super 55 steering sector

IP: 72.152.48.172 Posted on June 29, 2010 at 07:12:08 AM by charles rutland

MR. Harsin; what type of oil or grease goes in the steering sector and how do you put it in? unit was rebuilt but mechanic did not install lubricant.

Re(1): super 55 steering sector

IP: 75.104.183.27 Posted on June 29, 2010 at 10:58:46 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a plug on the upper right hand side of the steering box. It shows you this in the Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. I would use 85 - 140 weight transmission grease in there. Larry

1555

IP: 70.169.108.167 Posted on June 29, 2010 at 06:01:57 AM by Robert

I am trying to remove motor on a 1555 for rebuild, should the motor and hydra-drive be removed together or seperate. There is a shaft inside both shafts that meet at chain couplings that wont allow me to lift both straight up and if I try to seperate the flex plate hits on motor mounts.

Re(1): 1555

IP: 75.104.183.27 Posted on June 29, 2010 at 06:50:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Pull them out together. The PTO drive shaft has to be removed from the rear before you start trying to remove the engine. Also, remove the chain coupling before you try to lift the engine out. Larry

550 Oliver

IP: 68.28.68.231 Posted on June 26, 2010 at 11:21:25 PM by John Berge

Could you please tell me the plug gap, point gap and timing for a 550 Oliver?

Re(1): 550 Oliver

IP: 75.104.183.27 Posted on June 29, 2010 at 06:48:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Spark plug gap is 25, point gap is 22, timing is about 4 before top dead center at idle speed. 550 rpm. Larry

1650 rims

IP: 72.251.63.155 Posted on June 25, 2010 at 09:41:57 AM by corre k

I was wondering if the centers are the same for 38 inch rims and 34 inch rims like to put 38s on tractor thnaks for a great site and all your help

Re(1): 1650 rims

IP: 75.104.183.195 Posted on June 27, 2010 at 06:58:52 PM by Larry Harsin

The centers are different. Larry

1855 turbo plumbing

IP: 74.216.85.19 Posted on June 25, 2010 at 00:19:20 AM by grant

Hi Larry,recently purchased a 1855 with the turbo partially disassembled.It appears they removed the compressor side of the turbo and kept using the tractor.We replaced the turbo with a setup from a 1955 and found the oil supply line to be different from the 1855(no oil cooler at the filter).we have been looking for the location for the turbo oil feed on the 1855(was removed with turbo),would you know where the supply port is located?

Re(1): 1855 turbo plumbing

IP: 75.104.183.195 Posted on June 27, 2010 at 06:57:20 PM by Larry Harsin

On that tractor, it was probably hooked into the oil gallery. There should be a little check valve where the pressurized oil drains out of the gallery, so it won't drain oil back. It's the same check valve that the 1955 uses. Larry

880 year

IP: 99.194.23.25 Posted on June 24, 2010 at 04:50:24 PM by lucas cates

larry i have a 880 diesel with a searal number 88-405-837 can you tell me what year it is

Re(1): 880 year

IP: 74.13.69.90 Posted on June 25, 2010 at 06:29:36 PM by Don

88 405 is a 1960 model. I believe the 837 means it has a helical gear transmission. Don.

Oliver 70 1948 Gas- Hot Starting Problem

IP: 69.208.14.246 Posted on June 23, 2010 at 10:18:55 PM by Terry Allen

When the tractor has reached full operating temp, it will not restart when hot. The engine turns over maybe one revolution and stops,and then another and stops. Have new battery (6-Volt), starter switch, good, heavy cables and the started was checked by a specialist and pronounced good. Connections are tight without rust or corrosion. Need some ideas- please.

Oliver 70 1948 Gas- Hot Starting Problem

IP: 69.208.14.246 Posted on June 23, 2010 at 10:18:55 PM by Terry Allen

When the tractor has reached full operating temp, it will not restart when hot. The engine turns over maybe one revolution and stops,and then another and stops. Have new battery (6-Volt), starter switch, good, heavy cables and the started was checked by a specialist and pronounced good. Connections are tight without rust or corrosion. Need some ideas- please.

Re(1): Oliver 70 1948 Gas- Hot Starting Problem

IP: 75.104.169.239 Posted on June 24, 2010 at 04:46:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Do you have over-sized pistons? It might be more than the starter can handle. You might want to consider an 8 volt or 12 volt battery. Larry

1850 Weak Hydraulics

IP: 207.177.14.243 Posted on June 23, 2010 at 09:54:59 AM by Chris

Hello Larry I have an 1850 diesel with 2 sets of hydraulic remotes. The hydraulics have always seemed week so I had the pump replaced when the PSI was too low. It didn't make much of a difference on hydraulic strength. Here's what I mean by strength. When I run my JD round baler I use both pairs of remotes. One to open the baler and the other to drop the pickup. When opening the baler the kicker arm has to kick the bale away from the baler. The hydraulics are many times too weak to push the bale away. That is until I noticed that if I push the other hydraulic lever for the pickup forward/down while pulling back on the hydraulic to open the baler. Then it's got the strength that you would expect a tractor hydraulic to have and kicks the bale away like a punter kicking a football! Any idea why would this be?

Re(1): 1850 Weak Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.169.239 Posted on June 24, 2010 at 04:44:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should check your Operator's Manual about the screws on top of the hydraulic housing under the seat. One of the screws may not be tight enough. They are bleed screws for single acting. One of them may not be tight enough. Larry

880 - 88

IP: 99.194.1.80 Posted on June 22, 2010 at 12:15:26 PM by lucas cates

larry i have an oliver super 88 diesel and a oliver 77 gas non super. I was wondering if you can fit an 880 crankshaft in a 88 block. And will a hood from a 880 fit on a 88. also I want to keep the same dash but put the hood on

Re(1): 880 - 88

IP: 75.104.169.239 Posted on June 23, 2010 at 07:05:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think an 880 crankshaft will work in an 88 block. I don't think the connecting rods will clear. The hood will not fit on an 88. The front end of the hood is made differently. Larry

6 volt battery

IP: 74.249.251.2 Posted on June 21, 2010 at 09:50:20 PM by Rob R

I have a 1655 with 2- 6 volt batteries in a series. I understand this makes the tractor have a 12 volt system. Even though I have replaced starters and batteries over the years, the motor still seems to be slow turning over. Can I put 2 - 12 volt batteries (that fit the battery boxes) and hook them up parallel to give more turning power?

Re(1): 6 volt battery

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 21, 2010 at 10:04:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can do that. Make sure your starter is in good condition before you do this. You may just have a starter that needs to be rebuilt. Larry

Oliver 550 starter problem

IP: 174.101.21.188 Posted on June 21, 2010 at 09:36:29 AM by Dan Inkrot

Sirs, I know very little about tractors, especially diesel. I was using an old Oliver 550 that my father in law has when it stopped apparently because it had ran out of fuel. I added about 5 gallons of diesel , but it just does not want to start. After waiting for an hour or two I was able to start it, but it died after about 15 seconds. It seems as if the fuel is not flowing. I've been able to do this several times, but never able to keep it running. Any suggestions? As I stated, I know very little about the tractor...I believe it may be pre 1970, and it had been running well until the fuel ran out.

Re(1): Oliver 550 starter problem

IP: 75.104.169.198 Posted on August 1, 2010 at 04:29:06 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like it is not getting enough fuel to keep running. It may have a plugged fuel filter. Check this first. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It will help you and there is a lot of info about your tractor in it. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Larry

hydrapower

IP: 206.183.190.203 Posted on June 15, 2010 at 08:27:42 PM by Paul

Hi Larry, we have an 1850 gas and the valve body for shifting the hydrapower is froze up. Is this something that can be seviced with out much problems? I have no idea if the rest of it is good or not. I dont want to open up a can of worms if its going to cause other problems. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks Paul

Re(1): hydrapower

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 15, 2010 at 11:06:23 PM by Larry Harsin

It's probably the little spring loaded ball that runs on the control spool. I would attempt to get that ball out of there from the top. It should be accessible from the top without a major tear-down. But, if you get the ball out and the spool still doesn't slide freely in it's bore, then the engine and the hydra power will have to be removed to correct this problem. Larry

Super 55 Starter

IP: 137.118.220.250 Posted on June 15, 2010 at 08:13:43 PM by gray fulp

Mr. Harsin. I have a 1955 super55 diesel will the starter for a 550 fit as i want to change to electric start. would it be hard to do this. thank you for any information. gray

Re(1): Super 55 Starter

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 15, 2010 at 11:02:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Do a tooth count on the starter pinion and see if they are the same. I'm not sure it will work. It might and then again it might not. You can try it and see. Larry

Oliver 88 temp gauge

IP: 70.184.229.7 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 08:52:34 PM by Greg

Larry, I have completed a major overhaul on Oliver 88 Diesel engine including a new thermostat. The old one ran right at normal and hot line. Had the radiator boiled out and didn't help. Got the thermo from Korves Oliver, does not seem to help, will actually run into the hot range and drop back down to normal/hot line. Is this normal or should I be concerned on the high temp reading? Thanks for any advise you have. Greg M

Re(1): Oliver 88 temp gauge

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 15, 2010 at 11:00:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it is probably running about where it ought to be. As long as it isn't steaming and boiling etc, I would think this is about right. Larry

Oliver 1600 - 1650

IP: 71.206.110.183 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 07:27:23 PM by Bernard Fehr

Hi Larry, Thanks for the very nice website related to Oliver Tractors - great tractors. Was wondering what the main differences were between the Oliver 1600 gas and 1650 gas (other than bump in horse power). Any particular things to look for when checking a used tractor?

Re(1): Oliver 1600 - 1650

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 07:59:08 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1600's and 1650's are very similar. They weigh nearly the same and most of the drive train and engine parts are the same. The 1650 has a different PTO, it has a dry air cleaner for the engine and many other improvements and refinements, but the tractors are basically the same. Looking for a used one is all about condition. Does it run? Is it all there? What are the tires like? Etc. Etc. Etc. Larry

SUPER 55 HYDRAULIC WHINE

IP: 69.19.14.36 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 02:23:36 PM by Patrick

So I had an over-full hydraulic reservoir, and water in the transmission oil when I began the spring. Last summer and fall, the last few times I used the tractor, I noticed leaks coming from the pto shaft, the seams of the transmission case, by the bell-housing, and from the bolt holes in the side of the case by the brake and clutch pedals-these are threaded holes that have never had bolts in them. This tractor had never had leaks for the whole of last summer that I had it. But it got worse each of those last few times I used it in the late summer/fall. I was told that it probably had the wrong fluids in it, so I changed them out with 90 weight gear oil in the transmission, and John Deere Hygard in the hydraulics this spring. The leakage seemed to stop shortly after I had started it up with the proper fluids in it. I really don't understand why milky looking oil was coming out the bolt holes. -Any oil. I used it for about 45 minutes to an hour, with almost no leakage. The trans oil seemed great. Yesterday was the first day I used it for a lengthy period, about 4 hours straight. It ran well and worked well for quite awhile. Though the leaks are nothing like they were, I was noticing oil coming out of the right side from the threaded bolt holes by the brake pedals ( DARKER OIL NOW ), sometimes it actually squirted onto the foot rest, rather than just running down the side of the case. WHY?-It isn't a huge amount of oil, but got the footrest pretty wet. It seems there should be no oil in there, and certainly none coming out of there. Eventually, while I was climbing a very steep incline, I noticed a whining noise, so I backed down the slope and got it level, and it was better. Everything seeked to work okay, but shortly afterward, I noticed that whenever the 3pt. was raised ( I was operating a brush hog ), there was some whining noise that got better when I lowered it. When I actually started watching, I noticed that the 3pt. was barely lifting, but when I lowered it to the stop, it would drop ( the whining sound would get better ), then raise slightly like usual. After I shut down the tractor, I noticed the hyd level was fine, whether the 3 pt. was down, or lifted, when I checked it. I also noticed that the hyd case and the dipstick were pretty hot. -I could barely hold on to the dipstick/cap. I did notice that there was some fluid that had come out the hyd breather, which I had attributed to being on the steep slope. When I bought this thing a year ago, the fluids & filters had been changed by the seller. Do you think that the hyd filter might be plugged or coming apart? I didn't change the filter this spring, when I changed the hydraulic fluid. Do you have any idea why I have trans oil, or engine oil, who knows what, coming out of these holes, and why the hyd whining sound? It kinda scares me about the 3 PT. not wanting to lift when hot, along with the hydraulic whine. It lifts great when cold, and not too bad when only warmed, but barely lifts at all when fully warmed up. I really think this thing doesn't like steep slopes, at least the hyd system and maybe trans? I was told that I should maybe get a stand-pipe kit that they made for these, and this would increase my fluid capacity, and maybe help the problem, but now it seems that it starts to whine and fails to lift when hot, after my hill incident. Still works great when cold! I also noticed that the left brake was not working well at all, and the tractor was pulling to the right in a stop. The left brake got a little better, after I used the brake awhile. Thanks for any help

Re(1): SUPER 55 HYDRAULIC WHINE

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 07:54:44 PM by Larry Harsin

You should change your hydraulic filter and use a med non-foaming hydraulic oil. Check the breather on the right axle housing and see if it is plugged. This is the breather for the transmission compartment. There are all kinds of possibilities of what is wrong with this tractor. You will just have to do the checks and figure out what you have. You may have need of mechanical attention. Larry

1600 gas

IP: 208.126.84.223 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 04:29:48 PM by ken

Where can I buy an authentic oliver muffler for my 1600 gas? I have looked everywhere but I keep striking out. Do you sell them?Thanks for listening

Re(1): 1600 gas

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 09:12:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from Ag Parts First. 866-264-9720. Larry

880

IP: 67.224.2.153 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 10:39:55 AM by Lisle Dunham

Have a wide front 880 Oliver with hydraulics not working, hydraulic oil going into the transmission. Seeking advice & what to do to fix it? Parts available? This tractor is in good shape otherwise. I have another narrow front "mint green" 880. This tractor has the clutch out of it (no power booster). Seeking advice on this tractor too. Do I need to pull the engine? This tractor also has bad power steering. The power steering only works intermittantly, and only steers right when it does. Turning left takes loads of muscle, as you have to overcome dead steering. Raising the front with the loader, you can manually move the narrow front wheels back and forth 25 degrees. There is a lot of slop. Tractor wanders terribly. Seeking advice on the steering issue/s too. What to expect if I try to fix this? Are Gemmer power steering units fixable? Parts available? Thanks, Lisle

Re(1): 880

IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 08:00:29 PM by Corky Marshall

With respect to the Gemmler power steering unit, you can order a complete rebuild kit from Maibach tractor in Creston, OH. I bought one about 6 weeks ago and took it to my mechanic. I just got the unit back and he said every part he needed was there, including a plastic replacement cap. Of course, it may be something other than seals. The cost of the unit was $164.50, including shipping, which I thought was reasonable. Can't help you with the other issues, as I'm not a mechanic. Corky

Re(2): 880

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 09:10:42 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic pump on your first tractor, is repairable and parts are available. Get the parts from Maibach as Corky has suggested. On the mist green 880, the engine does not have to be removed to repair the clutch. On this, I would remove the hood and fuel tank, then remove the batteries, unbolt the dash and lay it up on the engine. Then remove the PTO drive shaft from the back. Now, you can uncouple the clutch shaft, unbolt the bell housing and service the clutch. If there is oil present in the flywheel housing, you will probably want to replace the rear main seal while you are in there. Larry

1550 hydraulic

IP: 71.164.117.229 Posted on June 12, 2010 at 10:04:19 PM by robert lapage

Larry I have a 1550 oliver where the 3 pt hitch doesnt work. I have the top off and have found a I think its a relief valve that was broken off at the elbow. I can not find where it goes. I have the book but it doesnt show where it should go. The loader and outlets work ok but nothing for the arms. Thanks Robert

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic

IP: 4.248.220.107 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 07:04:37 AM by Larry from MD

That elbow screws right into the lift cylinder. Be sure to get a high quality elbow for hydrolic use.

Re(2): 1550 hydraulic

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 07:39:22 AM by Larry Harsin

That valve is supposed to be attached to the 3 point lift cylinder. The whole hydraulic system will have to be removed from the tractor to repair this. Call O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and have them send you an elbow made out of steel to replace the broken iron fitting. Larry

Re(3): 1550 hydraulic

IP: 163.153.134.19 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 07:50:56 AM by robert lapage

Thank you.. Do you mean the top or the whole unit itself?

Re(4): 1550 hydraulic

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 14, 2010 at 08:00:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I mean the whole unit has to be removed from the tractor to be able to fix that. Larry

880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 208.38.105.194 Posted on June 12, 2010 at 07:38:03 AM by Brad

Larry, Will a hydraulic pump from a 77 fit on an 880? The only difference I see if the center plate from the 77 measures 1 3/8" wide will the 880 pump measures 1 1/8" wide. Thank you, Brad

Re(1): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 75.104.161.30 Posted on June 13, 2010 at 07:35:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. Larry

1755 hydraulics

IP: 72.14.70.61 Posted on June 8, 2010 at 10:10:09 PM by R. Choate

have changed the hydraulic fluid and filters on 1755 , now no hydraulic pressure anywhere?

Re(1): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:28:32 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. There is a bleeder on top of the filter. It has to be bled so the air can get out, before you start your tractor after changing the filter. Without doing this, you could very well damage the hydraulic pump. Possibly you have done this already. You need an Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 72.14.71.150 Posted on June 12, 2010 at 08:10:30 AM by r. choate

Thanks for the info, this is my 83 year old neihbor's tractor, he had called me with this problem, got lucky and didnt burn up the pump, thank goodness, he owns a manual now, the old saying: If all else fails read the instructions, ha!

Bosch Injector Pump Governer shaft SEAL

IP: 207.69.137.10 Posted on June 8, 2010 at 04:33:30 PM by John Rogers

Does anyone have a good seal part number for the governer/throttle seal on a Bosch injector pump used on the Super 77 Diesel?? Mine is leaking fuel and I want a replacement oil seal before I take the existing one out.

Re(1): Bosch Injector Pump Governer shaft SEAL

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:25:36 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to get that seal from Central Fuel Injection in Estherville IA 712-362-4200. They'll know what seal it is, Larry

70 valves

IP: 75.104.147.8 Posted on June 8, 2010 at 05:28:06 AM by gary

what should the valves be set at? i set them at.009 and .016 but they seem noisy.thanks again for your help.

Re(1): 70 valves

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:23:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Set intakes and exhaust both at .011. Larry

Lug Bolts for Oliver 550

IP: 71.171.215.34 Posted on June 7, 2010 at 10:43:09 PM by Mike Dingess

Where is a good suppleir for lug bolts for my Oliver 550?

Re(1): Lug Bolts for Oliver 550

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:10:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1600 temp.gauge

IP: 209.236.250.213 Posted on June 7, 2010 at 09:10:39 PM by jim

i have a 1600 gas. temp. gauge dont work . whats the best way to check gauge and sender. sender has one wire.

Re(1): 1600 temp.gauge

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:09:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Ground the sender wire and the gauge should read hot. This would indicate a bad sender. Otherwise, the gauge is probably defective. Larry

354 Perkins

IP: 70.169.108.230 Posted on June 7, 2010 at 07:38:30 PM by Robert

Will a 354 Perkins motor out of a 510 Massey Combine fit a 1555 and what problems could I run into?

Re(1): 354 Perkins

IP: 4.248.217.79 Posted on June 8, 2010 at 11:51:43 AM by Larry from MD

No that won't fit. Its way too much power and size.

Re(2): 354 Perkins

IP: 75.104.168.63 Posted on June 9, 2010 at 07:07:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Larry from MD. Larry

Clutch Bearing Frozen?

IP: 69.19.14.19 Posted on June 5, 2010 at 05:32:01 PM by Kevin

Larry, I was bushhoging, put the Super 55 into neutral, got off, opened the gate, got back on, and suddenly had no clutch. I would press the pedal, good pressure (guess the spring is good), but could not get the S55 into any gear, forward or reverse. I thought the adjustment nut may be loose, so I tightened it, eventually breaking the adjustment bolt (thanks for the tip about Tom at O'Briens). Replaced the bolt, adjusted, but still, no clutch. I did slam it into 1st (ouch)... but when I stepped on the clutch pedal - kept heading right for the fence! No slippage before going bad, (pulled out shrubs - stressed it pretty well, and no slippage). Could it be that perhaps the bearing just went bad? Do they go that quickly? Would like to have an idea of what I'm into before I split the tractor. Any thoughts? Thanks! Kevin

S 55 Governor

IP: 74.32.166.85 Posted on June 3, 2010 at 05:51:00 AM by Alan

My Super 55 has had a noisy governor for some time. The other day the engine speed began to fluctuate so I bought a used governor and pulled off the old one. The shaft was broken off next to the gear and now the replacement is also noisy. I assume the bushing in the block that receives the bearing is ruined and causing the chatter. Can this be replaced with the engine in the tractor and are parts available?

Re(1): S 55 Governor

IP: 75.104.161.33 Posted on June 3, 2010 at 08:14:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That bushing could be replaced easily. I would surely inspect the cam gear. That is probably what is causing the problem along with the bushing. I have cam gear and bushing. 712-362-2966 Larry

1655 Oliver engine oil

IP: 65.30.147.131 Posted on June 2, 2010 at 07:46:49 PM by Tim Zirbel

Hey Larry, I bought a 1974 1655 with the waukesha diesel in it. I'm gonna drop the oil in it and switch over to Lucas oil, my question is what is the oil capacity of that motor, with and without the filter? It is a cartridge style filter. Thanks

Re(1): 1655 Oliver engine oil

IP: 75.104.161.33 Posted on June 3, 2010 at 08:12:05 PM by Larry Harsin

With the filter, probably about 8 qts. Check in your Operator's Manual. Larry

550 PTO question

IP: 68.103.72.144 Posted on June 2, 2010 at 09:45:51 AM by Joe Shaffer

How thick is a new fiber and steel?? Also why is there no online PDF file of the parts book??

Re(1): 550 PTO question

IP: 75.104.161.33 Posted on June 4, 2010 at 07:26:32 AM by Larry Harsin

The steel is .0775 in thickness. The fiber is .160 in thickness. I don't know why there is no online PDF of the parts book. I suppose no one has put it on there. You can buy the manuals from the museum in Charles City IA. They have the Operator's Manual, the Shop Manual and the Parts Manual. 641-228-1099. Larry

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