"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - January, 2011 Archives


310 oil leaks

IP: 75.192.21.186 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 08:32:23 PM by ...

I have a 310 motor out of an 1855 that is leaking out of the govenor seal and also the front seal. It looks like I will need the govenor seal and mounting gasket, timing cover gasket, front seal, and oil pan gasket. Are there any other gaskets or seals that I may need and is there a gasket set that I can order that would include all these seals and gaskets at a cheaper rate than buying the gaskets and seals individually? Thanks for your help!

Re(1): 310 oil leaks

IP: 75.104.161.183 Posted on January 31, 2011 at 06:14:49 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to get them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. There is no gasket set for that, you will have to purchase them individually from an AGCO Dealer or Tom. Larry


Dry oil filter

IP: 96.245.54.88 Posted on January 29, 2011 at 08:27:05 PM by Terry

Love your website and thanks in advance for any help you can provide. When i changed the engine oil on my father's Super 77 gas, oil did not spill out when i took off the filter and it did not appear to contain any old oil. He had not changed the oil for a few years. What could be wrong and what should i do?

Re(1): Dry oil filter

IP: 69.72.27.127 Posted on January 29, 2011 at 09:30:54 PM by Larry from MD

Those filters tend to drain out if they set for awhile, but the restrictor in the filter base can get blocked and no oil will flow into the filter. If you ran the engine before draining there should be some oil dripping out of a removed filter. If no oil i would think its blocked.The restrictor is under the tube sticking up into the filter.

Re(2): Dry oil filter

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 07:34:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I would put new oil in it and start the tractor and see what happens. If no oil comes up into the filter tube, try blowing some compressed air down through it and see if that helps. Larry

Re(3): Dry oil filter

IP: 96.245.54.88 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 05:07:23 PM by Terry

I ran the engine for a while to get it hot so it would drain properly. I will try the compressed air. If that doesn't work should i pull the oil filter base off the engine to get to the restrictor? Anything special to look out for? Thanks again.

Re(4): Dry oil filter

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 05:23:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Pull the base off and check the restrictor. Don't know of anything to watch out for. Larry

Re(5): Dry oil filter

IP: 69.72.27.124 Posted on January 31, 2011 at 11:56:21 AM by Larry from MD

The restrictor is under the pipe that sticks up,so you have to pull that out.One problem is that the pipes slip out and let the restrictor out too. So if the pipe is loose when going back add some lock tite.


1600 Radiator

IP: 24.117.7.8 Posted on January 29, 2011 at 06:07:57 PM by Dave

Larry- Do you know if a 1650D radiator (#163342AS) would fit my 1600D (s/n 131xxx)tractor? If so what would I need to do (if anything) special to make it fit? Thanks!

Re(1): 1600 Radiator

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 07:29:45 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 3 different radiators listed for the 1600 and the 1650. The differences being inlet and outlet size and the different fans used make the fan holes different sizes. Larry


1942 Oliver 70 Firing Order

IP: 121.223.133.178 Posted on January 28, 2011 at 07:36:37 PM by Dylan Brown

Hi There i am currently in the process of getting a 1942 Oliver 70 going, and have a problem, we cant find the 'Firing Order', will be much appreciated if you could help

Re(1): 1942 Oliver 70 Firing Order

IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on January 29, 2011 at 07:32:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Larry


Oliver 70 coolant foaming

IP: 216.51.160.168 Posted on January 27, 2011 at 08:39:53 PM by Gary Lensch

Hi Larrry, I contacted you last summer on this problem, but haven,t gotten back to it till now. I have been having a problem with the radiator on my Oliver 70 foaming badly for the last few years, and getting worse. almost as soon as I start it the radiator starts foaming out of the over flow tube. I pulled the head last winter and rebuilt it. the only thing I didn't do was pressure check. This made no improvement. That,s when I contacted you last summer. You sugested I have the radiator checked. I had it cleaned and was told it flowed ok, but that didn't help any either. I took the fan belt off and let it run till it got almost to the hot on the gauge. I took the cap off the radiator and there wasnt a bubble in sight. I am at a lose what to do next. Could it be sucking air through the seal in the water pump? It doesn't leak coolant. I had replaced it about 5 years ago. Thanks for any heip you can give me. Gary

Re(1): Oliver 70 coolant foaming

IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on January 28, 2011 at 07:28:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I have considered putting a thermostat in the hose, at the top of the radiator. I'm wondering if it has to do with the properties of the anti-freeze we are using these days. Have you tried it with just plain water? If water doesn't foam, it will tell you it is the anti-freeze. Then, possibly a non-foaming additive would be something to seek. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 coolant foaming

IP: 216.51.160.168 Posted on January 28, 2011 at 07:54:13 PM by Gary

I have thought about putting some sort of restriction in the top hose. I don't know if there is enough room to put a thermostat in the hose. The radiator is real close to the water out let. The water pump seems to be trying to push more coolant out than it can take in. When I was doing a flush before putting fresh anti-freeze, when I was running fresh water in the radiator with drains open, instead of water coming out the drain on the lower water inlet is sucked air in and blew the water out of the top of the radiator. I I had plain water in it a little while the summer before last and it foamed also. I have another water pump and radiator that I could try. Thanks for your help.

Re(3): Oliver 70 coolant foaming

IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on January 28, 2011 at 08:05:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I have considered cutting out a part in that neck so I could put a thermostat in there. I have thought that a thermostat could be set in the iron part of the neck and then put a hose over it. Larry


77 exhaust thread size

IP: 206.40.97.116 Posted on January 27, 2011 at 01:51:31 PM by Schim

What is the size where the exhaust pipe would thread into? What is the diameter?

Re(1): 77 exhaust thread size

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on January 30, 2011 at 07:26:35 AM by Larry Harsin

The inside measurement of the exhaust pipe is 2 inches. Larry


Oliver 77 belt pulley

IP: 24.210.48.235 Posted on January 25, 2011 at 06:31:48 PM by Ken

I am trying to get an Oliver 77 gas operational and I do not know much about it. It runs but has been sitting outside so long there is no paint left anywhere. There is a gearbox under the dash for the belt pulley and behind it is a pedal operated assembly with two arms coming out of it. I would like to know what type of lube these gearboxes take and where the level check point is? There is a pipe plug under the gas tank that I can look down into the belt drive but no lube can be seen. Thanks for the help, your website is awesome.

Re(1): Oliver 77 belt pulley

IP: 75.105.50.94 Posted on January 27, 2011 at 07:19:18 AM by Larry Harsin

You can put some lube where you take the pipe plug out, but the belt pulley gearbox gets lube from the transmission. The power lift also gets its lube from the transmission. The transmission and final drive has 2 compartments holding approx. 4.5 gal. of SAE 90. All of this is in an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry


oliver 1850

IP: 67.4.232.242 Posted on January 25, 2011 at 11:51:54 AM by jason

i have to go pick up an 1850 gas tractor and the battery is bad, i am trying to get the dimentions and the cca of the battery so I could get one before I go up to get it.

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 75.105.50.94 Posted on January 27, 2011 at 07:15:27 AM by Larry Harsin

The Group of the battery is 15M4A (SAE) 60 (AABM). It doesn't give the dimensions. The capacity of the battery is 70 Amp - hrs. When you go to get a battery, take your battery box and make sure it fits. Larry


77 88 rocker ratio

IP: 206.40.97.116 Posted on January 25, 2011 at 09:13:39 AM by Schim

I posted this on yesterdays tractor forum but no one answered me. What is the stock rocker ration on a 77 and 88? Thanks.

Re(1): 77 88 rocker ratio

IP: 75.105.50.94 Posted on January 27, 2011 at 07:09:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I have never seen that specification in any of my manuals. Larry


Super 88 rearend

IP: 99.197.114.239 Posted on January 23, 2011 at 10:38:50 AM by Schim

Will a front tub from a 51 77 bolt to a rear end of a Super 88?

Re(1): Super 88 rearend

IP: 208.103.155.20 Posted on January 23, 2011 at 03:30:36 PM by Larry from MD

Yes.

Re(2): Super 88 rearend

IP: 75.105.54.183 Posted on January 23, 2011 at 06:29:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done this before. It might. Larry


1650 gas

IP: 165.139.19.60 Posted on January 22, 2011 at 09:27:18 AM by Stanley E

I need to know what is the right engine oil and spark plugs to use on my 1650 gas that I use about 40 hours a year for light loader work or plowing a small garden this tractor idles alot because of the climbing on and off of tractor how often should I change the oil.

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 75.104.25.123 Posted on January 22, 2011 at 12:44:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The spark plug is Champion N11Y and the oil 10-30 or 15-40. For the amount of work this tractor does, changing it once a year should be often enough. Larry


1650 p.t.o leaks

IP: 205.185.133.187 Posted on January 21, 2011 at 03:26:30 PM by Terry Rasmussen

I had not used my p.t.o for a long time I changed all the fluids and filters and put a snow blade on with a pump on the p.t.o I now see it drips even when not in use ?

Re(1): 1650 p.t.o leaks

IP: 208.103.155.33 Posted on January 22, 2011 at 07:38:16 AM by Larry from MD

If the bearing gets loose it can leak right through the bearing.

Re(2): 1650 p.t.o leaks IP: 75.105.54.183 Posted on January 23, 2011 at 06:32:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Otherwise, put an O ring in the housing where the bearing slips in - Its about a 3" O ring. It might stop the leak. If it doesn't, you will have to replace the bearing. Larry


1600 steering

IP: 208.103.155.229 Posted on January 21, 2011 at 11:58:57 AM by Larry from MD

I have replaced the quadring in my 1600 twice and it still seems to leak.Do i need to switch one from another tractor or is there a fix.

Re(1): 1600 steering

IP: 75.104.25.123 Posted on January 22, 2011 at 12:50:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Maybe the O ring on top of the sector (on that plug) is leaking, and makes it look like it is coming from somewhere else. Larry


No new posts!

IP: 69.26.9.162 Posted on January 20, 2011 at 06:59:54 PM by Bill Wagner

I can't believe it has been days and no one has posted anything new. I am missing the new questions. So I thought I would write to say that my Oliver 1650 is doing great work on a 3 point mounted 7 foot snow blower this winter. We have lost of snow here in ND and yesterday again I spent about 3 hours clearing roads. The 1650 diesel starts and runs well even in the bitter cold we have been having. Of course I have an engine heater to warm things up. I also have a canvas cab with wind shield that keeps me comfortable. It is actually a lot of fun to watch the snow fly! Oliver truly is "The finest in farm equipment!"

Re(1): No new posts!

IP: 75.104.25.123 Posted on January 22, 2011 at 12:57:43 PM by Larry Harsin

We are happy to hear that you are enjoying your 1650. Olivers ARE great to work with. We, too, miss the questions, but figure the Oliver owners are either finding what they need to know in the Archives, or have sent me an email or called me. We enjoy all phases of this wonderful hobby and the people involved in it. Thanks for posting! Larry and Sandy


oliver1550 dsl

IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on January 15, 2011 at 11:00:20 PM by gary

what is the differance between piston rings for an oliver 1550 diesel and an oliver 1600 gas. both engines have 3 5/8 bore thanks for any information

Re(1): Oliver 1550 dsl

IP: 75.104.169.52 Posted on January 15, 2011 at 11:36:07 PM by Larry Harsin

They are different size. But if you have them both at a 3 5/8" bore, there is a possibility that they might change, but I doubt it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1550 dsl

IP: 208.103.155.11 Posted on January 16, 2011 at 07:51:56 AM by Larry from MD

In the 1550 you allmost have to measure all the rings to make sure you get the right ones.I have seen rings of differant thickness in the same engine.Someone put 2 new sleeves and pistons in and left the old ones in the other holes.Not counting the oil rings some have the rest the same and some have one ring thicker.

Re(3): Oliver 1550 dsl

IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on January 16, 2011 at 05:18:10 PM by gary

perhaps i can give more details. when looking at the Hastings piston ring catalog they give the listings for all of the oliver engines. the catalogs list the bore of the engine, the number of compression rings and oil rings along with the thicknesses of the rings. if both listings for oliver 1550 dsl and 1600 specifiy the same thicknesses of rings and the bore is the same. will these rings interchange? the only difference i can tell is the part number and price. thank you for all of your information. you have been most helpful.

Re(4): Oliver 1550 dsl

IP: 75.104.169.238 Posted on January 17, 2011 at 07:21:40 AM by Larry Harsin

If they all call for the same, there is a fair chance they might work. Larry


Oliver 70 clutch

IP: 98.226.192.155 Posted on January 11, 2011 at 07:19:13 PM by John

Hello Larry, I have been working on my 70 and it appears the clutch facing is stuck to the flywheel. Apparently from sitting for years. Any way of breaking it loose without taking the clutch assy out? Thanks, John

Re(1): Oliver 70 clutch

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on January 11, 2011 at 07:58:40 PM by Dale H

Take the tin plate off the clutch housing,have someone hold the clutch pedal in,and take something like a slim-jim and slide it down between the flywheel and clutch plate. Turn the motor over a little at a time and do several places.

Re(2): oliver 70 clutch

IP: 75.104.161.170 Posted on January 12, 2011 at 06:36:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Dale has a good answer. If it doesn't work, you'll have to disassemble it. Larry

Re(3): oliver 70 clutch

IP: 98.226.192.155 Posted on January 12, 2011 at 03:36:03 PM by John

It broke loose all by itself today!!


Oliver 99

IP: 69.19.14.21 Posted on January 10, 2011 at 02:49:56 PM by Cory

I am restoring an oliver 99 and cant find any wiring for it and also can not find a battery box. Do you know where i can find these things?

Re(1): Oliver 99 IP: 75.104.161.170 Posted on January 12, 2011 at 06:32:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Check with Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


year-a-round cab

IP: 99.183.201.23 Posted on January 9, 2011 at 07:14:20 PM by wd blevins

Does anyone have any idea where I can find replacement parts of a year around cab that was on an 1855 that I'm fitting on my 1800B. From what I can gather year around is no longer in business. I'm fine with used parts if I can find them.

Re(1): year-a-round cab

IP: 75.104.169.247 Posted on January 10, 2011 at 06:26:35 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to call salvage yards or implement dealers to see if they have old cabs sitting around somewhere. Here are some you can check with. Worthington Tractor Parts 800-426-6960, Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543, Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry


Gear oil

IP: 97.112.118.163 Posted on January 9, 2011 at 04:52:30 PM by scott

can I use synthetic oil in the transmission and rear end or just stay with the reg 80/90

Re(1): Gear oil

IP: 75.104.169.247 Posted on January 9, 2011 at 06:59:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use 80/90. It does real good and isn't as expensive as synthetic oil. Larry


880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 96.2.47.144 Posted on January 6, 2011 at 10:19:45 PM by Dave Wicks

I have an 880 with a noisey hydraulic pump. The pump will not hold hydraulic fluid as it leaks into the transmission. It started making a grinding noise. I don't use the pump but I need the PTO. My question is can I somehow remove the hydraulic pump and still use the tractor with PTO for the loader? I am almost certain the pump is producing the grinding noise. I am concerned that the grinding noise will damage the transmission or PTO shaft. Thanks Dave

Re(1): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 75.104.168.116 Posted on January 7, 2011 at 06:25:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The pump can be removed. There should be a hanger bearing installed for the PTO shaft. I have these. Let me know if you need one. Email: harsinoliver@ilechsi.com Larry

Re(2): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 96.2.47.144 Posted on January 16, 2011 at 09:33:39 AM by Dave

Thanks to your help I was able to remove the hydraulic pump and replace it with a hanger bearing part # KS 1562. I had to do a little grinding on the cover to get it to fit. My 880 has a straight transmission (no torq or reverse-o-matic) seems to have some sort of pressurized lube system on the transmission with an external oil filter. What can you tell me about this? I can't find anything about this in my shop or owners manual. It has a screw on remote oil filter that is bolted on the dash. How do I check if it is working? Where do I find the part number for a new filter. Thanks Dave

Re(4): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 75.104.169.238 Posted on January 17, 2011 at 10:52:45 PM by Larry Harsin

That is an improvement package that was put on that tractor. The idea being to oil the cluster on the input shaft. To check if it is oiling, unscrew the filter and see if there is oil passing through there when the tractor is running. I don't have the filter number in the house tonight, but it takes the same number of transmission lube filter that you use on a 1750 or an 1850. Larry


1850 gas - Clutch

IP: 65.165.19.162 Posted on January 3, 2011 at 08:37:48 PM by Dennis

I have an 1850 Gas. The clutch pedal pushes in hard. Sometimes after it is warmed up,when I try to shift it,the clutch does not seem to release. Does thim mean that the clutch will need replacing. I don't see anywhere to grease the clutch.

Re(1): 1850 gas - Clutch

IP: 75.104.168.222 Posted on January 4, 2011 at 08:38:49 PM by Larry Harsin

If your 1850 has a hydra power, you are going to have to pull the engine with the hydra power attached. If it doesn't have hydra power, you can service the clutch without removing the engine. You will have to take the clutch apart one way or the other, to see what is wrong. Larry


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