build card codes

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on August 2, 2004 at 08:29:28 PM by butch coulter

I JUST GOT MY BUILD CARD FROM THE FLOYD COUNTY MUSEUM THAT SHOWS THAT MY TRACTOR WAS BUILD IN AUG 23 1957 AND SHIPPED ON THE AUG 28 TO NASHVILE,TN. THEY DO A GREAT JOB BUT THEY ARE STILL LOOKING FOR THE BUILD CARD CODES. I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS A LOT OF CHECK MARKS IN THE LITTLE SQUARES NOW IT REALLY DRIVING ME CRAZY WHAT IT ALL MEANS. LIKE I SAID THIS IS MY FIRST TRACTOR AND I'M LIKE A DETECTIVE ON THE JOB FINDING ALL THE FACTS SO IF THERE IS ANY ONE OUT THERE THAT KNOW JUST A LITTLE THAT WOULD HELP ME UNTIL THEY FIND THE CODES THANK YOU BUTCH

Re(1): build card codes

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 04:48:00 AM by Larry Harsin

If they can't answer you, I sure can't. Those checks are probably all of the little things that went into building your tractor. Look at your tractor and see what you have. Sandra

oliver 28-44

IP: 68.86.34.79 Posted on August 2, 2004 at 11:28:42 AM by chris simmons

I was just wondering if you new of any place that has oliver 28-44 parts. Like an engine rebuild kit and a carb rebuild kit. Any parts though would be helpful. One more thing I have the chance to purchase an oliver 28-44 and was wondering how you liked them and if they are a good tractor. I'm also thinking of using it to do some stock tractor pulls would this tractor be a good one? thanks

Re(1): oliver 28-44

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 04:38:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have much for a 28-44. Contact Ollie Schafer for an engine rebuild kit. He will probably know where you can get carb parts, also. Ph: 618-664-3050 Email: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry

Re(2): oliver 28-44

IP: 68.86.34.79 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 11:39:11 AM by chris

About how much is a 28-44 worth in perfect runiing condition. It is just missing the belt pulley. Otherwise excellent condition. I live in Kansas City Missouri area.

Re(3): oliver 28-44

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:54:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say it is worth in the $2500 - $3500 range. Larry

550

IP: 64.12.116.210 Posted on August 2, 2004 at 09:46:08 PM by mac

looking for a transmission output gear from a 1962 oliver sn 119821-519 a 40 tooth 100-010? parts manual says # 21 beveled pinion gear assembly any suggestions?

Re(1): 550

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 04:26:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1600 hydraulics

IP: 207.179.66.226 Posted on July 30, 2004 at 09:44:33 PM by Steve Taylor

I have an Oliver 1600 with a loader. When I use the bucket tilt cylinders, it will often blow the leathers out of one of the lift cylinders. It puzzles me as I am not even touching the lift controls. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong?

Re(1): 1600 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:35:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Reverse the hoses to that valve that runs those cylinders. See if that helps. Larry

Pink Oliver

IP: 216.189.133.191 Posted on July 30, 2004 at 12:31:00 PM by Kelly

Do you know what year they painted the Oliver pink? I read an article about it but I dont remember what year it was.

Re(1): Pink Oliver

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on July 31, 2004 at 02:12:28 PM by Super 55

email Sherry Schaefer of Oliver Heritage Magazine at sherry@oliverinformation.com I think she owns one.

Re(2): Pink Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:33:16 AM by Larry Harsin

The tractor that you are referring to was the Mist Green 880, that was built in Jan and Feb of 1959. There were approx. 200 of them built. Sometimes they were referred to as the "pink green Oliver". Larry

power steering unit for 1850

IP: 12.105.86.217 Posted on July 29, 2004 at 07:26:21 AM by Henry G. Rotondo

Hi Larry It looks like I need to replace the Saginaw power steering unit on my 1850.Where should I go for a replacement? Does anyone recondition them or sell reconditioned units?

Re(1): power steering unit for 1850

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 29, 2004 at 05:52:48 PM by Larry from MD

I would recomend NOT getting a rebuilt one they don't last any time at all.You can buy kits with char-lin units that steer much better,can get parts for and last longer.if you want a cheaper way you can buy just a unit and do all the conversion work yourself.

Re(2): power steering unit for 1850

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:22:40 AM by Larry Harsin

What Larry from MD said is correct. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, for a new or used Char-Lynn by Eaton. Larry

power steering for 1850

IP: 12.105.86.217 Posted on July 30, 2004 at 09:46:41 AM by henry rotondo

Hi Larry Thanks for your help. I looked and I can buy the components needed to make the change. The one question remaining is the cubic inch displacement of the Saginaw valve so I can match up a Charlynn valve to it. What do you think?

Re(1): power steering for 1850

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 30, 2004 at 12:48:38 PM by Larry from MD

Thats always a bit of a guess.5 to 7 gpm.I know a valve from a massy 510 combine work great.Or a valve rated4.5ci per revolution.If you have surplus center book item 9-5937 is the one you want to reuse your oliver steering colum.

Oliver 4240 and 4340 plows?

IP: 216.46.146.1 Posted on July 29, 2004 at 05:38:01 PM by Geoff

I am wondering what the difference is between a 4240 plow and a 4340 plow. Is the 4340 just a newer updated version of the 4240 or is it a completely different plow? Also what years were both these plows made in? What sizes were these made in(how many furrows and what spacings could they be set up as?) Could a 4340 be made into a 2 furrow or a 3 furrow at 12 inch spacings?

Re(1): Oliver 4240 and 4340 plows?

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:27:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The 4240 plow was a 2 bottom that you could add one bottom onto. The 4340 was a 3 bottom plow that you could add one bottom to. These plows were built approx. from mid-50's on through 1970. They were made to be convertible from 14" to 16". Larry

S88

IP: 63.190.105.147 Posted on July 28, 2004 at 10:07:51 PM by rich

I picked up a super 88 today it has side curtains on it but I have never seen them like these they are only half curtains. Aslo what year is it serail number is 25695-801 and spec # is 18-0042. What do I have? Thanks for any info

Re(1): S88

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:18:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Your S88 was built in 1955. Those side curtains were the way they were on the Supers. Larry

Hart Parr 70 Rebuild Kit

IP: 204.42.17.130 Posted on July 27, 2004 at 11:37:59 PM by D. Miller

Larry, I am trying to find a piston/ring/sleeve rebuild kit for my 1937 Oliver Hart Parr 70 HC. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks.

Re(1): Hart Parr 70 Rebuild Kit

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:14:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 64.33.142.182 Posted on July 27, 2004 at 10:47:45 PM by K. Coleman

Recently my father purchased a 70 and I cannot find the serial number or where the serial number should be. We have many fleet line tractors and are looking in the same place as them with no luck. Could you tell me where the serial number may be or give me an idea of what year it may be? Also, it has twin exhaust stacks - what would the purpose of this be and would that be original equipment?

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:11:56 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number on 70's is located on a tag, on the left side of the engine block towards the front. The twin exhaust stacks were installed to help the valves run cooler (less back pressure) and possibly get a little more power. I'm not aware that they were original equipment. I believe they were added after the tractor was sold. Larry

1550 oil filter

IP: 209.247.222.94 Posted on July 27, 2004 at 04:18:06 PM by John

will a 1550 gas oil filter fit on a 770 gas??? Thanks...John.

Re(1): 1550 oil filter

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 30, 2004 at 12:50:53 PM by Larry from MD

If you change the whole filter base it should work fine. Re(2): 1550 oil filter

IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 08:07:18 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They are different. Larry

S-88

IP: 4.225.94.33 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 05:58:27 PM by John

Larry, I have a 55-56? S-88 standard that I do a little pulling with and am trying to get a little more power. I was told by someone that a intake manifold from a 1800 gas, which is supposedly larger than the S-88 intake manifold, would bolt up to the S-88 head. Is this true? and if so how much bigger can I go? would one fit from a 1850?. Thanks. John

Re(1): S-88

IP: 172.133.43.46 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 06:09:12 PM by doug wenig

no this manifold will not work cause the 1800/1850 used a 12 port[6 intake 6 exhaust] head and the supers used a 9 port[3 intake 6 exhaust head. you can use a manifold for a 1650 gas, that has been done before and works good. should also use 1650 carb for best results

Re(2): S-88

IP: 4.225.88.190 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 09:18:21 PM by john

Sorry, I forgot to state that this S-88 was a diesel. Will a 1650 3 port intake manifold (gas or diesel) still be larger and allow more air flow than the S-88 and still bolt up? Thanks. John

Re(3): S-88

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 11:36:00 PM by Larry Harsin

No. The 1650 3 port is different also. But and 880 diesel intake manifold does have a little more room. I would also use an 880 diesel air clieaner. Larry

Re(4): S-88

IP: 192.44.136.103 Posted on July 28, 2004 at 07:14:30 AM by john

Thanks for the information. Do you or any one else have any other tips for imporved preformance and more horsepower from a Super-88 diesel? I have already turned the pump up to the point where we started to lose horsepower. I have put bigger valves in the head. Anything else?? As always, thanks for any information you or anyone else can provide. John

Re(5): S-88

IP: 65.6.36.203 Posted on July 28, 2004 at 10:03:03 PM by George

Bigger tips on the injectors and make sure it is turning at the max. allowed rpm. If the preheater is still in the intake take it out to reduce restriction in the air intake.

Re(6): S-88

IP: 4.225.94.228 Posted on July 31, 2004 at 10:09:22 PM by John

If I have more room to turn the pump up, Could I get the same effect by turning the pump up more verses bigger tips? I suppose I need to have a dyno handy so I know when I have went far enough.

Re(7): S-88

IP: 65.6.57.159 Posted on August 1, 2004 at 06:59:22 PM by George

Without the bigger tips turning the pump up only helps to a limit. The tips allow for the extra fuel to be sprayed into the piston.

Re(8): S-88

IP: 4.225.93.57 Posted on August 2, 2004 at 08:40:44 PM by john

Know where I can get bigger injector tips? And what size should I ask for? Thanks. John

Re(9): S-88

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:09:08 AM by julmer

See a good diesel injection service who does pump and injector work and they can help you. Where in the world are you located?

Re(10): S-88

IP: 4.224.207.96 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 08:48:27 PM by john

South of columbus, Oh. I'll contact Columbus Diesel Service, probably my best bet. Thanks to all for tips and suggestions. John

Re(11): S-88

IP: 65.6.34.38 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:41:21 PM by George

City Dsl. in Knoxville Tn did a set for me cost 400.00 with a complete rebuild of the injectors as well. Now if I could just get the rest of the tractor together to use them.

Oliver 55

IP: 66.227.224.202 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 01:24:43 PM by Shelly Ferrell

Hi, we have a customer with an Oliver 55 tractor (we're a CaseIH/New Holland dealership) who is having repeat problems with his oil filter leaking. We have sold him Fleetguard #LF726, or New Holland #86545943. I believe he has also tried a Wix. Is this a common problem, and is there an adapter made to convert to a more conventional spin-on type? Thank You, Shelly

Re(1): Oliver 55

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 11:51:26 PM by Larry Harsin

He may need to get a different base. Sometimes those threads that hold the filter on, get bad. First, he should get a filter from AGCO, part number 100126ASA. Try that. If that doesn't work, email me at cobalt@rconnect.com. I may have a base for him. If he doesn't have an AGCO Dealer, he can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and he can send it to him. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 55

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 27, 2004 at 02:17:47 PM by Larry from MD

This is a common problem.The center pipe and restrictor can come out and allow too much pressure on the sealing ring of the filter.They can be replaced,but the same problem will recur.Along with the worn threads its best to get the new improved base.

770 clutch

IP: 207.40.144.66 Posted on July 24, 2004 at 09:28:50 PM by kraig mcmillan

Larry, I am replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate on my 1958 770 - (does not have a power booster). I have the throw-out bearing and the pilot(?) bearing that goes in the bell housing. Is there a bearing or bushing the throw out bearing rides on? Does this bearing/bushing travel with the throw-out bearing? or does the throw-out bearing slide over this bearing/bushing? How long is this bearing/bushing? does it extend to, or through, the bearing in the bell housing? As always thanks for the help!

Re(1): 770 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.90 Posted on July 25, 2004 at 10:33:20 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It doesn't ride on a bearing, it rides on a tube that is pressed into the bell housing. Normally they don't give any problem and can be reused. Larry

Re(2): 770 clutch

IP: 208.11.117.248 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 08:31:43 PM by Kraig mcmillan

My tractor is missing the tube you mentioned. Does this tube press into the bearing that is in rear of the bell housing or, does it press directly into the bell housing itself? And, does this tube ride up aginst the splined center of cluth disk? Thanks!

Re(2): 770 clutch

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 12:19:31 PM by Larry from MD

It sounds like you are allso missing the piece that holds the bearing and rides along with it on the tube larry is talking about.This holder usually has a grease hose attached so you can grease things from the outside.A lot of the companys now are selling a bearing with grease zerk right on it,but if you don't have a hole in the bellhouseing you can't use it.

Re(3): 770 clutch

IP: 208.11.117.10 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 10:00:21 PM by Kraig McMillan

Is this the cast iron piece that has an ear on each side? I do have one but its worn badly. A machinist buddy of mine said he thouhgt he could repair it. Are these still avalible from AGCO? or maybe some other supplier? Also you solved another mystery, now I know why I found a piece of rubber hose in the bell housing. Thanks for the help KM

Re(4): 770 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 11:45:20 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I have a used one. If you are interested, email me about the parts you need. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

1755 wishbone

IP: 207.177.83.121 Posted on July 24, 2004 at 05:15:49 PM by JR

Hi all , Since I've only owned one tractor in my life ('74 1755 )I bought a few months ago I've got alot of questions but will narrow it down to just the frontend . My wishbone is welded onto the middle tube on the bottom ,is this right ? I've seen some welded but the manual doesn't show it that way . If it's not right I'd like to put it back to factory (?) stock style . What could I expect to pay for a complete frontend minus the mounts and tires/wheels ? I'm thinking of putting on a loader in a few years . Should I upgrade to a 1855 or even a 2155 frontend if there is a difference in strength ? Or would that be overkill ? Thanks, JR

Re(1): 1755 wishbone

IP: 67.2.248.90 Posted on July 25, 2004 at 10:29:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is as it should be. The frontend on an 1855 is the same as one on a 1755. Larry

Re(1): 1755 wishbone

IP: 209.152.95.40 Posted on July 26, 2004 at 08:00:41 PM by JR

Hi Larry , Thank you for the information . I've got a pile of little things and one or two big -big things to fix on this tractor . But now that I know I don't have to replace the whole frontend I still have to replace the outer steering arms . And maybe the knuckles too if the splines are torn up . I've looked at them but didn't have anything to compare them to . They are worn but I can't tell how much . The arms are shot ! They move a strong 1/2 inch before the wheels do . So I need two '74 -1755 steering arms and one inner tie rod end . I've got heavy cast arms instead of some that I've seen that are thinner . And these are flat instead of dropping slighly . My serial # is 253-103-676 , Model # 675-22491 . Would you have these available as good used pieces ? I haven't yet bought a parts manual but I'm going to soon . Thanks for all your help ! JR

Re(2): 1755 wishbone

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 10:58:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I have these parts. I need for you to email me the part number that is cast on the steering arm. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Wide Fronts

IP: 66.43.243.187 Posted on July 24, 2004 at 05:12:30 PM by John Calvin

Dear Larry, Will a wide front from a 770 fit on a RC 77? If yes,will it bolt on without modification? Thank You, John

Re(1): Wide Fronts

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on July 25, 2004 at 08:20:43 AM by Larry from MD Yes and yes.

1550 rear axle drip

IP: 216.161.122.187 Posted on July 23, 2004 at 10:03:51 PM by dwm

I have a 1550 row crop with the left rear axle seal dripping a little. I have an IT manual that only tells how to remove the entire axle housing and replace the inner and outer bearings and seals. Can't you just replace the outer seal by removing the wheel and hub U-bolts, polishing up the axle some, then removing the outer bearing carrier from the axle housing? Along with supporting the tractor, do you also need to support the axle when removing the outer bearing/seal carrier? Is there any danger of damaging anything inside by the axle not being supported on the outer end while the bearing is off? I know there are shims to set the bearing pre-load, I would assume you would re-use the same number of shims when re-installing? FYI, this tractor carried a mounted picker/sheller during the harvest season for 7 or 8 years in the 70s when it was much younger. It has almost 6,000 hours on it. Thanks in advance for the help. dwm

Re(1): 1550 rear axle drip

IP: 67.2.248.222 Posted on July 23, 2004 at 11:25:51 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a simple matter to replace that seal. Simply jack up the tractor, remove the rear wheel and the hub. Then, before you loosen any bolts on the axle cap, check for any looseness in the axle bearings by just gripping the axle and lifting up and down on it. If you don't have any play, unbolt the cap on the end of the housing and slide it off of the axle. Then you can replace the seal. However, if the axle was loose, I would, before installing the new seal in the cap, remove the appropriate amount of shims and bolt the cap up to check the play of the bearings. Only remove enough shims to get rid of the looseness. Then, remove the cap, install the seal and bolt it up. Larry

77 belt pully seal

IP: 209.247.222.114 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 08:14:55 PM by John Can you change the seal right behind the pulley without taking the unit out of the tractor??? Do you have a seal #??? It is a 1953 77. Thank you...John.

Re(1): 77 belt pully seal

IP: 67.2.249.211 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 11:29:06 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That unit has to be taken out of the tractor and completely disassembled to change the seal. I don't have one. You'll have to get one from an AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

880 carb

IP: 24.217.25.252 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 09:24:34 AM by Marty

Thanks Larry, I finaly got a new carb on the oliver. It works great governer kicks in and no sputtering or coughing. Now I have a great tractor with the three point hitch and running great. New paint job this fall a she will be ready for any thing. Is there any other thing you can suggest? I would love to have a loader. I will be using her for mowing and grading and disking a couple of small fields. Thanks again for all the great advise Marty

Re(1): 880 carb

IP: 67.2.249.211 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 11:26:07 PM by Larry Harsin

It all sounds good. If you have it working right, don't mess with it!! :) Just enjoy it. Larry

Turning Radius

IP: 207.201.209.250 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 09:38:35 AM by Myron KY

Hi Larry & Sandy, I have a question for you and anyone else who would care to answer. On the 1650 Gas, that you have for sale, your add states that it has a "short turning radius wide front end". Were there normal turning radius and short turning radius options? If so, what parts defer between the two? Thanks, Myron KY

Re(1): Turning Radius

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 08:08:09 AM by Larry Harsin

This tractor has the later style wide front so that the wheels will turn shorter. The arms on the spindles are different. The arm under the tractor where the tie rods attach is different. Also, the design of the wishbone is different on this front end compared to the earlier style. Larry

Re(2): Turning Radius

IP: 207.201.209.250 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 10:59:57 AM by Myron KY

Thanks Larry!!!

1655 motor oil capacity

IP: 66.163.147.146 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 00:06:46 AM by karl

Lary, How much oil does a 1655 require for a motor oil change with oil filter replacement? Thanks.

Re(1): 1655 motor oil capacity

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 06:16:58 AM by Ron

You really need an Operator's Manual. There are lots of fluids and filters to change/clean and some have a very specific procedure, the the T/FD. Have 10 qts. on hand, you'll likley need about 9. Always go by the mark on the dipstick.

Re(2): 1655 motor oil capacity

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on July 21, 2004 at 08:03:47 AM by Larry Harsin

It will take 7 or 8 qts. Larry

Re(3): 1655 motor oil capacity

IP: 172.165.82.253 Posted on July 23, 2004 at 00:10:48 AM by doug wenig

the 1655 holds 8 qts in the oil pan and 1.5 qts for the filter for 9.5 qts total

pull type combine

IP: 12.179.8.204 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 11:27:32 PM by Randy

Larry, how many different models of pull type combines did Oliver make?? My dad is interested in one. What is the going price nowadays for a good running one. Thanks

Re(1): pull type combine

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 00:04:10 AM by Larry Harsin

The most common ones are the Number 15 and the Number 18. That is the only 2 that I am aware of, that there would be any availability of. The book shows that those were the only 2 pull types. There were some before WWII, also. Price could be anywhere from $300 to $800. It all depends on where you live and the availability. You could run an ad in the HPOCA Magazine and check ads in the Antique Power Magazine. Larry

diesel addicted to ether

IP: 65.129.105.81 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 11:14:18 PM by Tom

Larry. I have a 550 diesel that won't start unless you give it a little shot of ether. I thought it was just the cold this past winter and spring but last week it was 70 insde the tractor barn and I still had to use ether. Any help greatly appreciated.Thanks,Tom

Re(1): diesel addicted to ether

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 11:57:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably the compression is getting so low that you have to use ether. Does the engine smoke when you are trying to start it before giving it ether? If it doesn't, you may be having the beginning of a weak injection head. However, my experience has been that your problem is mainly due to low compression. Probably an engine overhaul is in order. Larry

Re(2): diesel addicted to ether

IP: 65.129.0.74 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 09:40:03 PM by Tom

Yes Larry, it does smoke before starting but it all clears up soon after and not at all fully warmed up at idle. Under heavy load it will also push smoke. So, I think I've found my winter project. Thanks,Tom

1850 Oil Leak

IP: 69.66.72.182 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 11:12:30 PM by mike

Hi Larry We have an 1850 with oil leaking between the head and block. Leak is on the right side about 2/3 way back on the motor. Do you think we could get the oil leak to stop if we just re-torque the head, or will we need to replace the head gasket? Is this common on the perkins or should we be concerned there is a worse problem? Thanks Mike

Re(1): 1850 Oil Leak

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 08:03:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't worry too much about it. The easy thing to do would be to retorque the head, which I would do. Are you sure that it is not the valve cover gasket that is leaking. That is usually where a Perkins leaks. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Oil Leak

IP: 69.66.72.153 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 07:01:49 PM by mike

Larry I know this is a tough question, but about how many hours should you get on a perkins before you have to overhaul it? Thanks for you input! Mike

Re(3): 1850 Oil Leak

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 11:54:08 PM by Larry Harsin I can't answer this. Some of those engines run for a long, long time and others less. Larry

hp

IP: 66.152.128.46 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 11:02:26 PM by d

I was wondering what the h.p. diff would be from the pto to the engine if any. I recently hooked up to a dyno and was wondering if the reading from there is the same up front? thanks.

Re(1): hp

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 08:00:50 AM by Larry Harsin

None of the Olivers had a fly wheel HP rating. However, if they had, it would be more. Just as a guess, it would be approx. 10 per cent more through the fly wheel than through the PTO. Larry

1850 Oil Pressure

IP: 199.102.39.65 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 09:07:44 AM by dg

I just bought an 1850 and overhauled it.When you start it,it takes about 10 seconds or so for the oil pressure to come up just as if you have just changed the oil and put in a new filter but it does it every time you start it.Is there a check valve somewhere that is supposed to keep that cannister full of oil? Thanks in advance

Re(1): 1850 Oil Pressure

IP: 69.66.83.200 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 10:03:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The condition you describe is not abnormal. Just let the engine run slow until the oil pressure comes up and then proceed normally. Larry

Re(1): 1850 Oil Pressure

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 12:58:01 PM by Ron

Some oil filters have an anti-drainback valve and others don't. Be sure you have the right one. Appearance means nothing, you have to have the right part number.

1755 Oliver hydraulics

IP: 67.50.24.22 Posted on July 17, 2004 at 04:06:34 PM by Tom

I have a 1755 Oliver that I changed the hydraulic pump on and It worked for a few days, it quit working and I was told the valve underneath the pump was plugged. I had that redone and it still didn't work. I just got done putting a second pump in and I still have no hydraulics. Has anyone run into this or have any ideas what I could check next?

Re(1): 1755 Oliver hydraulics

IP: 69.66.83.200 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 10:12:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Check with Tom's Shop Foreman at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 12.179.8.203 Posted on July 16, 2004 at 10:49:08 PM by Randy

I have a 1650 and the manual says to run ATF fluid in the hydraulic pump. Is that what you recomend or is there something better to put in? Thanks for all replies.

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 17, 2004 at 06:32:17 AM by Ron

The 1650 manual I have calls for ATF in the HYDRAUL-SHIFT. The hydraulic system gets hydraulic fluid... any high-quality universal hydraulic fluid works fine. I use FarmOyl "Agmaster".

Re(2): 1650 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 69.66.83.200 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 10:09:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree. I use 10 or 20 weight that is non-foaming for the hydraulic. Larry

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 172.165.82.253 Posted on July 23, 2004 at 00:16:25 AM by doug wenig

I USE WHITES TYPE 55 HYDRAULIC OIL IN MY 1650-THE SAME OIL USED IN THE LATER 1655S AND 2-70 WHITES

Governor bumper spring

IP: 205.188.116.135 Posted on July 16, 2004 at 05:55:40 PM by Dan

Hi Larry, Do you know where I can get the small (1/2" long) bumper spring that fits on the adjustment screw inside of a fleetline governor? Mine has broken into 2 pieces. Does anyone make a repair kit for the Olivers? I also could use a thrust washer. Thanks

Re(1): Governor bumper spring

IP: 69.66.83.200 Posted on July 18, 2004 at 10:07:08 AM by Larry Harsin

The part number you need for the bumper spring,is B291A. The part number for the thrust washer is K289. You can get them at your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Tractor Age

IP: 66.35.139.204 Posted on July 14, 2004 at 04:04:20 PM by Brian Rotz

Have super 77 diesel and would like to know the age here are the numbers on the block 185220B and below that is 1M100B Thanks Brian

Re(1): Tractor Age

IP: 67.2.248.128 Posted on July 14, 2004 at 11:36:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It would help if we had the serial number. It is on an aluminum tag on the dash. Of those numbers you sent, the first one is a Waukesha number and the 2nd one is the Oliver part number. Larry

Re(2): Tractor Age

IP: 66.35.139.204 Posted on July 19, 2004 at 12:08:15 PM by brian Rotz

Larry, Can't find a I.D nmumber on the dashboard, any other locations I can get the numbers, There are some numbers on top of the fuel injector pump.

Re(3): Tractor Age

IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on July 20, 2004 at 00:08:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Look on the bottom of the transmission housing. Sometimes there is a casting date there. Otherwise, sometimes, a date is stamped on the top of the cylinder head where the thermostat bolts on. You would have to remove the thermostat housing to check this one. Larry

Re(4): Tractor Age

IP: 66.35.139.204 Posted on July 23, 2004 at 09:15:11 AM by Brian Rotz

LARRY, Found these numbers on the bottom of the housing " D 8 31 55" am I understanding this to be the date the tractor was built. Thanks again Brian

Re(5): Tractor Age

IP: 67.2.242.30 Posted on August 4, 2004 at 05:12:20 AM by Larry Harsin

That's the date the casting was poured - Aug. 8, 1955. The tractor was probably built within the next 4 months. Larry

880 motor ID

IP: 24.217.25.252 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 03:34:52 PM by Marty

Hi Larry, Thanks again for your web site. I am trying to buy a carburetor for my 880 I am getting different information about the motor some say it is a 265 and others say it is a FG226. Could you help me ID the motor? The carb is probably the same, But I would still like to know what is in this fine old Oliver. Here is some numbers I found on the side of the block 104305A 190320N and 7141. Thanks again for your wisdom!!!! Marty

Re(1): 880 motor ID

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 08:15:44 PM by Ron

All 880s came with 265s.

Re(2): 880 motor ID

IP: 67.2.249.173 Posted on July 14, 2004 at 00:03:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 880 has a 265. I believe the FG226 is a Continental number. Oliver didn't put them into 880's. 104305 A sounds like an 880 engine number. The most popular number on 880 blocks that I have seen is KA 100E. Larry

Re(2): 880 motor ID

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 14, 2004 at 09:05:34 PM by Ron

You might want to buy a set of manuals so you can buy the right parts for it.

Re(3): 880 motor ID

IP: 208.5.112.4 Posted on July 15, 2004 at 01:04:28 AM by Marty

I have the original manual for the tractor. I have read all the infomation on the carb all it said was that it could have come with two different carbs, a Zeinth and a Marvel. What it didn't say was who or when carb was changed last or any other part that some one put on in the 40 plus years this tractor has been around.

putting my 70rc back together

IP: 152.163.252.101 Posted on July 12, 2004 at 11:18:18 AM by Roger Anderson

My 70 RC has been changed over to 12volt system. It has a delco-remy alt. with two wires from it. A red and a white. Can you tell me do these wires go to the amp meter or where. I am having trouble getting the wiring back to where it was. Any help would be appriciated. THANK YOU ROGER

Re(1): putting my 70rc back together

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 12, 2004 at 02:34:17 PM by Ron

Internal or external voltage regulator? Important because all Delco's are either 3 wire or 1 one wire, there are no two wire models.

Re(2): putting my 70rc back together

IP: 152.163.253.36 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 10:15:33 AM by Roger Anderson It is internal

Re(3): putting my 70rc back together

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 11:06:27 AM by Ron

Heavy wire on insulated post goes to the "+" side of the ammeter or to the starter solenoid where the "+" battery cable connects. #1 goes to the "run" terminal on the ignition switch. #2 goes to any battery positive. It can even be connected to the insulated post where the heavy cable connects on the back of the alternator. Be sure the case is gounded. Test with a test light or DMM. They usually self-ground through the bracket but paint/corrosion sometimes interferes.

1655 questions

IP: 209.183.160.8 Posted on July 12, 2004 at 00:10:10 AM by Chester Baize

Hi Larry. Great site! I have purchased a 1655 and have manuals for same. After reading, I have not found a good way to determine if I have a dual speed PTO. It currently has a 540 rpm shaft installed and I would like to install a 1000 rpm shaft. Is there anyway to determine if it is dual speed and also what parts will be necessary to convert to the 1000 rpm. If so, do you have the parts available? This tractor also has a front end loader plumbed to the remotes. I would like to install regular loader controls using the beyond power ports as you have previously described. Do I need open center or closed center valves? And do you stock those? Thank you.

Re(1): 1655 questions

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 12, 2004 at 06:57:21 AM by Ron

All you need is the 1,000 rpm "kit" which is a shaft and a couple of other parts. Any AGCO dealer can supply. Simply swapping shafts changes speeds. I have a 1650, basically the same tractor, and have used it extensively for loader work for many years. Study up in the Operator's Manual and you will find the correct way to set up the hydraulics for proper loader operation. You don't need a "power beyond" setup; you have a great loader tractor as it is.

Re(2): 1655 questions

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on July 12, 2004 at 10:18:17 PM by Larry Harsin

It is very doubtful that you have a dual speed set up. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you want to install a remote valve, it should be open center. You can get these from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(3): 1655 questions

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 02:38:56 PM by Ron

To switch between speeds you swap shafts on the dual-speed. If you have a single speed (either speed), then you buy a field installation kit from any AGCO dealer.

PTO 1959 550

IP: 209.206.129.39 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 12:00:07 PM by Phil Leach

Hi Larry, I was using a bush hog; stopped for a minute; went to start up again and no pto? The lever felt funny,so looked in the inspection port under the tractor and found that the clutch plates had come out of the housing. Got them back in; but if you moved the lever too far forward allowing the spider to travel to the end of the shaft, the plates would start to come out again. Is there something to keep the spider from this far forward? Has something broke or just come off? As long as it is engaged works fine.No problems or noises? Thanks again for taking my call about the scam. Phil

Re(1): PTO 1959 550

IP: 209.206.129.16 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 12:44:33 PM by Phil

Sorry Larry, got my parts mixed up. Its the pto clutch and hub that travel too far forward allowing the plates to fall out; not the spider.

Re(2): PTO 1959 550

IP: 67.2.242.30 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 11:55:03 PM by Larry Harsin

That hub is secured with a set screw. I have a feeling that that set screw has backed out and allowed the assembly to slide forward off of the shaft. To correct this, I think you will have to split the tractor and take that clutch apart and go in an get that set screw secured again. On some of those, the set screw went in first and then another set screw went in to lock it. Larry

Re(1): PTO 1959 550

IP: 4.250.171.155 Posted on July 13, 2004 at 03:31:10 PM by Mike B

Phil, Be aware that the set screw has a special "dog tooth" point which is a truncated cone on the end. I recall reading somewhere (perhaps a service bulletin) that this type must be used or it will come lose again. I've only rebuilt the 550 PTO after a split like Larry says so I can't advise if it's possible to do in the frame. Look at the exploded diagrams and I&T for ideas. Hope this helps. Mike

Re(2): PTO 1959 550

IP: 209.206.129.46 Posted on July 16, 2004 at 11:17:11 AM by Phil

Thanks Larry and Mike. Did'nt have to split tractor. Made sure I had the right set screw and locktite. Phil

1755 oliver pto speed

IP: 216.74.205.121 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 09:45:17 AM by gary carson

dear mr harsin i have a 1755 oliver that has a pto speed of 540 rpm and would like to change it to 1000 rpm so could pull bush hog with it could you tell me how to go about doing this if you please and thank you yours truly gary

Re(1): 1755 oliver pto speed

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 11:19:31 AM by Ron

Any AGCO dealer can sell you a kit (shaft and other parts).

Re(2): 1755 oliver pto speed

IP: 67.2.242.30 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 11:49:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have what you need to do this. Larry

axle housing

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on July 10, 2004 at 07:07:43 PM by butch coulter

the super 55 that i have has had a broken axle housing if you setting on the seat it will be on the left side it has been fixed but i would like to find one and change it out. also how hard is it to change looking at the manual it looks pretty easy put you know how those trick photo are

Re(1): axle housing

IP: 67.2.249.111 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 00:37:57 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can't remove the snap ring from the bull gear through the hole in the hole in the housing for the PTO, then the hydraulic unit has to come off of the final drive housing. To find one, check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Tim Smith. Email him: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

880 three point and carb

IP: 24.217.25.252 Posted on July 10, 2004 at 03:54:41 PM by Marty

Hi Larry, Thanks for the advice on the three point hitch from Saginaw Co. Tractor Parts 810-638-5787. I purchased one and they shiped it the next day. It is a heavy duty great looking hitch and a simple job to install and hook up the hoses. I am still having problems with the tractor sputtering under a load. I have been through the carb twice and cleaned tank settlement bowl. When the governor kicks in it spits and coughs. It has a Zenith carb and not sure of the numbers. Should I start by getting a new carb? Help. Thanks Marty

Re(1): 880 three point and carb

IP: 67.2.249.111 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 00:30:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I've gone through those Zeniths and sometimes they will do that. You may have to just get another carb off of a different tractor, such as from a 1600 or a 1650. I believe one from a 1650 might work better. You can get a decent price on one through Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. When you order it, have the understanding with them, that if it doesn't work, you can send it back. Some of those Zenith's just don't work very good, even though most of the time, they work fine. Larry

Re(2): 880 three point and carb

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 11:28:23 AM by Ron

Sputtering under load might be as simple as a governor or carb screw adjustmemt. It might also be low compression or anything wrong in the ignition system, especially bad points or too wide a plug gap. If you actually rebuilt the carb using a decent kit and the carb has not been damaged or modified, a new one isn't going to help.

1650 Hydraulics

IP: 69.66.85.82 Posted on July 10, 2004 at 02:10:34 PM by MJ

I have a 1650 with a new hydraulic pump in it. I need to use it to lift round bales. It won't lift them with the loader or 3 point. I have a friend with a 1600, 1650, and 1655 and they all lift the same bales fine. What is wrong with my tractor? I have already adjusted the screw on the right side of the pump housing below the seat.

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.111 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 00:24:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Compare your operating pressure with that on those other tractors, and set yours accordingly. It may need some shims on the relief valve on the right side. Here in our area, some of these new balers are making the bales so big that a 1650 or a 1655 can't handle them. Be aware that this could be the problem. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 11, 2004 at 11:22:05 AM by Ron

My 1650 lifts 1,500 lb bales with ease. Look in your Operator's Manual. There are 3 adjustments that need to be made.

Re(3): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 216.159.100.3 Posted on August 2, 2004 at 04:59:06 PM by MJ

What are these three adjustments and can you easily explain to me how to shim the relief valve?

Re(4): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.30 Posted on August 4, 2004 at 05:44:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Did you check the pressure? If the pressure is lower than 1800 lbs., you will have to add shims at the relief valve. Unscrew the cap on the relief valve and you will see where the shims go. You should have 2000 lbs. Add shims until you get this. Larry

1900 running rpm

IP: 154.20.248.5 Posted on July 9, 2004 at 00:05:09 AM by Wes Babcock

I have recently purchased a 1900 Oliver with a Detroit Jimmy in it, I am unfamiliar with the engine and am looking for specs on HP and Operating RPM...

Re(1): 1900 running rpm

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on July 9, 2004 at 06:11:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Most of the 1900's were set up to run approx. 2200 rpm. They were rated 100 HP. When Oliver began producing the 1950, they put on a 4 valve cylinder head and speeded them up another 250 rpms. Then they produced 105 HP. (Same engine with improved cylinder head so it could breathe better.) Larry

Re(2): 1900 running rpm

IP: 68.47.35.8 Posted on July 9, 2004 at 07:39:23 AM by David H

Hey guys, I have a 1900 too and I'm going through the head change now. The head isn't the only difference. The cam and liners are also different. I thought I could get away with changing the head only. I got the detroit dealer involved with mine. Hope this avoids some dissappointment.

Oliver 1450 Clutch

IP: 67.95.169.90 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 12:52:08 PM by John

Do you have any suggestions on where I might find a clutch for an Oliver 1450.

Re(1): Oliver 1450 Clutch

IP: 67.2.242.22 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 08:52:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rick's Agri-Parts: www.ricksagriparts.com Phone: 866-264-9720 OR Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1450 Clutch

IP: 65.6.36.222 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 10:44:49 PM by George Steadman

Clutch and Brake supply in Johnson City, Tn rebuilt one for us a couple of years ago

Re(2): Oliver 1450 Clutch

IP: 67.95.169.90 Posted on July 8, 2004 at 02:18:12 PM by John

Thanks, I'll try them

1655 Vibration

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 09:06:52 AM by Chuck

I just started to notice a vibration the other day. It happened to me in second gear in the field and I shifted down to direct and it went away. When I left the field it did it all the way home in road gear. It always would go away by letting off the throttle or downshifting the over/under. I ran it last night about 4 miles down the road and didn't notice anything until I was just about there. It is a pretty severe vibration and I can't find anything loose externally. All the fluids appear to be full and were changed 40 hours ago. Any thoughts?

Re(1): 1655 Vibration

IP: 67.2.242.22 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 08:49:09 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be in the chain coupling and the sprockets where the hydraul connects to the transmission. Larry

Re(1): 1655 Vibration

IP: 69.179.21.81 Posted on July 7, 2004 at 09:40:42 PM by Ron

If it only happens in "over" and not direct or "under" then it's likely a sprag in the Hydraul-Shift. You need a service manual to diagnose and fix it.

Re(2): 1655 Vibration

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on July 8, 2004 at 09:28:30 AM by Chuck

I changed the over/under fluid last night and didn't see anything odd at all. I strained it with a paint strainer. I replaced the coupler chain last winter and did notice wear on the sprockets. Can the sprockets be changed without pulling the motor?

Re(3): 1655 Vibration

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on July 9, 2004 at 06:13:43 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You have to pull the motor. Larry

oliver 70 engine overhaul

IP: 4.164.228.141 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 10:44:21 PM by Tom

I have a 1944 Oliver 70 tractor that we bought awhile back and we tore the engine down to see how it looked inside. We found a bad liner o-ring on #1 cylinder and also found some cracks between #4,5&6 holes in the block. Someone has tried to JB weld these cracks and as far as I know, it was working ok. Is it common for these engines to have these cracks? Can I still get parts(gaskets, o-rings bearings etc.) for our tractor? The tractor is in pretty good shape and we would like to refurbish it if we can get parts for it. We live in Wyoming and there aren't any Oliver parts dealers around. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): oliver 70 engine overhaul

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 11:10:34 PM by Larry Harsin

It is not uncommon to have the cracks on the top deck between the sleeves. However, before I would invest a lot of time and money, I would search for a block that is not cracked. Those parts are available. I would reccommend you get your gasket set from Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 or Fel-Pro brand from T.H. E. Co. 800-634-4885 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): oliver 70 engine overhaul

IP: 68.162.186.208 Posted on July 15, 2004 at 08:47:29 AM by Paul

I have a block that was run out of oil and locked up. It has no cracks if you are interestid call me @ 412-779-3047. Paul

1650 skipping, running rough backfiring

IP: 148.64.156.242 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 03:51:43 PM by C. R. Wolfe

Went to drive my 1650 gas today. Running rough, needs choke, if i put in gear, tends to stall. Seems to skip and backfire. We have had some rain, could this be rain in fuel? What diagnostics and or treatment recommended? Thanks Cwolfe

Re(1): 1650 skipping, running rough backfiring

IP: 69.179.10.60 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 05:34:16 PM by Ron

When is the last time you checked/replaced the points?

Re(2): 1650 skipping, running rough backfiring

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 11:03:18 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be for moisture in the distributor cap. Larry

Re(1): 1650 skipping, running rough backfiring

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on July 17, 2004 at 09:44:56 PM by julmer

If the electrical repairs and drying the distributor did not solve it, be sure fuel filters are clean and try putting some gas treatment (with alcohol) which will absorb and run water through. We have had condensation in real wet weather put water in the tank and give similiar results. Water in a paper or screen can stop fuel flow and the missing is like when you run out of gas.

DavidBrown/Oliver

IP: 24.198.4.61 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 02:08:01 PM by Herb

Greetings! Below is the information on my tractor: Serial# 100875 D Spec# VAD/2/OA DAVID BROWN Stamped ON ENGINE BLOCK I bought a manual for a 500 Oliver and the part #'s start with 680-681. Checked numerous web sites and the serial # I have ,do not match any Oliver. I know this: 1)serial # and spec # are correct. 2)David Brown's name is embossed on the engine block. 3)I am cleaning the fuel lines and found green paint,underneath yellow paint. Most folks tell me it's an Oliver 500 and some say it's a David Brown 900 series. BTW-the serial and spec #s' were found on a plate near the right side of the driver's seat,stating Oliver USA. As I am dismantling some parts and removing grease,oil,etc.,I find made in England. Thoughts,opinions? regards, Herb

Re(1): DavidBrown/Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 11:01:13 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has and Oliver plate on the side, it is an Oliver 500. That is the only model of Oliver that David Brown built. They were built in England for Oliver. Your serial number shows that your tractor was built in 1961. You may be interested in checking this website out: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry

Wiring Diagram

IP: 64.122.67.146 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 12:42:09 PM by Bud Flagstad

Just picked up a Row Planter. The wiring harness was burned up. The voltage regulator has 3 posts. field, Bat and L. The field goes to the generator The bat goes to the ampmeter. Where does the L go. I has to get to the armauture some how but I think it went to the switch first. Need a diagram. Help- Thanks

Re(1): Wiring Diagram

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 10:51:40 PM by Larry Harsin

L. goes to the light switch. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net. It will have the wiring diagram in it. Larry

77 Rod Bolts

IP: 216.93.103.205 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 08:26:49 AM by Kris

I am looking for a set of rod bolts for a 77 Gas. Are these still available from AGCO or are there any other applications that will work? Thanks, Kris

Re(1): 77 Rod Bolts

IP: 67.2.248.193 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 08:34:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would think they would be available from AGCO. If you don't have a dealer to call, call Tom at O'Brien Co Imple. He will have them. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver500 or David Brown 780

IP: 209.198.27.130 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 00:15:46 AM by Jim Edwards

I have just purchased what I thought was an Oliver 500. upon closer inspection, it has David Brown on the 4cyl diesel engine, and a placard on the left fender which say the Model is a 780, it has a 3 speed trans w/ high,low range.. How can I tell what I have? Bought it cheap at an estate sale. Thanks, Jim

Re(1): Oliver500 or David Brown 780

IP: 67.2.248.193 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 08:29:59 AM by Larry Harsin

Your Oliver 500 was built in England by David Brown. They built some tractors for Oliver from 1960 - 1963. The 500 was built both gas and diesel. They had a 6 speed trans and weighed 3800 lbs. If you want to email your serial number to us, we can tell you the year yours was built. Now, with all that said, you still could have just a David Brown that someone painted green You may be interested in checking out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html This is Danny Bowes and he lives in Ontario Canada. Larry

specification number

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on July 4, 2004 at 06:40:30 PM by butch coulter

i hate to sound real dumb but i have a super 55 i found out it was a 1957 after getting my manual. but was does the specification number mean on the plate it shows 25-0007 in the IT manual it does not show that.

Re(1): specification number

IP: 67.2.248.2 Posted on July 5, 2004 at 00:22:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The spec. number actually was a code that told how the tractor was set up with wheel equipment and the gearing and other optional accessories. If you want this information for your tractor, at the Museum in Charles City, they have the "Build Card" for your tractor. For a fee, they will look it up for you. The "Build Card" is an old style computer punch card that went along with the tractor as it was being built and each item was punched into the card. It even tells what dealership the tractor was originally shipped to. To have them look up your "Build Card" they have to know the serial number. You can email them at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): specification number

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on July 5, 2004 at 05:02:15 PM by butch coulter

thank you i will be doing that again this is my first tractor and i'm trying to find out everything i can about it you have a great site i work afternoon shift and the first thing i do is get on the internet and pull your site up it is on the top of my list. again thank you

Re(3): specification number

IP: 67.2.248.193 Posted on July 6, 2004 at 08:41:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I should have told you also that you can get Manuals for your tractor from the Museum, too, if you need them. Thank you for your compliments. Larry and I enjoy this website and hearing from all of the Oliver People. We enjoy being able to help in your restorations. Sandra

super 66 year?

IP: 216.46.146.1 Posted on July 4, 2004 at 04:18:31 PM by Geoff

I have a oliver super 66 with serial number 39 540-606 and I am curious as to what year it is.

Re(1): super 66 year?

IP: 67.2.248.2 Posted on July 5, 2004 at 00:14:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Your S66 was built in 1956. Larry

Implements

IP: 69.9.222.199 Posted on July 2, 2004 at 01:11:06 PM by Scott Aune

Do you know where I might find info on old mowers that are I'm guessing 1940's vintage. I don't know who made it, but it has Case guards on it and the part that broke has a number cast in it that starts with MTB and I think 3 numbers like 276. It is green, but not a John Deere. I can't seem to find anything on the web. And what's the sense of having a vintage tractor without something vintage to pull behind it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Implements

IP: 67.2.242.62 Posted on July 2, 2004 at 11:58:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Farm Collector magazine has a page called, "What-Is-It?" I suggest that you ask them. Send photos of the item to email: editor@farmcollector.com Photos of submitted items should be taken in a well-lighted area against a plain background if possible and received by Farm Collector by the 22nd of each month. Regular mail address to send pictures is: Farm Collector, 1503 S.W. 42nd St., Topeka KS 66609 Larry

1755 high speed

IP: 64.12.116.14 Posted on June 30, 2004 at 11:29:59 PM by Chad

Larry, I was told you can tell if a 1655 or 1755 has the high spead by the gear pattern. If this is true, can you tell me what gear pattern to look for? Thanks, Appreciate your dedication to and knowledge of Olivers.

Re(1): 1755 high speed

IP: 67.2.248.183 Posted on July 1, 2004 at 08:27:08 AM by Larry Harsin

That statement is false. The gear pattern in each model is the same, whether they are high speed or not. Both those models with the regular transmission speeds, travel approx. 15 - 18 mph in road gear. If they are high speed transmissions, they will travel approx. 18 - 23 mph in road gear, depending on tire size etc. The 3 digits at the end of the serial number on these tractors, was supposed to tell what the gearing was in these models. I do not have these codes. The Museum at Charles City has the Build Card for each Oliver built. This card tells what was put into each tractor as it was being built. They also tell what dealership the tractor was shipped to when it was new. If you send your serial number to Mary Ann Townsend, for a fee, I believe they will look up your build card for you. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. They just found these Build Cards this winter. What a great find!! Larry

power steering

IP: 148.177.1.212 Posted on June 29, 2004 at 08:56:02 AM by Joseph Kentoffio

Hello Larry: I have a 1955 Super 88 diesel. It has manual steering, but I believe power steering was an option. Are parts available to convert to power steering and, if so, do you know where I can get them? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Re(1): power steering

IP: 67.2.248.137 Posted on June 30, 2004 at 09:57:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I would reccommend a Char-Lynn after market power steering unit for your tractor. I may have one of those. If you are interested in it, email me or call me: 712-362-2966. Larry

S55 Hydraulic pump

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:19:22 PM by Larry

I have a similar problem to the previouos writer. My 3 point will not lift much when the oil is warm. I am going to get a high pressure oil gage to test the pump pressure. 1. How hard is it to rebuild a Vickers 12 vane pump? 2. What is the approximate cost for parts and to have the pump professionally rebuilt this type of project?

Re(1): S55 Hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:42:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Your pump may be worn out. To repair a Vickers, you buy a repair pkg. from your AGCO Dealer. I don't know the price as I havn't done one lately. I don't know what it would cost to have a mechanic do this. If it were me, labor and parts could run as high as $1000. Parts have gone up tremendously lately. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will tell you the cost of the parts and the cost to have their shop do it. Larry

Hydraulic Units

IP: 209.103.235.61 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 10:17:58 PM by Jason Scholten

Larry, I have the chance to pick up a hydraulic unit off of an 880 for a reasonable price. Will that unit fit a 77 Standard? If so, what do I need to get with the unit to do the conversion? Any trouble areas that I should be aware of, or things I should look for with the new hydro unit? Also, the unit I'm looking at is a Hydro-letric style. Will that unit function with the levers if the electric part is not hooked up? Thanks Larry, Jason

Re(1): Hydraulic Units

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:29:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will fit. The complete unit will fit right in to a 77 Standard, no conversions. Make sure that the little rubber boots on the levers are good. I would ask the person whom I am buying the unit from, if the oil stayed in the unit o.k. Otherwise, I would tear the pump apart and put new seals and bearings in it if needed. Also, I would install a new filter while I am doing this. Yes, that Hydro-lectric style will work fine even if the electric part is not hooked up. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic Units

IP: 209.103.235.61 Posted on June 29, 2004 at 05:18:37 PM by Jason S.

Thanks Larry! Are the seals and bearings currently available for the pump? If its not a big deal, and the parts are readily available, I would consider doing it anyway, while the unit is still off the tractor as a preventative thing. Thanks again, Jason

Re(3): Hydraulic Units

IP: 216.106.56.101 Posted on June 29, 2004 at 11:06:02 PM by Jason Epperson

Just a thought. If your tractor did not have hydraulics on it before, you will have to change the input shaft in the transmission. The one for power lift tractors are longer.

Re(4): Hydraulic Units

IP: 209.103.235.61 Posted on June 30, 2004 at 09:07:57 AM by Jason Scholten

Does that involve tearing the tractor appart? Also, my tractor didn't have anything on it before, hydraulics or power lift, does that make a difference?

Re(5): Hydraulic Units

IP: 216.106.56.48 Posted on June 30, 2004 at 09:42:54 PM by Jason Epperson

I am not sure what input shaft it would have if it didn't have any kind of lift at all. If you have to change shafts you will have to remove the PTO shaft, top cover of the transmission, belt pulley assembly if it has one, and take the input shaft out. It would be best if you had a service manual to go by. It would have alot more detailed info than I have.

Re(6): Hydraulic Units

IP: 67.2.248.137 Posted on June 30, 2004 at 10:02:45 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a chance that it may have the short shaft in it, but it could be either way. If it doesn't have the long shaft sticking, you can just go ahead and install the hydraulic unit after you remove the PTO shaft. If it does have the long shaft, you will have to take it out and have the shaft cut off. Larry

Re(7): Hydraulic Units

IP: 209.103.235.61 Posted on July 1, 2004 at 11:44:08 AM by jason scholten

Now the guy says that the hydro pump dosen't come with it, only the tank and valves. Any idea what a new pump would cost, and how much the tank and valve assy. is worth? Thanks again for the help, Jason

Re(8): Hydraulic Units

IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on July 1, 2004 at 11:30:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Around here, the tank and valve assembly is approx. $125 and the pump with new seals and bearings is approx. $400. Larry

Web Counters