"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - January, 2006 Archives


1250 oliver

IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 08:28:00 PM by Smitty

I was wondering how to get the date of manufactor of my tractor it has the Fiat diesel engine. i'm thinking early 70's but would like to know for sure. It has roughly 1700 hrs on it and is pretty clean was wondering what its value might be today? any info would help thanks! Smitty

Re(1): 1250 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.178 Posted on January 26, 2006 at 05:38:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Look on the lower left side of your instrument panel and find the serial number. Email that number to us and we will tell you the year. These tractors were built from 1965 thru 1969. I don't know what the value will be. Check with Kurt Aumann. His website: www.aumannauctions.com Larry


1850 Diesel

IP: 24.220.216.32 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 07:45:30 PM by Chris

I just bought an 1850 real cheap with a stuck Perkins diesel motor and the hydra power not working. Was wondering a couple of things.

1st. Any good ways of getting the engine free?

2nd. If its not able to be freed up I have a perkins diesel out of a 750 Massey combine. Is it the same motor? I"ve looked at it just by eyeballing and it looks very similar.

3rd. Once the engine is running what will have to be done to remove adn fix the hydra power unit? Thanks in advance for your help. Chris

Re(1): 1850 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.178 Posted on January 26, 2006 at 05:30:12 AM by Larry Harsin

1. I would take the cylinder head off and see which piston is stuck and then go from there. You can soak it with penetrating oil and then tap on it with a hammer and a block of wood. After I get it unstuck, I would remove the piston and inspect it for wear and replace the rings if necessary or otherwise overhaul the engine.

2. That engine is very similar. The front cover and the water pump has to be changed. The manifolds are different. The bellhousing and flywheel are different.

3. To repair the hydra-power, it has to be removed from the tractor. Then, it will have to be torn down and inspected. I'd get a new gasket and seal package for it. I'd would probably replace the sprage clutch. Also, I'd make sure that the seat for the regulator valve on the lube circuit is o.k. Otherwise, I would install a new seat.

Larry


Oliver 1365

IP: 71.240.122.6 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 05:34:45 AM by Todd

Hello, I was interested in a Oliver 1365 That some one has to sell. Can you still get parts for them? In fairly good condition about how much are they worth? The tractor is 4wd and has a loader on it. Also how many Hp does it have? Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 1365

IP: 67.2.248.118 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 07:04:57 AM by Larry Harsin

You can still get parts. Here is a website that you can check out: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html It has 55 HP. I don't really know how to price it. We don't have them around here for me to see them sell. Price is all about condition. For value, you can contact Kurt Aumann. Website: www.aumannauctions.com or Ollie Schaefer at email: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry


1650 DEISEL TIMING

IP: 66.242.45.27 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 03:26:29 PM by MMiller

What is the best to run the vavles on a 1965 -1650 deisel after on tdc?

Re(1): 1650 DEISEL TIMING

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 10:40:53 PM by Larry Harsin

OOPS!!! The settings I gave you in the preceeding message were for a 1650 gas. For a 1650 diesel the settings are: 12 on the intake, 20 on the exhaust for the engine you have in a 1965 1650 diesel. The late 1650 diesel engine is different again. Larry


1650 timing

IP: 66.242.45.27 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 03:20:25 PM by MMiller

What is the best way to run the vavles ,after I have found tdc?

Re(1): 1650 timing

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 10:36:53 PM by Larry Harsin

When you have found TDC on the flywheel, it will be TDC # 1 or TDC # 6. To determine TDC # 1, you must watch the rocker arms on the #6 cylinder. You will need to back the flywheel up a quarter of a turn and then observe the rocker arms on #6 cylinder - when the exhaust closes and the intake just starts to open on #6, you will be at TDC #1 cylinder and the mark will show in the flywheel hole. Now, adjust #1 cylinder's valves, then proceed through the firing order 1/3 of a turn at a time per cylinder. The firing order is 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4. It takes 2 revolutions of the engine to go through all of the cylinders. The correct valve setting is 15 on the intake and 24 on the exhaust. OOPS!!! The settings I gave you were for a 1650 gas. For a 1650 diesel the settings are: 12 on the intake, 20 on the exhaust for the engine you have in a 1965 1650 diesel. The late 1650 diesel engine is different again. Larry


1955 PTO

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 10:36:30 AM by Jason

I have a 1955 with the dual speed PTO option, and when you run the PTO for a few minutes it will lock up killing the tractor. I have tried it in 540 and 1000 and it does the same in each. Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 1955 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 10:27:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I've not had this happen and I can't visualize what is wrong. I suppose you are going to have to pull the PTO unit out of the tractor and see what the problem is. Larry


waukesha engines

IP: 68.115.18.144 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 12:09:34 PM by steve

Hi, I.m not an oliver owner. red and orange are more our colors. We do have waukesha engines though. My father inlaw built them for 43 years. I was wondering if a 195gk waukesha is used in any oliver steve

Re(1): waukesha engines

IP: 67.2.248.61 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 05:58:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it was used in the Super 99. Larry

Re(2): waukesha engines

IP: 68.115.18.144 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 07:31:15 PM by steve

are you right about that larry?? tractor data.com lists the 99 and super99 with detroit diesels. this is a six cylinder engine i think the bore and stroke are 3.5x4 steve

Re(3): waukesha engines

IP: 67.2.177.249 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 08:18:56 PM by Mike

Yes he is right.


Loader on 1800

IP: 141.158.35.136 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 07:24:58 AM by Mike Anyone out there that could take a few measurements on an 1800 for me? I have a Ford I9-202 loader that I'm wondering about mounting on an 1800, WF, gas. Trouble is, I'm in PA with the loader and the tractor is in WI. First step is to get everything in the same place!

Mainly I'm trying to determine if the loader frame will fit around the belly of the 1800. It's a typical style loader - two arm, side frame mount with extensions to the rear axle. For sure the extensions to the rear axle would have to be lengthened, that's planned for.

The dimensions I think I need are:

1. outside width across the belly at the front and rear mounting pads (the ones cast into the tractor frame).

2. Distance from the front of the grille to the front mounting pads and to the rear mounting pads.

3. Outside width of the grille.

4. Outside width of the cowling, in the approximate area of the rear mounting pads.

This is a fair amount to ask for so if anyone is able to help out with the measurements, or offer any other thoughts or suggestions, it is highly appreciated. Thank you! Mike W.

Re(1): Loader on 1800

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 07:25:50 AM by Larry Harsin

1. The outside width across the belly at the front & rear mounting pads: 19 in. front - 21 in. rear.

2. Distance from the front of the grill to mounting pads: 19 in. to the front pad - 53 in. from the front of the grill to the rear pad - 34 in between the pads.

3. Outside width of the grill: 24 in.

4. Outside width of the cowling: 24 in. Larry

Re(2): Loader on 1800

IP: 12.40.117.220 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 10:32:05 AM by Mike

Thank you very much Larry. Really appreciate your taking those measurements. It'll be tight up front, but it should make it if the loader is shifted fwd a bit. Thanks again!


70 guages

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on January 21, 2006 at 02:12:15 PM by Johny Reynolds

Dear Mr.Harsin Our 1944 model 70 has three guages oil,water,amp.But it has a fourth hole below the middle guage.could there be another guage thatwould have been in that hole? thanks!

Re(1): 70 guages

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 06:42:16 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That may have been for an optional radiator shutter. There was a set of shutters on the front of the radiator on a few of the 70's of that vintage. You could open and close the shutters to control the engine temperature. Larry

Re(1): 70 guages

IP: 68.47.179.66 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 10:30:09 PM by David C. Baker

My 1948 70 Standard has white guages. I know for certain that these are original. People always say they were yellow. Also, we had a "field installed" radiator curtain: it was a flour sack that was held in place by the radiator cover! Worked great and was manually removed when the ol' gal warmed up! I started her up on Saturday; fired in about two turnovers and purred like a kitten.


oil

IP: 70.52.22.25 Posted on January 21, 2006 at 10:20:53 AM by wayne

Hi , I have a oliver 1370 ( fiat white), it calls for, depending on temp. 10w30 / 30 /or 20w20?? Can I use 15w40diesel oil as a year round substitute? My outdoor temp runs anywhere from roughly o to 90 f. Thanks for the info

Re(1): oil

IP: 67.2.182.38 Posted on January 21, 2006 at 03:13:06 PM by Mike

I myself would not run the 15w40 if the temp gets that low, otherwise that is all I use when temps are above 40. Thats just me, wait to see what Larry says because he is who I would listen to.

Re(2): oil

IP: 67.2.242.110 Posted on January 21, 2006 at 09:23:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I think 15w40 will be o.k. If it gets lower than 0*, I would go to 10w30. Larry


oil again

IP: 70.52.16.122 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 09:25:07 AM by wayne

hi again, The follow up question to my oil mystery is , what is the best all season grade of oil to use during the summer time ????(32 to 90 F.) THANKS AGAIN

Re(1): oil again

IP: 67.2.187.91 Posted on January 22, 2006 at 10:12:54 AM by Mike

15w40

Re(2): oil again

IP: 67.2.248.61 Posted on January 23, 2006 at 05:57:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd also reccommend 15w40. Larry


70 waterpump

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on January 20, 2006 at 06:24:49 PM by Johny Reynolds

we just bought an oliver 70.we think it is a 44 model the serial#is 245817 is this correct? we need to get water pump and the pulley for it.do you think you can help locate them? this is the fist oliver we have had and I will probably have a lot questions for you in the near future.Thanks

Re(1): 70 waterpump

IP: 67.2.249.117 Posted on January 20, 2006 at 07:04:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is a 1944 model. Call Valu-Bilt for these parts. 888-828-3276. I'll be glad to help whenever I can. Larry


66 oliver

IP: 66.243.205.135 Posted on January 20, 2006 at 04:34:15 AM by Ron Grother

did oliver ever make 66 LP from the factory. there is one on ebay. Thanks Ron

Re(1): 66 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on January 20, 2006 at 06:14:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Not that I am aware of. It might be a field conversion. Larry


66 radiator

IP: 216.163.124.187 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 09:56:38 PM by Bobby

will the radiator from a 66 fit a 60

Re(1): 66 radiator

IP: 67.2.242.110 Posted on January 19, 2006 at 06:31:08 AM by Larry Harsin

No, it won't. You might be able to adapt it somehow, but it won't just fit in there. Larry


550 generator

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 09:17:09 PM by john

hey larry how can i check to see if the generator on my 550 gas positive ground is charging? my amp light is on...and would like to know where to start. thanks

Re(1): 550 generator

IP: 67.2.242.110 Posted on January 19, 2006 at 06:29:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Simply use a jumper wire and connect it from the armature post on the generator to ground (frame of the tractor), while the tractor is running at a fast idle. If it sparks, the generator is working. Larry


Difference 550 agricuturual and 550 Industrial

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 07:24:06 PM by Larry

What are the primary differences between an Oliver 550 agricultural and a 550 industrial model tractor? The one I am looking at does not have a shuttle shift. To me it looks like a green 550 painted industrial yellow.

Re(1): Difference 550 agricuturual and 550 Industrial

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 08:21:34 PM by Larry Harsin

The main difference is the front axle. The Industrial axle is usually non-adjustable and has heavier spindles. Otherwise, they are identical. Larry


880 carbuerator linkage problem or rebuild?

IP: 63.238.115.195 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 12:53:50 PM by RB

I recently purchased a 1959 880 and I am able to move the throttle lever a long ways (five notches or so with no action)from the top notch before the idle increases and then another + few to the next spot of increase. Please advise.

Re(1): 880 carbuerator linkage problem or rebuild?

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on January 18, 2006 at 08:19:09 PM by Larry Harsin

There might be something broken on the carb throttle shaft or the arm to the shaft. The little linkage back under the dash may be worn out. It consists of 2 ball joints. Larry


66 governor

IP: 216.163.124.187 Posted on January 16, 2006 at 09:26:04 PM by Bobby

Will a 77 governor fit a 66? If not are the internal parts interchangable?

Re(1): 66 governor

IP: 67.2.242.16 Posted on January 17, 2006 at 05:59:16 AM by Larry Harsin

A 77 governor will work in a 66. Larry


1650 oil seals?

IP: 70.240.64.49 Posted on January 16, 2006 at 02:17:49 PM by Vernon Hargrave

I have a 1650 gas that is smoking and I can see oil at the studs where the carberator bolts to the manifold. I have run a compression check and have 195# across all 6 cylinders. The only thing that I can think of is maybe the oil bleeding down into the intake from bad seals.After pulling the valve cover to inspect the valve train, there are no visible signs of any valve seals. Do these engines even use a valve seal? If they do and it is one of the internal o-ring type, is there an external bonnet type that I could use?

I also remember seeing an earlier post about the timing for the 1650. I beleive you said to pull and plug the vacuum advance line and then set the timing @ 22 degree BTC at full throttle. I have the I&T manual for this tractor but several pages are missing ( the ones that tell how to set the timing). I have found the TDC mark on the fly wheel, but this is the only mark I can find. How do you know when you are at 22 degree BTC?

Re(1): 1650 oil seals?

IP: 67.2.248.93 Posted on January 16, 2006 at 07:45:57 PM by Larry Harsin

There are valve stem seals available for your 1650. I think what came on your engine, are the "O" ring style for the intakes only. Perfect Circle has a valve stem seal, but the head will have to be removed and the guides have to be machined to be able to install the seal. You can get these from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Umbrella type seals can be put on the valve stems also. Originally the tractor had an adhesive timing tape on the flywheel. You can also get one of those from Tom. After you find the TDC on your flywheel, put the tape on and it is marked off in degrees. Larry


starter for diesel engine

IP: 66.38.181.42 Posted on January 14, 2006 at 10:08:01 PM by Donpino

I have an oliver 70 year 1947. The original engine was worned out and I am changing it for a Volkswagen 1.6 liter diesel. I is in fact installed on the same flywheel and with the same starter ( Delco-Remy) than the original. However the starter is not strong enough and not does not turn enough to get the diesel engine going. I had previously overhauled the starter and it gives the best that it is designed for. I would not want to mess with the flywheel or the engine mounting plate, so would you happen to know is a more powerful starter that would fit in there with the same distances and fit. Would the starters for the oliver diesel or later years fit ?

Re(1): starter for diesel engine

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on January 15, 2006 at 06:48:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should take that starter to a Delco Remy Repair Shop or a Electrical Repair shop that works on starters and tell them what you are doing. As I recall, the 70 starter has only 2 field coils. I believe that one of these shops can put more field coils into the starter that you have and this might just do the trick. Starters from the later Olivers won't fit. Larry


oliver super 55

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on January 14, 2006 at 05:32:37 PM by eric

Could you tell me where I would find the serial number? I found a set of numbers on the block but they were the wrong ones. Not sure what year it is. Also any idea what a fair selling price would be, it has a frontend loader, 2 blade breaking plow, and blade. I have a man from Missouri interested. Thank you.

Re(1): oliver super 55

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on January 14, 2006 at 07:59:45 PM by Larry

The serial number plate should be on the left side of the tractor just above and ahead of the clutch peddle and under the battery tray.


1939 0liver 70 cracked block

IP: 64.45.254.100 Posted on January 12, 2006 at 10:46:22 AM by Chris

This block has internal cracks between cylinder holes. Getting water in #4 when running. No water in oil. Can I repair this block? External crack on side is repaired with epoxy.

Re(1): 1939 0liver 70 cracked block

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on January 13, 2006 at 06:40:04 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are getting water in #4 cylinder, I doubt if it is the block that is doing it. I would check the head gasket or for crack in the cylinder head. Otherwise, water could be coming through a crack in the engine sleeve, also the sleeve could be so badly deteriorated that it has rusted through. The internal cracks between the cylinder holes should not cause a problem. That is sort of a "70 thing". Larry


Oliver 1850 dsl engine

IP: 69.178.220.228 Posted on January 12, 2006 at 09:52:58 AM by Charles

I recently bought an 1850 and the engine went bad on me.I was told alot of times it's cheaper to buy an already rebuilt block. Do you know where I get find those? It's the perkins engine. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1850 dsl engine

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on January 13, 2006 at 06:35:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1850 dsl engine

IP: 216.46.213.211 Posted on January 13, 2006 at 09:52:27 AM by Randy

I spun a rod bearing in mine,wasted money having the crank ground and buying a reconditioned rod. It lasted about a year and went again. I went to Worthing Ag Parts in St.Johns Mi and bought a 354 out of a low hour White 8900 combine for $1750.00


1655 wide front

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on January 11, 2006 at 05:52:20 PM by Bill fleck

I have tried to research moving the wide front to 30' rows,it is a 74 year and I would like to have the front end set to 30". It seems it is a terrible chore to move it besides you have to pull it clear out and cut some off to make it go in all the way. Is there an easier way to get them broken loose.I wish I lived closer I'm 15 miles south east of Waterloo Ia. Thanks for your time. Billybob-Ia.

Re(1): 1655 wide front

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on January 12, 2006 at 07:24:49 AM by Carl

I hope Larry can offer some good help. I tried to narrow up a wide front on a 1650. I beat on it for several days, after soaking it oil. It still wouldn't move. I suppose I could have slit the tube open with my torch, but then it would look crappy. In the end, I gave up on it.

Re(2): 1655 wide front

IP: 216.46.213.46 Posted on January 12, 2006 at 07:50:10 AM by Randy

Guess that answers a question that I've had for 5 years. I put a loader on my 1600 and tried to narrow up the front end. I've been running it with the clamps loose all that time thinking it would work its self loose. Hasn't happened yet,probably never will.

Re(3): 1655 wide front

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on January 12, 2006 at 10:10:10 AM by J. Ulmer

My insurance agent bought a Case-IH 3 years ago which was only 10 years old. It had been used at a feed-lot with a front end loader and he wanted to change the spacing as well for row crop use. The dealership, a welding shop and a machine shop heated, beat, soaked, cussed, and after removing the entire tube assembly, heating the whole thing and beating and pulling with a frame and hydraulic cylinders rigged for the purpose broke it loose. It was a large diameter square tube and rust, manure, dirt, paint, corrosion, ect had effectively joined the two parts. His $16,000 tractor now has row-crop spacing, but is a $20,500 tractor. Finding another front which has been moved or is right would be probably cheaper and easier and less frustrating. Good Luck!! P.S. Jim ran his bouncing it over everything imanagable also trying to shake it loose including down railroad tracks and caddy-cross across listed furrows!!!

Re(4): 1655 wide front

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on January 13, 2006 at 06:32:45 AM by Larry Harsin

We have been gone for a couple of days. We are enjoying everyone's comments on this subject. :) I have always been able to get this done until this winter I had one that I "heat and beat" for a day and a half. Then, I had to take it to my welding shop, where 2 men worked on it a whole day. They "heat and beat" also. They heated the outside tube and cooled the inside tube at the same time. This doesn't just happen real quick, it is a long drawn out procedure. They also used big pipe wrenches with long cheater bars to twist the axle. This is a lot of hard work and more than one man can do by himself. It cost me $350 and they earned their money. Larry

Re(5): 1655 wide front

IP: 152.163.100.66 Posted on January 13, 2006 at 06:19:38 PM by Bill Fleck

Thank you Larry for your help,we would like to get it painted, and we mow with it and need to go down 30" rows to the water ways,maybe just run down a row of corn not worth to much anyway, just joking, just don't want to do it after it is painted. Thanks again. Bill Fleck


1655 front end IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on January 24, 2006 at 06:00:48 PM by Bill Fleck

Larry, I wrote to you about setting the tractor to 30" rows, a mechanic friend of mine said bring it over, you help and we will get it done.Jacked her up heated the outside tube,put a big pipewrench on the innertube, and with a 16 pound mall worked it forward and back got it done, we didn't turn the hubs on the back to the outside but it is good enough to go down 30' rows to the water ways, it cost 270.00, thanks for getting me going. Bill Fleck

Re(1): 1655 front end

IP: 67.2.248.118 Posted on January 25, 2006 at 06:57:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear you had success. Larry


MORE HORSE POWER

IP: 12.168.122.170 Posted on January 10, 2006 at 02:30:21 PM by HARDEN PHIPPS LARRY,I'VE GOT A 88 THAT HAS HAD THE MOTOR REBUILT TO A SUPER 88. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET MORE HORSE POWER? ARE THERE SOME SIMPLE THINGS? WE ARE ANTIQUE TRACTOR PULLING WITH THIS UNIT.

Re(1): MORE HORSE POWER

IP: 67.2.248.163 Posted on January 10, 2006 at 07:13:19 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an M&W set-up that has 3 7/8 bore with dome pistons. With these, I would recommend switching to an 880 cylinder head so that you will have bigger valves. I'd also get the 1650 intake manifold and the 1650 carb. The over bore pistons are available from Korves Bros. www.korvesoliver.com Phone: 618-939-6681. I would recommend a TSX 880 or a TSX 807 carb from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. They also have an intake manifold, the part number is 721431. Larry


1650 - 1750

IP: 64.33.182.8 Posted on January 10, 2006 at 04:22:35 AM by JC(WI)

Hi Larry, I was wondering how much stuff is interchangable between 1650 and 1750 diesels. I have wide front from a 1750 going on 1650 and injection pump is shot on 1650 so 'borrowing pump from 1750. Starter on 1650 needs repairs too so the plan is to swap starter from doner tractor 1750. (I am trying to resurrect an old 1650 so who knows how much will be needed to get changed. Engine was torn apart on 1750 and I got wide front,tub, block and 2spd. Maybe I should have barterd for whole 1750 parts and all minus hyd. pump and looked for another hyd. pump and engine for it instead? and forget about 1650 with 35mph road gear?.) Thanks, Jerry

Re(1): 1650 - 1750

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on January 10, 2006 at 06:43:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not saying that the injection pump from the 1750 won't work, but it is not the same. Starter might work, the hydra-power unit has a different input shaft and bell housing. The hydraulic pump, itself, is the same in the 2 tractors. The steering parts are pretty much the same, such as hydra-motors, steering cylinders, etc. There is an abundance of used and new parts available for 1650's and 1750's. They are both very good tractors, in my opinion. Larry


770 industrial reverser

IP: 198.115.163.154 Posted on January 9, 2006 at 06:18:28 PM by brion McMullan

Larry, Once my torque converter ears broke a couple of years ago on my early oliver 770. I replaced with a new torque converter and conversion kit which had a plate that bolted between the flywheel and reverser. I had to shim between the reverser and flywheel housing because the new torque converter was .5" bigger. The tractor doesn't seem to develop enough pressure to run the reverser. As soon as the oil warms up I can't go anywhere. Does the conversion torque converter not work with old reverser? could it be my seals are gone in the reverser? It runs fine until it warms up and then the pressure drops right off. Thank you

Re(1): 770 industrial reverser

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on January 10, 2006 at 06:49:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I think there is a good chance that the clutch pack in the reverser might be slipping. The things you mention, are all possible. In the Oliver 770 Shop Manual there is a section devoted to the reverse-o-torque. This whole book is over $300. Perhaps, for a fee, the gals at the Museum would print out that section for you. Their email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


mod. 1865 dsl.

IP: 69.18.16.38 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 03:28:24 PM by Larry McIntire

would like know how many were produced. cannot find seriel no. in any publication. oliver built only in 1971. tractor is similar to m/m mod. g950. serial no. is 43600867. thanks.

Re(1): mod. 1865 dsl.

IP: 4.249.156.56 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 04:49:45 PM by larry from maryland

That looks like a MM serial number have you tried thier lists?

Re(2): mod. 1865 dsl.

IP: 67.2.248.68 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 09:35:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1865 was built by White 1969 - 1971 as a G950. It was built in 1971 also as an Oliver. Some of them were built to use LP gas, also. We don't know how many were built. The beginning serial number for the Oliver model was 43600416. This would make yours the 451st. one built. I don't know if the Museum at Charles City would be able to answer this question or not. You can check with them at email: fchs@fiai.net Larry


1900 clutch rebuild

IP: 68.47.4.66 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 01:33:36 PM by JDH

Should I rebuild my clutch or try to find new one? Is this a typical detroit clutch or is it oliver? Where would be a good place to find a new or reman. one? Thanks

Re(1): 1900 clutch rebuild

IP: 67.2.248.68 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 09:21:26 PM by Larry Harsin

It is an Oliver set-up because of the PTO coming into the flywheel. I would think you could rebuild it. If you want a new one, check with your AGCO dealer. Another place might be Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Either of these places might have a rebuilt one also. Larry


oliver 1850

IP: 209.221.240.193 Posted on January 4, 2006 at 11:34:02 AM by Ken Smous

Larry- I'm just starting to tear down a Oliver 1850 dsl for restoration and I like to make sure I'm correct about this tractor's year and style by the serial number/model number. Model number 285-2409 and serial number 168-293-427. I think I have a 1966 model, Row Crop, Wide front end and hydra power(high-low). Am I correct or did I read the number system wrong. Thanks Ken

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 216.114.209.234 Posted on January 4, 2006 at 08:09:23 PM by lyle

Ken, hows it going? looks like the 1850 is a 66 model let me know how you turn out,I just did one of these last year and it is a sweet machine thanks Lyle

Re(2): oliver 1850

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on January 4, 2006 at 09:21:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1850 is a 1966 model. Larry


oliver 88 standard rear axle

IP: 4.242.232.233 Posted on January 4, 2006 at 02:49:09 AM by Gary Veldhuizen

I was wondering what the shape of the rear axle where the hub mounts on to. Is it a splined shaft, tapered or is it smooth and tapered. I'm hoping to make a pair of rear hubs to mount stamped wheels on my tractor. so that I can get the tractor down in weight.

Re(1): oliver 88 standard rear axle

IP: 67.2.248.68 Posted on January 5, 2006 at 09:16:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The outer end is tapered with a key. The inner end is splined like the Row Crops. Larry


1650 steering noise

IP: 131.151.85.178 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 02:57:03 PM by Gary Abbott

Hi Larry, I'm looking at a 1650 gas wf that when you turn the steering wheel you can hear some chatter and see a hydraulic hose below the seat jumping in sync with the noise. The tractor has a loader and 3pt that work smooth and quiet. The tractor steers good and doesn't wander when driving. Any ideas on what might be causing this noise?

Re(1): 1650 steering noise

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 09:59:35 PM by Larry Harsin

That noise is not uncommon, that is the way they are - both the 1650 and the 1550. Larry


oliver 70 engine rebuild

IP: 216.153.172.7 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 12:12:21 PM by sean oliver

I'm having some trouble finding a sleeve kit for this engine i'm working on [block model #DS 202 ,6 cylinder ,5 gear]. wondered if you knew of a good source for available parts . I plan on using the old pistons .

Re(1): oliver 70 engine rebuild

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 09:57:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Korves Bros. www.korvesoliver.com or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry


Hydra power

IP: 216.46.208.194 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 07:59:55 AM by Randy

Is it OK to use hytran in the hydrapower two speed in my 1850 1550 and 1600 the same as I do in the White over/under,or should I keep using typeA auto Transmission fluid like it says to on the dipstick?

Re(1): Hydra power

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 09:51:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Hy-Tran will work o.k. ATF is what you really should use. Larry


oliver engine

IP: 209.83.14.216 Posted on January 2, 2006 at 01:05:58 PM by Brian

Larry Im looking at an engine for my 1855 oliver. The owner says the casting number is 221320. I was wondering if that is a 310 waukesha or what it is. Thank you for your time. Brian

Re(1): oliver engine

IP: 67.2.248.160 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 06:00:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is a 310 Waukesha. Larry

Re(2): oliver engine

IP: 216.46.208.194 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 07:55:34 AM by Randy

I asked a question in response to another one and nobody responded so I'll ask it straight up. Is it OK to use hytran in the two speed of my 1850 1550 and 1600 like I do in the over/ under in the Whites or should I keep using type A auto transmission fluid like it says to do on the dip stick.

Re(3): oliver engine

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on January 3, 2006 at 09:49:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Hy-Tran will work o.k. ATF is what you really should use. Larry


Super 88 points burning

IP: 71.34.175.122 Posted on January 1, 2006 at 02:14:05 PM by Ray

A week or so ago my Super 88 gas started running rough, and when I took it to a tractor repair shop that I trust very much, they found that the points were burnt. They replaced them, put in new spark plugs, and it ran like new. That was last Friday. The tractor ran perfectly all weekend until today, when it once again started missing. I pulled the dist. cap off, and it appears the points are burnt again. Any suggestions? The only change I made to the tractor before this began happening was I intsalled a new ignition button on the dash, but I can't imagine that would be the problem. The tractor has been converted to 12V. Thanks for any help you can offer! Ray

Re(1): Super 88 points burning

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on January 1, 2006 at 04:22:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd just install a regular automotive resistor, like you might have found on an older Chevy, on the wire that goes from the switch the ignition coil. That will probably cure it - see if it works.

If that doesn't do the trick, you could install a solid state ignition and do away with the points completely. I've seen this done, and it works quite well.

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