1655 diesel

IP: 144.29.1.15 Posted on July 31, 2009 at 10:25:09 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I am told not to run this tractor without a thermostat,why? I'm reworking the cylinder head and discovered the thermostat is rusted to pieces. Got hay in the field and don't want to wait another week to get the thermostat.

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.105.52.33 Posted on August 1, 2009 at 05:50:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The water flow is not correct in the cylinder head if you do not have a thermostat in there. If you must go ahead and use the tractor, leave the old thermostat in there, even though it isn't working. Larry

1650 Power steering

IP: 65.87.45.102 Posted on July 30, 2009 at 09:11:44 PM by Paul Van Buren

My Dad,s 1967 1650 is getting hard to turn to the left. Turning slowly to the left is fine, but when you try to turn quickly to the left,there is a lot of resistance there.No problem turning right quickly. This is a problem when I am trying to back equipment into the shed!

Re(1): 1650 Power steering

IP: 75.104.189.199 Posted on July 31, 2009 at 05:51:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I would test the pressure at the flow divider and see what it is. (Get a gauge and install it on the flow divider) This problem is not uncommon and raising the pressure to the steering by adding shims to the relief valve on the flow divider, may help. One or two shims should make a difference. Otherwise, you may be faced with replacing your steering hydra-motor. Larry

Valves

IP: 173.86.152.248 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 07:50:21 AM by Randy Anderson

i had the head rebuilt on my 1952 oliver 66 rowcrop and i will get the valves set and getting timed and the next day the valves are out of wack and it runs like crap! do you know the valve clearance and what mark do i use to time it the tdc or the eng mark on the fly wheel? and one more thing i use this tractor in antige tractor pulls what should i have it timed at for best performance?

Re(1): Valves

IP: 75.104.191.216 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 11:53:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The valve setting is 10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust. For the timing, it is 4 degrees before TDC when the engine is idling slow. When the engine is running full throttle, it should say ignition HC. This is the way to time it for best performance. Larry

Trying to find out more about tractor purchased

IP: 207.40.212.200 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 08:11:08 PM by John

purchased tractor with loader from auction. trying to find out horsepower and model number of tractor. tractor has a fiat diesel engine, someone as resprayed paint all over except the metal tag which all I can read is 530 22002 716 579 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): Trying to find out more about tractor purchased

IP: 75.104.191.216 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 09:15:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor was built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. It is a 1365 diesel, built in 1973. Larry

oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 74.44.151.204 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 02:46:40 PM by Mark Muller

Not sure if you can help or not, but here goes. I am wondering about paint color for my 1936 oliver hart parr 70. Is it the meadow green? They always look darker color green to me.Do you know what color and where I can get some.

Re(1): oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 75.104.191.216 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 09:13:41 PM by Larry Harsin

It is not Meadow Green. It is a Hunter Green. It is about 2 shades darker than Meadow Green. I just ask for Hunter Green at the paint store. Larry

Hydraulic Pressure 550 Oliver

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 01:08:11 PM by Larry K

What is the operating pressure of the Hydraulic system on an Oliver 550?

Re(1): Hydraulic Pressure 550 Oliver

IP: 75.104.191.216 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 09:10:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It's about 1500. Larry

oliver tractor

IP: 69.179.165.18 Posted on July 26, 2009 at 03:30:07 PM by D.J.Evans

I just bought an oliver tractor and am having hyraulic problems. I need to know what year it is and how/where to get parts. The specification # is 15-0166 and the serial # is 39916-518 and it is a 4-cylinder gas engine.

Re(1): oliver tractor

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 01:06:27 PM by Larry K

Parts are available from Obrien County Implement, Sheldon, IA (800) 320-6224 Tom Schemper, or Kent Gordon (Texas) 903-729-8349 I have used both of them.

Re(2): oliver tractor

IP: 75.104.190.137 Posted on July 26, 2009 at 09:12:36 PM by Larry Harsin

That serial number could fit either a Super 55 or a Super 66 either built in 1956. If it is a Super 66, it is fashioned like a Row Crop. If it is more like a Utility style (like a Ford), it is a S55. The year is 1956. Larry

1850

IP: 98.224.211.191 Posted on July 26, 2009 at 09:14:59 AM by BILL

Hi Larry, Thanks for your website. I have learned alot. We do not use this tractor for farming anymore. It is generally used to brush hog and clear fence rows. About a month ago, when we try to move the tractor after it has sat overnite, something is freezing up on the left axel. It seems to be getting worse. In fact, yesterday it seemed to be frozen up so bad that before it made a loud bang and started to turn, the right wheel was spinning in the grass. Can you please tell me what might be happening and how to fix the problem? Thank you, Bill

Re(1): 1850

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on July 26, 2009 at 12:11:13 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have a brake that needs to be taken apart and cleaned and repaired if necessary. Larry

1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 25, 2009 at 03:22:47 PM by paul

My hydra power has been surgeing in high. I checked the fluid with it off and its ok. should I check it running? I also was trying to check the pressure but I can't get the plug out. I was wondering if I could plumb into the line and get the same pressure? Thank you, Paul

Re(1): 1900 hydra power

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on July 25, 2009 at 09:36:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. If it has the oil pressure line that puts the oil into the collector ring, behind the filter, you can plumb in and get the pressure. You should check the fluid with the engine shut off. Larry

Re(2): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 26, 2009 at 03:18:18 PM by paul

larry , i borrowed a guage and plumbed it in the rubber line. its rapidly bounceing between 75 and 100 lbs. in direct drive and reads 0 in hydra drive. i dont know if the guage is accurate and may have to buy one. any suggestions from here? will it harm it to operate it in hydra drive? thanks, paul

Re(3): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 03:29:56 PM by paul

i bought a new guage and a filter. i still have 0 lbs in hydra drive and rapidly bounceing between 100-125 in direst drive. it feels like its going in and out of direct and works fine in hydra drive. any suggestions from here would be appreciated.

Re(4): 1900 hydra power

IP: 4.249.102.235 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 03:42:39 PM by Larry from MD

i would check the relief valves. There should be some lube preasure in underdrive and much more steady preasure in direct. The valves are about the only things you can service without pulling the engine.The plugs for the valves are on the right to the rear of the unit.

Re(5): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 04:32:16 PM by paul

I will see if i can get them out. i have not had much luck with those little plugs so far. i may have to pull the engine to get them out. im guessing theres not enough clearance to get the side cover off?

Re(6): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 27, 2009 at 06:16:26 PM by paul

i got the bypass valve and regulator spool out. there does not appear to be much chrome left on the spool. could this be a problem? do you sell these parts or should i check elsewhere?

Re(7): 1900 hydra power

IP: 75.104.191.216 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 06:17:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure if that is a problem. We have so little problem with those that it is hard to really tell. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have what you need. Larry

Re(8): 1900 hydra power

IP: 4.249.108.76 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 10:49:19 AM by Larry from MD

If they are not stuck or scored or the springs broken they are probably ok. There's not much else to try with the unit installed. You could have the intake screen plugged on the pump.

Re(9): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 11:20:56 AM by paul

looks like i will have to tear it down this fall. the local ih dealer still has a few that are knowledgeable on olivers. he figures it will cost around a $1000 to rebuild if i pull it. i am considering a used one or maybe even a 3 speed. problem is once i have the tractor that far down there is some tranny issues and oil leaks that should be repaired also. is it possible to back flush it to clear the sreen? is there any products to flush it with?

Re(10): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on July 28, 2009 at 01:02:01 PM by paul

i ordered new springs. went to town and they measured weak. the control valve spring was a 1/4inch short also. hoping to get lucky. i will keep you informed.

Re(11): 1900 hydra power

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on August 4, 2009 at 09:37:03 PM by paul

i got the new springs and put them in. that got it up to 150lbs but i still have 0 on the lube side but im not sure if i would have lube pressure there anyway. i have to study the book. anyway its working a little better but still chattering under load. i may try a new spool and another shim next just for kicks then i will probly pull it out. thanks again for all the info, paul

550 Clutch

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on July 23, 2009 at 10:21:51 PM by J.Mash

Hello Larry,can you tell me how to adjust the pressure plate on my 64 550? Mine has a pretty bad shudder (shake) in it when the clutch engages in any gear. I put a new disc in this tractor several years ago when i bought it, and its done it ever since the clutch disc got seated in.The flywheel appeared to be in good shape.No grooves or burnt places in it. I should have checked the pressure plate out good when i had the tractor split! Much Thanks,Johnny.

Re(1): 550 Clutch

IP: 75.104.188.49 Posted on July 24, 2009 at 06:27:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Just make sure the height of the fingers is all the same. That can be adjusted by removing the clip on the outside edge of the pressure plate - then adjust the bolts. Larry

Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 65.113.124.57 Posted on July 23, 2009 at 07:00:43 AM by Alan Bredbury

I have a 1964 Oliver 1650 diesel. The engine was running fine last fall. This summer I started it, it ran for about 90 seconds and stalled. I restarted it and it starts right up then stalls almost instantly. if I wait a few minutes it starts and runs for about 90 seconds then stalls again. Raise the throttle it stalls sooner. it seems like it is starving for fuel. What I have done:

Drain the fuel and put in fresh Changed all the fuel filters Bled the air out of the system

Results the same behavior I then tried opening the return line (a blocked return line might cause the stalling) and I find that I am getting air bubbles in the return line. The low pressure feed pump is working and there is no air at the final filter. I believe that my problem may be air in the fuel system but I find it difficult to believe I am getting air in before the injector pump. Is it possible the injector pump is sucking air say from a shaft seal? Is this a user servicable item?

Re(1): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 4.248.222.201 Posted on July 23, 2009 at 10:52:24 AM by Larry from MD

You probably still have a blockage in the fuel system somewhere.Try the tank.

Re(2): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 65.113.124.57 Posted on July 23, 2009 at 11:38:30 AM by Alan Bredbury

I have constant positive pressure where the line enters the injector pump which infers to me that I have sufficient flow. I have however, not checked the pressure on the low pressure side of the injector pump as shown in the manual. I need to rig up a gauge for that.

Re(3): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 4.249.108.245 Posted on July 23, 2009 at 05:02:25 PM by Larry from MD

You need preasure and flow to keep running.Any restriction on the suction side will cause problems after its running.

Re(4): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 75.104.188.49 Posted on July 24, 2009 at 06:25:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Even though it appears to have fuel at the injection pump, you may have a check valve in the transfer pump, on the right of the engine, that isn't working. Larry

Re(5): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 65.113.124.57 Posted on July 24, 2009 at 06:44:48 AM by Alan Bredbury

I have opened the bleeder on top of the last filter 1/2 hour after last it was run and there is still pressure so to me that infers that the check valve is ok. I will double check the transfer pump. I am going to try to set up a pressure gauge to check the low pressure side of the injector pump as shown in the manual this weekend. I will try to set up a leak down test on the line to the pump as well. Is there a test for the transfer pump to check volume ie. disconnect fuel line at injector pump and crank for 20 seconds and get 16 oz in a jar? Thanks for advice.

Re(6): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on July 25, 2009 at 06:21:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not aware of the test that you describe for the transfer pump. Call Central Fuel Injection and ask to speak to Bill. 712-362-4200. They are not there on Saturday. Larry

Re(7): Oliver diesel stalls

IP: 75.40.161.204 Posted on August 5, 2009 at 09:28:45 AM by Alan Bredbury

Thanks for the advice, after replacing the feed pump, several lines including the rubber one to the pump and checking the transfer pump pressure, basically bathing in diesel fuel for a day. I called Central fuel injection and described the problem it is inside the injector pump. $$$$ Ouch

Crawler cooling system

IP: 98.125.251.138 Posted on July 22, 2009 at 07:00:12 PM by Greg

I just got my 1951 Crawler running but am not certain that the coolant is circulating. The Drain on the pump tube drains, but the drain from the block is dry and was plugged. Any ideas on how to check my circulation? Also, the radiator cap fits very loose and is not holding pressure - is this normal? Thanks-

Re(1): Crawler cooling system

IP: 75.105.52.199 Posted on July 22, 2009 at 09:41:52 PM by Larry Harsin

There is probably some rust or other debris in the block drain. Take a wire or something and see if you can unplug it. You can even remove the radiator cap and use compressed air and see if you can blow it out of there. If your radiator cap is a pressure cap, you probably need a new one. Larry

550 hydraulics

IP: 76.115.107.149 Posted on July 18, 2009 at 02:40:12 PM by roger

I would like to run a remote valve on my 550. It has the block there now where the factory one would go . Can I make or tap in to that to a external valve. Thanks Roger

Re(1): 550 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.52.122 Posted on July 19, 2009 at 08:42:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can. Larry

Re(2): 550 hydraulics

IP: 4.249.102.19 Posted on July 20, 2009 at 10:44:53 AM by Larry from MD

Bewear there are 2 holes under the block. One lets the oil out and one lets it back in. Any homemade block needs to seal up to and use both holes.

Re(3): 550 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.52.122 Posted on July 20, 2009 at 08:48:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I checked the Service Manual today and none of this was mentioned. So, I'm not sure if it will work or not. You'll just have to use your own good judgement. Larry

1955 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 207.69.139.145 Posted on July 18, 2009 at 09:51:17 AM by Ron Beightel

We have a Oliver / White model 1955 diesel tractor. It emptied the hydraulic reservoir into the differential. I disassembled the pump, a Sperry Rand Vickers LSGW-20-C-10-219 unit, and inspected the components. I have replaced the o-rings and seals but everything else looks good. During reassembly, I noted the ball bearing in the back of the pump is shielded on one side. The shield was toward the back of the pump away from the seal. I find this odd as this would block the hydraulic oil for the bearing in both directions. Yet maybe this is to prevent the bearing from foaming the oil. The manual I have doesnot show which way the bearing is to be installed. Do you have any ideas? Should I also replace the relief valve? Also, how do I completely drain the hydraulic and rear end fluids. I have been told the hydraulic fluid has to be pumped out.

Re(1): 1955 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 75.105.52.122 Posted on July 19, 2009 at 08:40:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I would like for you to call O'Brien Co. Impl. and ask to talk to Tom about this. 800-320-6224. You are not supposed to pump the oil out of those units. You are supposed to drain it out. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the filter, that drains the oil out of the system. Larry

Re(2): 1955 Oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 207.69.137.38 Posted on July 20, 2009 at 03:13:45 PM by Ron

Thank you Larry, I appreciate your fast response. I love your web sight, although I am of the Older generation and don't play on the computer much. I'll call Tom.

1450 REAR PINION BEARINGS

IP: 71.66.124.247 Posted on July 16, 2009 at 07:42:07 PM by |Jason

I HAVE AN OLIVER 1450 THAT NEEDS NEW PINION BEARINGS. I AM HAVING TROUBLE MATCHING THEM WITH ANOTHER BEARING. |DO YOU KNOW OF A BEARING MATCH FOR THESE BEARING OR WHERE TO FIND|?

Re(1): 1450 REAR PINION BEARINGS

IP: 75.105.44.76 Posted on July 16, 2009 at 09:48:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any match. Check with Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934 or Ag Parts First in Wooster OH. 866-264-9720. Both of these places have some of the Fiat Oliver parts. Also you can check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

1960-oliver 550

IP: 69.19.14.19 Posted on July 16, 2009 at 04:28:14 PM by Roger Cary

I have a oil leak coming from behind the fan pulley shaft, also I am running the loaderpump off the front crankshaft-- Is the leak coming from the front crankshaft oil seal or is there another seal behind the pulley? Is this a major repair undertaking & are the seals readily available? Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Re(1): 1960-oliver 550

IP: 75.105.44.76 Posted on July 16, 2009 at 09:44:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I imagine it is the front crankshaft seal. It is a major job to replace it. To replace it, the pulley will have to be removed. The water pump and the front timing cover will also have to be removed. The front main frame will have to be loosened up so that you can get the front crankshaft pulley removed. It is a major job. Larry

1936 Oliver/Hart parr 70

IP: 74.44.151.204 Posted on July 14, 2009 at 03:18:01 PM by Mark Muller

I have a 1936 Oliver Hart Parr 70, I was wondering if the oliver hart parr 70 row crop motor and head are the same motor and head, as the newer oliver 70's (none hart parr 70's) I hope you understand the ?. I am looking to buy a newer Oliver 70 with a row crop motor that has a new rebuilt head and some other things I can use for my Oliver Hart Parr 70.

Re(1): 1936 Oliver/Hart parr 70

IP: 75.105.44.76 Posted on July 14, 2009 at 09:49:35 PM by Larry Harsin

There are some differences on the Hart Parr 70's and the later 70's. The main difference is on the water outlet. The heads are different. The water pumps are different. They are just different and a lot of the stuff won't interchange. I know they look similar, but they are different. Larry

Head for 1600 Oliver Diesel

IP: 69.180.146.26 Posted on July 13, 2009 at 10:05:26 PM by jimspillman

We have a cracked head on our 1600 Oliver diesel. Do you know where we could find another head? Tractor built in 1963. Model 16-1213. Serial number 145-319-607. Engine: F265. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Jim

Re(1): Head for 1600 Oliver Diesel

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 14, 2009 at 06:06:06 AM by Larry Harsin

The one I have is for the earlier style and uses the same thermostat housing as an 880. If your's is the later style, I would check with Midwest Cylinder Head 800-873-8506 or Chapin Machine and Welding 800-648-1083. Larry

S55 lubes

IP: 75.204.161.252 Posted on July 12, 2009 at 07:57:45 PM by Joe Krisher

I would like to know the type/weight of the lube for the trans and diff for a S55 I recently purchased. I have a service manual but it does not list the type lube or what weight it should be. Also the 3 pt will not lower and it did last time I used the tractor. Thanks for your page. Joe

Re(1): S55 lubes

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 12, 2009 at 09:28:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use 80 - 90 transmission oil. The oil for the transmission goes in directly below the steering wheel. There is a filler cap there, on the transmission housing. The filler cap for the hydraulic is below the seat. For the hydraulic, you use med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. It explains how to do this in your Service Manual. I'm not sure what your problem with the arms is. You may have some control linkage that has disconnected inside the unit or something like that. Possibly a valve is sticking. I would take out the old oil and put in new. There might be some water in the old or something like that goofing it up. Larry

rough running 1655

IP: 71.213.233.105 Posted on July 11, 2009 at 09:43:49 PM by tim smith

Just finished tractor ride. Replaced the ignition, new wires, overhauled the carb, cleaned fuel tank. "Misses" or "cuts out" constantly. Used to only cut out during acceleration. Valve issue? Other ideas?

Re(1): rough running 1655

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 11, 2009 at 11:46:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that it is getting good spark all of the time. You may have a weak coil or a break down in the primary wiring from the switch to the coil. You've checked a lot of the other things. Larry

Re(2): rough running 1655

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on July 12, 2009 at 02:44:44 PM by Larry K

I am working on one right now that had a similar problem. The wire from the coil into the distributor was very bad. I had to replace that wire just to drive it into the workshop. We are now going to convert it with an electronic module. Hopefully that will some some other problems. Forty plus years is a long time for plastic covered wires exposed to the heat and other elements.

1550 noise

IP: 69.88.194.193 Posted on July 11, 2009 at 08:54:56 AM by jon

I have a 1550 gas that has a whining sound not sure where. I think in hydraulics any ideas. Also pto lever has to be held forward to operate is there something that just needs adjusted. thanks.

Re(1): 1550 noise

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 11, 2009 at 11:44:15 PM by Larry Harsin

1550's are known to have a whiney hydraulic system. Make sure there is free travel on the upper of the travel on the 3 pt. hitch rock shaft. There is a turnbuckle below the operating lever to adjust it. consult your Operator's Manual about how to adjust it. Larry

Re(2): 1550 noise

IP: 69.88.194.193 Posted on July 12, 2009 at 03:46:24 PM by Jon

I adjusted the linkage and the pto lever holds now. Thanks for the Help Now i have a hydraulic line under left foot leaking guess Ive got more work to do. Thanks again.

Tractor Information

IP: 70.238.190.195 Posted on July 9, 2009 at 02:39:12 PM by Jason

Mr. Harsin, I have two oliver 77's and was wondering if there is a way to see who the original owners were. I have been told that one may be my grandfathers. Thanks Jason

Re(1): Tractor Information

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 10, 2009 at 05:57:37 AM by Larry Harsin

We have no way of knowing who was the original owner. However, the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City has "Build Cards" for a lot of these tractors. The "Build Card" is an old computer punch card. When the tractors were built, a computer followed along the assembly line with them and whenever something was put into the tractor, the card was punched. They haven't figured out all of the codes to the holes, but they have figured out a lot of them and for a fee, will look up the Build Card for your tractor and send a copy to you and what information they know about it. One of the things they can tell you is what Dealership first sold the tractor. Knowing where your Grandfather lived or bought the tractor might help you decide which tractor was his. When you call the Museum, they will need to know the serial number of your tractor and maybe even the spec. number. Their phone is: 641-228-1099. Their email is: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): Tractor Information

IP: 70.238.190.195 Posted on July 10, 2009 at 11:41:25 AM by Jason

Thanks for the info. I will check it out. Jason

Hydrapower oil

IP: 63.230.175.184 Posted on July 9, 2009 at 12:11:50 PM by Roger

What is the absolute best oil to put in a 1900 hydrapower unit? I have heard of several solutions from merconIII to standard hyd fluid. Is there a better one for original and/or rebuilt units?

Re(1): Hydrapower oil

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 10, 2009 at 05:47:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Use Mercon III. Larry

1650 throttle problem

IP: 74.38.171.250 Posted on July 9, 2009 at 06:51:49 AM by Jeff Oliver

We bought a 1650 gas that needed some work. Got it running and the throttle worked fine at first but the hydra drive is stuck in hydra drive instead of direct. Anyway, as I said the throttle worked fine when we first got it running. Started it the other day and bumped the throttle up and it went wide open. thought the carb might have gotten trash in it since it had run out of gas before. Cleaned it and it still does the same thing. You can throttle it down normally but if you ever move the throttle up just a little bit the engine goes wide open. Where do I need to start looking first to fix this? It's possible that the thrust bearing in the govenor has come apart,but the first thing I would check is the spring for the governor. Maybe it broke, or fell off? Without that hooked up the throttle is super sensitive. I wish I had a picture for you. From what I can tell the springs on the outside of the governor connected to the levers are still there. I was thinking about the thrust bearing but was hoping I didn't have to go into that but if I have to I can.

Re(1): 1650 throttle problem

IP: 75.104.182.51 Posted on July 9, 2009 at 07:56:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Remove the governor housing from the front of the engine. Look for broken or worn parts in the governor assembly itself. I think the governor might be breaking up inside. Larry

1850 oliver

IP: 137.146.203.147 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 09:48:17 AM by scott manson

larry what manifolds will go on my 1850 354 motor so i can install a big turbo.i sent a message asking if you could tell what year my tractor was i dont know what happen to it.if you could me ple let me know.ser# 216641 thanks scott.

Re(1): 1850 oliver

IP: 75.105.52.244 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 09:24:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You should call Tom at O'Brien Co.Impl. 800-320-6224, and ask him. As far as I know, there is only the one manifold that fits that Perkins. Your tractor was built in 1969, the last year they built them. I don't know what happened to your earlier message. Larry

1855 hyd. hot

IP: 204.156.77.12 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 05:51:01 AM by Kirby

Hi Larry, We have a 1855 that the hyd pump went bad, replaced it with a A&I Reman pump, Upon start up, pump got so hot could not even touch it with your hand. Bleed system,checked all pressure checks, all checked out good. Sent pump back, thought it was defective, installed another new pump, same results. Removed same pump and installed on our 2-105, got same results, hyd gets so hot within 5 min idling. The original pump from 2-105, we istalled on the 1855, works prefect.Any advise would be helpful. Thanks Kirby

Re(1): 1855 hyd. hot

IP: 4.249.108.178 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 10:58:30 AM by Larry from MD

Its very common for the compensator valve to stick when installed on a tractor that had a bad pump on it. This valve is on the pump and controls how much it pumps. Its the small thing on the end held on with 4 small bolts.Remove the metal fileings in it and reinstall.Oil will leak out all the time the valve is out unless you drain the system.Do NOT let the shaft it holds in come out while working.

Oliver 1800 over under

IP: 67.224.11.17 Posted on July 6, 2009 at 09:34:32 PM by Chris

I have an 1800, on the direct side of the hydral shift it growls and it is hard to get shifted between high and low. The oil filter gets very warm quick as well. Any suggestions on how to remedy this would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1800 over under

IP: 75.105.52.244 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 05:49:31 AM by Larry Harsin

You should check the pressures as it tells you in the Service Manual. You can get a manual from Charles City, 641-228-1099. If the unit is growling badly, I suspect you may have some splines that are stripped and will require a tear down. Larry

Power Beyond

IP: 75.120.201.184 Posted on July 6, 2009 at 09:16:20 PM by wade burrow

Mr. Harsin ....I have a 1550 with a loader and would like to set it up on power beyond. Can you get me pictures and info on doing this. I know the basic idea but I am not sure what ports to use.

Re(1): Power Beyond

IP: 75.105.52.244 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 05:46:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe we talked on the phone yesterday. For a short review, come out of the left front port and block the passage inside. Then, bring the oil out from the front, go to the valve, then the oil returns to the port that is closest to the speed control for the remote on the left side. Larry

1655 injection pump leak

IP: 98.67.54.100 Posted on July 6, 2009 at 03:22:42 PM by Cleon Couey

Have a serious fuel leak on the rear of the injection pump. Thought it was the short hose from the fuel inlet to the back of the pump. I found out that hose was obselete so I plugged those fittings but still leaking.Best I can tell it's leaking from around the fuel cut off shaft where it enters the pump. Can this be replaced on the tractor or must the pump come off?

Re(1): 1655 injection pump leak

IP: 75.105.52.244 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 05:43:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The pump probably should be taken off and taken to a pump shop. I would contact the pump shop before removing the pump, however, and get their advice. Larry

Oliver 550 Gas - Starter Not Engaging

IP: 70.48.201.64 Posted on July 6, 2009 at 01:40:55 PM by Steve

I have an Oliver 500 Gas that all of a sudden the starter is spinning but not engaging. Is there anything I should do/check before getting the local shop to split it?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Gas - Starter Not Engaging

IP: 75.105.52.244 Posted on July 8, 2009 at 05:41:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd remove the starter and take it to my local repair shop. It probably has a broken bendix spring. Larry

1800 Carb and Timing

IP: 69.19.14.15 Posted on July 4, 2009 at 05:08:12 PM by Roy

I am working on an 1800 Series C for a neighbor and have a couple questions...

1.) How do you adjust the carb? I mean, what would you suggest. It was just rebuilt and you have to now run it at half choke to get it to keep running. I am not familiar with the Marvel (non-bowl type like on a 770)

2.) Where are the timing marks on the front of the engine? I could probably find them, but could you give me a decent idea before I start cleaning it all up to find them?

Re(1): 1800 Carb and Timing

IP: 75.104.183.102 Posted on July 5, 2009 at 09:28:15 PM by Larry Harsin

1. I'd turn the load needle out another half a turn and see if that will help.

2. The timing marks are on the fly wheel. There is a little cover on the engine backing plate. Remove it and look for the marks. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Carb and Timing

IP: 66.82.9.53 Posted on July 6, 2009 at 02:40:16 PM by Roy

What should the setting be for the timing? Is it 24 degrees for a gasoline?

Re(3): 1800 Carb and Timing

IP: 75.104.183.102 Posted on July 7, 2009 at 06:32:03 AM by Larry Harsin

It's in the vicinity of 20 - 24 degrees at full throttle. Larry

oliver 88 rc

IP: 64.12.116.207 Posted on July 3, 2009 at 05:16:10 PM by Greg

Larry I've got an 88rc that hasnt ran in a number of years now I have time to tinker with it.the problem that I have is electrical.absolutely no spark.what is a good way to test the 4 pos rotary switch or the coil.most of the other electrical has been checked out

Re(1): oliver 88 rc

IP: 99.194.198.150 Posted on July 5, 2009 at 08:12:44 AM by Jim T

I would start by using a test light. Turn the switch to "on" and see if you have power at the coil from the switch. If you don't have power to the coil, check for power at the back of the switch, find your "hot" going in and then see if you have any power "out" (to the coil). I've been told the switch has brass contacts inside it that may corrode over time without use. A possible cure for this is to turn the switch on and off many, many times to remove the buildup. Report back what you find (or don't find).

Re(2): oliver 88 rc

IP: 75.104.183.102 Posted on July 5, 2009 at 09:25:33 PM by Larry Harsin

If you can't make it work, Korves has those switches. You can talk to Mark about them. 618-939-6681 Larry

Alternator wire to light switch

IP: 74.87.236.103 Posted on July 3, 2009 at 10:53:46 AM by Jack

Larry, I'm adding lights on an Oliver 66. I've got the flood light and tail light figured out. One terminal has a coil about an inch long with a ceramic sleeve around it. The headlights work appropriately when connected to this terminal. Does the wire from the alternator attach at this same terminal? It is the only place I see it could go. There are initials for the "bat", "ign", "fld", and "tail" on the switch. But nothing else has an indication.

Re(1): Alternator wire to light switch

IP: 75.104.183.102 Posted on July 5, 2009 at 09:22:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it goes there. I don't think I would try to hook a wire from the alternator to that terminal. I would hook a wire from the ammeter to the post that says "bat". Larry

620 Oliver hay baler

IP: 207.177.117.197 Posted on July 3, 2009 at 06:47:00 AM by jim murray

Where can i find parts or a hole bailer thanks

Re(1): 620 Oliver hay baler

IP: 75.104.183.102 Posted on July 5, 2009 at 09:18:45 PM by Larry Harsin

For parts, check with Karst Service, 605-649-7741 (day) 605-649-7771 (evening). Larry

Oliver 80

IP: 71.194.148.43 Posted on July 2, 2009 at 02:53:15 AM by John Brammer

I am looking for a manifold for my 1939 oliver 80 (gas) and someone who has built one for tractor pulling for advice call 217 202 5217

Re(1): Oliver 80

IP: 75.104.190.81 Posted on July 2, 2009 at 05:22:36 AM by Larry Harsin

The only source for a manifold, that I know of, is Rosewood Machine & Tool in Rosewood OH. 937-362-3871 Website: www.rosewoodmachine.com They build reproduction manifolds. Larry

1550 3 point

IP: 72.46.182.167 Posted on July 1, 2009 at 09:22:40 PM by Lyle

Larry, I have a 1550 that the 3 point settles when there is no load on it but when i hang something on it the darn thing holds any ideas? thanks Lyle

Re(1): 1550 3 point

IP: 75.104.190.81 Posted on July 1, 2009 at 09:26:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like there is some leakage on the O ring on the lift piston. I would go ahead and use it as long as it works. It is a major tear down to fix this. Larry

Re(2): 1550 3 point

IP: 4.248.216.166 Posted on July 2, 2009 at 10:49:22 AM by Larry from MD

If you have weight on the 3 point the draft control linkage will move some and put the valve spool in a differant place. Just use it as is.

Re(3): 1550 3 point

IP: 72.46.182.167 Posted on July 3, 2009 at 04:59:51 PM by Lyle

Thanks guys but im in the process of redoing this tractor so it looks like i have a messy little project this winter

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