770 Distributor

IP: 76.179.221.167 Posted on January 29, 2014 at 10:13:14 PM by Nick

I have a 1959 Oliver 770 that's having some distributor problems. The tractor runs 3 to 4 hours a day everyday on the feed wagon. About 2 weeks ago the tractor started back firing and running poorly. We checked the points and they were closed up too much. After adjusting them the tractor ran fine for a couple days but then started having trouble again. We had a new set of points and tried putting them in, again it worked for a few days before closing up. We're guessing that the threads are worn in the breaker plate or that the bushings are worn in the housing. In either case the trouble is finding parts. Neither the distributor or breaker plate are available through agco. I also looked into an electronic distributor through Pertronix but they don't list one for the Delco part number on the current distributor. So far the only option I've found is a rebuilt one through All States Ag Parts. The Delco # is 1112587 and the Oliver # is 101776AS. Any other ideas on why the points might be closing up or where to find any new distributors to fix the tractor would be much appreciated.

Re(1): 770 Distributor

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 30, 2014 at 08:11:09 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to figure that out. I have a used distributor with a breaker plate, if you want it. Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

Purchasing wire harness

IP: 75.149.112.81 Posted on January 28, 2014 at 02:28:26 PM by Donati

Has anyone ever purchased a wire harness directly from a manufacturer? Or from this website http://whma.org/training-materials/purchase-materials-online/ How was your experience?

Re(1): Purchasing wire harness

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 30, 2014 at 08:08:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure, but I don't think you can get them from AGCO anymore. Korves Oliver has them. Quality is good. 618-939-6681. Larry

Steering arm replace 1650

IP: 205.185.133.187 Posted on January 28, 2014 at 01:04:54 PM by Terry Rasmussen

can I replace the steering arm on my 1650 from the bottom or do I have to pull the shaft from the top? Its Oliver not shwartz wide frt. Re(1): Steering arm replace 1650

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 30, 2014 at 08:06:18 AM by Larry Harsin

It can be replaced from the bottom without removing the Pitman shaft. The bolster will have to be let down so you can get the shaft out so you can remove the Pitman arm. Larry

carbuerator

IP: 166.216.226.74 Posted on January 21, 2014 at 04:37:14 PM by jeff manion

I have a 1966 oliver tractor 770..the carburator kepps frosting up and will quit runnin..not sure what is causing this ??

Re(1): carbuerator

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:31:30 AM by Larry Harsin

A lot of the frosting is the atmospheric conditions. Make sure your engine has a good thermostat so that it warms up properly. This typically happens when the air temp is around freezing point. Larry

Re(2): carbuerator

IP: 68.21.87.4 Posted on January 30, 2014 at 09:42:44 AM by Roy Wrightsman

What luck have you all had using ISO-Heet to help this problem? I've seen before that it helps. I've got a 770 that frosts but doesn't affect the running. I also have a 1650 that frosts and does affect the running. I put some in my 1650 this winter, but haven't been running it the last few weeks to say for sure that it helps... Just wondering if anyone has had any luck with this?

Re(3): carbuerator

IP: 166.216.194.74 Posted on January 30, 2014 at 06:42:41 PM by jeff manion

I have tried the iso alcohol . hasnt helped my problem..my carb will frost with any temps above or below frezzin..its only when temp is below frezzin that it affects how it runs..

Re(4): carbuerator

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 31, 2014 at 08:31:48 AM by Larry Harsin

It is just the nature of the beast! I have some that do that too. Larry

80/90 gear lube

IP: 70.194.7.86 Posted on January 21, 2014 at 12:34:43 PM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Love your page. Great work. I am getting to replace the filter and gear lube in the transmission and final drive. As it takes 44 qrts, if I get the oil from an Agco dealer it is going to cost $250.00 in oil. I was told Wal-Mart sells 80/90 GL5 for half that. You thoughts on brand quality would help me save some money provided I am not taking any risk on the use of an off brand oil.

Re(1): 80/90 gear lube

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:29:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Wal-Mart is the place to get it. If it is GL5, get it at Wal-Mart. Larry

Re(2): 80/90 gear lube

IP: 70.194.2.111 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:37:55 AM by Jerry Shannon

Thank you very much Larry. FYI. I put on the reduction gear starter you and I discussed last year. It is -5 here in MIchigan and I have a back blade on the 1855. Went out, hit the glow plug for a minute and the old girl spun like a son of a gun and fired right up. Huge difference. FYI.

Re(3): 80/90 gear lube

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 28, 2014 at 08:21:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Great!! Larry

Oliver 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 68.21.87.4 Posted on January 20, 2014 at 10:37:05 AM by Roy Wrightsman

I've got a 1650 that I'm working on, hydralectric system. When hooking two double acting cylinders to it, the left side cylinder will move slightly when the lever for the right side one is moved. When moving the left lever, only the left cylinder will move. What is likely the problem here? I do know that oil flow passes from one valve to the other, but is it a spring, o-ring, flow divider valve, something else?

Re(1): Oliver 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:28:09 AM by Larry Harsin

That's the nature of the beast. There isn't any problem. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 68.21.87.4 Posted on January 29, 2014 at 09:27:15 AM by Roy Wrightsman

If this is the nature of the beast, why doesn't my 1550 do the same thing? It doesn't seem to me that this would be "normal." It isn't a huge deal, just thinking that something must be slightly wrong?

Re(3): Oliver 1650 Hydraulics IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 1, 2014 at 07:59:29 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to figure it out for yourself. If the tractor was here, I MIGHT be able to, but it is hard to diagnose on the computer without seeing the tractor. Larry

Oil pressure gauge line

IP: 69.249.129.251 Posted on January 19, 2014 at 03:27:42 PM by Mike Renner

I am in the process of replacing the oil pressure gauge line on my 1949 gasoline Oliver Row Crop 88. I cannot remove the brass fitting from the engine block. I am afraid I am going to shear it off. If I were to heat the area with a propane torch around the fitting on that area of the engine block, do you think I would do any damage to any seals in that area of the engine? I'm not sure if there are any or not. Thank you for your time and help, Mike Renner

Re(1): Oil pressure gauge line

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:26:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think a propane torch will hurt anything. Larry

Oliver 88 row crop gas

IP: 66.87.74.196 Posted on January 16, 2014 at 03:15:54 PM by wade siewert

I have a oliver 88 that has a wakashawa gas engine. It is hurt realy bad. I'm wondering if the bell housing bolt pattern is the same as a small block Chevy bolt pattern?

Re(1): Oliver 88 row crop gas

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 25, 2014 at 09:38:19 AM by Larry Harsin

No, it isn't. I have 88 bell housings. Call me if I can help you. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 67.140.179.179 Posted on January 15, 2014 at 09:40:47 PM by greg alley

My father recently purchased a oliver 77 to go along with his super 88 diesel can you identify the year of manufacture by the serial number 343222c77d thank you

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 16, 2014 at 08:06:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 77 was built in 1951. Larry

Super 88 starting

IP: 208.126.157.115 Posted on January 11, 2014 at 08:36:33 PM by Zach

I have a super 88 converted to 12 volt that will not turn over. It clicks and makes about half a revolution then stops. After a few tries the battery is nearly dead. I have not started it in about four weeks, but it ran fine last time I used it. I have plugged in the coolant heater, a heated dip stick for the oil, and a block heater on the hydraulic reservoir for nearly a day and it made no difference. Today was in the 30's, so I would think all the electricity I was using could overcome the cold. The battery is brand new with 850 CCA (wrecked the one that was in it), and the starter was rebuilt last spring. The only thing that really changed since I last used it was the temperature but I have always used this tractor in the winter to plow snow without any problems. I am out of guesses and sure hope you have some ideas. Thank you very much.

Re(1): Super 88 starting

IP: 70.41.32.58 Posted on January 12, 2014 at 07:07:06 AM by dve

Sounds like a bad ground strap or dirty terminal ends tome. 88s had a bad idea for a ground strap connection to the sheet metal instead of to the frame. Check it out. Re(2): Super 88 starting

IP: 208.126.157.115 Posted on January 12, 2014 at 08:19:41 PM by Zach Buchiet

I went out today to check out the grounding. It was 42 degrees outside so I tried to start the tractor first. It fired right up with not so much as a hiccup. Now I am wondering if I have water somewhere that it should be that is freezing and locking everything up. I think I may start changing fluids to see if I find any water. Is there anyway something could be freezing hard enough to lock up the engine? Thank you for the help.

Re(3): Super 88 starting

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 14, 2014 at 08:01:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think that the water freezing is doing it. You will just have to keep checking things out. Larry

Re(4): Super 88 starting

IP: 67.140.179.179 Posted on January 15, 2014 at 09:48:17 PM by greg alley

Is your tractor diesel if it is they were already 12v using 12 6volt batteries in series if you put one 12 volt battery in it you need a lot more cold cranking amps than 850 to start cold diesel engine in 30 deg weather

'41 Oliver 70-newbie questions

IP: 184.75.221.50 Posted on January 9, 2014 at 03:21:09 AM by Dean Malkowski

Hello- Bought this last month mainly to power a woodsplitter [PTO pump]. Rear "tires" are actually the rims with ~ 4ga sheet steel wrapped around and tackwelded on the sides-the tread rubber was cut off the casings and thru-bolted onto the steel sheets. New to me but it works so far.

Questions:

1. I see listed on eBay [by a boneyard operator] a "Oliver 70 rowcrop Tractor oliver power lift unit" . Looks to my newbie eye as if it replaces the cover plate the toolbox sits on. I have found no reference to such a unit so far. What does it do, is it a good thing to have-or is the listing wrong?

2. Found conflicting info as to the shift pattern-one says it's a "double H" with Reverse located all the way down and right, another shows a double H with TWO reverse gears, located up and left in both the H patterns...which [if either] is correct?

3. Local guy who knows more about tractors than I [EVERYONE knows more about tractors than I do...] tells me I should dump a quart of ATF in the oil, run the woodsplitter a couple of hours, then drain/refill with Rotella 15/40 and change filter [present filter=Hastings 407-apparently rare/precious] with Fram C159. He claims this will free sticky lifters/stuck rings, clean the valves and generally remove sludge from the motor. He recommends then adding "Motor Medic" to the oil. Should I do this?

Current oil pressure runs 25-30 pounds cold, oil is pretty black, she smokes some on starting [but smoke is black, making me think too rich?]. I have a tuneup kit, carb kit and lower radiator hose heater on order, going to get manual from the museum.

4. Same guy recommends adding 2 qts of diesel to the trans, driving a mile or so to warm it up, then drain and refill with either the Rotella or 20-50 conventional oil. Is this a reasonable procedure?

5. Same guy says there is a factory-installed plate or plug located under the top plate on the trans which "locks out" 2 tallest gears on tractors originally equipped with steel wheels and that it's a simple procedure to remove it and so gain those 2 road gears. True or false?

Located in NW Montana -30F to 95F], tractor will likely not drive more than a few hundred yards on any day, mostly be used stationary to power woodsplitter in fall and winter months for maybe 40 hrs/year. Very occasional use of FEL to move a rock or two...

Re(2): '41 Oliver 70-newbie questions

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 16, 2014 at 08:09:58 AM by Larry Harsin

1. Those were used for handling cultivators or planters that were mounted on the pipes.

2. Your's is the first pattern you have listed.

3. It is up to you if you want to do this. 15-40 is fine. I would leave it as is and use 30 weight. But 15-40 is fine. Do whatever you want.

4. I would be in favor of changing the transmission oil. It has probably been in there for years. That transmission, many of them had 140 weight gear lube. If you don't live in a cold climate, I would try to find some of this and use it. You'd have to special order it probably. If you live in a cold climate, use 85-140. The reason I'm saying this is if you use a straight 90 weight, you are going to have too many leaks.

5. I think this is true. You would have to get a Shop Manual to show the location. A Parts Manual might show it. You can get these Manuals at the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099.

I'd use 85-140 as you live in Montana. Larry

Re(3): '41 Oliver 70-newbie questions

IP: 66.135.81.44 Posted on January 16, 2014 at 12:56:01 PM by Dean in Montana

Thank you very much, Larry! Have all 3 manuals on order and will use the 85-140 as you advise. Don't know what you mean by "mounted on the pipes". See, I told you I'm a newbie-

Re(4): '41 Oliver 70-newbie questions

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 27, 2014 at 08:25:13 AM by Larry Harsin

They are implement mounting pipes that went through the holes in the frame. Larry

1963 oliver 1600

IP: 98.20.169.110 Posted on January 8, 2014 at 09:33:48 PM by steve tindell

Will the 1600 run if battery is hooked up (-) ground. And could it damage the electrical system. According to the shop manual it is (+) ground. I just bought this tractor without a battery. I hooked it up (-) ground and it starts and only runs with severe choke.

Re(1): 1963 oliver 1600

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 14, 2014 at 08:07:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It would run if that is hooked u[ backwards. If it still has the generator, it should be positive ground. If it has been converted to an alternator, it would be negative ground. Larry

880 weak hydraulics

IP: 64.7.105.254 Posted on January 8, 2014 at 04:33:07 PM by Jim

I have a 59 880 Oliver with a 1610 loader. For the past year the loader would get stuck when cold outside I could free it up by operating stick several times. Currently loader tip works but weak and up down only has two feet of travel. Does the pump Need to be rebuilt? If so were can I get parts? Also during the summer when running a hay conditioner I would add fluid sometimes 2qts, after a few days but I never could find any major leaks.

Re(1): 880 weak hydraulics

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 14, 2014 at 08:03:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I imagine the the oil is going into the rear end, So, probably the hydraulic pump needs to be reworked. Larry

Super 55 will only run with choke on.

IP: 198.254.206.42 Posted on January 8, 2014 at 03:54:23 PM by Pete

My gas powered super 55 has always run great. This fall it started losing power under load and then it would only run with the choke closed almost all the way. I cleaned the air filter (it was dirty) and changed the oil in the cup but it didn't help. Is a carburetor cleaning in order or is there anything else that I should check?

Re(1): Super 55 will only run with choke on.

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on January 9, 2014 at 04:15:15 PM by Karl

I have a Super 55 with the identical problem. Even a new after-market carburetor did not solve the problem. I'm wondering if it's a leaky manifold. I look forward to Larry H's response!

Re(2): Super 55 will only run with choke on.

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 3, 2014 at 09:31:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is remove the fuel strainer and clean it. If that doesn't do it, then you have to go to the carb. Larry

Super 99 gm

IP: 68.69.84.202 Posted on January 6, 2014 at 09:09:09 PM by Ryan

Larry, I am wondering what my options are with switching to a more common tire size on my super 99? The tires and rims both have seen there better days. I was hoping to go to atleast a 20.8 tread width tire. Thanks in advance

Re(1): Super 99 gm

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 6, 2014 at 10:12:57 PM by Larry Harsin

There was a 23.1x26 and 18.4x34. The 2 different sizes require different wheels and rims. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It will tell you all of the tires and sizes etc. Get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 70 Power Lift Pto

IP: 108.16.193.66 Posted on January 5, 2014 at 07:58:19 PM by Christian Gagliano

Hi, I have an oliver 70 row crop and my father and I are wondering how you engage the Pto, belt Pulley, and use the Power Lift for the cultivators. Thank you for your time, -Christian Gagliano

Re(1): Oliver 70 Power Lift Pto

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 6, 2014 at 10:09:39 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a shifter lever on the right side below the dash. When you engage it, have your clutch pedal depressed. This turns all of those things on. If you don't have a Operator's Manual, you need to get one. Get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Hart Parr 70

IP: 50.33.63.187 Posted on January 5, 2014 at 06:29:36 PM by mark muller

Hi Larry, I am haveing trouble getting the rear engine pins out of my 70 to remove the engine. What are your thoughts on the best way to do this

Re(1): Hart Parr 70

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 6, 2014 at 10:06:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Just use a 1/2 in, ready bolt and a piece of pipe that is larger than the pin and make a puller to remove the pin,. Larry

Re(2): hart parr 70

IP: 50.33.63.187 Posted on January 7, 2014 at 09:04:32 AM by mark muller

Thanks Larry, good Idea, I have been using a 10 lbs slide hammer it is not moving, I think I am going to have to use a torch to heat it up.

1855 hydraulics

IP: 64.33.229.75 Posted on January 5, 2014 at 01:44:49 AM by shane

I have an 1855. The hydraulics have not worked correctly since i bought it. The pump chatters when using 3 point or remotes. I use it on an auger with a hyd motor on the hopper. When the oil is warm and I run the tractor at high rpm the auger slows down. I have replace the compensator and adjusted pressure to 2200 psi. I just put a loader on the tractor and if i have it at an idle everything is ok, but when i run high rpm the loader is slow on all fucntions.... any ideas would be appreciated

Re(1): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 6, 2014 at 10:03:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I think probably your hydraulic pump is weak and should be replaced. Larry

1850 clutch

IP: 66.76.222.84 Posted on January 4, 2014 at 07:56:34 PM by Nick Wiggins

I tried to pull start this tractor after setting for about 5 years. The motor never turned no matter what gear I tried in. It's as if there is no link (clutch) between the transmission and engine and yes, I took the little plate off and looked to see if there was a clutch in it. Looks normal from there. Did I miss something obvious? Looks like that chain underneath is missing. Do you know where to get one?

Re(1): 1850 clutch

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on February 3, 2014 at 09:34:02 AM by Larry Harsin

That missing chain is the problem! I have a used chain if you still need it. 712-362-2966. Larry

1655 Diesel Starting

IP: 75.100.6.36 Posted on January 1, 2014 at 04:03:31 PM by Travis

Larry, I have yet another question for you. My 1655 diesel that was just completely overhauled with new fuel pump and injectors as well, seems to start hard. My engine cranking rpm's are 156-167 rpm's. I am getting white smoke from the stack as I crank, but it still takes 15-20 seconds of cranking to get it to start. This is after sitting in my shop for 2 days at 60 degrees F. After it runs for several minutes it will start right up right away. Is there something that should be checked or fixed to improve the starting. Thank you again.

Re(1): 1655 Diesel Starting

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 2, 2014 at 08:26:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The amount of recess in the head, when the valves are installed, is critical. Make sure your manifold preheater is working properly. Larry

Re(2): 1655 Diesel Starting

IP: 75.100.6.36 Posted on January 3, 2014 at 07:45:14 PM by Travis

Larry, I would imagine your wife told you but on a whim I called an older retired oliver guy near me and he just happen to have a preheater up on his shelf. I put it in tonight, tried it out and my start time when down to about nothing. It fired up so fast it scared me. I never thought it would make that big of a difference, but I am very pleased. Thank you again for all the help and I will keep your number handy for the next time I need a hard to find part. Thanks again.

Re(3): 1655 Diesel Starting

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on January 4, 2014 at 08:41:48 AM by Larry Harsin

That is fine! I'm glad you got it running! Larry

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