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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" January, 2003 Archives
88 head torgue
IP: 208.157.46.167 Posted on January 28, 2003 at 09:22:02 PM by james keller
Larry, whats the head torgue on the oliver 88?? please respond as soon as possible, we need to get this thing in production. thank you!! keller
Re(1): 88 head torgue IP: 209.163.7.73 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 07:06:50 AM by Larry Harsin
I torque those head bolts at 100 lbs. Then I warm the tractor up, let it cool down and then retorque it and set the valves. Larry
wl-30 loader
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on January 28, 2003 at 03:55:10 PM by Randy
I saw this loader on you wide front 880 for sale and wonder if you could answer these question even though im a different color-RED thanks Iam curently looking at a WL -30 westendorf loader to go onto my 460 widefront.Now iam told that loader is only compatible with narrow front tractors and is this enough tractor for IT. I dont need the quick tach feature and the loader will stay on permanent.But is there a way short of switching front ends around to make this work? you know put the loader on with a narrow front on then changing back to wide? Any body got a manual for the loader?
Re(1): wl-30 loader IP: 209.163.7.73 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 07:04:40 AM by Larry Harsin
There never were manuals for the loader. You can mount that loader on a wide front and it works just fine. You just have to put it on in pieces. It is not a Power-Mount Loader for a WF, it is a Power-Mount Loader for a NF. WL 30 Loaders work very well on WF 460 and 560 tractors. Larry
1255 Oliver pto seal
IP: 24.49.223.137 Posted on January 28, 2003 at 02:33:01 PM by Don Peek
What is the best way to get to and replace the seal between the pto shaft and the main drive shaft on the 1255 (narrow) fiat model tractor? Does the tractor have to be split or can this be done from the top or back?
Re(1): 1255 Oliver pto seal IP: 209.163.7.73 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 06:59:50 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. I havn't worked on those Fiats. You can get a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Oliver Superior Spreader
IP: 12.109.84.40 Posted on January 28, 2003 at 09:22:04 AM by Steve
I have just purchased an Oliver Superior Manure Spreader and I would like to find out the year and model of it. From what I can read I think the serial number is 17-818. Can you tell me where to go to find more informtion? Thank You.
Re(1): Oliver Superior Spreader IP: 209.163.7.73 Posted on January 29, 2003 at 06:56:47 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have that kind of information. Contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com or Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Super 55 PTO
IP: 206.47.184.220 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 06:47:20 PM by Paul
My PTO did not work so did a "Z" split as I&T manual suggests and found one fibre disc closest to engine clutch with all the drive teeth gone to almost half the diameter of plate and second one in worn to half the thickness of the remaining three so replacement in order but I could not freely turn the adjusting ring with the locking pin disengaged as the shoulder of the ring notches seem to be catching on the operating arms of the face plate. The I&T manual seems to show a shoulder on the outer edge of the ring but not a good picture. Mine does not have any shoulder that is notched both sides does this ring need replacement? Also I would like to remove spider drum to replace seal on transmission side and the "O" ring on transmission side as leaking oil onto PTO clutch assembly The manual makes mention of a right hand thread on spider drum nut I would take this means clockwise to loosen facing the spider drum. Thanks forthe information. Paul in Ontario
Re(1): Super 55 PTO IP: 209.163.7.42 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 09:51:28 PM by Larry Harsin
Taking that ring out can be a bit ornery to do, but I don't think there is anything wrong with it. Patience is a virtue here. You may need the metal discs as well as the fiber discs. If those metal discs are worn at all, they are probably warped. I think your I&T Manual is correct on the spider drum instructions. Larry
1550 hydraulics
IP: 205.217.175.92 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 05:22:11 PM by Ol'e Dave
Larry, Have a 1968 1550 rowcrop that has been in the family since it was built. It was special ordered with a wheatland front axel for use with a 16?? loader. Is this a very rare combo. I have never seen another one like it. This has proabably been one of the best machines I have ever owned. My big belly ache over the years has been the "all on-all off" hydraulic controls, which requires restricting the hydraulic flow to the loader on lowering the boom or dumping the bucket. I suppose we could have put a pto pump and seperate control valves on it but never did. I was told by a dealer when the tractor was relativly new that we should replace the hydraulic pump with a new model when this one wore out. I have been waiting 33 years for this pump to wear out!!!!!! Any lessons on all those adjustment screws on the hydraulic system would be appreciated. Dave
Re(1): 1550 hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.42 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 09:44:50 PM by Larry Harsin
Here's what I would do. I would plumb into the power-beyond port and bring that oil out and run it through an external valve(2 spool). Then hook the valve up to the loader instead of using the ports that you are using. I hook up all of my loaders on the 50 series tractors this way. The loaders are faster, smoother and safer. The power-beyond port is located, as you sit on the seat, directly below your left thigh, on the top casting or lid of the hydraulic unit. There is a 1/2 inch plug facing forward. Remove this and back in this hole approx. 2 inches is a threaded area where you will install a 3/8 socket head pipe plug. Directly behind where this plug sets and facing out towards the fender is another 1/2 inch pipe plug. This is where oil comes back into the system from the valve. Where you removed the first 1/2 inch pipe plug, is where you plumb into to take pressurized oil to your 2 spool remote valve. That should do it. Let me know how you come out. Larry
What year Oliver 55
IP: 67.2.194.234 Posted on January 26, 2003 at 04:17:16 PM by Pat Gehling
After my father's death I recently acquired an Oliver 55 tractor. Not being familiar with the tractor I want to get more information and am trying to determine what year it is. The serial # is 18545-518. This number does not seem to match any information that I can find on the internet. Any ideas? Thanks.
Re(1): What year Oliver 55 IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on January 26, 2003 at 09:17:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Your Super 55 was built in 1955. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
1944 Oliver 80
IP: 64.229.107.14 Posted on January 26, 2003 at 12:23:40 AM by Darren
Looking for an owners manual for a 1944 Oliver 80.
Re(1): 1944 Oliver 80 IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on January 26, 2003 at 09:14:02 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
60 Row Crop
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 05:52:28 PM by Dan Supplee
Larry, Need to know the weight of a 60 RC no calcium, with rear wheel weights. Thanks, Dan
Re(1): 60 Row Crop IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 07:30:42 PM by Larry Harsin
It's approx. 2000 lbs plus the wheel weights - about 275 lbs. Larry
parsons backhoe
IP: 204.210.194.16 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 04:46:28 PM by Troy Ridenour
I was looking for some info on a parsons unihoe18 backhoe it has a 352 detroit and a gm transmission was wondering if this is on a oliver tractor we also are having trouble with the transmission the wheels will turn when you lift the back tires off the ground but it does'nt have enough power to move the tractor wondered if you have any ideas whats wrong ? thanks
Re(1): parsons backhoe IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 07:29:00 PM by Larry Harsin
I doubt if this is on an Oliver tractor. I really don't have any idea what is going on there. Parsons did build some backhoe's for Oliver, but Oliver never used a 352 engine that I am aware of. Larry
Super 88 Diesel - Hydraulics
IP: 63.175.166.186 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 10:39:21 PM by Jim
I have a 1953 Super 88 Diesel in good condition. The only problem is that the hydraulic fluid is leaking, I think into the transmission. What is wrong and how do I fix it. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks
Re(1): Super 88 Diesel - Hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 07:32:58 AM by Larry Harsin
This is not uncommon. You'll have to remove the hydraulic unit and put new bearings and seals in the hydraulic pump. To do this, you must first remove the long PTO drive shaft that goes up to the engine as this is what drives the hydraulic pump also. A Service Manual that tells how to do this can be obtained from Mary Ann at Charles City: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(2): Super 88 Diesel - Hydraulics IP: 63.175.166.116 Posted on January 26, 2003 at 07:56:48 PM by Jim
Thanks for the information.
oliver oc-3
IP: 63.190.32.111 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 09:26:04 PM by Dan F
I purchased a 1955 Oliver OC-3 a little while ago that ran good,but had an oil leak in the back of the engine. Was told the engine was rebuilt (pulling the head verified this), but that the gentalman left out a bolt in the back of the engine. Question; How do I seperate the engine and transmission (any surprises to look for.)?
Re(1): oliver oc-3 IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 07:29:07 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think there are any surprises. It's a 4 cylinder Hercules engine. Just simply unbolt it and pull it apart. I'm not up on the Oliver Crawlers as there weren't many sold in this area of the country. If you need further info, contact Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net. Larry
Re(2): oliver oc-3 IP: 63.187.200.49 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 10:04:24 AM by Dan F.
Thanks Larry, Appreciate the information, love your site! Will keep you posted and send pictures of progress and completion.
Re(3): oliver oc-3 IP: 208.10.124.171 Posted on January 25, 2003 at 11:23:39 AM by Larry from MD
If your engine is like the IXB that I have the pan is bolted up to the block and back to the clutch houseing.There is one bolt that is hard to get in its in the bottem center,and you can't use a socket,just an end wrench that you can bearly turn.I doubt that you would need to split anything if thats whats missing.Its allso hard to get both the top and end gaskets up in right place at the same time,so that may be whats wrong.
backhoe
IP: 192.26.212.72 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 07:35:04 PM by David Barry
Oliver made a backhoe attachment (1610?)that would fit a 1550 or 550? Do you know where there is one? If so how much, condition etc. Thanks
Re(1): backhoe IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 08:15:57 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know where there is one for sale. The backhoe on my Brother's 1550 Industrial is a 1600. Larry
770 Gas Oil & Filter
IP: 24.169.120.85 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 07:25:39 PM by Justin
Larry, What weight of oil should I be using in my 770 Gas engine? I live in Upstate NY and it gets cold up here. Also, do you have an oil filter part number which I can cross-reference to a Baldwin part #? The previous owner installed a Carquest filter from an auto parts store which we don't have around here - I doubt the number on the side means anything Thanks Again.
Re(1): 770 Gas Oil & Filter IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 08:13:50 PM by Larry Harsin
I prefer 10w30. The correct number for the Oliver filter is 100126ASA. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The great thing about Oliver filters is that they are made from pleated paper and they last longer. On the model 770 engine they only need to be changed about every third oil change. Larry
Oliver 88 oil
IP: 12.154.0.135 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 08:59:13 AM by Eric
On a 1951 88 diesel, should I use 15w-40 or just sae 30 ? I realize that it probably had sae 30 when it was new. I just want to know what would be best. Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 88 oil IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 08:06:10 PM by Larry Harsin
I would prefer 10w30 or even 15w40, but I prefer 10w30. I don't like straight 30w oil in those older engines. Larry
70 rear engine pins
IP: 216.65.162.35 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 08:28:36 PM by Dale from Michigan
Hi Larry, thanks for this fine site I read it every day. I have started to remove the engine on my 70RC and I don't understand how to remove the rear engine support pins. The service manual says to use a STS-39 Pin puller, can this tool still be found or could you explain how I can remove these pins? Thanks for any insight you can give on this, Dale
Re(1): 70 rear engine pins IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 10:06:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Use a chunk of 1/2 inch Redi-Bolt. Screw that into the pin. Then slip a chunk of 1 1/4 inch pipe (which will be larger than the pin) over the Redi-Bolt and put a piece of flat iron with a 1/2 inch hole in it over the end of the pipe, put on a nut and screw the pin out. Basically you are making your puller. Larry
RE: rear engine pins-70 IP: 216.65.165.137 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 12:41:15 AM by Dale from Michigan
Larry, THANKS for the information on removing the rear engine pins,it workd super. I was looking at the problem all wrong, I thought it looked like a washer welded to the frame and the threads were part of the frame and the pin was way back in the hole, I thought the picture of the pin in the parts book looked like it was small. I followed your directions with the puller and turned the nut twice and the pin move a little so I removed the puller to look and there it was plain as day!! The washer was the end of the pin and the weld was caked on dirt and the threads were the center of the pin. I have made and used puller before but was stumped this time, because I was looking at the problem wrong. Other then the permanent hand mark in the middle of my fore head from slapping myself with my hand and telling myself how dumb I was it went real well and made my day. THANKS, Dale
Re(1): RE: rear engine pins-70 IP: 209.163.7.42 Posted on January 27, 2003 at 09:34:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Glad we could help. We enjoy hearing about successful "operations". Larry
Transmission Oil
IP: 67.32.51.81 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 03:12:08 PM by Alan Jones
I recently purchased a shop manual for my 52 row crop it recommended 10w30 engine oil for the transmission and rear end. That is what I have used.(Synthetic) I did notice that on an earlier posting that you recommended 80-90w The tractor is not going to be used for working just an occasional tractor pull. Am I ok?
Re(1): Transmission Oil IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 10:00:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, you are o.k., but I would use 80-90. It makes a difference what model tractor you have. I would use 10w30 in a 550 for instance. Larry
77 carburetor
IP: 156.63.253.224 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 08:33:09 AM by chris pileski
Larry, could you give me some information as to what kind of carburetors were put on 77's. my 770 has a schebler TSX 755 and it i'm having trouble finding parts for it. i have a student with a good carb off of a 77 and wondered if it would be compatible with the 770. thanks.
Re(1): 77 carburetor IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 09:56:10 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get a carburetor kit from Valu-Bilt for your TSX 755. 888-828-3276. A TSX 374 might work, I don't know. Larry
Re(2): 77 carburetor IP: 156.63.253.224 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 09:16:14 AM by chris pileski
thanks larry, do you know what's included in the kit from valu-bilt? i need a new float, load jet, and one bolt to hold the bowl on. the thread on that bolt appears to be very hard to find, it's an unusual thread, i've been through every source i know trying to find one simple schebler bolt. thanks again for your replies.
Re(3): 77 carburetor IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on January 24, 2003 at 08:30:01 PM by Larry Harsin
The Basic Kit includes the needle and seat, the gaskets, the throttle shaft, the jets, the load needle and idle needle. It doesn't look like there is any hardware. The float can be ordered separately. Their number is toll free, so just talk to them. I have several of those screws. EMAIL your address to me and I will send a couple of them to you. Larry
55 super spindles
IP: 206.47.184.209 Posted on January 22, 2003 at 04:51:13 PM by Paul
I was wondering what the difference is in the left and right spindle as I need to track down a left as mine has a short implement hub with a drive on dust cap not a four bolt and gasket cap. The left is approx. $124.00 more than the$310.00 right. Does the same hub fit both sides. I ordered a operator's manual from Charles City but has yet to arrive maybe some info in there. Thanks for the info. Paul in Ontario
Re(1): 55 super spindles IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 07:01:37 AM by Larry Harsin
The tractor was built with identical spindles. The 4 bolt gasket cap is the correct one. Your prices don't sound correct. Contact Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. They have spindles for approx. $170 and hubs for approx. $70. Larry
super55
IP: 206.100.85.194 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 09:41:39 PM by Bob Strang
The injector pump on my super 55 diesel apparently is leaking into the oil pan.Can these pumps be rebuilt with this problem or does it need to be replaced?
Re(1): super55 IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 10:44:43 PM by Larry Harsin
I would first check the little transfer on the other side. It is real common for the fuel transfer pump to leak fuel through the diaphram into the crankcase. I would not do anything to the injection pump until I was sure everything in the transfer pump was o.k. Larry
Re(2): super55 IP: 65.139.153.95 Posted on January 22, 2003 at 09:55:44 AM by Bob Strang
That sure is the problem,Iam glad I checked with you,my friend now all I need to do is find a new one or a diaphram.If you have any ideas let me know Thanks again-Bob
Re(3): super55 IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on January 22, 2003 at 01:08:46 PM by Larry Harsin
You can't buy a new fuel pump. You can get a repair kit for that one from Korves Bros. korves@htc.net Larry
oliver rebuild?
IP: 12.93.33.228 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 05:43:06 PM by jim barnhill
I have a 1968 or 1969 oliver model 1450 55 hp deisel that needs a rebuild. I am having trouble finding parts. Is a rebuilt or new motor an option (where you find them). What would fit? Or where can I find piston/sleeves, rod bearings, complete gasket set and clutch?
Re(1): oliver rebuild? IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 10:41:49 PM by Larry Harsin
This tractor was built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. for some of these parts. 800-320-6224. If Tom can't get what you need, go to Danny Bowes website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
88 Diesel
IP: 12.154.0.135 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 04:14:30 PM by Eric
Larry, I asked you about the slobbering out of the exhaust on my 88 Diesel. I have now found out that when the tractor is under a load it stops. What does this mean? Thanks.
Re(1): 88 Diesel IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 10:37:12 PM by Larry Harsin
It's kind of a diesel quirk to slobber when the engine is not working. Especially so if the engine and fuel system is not in excellent condition. Make sure the thermostat is keeping the engine at proper temperature. Larry
Super 55 oil leak
IP: 192.219.127.235 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 03:22:02 PM by Stu
On my super 55 gas, there is a slow, small volume oil leak (thick, old oil) out of a small hole on the underside of the center frame, beside the center frame hand hole for clutch adjustment. This hole appears to be purposeful, and not damage. This area should be 'dry', since its the clutch area. I recently changed all of the oils and fluids with new, and this leak of old thick oil didnt start until after that maintenance. Any idea what this is or why this occuring?
Re(1): Super 55 oil leak IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 10:34:24 PM by Larry Harsin
I think it is probably oil from the transmission. Probably from the lower shaft behind the PTO clutch pack. This is just a guess. Larry
1450 wheeled dsl
IP: 216.126.148.40 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 03:04:00 AM by Richard Weiner
Hi Larry, I have an Oliver 1450 4 cyl dsl. When I attach the disc and put it under pressure pulling, after a short time it acts just like it is running out of fuel. I can watch the fuel level in the glass fuel pump bowl slowly go down and when it reaches a certain point it slowly stops running. I wait for about 1 minute and restart it only to travel another short distance with the disc raised, only to have it stop running again. Maybe fuel pump? I replaced all filters. I am also so looking for an extensive service and repair manual. If you know where I can get one of the thick detailed ones at a good price I would happy to hear about it. Any assistance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Re(1): 1450 wheeled dsl IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 07:40:24 AM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like a weak fuel pump. Remove the fuel strainer from the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure there isn't something in there. It is very common for something to be in there. Many times it is a bundle of spider webs. You can get reprints of the Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. They are worth the cost. Email her at fchs@fiai.net. Larry
1600 ?
IP: 208.10.124.193 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 07:06:54 PM by Larry from MD.
Can you replace the seals in the draft control shaft without removeing the hydrolic unit.I can't get the front crankshaft seal to stop leaking.Its been off twice and replced it.I think its going up on the pully but leaks just like the old one.The timeing cover seems not to be worn either.Any ideas? Do i try to enlarge the cork?
Re(1): 1600 ? IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 07:34:44 AM by Larry Harsin
I'm not sure about the seals on the draft control, but I think it might work if you remove the PTO unit. Check your Shop Manual. There's a good chance that the front crank shaft seal is hanging up on the pulley when you install it. I've had this happen myself. That cork is too tight on the pulley. Try to polish the shoulder on the crank pulley. Larry
Re(2): 1600 ? IP: 208.10.125.197 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 05:41:26 PM by Larry
Well the cork was stopping short of touching the timeing cover.I used emery cloth on the pully and it worked.Now to tackel the other end. Thanks for the help.
Re(1): 1600 ? IP: 216.106.87.131 Posted on January 22, 2003 at 12:41:51 AM by Anonymous
If the draft control is the same as a 1800 you can do it by removing the pto unit. I did mine by removing one side and replaceing that seal then reintalling the shaft then do the other side. It is spring loaded and who knows what would happen if it got away.
Re(2): 1600 ? IP: 208.10.124.198 Posted on January 23, 2003 at 11:23:07 AM by Larry from MD>
Well I got the pto off today and managed to drop it on my hand.The bad part is can't do anything more the hole is too small to put my hand inside.The 1555 I did last year had a large opening which made changeing the seals easy.
88 oil pump
IP: 12.154.0.135 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 04:49:38 PM by Eric
My 1951 88 diesel has very low oil press. at idle. High idle press. is about 8 to 10 lbs. when engine is warm. Is pressure adjustable, or what does changing the pump envolve?
Re(1): 88 oil pump IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 07:28:55 AM by Larry Harsin
I think you will find out that you have worn main bearings. That is the first thing I would check. Larry
Restoring an 88 Diesel
IP: 12.154.0.135 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 08:25:46 AM by Eric Reinsch
Larry, I have recently found a 1951 88 RC Diesel. It has a few leaks that I would like to stop so I can resore it. It seems to me that it leaks some around the injectors (what kind of seals are there) and it runs oil or unburnt fuel out of the exhaust manifold. Also I would appreciate some paint codes for all the colors. Thanks a bunch, Eric
Re(1): Restoring an 88 Diesel IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 07:27:10 AM by Larry Harsin
The seals on the ends of the injectors are simply copper gaskets. If you have fuel slobbering out of the exhaust, I am sure that you should remove the injectors and have them checked and repaired as needed. You may have more problems than the injectors, you may have low compression. With the preheater off of the intake manifold and the muffler removed from the exhaust, turn the engine over with the starter and if you hear compression leaking at either point, you have valves leaking. The paint for a 51 88: Green is DuPont 019 Red is Martin Senour 99L 3752 Yellow for the grills is 99L 11611. Larry
770 GEARSHIFT
IP: 65.241.103.158 Posted on January 19, 2003 at 04:03:26 PM by Bruce Baragary
i AM RESTORING A 770 i HAVE IT 90 PERCENT COMPLETE BUT CANNOT GET THE GEAR SHIFT BACK IN. WHAT IS THE SECRET?? I WILL NEVER EVER EVER PULL A GEAR SHIFT OUT OF ONE OF MY OLIVERS AGAIN. I HAVE TRIED NUMEROUS TIMES TO GET IT BACK IN.BRUCE
Re(1): 770 GEARSHIFT IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on January 19, 2003 at 10:09:29 PM by Larry Harsin
All I can say is keep trying. Larry
Re(2): 770 GEARSHIFT IP: 208.10.124.193 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 06:50:57 PM by Larry MD.
You should be useing a big long screwdriver to arrange the shift rails into one of the neutrals.Sometimes I have to use high or low neutral depends on the model.
Fenders for Oliver 1850
IP: 35.11.188.10 Posted on January 19, 2003 at 03:01:03 PM by Andrew
Hi would anybody know where I could find fenders for an Oliver 1850, or what other tractors used these fenders. I had a "R C" Tractor cab on the tractor and now I'm looking for a set of fenders. If anybody knows where a set would be and how much it would be appreciated. Thanks
Re(1): Fenders for Oliver 1850 IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 08:10:31 AM by Larry Harsin
I have a pair. Email your location to me and I will tell you price. Larry
oliver 70 standard
IP: 66.244.71.30 Posted on January 19, 2003 at 01:00:00 PM by Lori
Do you know the tire and wheel size for oliver 70 standard? Or could you tell me where to find information? Also need to know paint info. Thanks
Re(1): oliver 70 standard IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on January 20, 2003 at 08:08:20 AM by Larry Harsin
The Oliver 70 Standard - front wheels - the most popular was a pressed steel wheel with an integral rim was designed for a 5.50x16 tire. There are 3 choices for rear rims on the 70 Standard. They were for 10x24 or 11x24 or 12x24. The book shows that for the 11 and 12 tires, the same rim was used. However for the 10x24, a narrower rim was used. The paint on the 70 Standard - green is Martin Senour 99L-11513. Red is Martin Senour 99L-3752. Yellow is Dupont Dulux 029. Larry
1855 Tractor price?
IP: 216.106.56.89 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 12:55:22 AM by Jason Epperson
There is an 1855 gas tractor coming up at an auction in the near future. It has 2600 hours on it with like new 18.4-38 tires onit. This tractor looks really good from the photo. What is something like this worth? Thanks.
Re(1): 1855 Tractor price? IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on January 19, 2003 at 05:58:48 AM by Larry Harsin
I wouldn't want to go more than $4000-$4500 on an auction. Larry
1600 Oliver
IP: 12.213.101.166 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 09:26:24 PM by Dale Glass####
Wondering if a 1600 Oliver diesel would be worth $4850.00? Seems to be in good condition. Thanks
Re(1): 1600 Oliver IP: 209.163.7.5 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 06:24:21 AM by Larry Harsin
That would be at the top end of the price range. Is it all there? Larry
Re(2): 1600 Oliver IP: 12.213.101.166 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 10:51:20 AM by Dale Glass####
Yes, and has an extra set of drive wheels and tires. There are no visible oil leaks, and starts right up with no blue smoke. 75hp engine. Thanks for your help.
Re(3): 1600 Oliver IP: 152.163.188.165 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 07:48:29 PM by Don-WI
Unless it has a rebuilt engine with a larger bore in there, or the fuel pump turned up, it should only have close to 60 HP. My 1600 gasser has the smaller bore, but I am putting in a much larger bore as of right now. Are the tires on there very good? how bout' the spares? Check and make sure the hydra power isn't leaking for sure, just to be safe. I have once heard of something that could be done to some of them that would stop the leak, cant remember what it was but maybe Larry would remember. Other wise sounds like a very fine tractor. Don
Paint Scheme
IP: 12.81.200.117 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 06:42:53 PM by Russ Shorten
I'm looking for the proper paint scheme for a 1948 Model 60 wide front- in the area of the "bullnose" casting which houses the front axle pivot.This would be the red portion. Thanks!!!!!!!
Re(1): Paint Scheme IP: 209.163.7.5 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 06:22:27 AM by Larry Harsin
In the pictures we have of restored WF 60's, the "bullnose" casting is green with a yellow 60. It was red on some of the 70's. Larry
2255 Oliver
IP: 12.150.142.7 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 05:48:33 PM by Greg Davis
Is the 3150 Caterpillar engine in the 2255 Oliver a good engine? Haven't heard the greatest things about the 3208 but haven't heard much about the 3150. Thanks, Greg Davis
Re(1): 2255 Oliver IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 06:31:17 PM by Larry Harsin
The 3150 is reputed to be a longer life engine than the 3208. I don't know, it's just what I have heard. I believe it to be a good engine. Larry
holly distributer
IP: 64.33.187.148 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 05:11:08 PM by Darrell Folie
Do you have or know a source for the plate in a Holly distributer for the "50" series tractors? The Oliver part number is 159 766-A?
Re(1): holly distributer IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 06:28:48 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224. Those things are getting about impossible to find. Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 shows that they rebuild them, perhaps they would have the part you need. Larry
1600- 283 rebuild kit below
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 11:35:22 PM by Don
Larry- would the 283 rebuild kit below fit in my 1600? The bore and stroke should be the same size with what I want to put in, so would the O.D. on the sleeeve's be the same? or would the sleeves have a thicker wall to them? Just trying some different routes I could possibly go with it. Don
Re(1): 1600- 283 rebuild kit below IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 07:07:34 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it should fit. There are rebuild kits available as you describe. These will have a downward contour in the piston. Larry
Oliver 60 water pump
IP: 32.101.22.110 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 07:46:33 PM by Bob H.
When I restored my 60 Oliver standard I was unable to get a 60 waterpump. My local dealer sold me one for a 66 which fits perfectly,but the tractor heats. I also put in a new thermostat. Is there some difference in the two waterpumps that I have overlooked?
Re(1): Oliver 60 water pump IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 07:57:30 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know that there is a difference, but you should take the water pump off and compare them side by side. There may be some difference in the water routing in the pump or something. Maybe you should consider rebuilding the 60 pump and putting it back on the tractor. Larry
Oliver 60 water pump
IP: 32.101.22.110 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 08:25:14 PM by Bob H.
Thanks for the promt reply. The tractor didn't have a water pump on it when I bought it. I have had it off and the outlets to the head match perfectly but it doesn't seen to circulate, very much. I have a 60 rowcrop, I will have to switch waterpumps and try that I quess. The row crop cools fine. Bob H. Thanks
1855 hydraulics
IP: 216.81.222.75 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 12:28:44 AM by Howard Clark
Yesterday when I fired up my recently aquired and recommissioned 1855, it sounded like the hydraulic pump was cavitating, and the hydraulic system was essentially non-functional until the tractor warmed up a bit, then it was ok. The oil looks a little bit milky, like it has moisture in it (new oil). My inclination is that I need to dump the oil, drain the system dry, then refill with new oil. Any other suggestions ? (I have no heated space large enough to work on it indoors). Would running the tractor long enough to get the oil hot boil the moisture out of it ? Insights appreciated.
Re(1): 1855 hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 07:53:39 PM by Larry Harsin
I'd be inclined to put new oil in it and change the filter as it tells you in your Operator's Manual. Running the tractor long enough to get some of the moisture out will not solve your problem. I would warm it up some before draining the oil out of it. Larry
oliver 70
IP: 63.65.188.54 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 09:20:27 PM by barry bailey
is there any way to tell the year of tractor when the tag is missing.
Re(1): oliver 70 IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:51:19 PM by Larry Harsin
Look under the transmission housing. Many times the year is cast on there. Larry
early 40's 70
IP: 63.65.188.154 Posted on January 15, 2003 at 07:47:41 PM by barry bailey
thank you for the help,i hope it's there
Oliver 1365 starter
IP: 208.134.206.203 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 06:28:42 PM by Don Becker
Looking for help on assembling starter wiring, namely the 4 small wires coming from the field ciol windings. Also, any help on the starter clutch assembly, I can stall the starter drive by hand with the armiture spinng? Thank you in advance. Don
Re(1): Oliver 1365 starter IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:49:56 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have that information. You should get a Service Manual from Mary Ann at Charles City: fchs@fiai.net. If you need parts for this tractor, check this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
550 wheels
IP: 207.67.12.125 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 05:53:09 PM by Greg
Would like to pull the rear wheels on my 550 to clean the rims. The rubber is in great shape, but they're also filled with fluid. So they're about 700 pounds too unmanageable. Is there a trick to evacuting the fluid so that I can muscle these into my pickup?
Re(1): 550 wheels IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:46:01 PM by Larry Harsin
I would have my tire dealer pump it out before removing them from the tractor. Larry
550 oil leak from tranny
IP: 207.67.12.125 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 05:50:41 PM by Greg
Have a 1961 55 gas that is dripping oil from the brake cross-over shaft on the left side. Leak isn't terrible, but I was wondering how this is sealed? Is it an oil seal or a tolerance fit, brass bushing or what? My I&T manual doesn't offer any information. How diifcult is this to get to?
Re(1): 550 oil leak from tranny IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on January 15, 2003 at 06:39:59 AM by Larry Harsin
It is an oil seal - part number E930. The shaft has to be removed before you can install a new seal. Larry
Oliver Paint
IP: 207.42.36.213 Posted on January 12, 2003 at 08:58:58 PM by Kris Rutko
Hi! I'm getting ready to paint my 1950 77 and I'm looking for PPG paint codes on the green red and yellow. Any info appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver Paint IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 07:06:19 AM by Larry Harsin
PPG can convert these codes to their numbers. The green is Dupont Dulux 019. The red for all Olivers is Martin Senour red 99L-3752. The yellow for the Fleetlines is 99L-11611. Larry
Paint numbers
IP: 207.42.32.74 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 05:05:56 PM by Kris Rutko
Dupont or Senyour numbers won't cross to PPG for Oliver Green, Red, Yellow. My supplier tried to enter the numbers into the system and it was a no go. Any other suggestions appreciated.
Re(1): Paint numbers IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:42:08 PM by Larry Harsin
That is all the info we have. Perhaps you should try another supplier. Do you have some part with some paint on it that your supplier can match? Larry
sleeve and piston set
IP: 216.106.56.70 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 04:15:22 PM by Jason Epperson
I have a sleeve and piston set for a waukesha 283 gas engine that I would like to sell. It comes with the sleeves, pistons, rings, wristpins, and sealing rings for the sleeves. This set is old but hasn't been used and is in the original box. Is there anyone interested in this set? Thank you.
Re(1): sleeve and piston set IP: 205.188.209.139 Posted on January 15, 2003 at 09:26:08 PM by Don
If Larry thinks it would fit in my old 1600, I might be interested. I plan on making it a 283 when I'm done, so as long as the sleeves are the same I would love to. Are they 3 7/8" bore? I have my engine out now and have the head off. Now I have to take off the oil pan and start from that side. Don
Re(2): sleeve and piston set IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 07:12:16 AM by Larry Harsin
I have talked to Jason about this sleeve and piston set. These are flat topped pistons for a diesel. A 1600 gas needs the piston with the concave in the top. Larry
Re(3): sleeve and piston set IP: 216.106.56.44 Posted on January 17, 2003 at 08:28:25 AM by Jason Epperson
Larry and I came to the conclusion that this set fits a 1650 diesel or an 1800 c series diesel. I am asking 300 dollars for the set if anyone is interested. Thanks
Re(4): sleeve and piston set IP: 152.163.189.99 Posted on January 18, 2003 at 00:08:38 AM by Don
Dang, mine's a gas. Only a 231 right now, but am giving her a few extra horse to play with. Outta work pretty nice on the forage blower when I'm done with 'er Don
Re(4): sleeve and piston set IP: 67.3.78.169 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 12:06:34 AM by Gary Veldhuizen
Are the pistons flat top or do they have wholes for valves and injectors. are you flexible on your price?
Re(5): sleeve and piston set IP: 67.3.78.169 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 12:02:12 AM by Gary Veldhuizen
Do you still have the piston and sleeve set. If you do i might be interested in them.
88 transmission oil
IP: 195.93.49.12 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 03:04:51 PM by Chris
How much oil should I put in my row crop 88 transmission? Thanks, Chris.
Re(1): 88 transmission oil IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:33:43 PM by Larry Harsin
Put number 80-90 weight oil in it til it runs out the test plug on the right rear of the bull gear housing. It will hold approx. 5 gal. You should get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
1255 oliver
IP: 12.64.210.193 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 01:52:59 PM by eric
larry what do you know about 1255 oliver tractor 3 cyl fiat diesel,would like to find loader if they made one.it runs great just no power steeering or loader appreciate any info thankyou eric
Re(1): 1255 oliver IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:30:48 PM by Larry Harsin
I have never worked on a 1250. I just know they are very good tractors. At one time, Oliver built a number 1510 loader for that tractor. There are various loaders being made today that will fit on that tractor. Check with a dealer in your area that sells loaders. Larry
18-27 cyl head
IP: 195.93.33.12 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 03:10:13 PM by Chris
part # C180F = kd part # C180E C180G C180H = all HC heads What dose the letter on the end mean? I want to get a spare set of valves for my 18-27, will valves from all the above heads interchange? Also will pistons and sleeves from an Oliver 80 fit in an 18-27 block? Thanks for any help, Chris.
Re(1): 18-27 cyl head IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 08:06:29 PM by Larry Harsin
I think they will all fit and I think the sleeves and pistons from an Oliver 80 will fit. The letters mean there is a difference. Some of the heads are thicker an require valves with longer valve stems. When you go to ordering valves, you want to specify the overall length of the valve. Also, in most cases, there are part numbers on the valves. This may be helpful. Larry
Re(2): 18-27 cyl head IP: 195.93.49.7 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 02:55:12 PM by Chris
Do you know where can I get Valves from? Thanks Chris.
Re(3): 18-27 cyl head IP: 209.163.7.16 Posted on January 14, 2003 at 10:25:41 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Another person you could check with is Arnold Meyer at: almeyer@frontiernet.net. Or check with Tom Underwood at 785-749-5231. Larry
Re(4): 18-27 cyl head IP: 195.93.48.13 Posted on January 16, 2003 at 02:45:16 PM by Chris
thanks for your help. Chris.
1940 Oliver 70
IP: 67.24.85.174 Posted on January 12, 2003 at 11:08:18 PM by Ken Schmidt
I am looking at a 1940 Oliver 70. I noticed the intake/exhaust manifold is on the right of the block. Is this stock for older Oliver tractors. Thanks Ken
Re(1): 1940 Oliver 70 IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 07:07:43 AM by Larry Harsin
Thats the way all of the 70's were built. Larry
66 Oliver hydraulics
IP: 199.120.82.225 Posted on January 12, 2003 at 07:24:13 PM by Larry
My father is looking to convert an Oliver 66 with the mechanical lift system to hydraulic. He has alot of hydraulic parts/pieces for the 77,88, 770,880 but the hydraulic base is too wide for the 66.
Re(1): 66 Oliver hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 07:02:21 AM by Larry Harsin
The base, the pump and the reservoir are all different than the 66. The pump has a thinner center plate and gear set on the 66. Contact Doug Johnson at: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. He may have the parts you need. Larry
Super 55 diesel
IP: 199.224.79.177 Posted on January 12, 2003 at 06:47:26 PM by Jack Gaul
Hellow Larry !After rebuilding my 55 diesel incl.pistons liners,valve job,rebuilt inj.&pump finding that it dosn't like cold weather.Is this normal?How did the new ones do? PS my super 99GM will start at O.Thanks JackDee Deere Hunter
Re(1): Super 55 diesel IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 06:59:39 AM by Larry Harsin
The S55 was never a good starter in cold weather. I'd just put a coolant heater on it and plug it in for a bit when I wanted to use it. Also, use of ether, (sparringly!) works very well. Larry
unknown tractor model
IP: 68.10.27.17 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 06:30:41 PM by Jessie
I have just purchased an oliver tractor and I have no idea what model it is. can you help? the serial number is 13 947-518 also I was wondering where I might find pto parts for this tractor.
Re(1): unknown tractor model IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 09:21:33 PM by Larry Harsin
What does your tractor look like? Is it a Utility style or a Large RC or what? It could possibly be an 1800 C series. Some of the numbers off the side of the engine block might be helpful. Larry
Re(2): unknown tractor model IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 09:27:46 PM by Larry Harsin
Rechecking our numbers, we have decided it is probably a 1955 model S55. Larry
Re(1): unknown tractor model IP: 68.10.27.17 Posted on January 12, 2003 at 05:43:17 PM by Jessie
The tractor looks about like a ford 8n there are two numbers cast into the engine block the top number is 180220E the bottom number is 1L100B. The specification number is 15-0041, there is also a number cast into the hydraulic oil housing under the seat that reads 1E-2001. I hope this info will help, thanks for helping me out!
Re(2): unknown tractor model IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 06:55:50 AM by Larry Harsin
Your very first sentence told us it is a Super 55. They are very desirable tractors to have. Larry
Re(3): unknown tractor model IP: 68.10.27.17 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 06:12:35 PM by Jessie
Thanks for the info! Any idea where I can get some p.t.o. parts?
Re(4): unknown tractor model IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on January 13, 2003 at 08:08:53 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or from Rick's Agri-Parts at www.ricksagriparts.com. Larry
2255 transmission problem
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 08:03:40 AM by matt
My 2255 stuck in 4th gear and when I got it out I had lost 4th & 6th gears. I removed the transmission cover but I can't really see anything wrong,what else should I look for?
Re(1): 2255 transmission problem IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 09:15:57 PM by Larry Harsin
Oh my!! You might have a sprung fork or a broken fork. You might have mounting bolts loose on that fork. It could be a broken shift rail. You will just have to keep searching til you find something. Larry
1650 short or long block
IP: 209.224.19.156 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 08:05:15 PM by kevin m.
I HAVE A 1650 AND WAS WOUNDERING HOW TO TELL IF I HAVE A SHORT OR LONG BLOCK, BY THE SERIAL #? YEAR? THANKS.
Re(1): 1650 short or long block IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 10:12:10 PM by Larry Harsin
If you have a 1650 and it is running, it has a long block. A long block is simply a complete engine. A short block is an engine without the cylinder head or fly wheel. Larry
Re(2): 1650 short or long block IP: 209.224.35.204 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 11:21:12 PM by kevin m.
thanx!
12 Volt Pos Ground
IP: 155.91.6.72 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 06:14:55 PM by Parker
Larry, I recently picked up a "49 88 that looks to be all original. It has a 12 volt battery with a positive ground. Is this possible? I'm thinking someone stuck a 12V battery in a 6 volt system. It seems to run fine on the 12V battery. Whas this originally a 6V pos ground system? Thanks, Parker
Re(1): 12 Volt Pos Ground IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 10:10:09 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. It was originally 6 volt positive ground. Larry
Oliver 55
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 05:47:29 PM by Bill
How do I find out what tractor I have? I know it is an Oliver -- supposed to be a Super 55 -- How do I determine what it really is?
Re(1): Oliver 55 IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 10:07:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Send us the serial number. It can be found on the belly in the area of the clutch housing. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 55 IP: 64.12.96.205 Posted on January 10, 2003 at 02:16:58 PM by Bill
The shield on the left side of the transmission reads as follows:
Oliver Corporation
Charles City, Iowa
Specification number
15-0007
Serial number
8011-518
Oliver Tractor
Made in USA
Re(3): Oliver 55 IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 09:25:02 PM by Larry Harsin
It is an Oliver S55 built in 1954. The first year of the Super 55's. Larry
Re(4): Oliver 55 IP: 205.188.208.133 Posted on January 21, 2003 at 08:56:19 AM by Bill
Thanks for the info. Now I know what to get for manuals, etc. I really appreciate your help. Bill Fussell
Restoring a 770
IP: 156.63.252.23 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 08:19:29 AM by chris pileski
larry, i'm letting our local FFA chapter do some mechanical work on my 1963 770. right now the main problem is a stuck clutch plate. i'm not a mechanic at all, but on the right side of what i would call the bell housing, there is a plate that measures about 3" by 5". what is that plate? and, would taking that off and looking in there help at all in unsticking the clutch? thanks a lot. i love your site, maybe someday i'll be mechanically inclined.
Re(1): Restoring a 770 IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 10:06:05 PM by Larry Harsin
That is just a little inspection plate. I don't think you will get anything accompolished by removing it. I think you will just have to remove the bell housing and take the clutch off the fly wheel. Then see what is wrong with it. Larry
Carter Carburetor
IP: 66.66.115.105 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 08:16:17 PM by Jim
I also have a carburetor problem. I have a Super 55 (1955) My carb. is getting plenty of gas but acts like it is starving. The tractor will start and run for about 15 seconds before stalling. I cannot start it again unless I let the tractor sit for a minute. Then it starts up again and purrs before stalling. I have replaced the float and needle as well as the gaskets in the carb. I have adjusted the flow screws according to the service manual but still no luck in keeping it running. I changed the plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor and condensor as well as the coil. I even had the generator rebuilt and installed a new regulator. I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Any pointers from anyone who has had similar problems would be appreciated.
Re(1): Carter Carburetor IP: 66.66.115.105 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 08:40:20 PM by Jim
Larry, I should also note that I have cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. When I disconnect the tubing going to the carb and open the shut-off...gas pours right out.
Re(2): Carter Carburetor IP: 209.53.222.126 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 08:50:53 AM by Stu
My carter carb does the exact same thing. I assume that its the carb anyway. Looking forward to hear the replies. STU
Re(3): Carter Carburetor IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on January 9, 2003 at 10:02:53 PM by Larry Harsin
Screw the fuel strainer out of the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure there is not a bunch of stuff in the neck of the strainer. Larry
what years 770's built
IP: 170.76.19.10 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 03:47:01 PM by kraig
Larry, I have 770 and the serial number plate is missing. I check under the thermostst as you suggested. The engine was made in 1958 which leads me to beleive it is a '58 or maybe '59 model. What year did oliver change the style of the grill, finders and decals? Mine has the clam shell finder, oval emblem on the front and the old style decals. Thanks for the help. KM
Re(1): what years 770's built IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 07:49:48 PM by Larry Harsin
You have the early production 770, the first year they built them - 1958. They came with different grills etc. in the mid 60's. Larry
Carb - Super 55
IP: 192.219.127.235 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 02:57:54 PM by Stu
I have a Carter UT2257S carb on the ol Super55. Its about done its time. I need a kit or a replacement. The Carter is one of three makes that the tractor had on originally. I wonder, to broaden my search, can I swap on a Zenith or a Schebler without any adaptor? OR! Can I put on any single barrel carb for a 4cyl engine that fits, like from some old Datsun or something. If so, can anyone give me an few makes model of cars/trucks to search in the wreckers for. STU
Re(1): Carb - Super 55 IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on January 8, 2003 at 07:47:09 PM by Larry Harsin
You can install a Schebler without an adaptor. Get a TSX603 or a TSX694. What's the matter with your Carter? Is it shot or can it be fixed? I have a few parts - like a bowl gasket and a float. I've never had a Carter that didn't work. You may be able to get parts to repair the Carter at your Case/IH Dealer. They used that carb on the C and SC Farmall's. One from a little car will not work. Larry
Thanks Larry!
IP: 192.219.127.235 Posted on January 10, 2003 at 03:12:10 PM by Stu
Unbelievable site and advice Larry. Thank you very much for the help you have given me directly in my questions, and for the help you have given others. I read all postings and have learned a lot about R&M of Oliver tractors. Stu
Re(1): Thanks Larry! IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on January 11, 2003 at 06:02:43 AM by Larry Harsin
Sandy and I enjoy hearing from all of you Oliver collectors and helping you when we can. We want to keep those Olivers running. Larry
pto clutches
IP: 209.142.163.110 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 06:15:05 PM by tony ray
i have oliver 55 gas . i think it 55 model. is there any way to adjust the pto clutches if not where can i find them? i live in tennessee somewhere close would be good.
Re(1): pto clutches IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 07:27:58 PM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual first. Get one from Mary Ann at Charles City: fchs@fiai.net There will be a charge of approx. $25. There is an inspection hole under the belly of the tractor. It is about a 4 inch hole. This is where you can adjust the PTO clutch. If you need parts, contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Or Rick's Argi-Parts has them - contact ricksagriparts.com Larry
oliver 60
IP: 216.161.97.93 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 12:11:03 AM by carl brevig
i have been looking for the complete square seat assembly for a 1946 oliver 60. can you help me out? thanks carl
Re(1): oliver 60 IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 07:22:57 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have one. Check with Arnold Meyer at: almeyer@frontiernet.net. He may have one. Larry
Super 99
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 12:10:46 AM by Patrick Murphy
Dear Larry: My 85 year young father in law purchased a super 99 back in 1975 it had been used by a rice farmer and set up for years before he got it. Since its purchase it had only been started a couple of times throughout the last several years. I'm mechanically incline but never worked on tractors. This tractor started right up after being pulled off by a small john deer. The problems are as follows, No breaks, and most of all no PTO rotation, the lever that goes into the PTO housing moves freely if not too easy and the shaft shows movement on opposite side of housing, but no resistance and no feel of shifting and no PTO I would like to refurbish this tractor especially after seeing the others out here on the web. Q. How major of a job would it be to repair the PTO and how expensive are parts to complete the repairs. The tractor is in relatively good shape thank you P Murphy
Re(1): Super 99 IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 07:21:19 PM by Larry Harsin
The PTO sounds like it is probably a clutch problem. You'll have to take the cover off the back end of the unit and see what is wrong with it. Parts aren't real difficult to get. Tom at O'Brien Co Impl is a good source of parts 800-320-6224. As far as the brakes are concerned, they will have to be taken apart. I'm sure they are full of dirt and grease. Disassemble them and determine what needs to be replaced. You will be well rewarded for your troubles of working on this tractor as a S99 is a high demand tractor. Larry
Gas to Diesel
IP: 206.157.187.197 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 02:38:29 PM by Timm
I am considering switching my 283 waukesha from gas to diesel, can this be done with the current gas block that I have. Thanks.
Re(1): Gas to Diesel IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 05:52:54 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. It is possible. Larry
880 clutch problems
IP: 216.106.56.49 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 10:55:06 AM by Jason Epperson
My dad has a 1958 model 880 gas that he has owned for years. It seems that it has always had a gear clashing problem when shifting gears. I took the tractor apart and put in a new clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. I noticed when I took the throwout bearing off that the tube it rides on had come out of the bellhousing and had moved forward enough that it wasn't letting the clutch disk completely release from the flywheel. I put in a new tube and along with all the other new parts. The tractor shifted fine for a couple of hours and then started acting like it used to. So I took it apart again and the tube had come out again. So this time I took a center punch and made some dimple marks on the inside part of the bellhousing casting to make the tube fit tighter. This worked for a while but now it is doing it again. My question is. What keeps making this tube come out? Am I missing something? Everything else looks to be in good condition. Thanks in advance.
Re(1): 880 clutch problems IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 05:51:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Apparently your bell housing is worn enough that the tube is not staying in there. I would replace the bell housing or weld the tube in place. Larry
70
IP: 208.31.75.183 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 09:02:48 PM by Chad
I have a 1944 Oliver 70. It hardly has any power. It will barely pull itself up a hill in first gear and it won't hardly take off in fourth gear or higher without getting it rolling first. I know the sixth cyllinder has lower compression than it should and it does keep fouling that plug. The other cyllinders have good compression. Is this the problem and what would be the easiest fix?
Re(1): 70 IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 06:10:57 AM by Larry Harsin
If you have one cylinder that is low, you are going to have to take the head off and examine it and see what it needs. You may have to do a valve job. Also, if much wear is evident in the cylinders, an overhaul may be in order. Larry
1850 high altitude ?
IP: 63.140.120.102 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 07:28:43 PM by curt smith
larry looking at a 1850 that has an original oliver sticker on the side panel that claims the tractor to be certified for 1000 feet above sea level. what does this all mean and is it rare in the 1850 models ?? love this site thanks for all your knowledge and advice !!!
Re(1): 1850 high altitude ? IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 06:06:47 AM by Larry Harsin
No. Most of the Oliver's built in this Era had certified horsepower. This was simply a selling tool that the company used. All 1850 model tractors were certified to produce at least 92 hp on the PTO. They wouldn't guarantee that the tractor would produce that much hp if the altitude was higher than what is stated on the sticker. All of those tractors had that sticker on them. The tractor is not rare. Thanks for the compliments to our website. Larry
Super 55 3pt freezing?
IP: 65.127.130.137 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 04:27:59 PM by Dennis
Great site! I have a Super 55 (gas) #47 237 518 that I use for snow removal. In extreme Iowa cold the 3pt won't lift for 15-30 min. after startup. Works fine above freezing. I'm guessing I have water in the fluid freezing something up and then it thaws. If so how is this drained and what fluid should I replace it with? Also can you tell me what year this old girl is? Thanks a bunch.
Re(1): Super 55 3pt freezing? IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 05:59:29 AM by Larry Harsin
Your S55 was built in 1957. There should be a pipe plug on the right side of the unit, below and just ahead of the seat. Remove this plug and start the engine and pump the fluid out. I would use 5W-30 engine oil as the replacement fluid. I would also remove the hydraulic filter and either clean it or replace it. Larry
Super 55 Hydraulic Filter
IP: 192.219.127.235 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 05:14:32 PM by Stu
Can a person remove the hydraulic filter for cleaning or replacing while the reservoir is still full of fluid?
Re: Super 55 Hydraulic Filter IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 05:54:24 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, you can. Larry
770 Clutch/PTO Problem
IP: 24.169.120.85 Posted on January 4, 2003 at 08:18:02 PM by Justin
Larry, I have a gas powered 770, no power booster. If the tractor is running in neutral and I disengage the clutch, I often hear an awful squealing noise and cannot get the tractor in gear. I can see that the driveshaft running out of the clutch and into the transmission slows down, then spins up and makes the squealing noise when the clutch is pressed. Originally I thought it may be a pilot bearing problem, but am wondering if the pto shaft may be making enough contact with the hollow driveshaft to spin it. Is this a situation you have come across? Should I be looking for worn bushings/bearings on the PTO shaft rather that problems in the clutch? Right now I have the tractor in the shop with all the panels removed, and am ready to pull the motor. Can I completely remove the PTO shaft from the rear of the tractor and look for worn areas? Should I do this before I take the clutch apart and pull the motor? Should the entire PTO shaft be lubricated inside the hollow driveshaft? If so, what would be the best thing to use? Thanks in advance for your advice
Re(1): 770 Clutch/PTO Problem IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 07:14:39 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing I would do is remove the long PTO drive shaft and look it over. Then, I would start the tractor engine and see if the symptoms have changed any. You won't need to pull the engine to get at the engine clutch. If you need to disassemble the clutch, simply lay the engine dash up on the engine and disconnect the drive shaft in front of the transmission and proceed thusly. I find this is much easier than disconnecting all the wiring and draining anti-freeze etc. Let me know what you find. Larry
It's the pilot bearing - clutch wear question
IP: 24.169.120.85 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 01:39:52 PM by Justin
Larry, I pulled the PTO shaft - it had some gummy stuff on it, but no signs of coming in contact with anything. Pulled the motor and took the clutch apart. The pilot bearing is very sticky (can't turn it by hand) and the driveshaft has been spinning inside it. The end of the shaft is shiny, but does not appear to be worn. After replacing the bearing, would it be a good idea to put some thread-locker on the shaft to help keep it from spinning in the new bearing?
Also, while this is apart I'm wondering if it's time for a new clutch disk. The flywheel and pressure plate look good and show no signs of wear. The friction disk looks good, and measures roughly 19/64" thick. I don't know how thick a new disk is, but I can see that the rivets are getting close to the surface on this one. Should I replace it?
The coupler that connects the clutch driveshaft to the transmission has a bolt on the tranny side which works like a set screw. The tip which fits into the transmission shaft was broken off and floating between the coupler and PTO shaft. Do I simply replace this bolt, or is there be something I should check for which may have caused this? The teeth look pretty worn, but replacement looks like a project for another time, unless it can be easily replaced without pulling the tranny apart. Thanks again - sorry for the long/multiple questions.
Re(1): It's the pilot bearing - clutch wear question IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on January 6, 2003 at 05:52:32 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know if it is necessary to put thread lock on the shaft. You can, it won't hurt anything. If the rivets are getting close, replace the clutch disk. If the teeth are worn bad enough, this will cause the tip of the bolt to break off. You will probably have to replace the input shaft and the coupling. You'll have to remove the hydraulic unit from the top of the transmission, then replacement of the input shaft is easy. Explanitory questions like yours are much better than not knowing what all you are talking about. Larry
550 carb problems
IP: 207.220.93.63 Posted on January 3, 2003 at 09:24:02 PM by Greg
Have a 1961 550 gas with a Marvel-Schebler TSX811 carburator. Did a total rebuild and she ran shortly, but died. Seems to be good spark, but I'm suspecting fuel/carb problems. Carb was totally gummed up from 10 yrs of neglect. I had to tear it down and thoroughly clean. Not sure if I got the settings right. My I&T manual doesn't identify adjustment locations nor does it recommend approximate settings. Can you help??
Re(1): 550 carb problems IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on January 4, 2003 at 08:15:28 PM by Larry Harsin
The load needle setting is approx 1 and 1/2 turns open. The idle needle is approx. 3/4 turn open. Larry
Re(2): 550 carb problems IP: 207.220.85.126 Posted on January 5, 2003 at 12:35:59 AM by Greg
Thanks Larry. I'll use those settings when I try it again. First I need to get a replacement Main Adjustment needle. Found it broken! Would also like to get a new gasket. Any suggestions?
Re(3): 550 carb problems IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on January 7, 2003 at 05:56:46 AM by Larry Harsin
AGCO has those parts. If you don't have a local dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
super 55
IP: 204.101.190.226 Posted on January 3, 2003 at 05:30:40 PM by Paul
Well here I am again. A couple questions, first I removed the gas tank from my 55 as am going to need to split tractor to work on pto clutch as can see deformity in drive plates and can not rotate collar when pin pulled as linkage notches are still engaged so looks like so rebuild, but when I removed the tank something heavy and metal is moving around in tank but can not get to pass near the filler hole to see and can not bring to hole when hooked with a wire this is a front fill tank so filler is at front end. The other question is I want to remove the King pin from the spindle of front wheels to build up and relathe before I replace the bushings and thrust bearings, I see the bottom is welded and can burn this out but about 1 inch from the bottom on the inside is a raised bubble on the casting can you suggest whether this might be welded too or pinned or staked if welded I can bore out before I press off the spindle as I do not want to split casting and the way it is I can't spin on my lathe. Thanks for the time and information your site is great. Paul from Ontario.
Re(1): super 55 IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on January 3, 2003 at 07:05:26 PM by Larry Harsin
I think you are going at this wrong to split the tractor. You don't have to remove the fuel tank to split the tractor. You should get an I & T Service Manual that shows the "Z" split, from Charles City. Email Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. As for your work on the spindles, these spindles were not designed to be taken apart to be serviced, so you are on your own here. Good Luck. Larry
66 front wheel seals
IP: 65.179.105.48 Posted on January 2, 2003 at 01:51:28 AM by Chris Johnson
My oliver 66 is a tricycle with two wheels up front. I am rebuilding the front end wheel bearings and seals and the bearings were wore so bad they tore the seals up. I was able to id the bearings but I've had no luck with the seals. Thanks for your help Chris
Re(1): 66 front wheel seals IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on January 2, 2003 at 07:47:49 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He can tell you what you need and send them to you, if you want. Larry
88 sleeves
IP: 216.43.17.56 Posted on January 1, 2003 at 05:55:01 PM by Randy
How thick are 3.75 88 sleeves?
Re(1): 88 sleeves IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on January 1, 2003 at 06:24:29 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm guessing they are about 3/16 inch thick. Larry
55 super gas cap
IP: 206.47.184.223 Posted on January 1, 2003 at 08:54:57 AM by Paul
I was wondering what year the gas tank filler cap was trough the hood and not at the front of the tank under the rad fill cover. Thanks for the info and Happy New Year to All!!! Paul from Ontario.
Re(1): 55 super gas cap IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on January 1, 2003 at 06:22:44 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know for sure. It was in the later Supers. Larry