"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" June, 2002 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" June, 2002 Archives
rear rims
IP: 63.27.103.36 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 09:05:05 PM by Noel
Well perhaps I did a dumb thing, I bought some 28x18.4 rims with tires for the back of my S55 until I get my rims fixed. Did this because the bolt pattern would work. However they either stick out to the side really far, or rub the fenders. Any suggestions on making them work for a while?
Re(1): rear rims
IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on July 11, 2002 at 06:06:50 AM by Larry Harsin
You could fabricate a plate so that you could move your fenders in a little bit. Larry
no power
HI LARRY
I WAS MOWING SATURDAY AND AND MY 1650 DEISAL SEEMED TO START LOSING POWER AND THE OIL PRESSURE STARTED TO DROP AND THE TRACTOR DIED OUT ON ME. I HAD BEEN MOWING FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES IN TALL GRASS ABOUT 3 FT HIGH WITH A 6 FOOT MOWER AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED. THIS TRACTOR IS PREETY MUCH SEE ITS DAYS, BUT IF THE INJECTOR PUMP IS BAD , COULD I SPRAY SOME STARTER FLIUD IN THE INTAKE TO SEE IF IT WILL ELIMINATE LOSS OF FUEL. IN OTHER WORDS WHEN THE TRACTOR START TO DIE OUT OR LOSE POWER I WILL SPRAY STARTER FLUID AND IF IT REGAINS POWER THEN I WILL ELIMINATE LOW COMPRESSION. WHAT DO YOU THINK THANKS AGAIN LARRY FOR ALL YOUR HELP
Re(1): no power
IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 06:22:05 AM by Larry Harsin
You could try using the starter fluid treatment as you say. Did you start losing oil pressure at normal operating speed? How low did the pressure get at normal operating speed? Sounds like you may have a lubrication problem. Was it low on oil? Larry
Oliver 88
IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on July 9, 2002 at 04:17:50 PM by Jason
Hello, I have a 1949 Oliver 88 RC, it has the band brakes. I was wondering if I could install a set of Disc brakes off of another later 88 or 77? Thanks for your help and this wonderful site.
Re(1): Oliver 88
IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 06:16:39 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it can be done. A lot of the early 88's (like your 1949) that had the disc brakes had Field Change-over packages on them. Otherwise you would be involved with changing the bull pinions to accommodate the disc type brake. In the Field Change-over package that was used, an extension was attached to the original bull pinion so that the brake disc could be mounted in there. The brakes from a 77 won't work. They are a different size where they attach. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 88
IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 09:41:42 PM by Jason
Thanks for the info, Larry. Do you have any idea where I could find one of these kits nowdays?
Re(3): Oliver 88
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on July 11, 2002 at 06:34:10 PM by Larry Harsin
I have one. Email me at cobalt@rconnect.com if you are interested. Larry
1955- Rewiring
IP: 152.163.206.203 Posted on July 9, 2002 at 03:27:36 PM by David Young
I recently had to purchase a new wiring harness for my 1955 Oliver and have had a problem matching the new wires with the old original wires.(Colors in new harness don't match old wires)I did get a copy of the electrical diagram from the maintenance manual,but still am having a problem. After attaching everything to where I think the wires go, I still get no ignition. I do get a click when the starter is turned on.Any hints would be appreciated.
Re(1): 1955- Rewiring
IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 06:03:04 AM by Larry Harsin
You should check to see if you have the correct wiring harness. Those colors have to match up or you are in trouble. Larry
disk brakes on 77
IP: 198.81.17.42 Posted on July 9, 2002 at 02:07:57 PM by keith sheets
The left disk brake on my 1952 77 locks up. This can be rather dangerous since I installed an industrial road gear in it. Top speed is about 20mph. Oliver must have goofed up on those double disk breaks. It even states in the manual that "During the operation of the tractor, the brakes will sometimes stick." When they even admit it in the manual, they must have a problem. I wipe the dust off as it suggest in the manual but it does'nt last too long. I also installed new balls and springs and it still does it. Any suggestions from you will be appreciated.
Re(1): disk brakes on 77
IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 06:00:44 AM by Larry Harsin
If the brake discs have worn linings, try replacing them. Larry
88 RC Shifting Problem
IP: 207.230.193.31 Posted on July 9, 2002 at 10:29:44 AM by Kerwin Kilian
Hello Larry. I recently acquired an 88, my first Oliver, and have noticed the following problem when shifing between gears:
- If transmission is shifted into neutral at any point while engine is running and clutch is released, the gears grind when I go to shift back into a gear (clutch in, of course), both high and low range. A "ticking" sound can also be heard coming from the tranny in these situations while in neutral.
- If tractor is started while in gear (clutch in), it will shift well between all gears, both high and low range. Will only have problem if I put it in neutral, and then try to shift back into a gear.
Any thoughts? If I've been too confusing in the description I can clarify. Thanks for your help, Kerwin. Re(1): 88 RC Shifting Problem
IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on July 10, 2002 at 05:58:01 AM by Larry Harsin
If you are shifting between high range and low range, you may hear some noise. This would not be abnormal. If you are shifting gears within high OR low range and you hear this clicking noise, then I feel you will have to take the top off the transmission and see what is happening. Meaning removal of the hydraulic unit or mechanical power lift. Larry
550 steering
IP: 67.202.3.62 Posted on July 8, 2002 at 05:30:35 PM by danny
what is the thing called at the end of the steering shaft. it has bearings in it and they fell out and it came off the shaft .where can i find this part and how do i fix it. thank you
Re(1): 550 steering
IP: 209.163.7.10 Posted on July 8, 2002 at 08:37:31 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He'll be able to tell you what is going on there. You don't just fix these. You'll have to send it away to be rebuilt. He may have one to exchange with you. Larry
Re(1): 550 steering
IP: 12.89.129.30 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 12:47:32 AM by Mike B
The thing that you are refering to is called the "ball nut". It is a squarish block with teeth milled on one side and two split loops that provide a pathway for ball bearings. They are not too tough to rebuild with the proper instruction. You can find it in the I&T manual for the Super 55 & 550, or I can send you the pages if you'd like. They usually don't just fall apart so there could be some other problem. The other bearings inside the steering box are barrel-shaped tapered roller bearings and they go on the top and bottom of the worm steering shaft. They are available for about $20 each. Tom at O'Brien has them in stock. Feel free to contact me if you need help. Good luck. Mike
S55 steering box
IP: 63.27.103.239 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 09:01:47 PM by Noel Putman
Is there a way to lubricate or fill the steering box on my S55. My dad's 550 has a filler hole in the front of the box behind the battery, but mine does not. Thanks, Noel Putman
Re(1): S55 steering box
IP: 198.111.220.41 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:44:51 PM by jake
The 55's are filled by removing the bolt that threads into the right side of the cover of the steering box.The bolt hole is a direct passage into the steering box, a baster works well.
Re(2): S55 steering box
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:51:57 PM by Larry Harsin
Jake's solution is a good one. Larry
Firing order super55
IP: 66.189.222.102 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 01:53:52 PM by Rob
I'm wondering if you know the firing order for the super55 (gas engine)?
Re(1): Firing order super55
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:49:47 PM by Larry Harsin
The firing order is 1 - 2 - 4 - 3. Larry
Re(1): Firing order super55
IP: 198.111.220.41 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:45:54 PM by jake
1-2-4-3
olv770 hydralics
IP: 198.110.154.141 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 01:06:55 PM by Lucas Smart
My oliver 1960 770RC Hydralic unit keeps loosing all the oil into the differential. What is more likely? The pump seals blown or is it the o-rings in the valve body? Thanks
Re(1): olv770 hydralics
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:48:12 PM by Larry Harsin
Most likely it is worn bearings and bad seals. If water has gotten into it, you could have a cracked center plate. Larry
(S55 Belt Pully)
IP: 204.42.28.170 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:46:54 AM by Russ
Larry, would a belt pully off a ford 8n bolt up to a oliver super 55,,
Re(1): (S55 Belt Pully)
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 10:46:17 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. It might. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He handles Ford and Oliver both. 800-320-6224. Larry
S55
IP: 63.26.248.207 Posted on July 6, 2002 at 09:19:49 PM by Noel Putman
Larry, I am in need of the sheet metal trim piece on the top front of the nose cone. It is the piece that held the oliver logo. Is there any other Oliver tractor that used the same sheet metal part that was used on the Super 55? Thanks, Noel
Re(1): S55
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 06:53:47 AM by Larry Harsin
No other Olivers used the same sheet metal part. I do not have one of these. Check with Korves Bros.: korves@htc.net. If they don't have it, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
oliver 1850
IP: 24.116.39.8 Posted on July 6, 2002 at 04:56:59 PM by Rebecca McClellan
My husband and I are new to farming. We are buying a 76 acre alfalfa farm and the owner of the farm has a Oliver 1850 92hp tractor for sale. We know NOTHING about tractors and do not know if this is a good deal at $3500. What should we know about this tractor?
Re(1): oliver 1850
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on July 7, 2002 at 06:48:25 AM by Larry Harsin
That is a reasonable price if the tractor is in working condition. The 1850 is a good all-around tractor. Finding repairs isn't a problem. Larry
1950 88RC colors
IP: 12.4.185.101 Posted on July 4, 2002 at 09:46:09 PM by Clayton C. Hoover
I am about ready to paint my 1950 Oliver 88RC and want to know what the correct scheme should be for this year. I have seen so many different schemes and would like to know how they were painted at the factory when new. I am specifically interested in whether the wheel hubs should be green or red. I have seen tractors with red wheels and red hubs, but I have also seen tractors with red wheels and green hubs. Which one is correct? Also, for the yellow items, beyond the grills and the radiator cap lid, should there be a yellow stripe along the frame rails under the engine? How 'bout on the center strip of the hood? There is currently a yellow stripe along the frame, but it could have been added in a repaint years ago. There is no paint left on the hood to tell whether there was yellow all the way back or not.
Re(1): 1950 88RC colors
IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on July 5, 2002 at 06:20:13 AM by Larry Harsin
I think the early fleetlines had the red wheels with the red hubs. Yes, there should be a yellow stripe along the frame rails. If there is a raised area, all of the raised cast should be a yellow stripe clear back. If there is no raised area, it quits up there by the radiator. I've never seen 88's with a yellow stripe on the hood. The green paint is Dupont Dulox 019, the red paint for Oliver wheels is Martin Senour red 99L-3752, the yellow is Martin Senour 99L-11611. Larry
REBUILD
IP: 207.218.202.206 Posted on July 4, 2002 at 08:37:06 PM by KIM
HELLO LARRY, I AM GOING TO EITHER RE-RING MY 1650 OR REBUILD THE ENGINE IF I RE-RING WHAT IS INVOLVED WITH THIS PROCEEDURE AND IF I REBUILD AND PULL THE ENGINE WHAT OTHER ITEMS SHOULD I TAKE CARE OF WHILE ENGINE IS BEING REBUILT. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP KIM
Re(1): REBUILD
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on July 5, 2002 at 06:08:56 AM by Larry Harsin
If you simply rering it, I would pay close attention to the wrist pin bushings and probably install over size wrist pins. I would also check for excess wear in the top ring groove on the pistons. Check for worn valve stems and valve guides. If you pull the engine to do a major, replace the front and rear main seals, if needed, and also be sure the clutch is in top notch shape. Also at that time if you have a hydra power or hydraul, check for any leakages in that area. On either a major or a minor overhaul, if it is a gas tractor, I would remove the governor and check it for wear and repair as needed. Larry
Front seal
IP: 152.163.197.49 Posted on July 2, 2002 at 08:29:56 PM by Drew
Larry when putting in the frount maine seal on my 66, its a cork seal,it seems to get pushed away from the inside of the timing gear cover when the pully is put on and leaks. Whats the trick to keep it tight on the pully and still let it spring back againest the cover.
Re(1): Front seal
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on July 3, 2002 at 08:31:17 PM by Larry Harsin
Fit that seal onto the pulley hub before assembling. You may have to take some emery cloth and grind out some of the cork where it slides over the pulley hub. Sometimes the seal fits on those pulley hubs too tight and then won't seal tight on the timing cover. Larry
Oliver Row Crop 88
IP: 216.178.87.57 Posted on July 2, 2002 at 04:36:55 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I am replacing the front crankshaft seal on my Oliver 88. Is it usually necessary to place a shim behind the seal to maintain good spring pressure on the timing gear cover? I was just wondering if this is normal to do because without the shim the timing cover just barely comes into contact with the seal and causes it to leak oil. Thank you very much again for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver Row Crop 88
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on July 2, 2002 at 08:02:15 PM by Larry Harsin
This is not normally necessary. However it is acceptable. Check and see if your crank shaft has inplay. You may have a worn thrust surface on your 3rd. main bearing. Larry
660 runs rough
IP: 63.97.240.1 Posted on July 1, 2002 at 07:44:26 PM by Ron Patterson
Larry, I have a 660 that runs a little rough at an idle. When you attempt to open it up, it either kills or runs very rough until it gets opened up. Then it runs fairly well. I have talked to a carburetor person who says that it is ignition. I read some of your archived messages that talk about checking the points. The motor was rebuilt about 3 years ago. Any help would be appreciated.
Re(1): 660 runs rough
IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on July 1, 2002 at 08:33:02 PM by Larry Harsin
It can be ignition or carburation or something else like bad manifold or bad plug wires etc etc. Check out all the easy things first. You should have an Operator's Manual. It explains a lot of this plus it has pages on Trouble Shooting. You can get one from Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry
ROPS for 550
IP: 67.34.170.11 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 09:52:00 PM by Frank Dodson
Larry I have a 1964 550. I was wondering if Oliver put ROPS on the later 550s. Do you know where there may be after market ROPS for these tractors? Thanks
Re(1): ROPS for 550
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on July 1, 2002 at 05:31:53 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(1): ROPS for 550
IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on July 8, 2002 at 12:31:47 AM by Greg
What's the acronym ROPS??
Re(2): ROPS for 550
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on July 9, 2002 at 05:51:37 AM by Larry Harsin
ROPS is Roll Over Protective Structure. (Roll bar). Larry
Super 88
IP: 158.116.158.130 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 03:46:37 PM by Bob Christiansen
Larry, 4 years ago I purchased what I was told was a Super 88 however the side panels had been removed and there is no distinguishing markings. What is the "best" way to determine if it is a Super 88 or just a std 88? It also does not have a PTO. Additionally, over the years the throttle linkage has become very "stiff" and is now not providing enough gas to accelerate. I think it may be rusted up. Can you recommend someplace that I can get a replacement?
Re(1): Super 88
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 08:57:20 PM by Larry Harsin
Send us the serial number and we can tell you if it is a Super 88 or a Standard 88. I think if it is just rusted, shoot some penetrating oil up under the battery box on the throttle linkage. That is probably where it is messed up. Try that before replacing it. Larry
880 stuck motor ?
IP: 12.161.110.28 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 11:24:46 AM by John Journell
Larry , I asked you awhile back about a stuck motor on a 880 gas, it turns out that it is not in the motor, I know didly about the 3 digit series. This tractor is stuck somewhere else , with the tractor in gear , and the clutch depressed , it will not move , but if you move the handle on the left side of the steering wheel , it will roll foward , making a clicking sound , but not backward. I asked you before , WHAT DOES THIS HANDLE DO ? you did not tell me when you replied before . Any idea what is going on in this drive train , what is broken , or stuck ? Thanks , John Journell
Re(1): 880 stuck motor ?
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 01:33:12 PM by Larry Harsin
That lever is the control lever for a power booster which is like a T.A. in a Farmall. With the clutch pedal depressed, that engine should be free. If it still will not turn, I would pull the PTO shaft that runs up to the flywheel out. If this frees things up, you probably have a siezed pump gear in the hydraulic pump. Larry
Re(2): 880 stuck motor ?
IP: 208.10.125.88 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 06:39:18 PM by Larry from Maryland
I can add that in low the power booster will allow the tractor to roll forward but not backwards.That is the way it works and is not broken.I agree with Larry H.
1750 front end
IP: 205.188.195.57 Posted on June 29, 2002 at 11:04:23 PM by Tim Elliott
We have a 1750 special with a loader on it and was wondering what parts we can change to make the front more reliable we have had several problems with steering parts will acomplete front end from a 55 series or white go under it what is best in your opinion? thanks Tim
Re(1): 1750 front end
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 05:45:31 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, a complete front end off a 55 will fit. If you are using the 1750 with a heavy loader on it, go to a salvage yard and buy a front end off a 2255 and install that. The only thing you'll have to revamp is where the wishbone attaches. That isn't too difficult to do and that will be a lot stronger and better. Check with Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor parts 800-831-8543. One of these should be able to help you. Larry
S55 Pressure Plate
IP: 63.26.248.169 Posted on June 29, 2002 at 10:50:43 AM by Noel Putman
Two questions. What torque should I tighten down the pressure plate to the flywheel? Could you rebuild a S55 pressure plate assy or recommend someone to rebuild it if I send it? I am having trouble finding a rebuilt one. Thanks, Noel Putman
Re(1): S55 Pressure Plate
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on June 30, 2002 at 05:37:52 AM by Larry Harsin
I would say that 20 lbs torque would do it. I don't have the parts it would take and I am swamped with work right now. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have a rebuilt. Larry
Re(1): S55 Pressure Plate
IP: 207.16.136.22 Posted on July 8, 2002 at 12:41:49 AM by Greg S.
I have a 1961 550 which is very similar...probably same pressure plate. Check with McFarlanes (800-627-8569)they had mine for $193 w/o core. Located in Wisconsin.
Also check... Korves Bros. 618-939-6681
Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276
Worthington Ag 800-426-6960
O'Brien Impl't 800-320-6224
Farmersville Impl't 717-354-2150
Oliver (dozer)
IP: 63.23.175.10 Posted on June 28, 2002 at 07:13:45 AM by Bill Hawkins
I have just gotten a Oliver oc4-3g-46, dozer. The clutch is slipping, can you help, and where would there be a place to get parts..Thank you for any help. Bill
Re(1): Oliver (dozer)
IP: 209.163.7.99 Posted on June 28, 2002 at 05:56:11 PM by Larry Harsin
The best place for advice and parts for an Oliver or Cletrac Crawler is Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA zoc@att.net. Landis has a repair shop and parts. If you need an Operator's Manual email Charles City at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry
Oliver 1750 WFE
IP: 136.160.159.238 Posted on June 27, 2002 at 10:53:15 PM by Clint
Larry, will the WFE from a Oliver 1750 bolt right onto an Oliver 77? They look virtually the same except the part that connects right under the front end. Are the tie rods the same size and use the same hubs and all.
Re(1): Oliver 1750 WFE
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on June 28, 2002 at 06:25:03 AM by Larry Harsin
It might bolt on, but I don't think that the steering cylinder will fit in the 77 frame. The tie rods were smaller on the 77. The hubs are different also. However, if the steering cylinder would fit into the 77 frame, it might work. Larry
S55 block
IP: 204.42.28.167 Posted on June 27, 2002 at 06:23:58 PM by Russ
I was told a 66 and 55 block was the same, but i have a super 55 would the 66 need to be a super also, or could it be a non super, What if any differances are there????
Re(1): S55 block
IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on June 27, 2002 at 10:23:59 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think you can replace a S55 block with a 66 block alone. But you can put a S55 block in a 66. The difference is in the amount of room for the rod journal on the crank shaft. The 66 block doesn't have enough room for the larger rod journal of the Super. You could use a 66 block, crank and rods in the S55 tractor. Larry
770 hydraulics
IP: 64.90.78.49 Posted on June 27, 2002 at 00:58:18 AM by Troy Mevissen
I have a 770 gas with a Paulson loader. It has one way cylinders and when I lower the loader it goes down very hard and very fast. What can I do?
Re(1): 770 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on June 27, 2002 at 05:48:25 AM by Larry Harsin
Install a restrictor on the hose that goes to the cylinders so that it doesn't come down so fast. Larry
770 tranny
IP: 209.62.166.169 Posted on June 26, 2002 at 06:11:21 AM by Jim Cherveny
I bought a 1966 model 770. It was jumping out of 1st and 3rd. I replaced shift lever that had been welded before I got it.Now it seems ok in 1st but still wants to pop out of 3rd. It will stay in gear if I hold pressure on lever. Any and all ideas welcome. Thank you in advance.
Re(1): 770 tranny
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on June 26, 2002 at 12:37:35 AM by Larry Harsin
You may have a loose or bent shifting fork. The spring in the shift poppit may be weak also. Larry
880 hyd
IP: 12.40.148.19 Posted on June 26, 2002 at 04:28:48 AM by Darrel
hi larry, I've have a problem with my 880 hyd again i have a 3 point cultivator on and when i after raise it all the way then try to let it down the pump just sqeals but if i jiggle the handle a couple of times i can get it to go down or i have to let it set with engine off . any insite to my problem tia Darrel
Re(1): 880 hyd
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on June 26, 2002 at 12:35:16 AM by Larry Harsin
It may just be low on oil. Check that first. If not, and you are using a 3 inch cylinder, maybe going to a 4 inch cylinder might help. Larry
Hyd lift cross shaft oil seals
IP: 208.196.35.15 Posted on June 25, 2002 at 08:46:02 AM by Noel Putman
Is there any easy way to remove the hyd lift arm cross shaft oil seals without taking the lift cover off and removing the cross shaft? Thanks, Noel
Re(1): Hyd lift cross shaft oil seals
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on June 25, 2002 at 07:17:05 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, drill a small hole in the seal and use metal screw to force the seal out. Larry Harsin
550 condenser
IP: 12.13.248.4 Posted on June 24, 2002 at 10:05:10 AM by Pete in Ks
Larry I have a 550 that the condenser keeps failing. The points are OK. What could cause this. A new one will last about 5 hrs.
Re(1): 550 condenser
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on June 25, 2002 at 06:14:42 AM by Larry Harsin
What actually happens is the condenser shorts out. Perhaps you aren't using the correct condenser. You should use a Delco-Remy condenser as that is what was originally in there. The specifications are: Capacity .18 - .23 mfd. Insulation Resistance 5 megohms (hot) min. 500 megohms (cold) Flash Test (Breakdown) 500 volts direct current. Larry
Oliver 1655 operator seat repair or replacement
IP: 12.75.135.52 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 10:14:44 PM by John J. Waller
Dear Larry,
I am looking for someone who will rebuild the operator seat on Oliver 1655. I have purchased replacements from White Company Agco some years back which were not the quality of Oliver original seat. Do you know of any business which would take my original seat and restore it Oliver quality. Thank you, John Waller
Re(1): Oliver 1655 operator seat repair or replacement
IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on June 24, 2002 at 06:38:40 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He is real knowledgeable about this and has seats on hand. Larry
Oliver S55 Clutch
IP: 63.27.103.83 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 08:56:42 PM by Noel Putman
Hello, I am having problems with the clutch on my super 55. It does not want to completely disengage. When I push down the clutch pedal the tractor still wants to move and shifting gears leads to a lot of gear grinding. No matter how much I tightened the external adjustment screw it would not completely disengage. I have split the tractor and ordered a new clutch disc and pressure plate. Is there something that I could be overlooking? The parts won't be in until later in the week, but while I have it apart I want to be sure I fix whatever should be when the tractor is split. Thanks
Re(1): Oliver S55 Clutch
IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on June 24, 2002 at 06:33:54 AM by Larry Harsin
Check the condition of the flywheel and if it is not nice and smooth and even, get it resurfaced at a machine shop. Inspect your pilot bearing and the throw-out bearing to make sure they are good. Larry
Re(2): Oliver S55 Clutch IP: 208.196.35.15 Posted on June 24, 2002 at 07:08:56 AM by Noel
what am I looking for when inspecting the pilot and throwout bearings? Thanks, Noel
Re(3): Oliver S55 Clutch
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on June 25, 2002 at 06:17:14 AM by Larry Harsin
Make sure that they are not stuck and that they are smooth. That they work smoothly and there isn't excessive wear. Larry
44D 440?
IP: 207.144.172.195 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 09:26:52 AM by RAY REED
LARRY; I have a 44 or 440 (the paints faded away ) spec #45-0074 ser # 112094-519 , I changed the injector pump and now i can't get it in time ,need the procedures , "help" . THANK YOU RAY
Re(2): 44D 440?
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 10:53:01 PM by Larry Harsin
I would say that you have a 1952 550 diesel. There wasn't a 44 or 440 diesel. You need to get an I & T Shop Manual for this tractor at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net. It will give you the whole procedure for timing it. Larry
Re(1): 44D 440?
IP: 208.10.124.64 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 12:05:04 AM by Larry Wolfe
Thats a 550 serial number.I have never heard of a diesel 440.
Oliver Crawler
IP: 12.82.161.90 Posted on June 22, 2002 at 10:33:29 PM by Steve Hammack
I just acquired an Oliver Crawler and would like to find out which model number it is so I can get a service manual for it. On the serial numbet tag there two numbers the Model no. 006-32-c and the serial number 4501443 any help you could give would be appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver Crawler
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 10:46:25 PM by Larry Harsin
It could possibly be a 1954 OC6 gas powered. You could ask Landis Zimmerman who is an Crawler Expert. zoc@att.net. Larry
88RC Diesel
IP: 156.142.228.45 Posted on June 21, 2002 at 09:18:17 AM by Steve
Larry i have a diesel out of an 88RC. The only identification on it is a casting # 190320 K-1000. Can you give me any information on it, manufacture, cubic inch, ect. thank you
Re(1): 88RC Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on June 21, 2002 at 09:14:56 PM by Larry Harsin
I think it is a Waukesha engine that was used in the Oliver Fleetline 88. I think originally the engine had a 3.5" bore and a 4" stroke. But probably if you tear into it, you will likely find 3.75" bore as most of the originals have been oversized. Larry
Oliver service technical manual
IP: 66.212.5.140 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 07:02:11 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I emailed Charles City about the service manuals you told me about two weeks ago for the 77, 88, & 770. They replied back to me telling me the manuals come in a WFE (White Farm Equipment?) binder and they cost $150 + $10 shipping. I just wanted to make sure these were the manuals you had in mind before I spend the money and order the wrong thing. Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver service technical manual
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 09:38:23 PM by Larry Harsin
I think that these are what you want. This is very reasonable because they cover so many tractors. You could ask Mary Ann if she would take them back if you weren't happy with them, but I think you will be happy with them. The originals are worth over $300. I don't know if these are reprints or originals. Sometimes reprints are higher because of printing costs. Larry
880 stuck motor ?
IP: 12.161.110.45 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 12:46:17 AM by John Journell
Larry , I recently purchased an 880 oliver gas , It was running good in October of 01, was kept in the barn all winter . Now it will not turn over , I have put penetrating oil in the plug holes , put almost 2 gallons thru there. I have the tractor in sixth gear, I rock the wheels almost every day , even hooked another tractor on to it ( with plugs out ) , with no results, The cylinder walls look excellent thru the plug holes. I have been trying this for two weeks now, no luck . Is there anything in the drive line that could be locked up ? All the gears work freely , I have restored about 30 tractors , a lot of 77s 88s , but this 880 has me scratching my head. Also , what is the lever for on the left of the steering wheel , if it was a farmall , it would be the t.a. . Could something have stuck in that ass. ? I am baffeled. Thanks , John Journell
Re(1): 880 stuck motor ?
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 09:32:28 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think rocking it is going to help this time. I would take the starter out and try prying on the teeth on the ring gear with a wrecking bar. If the engine doesn't want to turn, I believe I would try checking the bearings to see if a bearing had siezed to the crankshaft. Larry
88 Gas
IP: 63.168.203.67 Posted on June 19, 2002 at 04:00:40 PM by Dale G
I am going to pull a 88 gas and we are allowed 20 percent over on rpm's.How do I turn up the rpm's? Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
Re(1): 88 Gas
IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 06:36:35 AM by Larry Harsin
Shorten the governor spring. Larry
1953 77 Row Crop
IP: 63.172.100.21 Posted on June 19, 2002 at 12:53:04 AM by Chris Wilder
I have a 1953 Oliver 77 Row Crop diesel. It has a problem of just all of the sudden shutting off. I suspect the fuel pump,but not sure. If this is a pump problem where can I get a new one and how much should I expect to pay for it? Thanks, Chris Wilder, Paw Paw, Michigan
Re(1): 1953 77 Row Crop
IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 06:34:29 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
PTO for 77
IP: 66.43.233.233 Posted on June 19, 2002 at 12:30:05 AM by Steve Oliver
Hey Larry, do you have a PTO for an standard 77 if so can a backyard mechanic replace one ? what might I expect to pay for the whole unit? thanks for your help this is a neat site it is very helpful just to read the archives
Re(1): PTO for 77
IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 06:31:27 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I think so. I'll check and email you. Larry
1855 Hydraulics
IP: 24.197.243.109 Posted on June 18, 2002 at 10:41:33 PM by MikeO
Hi Larry, love you site, hope you can help. My 1855 has been overheating on the hydraulics for a number of years, but since we didn't use it too much, it didn't seem like a concern. Now we find that we are using it alot this year and the hydraulics are a big problem. I have already changed the filter and didn't find much in it. I have backed off the compensator valve reducing the hp needs, but it still runs hot. (light doesn't work either). One of the posts indicates the presure relief valve may be weak. (Its one of the earlier 1855's with the smaller brake lines and the hydraulic unit bolted on with 3/8's bolts instead of 1/2 bolts. I have read my IT manual and a after market manual and find that this is no easy problem to solve. Is there a real good source for this type of problem solving? I am also thinking of replacing parts from a '74 1855 that we junked out like the pressure relief valve. Any ideas? I need to be ready to cultivate 140 acres of green beans in 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
Re(1): 1855 Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on June 19, 2002 at 06:04:35 AM by Larry Harsin
No, I don't have an answer for you! Check the little belt-driven pump at the front of the engine. Maybe it is not moving the oil through the cooler properly. Could a cooler line be restricted? Larry
Re(1): 1855 Hydraulics
IP: 66.66.101.122 Posted on June 23, 2002 at 03:35:55 AM by fran
Hi Larry and Mike,I have a 1755 and have the same problem,have replacd pump $900 dollars didn't help, if you find the problem please let me know. thanks. 585-682-4289 fran or fimburgi@rochester.rr.com
1450 hydra.
IP: 198.26.122.12 Posted on June 18, 2002 at 11:53:30 AM by Lyle
This the same tractor that ask about earlier. I have change the and clean the filter. Still poor Hydr. The three point arms will stay up once they lift upBut ,will not lift byself. The power steering is very poor. I tested the remote Hydra.,show 600 psi Is there a relief system or is the pump failing??
Re(1): 1450 hydra.
IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on June 18, 2002 at 09:30:33 PM by Larry Harsin
It would be my guess that you have a bad pump. Larry
Re(2): 1450 hydra.
IP: 198.26.122.14 Posted on June 20, 2002 at 03:40:13 PM by lyle
Due to cost and the hard time find one. Is there anyother testing or tricks to try?
Re(3): 1450 hydra.
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on June 21, 2002 at 09:20:54 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Danny Bowes in Ontario Canada. He can give you advice and he sells Fiat parts. His website is: itp.freewebspace.com/index.html I am just not as knowledgeable on the Fiat models. Larry
Oliver 70RC engines
IP: 209.163.99.161 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 05:50:42 PM by Keith
We recently acquired our first Oliver, a 1938 model 70 Row Crop. I was told by the previous owner that the tractor has a 5 timing gear engine and that others had a 3 timing gear engine. What I'm trying to figure out is how different are the two engines and is the 5 gear the later of the designs or the earlier? Is the 5 gear engine harder or easier to find parts for? I recently acquired an original operators manual for the 70RC and the engine it shows is set up different than what we have. The manual seems to be for an earlier year since it refers to steel wheels as standard equipment and only deals with magneto ignition. Ours has a distributor ignition on the left side of the engine (the manual shows the mag on the right) and the radiator plumbing is different.
Re(1): Oliver 70RC engines
IP: 209.163.7.34 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 10:53:35 PM by Larry Harsin
Every 70 when it was built came with a magneto, distributors were added later. You have a 5 gear engine and that is an earlier one. It is becoming harder to find parts for the older engines than the later ones. Having steel wheels refered to in the manual doesn't necessarily mean it is for the earlier 70. Steel wheels could be ordered on that tractor for every year it was built. If you would get a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net, it would tell you about both engines. Larry
hydraulic unit
IP: 155.91.6.71 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 02:57:56 PM by Parker Mathers
Larry, I want to add hydraulics to a S77. Do you have a unit and how easy is it to install? Thanks
Re(1): hydraulic unit
IP: 209.163.7.34 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 10:45:37 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I have a unit. The input will have to be cut off because there used to be a gear on it to run the power lift. If you are interested, email me. Larry
price?
IP: 155.91.6.71 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 02:54:10 PM by Parker Mathers
How much for the S88, 770's and 880 with loader??
Re(1): price?
IP: 209.163.7.34 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 10:43:33 PM by Larry Harsin
The S88 gas is $3000. The 770's - $2500 on the early one $3500 on the late one. The 880 with the loader is $4950. If you are interested in these, email me. Larry
Over/Under Hydral
IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 10:55:34 AM by Shep
What is a three speed Over/Under worth??? It does not look like it would be hard to put one in a tractor that had a Hydra power in it other than putting a cooler in and changing the shift lever a little. Let me know what you think. Are all the Over/Unders the same that have the chain coupler???
Re(1): Over/Under Hydral
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 01:54:56 PM by Larry Harsin
I have one that came out of an 1850 Diesel. I would sell it for $500. It is supposed to be in working condition. I don't think it would be too bad of a job. The input shaft in the 1655 is different from the 1755, 1855 & 1955. Pretty much, they are all the same. Larry
Super 55 Oliver backhoe
IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 08:43:07 AM by Greg Davis
Larry, I have recently found a Super 55 Oliver backhoe. It does have what appears to be the original backhoe on it. I'm not sure if the loader is original or not. The tractor needs some serious attention and is missing some parts. It has a diesel engine. How rare are these? What would be the approximate value of a non-running Super 55 Backhoe? Where can I find more information on the number of Super 55 backhoes built? As always, thanks for the information. Greg Davis
Re(1): Super 55 Oliver backhoe
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on June 17, 2002 at 01:49:42 PM by Larry Harsin
They are not very many of these backhoes around. But there were a lot of S55's built and their serial numbers were not kept seperately, I don't believe. There are a lot of variables when it comes to price. It sounds like $1000 would be plenty. How many of them were built, I don't know. Check with Sherry Schaefer, Editor of the HPOCA Magazine sherry@oliverinformation.com. Larry
oliver 88 diesel
IP: 208.50.105.190 Posted on June 16, 2002 at 02:07:47 PM by Bill
my oliver 88 diesel never seems to warm up to a normal operating temperature, is this a symptom of a malfunctioning thermostat?
Re(1): oliver 88 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on June 16, 2002 at 10:24:27 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. Larry
1650
IP: 209.184.230.141 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 12:43:25 AM by BRUCE BRANDT
LARRY, JUST DROVE MY 1650 DIESEL TO TOWN TO THE CARWASH. RAN EXCELLENT ON THE WAY IN, COMING BACK, WENT ABOUT 1 MI. AND IT STARTED TO LOSE POWER. IT IS BLOWING BLUISH- WHITE SMOKE, LOW ON POWER, DOESN'T HAVE THE RPMS. RUNS SMOOTH, NO NOISES, STAYED IN THE MIDDLE ON THE TEMP GAUGE, GOOD OIL PRESSURE, JUST LOW POWER AND LIGHT SMOKE. SUPPOSEDLY IT HAS ABOUT 300-400- HRS. ON OVERHAUL. MIGHT YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT IS GOING ON? AM PLANNING TO LEAVE NEXT TUES. WITH TRACTOR FOR THE GRAET IOWA TRACTOR DRIVE. NEED YOUR HELP!! ONE OF THE FIVE OLIVER DRIVN BROTHERS FROM GALVA, NOW LIVING IN OKLAHOMA. BRUCE
Re(1): 1650
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 01:18:57 PM by Larry Harsin
I would suspicion that there is something going wrong in your injection pump. Take the fitting loose out of the top of the injection pump where the return lines are, and look for foreign particles. I suspect your governor ring in the pump is starting to break up. Larry
Oliver 770 HC
IP: 66.212.4.101 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 12:28:49 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I am having a problem with my 770 HC. When I have the throttle pulled half way or all the way down and I return it back to idle speed quickly it pops a few times for me then shoots an orange flame out the muffler. I know the books says the fuel mixture might be too lean, but I have it opened more than what they call for which makes it on the rich side. I changed the points, new plugs, new wires, new cap, rebuilt carb, and reset timing. Only thing I didn't replace is the coil. Could you please tell me what you think might be happening or is this normal. Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 HC
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 01:14:36 PM by Larry Harsin
It might be the fuel. Try a different batch of gas from somewhere and see if that makes a difference. It isn't uncommon for it to do this. Larry
60 Standard
IP: 207.176.197.111 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 07:49:13 AM by Steve Moser
I need help in locating a muffler and water temp. gauge and decals for my Dad's 60 .It has been in the family since new and is in excellant mech. condition but could use a little paint.I think it is a 1948 model according to the serial #412522 .I would also like the right paint codes. Thanks Steve
Re(1): 60 Standard
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 01:11:21 PM by Larry Harsin
For parts, contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. For decals, contact Lyle Dumont at: oliver@lisco.com. The green paint is Martin Senour 99L-8748. The red paint for the wheels is Martin Senour 99L-3752. The yellow for the grills is Dupont Dulux 029. You can get Martin Senour paint at NAPA. Larry
Fuel Sender Cross
IP: 12.78.153.221 Posted on June 14, 2002 at 06:54:00 PM by Mike B
Hi Larry, I am looking to buy a new fuel sending unit for my 1959 model 550 gas. Someone has one that looks very similar but it has part number 25-1000234. My part book lists number 101610-A. Can you provide any cross reference info if it will work in my application? Thank you, Mike
Re(1): Fuel Sender Cross
IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 07:09:10 AM by Larry Harsin
There are sending units on the market that are after market units. It will probably work. I do not have a cross reference. Larry
Oliver 1800
IP: 144.138.21.93 Posted on June 14, 2002 at 04:32:14 AM by Col Meacham
Larry I have recently been given a Oliver 1800 diesel tractor. I have been trying to get information on it and a parts outlet here in Australia without success as there appears not to be many olivers in Australia. I want to get it going if possible as it only needs limited parts. The information I have is; 1.Supplied in Australia by Farmers Centre, Dalby Queensland Australia. 2.Stock number 5002. (may be of use) 3.Engine number 8020708 4.Model number 38-4228. 5.Serial Number 139328899. (I believe this makes it a 1800C model made in 1963) 6.Exhaust manifold number 782250/DAZ - 215. Can you answer the following; 1.Is the engine a Perkins? 2.Is it a 1963, 1800C? 3.Do you know of any other Oliver owners in Austalia? 4.Do you know of any place I can obtain parts in Australia? 5.How and where can I obtain a manual for it. If I can get a manual and reasonable acces to parts, I am considering getting it working good enough for some light farmwork and later on, fully restoring it. I would be happy for this request to be past on to other people who may also be able to assist. All the best Col
Re(1): Oliver 1800
IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on June 15, 2002 at 07:05:58 AM by Larry Harsin
It is a 1963 1800C built with a Waukesha engine. It was 283 cubic inch when it was built. There are 7 members of the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. in Australia. 3 of them are in Victoria. There are 9 members in New Zealand. Our membership register is 2 yrs. old. You should get a membership in the HPOCA. Do this at: hpocacc@fiai.net. There will soon be a new directory being printed. Check with the forementioned email address about a current directory and about any Oliver dealers in Australia. I don't know of any. You can also get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from same email. A good source for parts is Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl in Sheldon IA USA. His phone number is 800-320-6224 or 712-324-4871. Larry
Oliver RC70 1937
IP: 63.175.166.61 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 09:42:14 PM by Jenn
Im restoring a 1937 Row crop 70, and I Would like to get a new steering wheel and decals... also if possible i would like to get the original gauges that went with the tractor. I was wondering if you have any ideas on where i could find these items
Re(1): Oliver RC70 1937
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 10:54:00 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get decals from Lyle and Helen Dumont at: oliver@lisco.com. For the steering wheel and gauges contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or Korves Bros at: korves@htc.net. Larry
1450 remotes
IP: 216.158.92.139 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 09:24:57 PM by dan riley
My 1450 has two remotes, I need four to run a round baler. What is the easiest way to accomplish this? Also I would like to know the rated horse power.Thankyou!
Re(1): 1450 remotes
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 10:50:22 PM by Larry Harsin
You should have an Operator's Manual. You can get one from: hpocacc@fiai.net. Check with T.H.E. Co. at: www.the-co.com On page 4-9 in their catalog they have listed triple valves in a kit with all tips, couplers and wiring. The 1450 has 70 hp. Larry
Oliver 77 Row Crop
IP: 209.217.169.196 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 09:10:39 PM by Martin Votruba
Larry, I just purchased this today. S/N 3265 R C 77 D I beleive it is a 1949, but unshure. I was wanting to know the horsepower. Any information greatly appreciated. Thank You, Martin
Re(1): Oliver 77 Row Crop
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 10:43:30 PM by Larry Harsin
There should be more numbers in your serial number. They are 6 digit numbers. The RC 77 D is what your tractor is. Look at the tag again and send it to us again. When the tractor was built, it had about 37 hp. Larry
660RC Decals
IP: 64.222.93.123 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 11:05:33 AM by V Clark
I am looking for the decals that were used on a 660 Row Crop The specification number is 36-1437. Can you tell me where I might find these? Thanks
Re(1): 660RC Decals
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 10:37:59 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get them from Lyle and Helen Dumont at: oliver@lisco.com. Larry
Super 55
IP: 64.254.202.69 Posted on June 12, 2002 at 08:40:59 PM by doug
Larry, I am going to look at a Super 55. Do these have independant pto's with a clutch? What things in particular should I check out on this tractor? Thanks! Doug
Re(1): Super 55
IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 06:11:25 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, they do. Does it run? Does it steer hard? Does everything work? Do the 3 pt. and PTO work like they should? Are the rear rims o.k. or rusted? Etc. Etc. Larry
1800 diesel & 1450w/loader
IP: 199.89.234.122 Posted on June 12, 2002 at 02:27:17 PM by andrew
What is fair market value for an 1800 diesel series A and an 1968 1450 w/oliver loader. On a scale of 1-10, both are at about a 7. I plan on using the 1450 for manure and other loader work, and the 1800 for a pto tractor. Also, what is the series A on the 1800 about?
Re(1): 1800 diesel & 1450w/loader IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 06:08:18 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1800, I would give a range of $2000 - $3500. The 1450 and loader, I'd give a range of $4500 - $7500. This is just a range. It depends on locality and other factors like tires, paint, are all the pieces there (side panels etc). The 1800's were produced in 3 series. The "A" is the first series. (Earliest produced. From 1960 - 1962) Sometimes, it is hard to find parts for these tractors. It is hard to find crank shaft bearings for the 1800A diesel. Larry
550 tire wheel?
IP: 65.129.144.179 Posted on June 12, 2002 at 08:58:43 AM by John
Larry, thanks for all the great info. I have 550 w/26" power adj rims. One rim rusted out bad. Local golf course has a pair of 28" power adj w/great ag tires for sale incl. wheels. Can I use these on my 550? See any problems? Bolt pattern (8 bolt) is the same.
Re(1): 550 tire wheel?
IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 06:01:39 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. You will have to measure it and make sure. If those don't fit, you can check with Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Or a local salvage yard. M.E. Miller Tire at Millertire.com also has power adjust rims. Larry
1850
IP: 67.28.94.36 Posted on June 11, 2002 at 05:40:56 PM by lonnie soulon
I have a 1850 gas that has a 1610 loader .It has a hydrolic problem the loader bucket drifts down and some times it will not lift .Also the 3point drifts down and now the stering has gone out , it will work if i use the loader to lift the front of the trator . I thank who were had this tractor before my used to lite of oil ? Can you give me some insite to this problem ? thanks lonnie.
Re(1): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on June 11, 2002 at 07:34:49 PM by Larry Harsin
If you are suspicious of the hydraulic fluid, I would change that first and then see what happens. To drain the unit, hook a hydraulic hose into one of the couplers and start the tractor and pump it out. The proper hydraulic fluid for warm weather is 20 wt. non-foaming hydraulic oil. I think you should get a pressure guage and check the pressure on the hydraulic couplers. You may have a bad hydraulic pump. You should have approx. 1800 lbs. of pressure. The problem with the bucket drifting down is a common problem on these units. I, myself, prefer connecting a 2 spool valve into the power beyond port for operating loaders. This will eliminate the drifting problem and the jerky operation of your loader. Larry
1655 Transmission Leak
IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on June 11, 2002 at 10:37:37 AM by Shep
Larry, I have an interesting leak on my 1655. It is leaking transmission oil right where the left side three point arm hooks. There appears to be about a 2 inch shaft that goes through the transmission under the PTO unit. I am assuming it is part of the draft control but it is leaking out around that shaft. Any ideas on how to fix this or what I am going to have to do here. I cant find anything in my repair manuels about this shaft or what is in there. Thanks for your help in advance.
Re(1): 1655 Transmission Leak
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on June 11, 2002 at 07:21:35 PM by Larry Harsin
There is a seal there that is leaking. To service it, the PTO unit will have to be removed from the tractor. Then you can get in there to unbolt the clamp that holds that shaft in position. Then remove it and replace the seal. Also, you will have to contend with the draft control spring (unfasten) before you remove that shaft. There should be a discussion of this in the Service Manual under Hydraulic and 3 pt. hitch System. Larry
Re(1): 1655 Transmission Leak
IP: 207.201.209.250 Posted on June 12, 2002 at 07:11:10 AM by Myron KY
Shep, If you have the I&T manual, the draft control is shown in figure 0160 and discribed in paragraphs 258, 259 and 260. Let me know and I'll try and email you a copy if needed. HTH Myron KY
Re(2): 1655 Transmission Leak
IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on June 12, 2002 at 09:07:48 AM by Shep
Thanks Larry, I will look in the manuel again and see if I can find it. Is the shaft in two parts or is it one shaft. I might as well replace the seals on both sides while I am doing it.
Re(3): 1655 Transmission Leak
IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 13, 2002 at 06:13:44 AM by Larry Harsin
It is in 2 pieces. Larry
77 wide front end
IP: 136.160.130.198 Posted on June 10, 2002 at 09:49:06 AM by Clint
How much for the 77-880 wide front ends you're selling?
Re(1): 77 wide front end
IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on June 11, 2002 at 05:43:21 AM by Larry Harsin I just sold it. I have a Wheatland that will fit a late Super 77 or 770 and 880. Larry Larry
Spun rod bearing-77
IP: 216.234.101.158 Posted on June 9, 2002 at 09:59:11 PM by Keddano
I got the 77 running,It's been sitting for over 7 years in a junkyard.Rebuilt the head.Fired it right up.Except...No oil pressure and a rod knock,also throw-out bearing bad.(now I know why it wound up in the junkyard.Pulled the pan,and #4 rod bearing was spun,oil pick-up was full of crude.The first question,The crank and rod don't look real bad.(can I polish both and put in new bearing,and maybe get away with it for a while?,.SecondCan the clutch and throw-out bearing be pulled without pulling the whole engine.I'm waiting for the service manual I ordered to come still.Thanks Dan
Re(1): Spun rod bearing-77
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on June 9, 2002 at 10:39:19 PM by Larry Harsin
I doubt if polishing the rod will work. The rod will probably have to be removed and resized. Polishing the crank might work. Also, be sure and check the oil spurt hole that is in the block. It may be plugged. The clutch and throw-out bearing can be pulled without pulling the whole engine. If the tractor is equipped with a belt pulley, this unit will have to be removed before you can service the clutch. Larry
FRONT CASTING
IP: 67.217.167.130 Posted on June 9, 2002 at 07:46:36 AM by Don Varnes
tHE CASTING ON 66 OLIVER IND IS THIS COMMEN TO ANY OTHERS ? I COULD USE ONE THE ONE THE AXEL IS MOUNTED TO.
Re(1): FRONT CASTING
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on June 9, 2002 at 10:47:10 PM by Larry Harsin
The only other Oliver that has this same casting is the 66 Standard. I don't know who might have one. You could check with Arnold Meyer at: almeyer@frontiernet.net or Doug Johnson at: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. Larry
1655 D
IP: 216.255.33.26 Posted on June 8, 2002 at 01:43:31 PM by Wayne Hess
Hi Larry: I have a new problem with the 1655. It has taken to not wanting to start after it has run awhile. No smoke , nothing. The engine just cranks. However, hook a chain to it and the second I dump the clutch she takes right off. Injectors, Pump are rebuilt. Any thoughts are appriciated.
Re(1): 1655 D
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on June 9, 2002 at 10:31:49 PM by Larry Harsin
Your transfer pump that feeds the fuel through the filters through the injection pump might not be doing it's job. It may have a bad check valve or something. Larry
Oliver 70 Ind year
IP: 64.91.162.93 Posted on June 6, 2002 at 04:57:30 PM by Eric Severance
Larry, and all. I have just purchased an Oliver 70 Ind with no serial tag, as there is a big weld on the block where it should be. Is there any other information on the tractor that would lead me to it's year, or even it's serial number ? Thank you
Re(1): Oliver 70 Ind year
IP: 209.163.7.45 Posted on June 6, 2002 at 06:49:17 PM by Larry Harsin
Look on the bottom of the casting on the transmission housing. Sometimes the day, month and year is cast in there. In that order. This tells you when that casting was poured and not the date the tractor was built, but it should be within a year of manufacture. There might be a number on the engine frame casting - same story. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 70 Ind year
IP: 64.91.161.71 Posted on June 7, 2002 at 09:04:09 PM by Eric Severance
Yes Larry, I have found the casting dates you mentioned. Thank you very much. They are both in April of 1946. So I think it is safe to assume it might be a 1946. This tractor has a Magneto ignition, and governor control up by the steering wheel. I think someone has adapted a steering box from a Row Crop to it because the gas tank straps do not line up with the gas tank support on the steering box. My question is: Are the governor control, and magneto politically correct for the year of the tractor ?
Re(3): Oliver 70 Ind year
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on June 8, 2002 at 05:47:39 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, they are. There is a chance the governor control was built on the tool box originally. Oliver came out with a change over kit later and most of these tractors have had that put in. Glad you were able to find the numbers and give a year to your tractor. Larry
Re(4): Oliver 70 Ind year
IP: 64.91.167.8 Posted on June 8, 2002 at 08:34:15 PM by Eric Severance
Thank you Larry. I am only in the "information stage" right now, but when I restore it, I like to have everything as correct as possible. I'm sure I will be back.