Super 55 transmission oil

IP: 75.69.28.202 Posted on July 31, 2007 at 06:19:12 AM by Reed von Gal

The manual sayes to "fill the transmission and final drive compartments with 5 gallons of seasonal grade transmission oil" I wonder what oil would be appropriate in Vermont for temperatures from 0-90 F To me transmission oil is gear oil and tractor transmission oil is generally tractor hydraulic but this has a seperate hydraulic system that calls for motor oil. I am not sure what they mean by transmission oil.

Re(1): Super 55 transmission oil

IP: 4.158.84.88 Posted on July 31, 2007 at 08:33:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Use 80-90 gear oil in the transmission. In the hydraulic system you can use 10-30 motor oil or a med. hydraulic fluid. Larry

white 244LL

IP: 64.122.87.191 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 10:54:22 PM by k. ryan

white 244/oliver 550 industrial. the lever for the 3 point hitch was working fine, then was hard to move, now does not move at all. any ideas?

Re(1): white 244LL

IP: 4.252.24.128 Posted on July 28, 2007 at 05:13:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I imagine that the shaft has siezed in the housing it passes through. You'll have to take it apart. You might try heating it with a torch and see if that will loosen it. Larry

old oliver literature

IP: 76.85.136.172 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 07:52:18 PM by Dianne Ihde

My father was an Oliver dealer in Seward, Ne for over 30 years. He has since passed away and we have found some sales manuals that he had when was in business. We also found a flag white or creme in color with the oliver logo on it. Are these worth anything?

Re(1): old oliver literature

IP: 4.158.84.131 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 09:58:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they are. What they are worth, is anybodies guess. You could check with Kurt Aumann at Witt, IL. Kurt does a lot of Oliver auctions (and antique auctions). His website is: www.Aumannauctions.com Larry

Re(2): old oliver literature

IP: 70.69.83.104 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 11:22:51 PM by Super 55

It's amazing to me that after all of these years that Oliver items are still popping up undiscovered.

Re(3): old oliver literature

IP: 4.252.24.128 Posted on July 28, 2007 at 05:19:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Many times old Oliver Dealers and others, have these things in closets, etc, and are forgotten. And then they are found when they pass away. Sandra

Is this PTO hub still usable

IP: 70.69.83.104 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 01:32:42 PM by Super 55

Hello, when cleaning up my pto assembly I noticed the hub had some chipping along one of the slots. I have included a picture with a good slot on the left and the damaged slot on the right. Is this normal wear and tear, or does it need to be replaced?

Re(1): Is this PTO hub still usable

IP: 4.158.84.131 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 09:53:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure, but I would think it would still be usable. Larry

Re(2): Is this PTO hub still usable

IP: 70.69.83.104 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 11:21:02 PM by Super 55

Larry, I heard from someone that had seen several pto hubs from Super 55 and says they all look like that. I just wanted to make sure as long as I had it apart. Hope you are having a good summer.

1600 oliver

IP: 69.92.156.17 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 09:41:13 AM by Tom Eastman

Hello, I have 1600 and last winter when I set the last bail into the field, I lost power to the front end loader and the engine pulled down. I am told there may be a chain that drive that powers the hydraulics. Can you share any ideas

Re(1): 1600 oliver

IP: 4.158.84.131 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 09:50:35 PM by Larry Harsin

It might be that you pump began to sieze. Some pumps had a chain coupling if they were driven off the front of the crankshaft. Larry

Oliver 88WT

IP: 66.102.76.49 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 12:41:44 PM by Chris Van

I am trying to do some research on this model 88 industrial, called an 88WT (hydro-trencher and swing loader combination). Floyd County do not seem to have anything specific for this model. So that gives me some concern about finding a parts and shop manual that covers it. I wonder if it is an 88 or a Super 88 too. I am thinking very seriously about buying this next week. Many thanks for any thoughts you may have...Chris

Re(1): Oliver 88WT

IP: 72.152.165.14 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 09:14:44 PM by charles rutland

Chris:If it runs and works,buy it if is affordable.A lot of collectors,myself included,would like have it. look at type of engine cover was used I believe all Supers used small covers that allowed easy access to engine.hinged on top and bolted to frame on bottom. Good luck:

Re(2): Oliver 88WT

IP: 4.252.27.80 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 10:03:53 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a rare piece. I saw one at a show once. I believe it was a straight fleetline 88. The WT would be for the trencher attachment, which is probably something other than Oliver. This may be why Charles City doesn't have info on it. Check with Sherry Shaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Re(3): Oliver 88WT

IP: 66.102.76.16 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 08:52:23 PM by Chris Van der Vyver

Hi Charles, Do you want me to ship it to you? It is fully operational but I am sure it could do with some TLC - $5,000 should cover it ;-) I have now seen one 88-WT brochure (from Floyd Co. by fax - subtitled 'with new dual-circuit control for the industrial 88') and it has some photos of a model with side panels and some without....

Re(4): Oliver 88WT

IP: 66.102.74.122 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 03:31:51 PM by Chris Van der Vyver

Funnily enough, Maryanne at Floyd Co. got back to me, having found a bunch of literature which I have purchased as copies. And that trencher was made by Ware (WT = Ware trencher) and Maryanne has a manual for that too! Excellent. I have seen a photo of a Ford using the same trencher. I will tell you more when I get it. Thank you both for your feedback.

Re(5): Oliver 88WT

IP: 4.158.84.131 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 09:47:43 PM by Larry Harsin

We can give you some more help.....Ware Machine Works is still in business! Address: P.O.Box 390, E. Main St., Ware MA 01082. Phone 413-967-6291. Website: www.waremachineworks.com Email: waremachinewks@cs.com Larry and Sandra

Re(6): Oliver 88WT

IP: 67.58.227.188 Posted on July 31, 2007 at 04:44:32 PM by Sherry Schaefer

At our show this past weekend we had an 88WT show up that was completely restored and it was NICE. In the October/November issue of Oliver Heritage we are going to do a feature story on the Ware trencher models so you'll be able to read all about it. I do have several pieces of sales literature on it if you're needing anything additional for it.

88 GOVERNORS

IP: 74.224.20.214 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 05:53:04 AM by C RUTLAND

GOVERNORS WILL NOT LET ENGINE IDLE AT LESS THAN 1\4 THROTTLE CONTROL ROD IS NOT OBSTRUCTED THIS ON GAS ENGINE HOW DO I CORRECT THIS TRACTOR WAS NOT USED FOR A WHILE WHEN I CRANKED IT THE PROBLEM SHOWED UP RUT.

Re(1): 88 GOVERNORS

IP: 4.252.27.80 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 09:56:42 PM by Larry Harsin

It might just be that the bumper screw is turned in too far. If you have an Operator's Manual, it gives info about the correct adjustments on that governor and the linkage. Larry

Welding new balls onto Super 55 stay rods.

IP: 70.69.83.104 Posted on July 25, 2007 at 11:28:19 PM by Super 55

Is it possible to weld new balls onto the stay rods for a Super 55. If so, anyone have a supplier?

Re(1): Welding new balls onto Super 55 stay rods.

IP: 4.254.116.148 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 05:26:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I suppose it is possible if you find a supplier. You could check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): Welding new balls onto Super 55 stay rods.

IP: 70.69.83.104 Posted on July 27, 2007 at 01:29:58 PM by Super 55

Larry, I found a pair of good stays from Kent Gordon in Texas. He parts out lots of Super 55s and 550s.

Cracks in 88 head valves

IP: 136.181.195.123 Posted on July 25, 2007 at 10:19:46 PM by Alan Wernette

My brother and I are restoring a 1954 88 diesel. We had to get a new block because it was cracked. Now after cleaning the head we see a fine crack at each intake valve opening. The cracks run out toward the injectors and are about 1 inch. # 2 valve opening in the head is cracked worse with some puckering out. Can we salvage this head? We heard that most 88 diesels had this problem with nothing to worry about? Is this true?

Re(1): Cracks in 88 head valves

IP: 4.254.116.148 Posted on July 26, 2007 at 05:24:47 AM by Larry Harsin

These cracks are common. Is there any evidence of anti-freeze getting into the combustion chambers and is there any evidence of compression getting into the water jacket? Also, if the cracks are getting close or are in the valve seat area, then the head is no longer usable. Larry

1650 Oliver Gas

IP: 208.247.100.130 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 07:27:06 PM by Chuck

1650 Gas when started and clutch depressed, then trying to shift out of a gear the lever moves hard as if the trans wants to stay in that gear. As the tractor warms up then the shifting is easier. Clutch seems to be fully disengaged. Fluid levels are normal.

Re(1): 1650 Oliver Gas

IP: 4.158.42.41 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 09:47:31 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have a stiff pilot bearing. You will have to pull the engine and replace the pilot bearing. Larry

Replacing a Regulator

IP: 64.6.5.38 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 05:53:41 PM by William

I have a 1954 Super 55 Oliver with a 6 Volt Positive Ground Regulator. Which terminals do you have to touch to polarize the regulator?

Re(1): Replacing a Regulator

IP: 4.158.42.41 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 09:45:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Take a jumper wire and hook to the battery terminal on the regulator and arc it on the armiture terminal on the generator. Larry

Oliver 770 engine swap

IP: 67.142.130.19 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 12:54:05 PM by Jeremy

Will a engine out of a 310ci. Waukesha Oliver 1850 fit in a Oliver 770? If so, what kind of modification would need yo be made?

Re(1): Oliver 770 engine swap

IP: 4.158.84.122 Posted on July 24, 2007 at 04:52:23 PM by Larry Harsin

It will be really involved and very expensive. I wouldn't recommend doing it. It would be more feasable to put it into an 880. Can you over-size the 770 engine? You could get sleeves and pistons from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681. Larry

1964 Oliver 1650 Gas wide front wheels.

IP: 12.216.67.161 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 08:57:40 PM by Chuck

On the road at speed the tractor needs constant steering first left and then right to correct drift. The linkage looks fairly good. Could it be the hyd steering cylinder, or could it be the steering wheel valving. It does not jerk like loose linkage and it does not steer hard. The drift is gentle from side to side and requires correction on a 15 to 20 second interval. Thanks.

Re(1): 1964 Oliver 1650 Gas wide front wheels.

IP: 4.158.84.95 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 10:08:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do, is check the Pitman arm and the Pitman shaft and see if they are tight. This is under the steering unit beneath the radiator. Also, check the "toe-in" on the front wheels. This is covered in the Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): 1964 Oliver 1650 Gas wide front wheels.

IP: 70.153.98.52 Posted on July 25, 2007 at 10:30:15 AM by George

We had to replace the hydra motor to correct this on our 1850 and a buddies 1850. The 1650 got one, then we rebuilt the old unit, this would be the last place I would exchange.

Auxilliary hydraulic valves on 1650 gas

IP: 12.216.67.161 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 08:52:49 PM by Chuck

1964 Oliver 1650 gas. The auxilliary valves on left side come directly from the casting with 3 ft long hoses to the dual valve holder. Since the hoses are long the cause a length and twisting problem. On the right side a 2 inch pipe fitting comes from the casting with a 90 degree elbow facing rear and then 3 feet of hydraulic hose to the dual valve holder. My question is: What is the proper hose setup and length for the auxilliary valves on each side? How much hose? Any pipe extensions? any elbows? A picture would be helpful. Thanks.

Re(1): Auxilliary hydraulic valves on 1650 gas

IP: 4.158.84.95 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 10:01:54 PM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Parts Manual from Charles City. I'm not sure what hydraulic unit you have, but the Parts Manual will show all of the different units in detail. Yours sounds like it might be a wheatland system. You can get the Manual from the Floyd Co. Historical Society email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

1950t steering

IP: 216.21.178.61 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 10:42:52 AM by tom smith

I popped one of the steering hoses up behind the dash and upon installing the new hose when I started it up the front wheels drifted to the left and stay there regardless of what i do with the steering wheel. Do I possibly need to bleed it somewhere or is the directional valve fubared.

Re(1): 1950t steering

IP: 4.158.84.95 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 09:57:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm suspicioning that maybe some dirt has gotten into the hydra-motor, when you had the hoses off. If it doesn't correct itself, after running it some, you may have to replace the hydra-motor. It should self correct and clean that dirt out , if you try to work it back and forth. If not, you have a problem. Larry

1755 Hydrolic oil loss

IP: 207.103.47.160 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 05:09:59 AM by Steve

Have a 1755 - seem to be loosing hydrolic oil - no external leaks. Final drive reservoir seems to be getting it. Where would it be entering the rear. ?

Re(1): 1755 Hydrolic oil loss

IP: 4.158.84.85 Posted on July 23, 2007 at 09:48:06 PM by Larry Harsin

The most common source of the problem is oil getting in through the PTO or the PTO brake. Plug those 2 small hydraulic lines that go to the PTO and see if that stops the leakage. If it does, the PTO will have to be removed from the tractor and re-sealed. Larry

1650 Gas carb.

IP: 66.241.187.220 Posted on July 21, 2007 at 11:36:16 PM by Lee Peterson

Hello.We are having problems with our 1650.Can you tell me where we can find the old style (steel) needle valve for the carb? the one that the agco dealer has we have had no luck with.the newer ones won't seem to hold and lets the carb flood itself. any help would be appreciated. thanks

Re(1): 1650 Gas carb.

IP: 67.2.242.110 Posted on July 22, 2007 at 07:20:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I was told by my local Case/IH Dealer, that they have better luck with float valves from Valu-Bilt. 888-828-3276. I'm not sure you can even buy the old style anymore. Check with Valu-Bilt. Larry

1969 Oliver model 1655 IP: 65.102.255.27 Posted on July 21, 2007 at 08:53:58 AM by Atticus Duck

Hi Larry, I am thinking of buying a 1969 Oliver model 1655. The owner says it runs great. It comes with a Himaster hay fork and front end loader. We are cose to a price of $6,000. Do you think that is a fair price? Could you tell me what the weak and strong points are of this particular machine/model is?

Re(1): 1969 Oliver model 1655

IP: 67.2.249.237 Posted on July 21, 2007 at 09:26:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I think that is a fair price. I feel that the 1655 is an all around good tractor with no specific problems. Larry

Re(2): 1969 Oliver model 1655

IP: 63.224.92.205 Posted on July 22, 2007 at 11:36:46 AM by Atticus Duck

Thanks for your time Larry. I'm going to buy it and join the Oliver Family!

HG 42 Cletrac tranny

IP: 70.77.153.89 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 10:10:11 PM by Bill Bailey

Greetings from B.C. Canada. I have a crawler that runs well however I am unable to get the shifter to place the tranny in reverse. It feels like it should go back a bit further and then slip in. I suspect worn shifting forks. Is it difficult to take the shifting forks out?? thanks. Bill

Re(1): HG 42 Cletrac tranny

IP: 67.2.249.122 Posted on July 19, 2007 at 05:58:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I havn't worked on many of the crawlers. Contact Zimmerman Cletrac in Ephrata PA. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Email: zoc@att.net Another place that is closer to you is Bechthold Tractor Service in Lodi California 209-365-1500. Email: trim-n-prun@softcom.net Larry

Steering Play

IP: 68.213.79.191 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 09:12:25 AM by Matt Glaser

Hi Larry, We just finished restoring a 1966 Oliver 1850 gas with an adjustable wide front end. We're getting alot of play in the front end when in road gear. We tried correcting it by turning the wheel left to right fully to release any air in the lines like the manual suggested, but haven't had any luck yet. We diden't know if you would have any different ideas.

Re(1): Steering Play

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 04:59:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that your pitman arm may be loose on the pitman shaft. Also, the sector gear could be loose on the pitman shaft. Larry

1655

IP: 159.182.1.4 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 04:20:47 AM by mark

Larry, I have a 1655 that I want to change hyd.oil and filter. I pumped the old oil out a remote, is this sufficient or is there a drain plug as well? Just want to make sure that I get all the old oil out.

Re(1): 1655

IP: 205.245.254.70 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 07:01:33 AM by Jeff Schneider

On my 1800, the oil is drained just as you described. I did have a plug on the left side of my rockshaft casting that could be used to drain the oil but I found by pumping it out I scavanged approx 90% of it. When I removed my top cover to get at the servo valve there wasn't that much left and it was in the low part of the pan that removing the "drain" plug wouldn't have made any difference (I used a suction gun to get that out as I was removing my entire housing and I didn't want to risk contaminating the fresh gear oil in the transmission and rear end). Unless you have some sort of contamination (metal) I would think pumping it out until fluid no longer flows from the hose is sufficient.

Re(2): 1655

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 04:58:05 PM by Larry Harsin

That's the way I do it. Larry

fleetline 77

IP: 4.188.209.100 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 09:05:11 PM by Bob

I was told to make sure to seal head bolt threads that are in the water jacket area of the head, but I don't see any that are. Is this right or wrong?

Re(1): fleetline 77

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 10:04:22 PM by Larry Harsin

It is not mandatory on a 77. What I would suggest is to run a 1/2" thread tap in all of the head bolt holes, so that the threads will be cleaned up good. Larry

water pump hose

IP: 68.112.145.128 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 08:28:13 PM by Jeremy

Thanks for the info on the head torque values for my 1850 gas oliver. My question is for the upper hose on the water pump that connects to the thermostat housing. It is a hose with an elbow with a spring and cap looking thing in it. My question is what is this and what does it do. My parts book doesn't show it. Should I leave it in there or take it out? It looks to me like it would block all water flow. Again thanks for your help.

Re(1): water pump hose

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 10:02:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the cap should be removed. It was surely put in there for a reason, but any that I have worked with do not have that blocked. Make sure the thermostat is in good shape. Larry

1850 oliver

IP: 71.61.224.63 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 11:33:11 AM by Eric Bowser

I just replaced the clutch in our tractor due to I thought was slipping. the clutch works like it should now. However the tractor still acts funny. when placed in gear requardless of reverse or forward ,underdrive or direct, it attempts to move but slips bad. the chain link is working so power is going to the transmission but not to the wheel I need ideas. of where the problem is.

Re(1): 1850 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.4 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 05:19:13 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a problem in your transmission. You might have a broken shift fork or something else that is worn or broken in the drive train. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Oliver

IP: 71.61.224.63 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 06:36:37 PM by eric

Hi Larry, Found my problem the rear hub wore off the guide alowing the axel to spin in the hub. Now to find a new hub.

1600 Oliver hydraulic

IP: 216.51.181.112 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 09:33:51 AM by Stan

What do I have to do to release the oil pressure on the hydraulic hoses when I want to connect the hose to my disc with out loosing any oil?

Re(1): 1600 Oliver hydraulic

IP: 67.2.249.4 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 05:17:18 PM by Larry Harsin

The best way is to get Pioneer Hydraulic Couplers that hook up under pressure. Your implement dealer or your farm supply store will have them. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Oliver hydraulic

IP: 69.26.20.134 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 08:33:23 PM by Bill Wagner

I had the same problem with my 1650 and the new Pioneer couplers solved the problem completely.

Oliver 60 engine

IP: 74.75.234.148 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 03:55:30 AM by Ron Grother

engine was stuck got it free. went to adjust vavles and one lifter is stuck . how can I free it up. Thanks Ron

Re(1): Oliver 60 engine

IP: 67.2.242.12 Posted on July 17, 2007 at 06:03:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Try gently tapping it back down and working with it. It should free up. Larry

1750 diesel coolant overflow

IP: 216.51.253.230 Posted on July 16, 2007 at 10:40:51 AM by Phil

I have a 1750 diesel that seems to be building excessive radiator pressure. There is no evidence of coolant in the crankcase, and it runs fine under load never running hot. But when I bring it to an idle, coolant begins to percolate out of the overflow hose. I have replaced the radiator cap and keep the coolant level slightly less than full, but I still am loosing coolant - only at an idle or engine shutdown - never under load. What tests can I run to isolate the problem? Thanks for the fine website and the wealth of information.

Re(1): 1750 diesel coolant overflow

IP: 67.2.249.153 Posted on July 16, 2007 at 07:00:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you may be running your radiator too full. Try running a bit less coolant and see if that help. Take out about a pint and a half. We enjoy the website and hearing from all of you Oliver Owners. Larry and Sandy

Tie rod ends

IP: 155.70.39.45 Posted on July 16, 2007 at 07:18:04 AM by dale atkinson

I live in south Louisiana and have a 1600 wheatland/riceland tractor, I am trying to find tie rod ends to fit my tractor, I can find row crop ends but not riceland,any suggestions?

Re(1): Tie rod ends

IP: 67.2.249.153 Posted on July 16, 2007 at 06:57:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to find some with his computer parts connections. Larry

1955 hyd. pump

IP: 206.251.26.95 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 07:22:26 PM by dan rode

I have a 1955 and after about 2hr of running the hyd. pump gets real hot.and it also leaks hyd. oil into the rearend. thanks. dan

Re(1): 1955 hyd. pump

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:36:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The leak may be the PTO. On that tractor the most common spot where leakage of hydraulic fluid occurs, is with the PTO. Remove the 2 hydraulic lines that go to the PTO and plug them. If the hydraulic level does not go down, that is probably where your leak is. As far as the hydraulic pump getting hot, check the different lines coming from the hydraulic unit, such as the steering line, or the line to the brakes, or the line to the control valves, feel them and see which is the hottest. Such as the line to the brakes being hot may mean a problem in the brake control valve, or if the line going to the hydraulic control valve is hot, possibly something in that control valve isn't right, etc. Make sure the 3 pt. hitch arms have free travel in the raised position. Larry

1850 gas head torque vaues

IP: 68.112.145.128 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 09:07:02 PM by Jeremy

Hi Larry, Thanks for all your previous help. I am taking the head off my 1850 gas tractor and taking it to a shop to be gone through. I have the shop manual, but it seems to be geared towards the diesel engine. Are the torque values for the head and manifolds the same on a gas and diesel. What are the torque values for the head and manifold. Are there any other suggestions before I tear into this. Again I am learning, sorry for the easy questions. Thanks for all your help, you are a blessing to all of us.

Re(1): 1850 gas head torque vaues

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:16:14 AM by Larry Harsin

They are not the same. The torque for the cylinder head on the gas is 130. The manifolds I just run them up snug, approx. 40 lbs. The setting for the valves is 15 on the intakes and 24 on the exhausts. I don't have any special suggestions. Larry

Oliver88?

IP: 24.77.215.74 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 02:47:30 PM by Mike

A friend has acquired two mystery oliver tractors. One running and the other for parts. I have tried to find the serial plate, no luck. The engine block is marked 190320 K100G. The rear axle K700A. Where should I be looking for the serial number. Is it an 88? Any idea what year? Thanking you in advance.

Re(1): Oliver88?

IP: 24.77.215.74 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 08:12:35 PM by mike

After crawling all over the two tractors, I finally found the serial number plates mounted on the right rear side in front of the axle under the floor. They are both Standard 88's the part one manufactured in 1949 serial number 823557 C88G and the working one appears to be the 6th 88 manufactured in 1950 serial number 824246 C88G. Thank you for being there.

Re(2): Oliver88?

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:12:12 AM by Larry Harsin

We've been gone on a tractor ride for a few days. Glad you found out what you needed to know. Larry

1855 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 205.208.227.46 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 02:20:38 PM by Greg Sherwood

I have an Oliver 1855 that is leaking hydraulic fluid between the engine and transmission. Fluid leads when the tractor is parked. It looks like the leak is coming from the tachometer cable. When I disconnected the cable I found a cone shaped gasket that has gotten hard. Could the leak be coming from the cable or is it probably something else?

Re(1): 1855 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:09:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't see how you could have hydraulic fluid coming out of your tach cable. If it is engine oil, there is a seal where the tach drive comes out of the engine and that may have to be replaced. Larry

Re(2): 1855 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 4.249.102.221 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 05:16:34 PM by Larry from md

You might be mistaking the speedometer cable for the tack cable. There is a seal in that one too. Sometimes the drive piece will crack and you have a leak with a good seal. If its hydraulic oil coming out, you would allso have a leak into the rear from the hydraulic system. Probably a leaking pump seal.

1600 gas to diesel

IP: 198.140.195.249 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 12:09:14 PM by Noel

Larry, I have that 1600 that is leaking ATF. The gas engine burns a lot of oil also, and I was wanting a diesel tractor. When I have the engine out to do the hydra-power, can I just replace it with a diesel out of a 1600 or 1650 or possibly others? Thanks,

Re(1): 1600 gas to diesel

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:05:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I would try to get a 1600 or a 1650 diesel engine to put in there. The radiator is the same, the fuel tanks are the same. You'll have to get all of the things that go with the engine, such as air cleaner, throttle linkage, fuel lines. The 1600 will be a better fit than the 1650. With a 1650, you will have to cut a hole in the hood as the exhaust comes out in a different place. It uses a dry air cleaner and that would be a problem. Larry

Oliver 77 Transmission noise

IP: 69.29.34.176 Posted on July 14, 2007 at 11:49:19 AM by Jon Williams

Hello, I was wondering about My 1953 Oliver 77 Tranny. I just serviced it and we were raking hay and started making a whining noise in all the forward gears. It hasn't lost fluid but My dad said it sounded like it was coming from the Top? It doesnt jump out of gear, just making a noise. Where should I start looking. Thanks Jon

Re(1): Oliver 77 Transmission noise

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 10:00:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the power lift or the hydraulic, so I could look in there. See if the bearings are o.k. on that top input shaft. See if you can detect anything else wrong. Take the drain plugs out of the transmission and see if you can find any filings or anything to indicate something wrong. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 69.222.208.2 Posted on July 13, 2007 at 11:04:58 AM by Ron

I'm building a super 88 with a small block chevy for the hotrod antique class. Can you tell what the ground speed is of each gear at factory rpm.

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 09:57:31 AM by Larry Harsin

On the Oliver S88 RC tractor (Waukesha engine), the ground speed for first gear is 2.5 mph, second gear is 3.2 mph, third gear is 4.3 mph, fourth is 5.5 mph, fifth is 6.8 mph, sixth is 11.8 mph. Larry

Help identify a tractor/backhoe

IP: 64.43.232.10 Posted on July 12, 2007 at 11:57:25 AM by John Wicker

I have a Oliver tractor/backhoe 47-7002 s/n: 142-253-714. I am looking for transmission parts, but need the model and year. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Re(1): Help identify a tractor/backhoe

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 09:51:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that you have a 770 built in 1964. This would have a 6 cylinder engine. If it is a 4 cylinder engine, it could be a 550 built in 1964. Larry

Oliver 314 Plows

IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on July 12, 2007 at 11:16:21 AM by Jeff

Are the 314 plows build on an A frame? Would they be compatible with my 1550?

Re(1): Oliver 314 Plows

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 09:45:27 AM by Larry Harsin

The 314 plows are mostly for category 1 hitch. The 1550 is a category 2. I believe I would favor getting a plow that is set up for a category 2 hitch. Larry

Oliver 520 knotter

IP: 205.245.255.247 Posted on July 12, 2007 at 03:11:17 AM by Jeff Schneider

Larry, I have an Oliver 520 baler. The twine is consistently hanging up in the billhook of the left knotter. The knife arm/sweep rubs the billhook and will extend the recommended 1/2" past the end of the hook. The knot is formed correctly and is swept off the hook. What gets hung up or stuck in the hook is the loose ends of the twine (there is about a 1/2" from where the knife cut it to the knot). This sometimes pulls free, but most times it'll break the string. I've tried adjusting the tension on the billhook, different bale tension, twine tension from the twine box, and recently twine disc tension. I've replaced the billhook with a new one from my AGCO dealer (guessing it to be a Hesston part) and double, triple checked the obvious. Nothing seems bent or worn connected to the billhook that I can see. I compared right and left side knife arms and they look identical (I'm assuming that they are not the originals as they are painted grey), but I admit I have yet to swap left with right (thats next) to eliminate that as the cause. They do have some free play side to side. Not sure if thats normal (my NH baler has some but not as much). The "ball" at the end of the knife arm shows no wear. I've tried the suggestions in my operators manual. I don't have a spring scale to set twine tension by, but I've made slight adjustments (loosening) and still seem to be spinning my wheels. When the baler works, it makes a consistent sized tight bale and I've got to much $$$ in it now to let it whip me. Any suggestions? It's a deering knotter, no different than my NH and it'll bale hundreds before it'll miss a tie and thats only when it's switching twine balls (because I have yet to perfect a knot that'll pass). I can provide a picture of the defect (I left the last knot hung on the hook).

Re(1): Oliver 520 knotter

IP: 67.2.248.246 Posted on July 15, 2007 at 09:43:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I would reccommend that you try sharpening the knife on the end of the twine arm and try to adjust the arm so that it rubs tighter onto the billhook, so that it will rub the knot off of the billhook. I know what you are talking about. I have had that problem before and tried to get to the bottom of it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 520 knotter

IP: 205.245.254.70 Posted on July 18, 2007 at 06:52:21 AM by Jeff Schneider

Both arms have new knives installed. Problem was there before installation of new blades and has continued after. I'll tweak the knife arm some more, but it's already rubbing the billhook without any gaps between (it's polishing the metal). The knot is stripped off, it's the ends of the twine past the knot that are getting caught. I'm going to try to bend the arm were it'll sweep further, although it's already going 1/2" past the end of the hook. I'll post back when/if I get it working. Thanks Larry. Regards, Jeff

Oliver 1365 Seat

IP: 72.254.53.44 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 07:25:42 PM by Randall

Where can I get a new seat for my 1975 Oliver 1365. Is it possible to get one made for it or will it have to be a universal seat?

Re(1): Oliver 1365 Seat

IP: 72.150.231.112 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 08:13:01 PM by George

Make the adaptor plate and install the universal seat. That was the cheapest and best option on ours.

Re(2): Oliver 1365 Seat

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 10:13:25 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a good answer for you. I don't know where you would find a 1365 seat, although, you could check with Maibach Tractor. They have some used parts for the Fiat Olivers. 800-808-9934 Larry

rear tires on super 55 oliver

IP: 66.140.232.41 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 05:29:58 PM by robert

I have a 1958 super 55 with spin outs eight lug I was wondering if i could get a set of ford rims and tires and put them on.

Re(1): rear tires on super 55 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 10:09:30 PM by Larry Harsin

If the bolt pattern is the same, it might work. Larry

1600 Hydra-power leak

IP: 69.27.50.34 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 04:16:40 PM by Noel

Larry, The leak in the hydrapower that I emailed you about a few days ago seems to be coming from the "spool" (?) that engages the unit and also from a allen screw in that spool unit. If I take that side piece off the hydra-power to put new seals in it, am I getting in over my head? How many seals are there to replace there?

Re(1): 1600 Hydra-power leak

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 10:08:05 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to pull the engine and the hydra-power out of the tractor, before you can fix the leaks. Then, you can remove the cover and replace the "O" rings that are leaking. On the control spool, you'll have to remove the allen screw pipe plug, to get the spring and ball out, so that the spool can be removed from the cover. There is one "O" ring (seal) on the control spool. If this unit does not have the hose that feeds the oil to the collector ring, there will be 2 more "O" rings to replace. If it does have the hose on there, there will be just one more "O" ring. If this hose is on the unit, it has had the change-over to be like the 50 series and this hose feeds pressurized oil into the collector ring (drive clutch). You should be able to do this. If this is where all of the leaks are, you will have it fixed. You must remember to pull the long PTO drive shaft from the rear of the tractor, before attempting to lift the engine and hydra-power assembly out. Larry

1650 power steering problem

IP: 204.180.222.216 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 08:32:18 AM by Paul

My father and I looked at a 1650 diesel over the weekend, the power steering was not working at all do you know what the possible cause could be and how much it may cost to repair it?

Re(1): 1650 power steering problem

IP: 67.2.240.164 Posted on July 11, 2007 at 02:41:53 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be one of several things. It could be an inoperative flow divider with a sticking spool, or it could be something broken or worn out, in the hydra-motor. There are other things too, that could be wrong. It could be as little as $0 to fix or as much as $600 to fix. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 67.54.211.25 Posted on July 10, 2007 at 03:53:20 PM by Dan

I am new to the oliver scene, and have purchased two model 70,s .I am looking for mainly engine parts ( an overhaul kit would be nice). Also what type of engine was put in these tractors? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.180 Posted on July 10, 2007 at 09:20:22 PM by Larry Harsin

They are Continental Overhead Valve 6 cylinder engines. I do have a few parts for these. You can email me if you need something. I don't have an overhaul kit. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1855 engine

IP: 64.250.199.69 Posted on July 9, 2007 at 08:40:57 PM by kevin

hi larry, i always enjoy your column and advise to others. i bought a 1855 rececently, and went to work stopping oil leaks, rewiring the electrical system, draining all fluids, changing filters and overall chasing the "shadetree/cobbler mechanic demons" from the whole tractor so i can actually use it in the field. the tractor seems to run overall pretty good, but the rod caps have 6 point bolts in them. a few years ago Duane Starr told me if i ever came across a 310 diesel with 6 point rod bolts, it didn't have the lower end updates done yet and to get it done before it had a scrap-iron fit. please advise me what to do so i don't have to explain to my wife the need to repower my proud purchase. thanks for any help. P.S. THE 1800 Gemmer Hydra-Guide you fixed for me still works great! (and doesn't leak anymore)

Re(1): 1855 engine

IP: 67.2.242.64 Posted on July 10, 2007 at 06:05:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't be real concerned about the rod bolts. I would be more concerned about the oil pressure when the engine is warmed up. With the engine warmed up, and at slow idle, I would not want to see less that 20 lbs. oil pressure. If the tractor was suffering from low oil pressure, I'd replace worn bearings and then put in the new style bolts. Glad to get the success report on the Gemmer. Larry

Oliver 1365

IP: 76.5.119.80 Posted on July 9, 2007 at 12:10:52 PM by John

I have a 1365. The steering is very sloppy (3/4 turn of the steering wheel). How hard is it to re-build the steering box and are parts still available?

Re(1): Oliver 1365

IP: 67.2.242.64 Posted on July 10, 2007 at 06:00:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done a steering box on a 1365. Check with Maibach Tractor Parts and see if the parts are available. They will be able to answer your questions. 800-808-9934.

Positive ground to negative ground

IP: 68.113.233.140 Posted on July 7, 2007 at 10:53:42 PM by Schimko

I just restored my 77 gas. I set it up with a 12 volt positive ground. I now want to go to an electronic ignition, but the only ones i can find are 12 volt negative ground. Can i just swap my battery cables around so that i have a negative ground or is there more to it than that?? Also do you or anybody know of a hotter plug i can run like a split fire or something equal to that(a spark plug number would help)?? Thanks

Re(1): Positive ground to negative ground

IP: 67.2.248.44 Posted on July 8, 2007 at 05:02:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you can get a 12 volt positive ground from T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885 or Denny's Carb Shop 937-368-2304. Swapping the battery cables around may work. You may have to reverse the wires on your ammeter also. I like the D16 Champion spark plug or a D21 Champion or it's equivalent might be o.k. Larry

Oliver engine

IP: 67.72.98.57 Posted on July 6, 2007 at 06:29:10 PM by Lloyd

I accquired a oliver diesel engine used to power a large sprayer. It is a six cylinder with sn 77-592-099, sepecifation #82-002. #'s on engine block 190320-k and ika100E Also 1229. On valve cover #'s190339 and 101384. Can you tell me any thing about this engine? I would like place it in Oliver 1800 A.

Re(1): Oliver engine

IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on July 6, 2007 at 11:02:20 PM by Larry Harsin

That is a S88 or 880 engine. It will work in an 1800 A. Larry

1650

IP: 64.209.148.121 Posted on July 6, 2007 at 04:42:23 AM by corre k

what is the big difference in the high speed and stanard speed rear ends I do a lot of traveling with mine and am interested in looking at a little more speed thankyou for any and all the help you have giving Corre k

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on July 6, 2007 at 10:54:08 PM by Larry Harsin

The difference is going to be about 7 or 8 mph in high gear. Also, the shift pattern is different. I have a complete high speed rear end assembly for sale. If you are interested, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

1600 leaking ATF

IP: 12.106.142.130 Posted on July 4, 2007 at 07:09:31 PM by Noel

Larry, I have a sizable puddle of ATF (Dextron) under the Hydra-power. Any tips on fixing this leak.

Re(1): 1600 leaking ATF

IP: 67.2.248.44 Posted on July 4, 2007 at 07:34:16 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a very serious leak, the hydra-power will have to be removed from the tractor, taken apart and resealed. If it isn't a serious leak, I would go ahead and use it and possibly do the repairs in the "off season". Larry

1800 hyd leak into trans

IP: 71.7.43.162 Posted on July 3, 2007 at 09:11:32 PM by CHIEF

I have a severe Hydraulic leak into the transmission so bad it leaks out the front input/coupler shaft seal before I open up my "Ollie" what should I be looking for?? I have all the manuals for her so I can see the same part you are describing.

Re(1): 1800 hyd leak into trans

IP: 67.2.249.145 Posted on July 3, 2007 at 10:01:02 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is the seal where the draft sensing rod goes down into the rear end. You can check it by removing the PTO assembly and observing whether oil is leaking there or not. The next place I would look is the pump drive shaft seal or a leak through the oil pan of the hydraulic unit. Larry

1850 Carburetor Issues

IP: 204.73.103.253 Posted on July 3, 2007 at 01:22:34 PM by Phil

Hello Larry, I have been having issues with my 1850 carburetor. Sometimes it will run fine for a while, then all of a sudden lose power and the only way I can keep the engine running and limp to the shed is by choking it, so it is not getting gas at times. This happens in cold weather as well as warm weather. I checked to make sure the fuel line is O.K and changed filter screens, etc. The local dealer says he will not touch the Marvel-Schebler carburetors because they are so finicky. Any ideas? I have had the carb apart several times looking for the problem. Are there any other subsitute carburetors that are more reliable? Thanks!

Re(1): 1850 Carburetor Issues

IP: 67.2.249.145 Posted on July 3, 2007 at 09:56:42 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a Zenith Carb available at your AGCO Dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You should also check your fuel supply pump. Larry

1600 PTO clutches?

IP: 12.106.142.130 Posted on July 2, 2007 at 06:41:06 PM by Noel

Larry, thanks for the site. I have a 1600 that the PTO will disengage if the bush hog gets into heavy material. I am assuming that the clutches are going bad. Am I on the right track? Thanks

Re(1): 1600 PTO clutches?

IP: 67.2.249.217 Posted on July 2, 2007 at 09:52:09 PM by Larry Harsin

There are shims in the clutch so you can adjust it. It may just need to have a few shims removed. When you get the cover removed, look for broken linkage in the clutch, or other problems. If everything is in place, I would remove 3 or 4 shims from each shim pack and try that. If you have an Operator's Manual, you can refer to that on adjusting the clutch. Larry

1465 hydraulics

IP: 69.71.182.240 Posted on July 2, 2007 at 08:44:00 AM by Shannon

I have a 1465 and trying to rake hay with it. The hydraulics are jerking and gradually lift the rake at high rpm's. I changed the oil and cleaned the filter going to the pump. The 3 pt raises but is jerky also. Are there other filters to clean? Any ideas on my problem? I just ordered manuals last night. What is the recommended hyd. oil? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): 1465 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.217 Posted on July 2, 2007 at 09:49:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not real familiar with the 1465. I suggest you read your manuals when they come. I think for hydraulic oil, a med hydraulic oil or automatic transmission fluid would work. There is also a universal tractor hydraulic fluid that is sold at some of the Farm Stores. That might be a good choice. Larry

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