77 diesel

IP: 198.228.200.18 Posted on January 31, 2013 at 02:22:42 PM by steve c.

Hi Larry I'm in the process of purchasing a 77 diesel and for whatever reason the serial number plate is missing is there any way to find out the year and other information by using the casting numbers? Thanks

Re(1): 77 diesel

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on February 4, 2013 at 07:38:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There is a casting date on the bottom of the transmission housing and there is usually a casting date on the engine block. Also, there is a date that the engine was built, on the top of the cylinder head. It is usually stamped in the area where the thermostat bolts on. Larry

1800C

IP: 204.9.159.194 Posted on January 29, 2013 at 12:34:54 PM by Mike Herms

I am looking at purchasing a 1800 C diesel row crop tractor and was looking to see what items I should be looking for and how good are these tractors?

Re(1): 1800C

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 30, 2013 at 07:27:26 AM by Larry Harsin

The mechanical condition, how complete it is, condition of tires and how well it operates. Same as for all tractors. The 1800C was a very good tractor. But, remember they were built in 1963, so finding one that is still good is hard sometimes. Larry

Clutch adjustment on Oliver 550

IP: 70.193.194.209 Posted on January 28, 2013 at 09:11:40 PM by Margaret Wilcher

I have lost the book for my Oliver 550 and need to adjust the clutch. Can you give me some advice.

Re(1): Clutch adjustment on Oliver 550

IP: 97.73.64.148 Posted on January 29, 2013 at 11:43:53 AM by larry from maryland

With the clutch bolted up to the flywheel the fingers need to be level with the inside edge of the clutch cover.It is hard to measure correctly from the flywheel the way the books tell you.This is larry from md. not larry H.

Re(2): Clutch adjustment on Oliver 550

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on January 30, 2013 at 07:25:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Adjust it so that it has about 2 inches of free travel on the pedal. You can purchase a new Operator's Manual for you tractor by calling the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. They will want your serial number for your tractor. Larry

clayon.gilly.gilstrap@gmail.com

IP: 206.246.30.207 Posted on January 28, 2013 at 05:24:12 PM by Clayton

I am looking for a 1750 oliver motor block. any place i can find them??

Re(1): clayon.gilly.gilstrap@gmail.com

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 30, 2013 at 07:23:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry

water pump seals

IP: 216.176.88.1 Posted on January 26, 2013 at 03:07:10 PM by Steve Coventry

Can you buy just the seals for the water pump on a 1650 oliver gas. I messed one up. thanks Steve

Re(1): water pump seals

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on January 30, 2013 at 07:22:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can buy them separate. Get them from your AGCO Dealer. Larry

770 hydraulics

IP: 208.126.84.55 Posted on January 26, 2013 at 01:32:44 PM by Jim

I started my '58 770 diesel the other day for the first time since I plowed with it back in October. It was quite cold that day so I pull in the block heater to pre-warm the engine. It started right up but almost imediately I had hydraulic oil coming out from under the fill cap on the hydraulic unit. What are the possible causes for this and how can I correct it. Thanks!

Re(1): 770 hydraulics

IP: 97.73.64.147 Posted on January 26, 2013 at 09:36:49 PM by larry from maryland

One cause is low fluid level.

Re(2): 770 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 30, 2013 at 07:20:37 AM by Larry Harsin

It was probably the cold weather and it may have been a bit over-full. Larry

White 2-105 Transmission hot

IP: 173.215.14.52 Posted on January 23, 2013 at 03:17:38 PM by Paul Ritscher

The transmission gets hot enough that you can't keep your hand on it when traveling down the road with no load on the tractor. Sometimes the transmission light will come on. I have changed the 80w90 and filter twice [was not over filled from hydraulic oil] and it still does it. The gear lube looked baked. What do you think?

Re(1): White 2-105 Transmission hot

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on January 24, 2013 at 08:04:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not that well versed on the 105. Call O'Brien County Impl and talk to the Shop Foreman, Rick. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver wide fronts

IP: 208.69.162.16 Posted on January 22, 2013 at 11:52:34 PM by Ross

I have a 1650 with a Schwartz wide front that needs a lot of work, so I am wanting to replace it with an Oliver factory wide front. My question is: which ones will fit? will ones off a larger size (17xx, 18xx, 19xx) fit? or only ones off of the smaller 15xx/16xx size? I want to use it with a loader so my first choice would be one off of like an 1855 because they turn so short...will this work?

Re(1): Oliver wide fronts

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 23, 2013 at 07:15:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Pretty much all of those will fit. The one off of an 1855 will certainly work. Larry

1855 diesel

IP: 74.32.251.187 Posted on January 18, 2013 at 11:30:39 PM by Randy

Hi our local White dealer has been working on our oliver 1855 since september 2012, the problem is there is a howling noise in the hydraulic system and he cant figure out where it is coming from . The hydraulic system has every new part you could think of. it only does it when you use the hydraulic remotes. Do you have any idea what it is?

Re(1): 1855 diesel

IP: 97.73.64.151 Posted on January 19, 2013 at 07:12:51 AM by larry from maryland

This is often caused by a small air leak.They suck so much that if there is a small leak at the couplers or cylinder that it gets into the system and makes noise.A large leak will cause the pump to destroke.

Re(2): 1855 diesel

IP: 74.32.251.187 Posted on January 19, 2013 at 11:43:32 PM by Randy

He has replaced the remotes, and all of the hoses. when he first started on it there were air bubbles in the reservoir. that has since been resolved. now we are just trying to figure out where the noise is coming from??? thanks

Re(3): 1855 diesel

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 19, 2013 at 08:09:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I really don't have a different idea. Larry

Re(4): 1855 diesel

IP: 209.50.18.201 Posted on January 21, 2013 at 02:28:29 PM by B A Star

Like Larry said you have air getting into the system. There is a small line that is plumbed into the top of the filter housing and goes to the cooler pump. From the pump ail flows to the cooler in front of the radiator. There is a return line that comes off the top of the cooler and goes back into the reseviour. The cooler to return line has a rubber hose that joines the two. Take the hood off and rubber hose off and replace it with a clear plastic hose. You can now observe the oil flow going back to the resevoir for air bubbles. GEt the system up to operating temp. 110 degrees to lower the viscosity of the fluid (so that you can't hold your hand on the filter). The line on the top of the filter huosing draws oil for the cooler circuit and the idea is to take any air that gets into the filter though the cooler pump back to the resevoir. It's probably OK until there is a demand put on the system. The air has to get into the system on the suction side, resevoir to filter, to pump inlet. Have you looked at the bottom of the filter? A lot of them had the filter can bolt overtightened and caved in the bottom, now it won't seal. You only have one gasket in the filter head and not a bunch stacked up. Another place to look is the cooler pump. It has a bushing to support the drive shaft. Should the drive belt been over tightened the bushing wears enough that air can go back aganst the oil flow getting air into the filter and into the pump. The operators manual states to run the belt loose and should not be overtightened. It don't take much power to run the pump as it is just moving fluid through the cooler. You or your guy needs to keep looking and servicing the inlet side until the little stream of bubbles disappear in the clear plastic hose out of the cooler.

Oliver 1855 pto

IP: 70.199.106.188 Posted on January 18, 2013 at 10:54:19 AM by jerry shannon

How can I tell if my 1855 has a 540 or 1000 rpm pto? My tractor is an 1974. Can you tell by looking? Also was the 6000# 3 point hitch a special order item? how can I tell if I have one?

Re(1): Oliver 1855 pto

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 19, 2013 at 08:08:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Nearly all of the 1855's had a dual-speed PTO, so that you could shift from one to the other. This is all explained in your Operator's Manual. You can get a Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. The 6000 lb. hitch has external lift cylinders and it is a category 3, where the standard is the category 2 without external lift cylinders. If you wanted the category 3, you had to order it when the tractor was built. Larry

1650 DEISEL Injection Pump Timing

IP: 75.108.86.227 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 04:04:59 PM by KIM

I installed a rebuilt injection pump for my 1967 - 1650. I lined all up to TDC and got the tractor to run but it is puffing white smoke and is roughy missing/sputters ext.. . I am in need of some advice on how to properly set the injection pump timing as i believe this is the problem.

Re(2): 1650 DEISEL Injection Pump Timing

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 17, 2013 at 07:40:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Advance the pump timing about 3 degrees and see if that helps. If it doesn't, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(3): 1650 DEISEL Injection Pump Timing

IP: 75.108.86.227 Posted on January 20, 2013 at 09:05:09 PM by Kim

Advanced the Pump timing and all is working correctly, thank you so much for all your help and sharing your knowledge, it is greatly appreciated.

Oliver 550 sputtering when warm

IP: 69.63.3.138 Posted on January 13, 2013 at 08:41:44 PM by Scott

I have a 1964 Oliver 550. It runs fine cold, but after running a few minutes it starts to miss and sputter. If I turn it off for a couple of minutes and restart it, it runs ok again for a few more minutes then starts to miss again. I put in a new coil, condenser, and filed the points. I also drained the gas and put in fresh. Any ideas what could be wrong?.

Re(1): Oliver 550 sputtering when warm

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:58:59 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be as simple as having a bad coil wire, or a spark plug wire. It could be a bad connection in the ignition switch or the wiring that goes to the coil. For example when it runs a few minutes and get warm, then the current won't go through the wire like it should. Simply run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, so that you can bypass the switch and the primary wiring and see if that helps. If it makes a difference, it will help you diagnose your problem. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 sputtering when warm

IP: 69.63.3.138 Posted on January 21, 2013 at 08:37:06 PM by Scott

I connected a wire between the battery and the coil, but did not notice any difference. I fixed the temp gage and found that it was running above the normal range. Then I checked the temp of the coolant at the radiator cap and it was about 130 degrees. I think I need to replace the thermostat. I saw a couple on line, the temperatures were 160 and 180 degrees. Which is the temp is correct, and where is the best place to buy one? I also put a timing light on the engine and noticed that the distributor advance is not working. I need to dig into that to see what is wrong.

1650

IP: 74.206.44.31 Posted on January 12, 2013 at 11:05:39 PM by dk

I have a 1650 gaser that runs fine but im noticed the oil smells like gas really bad and oil level seems to be rising any idea what to check thanks

Re(1): 1650

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:52:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the carb isn't running over. Make sure it is not missing on a cylinder or 2, causing it to have unburned fuel in the cylinders. Also, remove the air intake from the carb to check the choke butterfly to see if it is working properly. Larry

550 Clutch Safety switch

IP: 184.74.58.106 Posted on January 11, 2013 at 07:49:46 AM by Chris Haggerty

I have a 62 550 that has I assume a clutch safety switch under the instrument cowling . I was wondering if anyone could take a picture of the linkage that activates the switch so I can make a new set for my tractor. I can't find anything in my manuals that refer to this switch.

Re(1): 550 Clutch Safety switch

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:49:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact the Floyd County Museum in Charles City. They can send you a picture of it out of the Parts Manual. 641-228-1099. Larry

hydraulic pump

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on January 10, 2013 at 11:10:57 AM by chris

larry is there supposed to be a gasket between the hydraulic pump and the transmission plate on my 77

Re(1): hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:47:04 AM by Larry Harsin

On the real early ones, there was. I don't think you can get them anymore. Try using silicone. Larry

Rare super 88D

IP: 166.205.55.43 Posted on January 9, 2013 at 08:29:06 PM by Jesse hayes

What were some of the rare super 88 diesels? My pap bought this 1957 Oliver super 88 new in Knoxville tn at Justus and company in January of 1957 and it came from the factory with green wheels and it never was painted but a lot of archives said their was no 1957s with green whelels only 1955 and 1956 could this be a rare on it has the breather under the hood as orginal and the hood has never been touched or cut it has factory 3 point on it to I would know bcuz it's been on my property since 1957 would u consider it rare it still has the old hour meter on side

Re(1): Rare super 88D

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:45:29 AM by Larry Harsin

My first thought would be that it is a 1956 tractor that was carried over from 1955, when your Father bought it. I wouldn't consider it to be rare at all. Larry

whiney trans

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on January 9, 2013 at 09:50:51 AM by chris

Do you think if i tighten up those bearings the transmission will stop whining on my 77, it whines in road gear and is louder than the engine

Re(1): whiney trans

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on January 9, 2013 at 01:09:08 PM by chris

larry i took all the shims out and theres still a couple millimeters play but its tighter than it was, the tractor hauled silage wagons for most its life, and 20 years ago my dad brought it home. Theres always been a whining coming from the tranny, i drained the water and oil flushed it with diesel and put 85w 90 in it, it still whines, what can i do?

Re(2): whiney trans

IP: 76.208.15.108 Posted on January 12, 2013 at 08:18:11 AM by 90%ret'd

Pretty normal on a spur gear transmission, espicially with a realitivly quiet 6 cyl. engine. Olivers, Massy Harris super 101, 44,six etc.

Re(3): whiney trans

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on January 15, 2013 at 09:42:35 AM by Larry Harsin

They were that way. One thing you could try is heavier transmission lube. Use 85-140. Sorry to be slow in answering, but our server has been down. Larry

S-88D question

IP: 166.205.68.21 Posted on January 8, 2013 at 06:56:09 PM by Jesse Hayes

I've got a 1957 super 88 diesel with a new rebuild diesel engine and new rebuilt side Bosch pump and we have had it done and painted about 4 years and runs well but yesterday I was driving it through the yard and it was doing fine and all of the sudden it started shooting out white with light blue smoke and popping bad like a dang 2cyl John Deere what could be the problem? The valvs under the covor look great and springs and rocker arms but it was popping bad when I put it in 6th gear going down the road so I just brought her on ho

Re(1): S-88D question

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on January 9, 2013 at 08:07:21 AM by Larry Harsin

My first guess is that there is an exhaust valve that is sticking open. It may have jumped a push-rod out of it's socket, also. I would shoot WD-40 onto it's valve stems while it is running. I would also change the engine oil, if it hasn't been changed recently. Then, the engine will need to be put on a load and made to work for awhile. Larry

hydraulic pump

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on January 7, 2013 at 04:19:13 PM by chris

I tried to use a high pressure hydraulic cylinder with my 77's hydraulic system, the sump is now empty, did i do damage or did the relief valve empty the oil into the transmission. you just replaced those seals for me last winter, and im scared i might have blown them

Re(1): hydraulic pump

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on January 8, 2013 at 08:35:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. You will have to analyze the situation and go from there. Larry

Countershaft bearings

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on January 7, 2013 at 04:14:14 PM by chris

I would like to know how to get rid of the play in my oliver 77's transmission, when you rebuilt my hydraulic pump last year i had it apart and saw excessive play in the countershaft. how do i tighten this up? does it have to come all apart again?

Re(1): countershaft bearings

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 8, 2013 at 08:32:03 AM by Larry Harsin

There are shims on the front of the transmission housing, under the cap on the front of the input shaft. After you remove shims, you should still have a little play in the bearings. Don't set it up too tight. Larry

770 gemmer power steering

IP: 70.199.96.209 Posted on January 7, 2013 at 01:36:53 PM by Robert Rimpa

I was wondering if you could tell me if anyone has a rebuild kit for this unit?

Re(1): 770 gemmer power steering

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 8, 2013 at 08:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Maibach has those. 800-808-9934. Larry

Oil viscosity?

IP: 184.151.63.241 Posted on January 3, 2013 at 02:34:26 AM by Matt

I have been handed down a white 1370 from what I understand is very similar to a oliver 1365. Could someone please tell me the proper engine oil to use?

Re(1): Oil viscosity?

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on January 3, 2013 at 07:35:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use 15-40 in it. Larry

Re(2): Oil viscosity?

IP: 74.12.249.48 Posted on January 3, 2013 at 03:20:47 PM by Matt

Thank you very much. I'm so happy I found this site. I had no idea the following of these tractors. Would it be ok to use that weight during the cold canadian winter months?

Re(3): Oil viscosity?

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on January 5, 2013 at 08:12:41 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are working in below 0* conditions, 5 w 30 or 10 w 30 might be better options. Larry

Re(5): Oil viscosity?

IP: 184.151.63.185 Posted on January 6, 2013 at 10:34:28 AM by Matt

I am in southern ontario , but we have been seeing sub 0 to -10 Celsius on the regular. Thank you again for your help. It's much appreciated.

PTO shield

IP: 70.194.7.54 Posted on January 2, 2013 at 08:50:38 AM by jerry shannon

Hi Larry. I have ordered a complet set of manuels for my 1855 but have not come in yet. Till then can you answer this for me please? My 1855 does not have the PTO Shield that covers the shaft. I had a friend give me a Oliver PTO shield that I want to put on. I see that there are 4 bolts that look to hold a cover plate around the pto shaft. If I take out those bolts to put the shield on, will I lose any hydro oil? Is it safe to take the bolts off, put the shield on and put the bolts back on without causing any issues. I know the book will show me this but I do not have mine yet.

Re(1): PTO shield

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on January 2, 2013 at 09:05:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is safe to remove those bolts, put the shield on and then put them back in. Larry

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