water pump

IP: 71.124.114.207 Posted on July 30, 2010 at 09:53:57 AM by Frank

Oliver 1800-B. I have had this tractor for 35 years. Had first water pump go bad this year. First I had original one rebuilt twice with no luck. Restarted leaking from shaft seal in 3 or 4 days. Tried another complete pump from another rebuilder. Same result, leaking from shaft seal?? What can I be doing wrong?? Rebuilder pressed on drive pulley on first two. Had pulley pressed on at dealer with last pump being careful not to damage seal. Engine is not overheating or running low on coolant until seal fails. Notice this right away and shut things down. Use this tractor with mounted disc. mower so it runs at a steady PTO speed for several hours at a time. Can you help me??? Getting ready to try for a fourth pump?? Could rebuilder be using the wrong seal for this pump?

Re(1): water pump

IP: 75.104.183.80 Posted on July 31, 2010 at 07:32:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't encountered this with that water pump. I have worked on 2 of them this summer and they worked out o.k., so I don't know what your problem might be. Larry

Re(2): water pump

IP: 71.124.44.232 Posted on July 31, 2010 at 01:15:15 PM by Frank

Why are there so many water pumps made for this same engine? Found four different pumps for an 1800 Oliver. All have different part No. and Model No. None will enterchange I guess? My pump has part #156 060 A. Model # 221360. Seem to be rare?

Re(3): water pump

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 07:09:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I haven't encountered problems like this. Larry

1850 pto shift rail

IP: 99.139.146.226 Posted on July 29, 2010 at 01:02:32 PM by David Norrod

Hello Larry, I am really stuck! I had a 21/21 spline output shaft in the lower opening of the pto housing on my 1850 and needed a 540 shaft instead. I pulled the old shaft out (no problems) and the shift rail was moving (in and out) just fine before and after. I noticed the 540 shaft was about a half inch longer so I tested it by sliding it in GENTLY(without the bearing and housing)to check clearance.It went right in but felt like a spring was moving inside at the last 1/2 inch or so but it seemed to fit fine. I made sure it was the correct part number (158281A). Today I installed the 540 21/6 shaft into the 4 bolt housing and onto the tractor and it slid right in and on. Now the shift rail will not move and the shaft is just free-wheeling. I have tried spinning the shaft slowly back and forth, removing the shaft and reinstalling it several times, moving the lever and moving the shaft, etc. etc.. but I can't win after a hour of trys. The tractor was not started or moved but after several trys I did start and move it with no change. What have I done wrong and is there a simple fix that you know of? Thank you much for any ideas.

Re(1): 1850 pto shift rail

IP: 75.104.183.80 Posted on July 30, 2010 at 00:16:26 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a plunger in there that the shaft has to push on and possibly it is sticking. The plunger is spring loaded. I would remove the shaft and use a rod and try to get the plunger to slide back toward you and get the shifter to move also. That plunger is tapered and works a pin that is engaging the shifter ring or blocking it, whatever. Maybe a strong magnet would slide it back out for you. When that plunger gets towards you a ways, it should allow everything to free up so that it will shift. Larry

Re(2): 1850 pto shift rail

IP: 99.135.10.2 Posted on July 31, 2010 at 12:13:55 PM by David Norrod

Thanks so very much for your ideas. I was able to use a magnet and then some very light tapping on the plunger, with the shaft out, and now the shift rod is sliding in and out. I can feel the spring working again when the 540 shaft goes in all the way. I left the shift rail out and installed the 540 shaft and 4 bolt housing all is working fine. Thanks again!

Re(3): 1850 pto shift rail

IP: 4.248.223.174 Posted on July 30, 2010 at 11:30:55 AM by Larry from MD

The 540 shaft IS longer than the 1000 shaft and the plunger larry talks about is so it will only work with the correct shaft in at the right speed. Only shift speeds when a shaft is partly out

piston size

IP: 216.201.57.95 Posted on July 28, 2010 at 03:10:44 PM by Jay Hefflinger

Larry, I have a 77 ,1950 model. Engine is very tired and needs reconditioned. I see one can purchase a 3-3/4 bore piston set for it. Would this balance with my crankshaft? How many cubic inch does it gain? I also have a 770 engine that I could overhaul and use. Does the 770 have any more power or reason to use it over the 77 engine? This is a working tractor not a collector piece so originality does not matter. Thanks. Jay

Re(1): piston size

IP: 75.104.169.171 Posted on July 28, 2010 at 06:27:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I really am not in favor of 3 3/4 pistons for a 77 or a 770. What I like to use is 3 1/2 bore pistons for the 77 and the 3 5/8 for the 770. The 3 1/2 bore with give about 216 cu. in. and the 3 5/8 bore will get you about 231 cu. in. The above set-ups will give you a nice durable engine with plenty of power and still not be too hard on the fuel barrel. Larry

1655 engine oil hot

IP: 98.67.50.89 Posted on July 27, 2010 at 00:23:32 AM by Cleon Couey

Just did inframe rebuild on my 1655 diesel and now when running for an hour or more the engine oil is getting hotter than normal and oil pressure is good. Two years ago oil pressure would fall out after running an hour or so and oil temp would get real hot too. New rod and mains fixed it then. So why has the hot oil come back?

Re(1): 1655 engine oil hot

IP: 75.105.45.52 Posted on July 27, 2010 at 07:02:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The oil does run hot in those engines. If the coolant temp is normal, then I don't think you can do much about the oil temp. The 15-40 oil has more stability than straight 30 wt. oil. Some of the newer oils are half synthetic, which is good for high temp stability. Another consideration would be that after the engine is broke in, you might consider using a straight synthetic oil. These are just a few ideas. Larry

Re(2): 1655 engine oil hot

IP: 98.80.165.132 Posted on July 27, 2010 at 08:05:50 PM by Cleon Couey

By the way,can I install an oil cooler from a 1855 and help my problem?

Re(3): 1655 engine oil hot

IP: 75.104.169.171 Posted on July 28, 2010 at 07:07:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and talk to him about this. 800-320-6224. Larry

1850 injector pump

IP: 71.30.134.213 Posted on July 26, 2010 at 02:21:22 PM by alan

hi injector pump on 1850 is dripping fuel out of the shaft for the lever that shuts off the engine, manual only goes into injector pump r and r and not dissasembly so i havent attempted to fix, but is it servicable and where would you find parts or is it something that needs the whole pump rebuilt to fix. thanks

Re(1): 1850 injector pump

IP: 75.105.45.52 Posted on July 26, 2010 at 11:19:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't necessarily replace the whole pump. I would remove the pump from the tractor and take it to a "pump shop" to have the work done. I have attempted to do this myself and that is why I say, "take it to a pump shop". Larry

Oliver 1600 gas - wide front end

IP: 204.12.162.163 Posted on July 25, 2010 at 06:39:15 PM by Dennis O'Connor

Picked up a 1600 for mowing 40 acres and will be pulling a 2 bottom plow/disk/drag in the fall to put in a runway... It has been worked hard and left outside so some surface rust... Sheet metal is straight with very few few dings - surprising for age... It has an after market front hydraulic hoist/ram with a Short/long boom for picking up things... It starts immediately, has a slight miss (very slight) when running with a light load, and after the oil gets warm I hear rocker arm knock (not when first started) - sounds like just one and at the rear of the engine... I'm thinking this will hang in there for the roughly 40 hours I need to work it until winter, then pull the rocker cover and see what I have to do... It does not smoke... Any general comments or advice cheerfully accepted...

Re(1): Oliver 1600 gas - wide front end

IP: 75.105.45.52 Posted on July 26, 2010 at 11:12:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say if it runs reasonably well, it would probably run till you have time to work on it this winter. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1600 gas - wide front end

IP: 66.188.22.234 Posted on July 27, 2010 at 12:34:46 PM by Dennis O'Connor

Well, I worked it pulling a self powered brush hog for 5 hours on Saturday and from 6:30AM till 5:45PM on Sunday - with only short breaks for me... Yeah, I know that is not much of a load but it keeps humming along, with only a slight twitch at times... It pulls good under load such as sharp turning in soft ground in 5th gear with a barely cracked throttle... The power steering is a big improvement over my Farmall MD with mechanical steering... Anyway, it did good for a beat up old tractor and the engine is easier to listen to than 4 cylinder diesels... My 71 year old body could barely crawl down the steps at the end...

Re(3): Oliver 1600 gas - wide front end

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 10:23:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Power steering is nice to have. And Olivers are nice to have. The engines sound good and they do good work. Larry

super 55 radiator cap

IP: 97.120.251.4 Posted on July 24, 2010 at 10:58:08 PM by david klapperich

I looked at the radiator cap on my super 55 today and found that it reads fuel on it. I would like to put the right cap back on it but I dont know if I have a pressurized or non-pressurized system. How do you tell? Thanks DAVID

Re(1): super 55 radiator cap

IP: 75.105.45.52 Posted on July 26, 2010 at 11:10:20 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a cap that reads "Fuel" on it, it is non-pressurized and you can get a replacement from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681 and it will say "Water" on it. You have a fuel cap on your radiator. Larry

Oliver 550 oil pressure

IP: 71.28.195.35 Posted on July 23, 2010 at 09:09:33 AM by Jim Bennett

I changed oil and filter on my 550 gas and now have low oil pressure. It was ok before changing.Do I need to remove oil pan to check oil pump screen? Thanks Jim

Re(1): Oliver 550 oil pressure

IP: 4.248.221.127 Posted on July 23, 2010 at 11:03:44 AM by Larry from MD

No check the oil filter base first. If you lost the tube and restrictor your oil preasure will drop.

Re(2): Oliver 550 oil pressure

IP: 75.89.133.137 Posted on July 23, 2010 at 12:05:15 PM by Jim Bennett

It has a tube about 2 inches long sticking up out of the base.Where is the restrictor.

Re(3): Oliver 550 oil pressure

IP: 4.248.219.5 Posted on July 23, 2010 at 05:50:35 PM by Larry from MD

The restrictor is under the tube. With the alunim base the steel pipe often slips out and is thrown away with the filter. The restrictor then comes out and you got no oil preasure.

Re(4): Oliver 550 oil pressure

IP: 75.105.45.52 Posted on July 26, 2010 at 10:56:09 PM by Larry Harsin

If those things do not fix the problem, then check the pressure regulator on the front of the engine and make sure it isn't sticking. It is a spring-loaded plunger with a 13/16 or 7/8 wrench head cap. If all of these things don't work, THEN take off the pan and check the pick up screen and the oil pump. Larry

OLIVER 1650

IP: 74.197.160.74 Posted on July 21, 2010 at 04:03:48 PM by KIM

Hi Larry, There is a 1650 Oliver for sale and the PTO Lever is on the left side instead of the right side like my 1650 oliver. Is this a difference in the year made, if so what year do you think it was made? Also the tractor has been sitting outside for 8 years and the engine is stuck, the owner says he has kept the exhaust covered and believes it is from condensation. if that is the case what do you suggest that I try to get the engine to turn? Thank you, kim

Re(1): OLIVER 1650

IP: 75.104.161.251 Posted on July 21, 2010 at 09:52:10 PM by Larry Harsin

If the lever is on the left side it is the first year production 1650 built in 1964. I would remove the spark plugs and put 4 T. penetrating oil in each of the spark plug holes. Also, before trying to turn it, I'd remove the valve cover and put penetrating oil on the valve stems and make sure there are no valves sticking before trying to start it. Take a small hammer and tap on each rocker arm and make sure one isn't stuck. Also, remove the drain plug from the oil pan and make sure there isn't any antifreeze or water in the engine oil. After you do all of these other things, to help get it unstuck, you can jack up one rear wheel, put the trans in road gear and try rocking the wheel to help shake the engine loose. Or, remove the starting motor and use a big screwdriver or a little pry bar and try moving the fly wheel one direction and then the other direction and it might come loose. Larry

Re(2): OLIVER 1650

IP: 74.197.160.74 Posted on July 22, 2010 at 09:05:04 AM by KIM

Forget to tell you it is a diesel.

Re(3): OLIVER 1650

IP: 75.104.169.185 Posted on July 23, 2010 at 07:15:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Since you have a diesel, to get penetrating oil into the cylinders, you'll have to remove the caps on the power cells on the other side of the engine. Otherwise, follow the same procedure. Larry

1600 more power

IP: 72.2.201.67 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 07:26:23 PM by Nate

Hi Larry I have a 1600 1st series 1963. The motor is getting weak whats the best and cheapest way to gain about 15 hp

Re(1): 1600 more power

IP: 75.104.161.251 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 09:47:38 PM by Larry Harsin

You can put a set of 1650 sleeves and pistons in it. That will put it up to 265 cu. in. You can also get a kit to make it 283 cu. in., if you want. Contact Korves Oliver. They will have the parts you need. 618-939-6681. Larry

oliver oc4 surging

IP: 69.10.216.243 Posted on July 18, 2010 at 01:03:53 AM by Darryn Groff

I have a 1957 oliver oc4 crawler. Lately it surges, especially under a load or when just starting to move. Many times it will die after the surging. What is causing this? Also, after about an hour of use give or take, it will just die for no apparent reason. I'll wait about an hour and then it will start up again. Why is this happening? any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): oliver oc4 surging

IP: 75.104.161.251 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 09:44:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a fuel problem or an electrical problem. Your Operator's Manual should give you some info about adjustments on the governor linkage. Make sure there is no linkage that is binding between the governor and the carb. Larry

1800B wheels

IP: 198.208.251.21 Posted on July 16, 2010 at 07:25:53 AM by Tom

A companion question to my Brakes project. I'd like to paint my rear wheels while they are off to do the brakes. Currently the centers are a dark metallic gray similar to Massey Ferguson. The rims are silver. I planned to paint them white like what I typically see on other Ollie's. It's a 1963 1800B. They are 15.5's on 38" rims. What do you think the 'right' color is? Were there any Silver/Gray Wheels on 1800's?

Re(1): 1800B wheels

IP: 75.105.44.46 Posted on July 16, 2010 at 04:07:10 PM by Larry Harsin

If they are not "Power-Adjust" wheels, the whole wheel, centers and rims are Clover White. If it has "Power-Adjust" wheels, the rims and rails are silver and the centers are Clover White. Larry

Re(2): 1800B wheels

IP: 208.83.194.153 Posted on July 16, 2010 at 09:54:26 PM by paul

do you have to take the wheels off to do brakes?

Re(3): 1800B wheels

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on July 17, 2010 at 05:12:13 AM by DJ

No you don't I never take them off but it does give you more room.

Re(4): 1800B wheels

IP: 75.105.44.46 Posted on July 17, 2010 at 07:00:08 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You don't have to take the wheels off to work on the brakes. I don't take them off unless the wheels have been set for 30" rows. Then, there isn't much room to work in there. Larry

Re(5): 1800B wheels

IP: 173.107.22.234 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 08:44:17 AM by Tom

Thanks again, sounds like I may have non-Oliver wheels on there. There's no evidence they were ever white. Center sections are heavy cast disks, dark metallic gray over red primer and rims are silver over bare metal. Rims have typical 2 raised beads to give you a choice of offsets. It's a bit of a mystery and now it has me curious. I think there is a casting number on the wheel, perhaps that will lead me to an answer. The guy I bought it from had 10 or 12 tractors, so it's possible he did some parts swapping too.

Re(6): 1800B wheels

IP: 4.248.222.207 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 01:04:00 PM by Larry from MD

If you have 2 raised noches on the rims they are not oliver. Post your casting numbers.

Re(7): 1800B wheels

IP: 173.107.22.234 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 06:21:57 PM by Tom

166217a - I think I figured it out - they are from a White, possibly a 2-85. Thanks again for the help. You are a saint for all you do for the Oliver community

Re(8): 1800B wheels

IP: 75.104.161.251 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 09:41:57 PM by Larry Harsin

They are from White. Larry

1800B Brakes

IP: 198.208.251.21

Posted on July 16, 2010 at 07:19:47 AM by Tom Good Morning Larry! My 1800B Gas has had very weak brakes since I got it. Seller gave me a set of 4 new friction discs and I'm finally ready to try installation. Any tips? Should I expect to need any gaskets, seals, or special tools on hand before I tear into this? Typically would there be a need for machine work on the metal discs these friction plates work against?

Re(1): 1800B Brakes

IP: 75.105.44.46 Posted on July 16, 2010 at 04:04:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Normally, all you have to do is take them apart and clean them up and then reassemble them. There are 3 springs on each side in the actuators. If they are stretched, replace them. Larry

Re(2): 1800B Brakes

IP: 173.107.22.234 Posted on July 19, 2010 at 08:33:24 AM by Tom

THANKS, will get after them and see if I can finaly get some stopping power

Re(3): 1800B Brakes

IP: 208.83.194.41 Posted on July 20, 2010 at 03:32:49 PM by paul

i put new pads on mine that i got from the local parts house and it dont stop for beans now. i hope that it will get better as they break in.

injector pump

IP: 97.112.110.164 Posted on July 12, 2010 at 09:36:12 PM by scott Collver

if I dont shut off the fuel on my perkins the crankcase fills with diesel fuel I changed the lift pump hoping this would help it didnt is it the injector pump what part needs to be looked at?

Re(1): injector pump

IP: 75.104.182.80 Posted on July 13, 2010 at 06:33:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take my injector pump to have it inspected. Call them and see what they say. It probably needs a new seal. Larry

MFWD parts

IP: 71.90.125.108 Posted on July 12, 2010 at 11:09:16 AM by Jeff Lobner

Where can I get my hands on axle parts for these Oliver FWD's. Who is the manufacturer of these axles?

Re(1): MFWD parts

IP: 75.104.182.80 Posted on July 12, 2010 at 09:03:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Super 55 Hydraulic Stand-pipe kit

IP: 130.76.32.14 Posted on July 11, 2010 at 11:25:16 PM by Patrick Flohe

Larry, do you ( or anyone ) have a stand-pipe kit for the early Super 55's? I guess that also includes some modification to the breathers...? The breathers I have are old, and I leave them slightly loose to allow air to get out when it warms up. Would like new ones, but don't know if they're available. -Maybe I can use some pleated paper filter elements in their place, under the same covers?

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulic Stand-pipe kit

IP: 75.104.182.80 Posted on July 12, 2010 at 09:01:52 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a kit. Check with Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349 He has parted out several of these tractors. I just use some steel wool in those breathers. Larry

engine casting numbers

IP: 68.171.231.17 Posted on July 10, 2010 at 06:21:31 PM by Colt

I asked an earlier question about my new-to-me Oliver 88. When looking at the casting number on the engine and I was wondering if the engine is the correct on for the model of the tractor and if not what model its out of and the CI. The first row of numbers is 190320 and on the second row, right under the first is K100C. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): engine casting numbers

IP: 75.105.45.213 Posted on July 11, 2010 at 11:35:10 AM by Larry Harsin

The 190320 number is the Waukesha part number. The 2nd number, K100C is the Oliver part number and is the correct block number for an 88 engine. K is the 88 series number, L is the 66 series number, M is the 77 series numbers, E is the S55 numbers, B is the Oliver 70 numbers, C was the Oliver 80 numbers, A is the Oliver 90 and 99 numbers, H was Oliver 60 numbers. This is a few of them. Larry

oliver 88 hydra-lectric

IP: 75.197.110.26 Posted on July 7, 2010 at 09:18:59 PM by Colt

I just bought an 88 Oliver RC narrow front to use as a pulling tractor. I was told that the tractor was used for pulling before the person that I bought it from purchased it. It has a reservoir under the steering column, on the floor board, that has a Oliver sticker saying Hydra-Lectric with a plug on the right side of the reservoir. According to the research that I have done on my own, the Hydra-Lectric was for either a 3 pt hitch or for hydraulic remotes. My question is if this reservoir does not have oil in it, without a hydraulic hitch or any remotes hooked up, should I be worried that any part of the system will be damaged? Your response is anticipated and appreciated. Thanks a million!!! Colt

Re(1): oliver 88 hydra-lectric

IP: 75.104.169.173 Posted on July 8, 2010 at 07:10:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Providing that the pump is still attached to the bottom of the hydraulic unit. On these tractors, sometimes tractor pullers remove the pump itself from the bottom of the hydraulic unit and leave the rest of the unit on the tractor. Larry

Re(2): oliver 88 hydra-lectric

IP: 75.197.213.167 Posted on July 8, 2010 at 08:12:58 PM by Colt

Thanks alot. I really appreciate the help!!! Also, would I be correct to assume that the reservoir should be filled with standard tractor hydraulic fluid? Thanks again for all the help!!!

Re(3): oliver 88 hydra-lectric

IP: 75.104.169.173 Posted on July 9, 2010 at 07:10:58 AM by Larry Harsin

If there is a pump on the bottom of the unit, you have to keep it filled. If there is no pump there, you don't have to worry about it. Larry

880 Diesel in Oil

IP: 12.108.212.88 Posted on July 7, 2010 at 11:56:41 AM by Dave

Larry: I have an 880 D. There is diesel getting into the oil (crankcase). The tractor starts and runs great, no smoking. I have changed the oil a few times to verify the presence of diesel. I then replaced the diesel pump and it is still getting diesel into the oil. Any ideas? Thanks!

Re(1): 880 Diesel in Oil

IP: 75.104.169.173 Posted on July 7, 2010 at 09:11:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Does your tractor have a Bosch pump or a Roosamaster pump? It sounds like it isn't getting in through your lift pump. Am I right in thinking you changed the lift pump? If you did, then you have fuel getting in through your injection pump. If you have a Roosa pump, it's probably the seals on the pump drive shaft. If it is the Bosch pump, there are 2 places it can get in there. If you feel your injection pump is the culprit, call Bill at Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200. He can send you the appropriate parts. Larry

white 2-105

IP: 75.221.39.93 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 10:24:37 AM by Devin

Larry, why did some of the white 2-105s have lights in the front and some didnt?

Re(1): white 2-105

IP: 75.104.169.173 Posted on July 7, 2010 at 07:21:12 AM by Larry Harsin

The lights were jut upgrades that they did as the 2-105 progressed. There were 3 distinct series of the 2-105. Larry

Tire Gauge

IP: 69.19.14.32 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 01:08:13 AM by Patrick Flohe

My Super 55 manual says to not use a regular tire gauge on tires filled with calcium chloride, as it will ruin it. What to use, and where to get it? It is time to service the tires, and the local auto parts store didn't have anything, and didn't seem to know what I was talking about.

Re(1): Tire Gauge

IP: 75.105.45.117 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 06:52:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I just don't use a tire gauge on tires filled with fluid. I just add air until they stand up properly or have a decent profile and leave them alone. Larry

Re(2): Tire Gauge

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 07:03:48 AM by Don

They have special tire gauges for that and they sell them at our local farm store Theisen's and Farm fleet.

loss of oil pressure

IP: 75.208.78.75 Posted on July 5, 2010 at 08:51:12 PM by David Roosenberg

I live on a hilly piece of property and have two Olivers that lose most or all oil pressure for several seconds going uphill. One is a Super 88 with a Bosch injected 880 engine. The other is an OC-6 with an Adnerdon dozer--it sometimes loses oil pressure when digging out a stump "downhill". What can de done? Slightly overfilling helps some.

Re(1): loss of oil pressure

IP: 75.105.45.117 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 06:50:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Both of those engines have long shallow oil pans, so that is a problem. You have to be watchful when operating them so that you don't starve them for oil. On the 880, it may be possible to install an oil pan off of a 1750, as they are deeper and hold more oil. This may help. The OC-6 is of the 77 family and there isn't a model with a deeper oil pan. The pickup float on both of you engines possibly could be lowered to help. Larry

Re(2): loss of oil pressure

IP: 4.249.12.153 Posted on July 7, 2010 at 11:13:27 AM by Larry from MD

For a s77 the 1555 oil pan is 1 quart larger. but its still pretty flat. One thing is to make sure you have the right amount of oil. Several tractors have turned up with the wrong dipstick that make the oil leval lower than it should be.

770 Oliver Hydraulic oil loss

IP: 205.214.240.185 Posted on July 5, 2010 at 01:51:27 PM by Ken Daugherty

I have a 770 Oliver with dual electra hydraulics and I can not get my hydraulic oil reservoir to fill. I see no leaks on the outside and I fear that oil must be leaking into the transmission. What is the probable cause and what do I need to repair it. Thanks Ken

Re(1): 770 Oliver Hydraulic oil loss

IP: 75.105.45.117 Posted on July 6, 2010 at 06:45:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The most common problem is bad seals and bearings in the pump. However, it is possible that you have a broken center plate which would really leak fast. Larry

Oliver 88 transmission

IP: 216.229.21.6 Posted on July 2, 2010 at 03:23:51 PM by Greg M

I have been told I can speed up my Oliver 88 Row Crop by putting the ring and pinion from a standard 88 in place of the rowcrop ring and pinion. Is this true and if it is, how big of a job is it to complete? I have found a parted out standard 88 that I can buy the ring and pinion from. Thanks, Greg M

Re(1): Oliver 88 transmission

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on July 3, 2010 at 07:25:07 AM by Larry Harsin

It's true, but it is a BIG job. It requires a complete tear down of the transmission and rear end. Larry

Tach

IP: 97.112.113.29 Posted on July 1, 2010 at 10:24:55 PM by Scott

Need to hook up a tach what is he best way for my Perkins diesel? I installed a newer one from a combine

Re(1): Tach

IP: 75.104.169.174 Posted on July 2, 2010 at 07:22:30 AM by Larry Harsin

On the 50 series, the tach drove off the front of the gear that runs the injection pump. But on the 2-105, they drive off of the back of that same shaft. So, it will depend on what the engine you are working with is like. Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.218.89.21 Posted on July 1, 2010 at 09:37:18 AM by dick zurbuch

I have a 1650 that we adjusted the linkage arm (5 inchs long or so next to the levers)so the lift arms would go down farther and now they are stuck all the way up

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.169.4 Posted on July 1, 2010 at 09:19:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Those arms will only go down so far to hit bottom on the lift cylinder. If you can't change that adjustment on the linkage arm to cause those lift arms to not be stuck all the way up, there may be the possibility of some internal problem on the linkage or the servo valve. Larry

1650

IP: 64.184.170.222 Posted on June 30, 2010 at 09:07:53 PM by Chuck Jackson

I have an Oliver 1650 diesel tractor. It starts and runs well, but has a slight miss sound at an idle. I am wondering if it could possible be an injector, or maybe a valve etc. This spring I did change the fuel pump as it was leaking fuel into the crank case. Sense than it has ran smoother, but just started this little tist tist sound last week. Thanks for all you do to help me and many others figure out these problems. Chuck

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.104.169.4 Posted on July 1, 2010 at 07:55:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd take the valve cover off and check the valve adjustments first. Then, go from there. Do all of the easy stuff first and if you have to pull the injectors, do that last. Make sure you don't have a leaky manifold gasket. That could be what it is. Larry

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