1655 Hydraulics

IP: 207.32.44.185 Posted on June 29, 2007 at 10:32:52 AM by Larry

Hi Larry! I'm posting this question for my brother, so maybe not enough detailed info? My brother is trying to run a hydraulic sprayer pump from the outside hydraulic lever on a 1655. The hydraulic oil runs hot. Is there a better way to do it? Also sort of related, he has a 1550 that he isn't able to control the speed of a very small orbital motor on a small grain auger. The same above 1655 when hooked to this orbital motor, the speed can be controlled.

Re(1): 1655 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on June 29, 2007 at 08:41:23 PM by Larry Harsin

He may need to adjust the restrictor on that right hand valve, so that it will let more oil through. That might help on the heating. I would back the restrictor out as far as it will go and see if that helps on the heating. I would say the restrictor on the 1550 is turned out further than on the 1655. This would make the oil not flow so fast and would operate the small orbital motor, but would make the 1655 get hot, because it is restricted more. Larry

running hot

IP: 74.67.169.52 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 06:15:10 PM by mario

I've got a 1600 6cyl gas tractor,runs great but runs very hot gradually after an hours use.went to change thermostat & there was none in upper housing-should there be one?(i'm new to tractor),can't find a parts listing online.........thanx p.s....great site

Re(1): running hot

IP: 67.2.249.160 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 09:31:56 PM by Larry Harsin

By all means, that tractor should have a thermostat. If fact, it doesn't cool properly without a thermostat. You can get a thermostat at your AGCO dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you still have problems, give me a call 712-362-2966, in case the problem is something else. Larry

Oliver 77 sheet metal

IP: 68.230.219.80 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 06:11:31 PM by Kyle Kennedy

I am in desperate need of the front engine panels for my oliver 77. I have looked everywhere and can not find any for sale. I don't care if they are original or remaned. also if anyone has a decent toolbox that isnt rusted through I would love to buy that from you too. you can contact me at 757-303-1996 or by my email address

Re(1): Oliver 77 sheet metal

IP: 67.2.249.160 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 09:27:16 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get reproduced panels from Richard Lynch in Eaton OH 937-456-6686 or Steiner Tractor Parts in Holly MI 810-695-1919. I have tool boxes. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 77 sheet metal

IP: 68.230.219.80 Posted on June 29, 2007 at 06:59:57 AM by Kyle Kennedy

Steiner was the first place I tried and they are backordered indefinately and lynch farms did not have them either. Is there any other place I could get them?

Re(3): Oliver 77 sheet metal

IP: 67.2.249.217 Posted on July 2, 2007 at 09:55:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any others who make reproductions. You can always check salvage yards for used ones. You might check with Arnold Meyer, 507-372-7788. Larry

Pistons for the Oliver 70

IP: 64.149.37.91 Posted on June 27, 2007 at 08:06:27 PM by Todd W. White

I'm trying to find out about the pistons used in an Oliver 70-series. I'd like to know the following: Bore: Compression height: Overall height: Type of skirt (full, not full, split, not split):

Re(1): Pistons for the Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 05:57:21 AM by Larry Harsin

The pistons that came in the Oliver 70's originally were 3 1/8 cast iron bore, 3 compression rings, one oil. The pistons came flush with the top of the sleeves (or deck) for height. Many 70 engines were oversized by boring the sleeves out to 3 5/16 and installing Dodge or Plymouth flat topped pistons. These were aluminum. They also, were flush with the top of the block and sleeve. Most of the overbores were full skirted. I have seen them both ways. Larry

Re(2): Pistons for the Oliver 70

IP: 64.149.37.91 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 08:21:53 AM by Todd W. White

That rules out what I'm trying to do, which is find out if pistons for my Gravely L-series (3.25" bore) came from an Oliver tractor. Any idea the dimensions on the valves? Maybe they'd fit. One last question - don't a lot of these machines use the Zenith carb?

Re(3): Pistons for the Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.160 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 09:24:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what size the valves are. A lot of the 70's do have Zenith carbs. Larry

Oliver 66 LP

IP: 68.113.233.140 Posted on June 27, 2007 at 07:14:16 PM by Schimko

I was wondering if oliver themselves ever put LP fuel on a 66, or was it always an aftermarket job on the 66s?

Re(1): Oliver 66 LP

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on June 28, 2007 at 05:51:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen anything in the parts books about a 66 LP. I would tend to think it was an aftermarket addition. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 207.118.190.182 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 06:51:04 PM by Ben Rauls

I need a diesel engine for my 88 but am having a problem finding one. Is there a engine out of a larger model tractor that would bolt in like a 310?

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 09:12:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one at the present time. A 265 engine would be the best to put in with the least amount of work and expense. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88

IP: 207.118.159.121 Posted on June 25, 2007 at 01:24:33 AM by Ben Rauls

What model was the 265 in?

Re(3): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on June 26, 2007 at 05:04:49 AM by Larry Harsin

It was in the S88, the 880 and the 1600 diesel. You could make a 1600 gas work also, but I doubt if you'll find one of these laying around. Larry

Oliver 1365 Starting

IP: 76.188.6.62 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 10:19:38 AM by Randall

I have an Oliver 1365 that is difficult to start. I have heard that diesel engines can be, but I believe that it should be easier than cranking until the battery is nearly dead and using a shot or two of ether. When it is running it sounds great. I had it running a few weeks ago but my Dad and I had to pull it with my truck to get it running. I changed the fuel filters and rubber fuel lines and then bled the system. I have fuel to the engine at all the injector. But the stubborn thing still will not start for me. Any advice?

Re(1): Oliver 1365 Starting

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 09:09:33 PM by Larry Harsin

When you are trying to start it, does it smoke? If it smokes and it still won't start, then it is low compression. If it doesn't smoke when you are trying to start it, then the pump is weak. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1365 Starting

IP: 76.188.6.62 Posted on July 1, 2007 at 03:28:32 PM by Randall

I re checked some electrical connections after I sent you the first message and I had a bad connection from the battery to the starter. It was cranking but apparently not enough. It started right up after I worked with the wire for a bit.

1650 deisel

IP: 64.209.149.241 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 04:46:59 AM by corre k

I have a problem the tractor use to have more power under load it seems latey it falls on her face pretty easy plus when i ilde down it like to pick up speed after a couple seconds of ildeing I check the linage all feel and working any way to turn up or call some one who know about the indirect injected deisels thankyou for all and any help Corre

Re(1): 1650 deisel

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on June 24, 2007 at 09:07:07 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have an injection pump problem. I would take the little cover off of the injection pump and see if there are any foreign particles in there that look like coffee grounds. If there are, it is evidence that your governor ring is breaking up and your pump will have to be serviced at a service shop. Larry

Super 88 axle seal and bearing

IP: 75.130.30.237 Posted on June 22, 2007 at 07:19:20 PM by Karl

Hello Larry, I have a late model super 88 and the left side axle seal is leaking badly. When I raise the weight of the tractor up off of the wheel I can move the axle up and down.Do you have part #'s for the felt seal,oil seal and the bearings and other needed parts to repair this? Can this be done by removing the hub and the outer retainer. The axle can remain installed.

Re(1): Super 88 axle seal and bearing

IP: 67.2.248.58 Posted on June 22, 2007 at 09:33:18 PM by Larry Harsin

You can replace the seal and adjust the bearings with shims, without removing the axle, unless the axle is excessively loose. If it is excessively loose, I would be inclined to remove the bull ring cover and remove the snap ring from the bull gear, and pull the axle out of the tractor and check the bearing races. On the S88's and 880's, the inner bearing next to the bull gear sometimes has excessive wear and may need to be replaced. A lot of times, I have found the inner bearing worn quite badly. Larry

Oliver 1550 running funny

IP: 71.215.23.215 Posted on June 21, 2007 at 07:51:58 PM by matt

I have a friend who called me today and has a 1550 gas, that starts and runs good until it warms up. It takes about 10 minutes and then it just dies. He thought that is was a vapor lock in the fuel lines, I told him the coil could be going bad(had one that did the same thing, replace coil and it has never acted up since). Any ideas??

Re(1): oliver 1550 running funny

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on June 21, 2007 at 09:48:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your idea is a good one. First of all, I'd make sure the coil was good. It could be fuel or electrical. If it isn't the coil, I'd check the strainer in the fuel tank and make sure it doesn't have obstructions in it. This should get him started on checking it out. Larry

1650 deisel tractor

IP: 74.76.3.228 Posted on June 21, 2007 at 05:17:29 PM by Bill

Hi larry have a 1650 with hydro drive i be plowing away starts to lug so i pull the hydro in low and i loose power like drive is not connected. push the cluth in and wait a second and you can hear it lock up let clutch out and away you go. if you don't push the cluth in it will still shift but it is delayed and it slams in to low if you are in low and you take the pulling load off of the tractor it will kick out push clutch in and wait it will kick back in. i have changed oil and filter still is the same. hydraulic filter seems to get hot napa filter please help

Re(1): 1650 deisel tractor

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on June 21, 2007 at 09:45:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have a bad sprague clutch and the unit will have to be torn down and repaired. Larry

1755 charge pump

IP: 216.51.253.230 Posted on June 20, 2007 at 11:00:35 AM by Phil DeBoef

I notice some 1755's have a hydraulic charge pump by fuel injection pump and some do not. What is the difference and can this pump be eliminated?

Re(1): 1755 charge pump

IP: 67.2.249.92 Posted on June 20, 2007 at 09:36:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The earlier 1755's had the external pump to move the hydraulic oil through the oil cooler. On the later versions it was changed and put into the rear of the tractor on the inside. I don't know of any that have been changed over. I have never attempted to change it over. Larry

Re(2): 1755 charge pump

IP: 209.50.27.45 Posted on June 21, 2007 at 01:19:43 AM by B A Star

The pump that you refer to as a charge pump circulates fluid for cooling purposes & also draws fluid from the top of the filter housing. It is important because it also removes any air that has entered the system on the negative pressure side. The drive gearing is different for the early to later tractors that had the cooler pump behind the main pump. The belt driven pump takes very little power to run it. The drive belt does not need much tension, the drive shaft only has a bushing for support.

1755 Transmission

IP: 216.51.253.230 Posted on June 20, 2007 at 10:55:30 AM by Phil DeBoef

Top quadrant gears (1,2,4, and R1) are identical speeds to bottom quadrant gears (3,5,6, and R2). Is there a shifting fork or rail problem?

Re(1): 1755 Transmission

IP: 67.2.249.92 Posted on June 20, 2007 at 09:33:03 PM by Larry Harsin

You must have a problem with your range shifting - it must not be shifting to the high range properly. You could have a broken fork. Larry

Loader

IP: 64.12.117.17 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 07:39:50 PM by Colton

I am looking for a oliver loader that would fit on my 1850. Also, who made the loaders for oliver or did oliver make them their selves?

Re(1): Loader

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 10:06:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Schwartz made some of the Oliver loaders. Oliver made some of them themselves. There were other companies who built a few for them also. At present, I don't have one that would fit an 1850. Larry

rear main seal for RC70

IP: 69.57.195.160 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 08:35:36 AM by LG Crawford

We put our freshly repainted 1937 Row Crop 70 through a parade this weekend. Looked great, but dripped quite a lot of oil from the rear of the engine. We are thinking it needs a rear main seal. Do you know where we might find the necessay seals? Also, do you know who makes an oil filter (brand) that fits the RC70? Thanks for all your help!

Re(1): rear main seal for RC70

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 10:04:09 PM by Larry Harsin

NAPA has the filters. The Oliver part number for the filter is 100929ASA. Having this number might help your NAPA dealer find the correct one. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320- 6224, will have the rear main seal and you might ask him about the filter. He might have that also. Larry

Oliver Rake

IP: 64.12.117.17 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 07:31:14 AM by Colton

Did Oliver make a three point rake, PTO driven.

Re(1): Oliver Rake

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 10:00:22 PM by Larry Harsin I don't think they did. Larry

1955 PTO

IP: 64.12.117.17 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 07:27:54 AM by Colton

Can I fit a 1955 PTO into a 1850? Re(1): 1955 PTO

IP: 4.249.168.81 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 10:50:21 AM by Larry from md

NO the 1955 is a closed center hydrolic and the 1850 is open center and the 1955 is hydrolic shifted pto.

Re(2): 1955 PTO

IP: 64.12.117.20 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 07:44:27 PM by Colton

Would any 50 series PTO fit in the 1850? How much are they worth?

Re(3): 1955 PTO

IP: 4.249.204.158 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 01:50:04 PM by Larry from md

Yes the 1750,1950,1950t and the 1800c should all work.

Re(4): 1955 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 09:59:21 PM by Larry Harsin

If you are looking for a PTO for your 1955T, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543, or Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304. Larry

oliver 62 baler

IP: 65.175.201.150 Posted on June 18, 2007 at 07:04:37 AM by deb

Looking for an operator manual. Having hard time getting proper twine tension on square bales. Any tips on this problem?

Re(1): oliver 62 baler

IP: 67.2.249.76 Posted on June 19, 2007 at 09:55:18 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Your problem will be covered in the manual. Larry

OLIVER SUPER 99

IP: 64.12.117.17 Posted on June 17, 2007 at 03:51:42 PM by Dave J

I'm having trouble finding high & low range in the shift pattern. I tried pulling apart the end cap of the shifter rails (used plenty of penetrate oil) not really that rusty, I got all the springs & balls out but 1,seems to be stuck in the triangle housing. Used a Magnet,even hitting w/punch, down thru the triangle.Just seems stuck. Plus the one stuck isn't the neutral rail. Can you make a suggestion?

Re(1): OLIVER SUPER 99

IP: 67.2.242.26 Posted on June 17, 2007 at 11:12:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably, you are going to have to remove the shift rails and the poppit block. Sometimes the poppit block gets worn enough that the ball tends to get wedged when you are trying to shift. I don't know if you can get a new poppit block. I've had to relieve or grind a bit off of the rail, where the ball slides, so that it doesn't bind so much. The triangle you refer to, is the poppit block. Larry

oliver weights

IP: 67.55.237.51 Posted on June 17, 2007 at 09:30:07 AM by mark

What are oliver rear weights worth?

Re(1): oliver weights

IP: 67.2.242.26 Posted on June 17, 2007 at 11:08:18 PM by Larry Harsin

They have been running about $75 a pair, but lately, the price has been going up. Larry

1800 hydraulics

IP: 64.12.117.17 Posted on June 16, 2007 at 05:39:19 PM by Kevin

Got a 1800 B series. The lift was working good, then started making a noise, now the noise is really loud and the lift will go up but not down untill it sits and leaks down over night. Any suggestions on where to start.

Re(1): 1800 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on June 16, 2007 at 09:03:26 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like maybe something in the control linkage in the 3 pt. is malfunctioning. Some of the linkage is external and some of it is inside the unit. Look for broken or disconnected linkage. Larry

1954 OC-6 gas hydraulics

IP: 70.50.50.137 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 03:18:25 PM by Jon Henderson

Hello Larry! My OC-6 crawler has some new and good used parts from Zimmerman's and now the clutch, final drive, track rollers and eletrical system are renewed. Next, I think, will be my hydraulic system. The manufacturer's original hydraulics actually work very well - when there is hydraulic fluid in the pump. Every couple of weeks, if the tractor has been sitting, the hydraulic fluid is down a couple of quarts and won't lift (or lower) the dozer blade. There is never any leakage under the tractor to speak of, and so, I am wondering if the hydraulic fluid is leaking into the transmission / final drive. If this is the case, how do I go about fixing it? Thanks for your wonderful knowledge and experience. I always read your column in Sherry Shaefer's wonderful "Oliver Heritage" magazine. Great stuff!

Re(1): 1954 OC-6 gas hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.57 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 08:58:03 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your leakage is occuring in the hydraulic pump seals, in the transmission. I think the oil is going into the transmission. The PTO drive shaft will have to be removed from the tractor, then, unbolt the hydraulic unit from the trans housing and remove the hydraulic unit from the tractor. There will be 3 castle nuts that hold the hydraulic pump onto the bottom of the hydraulic unit. Then you can bolt the hydraulic pump into a vise and tear it down. Note which direction the pump drive gear is installed, in relation to the pump housing. Take the pump apart and inspect for worn bearings and also, inspect the center plate for cracks. Check the pump side plates for wear and scoring. If bearings and seals are needed, install new ones and put your pump back together. Larry

1610 LOADER

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on June 14, 2007 at 10:35:38 AM by KIM SHARVER

I HAVE AN OLIVER 1650 WITH 1610 LOADER, IT IS VERY SLOW AND I WAS WANTING TO ADD A HYDRAULIC PUMP ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE VIA HARMONIC BALANCER. IT THERE A KIT FOR THIS? WHAT IS THE FLOW RATE OF THE PUMP I WOULD NEED? WHAT TYPE OF VALVE FOR THE LOADER / BUCKET ECT.. WHO SELLS THESE PARTS?

Re(1): 1610 LOADER

IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on June 14, 2007 at 10:17:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Northern Hydraulics is a place to get a valve and possibly a pump. 800-533-5545. I think they have a PTO driven hydraulic pump that will pump 25 gal. per minute. Larry

Re(2): 1610 LOADER

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 07:26:47 AM by KIM SHARVER

IS IT COMMON THAT THE ORIGINAL HYDRAULICS WERE SLOW FOR THIS TRACTOR, OR COULD I BEEF UP THE PUMP THAT IS IN THE TRACTOR?

Re(3): 1610 LOADER

IP: 67.2.242.57 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 08:47:57 PM by Larry Harsin

By today's standards, they are getting so that they are on the slow side. The most economical way to "beef it up" is to buy a PTO pump and operate it that way. That will mean that the PTO will be tied up when using the loader. The front drive pump gets to be a pretty involved application. I don't know where you will find all of the parts. Larry

Re(4): 1610 LOADER

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on June 16, 2007 at 08:31:45 PM by KIM

I AM WANTING TO MAKE A DRIVE SHAFT THAT WILL CONNECT TO THE HARMONIC BALANCER OF THIS TRACTOR, HAVE YOU ANY SUGGESTION ON WHAT I MAY USE, THIS SHAFT WILL DRIVE THE EXTERNAL HYDRAULIC PUMP I PLAN TO ADD FOR THE LOADER, I HAVE SEEN THIS ON OTHER TRACTORS BUT NOT TO SURE WHAT CONNECTS TO HARMONIC BALANCER? AT THE END OF THIS SHAFT I WILL CONNECT A COUPLER AND THIS WILL DRIVE THE PUMP.

Re(5): 1610 LOADER

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on June 16, 2007 at 09:01:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, and he will have information about front drive pumps and where to get them, if they are available, or what you should use to make one, or whatever. Larry

fuel pump?

IP: 198.208.159.19 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 07:23:58 AM by Tom B

Larry, 1800 gas - Been struggling with a Jekyl and Hyde set of problems with extreme rich running and fuel starvation. I think the black smoke and plug fouling will go away as soon as I replace the little acceleration pump diaphragm inside the floatbowl. Starvation issue I think is due to plugged fuel lines and/or bad Fuel Pump. I pulled the pump off and diassembled. About 2 TABLESPOONS of dried up mud-balls came out - looked almost like instant coffee crystals! The diaphragms in the pump show some loss of the rubber coating over the fabric, and I am concerned about how well it will work when I put it back on. The pump is marked "AC" - would that be AC Rochester and would a rebuild kit be readily available? Somebody removed the screen from the fuel strainer bowl, so I'm in the process of removing the hard fuel lines and draining tank to clean. Between the suspect pump and plugged lines, I'm very tempted to go to a gravity feed set-up with 5/16" rubber line from the fuel bowl straight to the carb. Can you tell me - is the pump really necessary? Other than being more cut resistant and cosmetically pretty, do I really need to stay with the hard fuel lines? Running against the block like they do seems to encourage vapor lock. Also - how is the fuel bowl attached to the bottom of the tank? Is it threaded in on a nipple or is there a flanged joint? Mine's so filthy at the moment I can't see how it comes off.

Re(1): fuel pump?

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 06:57:52 PM by Larry Harsin

I would advise you to get an new pump from a GM automotive supply store or from your AGCO Dealer. A Delco Remy Store would be ideal. They would have a pump. I would stay with those lines after cleanup and a new pump. I believe your pump is shot. The fuel bowl is attached with a 3/8 pipe thread on the strainer that screws into the bottom of the tank. Larry

Re(2): fuel pump?

IP: 208.25.96.15 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 06:00:57 PM by Tom B

Thanks for the reply, Still working on cleaning up the mess. Also still struggling to understand why the pump is even there. The tank sits completely above the carb. Seems like gravity feed would do just fine, at least on level ground. Has anyone tried going pump-less and if so what were results?

Re(3): fuel pump?

IP: 67.2.242.57 Posted on June 15, 2007 at 08:51:20 PM by Larry Harsin

That pump is on there for a good reason. It is there so that the tractor works better and it doesn't vapor lock. Larry

Super 88 Seat

IP: 207.177.100.108 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 08:57:40 PM by Aaron

Hello Larry - we have a supper 88 and are rebuilding it. do you have or know where to get a complete oliver super 88 metal pan seat and the bracket underneath it?

Re(1): Super 88 Seat

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 06:51:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 Larry

66 0liver

IP: 204.155.56.3 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 06:18:43 PM by lee Cramsey

Larry, I purchased the sleeve and piston from you for my 66. I got it going. the throttle was all or nothing and I found the governor gear teeth all gone. I replaced the governor and now it runs great. The problem is, it is noisy in the front of the motor. I noticed slop in the timing gears when the governor was out, but not much wear. It does seem to be louder now (maybe)that the governor is rotating. I changed the piston rod bushings,rings and the head has been redone, I also had the rod bearings checked. all ok. I did not check the mains because the rods were in such good shape. Could the noise be the timing gears?? It has been suggested to me maybe the crank is broken. Any help is appreciated. Also where can I buy a timing gear set.

Re(1): 66 0liver

IP: 67.2.248.215 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 10:23:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a used timing gear set. If you need them, email me: cobalt@rconnect.com I would most definitely check the main bearings and replace them if they are worn. Larry

Super 55 PTO

IP: 130.36.62.142 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 12:47:19 PM by lee

I just purchased a super 55 and the PTO will not stop turning. It did a couple times when I forced the lever. Any ideas what I'm getting into ?

Re(1): Super 55 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.215 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 10:18:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Sometimes they act that way when there isn't anything attached to them. Hook it up to something and see if it still does it. Larry

hand clutch

IP: 216.231.208.128 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 11:56:20 AM by Larry N.

Recently bought another 77rc parts tractor. It had a long handle on the left side of the seat that I just assumed was for implements. I looked it over a little better when I got home with it and it turned out to be a hand clutch assembly. Was this an option for the row crops. judging by the rust and pitting its the same age as the rest of the tractor, and still works.

Re(1): hand clutch

IP: 72.198.206.229 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 05:49:16 PM by Larry Kruse

We had one on one of our Oliver 77's. We had a hired man with an artifical leg. He could do everything except push the clutch. With the hand clutch he had no problems operating the tractor. I do not know if it came from Oliver or an aftermarket source.

Re(2): hand clutch

IP: 67.2.248.215 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 10:16:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That was an extra pkg. that Oliver offered and could be bought and installed on the tractors. Larry

Oliver 550

IP: 24.173.94.195 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 09:24:15 AM by Richard Long

The main frame on my Oliver 550 is cracking along the front bolt edge. Welding has not stopped it. Where can I find a replacement main frame? Is there a better way to fix it?

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.248.215 Posted on June 12, 2007 at 10:13:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934. Larry

1800 A Hydraulics

IP: 24.119.242.141 Posted on June 11, 2007 at 07:07:21 PM by Dave

I have a 1961 Oliver 1800A Diesel. I want to be able to run a single acting cylinder on the right side in addition to a double acting cylinder on the left side. I know how to set the bleed screws but my manual states that in order to do so, I need to install a bypass valve kit which my tractor does not have. Do you know if the bypass valve part #107194A has a check valve or something like that in it besides the needle valve part #107198A? I can get an NOS bypass valve but can not get the needle valve for it. Do you have any suggestions on adding this bypass set-up?

Re(1): 1800 A Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on June 11, 2007 at 09:21:36 PM by Larry Harsin

You could use a conventional high pressure valve, which would accomplish the same thing. There is no check valve involved. You just have to fabricate your own piping and incorporate the afore-mentioned valve into the line. It is very doable. Larry

1550

IP: 75.100.203.220 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 09:42:12 PM by Jeremy

I was running my tractor and all of a sudden she started spittin and sputtering. It is not firing on three cylinders. All of the fluids are find and it did not overheat. It has good spark at the end of each plug wire and the plugs look good. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1550

IP: 67.2.248.14 Posted on June 11, 2007 at 05:58:31 AM by Larry Harsin

There are lots of possibilities. Can you determine if it is electrical? Or is it a fuel problem? Conceivably, there could be a mechanical problem, such as in the valve train. You'll have to go through it and try to figure out what is happening. Larry

Super 77 Diesel

IP: 69.71.41.244 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 08:27:30 PM by Bob Elliott

Larry, I have a super 77 that started blowing bubbles out the radiator immediately on start up. I pulled the head and replaced the head gasket but it didn't change a thing. I'm assuming I have to pull the head and have it checked for an internal crack? Somebody mentioned that an energy cell can cause this problem. Any and all suggestion as to how to diagnose this problem would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob Elliott

Re(1): Super 77 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 08:53:53 PM by Larry Harsin

It would be my inclination to think it is a crack in the head. It is possible however, that you could have a cracked sleeve or a sleeve that is porus and compression is leaking there also. But , I would check for a head crack first. Larry

Zenith Carb

IP: 71.15.147.249 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:54:04 AM by George Wallace

Larry, I need some help identifying the carb on my 70 RC. Serial number on tractor is 259235 I believe making it a 1947. I am pretty sure the carb is a zenith because I can see a Z on the bowl. I am in need of a rebuild kit and need to know which one. Click on any picture to make it larger. Click again to make it even larger.

Re(1): Zenith Carb

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 08:50:14 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a Zenith. The carb number is either 10,002 or 10,004. Either will work. Valu Bilt shows a kit for it. 888-828-3276. The number for the kit is 604101. They also show a float for it. That number is 583952. Larry

a/c 615 loader diesel fuel in crankcase

IP: 67.86.159.112 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 09:58:34 AM by Artie ny

Hi, I have fuel getting into the crankcase of the 2200 engine after about 15 minutes of run time. it fills the crankcase so much it blows out every opening. Othere than the fuel filling the crankcase it runs fine which leads me to belive it is not a injector problem. I thought it may be a lift pump diafram but I do not have one. it has a Roosa Master DBGFC 437- injector pump running off a gear/pully. Could it be comming out of a seal in this pump and into the crankcase via the gear/pully housing? If so where would I get the seal kit from? Can I just unbolt the two nuts that hold the pump on to the mount to take off the pump, or do I have to remove the plate and cover that holds the pump on?

Re(1): a/c 615 loader diesel fuel in crankcase

IP: 4.249.204.96 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:36:52 AM by Larry from md

Yes those pumps can leak at the front main seal. Injector pump guys say you need to have the pump partially rebuilt,rather than just replaceing the seals. Check to make sure the leak off fuel line on the top off the pump is not plugged. There is a spring and ball in there. If you remove the pump time the engine first to the timeing mark in the window of the pump. If you don't have experiance or a good manuel i would advise getting someone to do the removal for you.

Re(2): a/c 615 loader diesel fuel in crankcase

IP: 67.2.242.25 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:46:52 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably the seals on the pump drive shaft, allowing the fuel to get into the crankcase. Tipically these seals are replaced by removing the gear and the drive shaft without removing the pump. BUT, I'm not sure what engine you are referring to about this problem. On the Olivers with the Waukesha engine, the pump sits horizontally along side of the engine and the seals can be replaced by working from the front. BUT, if your pump mounts vertically into the engine block, then removal of the pump will be required before replacing of the seals is possible. Get these seals from your diesel repair shop. They can give you specific instructions on doing this. Larry

Re(3): a/c 615 loader diesel fuel in crankcase

IP: 67.86.159.112 Posted on June 11, 2007 at 08:05:13 PM by Artie NY

thanks to all.. one more question where to buy the seal kit?

Re(4): a/c 615 loader diesel fuel in crankcase

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 06:48:20 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from an AGCO Dealer or a Diesel Pump Repair Shop. Larry

decals for 1937 Oliver RC70

IP: 65.167.190.210 Posted on June 9, 2007 at 07:08:15 PM by LG Crawford

Larry, I'm trying to get the right decals for our 1937 Oliver Row Crop 70. Some people want to sell me "Hart Parr 70" decals. As I recall the only place the tractor says Hart Parr is on the cast iron radiator (front). As I recall, the sides have "OLIVER" on the tank and "ROW CROP" with a "70" kind of written over it, below on the side panel. I know there is much debate about color and decals when restoring these old girls. Can you post a link or send a picture that will show me the way?

Re(1): decals for 1937 Oliver RC70

IP: 67.2.242.25 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:38:47 AM by Larry Harsin

If it says Hart Parr on the radiator, you need the Hart Parr decals for it. You can probably get some pictures from the Floyd Co Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

1655 3pt. quit working

IP: 172.145.79.26 Posted on June 9, 2007 at 08:11:47 AM by william wetherell

loader works good 3pt, just quit working . have good psi. out of remotes. any ideas?

Re(1): 1655 3pt. quit working

IP: 4.249.105.223 Posted on June 9, 2007 at 05:50:48 PM by Larry from md

The safety pressure relief valve on the three point piston has broken off at the elbow. This is a very common problem they must have gotten a bad batch of elbows from the factory. You will have to remove the unit and turn over and remove the pan to get to it. This is all assuming the bolt by your right heel is in tight.

Re(2): 1655 3pt. quit working

IP: 67.2.242.25 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:34:32 AM by Larry Harsin

It can be one of 2 things. It can be a sticky regulator spool in the servo valve, or it can be a broken pipe fitting that attaches the relief valve to the 3pt. hitch cylinder. Before you take it apart, try running the engine at 2/3 throttle and wiggling your remote levers back and forth rapidly, to try to flush foreign particles out of the servo valve. If this doesn't do it, I would suspect the other problem of a broken pipe fitting exists. Larry

Oliver super 88

IP: 67.1.97.207 Posted on June 8, 2007 at 09:34:50 PM by Matt

Larry, Could you please tell me if a super 88 LP from the factory would have an upright tank or horizontal?? I have seen earlier ones with upright and 770-880 with them horizontal!!!! Thanks

Re(1): Oliver super 88

IP: 67.2.242.25 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not positive, but I think they are horizontal on the Supers. An Oliver S88 Parts Manual would tell you. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Alternator Diode 1550

IP: 172.147.176.167 Posted on June 8, 2007 at 06:42:51 PM by Dave Drury

I put a new alternator on my 1550 and now it continues to run after the key is turned off. You indicated earlier that it would be caused by backfeed to the coil. Could you expound further as to what I should put into the circuit and which wire I should put it in. I've been turning off the key and the fuel and letting it run out of gas.

Re(1): Alternator Diode 1550

IP: 4.249.105.223 Posted on June 9, 2007 at 05:55:53 PM by Larry from md

The wires at the switch can allso be connected wrong. The ignition wire shold be on a separate post and the wires to the alternater should be on the accery post. If you have a replacement switch you may need to change that.

Re(2): Alternator Diode 1550

IP: 67.2.242.25 Posted on June 10, 2007 at 10:27:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Get a diode and install it in the wire that goes from the coil and to the alternator. Larry

Oliver Wheel Size

IP: 71.48.75.24 Posted on June 7, 2007 at 08:30:53 PM by Rod

My Oliver S55 HC (that I bought over the winter) is running 14.9 X 28s. The tires are worn out and it's time to buy new ones, but as far as I can tell, I should be running 10x or 11x28s. My rims are getting pretty rusty and the tires are uncomfortably close to the fenders, so changing the size now makes sense. If I make the move to the 11x28s, can I buy any 6 lug rim at that size or do I need one that specifically fits my 55? Or should I stay with the 14.9x28s (and maybe get new rims).

Re(1): Oliver Wheel Size

IP: 67.2.242.104 Posted on June 8, 2007 at 04:42:05 AM by Larry Harsin

It depends on your needs and wants. Any rim that will fit the tractor will work. If it works o.k., I would probably stay with what you have (14.9 x28). It's whatever you want to do. The fenders could be moved also. Larry

Oliver Power Steering

IP: 12.226.103.141 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 06:38:04 PM by jimf

I'm working on restoring a 1960 Oliver 770 and the factory power steering has leaked for years. The reservoir and lines seem ok - the unit on top of the pedestal leaks. Ive got a shop manual but I dont even know where to start - are there any common issues with these units or whats the standard with fixing these up? Do you know what it costs to go through these? Any info is much appreciated!

Re(1): Oliver Power Steering

IP: 67.2.242.74 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 08:50:50 PM by Larry Harsin

These units are well known for leaking problems. I can explain it better on the phone. Call me at 712-362-2966. Also, I keep some of the seals on hand. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Power Steering

IP: 68.210.187.182 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 02:19:51 PM by Jeff Walker

I have a nineteen fifty Oliver and the the set of splines on the inside of the steering shaft are completely wallered out, I cannot find any parts to fix it. I've looked everywhere. I went to an Oliver dealer and those parts are obsolete. The splines slide over another set of splines on where the shaft connects. Can ya help me!

Re(3): Oliver Power Steering

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on June 13, 2007 at 06:46:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or with Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Larry

Oliver 88 narrow front

IP: 64.136.26.228 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 04:20:18 PM by Terry

I have a narrow front end on an Oliver 88 and it is 2 inches taller than a regular narrow front end. Could you tell me if this is from a High Crop 88?

Re(1): Oliver 88 narrow front

IP: 67.2.242.74 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 08:47:18 PM by Larry Harsin

It is from either a 770 or an 880. They were built to be 2" taller. It is not a High Crop. Larry

1755 steering

IP: 207.103.47.155 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 05:38:22 AM by Steve

Have a 1755 with set back wide front end. Steering is very loose - when hit bump or furrow hard to control. Don't think the spindle to box is broken. The cap on top of rack housing under the radiator keeps coming loose and leaking oil over engine, have to tighten bolts 2 times each day. What do we look for ? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1755 steering

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 05:52:53 AM by Larry Harsin

As far as those bolts working loose on the steering box, you are going to have to take it all apart and look for worn parts. You may have to get a different steering box assembly to correct that. Larry

Rear Axle Seals 60

IP: 205.188.116.197 Posted on June 5, 2007 at 05:11:41 AM by Terry

Replacing Rear Axle Seals and am inquiring as to whether there are vents similar to rear axle vents on passenger cars and pickups that will or would relieve pressure so as not to take out seals right away or over time? Where might these vents be? Filler is just a pipe plug. If so is there a filter or?

Re(1): Rear Axle Seals 60

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 05:47:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think there is a vent hole on that transmission. However, on the input shaft there is no seal. It just has a slinger and should vent there. Larry

1655 hydraulics

IP: 65.174.95.27 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 06:10:49 PM by David Hunt

Hello, I have a 1974 1655 diesel and the hydraulics seem weak. i have good power steering and the 3 point seems very strong. but the remotes are slow and wont even open the door on are round baler but half way revved up. i changed the filter and fluid. checked the 3 point free play. any ideas????

Re(1): 1655 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.21 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 09:50:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the relief valve assembly out of the tractor. It is on the right front of the hydraulic system, close to where your right foot is. Check the plunger on the relief valve and there is a little screen in there, that might be plugged. It is about the size of a coin and made of brass. You may even have to replace this screen. Larry

1850 desiel

IP: 71.61.224.63 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 10:06:58 AM by Eric

I have an 1850 desiel I'm concerned about 1. I have oil coming out the exhaust pipe do I need a complete rebuild or is it valve stem seals? 2. I need a pto hub and shaft where do I find these. 3. 1 1/2 years ago we replaced the clutch and it didn't work right the pedal was way to high and it didn't want to release right. We did get it to start releasing but the pedal was way high . and the clutch went out again. ideas?

Re(1): 1850 desiel

IP: 67.2.242.21 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 09:47:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the exhaust manifold and see which cylinder is the one causing the problem. Then, I would remove the injector from that cylinder and have it tested. If the injector tests o.k., then I would start thinking there was a bad cylinder causing the oiling. It can be what you say, or it can be bad rings on a piston. For a PTO hub and shaft, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6229 or Ag Parts First 866-246-9720. For the clutch, you will have to tear it down and see what is wrong and decide what to do. Larry

770 oliver

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 08:26:50 AM by Jeremy

I have a question for you. My dad's 770 oliver was only giving about 750 lbs of hydraulic pressure. So we drained the hydraulic oil and put 3 shims in the pump. Now the pump won't move the loader at all. We had the gauge on the hoses immediately after we shimed the pump to make sure it didn't spike too high. There was no pressure immediately and the loader wouldn't move. When we drained it the second time, the hydraulic fluid barley came out the hose, it just dribbled out until the pump was finally empty. Did something break in the pump? The fluid level is normal and stays up. Do they air lock? Hopefully you can help shed some light on this situation. Thanks in advance for any help.

Re(1): 770 oliver

IP: 67.2.242.21 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 09:40:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Possibly you didn't get the relief valve installed correctly, when you installed the shims. Larry

Re(2): 770 oliver

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on June 5, 2007 at 06:33:27 AM by Jeremy

Larry, What is the correct way we should have put it in? Could the spring have been put in wrong. We took the relief valve out a second time and reinstalled and it still didn't work. What could we do to check for this? It really surprised me that we had no hydraulics after this. I guess I'm asking where do we go from here?

Re(3): 770 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on June 6, 2007 at 05:44:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Take it apart again and get all of the pieces of the relief valve out of there. There should be the spring and the plunger. A magnet should get the plunger out. Probably, you are not getting it in the right place. After you get all of the parts out of there, assemble the valve assembly before you install it into the unit. Then try it again. I think what is happening is that the plunger is missing the seat, where it fits into the unit. Now, if after doing this, it doesn't work You are going to have to take the top off of the unit and unbolt the reservoir and remove it and see what is happening. Larry

1850 clutch pedal return spring

IP: 207.103.47.111 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 05:26:59 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - there was not a return spring on the clutch pedal when we repaired the clutch - The throw out brg is constantly on the fingers - we looked around and cannot find any place that looks like it would take a return spring. The manuals show all kinds of set ups. Can you explain where it should go ? So we can fabricate a set up. Thanks.

Re(1): 1850 clutch pedal return spring

IP: 67.2.249.58 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 06:02:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Originally, the spring went between the rear fuel tank bracket and the top of the pedal where the rod attached to the pedal. However, you can also hook a spring from the clutch arm on the bell housing, to the framework that holds the fuel tank. Larry

1850 replace clutch

IP: 207.103.47.111 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 05:23:37 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - replaced clutch in 1850 (early model) - over weekend - when all back together could not stop clutch from spinning to shift. Fingers seem to be already depressed. Installed a Hy-capacity rebuilt # W168011. There was a note about using shims under plate but there were no shims with the unit. So foolishly I assumed it didn't need any. The flywheel is not stepped/ but flat. I am suspecting I need to remove again and install shims under the pressure plate to get the fingers back up where I can disengage the clutch. I am headed in the right direction?

Re(1): 1850 replace clutch

IP: 67.2.249.58 Posted on June 4, 2007 at 05:59:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I think so. Larry

1750 Diesel

IP: 71.217.236.176 Posted on June 3, 2007 at 08:14:11 PM by matt lansing

1st things first, there has been more and more pop-ups on your site, just to let you know. (it is a pain. Second you have been a great help, now I have a final question for you. I have a 1750 Diesel that was sitting for many years, I rebuilt the Injection Pump, got it running, oil press was low so thought I would remove the pan and replace the lower bearings. I started removing and replacing bears, got to the third main and the cap is cracked into 2 piece. I need a cap, and then will ahve to completely rebuild the engine, line hone the mains, and then get running. Should I go ahead with it or just part it out?? Also, where would I find a cap?? would you know where an good used engine or block would be? If so what is the cost??

Re(1): 1750 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.137 Posted on June 3, 2007 at 10:26:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a block and head assembly for a 1755. You will have to decide if you want to fix or part it out. I don't know what to say about the Pop-ups. We have them blocked. Possibly you could put a block on some of them. Larry

Leveler Stripped Out?

IP: 71.48.75.24 Posted on June 2, 2007 at 07:12:38 AM by Rod

The leveler on my S55 HG appears to be stripped out. I can raise it all the way without any weight on it, but as soon as I put a load on it, it will jump over all the threads and fully extend. Is there an adjustment I can do to tighten this up?

Re(1): Leveler Stripped Out?

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on June 2, 2007 at 09:03:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Like you say, the leveler is stripped. I think you can get a new one from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. I believe it is the same as a Ford has. Larry

hydraulic restrictors

IP: 147.72.67.195 Posted on June 1, 2007 at 12:26:29 PM by Todd

Does anyone know where I can find a set (4) of hydraulic restrictors for an 88. All of the fleetlines and Super tractors had them, and I just wanted to be able to use the hydraulics and keep it looking original. I can't find them anywhere. Can anyone help me? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): hydraulic restrictors

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on June 2, 2007 at 08:58:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I have some restrictors. Email me: cobalt@rconnect.com Phone: 712-362-2966. Larry

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