"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - July, 2015 Archives


Oliver 62T

IP: 172.242.146.50 Posted on July 31, 2015 at 08:56:34 PM by corre k

Got a 62T baler a year ago I can make bales that will break the twine heavy but yet twine and bale is loose any ideas what Iam missing thanks for any help

Re(1): oliver 62T

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2015 at 08:04:57 AM by Larry Harsin

You probably need to tighten the tension on your twine box. Larry


1365 oil pressure

IP: 64.12.117.16 Posted on July 30, 2015 at 11:45:52 AM by Tom Johnson

I have a 1365 at start up is fine. In a few minutes the oil pressure light comes on at low idle, I increase engine speed and it goes out. In a few more minutes the light comes on and I increase speed again until it goes out. This goes on until about an hour and I'm running at 1500 rpm just to keep the light off. Is there any way this is not the oil pump? I just looked in the shop manual and it doesn't look like a DIY job.

Re(1): 1365 oil pressure

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 31, 2015 at 07:43:34 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be worn bearings or a worn pump or both. You will have to check it out. Larry


No crank Oliver 77 gas

IP: 166.137.14.64 Posted on July 29, 2015 at 09:25:42 PM by Cobi

Hey Larry,I'm fixing up a Oliver 77 gas and can't get it to turn the motor over with the starter but you can turn the motor with the hand crank. I got a 8volt battery in it for more cranking amps and just had the starter rebuilt. Just don't know what else to do? It wil just smoke the ground on the battery tray when you try to start it

Re(1) No crank Oliver 77 gas

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 31, 2015 at 07:41:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Get a longer ground cable and hook it directly to the engine. Larry

Re(2): No crank Oliver 77 gas

IP: 166.170.0.75 Posted on August 2, 2015 at 09:15:21 AM by Cobi

I did that and same results. Still very slow cranking and ignition is getting hot. Anything else you can think of? Thanks in advance

Re(3): No crank Oliver 77 gas

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 4, 2015 at 09:09:47 PM by Larry Harsin

If it did it again, I believe I would change it to 12 volts. Larry


1750 Transmission

IP: 198.140.4.205 Posted on July 28, 2015 at 07:43:55 AM by Bryan Dempsey

I have a 1750 w/ 310 Diesel that I restored and it came out great. I couldn't be happier with this tractor. However I'm trying to learn more about the transmission. I'm assuming it is the direct drive. It has a shaft coming right out of the bell housing into the transmission. My question for you is, is it possible to change this to an over/under? If so is this something you recommend? I'm interested in being able to shift on the go. THank you!

Re(1): 1750 Transmission

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 31, 2015 at 07:40:11 AM by Larry Harsin

You can go with an over & under or you can have a Hydra-power either one, I have a Hydra-power. If you decide to go that way, give me a call. 712-362-2966. The Hydra-power will give you 12 speeds forward. The Hydraul would give you 18 speeds forward. The Hydraul would be more expensive and more work to put in your tractor. Larry


Oliver 1755 clutch change

IP: 166.216.165.113 Posted on July 25, 2015 at 08:43:08 PM by Jim robacker

I just changed the clutch in my 1755 and now my over under really torques side to side while turning the tractor over pulled the pto shaft out and unhooked the chain and it's still doing it. Any ideas

Re(1): Oliver 1755 clutch change

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2015 at 07:51:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd say you have some loose mounting bolts someplace, The mounting bolts for the adapter plate between the engine and the hydraul could be loose. Also, the bolts that hold the bell housing to the hydraul could be loose. Larry


1850 hydraulic pump

IP: 207.190.75.225 Posted on July 23, 2015 at 07:32:05 PM by Teddy

I have a cessna hydraulic pump in my oliver 1850 perkins and was wondering if you have a rebuild kit for the pump.Any help appreciated,Thanks

Re(1): 1850 hydraulic pump

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 24, 2015 at 09:18:01 AM by Larry Harsin

We don't repair those things, we replace them. Call O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Super 55 power steering

IP: 108.250.61.64 Posted on July 20, 2015 at 06:22:57 PM by James F

I am restoring a 1955 year Super 55 and am trying to find an aftermarket power steering internal gyro set that goes in the steering column for the power steering assist. Is there any source for power steering repair parts?

Re(1): Super 55 power steering

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 21, 2015 at 07:11:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these. Call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349 He has a lot of S55 & 550 parts. Also, Larry Svelak in Austen TX has 550 parts 512-633-5014. Larry


Oliver 1650

IP: 23.113.137.93 Posted on July 18, 2015 at 03:46:33 PM by Paul Freeman

Is their delco distributor that will fit my 1650 Oliver?

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 21, 2015 at 07:07:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Not that has a tach drive. there is a Mallory available from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry


Removing fuel sender on '61 770

IP: 71.82.143.178 Posted on July 16, 2015 at 08:42:31 AM by Craig Arneson

What is the procedure to remove the fuel sender on a 770 gas? I've removed the 5 screws that appear to be securing the unit, but it is still very securely attached. Do I need special tools? Thanks.

Re(1): Removing fuel sender on '61 770

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 21, 2015 at 07:05:29 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You don't need special tools. Those little screws are all that hold that in there. Take a hammer with a little chisel and pop it loose. Larry


1850 three point stuck

IP: 69.35.168.119 Posted on July 15, 2015 at 10:20:29 PM by Brent

I just bought a 1850 with a Perkins this is my first oliver the tractor has been sitting for over ten years I knew it was going to be a project I've got it running and have changed all fluids and filters the I raised the three point and now it won't return down and hydraulic system heats up quick any suggestions what to look for and it is the model with the power shift I don't understand exactly how it works but when I pull the rod out don't notice any changes any help would be appericated thanks.

Re(1): 1850 three point stuck

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 16, 2015 at 07:31:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I would check the control linkage on the 3 point and make sure it is not sticking or binding. You can get an Operator's Manual, Parts Manual and a Shop Manual from the museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. These will help you understand your tractor. Larry

Re(2): 1850 three point stuck

IP: 69.35.168.122 Posted on July 18, 2015 at 10:14:14 PM by Brent

I got the 3 point down by unbolted the servo valve all the linkage seems to be working as it should I put it back together and now the arms won't lift at all I also cleaned the servo valve didn't notice anything wrong the book basically points to the servo valve or pressure relief valve I'm thinking its servo because my loader works and remotes do also any thoughts. I also was wondering if there was a way to hook up my loader another way then using one of the remotes I need two remotes for my baler thanks in advance

Re(3): 1850 three point stuck

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 21, 2015 at 07:03:22 AM by Larry Harsin

You can use the Power beyond port to put a loader valve on it. Give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry


1855 vibrating and rumbling noise

IP: 75.69.131.74 Posted on July 13, 2015 at 03:20:28 PM by Robert

our 1855 also is rumbling and vibrating. I have checked oils ,there clean and looked at coupler and is fine. we have a few of thease old girls know them well but I'm stumped. It only does it under load, any thoughts. Thanks

Re(1): 1855 vibrating and rumbling noise

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 14, 2015 at 07:00:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. Larry

Re(2): 1855 vibrating and rumbling noise

IP: 75.69.131.74 Posted on July 14, 2015 at 08:50:02 AM by robert

checked that to, but it changes to faster and harder when we shift hydral. I did change the imput shaft one year ago because front splines were shot. was doing it prior to that but barely. Has ben getting worse. Now in over my lunch box rattling across the floor, so not good... Trans looked fine in side. Wondering anout hydral. that's the only thing I've never had apart. This was a blowen up tractor when we got her {like that all are around here} so when I put her back together {was in pices in 3 barns} found long shaft was bent, dident get pulled at first I thought. could that damaged hydral in side. it's ben 1500 hours since thanks

Re(3): 1855 vibrating and rumbling noise

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 15, 2015 at 07:19:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to say. Larry


1650 power steering

IP: 69.193.66.58 Posted on July 10, 2015 at 06:37:48 AM by Ean

I was cutting hay the other day with my Oliver 1650. I went to turn around and lost my power steering briefly but it came back after a few seconds. On my next pass I completely lost it. I could freely turn the steering wheel but it did nothing to turn the wheels. After digging into it I discovered that if I ride th brakes and make the tractor work real hard I can get the power steering back momentarily. I'm thinking the hydra motor under the colum has gone bad but don't know for sure. Please help!

Re(1): 1650 power steering

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 11, 2015 at 07:40:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Check under the front of the tractor and see if something is broken up there. Jack it up and look good. Larry


Oil Filter conversion

IP: 72.104.64.10 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 08:34:31 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Can I convert my stock oil filter/sock set up for a spin on filter. I have a 1855 Diesel. If so can you refer me to where to get the kit for the conversion? Thank you very much.

Re(1): Oil Filter conversion

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 10, 2015 at 07:06:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Call tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Starter solenoid

IP: 166.181.3.187 Posted on July 7, 2015 at 04:10:28 PM by willy disher

have an 1650 gas recently rebuilt starter. replaced solenoid too, tractor would not turn over, put the old solenoid, identical to new one back on and tractor started, when i bought the old one years ago,the parts man did something to (reverse polarity maybe) and said it would work, if he had not done this he said it would not work. what did he do? HOW WOULD I DO IT?

Re(1): Starter solenoid

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:14:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to say on this. It is probably a "Will fit" substitute. I would try to get one just like the one that came on the tractor. Some of this stuff is getting hard to come by. Larry


Diesel 770

IP: 108.101.167.31 Posted on July 5, 2015 at 10:12:28 PM by stanley

Changed fuel filters while plowing in real tough going engine died like turning off engine right away but otherwise ran well next round pushed ingclutch when this happened and engine hesitated but ran smooth right away with some normal black smoke out exhaust was driving around farm ran well to sight see engine wide open started to hesitate again but evened out ran well again has electric fuel pump that works don't know what to do

Re(1): Diesel 770

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:10:54 AM by Larry Harsin

It may not getting fuel to the pump. Maybe you have some obstruction the fuel gets to the pump. Larry


1650 brakes

IP: 70.197.233.126 Posted on July 5, 2015 at 05:16:15 PM by steve

I have a 1650 that I went through the brakes last year on and replaced the ball bearings, springs, and pads. I also polished the ball bearing seats. It has had little use over the past year.However when driving it around it slowly begins to act like the brakes are locking up with me never touching the brakes. The outside covers are hot to the touch and I can smell them. Is this an adjustment issue or is a good cleaning needed? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 brakes

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:08:48 AM by Larry Harsin

The brakes are probably adjusted up too tight. Loosen up the adjustments. If the brakes have gotten very hot, you may have to replace the springs again. Larry


Fuel trouble

IP: 184.53.50.41 Posted on July 5, 2015 at 02:29:13 PM by DWight

I have a 1950T with the Wakesha diesel. It will run a few minutes and quit. The filters are empty. Believe the trouble is in the primer pump on the right side of the engine. my question is, do you think that may be the issue, and if so, where can can I get one, or is there a rebuild kit to fix mine?

Re(1): Fuel trouble

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:06:53 AM by Larry Harsin

It could very well be the primer pump. Korves has rebuild kits for this. 618-939-6681. Larry


Have an Oliver, need info

IP: 172.79.141.88 Posted on July 5, 2015 at 10:59:04 AM by Deb Kisly

I have an Oliver Tractor in working condition. Serial number 72 525-721. Specification number 37-1673. I know nothing about this and need info. Someone has offered me $500 for it but others tell me it is worth more. Can you help me? Thanks

Re(1): Have an Oliver, need info

IP: 172.4.207.196 Posted on July 5, 2015 at 04:24:38 PM by 90%ret'd

My guess is that it is a 1959 Oliver 770

Re(2): Have an Oliver, need info

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:05:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be a 770. Is the tractor running or not? If it isn't running, it could be a $500 tractor. Larry


2-105 won't go

IP: 40.128.0.19 Posted on July 4, 2015 at 10:01:15 PM by craig bloom

I hope you can help. I've got a 2-105 that quit on me. this started when I was cutting hay. finished the field shifted fro 2nd to 4th let out clutch and nothing. no noise jerk or anything. The only movement was a slight rocking of the tractor in the lower gears as the clutch was engaged. Dealer told me the rivets broke in clutch. took awhile to get started on it but now engine and over under out clutch intact wore but intact. over under out and ran by electric motor. Has 120 psi in direct and over with 90 degree oil. with no load it works in all 3 gears. dealer said must be shifting fork opened up top of trans[not any fun] everything looks intact pto loosened and pulled back no visible problem you came up in a search hope you can help this truck driver/ hay farmer is at a loss on what to fix. thanks craig

Re(1): 2-105 won't go

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 06:01:36 AM by Larry Harsin

You should have your dealer come and get your tractor and get it fixed. Larry

Re(2): 2-105 won't go

IP: 70.208.4.141 Posted on July 8, 2015 at 07:39:18 PM by Craig

If that was an option it would have been done. Finances tight and was told that it was a simple clutch job. Tractor is apart now

Re(3): 2-105 won't go

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 22, 2015 at 10:46:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Can you get him to make a Service Call? I believe you need him or someone else who knows about 2-105's. Sandra


1850 PTO

IP: 204.10.44.254 Posted on July 1, 2015 at 09:37:51 AM by Dean

I have an Oliver 1850D. I have a problem with a shaft located behind a dust cover above the PTO. I have times when I am cutting with my disc where I will loose, PTO, power steering, hydraulics etc. I pop the dust cover and the shaft has slid backwards. I am able to push the shaft back in and I restore PTO etc. Now it is happening all the time and I am now having oil pour out of the area. What do I need to fix to stop the shaft from sliding back and oil leakage?

Re(1): 1850 PTO

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 2, 2015 at 09:24:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should take the snap ring and that plug out of there. Take the O ring out. Then remove the shaft and see if the splines are badly worn. If the splines are still usable, reinstall the shaft and add some washers to hold that shaft further forward so that the shaft will hold up in the splines better. Larry

Re(2): 1850 PTO

IP: 204.10.44.254 Posted on July 2, 2015 at 12:00:31 PM by Dean

what holds the shaft in place, the plug or the snap ring? I replaced the closet snap ring and it didn't help. Or do I need to replace the shaft?

Re(3): 1850 PTO

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 4, 2015 at 07:53:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Did you take the shaft out and check for worn splines??? I told you several things to do, do them! Larry


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