1800 oliver

IP: 205.200.48.119 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 08:29:02 PM by Al

Larry I have torn apart and replaced all the posssible gaskets, seals and o rings in the differential and the hydrualic pump. As soon as you activate the hydrualics the level drops in the tank and fluid is being forced out the vent hole again. What now?

Re(1): 1800 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:23:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Apparently the oil is getting through the hydraulic pump and getting into the transmission. Thus, it has a bad pump seal. If replacing the seal isn't working and you know you have it in correctly, you may have to get a new pump. Larry

1850 Oliver Oil Pump

IP: 63.165.0.30 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 01:31:32 PM by Tony Reid

I have a 1850 Oliver it has a 354 Perkins in it and has lost it oil pressure. I need to replace the oil pump but the problem is that I have ordered to different oil pumps and they were both wrong. The tractor is supposed to be a "1964" I believe this is the 1st year of the 1850. Another thing is the oil pumps I have been getting in are larger than mine and have a longer shaft. Have you ever run into this problem before or what would you suggest. Any help would be great.

Re(1): 1850 Oliver Oil Pump

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:19:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suggest removing the old pump and take it and show it to the parts man and try to get one like it. While you have it out, check out that pump and see if that is the problem. The problem might be something else in the engine. On some of those engines, the idler gears in the timing gear train are attached to the block with a bolt. This has been known to come loose. This results in a drop in oil pressure. What I am saying is, if you find there is nothing wrong with your oil pump, this might be the problem. Larry

880 3pt Hitch/PTO

IP: 207.108.61.34 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 12:54:12 PM by Gary

Hello Larry. Wonderful site! Very informative. Thank you for all you do for us. I noticed the post for a 3pt hitch and have a follow up question. I have an Oliver 880 1960 diesel. I want to add a 3pt hitch to run a brush hog. If I buy a newer brush hog will it work with the old PTO on the Oliver 880? Thank you, Gary

Re(1): 880 3pt Hitch/PTO

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:12:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. What does the brush hog dealer say? There could be a problem with the PTO drive line interferring with the 3 pt. hitch when raising and lowering. Larry

Differential Lockup 1270

IP: 64.228.164.53 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 04:42:11 AM by Dan Cottle

Hi. I have a 1270 Diesel with 2700 hrs on it. The other day the rear end started to lock up on tight turns with out the differential lock engaged. Once in a while (when turning) I hear a BANG! then it's OK for a short time. The differential lock seems to be OK. Any thoughts? Thanks Dan

Re(1): Differential Lockup 1270

IP: 67.2.249.128 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 11:07:09 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like there is something siezed up in the differential itself. You'll have to take it apart and see what you find. Larry

Super 55 Transmission

IP: 207.222.149.193 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 09:19:21 PM by Stephen Housley

Transmission won't go into neutral. With both coupling collars in neutral position the tractor still acts like it is in a high forward gear. Can't figure out why ? If I shift into any gear transmission is totally locked.Thanks for any ideas.

Re(1): Super 55 Transmission

IP: 67.2.249.87 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 11:48:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like there is a gear galded to the bushing that it turns on. When the shift collars are in the center position, you should be able to turn all of the gears. Find the one that is stuck to the collar and go from there. Larry

Summer starting

IP: 209.50.74.70 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 06:34:44 PM by Paul (ONT)

Hi Larry, Sorry to bother you, but I recently bought a 1650 diesel tractor with direct injection (roosa master pump) that had just had the motor rebuilt. It has been sitting for a long time without doing much, and once it gets started it runs well. My problem is how to get it started. It doesn't seem to be getting the fuel to the engine until after you crank it for at least 10 sec or so it starts smoking ad then another 10 sec later it starts. Its warm out here right now (yes it does get warm up in Canada) around 20 deg. C, so it should be starting at the turn of the key. Did you have any advise on how to get it fixed?? Would it be the fuel stop? Is there any way I can check if it is the fuel stop? I have injector cleaner in the fuel, doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I do have an electric fuel pump on it instead of the manual orignal one- it was replaced when it was rebuilt, could this have anything to do with it? Once it starts, it starts all of a sudden, no "half firing" and runs with smooth with a thin grey - white smoke that is hardly noticeable once it warms up. Sorry to have so much to say, I just want to make sure all of the specs are there... Thanks Larry, Paul (ONT)

Re(1): Summer starting

IP: 67.2.249.87 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 11:45:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Have the Roosa-Master pump checked out. It may be a bit weak for starting. Is your starter and batteries all up to specs - this is very important. If all of these check out and the starting doesn't improve, I would opt for an ether start system on it. They are ecomonical and they work great. Larry

firing order

IP: 4.157.26.75 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 01:39:59 PM by gregg

i have a oc4 3cyl oliver dozer vandels pulled off sparkplug wires we installed them how we thought they went but no start question is we would like to know proper firing order and what cyl to time from we have good spark and fuel and dozer ran good before tampered with

Re(1): firing order

IP: 67.2.249.87 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 11:39:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman 717-738-2573. He's a Cletrac Expert. Larry

Re(2): firing order

IP: 4.157.29.23 Posted on June 28, 2004 at 10:03:24 PM by gregg

thank you for the information

Governor

IP: 64.61.227.245 Posted on June 25, 2004 at 10:30:26 AM by Darrel Johnson

I have Super 66, and I had to repair the Carberator recentley, I then discovered that the governor was not working properly. I believe that the stop bolt is either broken or worn badly as I can not regulate the governor. Can parts be had or what. The motor searges all the time. thanks Darrel

Re(1): Governor

IP: 69.179.4.15 Posted on June 26, 2004 at 06:56:32 AM by Ron

If the governor was working before you removed the carburetor then it seems like you didn't reinstall/adjust it correctly. The Operator's Manual covers this.

Re(2): Governor

IP: 67.2.248.25 Posted on June 26, 2004 at 07:50:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the governor housing from the front of the engine and pull the governor out and inspect it for wear. I can just about say that you need a new thrust washer. Also, the bearing and washers between the weights and the fork - check them closely. Yes, parts are available. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(3): Governor

IP: 64.61.227.82 Posted on June 26, 2004 at 09:07:07 PM by Darrel Johnson

I found out when working on the Carberator that the governor was tyed down with wire. I think larry is right, even though I haven't had time to open up the governor, I'll be willing to bet it's worn inside. I do have a factory manuel for it, and it looks like you need some special tools to do some of the repairs. Thanks for the Advice Larry. Darrel

Won't start

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on June 24, 2004 at 08:30:04 AM by Joe Shaffer

Good Morning Larry Last night I was out on my 550 when it slowly just stopped running. I checked the points and the plugs, it has spark but seemed weak to me. I checked the carb and I'm getting gas. Is there something I'm missing??? I shot some starting fluid in the carb and it would hit once and then just stop. It has good crank over speed. Also the plugs were dry. Also is a 550 a positive + or neg - ground??? Thanks for your help. Joe

Re(2): Won't start

IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on June 25, 2004 at 06:13:37 AM by Larry Harsin

The 550 is positive ground. The first thing that comes to my mind is that the points may not be good. Otherwise, possibly a weak or broken wire somewhere between the switch and the coil or possibly a weak ignition coil. Larry

1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.71.172 Posted on June 23, 2004 at 09:49:25 PM by al

I had a problem with my hydrualics on my 1800 oliver.My hydrualic oil dropped to nothing in the tank. It was pushing oil through the vent hole on the front of the transmission, under the plate for the shifter. every time you would push the clutch in the oil was forced out the vent hole. The oil also somehow mixed with my gear oil becuase it was milky. I also had oil coming through the double shaft to the bellhousing. I tore the tractor apart and fixed the seal & gasket & o ring at the front of the transmission and I redid the gasket for the hydrualic block and top of the differential. Then when I used the hydraulics again, for a very short period it worked fine then the oil started to be pushed out again so I parked it. Did I blow the seals all over again or could it be something else? I would appreciate any info

Re(1): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on June 24, 2004 at 07:41:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you are losing hydraulic oil into the transmission some way. This is putting too much oil into the transmission, making the oil level way too high. The 2 main points of hydraulic oil entering the transmission is through the hydraulic pump seals or the draft control rod where it slides through the casting back by the bull gear. First you have to find out where it is leaking. The easiest one to check is to take the PTO out of the tractor and see if oil is coming out around that draft control rod. Larry

Re(2): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.63.81 Posted on June 24, 2004 at 09:21:10 PM by Al

When you take the hydraulic block off the differential to expose the top of the diff, there are three compartments. What type of oil should be in each compartment? In the hydraulic block what type of oil should be in the compartment with the hydraulic gear?

Re(3): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on June 25, 2004 at 06:19:42 AM by Larry Harsin

In the trans and diff, it should be 80 - 90 transmission grease. The hydraulic should use 10 or 20 weight hydraulic fluid. You should get an Operator's Manual. It would tell you all of these things. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at email: fchs@fiai.net. Also, before you start taking things apart, you should have a Shop Manual also. Larry

Re(4): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.48.118 Posted on June 25, 2004 at 08:25:55 PM by Al

what I meant was in all three compartments in the diff should there be gear oil in all or should any have hydrualic oil?

Re(5): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.248.25 Posted on June 26, 2004 at 07:54:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, all 3 should have gear oil. Larry

Re(6): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.48.156 Posted on June 26, 2004 at 07:14:04 PM by Al

Is there a chance that the lip on the hydraulic block is warped and not making a proper seal when bolted down to the diff?

Re(7): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 08:13:49 AM by Larry Harsin

That is not the problem that I usually find. It is usually the things we have already discussed. You really should have an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual for this operation. You can get them by emailing: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

1800 OLIVER DIESEL TRACTOR

IP: 205.188.116.14 Posted on June 23, 2004 at 09:00:25 PM by LEROY

WHERE TO FIND TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS FOR THIS TRACTOR????

Re(1): 1800 OLIVER DIESEL TRACTOR

IP: 67.2.248.33 Posted on June 23, 2004 at 09:31:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Larry

Oliver Super 88 Steering

IP: 216.19.8.99 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 00:12:32 AM by Jim

Larry, I posted a message on June 15th about a steering problem on my Oliver Super 88. At the time, I wasn't sure what kind of gearbox I had. I thought it said REMMER on the gearcase but it was partly worn off and after further investigation I discovered it has a GEMMER steering gearbox. It turns out that the tractor at one time had power steering but now the generator and power steering pump are long gone and the tractor has a one wire alternator. This is the way it was when I bought it. It steers easy like it is but there is a fair amount of play in the steering wheel and the tractor wants to shimmy when you get up in a higher gear. My question is: is there any way to stop the shimmy without putting the steering back to original with the generator and new pump? Can you adjust the free play out of the Gemmer steering box? Any help of advice would be greatly appreciated! The tie rods are all in good shape.

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 Steering

IP: 69.179.17.243 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 08:30:02 AM by Ron

Did you actually jack the front end up? Free play is usually not in the box, it's usually in the tie rod ends. The shimmy may be wheel bearings, easy to check with the front end up.

Re(2): Oliver Super 88 Steering

IP: 67.2.242.124 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 09:25:52 PM by Larry Harsin

I would reccommend that you dispense with the Gemmer Steering unit. It wasn't made to be used as a manual steering unit. You'll have to obtain a different pedestal with a Saginaw gear to change this over. You can check with local salvage yards for a pedestal. I may have one, but I don't know if I have the Saginaw gear. That Gemmer for a manual steering is just not strong enough. Larry

Rebuilt Engine Break-in

IP: 64.19.85.2 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 11:42:05 PM by Kris

Larry, what's your procedure for breaking in a rebuilt gas motor with new sleeves,pistons and rings?Thanks

Re(1): Rebuilt Engine Break-in

IP: 69.179.17.243 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 04:44:33 PM by Ron

Larry must be workin' so I'll tell you what I do. Run engine for 4-8 hours, change oil and filter. Do not lug the engine nor allow it to idle for long periods during this time. If you've done everything right, it's good to go!

Re(2): Rebuilt Engine Break-in

IP: 67.2.242.124 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 09:21:03 PM by Larry Harsin

I like to let the engine run for an hour or two at a fast idle. Then I retorque the cylinder head and adjust the valves. Then, I favor putting the engine to work, either out in the field or on a dyno. Let it run 2 - 4 hrs. at approx. 2/3 normal load and varying the load occasionally. Then you can put the engine to normal use. Larry

charging

IP: 66.35.139.204 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 11:21:59 AM by Brian Rotz

I have a super 77 diesel, The polarity is reversed, positive to ground. The tractor would barely start when I first bought it over the winter. battery seemed weak. How can I check to see if the charging system is working and it's just an bad wore out battery. It jumps off easily enough. Just don't know anything about this charging system.

Re(1): charging

IP: 67.2.242.124 Posted on June 22, 2004 at 09:17:34 PM by Larry Harsin

That system was built as a positive groung system. I would have the batteries charged and tested with a load tester. Larry

2255 Clutch Question

IP: 152.34.243.11 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 08:10:50 AM by Greg Davis

While using my 2255 as a pull back tractor at the local antique tractor pull on Sat. night the clutch stopped working. It wasn't slipping it would not release. The linkage looks good up to the throwout bearing (looking from the bottom access panel.) Do you think the problem is maybe the linkage at the top of the throwout bearing. (I'll look in the top access panel later.)Maybe it has slipped on the round shaft and is not pushing the throwout bearing far enough forward to disengage the clutch or maybe a finger could be broken on the pressure plate. I did adjust the clutch linkage as far as possible and could make the clutch slip/release in overdrive 6th gear by putting on both brakes. Thanks for all your help.

Re(1): 2255 Clutch Question

IP: 69.179.17.243 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 09:10:07 AM by Ron

Just a guess... not sure what you were pulling and how accurately the clutch was adjusted before but if it was slipping even a little it may have overheated to the point where the disc is now distorted. Hope you get lucky and it's something simple but more than likely you are going to have to pull it all apart and look at it.

Re(2): 2255 Clutch Question

IP: 152.34.243.11 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 10:40:27 AM by Greg Davis

Pulling back the pulling sled. Not much strain for a tractor this size. But who knows could have accidently heated it up. Thanks for the help. Greg

Re(3): 2255 Clutch Question

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 12:05:30 PM by Larry from MD

sounds like my 1600 when one of the finger rockers? cracked and split just enough to let it drag.

Re(4): 2255 Clutch Question

IP: 152.34.243.11 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 01:47:41 PM by Greg Davis

Someone also said it could be a locked up pilot bearing. They had seen that happen before. Greg

Re(5): 2255 Clutch Question

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on June 27, 2004 at 08:18:55 AM by Larry Harsin

It's possible. A note of caution: This tractor is difficult for even a professional to repair. I would strongly consider having a professional do this job. Larry

oliver planter parts

IP: 169.207.92.142 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 05:11:31 PM by Randy

looking for the 2 larger canisters for oliver horse drawn planter. where might I be able to find some?

Re(1): oliver planter parts

IP: 67.2.248.102 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 00:23:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You could check with Arnold Meyer. He might have some. Email him at: almeyer@frontiernet.net. Larry

Four-Digit series emblems

IP: 68.47.32.35 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 04:33:04 PM by David

Are all of the emblems on the side of the hood the same for all? Does anyone have a straight set? I think I can find stickers or have some made. I have a 1900A, but I like the "arrow" emblem better than the checkerboard like I have. Thanks, David

Re(1): Four-Digit series emblems

IP: 67.2.248.102 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 00:20:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 or with Worthington Ag Parts (Salvage) 800-533-5304. Larry

super 55 gas starter

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 02:53:08 PM by butch coulter

HELP I JUST GOT MY SUPER 55 (GAS) AND THE STARTER BROKE I NEED TO FIND ONE THAT WONT COST A ARM AND A LEG OR I WILL BE SLEEPING WITH THE TRACTOR (WIFE JUST DONT UNDERSTAND)I TOOK THE STARTER APART AND FOUND THAT WERE THE TOP SPRING OF THE GEAR IS THERE IS A LITTLE GROOVE THAT A CLIP GOES WELL RIGHT AT THE GROOVE IT BROKE OFF THANK YOU

Re(1): super 55 gas starter

IP: 69.179.17.243 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 03:43:21 PM by Ron

Look in your phone book under "alternator" or "starter" rebuilding. They work on tractor starters just like car starters. They may be able to replace the part and/or rebuild the starter for a reasonable price. Or check at NAPA, they carry rebuilts and are not expensive.

1650 gas

IP: 63.189.1.198 Posted on June 19, 2004 at 11:17:14 PM by Joe Gilliam

I would like to thank Shep Va for his suggestion of plumbing my 1755 steering cylinder into the return oil cooler. I've got 20 hours on it since and it is working like a champ. Now I'm hopeful someone can help me with my current problem. 15 years ago I bought a 1650 gas. Dad and I gave it a major overhaul including a new Mallory Distributor. The engine ran great except the exhaust would run cherry red to the top of the muffler. The water temp was fine but it was hard to shut off. It kept dieseling and you had to put it in gear to get it to stop. At the time an old Oliver mechanic happened by and suggested the timing was off. we had set it to factory specs, but he reset it by ear. He started it up approximately 5 times changing the distributor about 3 times. It worked, no more red exhaust. Last year it blew a piston and we didn't have time to overhaul it so we took it to a mechanic who reset the timing to factory specs. Now the manifold runs red again and its hard to shut off. Unfortunately the Oliver mechanic is no longer around to ask how he timed it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 05:53:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I think I would try a different carbureator on that engine. If you know of someone in your area who has a 1650, borrow his carb and try it on your tractor. I wouldn't set it other than factory specs. I think your engine is overfueled and causing the red manifold. Larry

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 69.179.17.243 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 09:43:52 AM by Ron

You are quickly destroying that engine running it that hot. The 1650 spec is 0 deg advanced (static at idle). It's very possible that either the vacuum advance or centrifugal advance in that distributor is malfunctioning. Here's how to tell: Remove the vacuum line at the manifold and tap your vacuum gauge into the manifold. Hook up your timing light to #1. Now start the engine, let warm up, and adjust the distributor advance until you get the highest steady reading on your vacuum gauge. Then check the advance with your timing light. If it is not within a few degrees of 0, or the timing is all over the place, the distributor is toast. If that's OK, then throttle the engine up to 2,200 rpm. Check the timing again. It should be within a few degrees of 22 advanced. If not the centrifugal advance mechanism in the distributor is broken. If that's OK, then operate the tractor with the vacuum advance disconnected. Be sure to put a pipe plug in the manifold hole when you remove your vacuum gauge. Then operate the tractor. If the problem goes away, then the vacuum advance mechanism in the distributor is broken. If none of this helps, then you have a serious vacuum leak which is causing an extremely lean condition. The way to tell is that your idle vacuum reading should be about 19". If not, post back and I'll tell you what to look for.

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 63.190.97.201 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 09:14:12 PM by Joe Gilliam

When I overhauled 15 years ago the Oliver dealer couldn't replace the old distributor with a factory. He substituted a new Mallory distributor that is not a vacuum advance system. Any other suggestions?

Re(2): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.248.102 Posted on June 21, 2004 at 00:15:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with all that Ron says - it is all good information. However, the Mallory distributor does not use the vacuum advance system, so that is dispensed with. The timing specs for the Mallory are as follows: Static timing at Idle speed is "0" degrees, Advanced timing with the engine wide open is .022. I feel there is a good chance that the carb is overfueling your engine. I would try a different one. With this engine running wide open, you should be able to turn that load needle in and make that engine starve for fuel. If your present carb will not starve that engine, you have the problem right there. One possibility, the adjusting needle for the load, is not going into the seat where it adjusts the fuel. I have seen many of these this way. Sometimes, you can correct this. The Parts Manual for that carb, should show a different type of load needle, which you should be able to obtain from your AGCO Dealer. However, you may be able to solve this by simply reinstalling the load needle in your present carb properly. This is a "hit and miss" procedure, but when you have it done right, you can cause that engine to starve when you keep turning that needle "in" or leaner. I have seen them come from the factory when they'd run hot because the needle wasn't in the hole. Larry

Oliver row crop 70

IP: 205.188.116.14 Posted on June 18, 2004 at 09:06:30 PM by Shane K

Hello Larry, I have just purchased an Oliver row crop 70 with the S/N 267481. I have looked every where for the year but the last serial number I can find listed is 262840. Could you help me or link me to a site with the information I need Thanks, Shane

Re(1): Oliver row crop 70

IP: 67.2.248.118 Posted on June 19, 2004 at 12:39:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Our listing shows that in 1948, (the last year that they built 70 RC) they began the year with serial number 262840. They ended production of them that year with the serial number 267866. This tells me that your 70 RC was one of the later ones built in 1948. Larry

Super 55 Hydraulic Capabilities

IP: 208.0.27.16 Posted on June 17, 2004 at 07:24:08 AM by Travis Kettering

I recently purchased a 6 foot woods brushhog to use behind my Oliver Super 55. It weighs around 700lbs. The problem I am having is that the tractor won't pick the brushhog up off of the ground. Is the brushhog to heavy for the tractor or do I have a problem with my hydraulic system? If I have a problem with the hydraulics, where should I start looking? Thanks.

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulic Capabilities

IP: 67.2.242.35 Posted on June 17, 2004 at 07:57:08 AM by Larry Harsin

If that 700 lbs were up next to the tractor, it would probably lift it, but it sticks back a ways making it harder to lift. Plus, I'm sure your pump isn't as strong as it was 15 yrs. ago. The first thing I would do, if it hasn't been changed lately, is put in new hydraulic fluid and change the filter. See if this helps. If you decide you need to do some repairs, before you do anything, get a Service Manual from Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. If you need further help for parts or whatever, let us know. Larry

super 55 (gas)

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on June 16, 2004 at 04:52:15 PM by butch coulter

i just got my first tractor which is a super 55 (gas) it is in nice shape everything is there runs real nice is there anything i should know about this model thank you butch coulter

Re(1): super 55 (gas)

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on June 16, 2004 at 11:39:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing, did you get an Operator's Manual with it. I highly reccommend that you get one, if you didn't. You can get one from the Musuem in Charles City. Email them at fchs@fiai.net. The next thing to do is to change the transmission fluid and the hydraulic fluid and the engine oil, unless you know that they have been changed recently. Check the condition of the anti freeze. If it isn't rusty, I would add a can of rust inhibitor. If it is rusty, I would drain it and put in new anti freeze. Make sure the PTO Clutch snaps over when you engage it. It is important to keep this adjustment in proper order. This is covered in the Operator's Manual. Larry

Oliver Super 88 steering

IP: 216.19.8.230 Posted on June 15, 2004 at 11:58:39 PM by Jim

Larry, I have a 1955 Oliver Super 88, row crop, diesel, wide front tractor. The steering gearbox seems to have a lot of free play in it, is there any adjustment for this? If so how is it done? The steering box has "REMMER" printed on it and it does not have power steering. Also where is the best place to look for new tie rod ends? Thanks for your help!

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 steering

IP: 67.2.249.94 Posted on June 16, 2004 at 07:40:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Most of the S88's with adjustable wide fronts, had a Saginaw steering box under the radiator. They are adjustable. There was a Gemmer unit used on some of the early Industrials, but I have not seen them used in the Row Crops. There is a Gemmer unit used it the late S88's and that was power steering. So I am at a loss as to what you have. Check to see that the output shaft and the steering arm are tight and if they aren't, try to tighten them. Check the condition of the universal joint next to the steering gear. Some of the automotive supply stores have tie rod ends. However, I order mine from my AGCO Dealer. Valu-Bilt might have the ones you need, 888-828-3276. Larry

1355 diesel

IP: 4.23.226.33 Posted on June 15, 2004 at 03:23:35 PM by Gary

My 1355 diesel had low oil pressure. Oil light would not go off. Dealer said the problem was main bearings. I found that the bearings were bad and I replaced them. I also checked the oil pump and relief valve. Any other checks or measurements I shoud make?

Re(1): 1355 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.132 Posted on June 15, 2004 at 10:05:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I would definately check the rod bearings also, and replace them as necessary. I assume that you have already checked the oil pump and the inlet screen. After all of this, you should be in good shape. Larry

oliver 1550 paint codes

IP: 24.12.40.251 Posted on June 14, 2004 at 09:44:47 PM by Roger

I'm looking for the correct paint codes for the green and the white on a 68' oliver 1550.

Re(1): oliver 1550 paint codes

IP: 67.2.242.29 Posted on June 15, 2004 at 07:54:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The paint is Meadow Green and Clover White. The best and cheapest place to purchase them is from your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, you can order them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Or if you perfer to have them mixed, the Meadow green is Martin Senour 99L-3752. The Clover white is Dupont GS001 + 6 grams of 8071 (black) + 7 grams of 841 (yellow) per pint. Or, this Clover white: PPG-DAR 46536. Larry

1650 engine removal - how to remove PTO

IP: 65.227.45.109 Posted on June 13, 2004 at 09:38:20 AM by Joel Meinders

I am pulling a 1650G motor...I had earlier posted about having water in oil. I need to do a rebuild - I think the wet sleeves leaked and the bearings are shot. My problem is that I don't know how to "pull the PTO" as indicated by the manual. As my luck would have it, my new Oliver service manual from Floyd Co Museum is missing the the first six pages of the PTO section E10-10 pages 1 thru 6. When time permits, I think I will type up a needed table of contents or index for this manual. By the way, I also ordered the new tractor engine rebuild video covering the 1650 but it has not come in yet...I will post on this when I get a chance to view it. Do I need to pull the entire cast assembly off of the rear end housing as a unit? Or do I need to pull the small cover and pull the shaft and clutch assembly? I don't know how to approach either. I could use some tips on how to do this also. Someone also recommended that I pull the engine clutch and direct drive out with the engine. Is this correct? Larry, what years were you at Van Zee's in Pella? My dad, Nick, bought our 1650 from Van Zees in the early 70's. A few of my dad's cousins from the area also are dedicated Oliver farmers - Marv and Clarence Meinders and children. Well, I got to go...church this morning. Guess what I will be day dreaming about if the sermon is a little slow. Thanks again, Joel Meinders

Re(1): 1650 engine removal - how to remove PTO

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 13, 2004 at 12:01:08 PM by Jerry Ulmer

I have new, clean original 1750 and 1850/1950 service manuals. Comparing the two, only the heading and publication dates at the bottom differ. If the pros tell you they are the same as a 1650, could photo copy and send you copies of your missing pages. JU Box 580, Lockney, Texas 79241 806/292-8475

Re(1): 1650 engine removal - how to remove PTO

IP: 192.223.6.251 Posted on June 13, 2004 at 10:22:43 PM by Jim Meade

Take off the cover plate that is above the PTO shaft. Take out the snap ring. Now, you'll need a puller. Mine is a piece of 1/2" rod about 12" long and threaded on both ends. On one end I have a nut welded on so it is like a bolt head. On the other end run a nut down about 1/2" and spot weld it on the back side. Use this tool to remove the plug. Ahead of the plug will be an o-ring. Get a pick or whatever and pull it out. Screw the tool into the PTO shaft and remove it. You have to line up the splines as it comes out. Sometimes it comes clean the first time and sometimes it takes a certain amount of verbal abuse to get it to come. Patience is good. Some use a pipe wrench or impact wrench to turn the PTO shaft while pulling, but I'd try it by hand first. When the shaft is out inspect the splines to see if they are OK or if you need to replace it.

Re(2): 1650 engine removal - how to remove PTO

IP: 65.227.45.112 Posted on June 13, 2004 at 12:53:23 PM by Joel

Thanks much for the offer. I plan Monday to call Mary Ann at Floyd County Museum and get the missing pages. I am just curious and anxious to find out what the procedure is.

Re(3): 1650 engine removal - how to remove PTO

IP: 67.2.248.81 Posted on June 14, 2004 at 00:09:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1650 is completely different than the instructions above which are for the 1850. On the 1650 you remove the 4 (5/16") cap screws that secure the cover to the tractor. When you remove this cover, you will lose a small amount of oil. Now, you are going to see a cast iron drive hub with a small snap ring securing the hub to the shaft. Do not remove this!! There are 2 holes in the cast drive hub, for access to the snap ring that you need to remove from the groove in the PTO hub. You will need a Tru-Arc snap ring plier to squeeze the snap ring together so that you can bring it out of that groove. Then before trying to slide the clutch drive shaft hub and shaft assembly out, you should engage the PTO clutch so that the plates will remain in position for reassembly. You will need a pry bar, such as a big screwdriver on each side to move the drive hub back, bringing also the shaft. The under drive unit should be removed with the engine, and then taken off of the engine after you have set the engine down on the floor. The last issue of the HPOCA magazine had a very detailed article about removing PTO shafts. I left Van Zee Impl. in 1964 and I don't remember your relatives. Larry

water in transmission

IP: 216.241.137.236 Posted on June 12, 2004 at 03:38:37 PM by Don

I have an Oliver 770 gas and it seems there is water in the transmission oil as it's milky white. My manuel says to use SAE 10W30 with an additive 102082-A. I can't seem to find the additive. Can I substitute 80/90 oil or something else? Thanks for your help

Re(1): water in transmission

IP: 69.179.15.170 Posted on June 12, 2004 at 05:46:30 PM by Ron

You don't need the additive but you must use 10W30. More important, you must find and correct the cause of the water entry... most likely a torn/missing shifter boot. Once you correct that, then I'd drain the oil and replace with fresh.

Re(2): water in transmission

IP: 67.2.249.82 Posted on June 13, 2004 at 07:59:35 AM by Larry Harsin

If you don't have a power booster, I would use 80/90 transmission oil. If you do have a power booster, I use Hy-Tran from Case/IH, or the equivalent. Larry

1850 gas

IP: 65.173.213.167 Posted on June 9, 2004 at 11:33:03 AM by Alan W

I just bought a 1850 gas with the 310 motor The fuel pump is bypassed and the fuel line just runs from the tank to the carb.Will this tractor starve for fuel under a heavy load? i don't know why the pump is bypassed if I need to hook it back up can I buy a rebuild kit for it? This motor has 3 15/16 M&W's in it what horsepower would it have?? Thanks!!!

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on June 10, 2004 at 00:19:48 AM by Larry Harsin

It's likely to give trouble. I'd try it the way it is, and if it works o.k., I'd leave it alone. If it doesn't, and acts like it is starving, I would get a new pump and install it. I doubt if there is a rebuild kit available. An auto parts store should be able to supply a new pump. That motor will have approx. 100 hp., or it should anyway. Larry

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on June 10, 2004 at 06:48:23 AM by Ron

Most fuel pumps get disconnected just like yours. Be sure you have the proper size gas line running downhill to the carb and that you use an inline automotive type filter and it'll be fine.

440 Oliver

IP: 206.185.64.25 Posted on June 9, 2004 at 08:02:49 AM by Chad Marti

I am looking for a nose and grill for a 440 Oliver, any information would be greatly appreciated. Respectfully yours; Chad Marti Tele. 608-343-3974

Re(1): 440 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.63 Posted on June 10, 2004 at 07:21:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Ollie Schaefer 618-664-3050 or email him: olliesch@papadocs.com. Larry

belts

IP: 24.28.82.151 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 01:24:01 PM by reginald harris

sir i think i have a 77 series oliver ,and this is the first time ever having a real tractor. yes i am a rookie , anyway, how do you change the generator belt on this thing? how do i get the fan belt off so i can put the alternater belt on. please help grass is getting high. plus where can i get a service manuel for this tracter or some type of diagram to do this? thank you, reginald harris

Re(1): belts

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 11:35:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. To replace the fan belt and the generator belt, you must first loosen the 3 one quarter inch bolts on the crankshaft pulley. Then gently tap on the back flange that moves in the slot, until you get the back half backed away fully. Now you will be able to remove the belt between the engine and the fan. The big belt can be taken off by working it out over the fan blades, one at a time. Also, you can take the generator belt and replace it the same way, by working it out over the fan blades, one at a time. Larry

880 gas starvation?

IP: 66.43.210.130 Posted on June 7, 2004 at 10:34:27 PM by Jim Meade

I bought an 880 that had sat for many years. Removed tank and cleaned it with high pressure water and soap. What is the best way to be sure the tank is clean and all the varnish is out? Replaced the fuel filter that screws into the carburater. The tractor starts easily but soon runs only on full choke. Gas runs readily and sediment bulb is clean except for a few very fine flakes of possibly rust. Screen is intact. This 880 has a Marvel Schebler 610 carburetor. I assume it is off a S88, as 880 is listed to have the Zenith 62 series. Anything wrong with leaving this carb on the tractor? I'm thinking of taking the carb apart. Are there any other things I should check first? I was told that a weak coil can mimic carb problems. Any suggestions welcomed.

Re(1): 880 gas starvation?

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 02:04:06 AM by Ron

A common problem is the wrong gas cap or one with a clogged vent. Easy to tell, next time the engine starts to die, remove the cap. It's true that a defective coil can quit after a few minutes as it overheats but that's not your problem.

Re(2): 880 gas starvation?

IP: 67.2.242.16 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 06:52:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Also, I think you should take the carb. apart and clean it. You may want to install a new float valve (a new needle and seat) if that is sticky. A Marvel 610 carb should work fine on that tractor. Larry

Re(3): 880 gas starvation?

IP: 66.43.210.143 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 07:24:04 PM by Jim Meade

I took the carb apart and it is clean. Blew air through all ports and they are clear. Had an old Oliver mechanic look at it and he says it looks OK, give it a try. BTW, I gave the wrong info - this is a MS TSX 807, such as was on the 1650/55 and 1800. I don't think it's the fuel cap, as I get good fuel flow at the carb even immediately after the problem, but it is a good idea and I'll be sure to check it out. Will try it as soon as I get the gasket set. If that doesn't work, I'll do a kit on it. Thanks for the suggestions.

Re(4): 880 gas starvation?

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on June 9, 2004 at 07:41:47 AM by Ron

The TSX is sensitive to float level. AGCO rebuild kits contain the gaskets, hard parts, and a float gauge. Be certain the float is assembled correctly and does not hang up on the gasket. On an 807, the idle mixture screw should be about 2 turns out, the high speed screw (the fat one) should be about 3.5 turns out. If you still have the problem, you may have a vacuum leak between the intake manifold and head or carburetor and intake manifold. Easy enough to find with a can of choke cleaner while the engine is running. If you find one, check the part with a steel straigtedge. If you see light, have it ground flat. Do not try to make up for it by overtightening the bolts. If I had a dollar for every TSX carburetor I've seen with one of the ears snapped off...

550 clutch plate

IP: 166.82.102.63 Posted on June 7, 2004 at 05:16:00 AM by James Alexander

while installing a rebuilt clutch and pressure plate in my '59 550D, It looks like the clutch plate hub will interfere with the pto drive hub if I install it with the clutch hub away from the flywheel-or as any clutch is normally installed. Does this clutch plate install the other way? There is enough room to clear the flywheel either way. Thanks, James

Re(1): 550 clutch plate

IP: 67.2.248.234 Posted on June 7, 2004 at 07:43:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Try it with the hub toward the flywheel and if it doesn't interfere with it, that is the way to do it. It is just the opposite of what you think it would be. Larry

oliver 60 R.C.

IP: 66.243.200.58 Posted on June 6, 2004 at 09:26:54 AM by Ron Grother

I was told that some 60s had 28" rear cast centers the number I have H705-G did any other tractors come with these centers I would like to find a Set as I am going to do a wide front 60 this winter Thanks Ron

Re(1): oliver 60 R.C.

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on June 6, 2004 at 11:43:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I have seen only 2 or 3 60's set up that way. It was an option when they bought the tractor, but not many were done like that. That option is not shown in any of the parts books. They were offered only on the real late 60's. I don't know of any for sale. You could put an ad in the HPOCA magazine and/or Antique Power magazine. If you need the addresses, email me. Larry

Hey!! I have a 1948 60 RC Narrow front with those rear wheels. Post back if you would like me to e-mail some pictures. These wheels along with the tractor are NOT for sale. I've been looking for 20 years and have yet to find another set like them. The only problem with my wheels is that I replaced the steel rims with a set of aftermarket ones. The original rims used cast wedges to hold them on. These new rims have the wedge built into the rim. The original rim was a 10" with a 11-28 tire, I now run a 12" with a 13.6-28 tire.

Re(3): oliver 60 R.C.

IP: 204.252.182.86 Posted on June 20, 2004 at 10:15:42 PM by don

I just ran across your post about the odd rear wheels. If you don't mind I would like to see your pictures. Thanks

Oliver S77 diesel fuel leak

IP: 67.208.3.125 Posted on June 5, 2004 at 08:28:40 PM by Blaine

I loosened the fuel injector lines to bleed air after changing fuel filters. Now the line to no.6 fuel injector seeps fuel where it attaches to the injector. I replaced the line with another fuel line and the leak was the same. What can I do to stop this leak?

Re(1): Oliver S77 diesel fuel leak

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on June 6, 2004 at 08:48:18 AM by Ron

Sounds like the threads on the injector are dirty/damaged preventing proper tightening.

Re(1): Oliver S77 diesel fuel leak

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on June 5, 2004 at 09:18:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Just keep working on it, there is still something not right. It's a compression fitting and you just keep working til it quits leaking. Larry

Re(2): Oliver S77 diesel fuel leak

IP: 67.208.3.27 Posted on June 11, 2004 at 01:17:31 PM by Blaine

Thanks for your advice. I found the compression fitting loose on the fuel line on both lines that I installed. I cleaned the compression fitting and silver soldered it to the steel fuel line and reinstalled. I think this will fix it.

1800 GAS??

IP: 65.173.213.167 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 05:24:54 PM by JIM G

I bought a motor that is supposed to be a 1800b gas the numbers on the block read; 221320 163371A 966 It does have the 12 port head and it has 3 15/16 M&W's in it.Could you tell me if this did come out of a 1800?? Thanks Larry

Re(1): 1800 GAS??

IP: 67.2.248.72 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 11:49:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that 163371A is a 1750 gas number and it should work fine. Larry

1850 hydraulics

IP: 165.234.88.5 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 01:56:11 PM by Dan F

I have an 1850 rowcrop with 3 pt, Where can I connect hoses to run an external valve assembly for my loader and still use my remotes and 3 pt? I currently have the hydraulic unit off because the cotter pin in the gear between the hydraulic pump drive gear on the pto shaft and the gear in the hydraulic housing came out allowing the shaft to move backward and it wore a hole in the front of the hydraulic resevoir. I plan to replace the pump while I have it out. My Agco dealer shows part # 303060799 for almost $1100. I've found several sites online advertising a pump which replaces #303062449 for under $400. Do you know what the difference in these part numbers is?

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.72 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 11:46:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The experience I had was with a pump furnished by A & I Industries from Rock Valley Iowa. This pump worked fine and was less than half the price of the pump from AGCO. My AGCO Dealer obtained this pump for me. Your AGCO Dealer could do the same. My AGCO Dealer is Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. To answer your question about the remotes. On the left front corner of the cover that bolts onto the hydraulic housing, this point is directly below the seat bracket on the left front corner, there is a 1/2 inch socket head pipe plug pointing towards the front of the tractor. Remove this. You may have to use a little heat on that cast to help loosen this plug. Look in the hole and you will see back in there 2 1/2 inches or so, that the passage is threaded. Also, as you look in there, you should see where a pipe plug pointing towards the fender is. You will need to obtain a 3/8 socket head pipe plug to block this passage. Now the oil will come out at the front where you removed the plug and go to your external valve. Then it will return from the external valve and go in where the plug was pointed toward the fender. These 2 points are on the cast lid that bolts onto the hydraulic unit and is above the power steering flow divider. Larry

550 electrical

IP: 24.213.63.2 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 10:29:06 AM by Adam Anderson

Larry, I have a 1970 550 gas that is having some electrical problems. sometimes when I shut the tractor off the "key-on" buzzer stays on. It does not stay on while it is running, just when the key is on and the engine isnt spinning. And now it will buzz even after the tractor is tuned off. I tried replacing the ignition switch, wich didnt help. Also, there is a black wire that comes out of the harness by the voltage regulator. The wire has 12v when the key is on but there doesnt seem to be any spots for it on the regulator. Any advicce you could give me would be very much appreciated or maybe where I could get a wiring schematic. I already bought a sevice manual, but it dosn't have any wiring diagrams in it. Thank you, Adam

Re(2): 550 electrical

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 12:32:34 PM by Larry from MD

The points in the voltage regulator could be stuck closed.With the switch off the cutout points should be open remove the cover and pull them apart.lightly file or sand the points and they should go back to working.this happens when a battery or battery cables are hooked backwards.

Re(3): 550 electrical

IP: 67.2.248.72 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 11:40:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Larry fromMD has given you a good answer. There are wiring diagrams in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City by emailing her at: fchs@fiai.net. Some of the I & T Manuals don't have wiring diagrams, so get an Oliver Manual. Larry

buying 1750 diesel

IP: 65.25.221.106 Posted on June 3, 2004 at 11:56:50 PM by don moyer

Hi Larry. I'm considering buying a 1750 diesel, but I have to admit that I know next to nothing about Olivers. I've read in your archives and on another website that the 310 Waukesha engine had somewhat of a bad reputation; one posting saying that they had crankshaft problems. Is that true? It also sounds like the 1750 could have either the Waukesha engine or a Perkins. Is the Perkins a better unit? This tractor is pretty clean, and runs well. It has 4400 hours, has never had major engine work, and is selling for $5500. Thanks for any advise you may have!

Re(1): buying 1750 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 11:42:37 PM by Larry Harsin

If it hasn't had any engine work, it will probably need it soon. I would say it is a bit over priced for not having had any engine work done on it. The 1750 has a 310 Waukesha engine and it is a good engine. They did have some problems, but nowadays, they install a new one piece connecting rod bushing and stronger connecting rod bolts and this helps these engine problems. My experience has been that with 4500 hours on an original engine, more than likely, the crankshaft will have to be removed and ground to an undersize. Larry

Re(1): buying 1750 diesel

IP: 66.43.210.143 Posted on June 8, 2004 at 07:26:18 PM by Jim Meade

I don't think the 1750 had a Perkins. The 1850 did. The 1750 is a nice tractor. That might be a little on the high side of price, but then I'm no expert on that.

Re(2): buying 1750 diesel

IP: 65.25.221.101 Posted on June 9, 2004 at 11:18:45 PM by don moyer

Thanks Larry for your response, I do appreciate it! Thanks Jim for the information. After doing a little additional research, I think you're right about the price being on the high side.

880 industrial

IP: 207.121.97.159 Posted on June 3, 2004 at 12:09:45 PM by Al Clapp

I am looking for a Front Bolster for a 1960 880 Industrial Diesel w/o power steering but I don't have the Casting Number requested by the salvage yards (Possibly Broken Off). Can anyone provide this number?

Re(1): 880 industrial

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on June 4, 2004 at 08:37:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The old number was K501D. Then it was replaced with 107690A. So you may want to check for either of these numbers. I have a bolster here, that is off of a 4 digit tractor, but there is no number on it. But according to my parts book, it may be the piece that you are looking for. I don't know how to determine if this one will work for you. Off hand, I would say it would fit. If you are interested in this one at all, email me. Larry

880 Governor

IP: 216.190.67.113 Posted on June 1, 2004 at 10:45:33 PM by Steve Merritt

I have an 880 gas. I don^(1)t think the governor is functioning properly. As I slowly load the engine, the engine rpm^(1)s start to drop. As it drops through rated engine speed, the rpm^(1)s continue to drop but more slowly. If you hold the load, the engine rpm^(1)s remain constant. When I check the position of the butterfly, it is not all the way open. I can manually open the butterfly and produce more power. As you load the engine, shouldn^(1)t the governor open the butterfly until it is wide open before the rpm^(1)s start to drop? Here^(1)s some more information that might help. I had a difficult time setting the high idle no load engine speed. Depending on how fast I pulled down on the governor control lever, the high idle speed varied. If I pulled slow, the high idle would be about 200 rpm slower than if I pulled the lever fast. Also, I can screw out the bumper screw all the way out and I can^(1)t make the engine scavenge. The only thing I can think could be the problem is the thrust sleeve is sticking on the shaft. What do you think? Thanks

Re(1): 880 Governor

IP: 67.2.242.35 Posted on June 2, 2004 at 00:15:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is for a broken butterfly shaft in the carb. If that is o.k., I would remove the governor from the engine and check the condition of the assembly. You will probably find a worn governor thrust washer, which is part number K-289. Also, look for a worn thrust bearing and spool assembly and also look for worn pins on the fly weights. If you have worn pieces, get them all replaced. Then reassemble the governor and adjust all the linkages as per the Operator's Manual. Then your governor should work properly. Concerning the main governor spring, I usually set up used ones with 19 active coils. Larry

Re(2): 880 Governor

IP: 216.190.67.67 Posted on June 3, 2004 at 11:35:00 PM by Steve Merritt

The butterfly shaft is good. I took apart the governor. There appeared to be no excessive wear. The thrust washer was .060 thick, which appears to be good. The only area that may have excessive wear is on the fly weights where they contact the thrust sleeve. The shiny (worn) area is about .130 (dimension perpendicular from pivot pin). In my opinion, this wear is accounted for when setting the linkages per the manual (which I have done several times). The active coils on the governor spring is 19. Any more thoughts? Thanks again.

Re(3): 880 Governor

IP: 67.2.242.16 Posted on June 5, 2004 at 07:23:03 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't have. Just make sure there is no binding anywhere on the throttle shaft or linkage and set it up according to the instructions and it should work fine. Also, make sure that when you bolt on the air cleaner, that it doesn't rub on any of the linkage. This is a common problem. Larry

oliver super 88

IP: 64.136.27.228 Posted on June 1, 2004 at 08:46:13 PM by rick gruber

what would cause a grinding noise when backing up only happens when tractor is hot and how often should i grease the back wheels and how much grease should i give

Re(1): oliver super 88

IP: 67.2.242.35 Posted on June 2, 2004 at 00:07:14 AM by Larry Harsin

My firsrt inclination would be that you have a worn bushing on the reverse idler. If so, you'll have to get a Shop Manual from Mary Ann at email: fchs@fiai.net. Rear axle bearings need only 1 or 2 pumps of a grease gun every 10 hrs. of use. Larry

PTO control valve

IP: 205.242.56.60 Posted on June 1, 2004 at 06:43:59 PM by Tony Marietta

Hi Larry i have 1755/1971 that i have trouble with. In the I.T shop manual it talks about a 3/16th check ball & sping.It dosn't detail where it actualy goes. It give a wornnig on being careful on not to lose them.The pto has been slipping when attached to eqiutment.There is also a bolt at the bottom of the control valve with a lock nut that isn't shown in the I.T. Manual.Its posible that the previose owner could have lost the ball & spring . Can you give me some info on this subject? Replies:

Re(1): PTO control valve

IP: 67.2.249.176 Posted on June 3, 2004 at 00:07:24 AM by Larry Harsin

In the picture, in my Oliver Shop Manual, it shows it coming in from the side, closer to the top of the valve than what you describe. My Oliver Shop Manual doesn't show a lock nut at the bottom. You can get a ball and spring from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 80-320-6224. He will explain how to put it on. Larry

Oliver 125 Mower

IP: 69.66.71.7 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 11:09:11 PM by Mike

Larry I am restoring a Oliver 125 lawnmower and the frame and motor is black. Do you have a recommendation of where I might find the correct black or do you think I could just use any gloss black paint?

Re(1): Oliver 125 Mower

IP: 67.2.249.133 Posted on June 1, 2004 at 07:07:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Duane Starr at email: bastar@inetnebr.com or Lyle Dumont at email: oliver@lisco.com. Either of these guys can tell you. Larry

Wiring a diesel

IP: 24.52.190.145 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 06:03:39 PM by Mike

Larry, I have a 1955 Oliver diesel Super 77 ever since I bought it, it has not charged properly. The alternator is now rebuilt and has an internal regulator. I do not know that much about wiring and cannot find a diagram to help me out. The tractor does not have any switch, just the rod down to the starter to push to engage the starter. I do have a 60 ammeter guage for it, but don,t get any reponse from it so I don,t believe I have it wired correctly. Could you help me on wiring this or providing a wiring diagram for a " diesel" engine without an ignition switch. People have sent me diagrams, but they are for engines with distributors and coils and switches. Thanks!

Re(1): Wiring a diesel

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 09:34:02 PM by Larry Harsin

There is not a wiring diagram for your application because your tractor was not built with an alternator originally. Originally, there were 2 wires that went to the voltage regulator. Now, there will be 1 wire going from the ammeter to the alternator. Then on the other side of the ammeter, a wire will come off and go to the light switch and to the post on the preheater switch that the starter cable attaches to. This way you should get a reading on your ammeter. If the ammeter shows discharge when you start your engine, simply reverse the wires on the ammeter and it should work. Larry.

Oliver 550 Steering Sectors

IP: 206.176.206.59 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 05:01:26 PM by Kerry Brunner

Can the steering sectors from a late model Ford 8N be used for a manual steering 1964 Oliver 550??? they appear very similar!

Re(1): Oliver 550 Steering Sectors

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 09:20:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I think they are, but I'm not 100% sure. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry

Re(1): Oliver 550 Steering Sectors

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 2, 2004 at 00:41:59 AM by J Ulmer

I agree with Mr. Harsin as I swapped one out onto a 901 Ford Powermaster (1962 model diesel HiClearance row crop) Saginaw manfactured for both companies. You can check Ford parts through Alexander's Tractor Parts in Winnsboro, Texas (1-800-231-6876) as they deal exclusivewly in Ford/New Holland. They don't do green, but know the Ford Stuff inside out and are good to deal with.

Seat spring

IP: 4.157.17.81 Posted on May 30, 2004 at 07:54:01 PM by Robert (Johnboy) Walton

Larry, I have an 1950 Oliver 77 rowcrop. It has the seat spring (don't know what you call it for sure) with the two rubber things that twist. Can they be repaired and if not where can I find one of them units. Thanks, Bob

Re(1): Seat spring

IP: 67.2.248.204 Posted on May 31, 2004 at 07:59:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. They will have the seat parts that you need. They will need the serial number of your tractor. Their website is: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

Re(2): Seat spring

IP: 4.157.38.24 Posted on June 2, 2004 at 04:29:53 PM by Robert Walton

Thanks for the information, larry.

1755 Oliver

IP: 139.78.249.233 Posted on May 28, 2004 at 11:04:41 AM by Jason

Hello Larry, I am working on a 1755 Diesel and I need to know what the pump timing should be set at, and what the valve settings are. thanks for all the help.

Re(1): 1755 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on May 29, 2004 at 11:45:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The timing is 4 degrees before Top Dead Center. The valve setting is .030 for both intake and exhaust. Larry

Re(2): 1755 Oliver

IP: 139.78.249.233 Posted on June 1, 2004 at 11:43:09 AM by Jason

Thanks for the help, Larry.

wondering year of oliver

IP: 69.146.42.181 Posted on May 28, 2004 at 00:19:34 AM by chris van why

I have a Oliver super 88 diesel Rowcrop. The S/N is 37-090-801. I have found super 88 diesel years and i have found 88 rowcrops year but none for 88 super rowcrops with diesels

Re(1): wondering year of oliver

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on May 28, 2004 at 07:53:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Your S88 was built in 1956. It's serial number is 37 090. The 801 has to do with gearing and I don't know the code for that. In the numbering system, they don't separate out the diesels. Larry

1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.63.109 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 11:27:17 PM by al

I have an 1800 oliver that had the injector pump and injectors rebuilt in 1998. There are very few hours on the rebuilt parts, and this past winter when using it in -50c temperatures the tractor started sputering and firing improperly. The end result now is the governor will not kick in to throttle up. On start up all it will do is idle and number 4 and number 6 cylinders, fuel leaks out the exhaust ports and blows out the exhuast. Does the pump have to be rebuilt again? With the govenor not working properly, would that interfere with the injectors working properly or do they also have to be rebuilt?

Re(1): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on May 27, 2004 at 08:13:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the engine valve cover. You may have either stuck valves on 5 and 6, or push rods that have become dislocated from the rocker arms. This may be all that is wrong with your engine. Larry

Re(1): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on May 27, 2004 at 09:20:01 AM by Ron

Swap #4 and #6 injectors with any other 2 cylinders. If the problem follows to the new cylinders, the injectors are bad. Any tiny amount of water in the fuel can damage injectors, especially in cold temps. If the problem still exists on #4 and #6, then I would start by checking compression.

Re(2): 1800 oliver diesel

IP: 205.200.61.52 Posted on May 27, 2004 at 09:15:09 PM by al

Thanks for the info. Dislocated rocker arms have been a problem in the past so I will check this first. al

Felt Wheel Bearing Grease Seals

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 10:52:23 PM by J. Ulmer

I am working on my spray trailer which is a 1957 Nabors drop-frame furniture van brakes. I need someone to tell me what to do as far as treating the felt rings which act as the grease seals in the back of the bearings inside the hubs. The John Deere guys said lots of old tractors used felts to seal the axles and transmissions (while I was searching for seals). I don't want to put them in dry, but I don't know whether to rub grease on, soak with oil, cook in a double boiler with heavy grease wicking in or what. Anyone with any ideas. I know it turns faster than a tractor axle, but I am sure it is slower than a transmission input shaft turns. I know all later stuff uses oiled hubs and a real seal, but this was the way this was done and none of the trailer shop guys were old enough to have even seen these.(we cut them out of sheet felt) Thanks,Larry, and the rest of you guys!!

Re(1): Felt Wheel Bearing Grease Seals

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on May 27, 2004 at 08:10:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I would just put some regular engine oil on them. You could soak them in oil and then squeeze out the excess, but I don't think that is necessary. Just put a moderate amount of oil on them. It will work. Larry

Re(2): Felt Wheel Bearing Grease Seals

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 28, 2004 at 01:35:36 AM by J. Ulmer

Thanks, Larry!! We didn't know and could not find anyone who had seen them. ...Re: my inquiry about brake linkages from november for my 282 Han#ock Scraper..(1950 Oliver Industrial powered): did you find something in the outside parts department after the snow melted? Jerry

Re(3): Felt Wheel Bearing Grease Seals

IP: 67.2.248.159 Posted on May 29, 2004 at 08:00:28 AM by Larry Harsin

After talking to you yesterday, I sent the parts. Larry

880 oliver three point hitch

IP: 208.5.112.4 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 06:21:13 AM by Marty

Love your website!! I would like to replace the draw bar hitch with a three point hitch on my 880. Any suggustions on how to do this with out spending big bucks.

Re(1): 880 oliver three point hitch

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 07:23:00 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from Saginaw Co. Tractor Paarts 810-638-5787. Website: www.saginawcountytractor.com. They are about as reasonable as anyone. Larry

water in oil

IP: 65.230.153.218 Posted on May 25, 2004 at 11:49:46 PM by Joel

Larry, great site. Thanks for the service you provide. My brother's 1650 gas is apparently leaking water in the oil. The plugs seem fine, it runs fine, but the oil was just changed and after a short time the oil is all milky white/gray. The tractor had sat for quite some time (indoors) and he also just used some cheap off-brand oil for the change. I have had specific car engines have white foam buildup on the oil cap when running cheap oils, but not anything like this. I told him to change the oil, top off the water, and keep an eye on the water. I hate the thought of having to take the head off...is that the likely next step? I am getting the service manual from Charles City. I guess I am curious if there is a common problem contributing to this for this tractor and if stop leaks are worth trying. By the way, this thing was running so badly until we adjusted the carb per your recommendations in an archived post. This tractor has not run this well in a great number of years, but I am worried about the oil situation. We took compression tests and it was 165-170 on all cylinders. I suppose that a coolant sys pressure test or leak-down would be good to do also.

Re(1): water in oil

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 07:17:52 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is still losing water, the first thing I would do is take the oil pan down and see if water is coming between the sleeves and the block. It will probably be just one spot. You may have a "O" ring that is bad on the bottom of a sleeve. It wouldn't hurt to try some Stop-Leak. The cheap oil wouldn't do it. Larry

Re(1): water in oil

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 07:17:41 AM by Ron

1650G engines are as reliable as an anvil. Stop-leak won't work. I'd do a cylinder leak-down test first. Compression is a little high, carbon build-up is likely. Water in the crankcase means the bearings are soon toast. My best guesses are that either the engine overheated, warping the head and tearing the gasket or that it sat in an unheated space without the proper coolant mix and froze, cracking the head or block. The tests will help tell you what to look for when you tear it down. Sounds like a rebuild is in order. Be sure to have a machinist check the head for level and resurface it if necessary. If the head was warped, you'll also need to use all new head bolts and they will have been stretched and will not hold tension. If the head was not warped, then have him magnaflux the head if a crack is not apparent.

Re(2): water in oil

IP: 151.201.5.158 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 08:41:23 AM by Paul

It may sound dumb but what is a leakdown test? I am new to this stuff just like to find out as much info as I can on working on old motors. Thanx Paul

Re(3): water in oil

IP: 69.179.2.158 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 09:25:21 AM by Ron

Not dumb at all. A leakdown test tells you where the leak is. It works by pressurizing each cylinder one at a time with shop air while that piston is at TDC. You then listen for escaping air. If it bubbles out the radiator neck, you have a torn head gasket or cracked block. If air escapes out an intake valve, you 'll hear it at the intake/carb. If out the exhaust valve, the stack. If you hear air leak into the crankcase, it's usually, put not always, very worn or broken rings. I like doing a leakdown test before any teardown as it tells me exactly how many problems I'm fixing. For example, it's not uncommon to have worn rings and a cracked valve. That way I know what parts I'll need and what to look for cylinder by cylinder.

Re(4): water in oil

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 10:53:50 AM by J Ulmer

I also appreciate all you other guys supplementing Larry's great advice. I've been around mechanic's 30 years and never heard of checking like this until I started following this site last year. Thanks Ron for your concise, precise explaination and definition!!!I can now incorporate this diagnostic tool into my arsenal of refurbishing my "experienced machinery" even though not much of it was produced by Oliver.--Larry, Has the snow melted down off of the parts department out back to look for the brake linkage stuff for my 282 Hand-ock Scraper (1950 Industrial)I asked about in November???

Re(5): water in oil

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on May 27, 2004 at 08:05:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for the reminder. The snow has been gone for awhile. Now we are in the rain mode (we needed rain very badly), but it stays cold enough to keep using the furnace. This is unusual for late May. Yes, I have the parts you listed in your letter. I'll get them sent to you. Larry

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