"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2008 Archives


Hyd connections on 1600

IP: 65.165.246.231 Posted on March 30, 2008 at 07:48:09 PM by Tim

We are putting an oliver 1610 loader on our 1600 row crop. There are two hydraulic control levers next to the three point control lever. but only one outlet on the back. the hoses for this come out of the left side, there is a coresponding set of plugs on the right side of the tractor. can we just remove these plugs and put conectors to use the other hydraulic outlet ? Thanks for any info. Tim

Re(1): Hyd connections on 1600

IP: 75.104.161.78 Posted on March 31, 2008 at 05:50:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can. You need to get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. All of this is explained in the manual. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 651-228-1099. Larry


1938 Oliver 70 5th & 6th Gears

IP: 67.0.103.17 Posted on March 28, 2008 at 05:56:30 AM by Don Williams

While tractor was in shop getting motor rebuilt I asked him to remove the spacer blocking 5th & 6th gear. We had not been able to try those gears until now and while the gear shift goes into the correct position, neither gear works. Excellent Mechanic, He had 70 shop manual showing how to remove, I have not talked to him yet. Any Idea what could have been missed when removing the spacer? What will we need to do to make gears engage and work?

Re(1): 1938 Oliver 70 5th & 6th Gears

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 28, 2008 at 06:19:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. If the mechanic followed what the shop manual said, that is what I would have done. There must be some little thing he missed. Larry


Oliver 770

IP: 67.58.165.177 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 02:44:20 PM by Titus Risser

My 770 starts but will not keep running unless choke is out i just put new points in it not to long ago and it was running fine.

Re(1): Oliver 770

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:55:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is check to see if you have a good stream of fuel at the fuel strainer. If that checks o.k. then, I would take the carb off and clean it out. Then, try running the tractor again. Larry


Super 55 Injection Pump

IP: 70.105.103.67 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 01:31:05 PM by Matt

Larry, I have a feeling my injection pump is going out, or is bad. The tractor used to smoke when turning over, and start, but now won't smoke at all when turning over. To get it to start, it takes a snort of either. Is it a possibility that the pump is bad even though the tractor will purr once running? Also when I noticed this, I started to hear a noise while turning over. Could something in the pump cause dragging on the engine? The starter was rebuilt a couple years ago, and also the lift pump and engine was rebuilt. Thanks

Re(1): Super 55 Injection Pump

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:53:14 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check, is to be sure that you have good fuel delivery to that injection head when you are cranking it. Crack the bleed screw on the final fuel filter and fuel should squirt out there when you are cranking it to start it. If you find good fuel pressure and it still starts hard, like you describe, you may have a weak injection head. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Injection Pump

IP: 70.105.103.67 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 07:57:46 PM by Matt

Well Larry, I got it fixed tonight. The starter was running on 2 brushes instead of 4. I rebuilt the starter, which gave me the cranking speed to get fuel to the injection pump. Also earlier my fuel pump was also clogged and a partial clog in the fuel shutoff. Thanks, Matt

Re(3): Super 55 Injection Pump

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 11:23:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm glad to hear that you got it going! Larry


Hyd relief shims

IP: 75.163.82.82 Posted on March 24, 2008 at 07:42:55 PM by Ron Hansen

Larry, Back on March 8 you made reference to adding shims in the relief valve on a 1650. I recently had a new hydraulic pump installed in my 1655 but I still don't get any 3 point and remote cylinder response until about half throttle. Can you provide a part no. for those shims for a 1655. My closest AGCO dealer is not well versed in Olivers and I didn't have any luck finding them on their parts website. Thank you

Re(1): Hyd relief shims

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:27:05 AM by Larry Harsin

1655's have a different relief valve that does not use shims. There is a brass screen in with the relief valve. Sometimes it gets broken or dirty. Clean this screen or replace it if it is damaged. I can get you a part number if you need it. Since your AGCO dealer isn't knowledgeable about Olivers, you could call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1800 wheel weights

IP: 97.112.111.59 Posted on March 24, 2008 at 07:33:47 PM by scott

could anyone tell me how much the inside wheel weights weigh

Re(1): 1800 wheel weights

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:23:04 AM by Larry Harsin

They are about 145 lbs. each. Larry


oliver 1800 diesel-lost all hydraulics

IP: 204.11.80.98 Posted on March 24, 2008 at 06:41:33 AM by todd

I recently installed a front loader on my oliver 1800 diesel. As I was lifting a bucket of gravel, I lost all hydraulics, power steering and 3 point hitch. The bucket is stuck about a foot off the ground and I can't lower it or raise it. I unhooked the loader from the tractor and I still don't have any thing. Is there a resettable pop-off or pressure relief that may be sticking? I removed the front cover on the hydraulic housing and saw the pump shaft is still turning. My shop manual was not much help. Do you think the pump went bad or spun the shaft in the pump? Will I need to remove the entire hydraulic housing to fix this? Please help. Thank You!

Re(1): oliver 1800 diesel-lost all hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:22:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Either the pump has failed or an oil line between the pump and housing has broken. Make sure that the PTO is working. If your pump shaft is still turning, you will have to remove the hydraulic off of the tractor before you can get the pump out. There is no resettable pop-off. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1800 diesel-lost all hydraulics

IP: 204.11.80.98 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:50:56 PM by todd

Thank You, I removed the entire hydraulic housing from the tractor. I noticed that there are wires/electrical connections inside the housing ( over the 3pth cylinder.) There are no leads/wires for anything electrical leading out of this housing. there are also short wires that are hanging out of the end of the hydraulic levers. I suspect they were disabled for a reason by the last owner? everything seemed to work fine untill now. Is this ok or do I have bigger trouble?

Re(3): oliver 1800 diesel-lost all hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:59:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Disregard the wire business. People don't use that anymore. You havn't found the problem yet. Larry


Oliver 1550 Gas

IP: 71.7.101.197 Posted on March 23, 2008 at 06:25:43 PM by Steve

Do you know how to tell the difference between the clutch slipping or high/low 2 speed malfunctioning? I have an Oliver 1550 Gas.

Re(1): Oliver 1550 Gas

IP: 75.104.188.80 Posted on March 23, 2008 at 08:24:05 PM by Larry Harsin

If your engine clutch is slipping, you should be able to put it in 6th gear and make the engine clutch slip with the hydra-power in the low side. It not, then your hydra-power might be at fault. Larry


pto shafts

IP: 98.222.172.202 Posted on March 22, 2008 at 09:57:29 AM by Matt

On a 1850, to go to a 1000 rpm pto setting do you have to purchase a 1000 rpm shaft or are the 540 shafts reversable?

Re(1): pto shafts

IP: 4.248.220.208 Posted on March 22, 2008 at 10:25:55 AM by Larry from Maryland

The shafts are not reversible. You can buy the 1000 shaft and bearing,or pull out the 540 shaft to 1000 put it back in and use an adapter. It only shifts with the shaft out and not all the tractors came with both sets of gears in them. If you have the shifter you have both gears.

Re(2): pto shafts

IP: 75.163.82.82 Posted on March 24, 2008 at 07:25:24 PM by Ron Hansen

I believe the 540 shaft is a bit longer and will not fit when the shift rail is in the 1000 rpm position, as a safety precaution. I have heard of people sawing off the 540 shaft so it will fit. I wouldn't recommend it though. Just go buy a 1000 shaft and bearing to be on the safe side.

Re(3): pto shafts

IP: 75.104.182.136 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 05:30:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Ron is correct. Larry

Re(4): pto shafts

IP: 4.249.108.85 Posted on March 25, 2008 at 11:02:15 AM by Larry from Maryland

On the old 1950t we had i could run either shaft at either speed. I guess the safety parts were not in there. I remember one time my father slugged it up in 1000 and could not free the machine, I shifted into 540 and pushed the stuff right out.


550 carb

IP: 70.226.128.76 Posted on March 20, 2008 at 06:27:48 AM by Brad

I have a 550 with a marvel tsx 811 carb everything inside except the needle and jets have been replaced.but it continues to leak gas out of the intake of the carb When it is not running.it is a constant drip ,but does not leak when it is running and it runs just fine

Re(1): 550 carb

IP: 75.104.161.6 Posted on March 21, 2008 at 05:15:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I would either replace the carb, or I would get a solenoid shut off and place it on the fuel line ahead of the carb. Larry


1850

IP: 74.241.172.35 Posted on March 18, 2008 at 06:37:17 PM by jerrad

i need to change the gasket on the pump as it is leaking. can i just pull it up real easy put on the gasket and set the pump back down?

Re(1): 1850

IP: 75.104.161.6 Posted on March 19, 2008 at 06:48:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is the normal way to do it. If it is the gasket on the top lid, there are connectors with O rings. The O rings on those connectors need to be replaced also. Larry


770 power steering

IP: 76.204.89.90 Posted on March 17, 2008 at 08:08:49 PM by Brad

I have a 770 with a manual steering oliver wide front.Will a gemmer powersteering gear adapt to this front end or would I have to change the pitman shaftout for one like the 55 series front ends. The reason i ask is i have a good gemmer gear off of an 1800 laying in the shop and if it will fit i would just get a pump and not have a ton of $$$$ into it.thanks for any help.

Re(1): 770 power steering

IP: 75.104.161.6 Posted on March 18, 2008 at 05:51:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That will work. To find the pedestal that will take the Gemmer unit will be your next hurdle. Larry

Re(2): 770 power steering

IP: 76.204.89.90 Posted on March 18, 2008 at 09:06:35 AM by Brad

When you say pedestal I assume you are referring to the cast plate that bolts the whole front to the tub.Would you happen to know the casting # for that pedestal.might make for an easier find at the bone yard.Thanks for your help.By the way that's a sharp lookin 880 you got there! Dad had one back when he had milkers said it was a great chore tractor.

Re(3): 770 power steering

IP: 75.104.161.6 Posted on March 19, 2008 at 07:43:40 PM by Larry Harsin

The part number for the carrier (pedestal) is 107008A. You will also need one K752B seal and one K752C seal. You will need one KS5044 bearing and one KS5045 bearing. If your serial number is before 162766, you will need pitman shaft # K6758A. If your serial number comes after that serial number (a late model 770), you will need pitman shaft # 107009A. Larry


fluid types

IP: 98.222.172.202 Posted on March 16, 2008 at 01:32:44 PM by Matthew Glaser

Hi Larry, We have a 66 1850 gas tractor. In our manual it says to use type A transmission fluid for the hydra power drive. Is there an alternate fluid type we can use sense type A is becoming harder to find? Thanks

Re(1): fluid types

IP: 75.104.161.6 Posted on March 17, 2008 at 05:56:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Use Dexron-Mercon. Larry


77RowCrop hydraulic system

IP: 24.245.55.1 Posted on March 14, 2008 at 11:31:50 AM by Mike

I am considering adding a small loader to my 77RC. Is the tractor's hydaulic system able to handle this or would I have to add a PTO pump & external reservor???

Re(1): 77RowCrop hydraulic system

IP: 75.104.161.96 Posted on March 16, 2008 at 12:47:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The 77 hydraulic will be able to handle a loader all right. Larry


Bevel Pinion

IP: 207.58.218.42 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 10:43:43 AM by Rick

After swapping out a rear axle and bull gear, I have found that my bevel pinion has a broken tooth on it. Figure since I have it all opened up I should replace this as well. Can I get the bevel out without taking the rear main frame off or am I in for a major job here?

Re(1): Bevel Pinion

IP: 4.254.118.117 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 09:42:37 PM by Larry Harsin

It depends on what model Oliver you have and you didn't say. But usually, you have to tear it all apart to get it out. The exceptions would be a S55 or a 550. Larry

Re(2): Bevel Pinion

IP: 207.58.218.42 Posted on March 12, 2008 at 07:33:08 AM by Rick

Sorry Larry, I have a 550 and can't really find too much information in my manuals or the sales manual that definitely tells you one way or the other. I have all manuals including the sell manual, but can't tell if I need to split the tractor to get it out. I was hoping that maybe I could get this out without too much to take apart beside axle and brake assembly.

Re(3): Bevel Pinion Oliver 550

IP: 75.104.191.253 Posted on March 12, 2008 at 08:44:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you are going to have to split the tractor, but you may not have to go as far as usual. You may not have to remove the differential. You may not have to take out the axle and the brake. My Parts Manual is out in the shop. Larry

Re(4): Bevel Pinion Oliver 550

IP: 75.104.191.253 Posted on March 13, 2008 at 06:56:02 AM by Larry Harsin

After checking this morning: According to info that I have, the tractor will have to be split. The PTO clutch and the center section will have to be removed from the transmission housing. And according to my Shop Manual the right hand brake housing and the bull pinion will have to be removed, so that you can get the bevel pinion up out of the transmission. Larry

Re(5): Bevel Pinion Oliver 550

IP: 207.58.218.42 Posted on March 13, 2008 at 12:19:24 PM by rick

Thanks Larry. That is what is what I was afraid of.


Oliver paint colors

IP: 199.86.17.109 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 07:02:41 PM by Tony Thompson

How many different colors of green were used on Oliver tractors from 1938 to end? Where can I purchase these colors from?

Re(1): Oliver paint colors

IP: 4.254.118.117 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 09:48:28 PM by Larry Harsin

There is about 4 shades. The older the tractor, the darker the green. Different paint companies have different shades. Van Sickle has some good ones. We have a list of Martin Senour paint colors that a paint mixer can match most of the time. We like to get Meadow Green and Clover White from our AGCO Dealer. They have it also in spray cans for touch up and that is handy. We find it is cheaper in our area, than having it mixed. Larry

Re(2): Oliver paint colors

IP: 69.71.43.232 Posted on March 27, 2008 at 03:17:16 PM by Tony Kurth

I would like to know what the martin senour colors are for an oliver 88 1952 model. I would really like to know the number so I can get some green paint mixed.


1650 diesel

IP: 72.47.57.119 Posted on March 8, 2008 at 04:35:28 PM by KIM

How can i check the compression on my 1650 diesel and what should it read? Also,,I connected my psi tester to one my hydraulic ports for my front end loader, one that is on the right side toward the back if you are sitting in the seat of the tractor, (the loader is very very slow and it wont lift a round bale,,) the gauge only went up to 1,000 psi at 1/2 throttle, at idle it would show around 500, do you think my pump is going out or is there another test i should try to check it??

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.182.186 Posted on March 8, 2008 at 07:52:39 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to have at least 1750 - 1800 lbs of pressure at half throttle. I would unscrew the relief valve and add more shims and see if that makes any difference. The relief valve is on the right side of the unit, behind the filter. It is a big hex nut. If this doesn't raise your pressure, your pump is weak and will need to be replaced. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 72.47.57.119 Posted on March 9, 2008 at 08:47:49 AM by KIM

How do I check Compression on the engine, an what is a proper range.

Re(3): 1650 diesel

IP: 4.158.84.24 Posted on March 10, 2008 at 06:39:28 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't really check the compression on the engine. I look for blow-by coming out the breather tube. There are gauges available to do this. One method is to drill a hole in one of the energy cell caps, then get a gauge that will read up to 500 lbs. and test each cylinder this way. You'll have to leave the 2 outer pieces out of each cell, as you test. I don't know if there are actually spefications for doing it this way, but you can at least see how the readings compare to each other. It will tell y ou if you have a weak cylinder. It might tell you if you need a valve job. Larry

Re(4): 1650 diesel

IP: 72.47.57.119 Posted on March 10, 2008 at 09:15:51 AM by KIM

I checked compression that way and a reading of 230 lbs on all cylinders it does vary alittle between a couple of them, but not more or less than 10%. What type of compression reading is normal when you test on the energy cell side?

Re(5): 1650 diesel

IP: 4.254.116.38 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 03:15:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that that compression reading is pretty typical for a 1650 like that. If you are concerned that the tractor is a bit hard to start, that is the way they are, especially when they are older. If the tractor runs decently and doesn't use a lot of oil, I'd be inclined to leave it alone. Larry

Re(6): 1650 diesel

IP: 72.47.57.119 Posted on March 11, 2008 at 03:48:35 PM by KIM

HI LARRY, THIS TRACTOR ENGINE HAS BEEN REBUILT, PISTONS, LINERS REPLACED, CRANK REGROUND, MAIN BEARINGS EVERYTHING.. THAT IS WHY I AM ASKING ABOUT THE COMPRESSION ON THE ENERGY CELL SIDE,, WILL IT BE DIFFERENT THAN CHECKING THE COMPRESSION ON THE INJECTOR SIDE?? THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!


Super 55 Transmission Noise

IP: 70.105.75.99 Posted on March 8, 2008 at 11:49:41 AM by Matt

I had my super 55 tore down to replace the hydraulic pump and internal control valve. When I went to put it back together, I couldn't get it back in neutral. So I would tap the starter to check and see if it was in neutral. The last time I did it I heard a small pop. I put the tractor back together, and now I have noise in 2nd and 4th gear. Its a pop pop pop noise. The gears work fine, but I don't want to destroy it driving it like this for those are the gears I use the most. Is there anything I should look for, or can see when im in the transmission? Would would it involve to fix it? It upsets me, because my 3-point is fixed, but now its this. Thanks, Matt

Re(1): Super 55 Transmission Noise

IP: 70.105.75.99 Posted on March 8, 2008 at 12:02:25 PM by Matt

I forgot to add when I put in the clutch the noise dies.

Re(2): Super 55 Transmission Noise

IP: 75.104.191.253 Posted on March 13, 2008 at 07:11:32 PM by Larry Harsin

All I can say is that you have a transmission problem. You are going to have to find out what it is. Larry


1600

IP: 216.254.239.184 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 07:13:04 PM by Brian Landgraf

Was wondering if the 1600 we have is a utility tractor or just a modified row crop? It has a heavier duty wide front that is underneath the radiator with 10.00-16 tires instead of being located in front of the radiator. It also has 18.4-28 rear tires on Oliver rims that I would say are stock. I had it in the New Holland dealer in Alta (a former Oliver dealer)a while back who claims it is a utility. A former Oliver dealer in Laurens claims Oliver made no 1600 utilities. Serial number plate shows Model # 16-5105, Serial #130180-609. Any info would help solve the mystery. Brian

Re(1): 1600

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 10:06:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm sure you have a 1600 Utility. They are rare, but Oliver did make a few. I know of one over near Charles City. If you look at an Oliver Parts Manual for a 1600, it is described in there and it shows the parts for the Utility version. If you want one of those manuals, you can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


New Idea loader

IP: 65.161.86.69 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 03:22:06 PM by Tim

We are looking for a loader to put on our 1600 row crop. We have found a nice New Idea 504 , but the dealer doesn't know if if will fit the 1600 with out major modifactions to the brackets. I have seen photos of one on a 770, but not a new model. Thanks for any info you can provide

Re(1): New Idea loader

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 10:01:34 PM by Larry Harsin

If it will fit a 770, it will go onto a 1600. You will have to do a little changing on the rear axle brackets, but that shouldn't be a big issue. I think the New Idea 504 is a lot like the Oliver 1610 loader. I think the bolt holes on the side rails and on the brackets should line up. You could do a little measuring first. But it won't be hard to modify if necessary. Larry


oil leak

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 01:00:45 PM by Dale Hilliard

I am in the process of restoring my dad's 1947 oliver 70 rowcrop.It always leaked transmission oil from the input shaft of the tranny.Itook the front cover off the shaft,expecting to find a seal,but there wasn't much in there.some kind if a gutter over the shaft. I put an O ring around the shaft hoping to keep oil from migrating out to the end of the shaft.Saw your article in collectors mag & thought i would ask you for any thoughts? thanks Dale Hilliard

Re(1): oil leak

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 09:56:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Those do not have a seal, they never did. There is an oil slinger that sets in there and it throws the oil away from where the shaft goes through the cover. They always did leak a little bit, but it never caused a problem. It is just the way the thing was built. Larry

Re(2): oil leak

IP: 64.12.117.19 Posted on March 6, 2008 at 09:50:16 AM by Dale Hilliard

OK,thanks Larry.I was 4 years old when my dad bought this tractor new.I know this thing like the back of my hand.People have said other tractors haven't leaked.Since i am trying to do a nice job restoring this thing i figure this is the time to try to stop that leak. I have replaced about all the other seals!! Thanks again! Dale


hydraulics 1655 diesel

IP: 130.76.96.16 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 07:04:28 AM by Vernon

Larry, I want to use a Kuhn gmd700 disc mower on my 1655 diesel. The problem is I need to use the 3tp and operate a single action cylinder at the same time. The ops manual isn't much help. Is there a way to do this or must I change the cylinder to a double action? Thanks

Re(1): hydraulics 1655 diesel

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 09:53:23 PM by Larry Harsin

It may work o.k. with one side single acting, if there is enough weight to overcome the 15 lb. backup that the 3 pt. servo valve causes. If, however, it does not work that way, you can either replace with a 2 way cylinder, or plumb in a separate valve on the power beyond port. The way to plumb into the power beyond port is to remove a 1/2" socket head pipe plug directly below the left side of the seat bracket on the front. It will be on the lid of the hydraulic system, pointed forward. When you get the plug removed, you will find a threaded passage approx. an inch and a half beyond where you removed the pipe plug. The threaded passage has to be blocked with a 3/8" socket head pipe plug. You will install a hose where you removed the 1/2" pipe plug and this will direct the oil up to the open center valve that you are going to use for the single acting valve. Now, the return oil for the valve, has to go back in about 6 or 8" behind where you removed the first plug. This plug faces the fender. There is one other thing that you can try. Put a good strong spring along side of your cylinder so that it helps pull the cylinder together. That might do the trick. Larry

Re(2): hydraulics 1655 diesel

IP: 130.76.96.16 Posted on March 6, 2008 at 05:58:27 AM by Vernon

Thanks Larry, I already have the power beyond plumbed for a loader. It never dawned on me to hook up to one of those ports.


starting engine

IP: 71.116.18.14 Posted on March 4, 2008 at 07:11:55 PM by mike

i just rebuilt my oliver 60 and i cant get it to turn over fast enough to get it to start i was wondering if you have and ideas on how to start it.

Re(1): starting engine

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 05:02:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Try using 12 volts with a jumper cable to start it, or put a 12 volt battery in it to start it. Otherwise, pull it to try to start it. Larry

Re(2): starting engine

IP: 67.142.130.41 Posted on March 6, 2008 at 10:31:20 AM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

12 volts will work. My 60 has a 12v battery in it and a 12v regulator/generator. If you're using the original 6 volt battery, you MUST use at least 1 gage battery cables. If you bought replacement cables for 12 volt they are usually in the 6 gage range. If you're using the smaller cables (higher gage number = tinner cable) it will always act like your battery is run down and crank slow. Half the voltage takes twice the amps. Twice the amps needs thicker cables.


rebuild

IP: 66.228.252.233 Posted on March 4, 2008 at 08:43:06 AM by milo

I recently brought home my fatherinlaws super 77 that he started farming with, the tractor is in bad disrepair, for it was left in a pasture for over 15 years. We would like to restore it as a surprise for him. Our home town is featuring Oliver tractor day this fall. What I am looking for is a complete distributer, complete engine overhaul kit including valves and cam bushings, oil filter engine adapter,governor is froze, is the water pump rebuildable, isthe oil pump rebuildable the list goes on . I know the tractor should be scraped but the tires and tin are in good shape, plus it has a lot of sentimental value. Please give all the advice you can.

Re(1): rebuild

IP: 75.104.182.167 Posted on March 5, 2008 at 04:59:43 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an overhaul kit and a water pump from Korves Bros. Oliver. 618-939-6681 I might have a distributor, I'll check. Call me at 712-362-2966. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. is a good source for parts. 800-320-6224. What is the town that is having Oliver Tractor Day? Larry

Re(2): rebuild

IP: 67.142.130.41 Posted on March 6, 2008 at 10:34:24 AM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Another good source is Maibach Tractor in Creston Oh. They had everything on hand to rebuild my 60. Very nice folks to work with.


oliver 60

IP: 71.116.33.214 Posted on March 2, 2008 at 09:01:43 PM by mike

i just rebuilt my oliver 60 and it is very tight, it is hard to turn it with the breaker bar. i was wondering if that is normal. will it free up if i start it?

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on March 3, 2008 at 06:21:51 AM by Larry Harsin

THat is normal. The main thing making it tight is that the 60 has 5 piston rings, causing more dragging. Starting it should help free it up. Larry


60 rear main seal

IP: 72.171.0.142 Posted on March 2, 2008 at 04:14:37 PM by Brian

My 60 rebuild is down to installing the rear main seal. It came as 2 pieces of rope type seal. Is this right? Do you have any suggestions on installing it? Thanks, Brian.

Re(1): 60 rear main seal

IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on March 2, 2008 at 08:09:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is right. I don't have any suggestions. I havn't done one on a 60. There isn't anything in the Service manual about this. You are just going to have to use your own good judgement. You will have to pack it into the retainer and fit it onto the crankshaft hub and bolt it up. It will be very tight. Larry


trans oil

IP: 12.185.81.35 Posted on March 1, 2008 at 12:59:43 PM by Bert McMullen

Ive recently bought a 1965 oliver 770 gas row crop?(tricycle front) .I want to change the trans fluid.but the info available about what oil to use is confuseing .my book says 10-w30 special oil with oliver additive. Thanks Bert

Re(1): trans oil

IP: 75.104.183.0 Posted on March 1, 2008 at 10:13:00 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has the power booster drive, I would use a fluid such as Hy-Tran or it's equivalant. If you don't have the power booster, use 80-90 transmission oil. Larry


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