shop gave it back to us assembled. When we put it on the motor we could not get any release. We pulled the motor and clutch and carried them to Lubbock and he redid his rebuild. I did not watch, but his shop guy had reversed either the fingers or the throw out bearing or fork or something. Since this gentleman removed the engine clutch he may have got something out of position as you suggested. Our throwout bearing had burned out because of no release clearance which had fried the pressure plate fingers. This machine had had the motor out for an overhaul shortly before and they had probably installed a clutch part incorrectly which was then repeated by the clutch shop guy when he disassembled and reassembled the clutch. That is why I carried the motor AND clutch to them to figure out why I could not get any free pedal on the clutch. I know the 55 and the 1950 are worlds apart in size, but I figure their designers and engineers ate donuts and drank coffee together. good luck ju

Re(1): 55 super clutch

IP: 207.67.12.116 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 06:32:37 PM by Greg

I had the same problem on my 550 (same design as S55). Your Pressure Plate is shot. I ended up having to replace the Pressure Plate on my 550 because the release fingers wear obround holes in the stamped fingers. If you look carefully you'll notice this problem. Once that happens all the adjustment is eaten up.

Re(2): 55 super clutch

IP: 65.117.137.171 Posted on February 17, 2004 at 08:53:48 PM by RockinB

Greg:Couldn't help but laugh when I saw obround.Is that something between oblong and obtuse?

Re(3): 55 super clutch

IP: 207.67.12.116 Posted on February 19, 2004 at 01:35:20 PM by Greg

Obround is a term used in mechanical engineering. Definitely not obtuse which is an angle greater than 90 deg. But would be the same as oblong. We often use the term doubleD as well. Layman's term would be the dagnab holes are wearing out of round!!

1265-1973

IP: 65.164.70.10 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 02:01:19 PM by Gene

A little new, but it does say Oliver on the side! 1973 Fiat 1265 Oliver, with 6 speed transmission. Has a nasty habit of the shifter jumping out of place, resulting in the cover having to be removed, and aligned again. Replaced the shift lever, but it didn't seem to help. Thanks

Re(1): 1265-1973

IP: 67.2.249.3 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 02:32:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't worked on a 1265 and I don't know just what they are like in there. Larry

Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 06:40:04 PM by Stu

Is there a way to increase the raise speed (and the drop speed I guess) on my Super 55 HC? I have been plowing lots of snow, and the currnet slow raise is a bit of a hindrence when switching directions and building piles. Thanks Larry

Re(1): Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:11:57 PM by Larry Harsin

That pump puts out only 5 gal per minute. You should install a front mount pump that runs directly off of the engine to operate your loader. You need a minimum of 10 - 12 gal per minute to operate a loader satisfactorily. For a pump, check with your local AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:27:39 PM by Stu

What I was wondering was speeding up the three point hitch itself. I have a rear mounted 3ph bladed. Sorry for any confusion.

Re(3): Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 67.2.249.252 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 11:37:16 PM by Larry Harsin

What you have, is about all you can do with the 3 pt. hitch on a S55 or 550. You may want to go to a front end loader. Larry

Re(3): Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 12:34:34 PM by Larry from MD

I have used a s55 in snow and raise and lowering speed should not be a problem.They do work a little faster in draft control.But i think you probably have something wrong inside,like broken or bent linkage or bad ajustment,mabe a sticking spool,worn pump.

Re(3): Super 55 3ph speed

IP: 165.247.165.122 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 01:01:13 PM by Mike B

I have seen an enclosed geared device that mounts to the PTO to increase or decrease speed. Note that if you increase the speed, the required torque will also increase so you might hit a limit on the amount of snow that you can move or stress out your PTO components. Check www.surpluscenter.com and with companies like Northern or Agco or maybe even ebay.

770 front seal still leaking after overhaul

IP: 208.188.159.131 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 02:59:49 PM by gary

still have a leak on a 770 gas engine has about 16hours on it and still seeps pretty good. does the timing cover have to be remachined? thanks

Re(1): 770 front seal still leaking after overhaul

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:08:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You may just have to replace the whole timing cover. I don't bother with remaching them. If you need one, I have one. Email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Re(2): 770 front seal still leaking after overhaul

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:34:14 PM by Larry from MD

If you have the old style seal it may not have slipped up on the pully correctly.I did find one pully that was way off center and leaked.The nut who did the crank grinding got the bearings off center from the pulley.

1800A Oil Pressure Guage

IP: 206.168.10.8 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 01:33:00 PM by Dennis

Hi Larry, I am needing a new oil gage for my 1800A gas. You wouldnt happen to have one? Or recommend who to contact. Also, I need to convert this tractor to 12volt. What is the procedure and just what all needs to be done? Thanks

Re(1): 1800A Oil Pressure Guage

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:02:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1800A gas was 12 volt to begin with. If you want a mechanical guage for it, go to your auto supply store. They have gauges that register in pounds. That tractor was originally equipped with a warning light and buzzer for your oil pressure indicator. Larry

Re(2): 1800A Oil Pressure Guage

IP: 172.200.53.47 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 08:28:31 PM by Dennis

Ok, I somehow had gotten the impression that this was a 6 volt system on this. That makes it easier. If a standard auto oil pressure gage will work then I already have one. Simplifies things considerably. Less expensive as well. Thanks for the info Larry. I know that many times these are the same questions asked multiple times by different people so I and am sure the others here appreciate your patience and your willingness to share your knowledge. Thanks again.

1955 Hydraulics

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 09:33:55 AM by Jason

Hello, I have a 1955 Oliver. When I use the remote hydraulics the implement will raise and lower just fine but it will not stay up. The implement will fall back to the ground after 1 to 2 minutes. Everthing else works just fine. I thought it might be a cylinder problem so I tried several others and they all do the same thing. Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 1955 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 10:37:50 PM by Larry Harsin

You have leakage in the control valve itself. It will probably have to be removed and repaired. This valve is on the outside of the hydraulic unit on the right rear. Larry

Re(2): 1955 Hydraulics

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 09:37:50 AM by Jason

Thanks Larry, is this something I can take off and put some new orings in? Or is this a machine part?

Re(3): 1955 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on February 10, 2004 at 07:05:38 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to repair it. It is a bit of a job. It is probably either a bad "0" ring or a plastic or nylon check valve that has broken. The worst part is getting the check valve out if that is the problem. Larry

Re(4): 1955 Hydraulics

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on February 11, 2004 at 10:01:51 AM by Jason

I will pull it off and find out whats going on. Thanks for all your help.

STEERING COLUMN BOOT

IP: 67.37.49.3 Posted on February 8, 2004 at 10:35:17 PM by BOB MINDEMANN

DO YOU KNOW WERE I COULD GET A RUBBER STEERING COLUMN BOOT FOR MY 1855? ID PREFER A NEW ONE. IS THERE AFTERMARKET.THEY ARE NA FROM THE DEALER.

Re(1): STEERING COLUMN BOOT

IP: 67.2.242.64 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 08:35:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have a new old stock or a good used one. Larry

valve adjustment

IP: 216.220.248.218 Posted on February 8, 2004 at 06:51:05 PM by mike fairbanks

I am in the process of adjusting valves on a 310 waukesha. I have #1 piston @ tdc of com stroke, and have adj # 1 cyl. What other valves can be adj at this time? Can I rotate 360 degres and do the rest of the valves? If so which ones?

Re(1): valve adjustment

IP: 67.2.242.64 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 08:33:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I would turn the engine 1/3 of a turn and adj the number 5, which is the next one in the firing order. Proceed through the rest of the cylinders in their respective order turning 1/3 at a time. 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4. Larry

Re(2): valve adjustment

IP: 212.205.216.43 Posted on February 15, 2004 at 09:18:13 AM by nicolas mplahuras

hello from greece i have a utb romanian made tractor(similar fiat }and have repair informations for engine(8035 )and for transmission and hydraylic system

Re(3): valve adjustment

IP: 67.2.248.103 Posted on March 4, 2004 at 00:21:36 AM by Larry Harsin

It is good to hear from you. Thank you for your information. What crops do you raise? Larry

Transmission issues

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on February 8, 2004 at 01:03:14 PM by Scott

My 1750 has recently broken the high gears on my transmission. The mid range and low gears work great, but last week the upper gears went. Is there a common problem with this type of situation, and if so, is it an expensive venture. Thanks Larry!!!

Re(1): Transmission issues

IP: 67.2.242.64 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 08:28:58 AM by Larry Harsin

This is not a common problem. It can be expensive to repair. You are going to have to determine what caused the problem. Was it lack of lubrication? Or was something wrong with the auxilary transmission to cause a power surge into the main transmission? Or was it operator error? For parts, call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 or Worthington Tractor Salvage 800-533-5304. Larry

Re(1): Transmission issues

IP: 204.235.237.65 Posted on March 14, 2004 at 09:29:18 PM by paul kessler

I my self have a 1900 rice that does the same thing in high gear i have been told that that the 3rd shift fork is bent

88 Paint

IP: 64.136.164.30 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 07:17:53 PM by Bob

Can you tell me what the Sherwin Williams paint numbers are for Oliver Green for the 88 and then the newer models also? Bob

Re(1): 88 Paint

IP: 67.2.242.88 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 11:12:49 PM by Larry Harsin

We do not have the Sherwin Williams paint numbers. We have the Martin Senour paint numbers and your paint store can match them up with Sherwin Williams. You didn't say what year your tractor is. You can use Martin Senour 99L-3751 or Dupont 5316. Or you can go to your AGCO Dealer and purchase Meadow Green for one third as much cost of these. This one paint will work for tractors built from 1952 clear up to the end of the Olivers. Larry

Re(2): 88 Paint

IP: 63.155.196.233 Posted on February 8, 2004 at 00:01:32 AM by Bob

Thanks for the info. Bob

hp

IP: 207.222.102.61 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 05:12:05 PM by Jimmy

What is the horse power of a oliver tractor model 1555 ? It has a 6cyl diesel engine

Re(1): hp

IP: 67.2.242.88 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 11:02:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It is 53 hp. Larry

Re(2): hp

IP: 204.30.194.21 Posted on February 9, 2004 at 07:52:04 AM by Jimmy

Thank you very much Mr. Harsin

S-55

IP: 64.91.203.10 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 03:36:27 PM by walter

my engine was overhauled about two yrs ago,the solid state ingnition sounds good is it easy to convert & where do I get it? And how much it cost?

Re(1): S-55

IP: 67.2.242.88 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 11:01:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Order it from T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. (Tom Hassenfritz Equip) It's going to cost approx. $75. I'd also reccommend you get the hot coil with it. So it would be approx. $100. You'll have to tell them if your alternator is neg ground or pos ground. Larry

radiator neck

IP: 68.97.193.233 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 12:19:29 PM by Mark

I think I have a leak where the radiator neck goes into the top of the block. I noticed when I removed the neck there was no thermostat. I have sinced learned that my 1941 60RC did not have a thermostat. My qestion is there are two holes going into the block where the neck fits. The main large one and a smaller off to the side. My neck only has one large opening in the center, no opening for the smaller hole going into the block. The part # on the neck is H386. Could this be the wrong neck or does it not matter that the small opening is blocked when the neck is on. Obviously, I am not mechanically literate so any help is appreciated.

Re(1): radiator neck

IP: 67.2.242.88 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 10:57:25 PM by Larry Harsin

That thermostat housing or neck as you call it is designed for a thermostat. Your tractor is supposed to have a thermostat in there. If you order a 101400A thermostat from your AGCO Dealer, it will fit that neck. You should either get the H387 gasket also or make one. Don't worry about the little hole. Larry

oliver s-55 gas

IP: 64.91.203.41 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 02:46:02 AM by walter

Larry, I converted my oliver S-55 to 12 volt system ,with built in resister in 12 volt coil , 12 volt battery, 12 volt voltage regulator, 12 volt starter . my S-55 runs good for a while then acts like it is running on 3 cyclinders. had new plugs & plug wires. Has always been hard to keep it running on all four cyclinders even before I coverted it over to 12 volt system. just can't figure it out. Thanks in advance for your help.

Re(1): oliver s-55 gas

IP: 67.2.249.62 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 07:04:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing that comes to my mind is that maybe you should try a hotter coil. Another thing that might be worth considering, would be solid state ignition to eliminate the points and condenser. This is assuming that your engine is in good condition and that is not part of the problem - such as low compression or something like that. Larry

Re(1): oliver s-55 gas

IP: 205.184.160.219 Posted on February 13, 2004 at 09:36:59 PM by Mike B

It could be a lot of things. Sometimes heat affects the condenser causing intermittent sparks. Replace it and try again. Also make sure that the polarity on the coil is correct. The positive post should go to the ignition switch for a negative ground. This is opposite from the original positive ground and will give you a hotter spark. Also, when the engine starts acting up, pull off one spark plug wire at a time using insulated pliers to confirm if it is ignition related. You'll know the dead cylinder if there is no change when you remove that wire. Otherwise, you may have a bad or sticky valve, or one that is adjusted too tight. When things warm up the slight expansion might cause the valve to stick or not seat. Do a compression test warm and cold and see if there is any major change. And, dumb things like poor battery connections including where connected to the engine, corrosion on principle wires like at the ignition switch can cause the kind of problem that is hard to pin down. Keep hunting, it's a machine and you'll eventually find the cause.

hydra-power

IP: 216.106.87.149 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 06:48:46 PM by bumpy

What needs to be done to replace hydra-power with an over/under in a 1800C

Re(1): hydra-power

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 07:33:01 PM by Larry Harsin

If you obtain the correct hydraul, it will bolt right in. You will also have to get the oil cooler that goes in front of the radiator when you get the hydraul. I havn't done it, but I am pretty sure it will work. Larry

1800A serial # question

IP: 172.166.50.91 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 03:14:32 PM by Dennis

Hi Larry, The serial on my tractor is 92-718-886 with a SPEC 18-2109 number also Anything you can tell me about it would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): 1800A serial # question

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 07:30:13 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a 1960 model. It is the A series, like you say. They were good old tractors. It's getting so it is hard to find any of them that are good anymore. It is hard to find some of the parts, like the crankshaft bearings etc. What condition is your tractor in? I have 2 1800A's here. One is ready for sale, the other one is sitting waiting for me to work on it. Larry

Re(2): 1800A serial # question

IP: 172.166.50.91 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 11:46:25 PM by Dennis

Its in fair shape. Has a Dual loader on it and also has the cab. No insulation left in the cab. The engine is strong and there seems to be no problems with the drive train. Wheels are rusty but otherwise good. Body usual dings. Paint is poor. Hydrolics on the loader are in poor condition. Needs new hoses and the bucket cylinders rebuilt. At this point though other than a new bucket, and the bucket hydrolics redone and a general cleanup, lube, and some paint, its in fair shape. I moved some gravel with it to fill in some holes the other day and it worked well and ran strong. Trans in good shape, brakes work, 3point works well. Needs some new tires on front too.

Re(3): 1800A serial # question

IP: 67.2.249.62 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 07:00:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like you have a good old tractor. Just try to take care of it. Larry

Re(4): 1800A serial # question

IP: 172.156.242.168 Posted on February 7, 2004 at 05:23:48 PM by Dennis

I plan to. One thing that surprised me was that most of the guages still work. Havent yet investigated the rest of the electrical yet. The lights and the "heater?", I dont know about. Its even got a radio. If they work or not yet I dont know. Its going to take a bit of time and a bit of money to get it into the best shape that I can, but I figure it will be worth it. Biggest job is going to be painting it after I get it all cleaned off. Removing the loader then the wheels and then sandblasting and painting it the right way.

18-27 Row Crop

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on February 5, 2004 at 09:35:50 PM by Kurt Shaner

We have a 1935 Hart Parr 18-27 row crop that has severely corroded rear rims. Where can we find replacement rims?

Re(1): 18-27 Row Crop

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 00:50:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts (salvage) 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry

Oliver 1800 Recommended Oil

IP: 172.166.50.91 Posted on February 5, 2004 at 03:32:32 PM by Dennis James

Hi Larry, Just wanted to ask what weight oil I should put in this. Before I run it anywhere I gotta change out the oil. Its almost the consistancy of a thick honey. Yeechh!!

Re(1): Oliver 1800 Recommended Oil

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 00:46:44 AM by Larry Harsin

In the engine, in freezing weather, I would use 10w30. In warmer weather, I would use either 30w or 15w40. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1800 Recommended Oil

IP: 172.166.50.91 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 11:32:34 AM by Dennis James

Ok thanks Larry

880 industrial

IP: 24.151.99.13 Posted on February 5, 2004 at 06:21:46 AM by Al Clapp

Is 10W-30 the correct oil for the helical gear transmission? I have heard talk of people using 80W-90 in the spur gear units.

Re(1): 880 industrial

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 00:44:32 AM by Larry Harsin

If it doesn't have a power booster, 80-90 will be o.k. If you have a power booster, I would use the 10w30 or something like HY-Tran. Larry

1655 tank heater

IP: 66.163.147.22 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 09:30:03 PM by karl

Larry, Where are the correct locations to hook up a tank heater (external engine coolant heater) on a 1655 diesel? thanks

Re(1): 1655 tank heater

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on February 6, 2004 at 00:42:30 AM by Larry Harsin

It runs from the drain plug on the back of the block up to the bottom plug on the thermostat housing, where the temperature center is located. Larry

(550 overhaul)

IP: 206.74.35.148 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 00:25:33 AM by plowboy

Hi Larry, is it normal to find a small crack between cylinders when doing a 550 overhaul? THANKS.

Re(1): (550 overhaul)

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 08:10:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It's not unusual. Larry

axle seals leaking

IP: 67.251.135.115 Posted on February 3, 2004 at 08:40:00 PM by stanley

my axle seals are leaking are they hard to fix and why did they start leaking.

Re(1): axle seals leaking

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 00:17:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The final drive housing may have too much oil in it. Or you may have loose axle bearings that have knocked the seals out of it (or ruined the seals). Larry

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