"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - June, 2013 Archives


6 Volt 77 Wiring Diagram

IP: 108.192.76.32 Posted on June 30, 2013 at 04:58:16 PM by Sherm

Do you have a source or a link to a complete 77 Gas 6 volt wiring diagram?

Re(1): 6 Volt 77 Wiring Diagram

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 1, 2013 at 08:11:39 AM by Larry Harsin

Call the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. The wiring diagram is in the Operator's Manual. Larry


1650 rear wheels

IP: 216.74.211.220 Posted on June 27, 2013 at 12:37:33 PM by Bob

I have a 1650 gas with 16.9 x 34 rear tires. They have cast centers, and the rims are not power adjust. Do you know what style the call these rims and where I might find a replacement, as calcium has eaten holes in one rim ? Thanks; Bob

Re(1): 1650 rear wheels

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on June 29, 2013 at 07:15:49 AM by Larry Harsin

They are just 1650 Rear Rims. Check with Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry


Super 55 Loses Power

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on June 26, 2013 at 03:25:53 PM by Karl

Larry, I have an old and tired Super 55 gas tractor that starts and runs fine to a point, but as it warms up the engine loses power and dies or barely can pull the tractor. I also have to keep it fully choked to keep it running at all. Does this seem like a leaky intake manifold to you or should I look for something else?

Re(1): Super 55 Loses Power

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on June 27, 2013 at 07:16:52 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like it is not getting enough fuel. Larry


Super 88 Hydraulics

IP: 99.47.182.233 Posted on June 25, 2013 at 11:56:59 PM by Craig Scott

The lift arms won't stay up, with or without a load. Put the cylinder on another tractor/implement, and the cylinder held just fine. The cylinder extends and retracts in a normal manner, it won't stay extended.

Re(1): Super 88 Hydraulics

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on June 27, 2013 at 07:15:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Your problem is probably a blown O ring in the valve body. Or, it could be a bad interlock. It could also be a bad thermo-relief valve. Larry


770D

IP: 204.10.44.254 Posted on June 25, 2013 at 09:12:09 AM by Dean

I have a 770 D , I am not able to get to the bottom set of gears. I am only able to access R2, 3rd, 4th and 6th. The gears in the upper tree. Trying to shift to the lower tree is unsuccessful.

Re(1): 770D

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on June 27, 2013 at 07:13:29 AM by Larry Harsin

It could possibly have a problem with the poppit block. I'd remove the gear shift lever and see if I could slide the center rail using a pry bar or a large screwdriver. If you are successful, then possibly the shift lever was dislocated. Otherwise, you may have a worn poppit block. Larry


1850 D front end

IP: 204.10.44.254 Posted on June 24, 2013 at 09:58:59 AM by Dean

I have an 1850 D. I just learned it has a Utility front end when ordering a part. How common were the utility front ends?. I can not remember seeing another similiar one.

Re(1): 1850 D front end

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 25, 2013 at 07:27:36 AM by Larry Harsin

They weren't real common, but there were a few made that way. More of the Utility Front Ends were used on the smaller tractors. Larry


1755

IP: 70.100.62.86 Posted on June 23, 2013 at 10:08:23 AM by steven leete

how do you determine if you can put 4 wheel drive in your existing 2 wheel drive tractor? is there something special about the transmission? or is a special shaft required?

Re(1): 1755

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on June 24, 2013 at 06:55:49 AM by Larry Harsin

It takes a special bevel pinion shaft. If you were able to find that special shaft, then it would take a complete dismanteling of your drive train. Larry


carb kit

IP: 173.254.162.14 Posted on June 21, 2013 at 07:43:43 PM by John

Im trying to find a carb rebuild kit for a zenith 14991B off of a oliver 1650. A 14991 isn't correct so it must be the 14991B. I've searched all the auto stores, the local agco dealer, and internet with no luck. Please help! Re(1): carb kit

IP: 206.193.242.100 Posted on June 23, 2013 at 11:18:10 AM by Dale H

call Treadwell Carb Co 607-829-8321

Re(2): carb kit

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 24, 2013 at 06:53:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Or, you can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1855 Oliver stuck in sixth and r2

IP: 174.232.1.40 Posted on June 20, 2013 at 02:36:51 PM by Doug Peterson

We have an 1855 that is stuck in sixth and r2. Can only shift between those two gears. Want to know if there is some trick to getting it to release. Happened when backed up on a high spot.

Re(1): 1855 Oliver stuck in sixth and r2

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on June 21, 2013 at 06:46:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to take the shifter out and see if you can get it back where it belongs. Otherwise, you will have to take the lid off and see what you can. Larry


1650 hydra power

IP: 71.49.77.153 Posted on June 19, 2013 at 10:16:14 PM by Justin Gravitt

I just rebuilt my 2 speed hydra power including the lube circuit seat everything seems to work good in direct and under drive but when the tractor is idling I can hear a rattle sounds like before I replaced my chain once I press in the clutch the noise goes away for awhile is this something to worry about also I paid close attention to matching up the sprockets on the drive train this sounds more internal

Re(1): 1650 hydra power

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 20, 2013 at 07:21:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it is anything you need to be too concerned about. I think it will be o.k. Larry


oliver 770 s/n

IP: 166.181.81.223 Posted on June 19, 2013 at 08:02:14 PM by Blaine Bailey

I HAVE A OLIVER 770. S/N I COULD FIND IS 61-534-721 WITH SPECIFICATION NUMBER OF 37-0028. LOOKING TO REBUILD ENGINE. CAN YOU TELL ME IF THE S/N IS RIGHT. CAN'T. SEEM TO FIND IT ANYWHERE. THANKS BLAINE.

Re(1): oliver 770 s/n

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on June 20, 2013 at 07:19:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I think that would be the correct serial number. This would make it a 1958 model. You can get an engine rebuild kit from Korves Oliver, 618-939-6681. Larry


1600 steering

IP: 70.195.193.253 Posted on June 19, 2013 at 01:04:06 PM by Sherri Duke

I have an Oliver 1600, I accidentally popped the clutch while holding the steering wheel and pulledthe ssteering column out too far and i we can't get it to go back down. I like the position of the wheel, its easier for me to reach, but my husband wants it fixed.

Re(1): 1600 steering

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 20, 2013 at 07:17:47 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can't get it to go back down, you need to get a Serviceman to fix it. It is probably just jammed. Try pushing it back down using a block of wood, but don't be too hard on it. Larry

Re(2): 1600 steering

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on June 20, 2013 at 07:53:02 AM by robertt lapage

I had a similar thing happen as well. For me there was a shield that was slightly turned. I moved it out of the way with a screw driver and it slid back down in. good luck!!


1650 fly wheel

IP: 138.103.17.20 Posted on June 18, 2013 at 02:30:45 PM by Mark Brunner

Hello Larry Can the fly wheel on the 1650 be machined ? If so how much can I take off.If not where can I find a replacement ?

Re(1): 1650 fly wheel

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 19, 2013 at 07:01:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It can be machined. The machine shop should be able to tell how much can come off. Be sure and talk to your local machine shop that specializes in doing this. I have a fly wheel if you need a different one. Larry


1755 transmission

IP: 158.81.191.1 Posted on June 16, 2013 at 02:36:28 AM by Bob

Hi Larry, I have a 1755 I recently bought that I believe the tranny is acting up on. I was running down the road pulling a hill and the tractor acted like I had locked the brakes up. I stopped me on the spot and I had to disengage the clutch to keep from stalling it. I was on a hill and the tractor would not roll and was very difficult to get out of gear. I shifted from 6th to the low side and the tractor drove back home with no issues. I did not try 6th again....I pulled the trans cover and found the front snapring on the input shafthad came out of the groove and allowed the high range gear to move ahead. I figured that was the problem, so I pulled the motor and replaced the loose fitting snapring with a new one. All the other gears looked ok as best I could tell and all was very clean inside. Well I ran it some the other day and it did the same thing in R2. It is very intermitten. Any ideas where I should be looking? I does have the over/under and it seems to work fine. I am not sure what position I had the over/under when my issues have occurred. Has only happened twice, but It does not sound good when it happens!! Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1755 transmission

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on June 17, 2013 at 06:53:00 AM by Larry Harsin

You were probably right next to the problem with that snap ring. There is probably a gear that is seized to the shaft somewhere. It is probably because the lube pump isn't working. Larry


Carb

IP: 75.219.124.145 Posted on June 15, 2013 at 08:25:19 PM by Matt

I have an Oliver 88 with a super 88 over haul kit, Along with some head work done. I was wondering if I can put in bigger jets into the TSX-374 or do I need to a bigger carb. What would you recommend?

Re(1): Carb

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 17, 2013 at 06:48:59 AM by Larry Harsin

A lot of the 88's with the big pistons, work o.k. with the TSX-374 as is, without the larger carb. I'd try it first before I'd try making alterations. Larry


Super 88 clutch

IP: 76.20.215.83 Posted on June 15, 2013 at 09:41:11 AM by charles rutland

I have a super 88d clutch that will not release,the throw out bearing seems to hit and make a grinding noise before pressure plate releases. cane the fingers on plate be adjusted to make contact sooner? can the clutch be replaced without pulling the engine?

Re(1): super 88 clutch

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on June 17, 2013 at 06:46:27 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like the clutch has to be taken apart. I do this without pulling the engine. Remove the hood and fuel tank, unbolt the dash and fold it up over the engine. Remove the long PTO drive shaft from the rear. Larry


Oliver 77 standard

IP: 24.183.49.19 Posted on June 13, 2013 at 07:42:50 AM by Ernest Horinek

I have an Oliver 77 standard. On the left rear axle housing, the fender bracket broke off due to the tractor rolling over. I can not find a replacement housing for the standard 77. However, the 88 standard housing looks exactly the same, but the axle shaft if larger than in an 88 than in a 77. If the bearing are different in diameter in size will a housing from an 88 fit on a 77? Second, does any one have a standard 77 housing for sale? The number on the 77 housing is M700A. On an 88 the number is K700A.

Re(1): Oliver 77 standard

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 17, 2013 at 06:42:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have this. The 88 Standard won't work. Check with Larry Svehlak. 512-633-5014. Larry


1650 oliver hydraulics

IP: 70.198.8.9 Posted on June 11, 2013 at 07:27:42 AM by Byron

The inside hyd lever closes to the seat settles after you raise the implment.

Re(1): 1650 oliver hydraulics

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 12, 2013 at 07:10:01 AM by Larry Harsin

It could have a bad check valve on the interlock, which is on the lid. Or, it could also be a bad thermo-relief valve that is on the underside of the top lid. Larry


Oliver 1450

IP: 74.15.244.61 Posted on June 10, 2013 at 10:25:13 PM by Jp

My 1450 was running fine and then just lost power and quit it still had 1/4 tank of feul filled it up changed filter but no go pull started it would run for a minute or two then quit any help would be great

Re(1): Oliver 1450

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 11, 2013 at 07:06:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I would guess it isn't getting fuel some place. Check to see if there is some obstruction in the fuel tank. Larry


1650 diesel

IP: 198.45.168.188 Posted on June 10, 2013 at 11:13:37 AM by chad

I to want change all of the fluids in the tractor. Will you please give me a run down on what you recommend for fluids? Thank you very much.

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 11, 2013 at 07:04:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Follow the recommendations in the Manual, but use 15w40 in the diesel engine. Use a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic. Larry


1850 hydraulic remotes

IP: 108.22.89.220 Posted on June 6, 2013 at 07:08:34 PM by Ben Gordon

I'm having a problem with pressure crossing over between the right and left remote valves on my 1850 (and have the same problem on my 2050). When I push the right remote lever, the right remote works (about 2200 psi), but the left remote also builds pressure (about 2200 psi). If I push the left remote lever, the left remote works (about 2200 psi) and the right builds a little pressure (maybe 5-600 psi). The problem with this is that I need both remotes with my round baler. I usually hook up the tie cylinder the right remote, and the cylinder that releases the bale to the left. When I move the right, it creates enough pressure to open the endgate a little bit, and the belts slow down. I didn't have this problem baling last year. We took the cover off several times now, and replaced a couple of o-rings, checked the thermal plugs (ok) and the spools (they looked ok). We even switched the spools, which made things worse. Any suggestions? I spoke with the folks at Maibach tractor in Ohio, and they indicated they had run into this problem before, and their only solution was to change the top cover. That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. To make matters worse, they don't have any top covers at the moment.

Re(1): 1850 hydraulic remotes

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on June 7, 2013 at 02:21:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I would install a Power Beyond and use it to run the baler with a separate 2 spool valve. Larry


Radiator temp.

IP: 198.228.228.164 Posted on June 6, 2013 at 01:45:00 PM by Jim

What is the working temp. for a 1655 Oliver or 2-70 White? Mine has to have cardboard in the radiator when it is cold weather and runs hot (210 deg.) working in warm to hot weather. Runs cooler in the morning and at night when outside temp. is cooler.

Re(1): Radiator temp.

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on June 7, 2013 at 02:18:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Your thermostat isn't working. It is supposed to run about 180*. Larry


Clutches

IP: 173.219.173.13 Posted on June 3, 2013 at 01:16:15 PM by rwskinner

Larry, you use to have a source for the PTO Clutch disc for the Ford 530 series square balers. Can you still get both sizes?

Re(1): Clutches

IP: 173.219.173.13 Posted on June 3, 2013 at 01:34:45 PM by rwskinner

Here are the dimensions:
2 OF Clutch Plate 1: 6" OD x 3.500" ID x 0.125" Thick Grooved one side (Doesn't matter) Looks like Raybestos #7500652
2 OF Clutch Plate 2: 9-1/2" OD x 7-1/8" ID x 0.125" Thick

Re(2): Clutches

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on June 5, 2013 at 08:32:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He can help you. Larry


Free Counters from SimpleCount.com
Web Counters