PTO drag
IP: 206.72.2.157 Posted on March 31, 2010 at 05:47:24 PM by Gene Gaul
Larry, I have an oliver 1750 and the pto keeps turning all the time. I always have to shut the tractor off when hooking up an implement shaft. Of course then the implement runs when it does not have a load. I also have an 1850 with the same problem but not quite as bad. My cousin has a 1950 with the same problem as my 1750. It doesn't matter how hard you pull on the engagement lever the shaft will not stop turning.
Re(1): PTO drag
IP: 75.104.183.109 Posted on April 1, 2010 at 06:07:09 AM by Larry Harsin
That's just the way these tractors are because oil is pumped into the clutches and causes the drag. After the tractor is warmed up, it is not quite as bad. Larry
Oliver Super 55
IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 09:58:08 PM by gary
do you know if anyone has ever installed an oliver 77 or 88 engine into a super 55 tractor. What kind of matierial is the engine frame made out of? cast iron or cast steel?
Re(1): Oliver Super 55
IP: 75.104.188.89 Posted on March 29, 2010 at 08:06:23 AM by Larry Harsin
I have never seen one attempted. Anything is possible. The frame is cast iron. Larry
Super 55 engine
IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on March 30, 2010 at 05:01:55 AM by gary
why do you not recommend using 3 3/4 pistons in a super 55 diesel engine?
Re(1): Super 55 engine
IP: 75.104.183.109 Posted on March 30, 2010 at 06:44:12 AM by Larry Harsin
I had a bad experience with a set of them in a 770 diesel. I don't feel the valves are large enough to handle the air volume that is required. I have had good success using the 3 5/8 sleeves and pistons in that particular engine. Larry
Oliver 1750
IP: 75.253.129.168 Posted on March 29, 2010 at 07:34:50 PM by Devin
my oliver 1750 leaks transmission fluid under the seat what causes that?
Re(1): Oliver 1750
IP: 75.104.183.109 Posted on March 30, 2010 at 06:41:27 AM by Larry Harsin
There might be some O rings that are bad on the connectors on the lid or it could be the gasket. Larry
880 Diesel
IP: 98.28.119.37 Posted on March 27, 2010 at 07:15:02 PM by Ryan
Larry, just bought a 1961 880 diesel wide front nice running tractor had a few questions. The rear axle housing's seem very long they measure 22" and my 88 are only 16" any thoughts. And the throttle is very touchy in the first 3-4 nocthes. The last question is the steering it dosen't turn until you turn the wheel about one full turn and then it works fine untill you get it back straight again. Thank YOU
Re(1): 880 diesel
IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 12:02:36 PM by Larry Harsin
About the rear axle housings you had a choice of length. Some special uses called for longer ones. There are different adjustments you can make on the throttle. It might give them in the Service Manual, I'm not sure, There is something loose in the steering mechanism. You didn't say if it was power steering. But something needs adjusting. Larry
Re(2): 880 Diesel
IP: 98.28.119.37 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 06:54:04 PM by Ryan
Yes it is factory power steering.
Re(3): 880 Diesel
IP: 75.104.188.89 Posted on March 29, 2010 at 08:09:50 AM by Larry Harsin
That is a common problem with the factory power steering. You will have to adjust it up. Remove the power steering unit from the tractor and remove the cast aluminum cover on the end of the p.s. unit and adjust it. Larry
1850 hydraul shift
IP: 206.51.192.50 Posted on March 27, 2010 at 05:52:10 PM by Ryan
I have a 1850 and blew the line that goes to the cooler,three times last year,we have never had problems with this since it was new. The oil looks good but it does have trouble shifting once in awhile. Any suggestions on where to start.
Re(1): 1850 hydraul shift
IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 11:57:36 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd say to put on new hoses and new clamps. They are hard to keep on. I haven't run across this before. Larry
Re(2): 1850 hydraul shift
IP: 206.51.192.50 Posted on March 29, 2010 at 06:37:28 AM by ryan
I actually replaced them but I ruptured them
Re(3): 1850 hydraul shift
IP: 4.248.220.218 Posted on March 29, 2010 at 10:18:02 AM by Larry from MD
Those lines are not supposed to have any real pressure in them, so my guess would be there is some kind of restriction or blockage makeing more pressure in the line.
1655 flywheel timing
IP: 144.29.129.19 Posted on March 25, 2010 at 02:32:40 PM by Cleon Couey
Larry, I have the head removed and can verify exactly where TDC #1 piston is. How far up the flywheel would 4 degrees BTDC be?
Re(1): 1655 flywheel timing
IP: 75.104.183.27 Posted on March 26, 2010 at 06:20:56 AM by Larry Harsin
About 1/4 inch. Larry
1850 Trans Leak When Cold
IP: 207.177.14.243 Posted on March 22, 2010 at 06:31:02 AM by Chris
Larry I just had my 1850 overhauled and asked that the seal that is leaking transmission fluid when it is cold outside be replaced - I heard this is a common issue with 1850's? - It was replaced but still leaks when the temp outside is below 30 until the tractor warms up. Any suggestions?
Re(1): 1850 Trans Leak When Cold
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:38:34 AM by Larry Harsin
You might check the breather on top of the hydra-power. Also, you may be running your oil a bit high in that unit. Larry
70 head
IP: 75.105.11.207 Posted on March 22, 2010 at 05:06:35 AM by rockfish
i am replacing the head gasket on my 70 and i found 2 broken valve springs. i have parts tractors, are springs from a 60 or a 88 the same? i know this a low compresson motor,how much is safe to mill off the head? thanks.
Re(1): 70 head
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:35:36 AM by Larry Harsin
No, they are not the same. You'll have to talk to a machinist about the head. If you can't find valve springs locally, I have them. 712-362-2966. Larry
Oliver super 88 diesel
IP: 99.194.23.25 Posted on March 21, 2010 at 06:51:02 PM by Lucas cates
Larry, What are the energy cells in a oliver diesels for?
Re(1): Oliver super 88 diesel
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:33:49 AM by Larry Harsin
The injectors shoot fuel over into those energy cells. Then, the fuel burns out gradually. Whereas, on a direct injected engine, the injector puts the fuel in on top of the piston. Larry
1550 3 pt hitch
IP: 96.228.103.9 Posted on March 20, 2010 at 02:47:51 PM by robert
Hi again larry. We a 1550 with 2 problems. One the 3 pt hitch does not go up or down. The power steering works and the bucket works. We just did an oil/filter change and it still isnt working. Any tips... We do have a leak from the power steering. It appears to drip from the bottom pin. What could that be a bad seal or o ring. Do i need to pull the bulk head and everything to get it off? Thanks
Re(1): 1550 3 pt hitch
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:32:00 AM by Larry Harsin
In the 3 pt hitch, there is a fine threaded 1/2" bolt with a 3/4" head on it, near your right foot when you are sitting on the tractor. This should be screwed in to make the hitch work. Check your Operator's Manual. Your power steering could be O rings or seals or both. Larry
880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on March 19, 2010 at 09:33:06 PM by Corky Marshall
My 880 has developed a leak in the PS system. I pulled the grill and radiator. It does not appear to be the hoses. I had my mechanic come by and take a look and he thinks there is one or more seals that are shot. The PS system runs off the generator. I don't have a real factory shop manual. It looks like I have to drop the row crop front end to get the steering gear off. Got some suggestions as to the easiest way to go about this and how many seals might need to be replaced? I will order a shop manual.
Re(1): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 66.252.85.236 Posted on March 20, 2010 at 01:01:46 PM by Austin White
I replaced the seals in the steering unit on my 880. But i didn't pull the front end off. On the top of your steering unit there ought to be a round cap. pop that off and there will be a bolt inside. you want to turn it and it will push your steering unit off of the shaft.
Re(2): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on March 22, 2010 at 05:38:56 PM by Corky Marshall
I do have that cap off and the nut exposed. The cap that's on there is a rubber seal. Is that what you have or is your's a metal cap.
Re(3): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 166.216.130.65 Posted on March 23, 2010 at 08:07:27 AM by austin white
my original one was rubber. but the rebuild kit i bought had a plastic one.
Re(4): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on March 23, 2010 at 09:22:22 AM by Corky Marshall
Where did you get the rebuild kit??
Re(5): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:28:35 AM by Larry Harsin
I wasn't aware that a rebuild kit was available. I'd be interested in knowing where it came from also. Larry
Re(6): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 66.252.85.236 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 07:10:01 PM by Austin White
I believe i got my rebuild kit from Maibach tractor in ohio. their number is 1-800-808-9934
Re(7): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on March 31, 2010 at 09:55:20 PM by Corky Marshall
I called Maibach today and they said they have a seal kit for the Gemmer unit. They said there has to be some machining done. I'll let you know how it works out.
Re(8): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 75.104.169.177 Posted on April 5, 2010 at 05:48:11 AM by Larry Harsin
After reading that Austin had gotten a kit from Maibach's, we went to the National Oliver Show in IN. I talked to the guys from Maibach's and this is all true. A fellow there has developed a way of reworking and resealing them. I'm glad they have developed this. Larry
Re(9): 880 Power Steering Leak
IP: 209.112.224.42 Posted on April 5, 2010 at 09:56:27 PM by Corky Marshall
Got the kit in the mail today and going to see my mechanic tomorrow. I'll still let you know how it works out.
Super 88 diesel
IP: 99.194.23.25 Posted on March 19, 2010 at 07:48:15 PM by Lucas Cates
Larry,What is displacement for the oliver super 88 diesel
Re(1): Super 88 diesel
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:24:57 AM by Larry Harsin
265 cu. in. Larry
1955 shifting
IP: 66.252.85.236 Posted on March 19, 2010 at 05:41:18 PM by Austin White
I just bought an oliver 1955 diesel with the hydraul shift. I just got it running last week and everything works great except 4th and 6th gear. When i put it into either of these gears and let out of the clutch the engine rpm's slow for a split second and then recover but the tractor doesn't move anywhere. All of the other gears work fine in Over, Direct, and under. the only thing i know about the prior history of the tractor is that it sat for a year before i got it because to threw a rod through the block. Thanks.
Re(1): 1955 shifting
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:22:45 AM by Larry Harsin
You have a problem in the transmission. You are going to have to take the cover off and look in there and see what the problem is. There are several possibilities like a broken shift rail or a loose fork, etc. Larry
Re(2): 1955 shifting
IP: 66.252.85.236 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 07:15:11 PM by Austin White
I pulled the top cover off today, and everything appears to be in order. When i use a crowbar to try and put the tractor into 4th or 6th the rail won't slide all the way in and snap into place like all the other gears do. So it just acts to me like its not going into gear all the way. I jacked up one of the rear wheels to turn and it acts like it tries to engage but it can't.
880 pto
IP: 70.51.59.24 Posted on March 18, 2010 at 07:17:14 PM by Don
Will the pto shaft from a 60 fit an 880. Thanks. Don.
Re(1): 880 pto
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:20:17 AM by Larry Harsin
No. It is totally different. Larry
Oliver Superior Seed Drill
IP: 66.220.142.152 Posted on March 18, 2010 at 05:18:20 PM by Erica Menconi
Do you have any information where I can get an operator's manual for an Oliver Superior Seed Drill?
Re(1): Oliver Superior Seed Drill
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:19:08 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099 Larry
1655 Steering
IP: 68.65.106.4 Posted on March 16, 2010 at 09:40:21 PM by Bob Spyker
I have a 1655D that had an oil leak where the steering shaft goes into the Hydro motor. I replaced the seal and put everything back together and it would only turn to the left. I thought maybe there was some air trapped in the lines so I loosened them to bleed out the air, tightened them back up, and now it won't turn either way. What did I do wrong?
Re(1): 1655 Steering
IP: 75.104.188.131 Posted on March 17, 2010 at 06:08:08 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know what to say. Keep looking at it. Larry
Re(2): 1655 Steering
IP: 4.248.217.192 Posted on March 18, 2010 at 04:37:51 PM by larry from md.
I would jack up the front end and with the engine NOT running see if you can steer. If you can then its a bad steering valve. This is assuming you have the old saginaw valve.
model 1955 diesel updates
IP: 97.73.64.160 Posted on March 16, 2010 at 08:34:26 PM by jackie
How do I know if my 1955 tractor has had the wrist pin and rod bearing updates?
Re(1): model 1955 diesel updates
IP: 4.248.220.81 Posted on March 17, 2010 at 05:23:25 PM by Larry from MD
You don't unless you do a complete disassembly.You can take a small mirror on a rod with a light and look through the oil check and fill hole. You might be able to see the 12 point rod bolts And make a guess about the rest.
Re(2): model 1955 diesel updates
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:40:58 AM by Larry Harsin
Look through the dipstick hole and look for the 12 point headed rod bolts. That will be a clue. Sorry to be slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Meeting. Larry
oliver 550 pushrod
IP: 72.24.123.234 Posted on March 16, 2010 at 05:11:44 PM by Art
I had 3 bent pushrods in my 67 oliver 550. Ordered replacements and the bottom is a larger diameter then the ones I pulled out. I ordered used ones and there is indication on the paper work that they are out of a 770. Will they still work in the 550 or did I recieve the wrong part? The length is the same.
Re(1): oliver 550 pushrod
IP: 75.105.45.151 Posted on March 24, 2010 at 06:17:24 AM by Larry Harsin
I think the ones you received will work if the length is about the same. Also, I think the one out of the 770 will work. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Meeting. Larry
Super 88 Diesel
IP: 99.194.23.25 Posted on March 14, 2010 at 09:18:42 PM by L.cates
I have a 1956 oliver super 88 diesel. I carted the tractor home in boxes. Except the frame. But I compleatley restored it. The question I had is the tractor blows coolant out the of the radiator cap. Now I put a new o-ring in it but it still does it any suggestions
Re(1): S88 Diesel
IP: 75.104.182.166 Posted on March 15, 2010 at 05:35:29 AM by Larry Harsin
You could easily have a cracked cylinder sleeve or a blown head gasket. It could also be a cracked cylinder head. Larry
Re(2): S88 Diesel
IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on March 16, 2010 at 05:49:52 AM by djm75
did you measure the sleeve protrusion in 3 places with them clamped down? Were they all in spec and within tolerence between each other? You are getting compression in the coolant that wouldn't be the o-rings that would leak coolant into the oil pan.
550 pto
IP: 206.80.247.195 Posted on March 13, 2010 at 06:35:06 PM by rick
Hi Larry , my 1963 550 oliver pto does not snap in or hold itself engaged , does not slip if you hold it engaged with moderate hand pressure .(had it on a dyno at the time ) Have set the pto clutch according to my manual so it just barely drags and backed the adjustment off to try it a bit different , lever still feels the same , any ideas ? Thanks
Re(1): 550 pto
IP: 4.248.220.81 Posted on March 14, 2010 at 07:41:07 AM by Larry from MD
Ajusted that way it will be WAY TOO LOOSE. Tighten it up untill it snaps over center so it will hold. It will drag some when disengaged.
Re(2): 550 pto
IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on March 14, 2010 at 12:18:16 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can't adjust it to get that snap over center, you will have to split the tractor and see what is the problem. Larry
Oliver 2255 hydraulic problem
IP: 69.205.86.167 Posted on March 13, 2010 at 01:27:00 PM by Cas
I changed the pump and filter on my Oliver 2255. I tried everything in the Hydraulic Manual by White and can not seem to get any pressure. No hydraulic oil in the filter when I take it off.
Re(1): Oliver 2255 hydraulic problem
IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on March 14, 2010 at 12:15:18 PM by Larry Harsin
After you put the filter on, you have to open the bleeder on top of the filter, so that the air can get out and the oil can get in. It tells you this in your Operators' Manual. If you don't have a manual, get one from the Museum in Charles City IA, 641-228-1099. Larry
1800C steering
IP: 4.255.42.77 Posted on March 12, 2010 at 06:50:30 AM by Larry West
Finally put the 1800 to work and the steering motor (hydra motor) is going south on me. Its leaking pretty good and while it still turns left, it won't ever stop. The steering wheel just keeps on turning left even after the front wheels reach full travel. Any suggestions on rebuilding or replacing the hydra motor. Looks like it will be a bear to get out, so would like to just replace it. The tractor is a 1964 1800C and is a 4 wheel drive model. Thanks, Larry
Re(1): 1800C steering
IP: 75.104.182.212 Posted on March 12, 2010 at 09:02:11 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will know what parts you need to replace the hydra motor. Larry
Oliver 88 overhaul
IP: 71.8.246.186 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 08:01:52 PM by Greg
I am overhauling a 88 Diesel and want to know if there is any test I can do on oil pump to make sure it is working properly. Pump is currently out of the engine. Secondly, I am assembling engine with gasket kit. What do you recommend using on the gaskets to make sure they don't leak after running engine.
Re(1): Oliver 88 overhaul
IP: 75.104.182.212 Posted on March 12, 2010 at 05:54:34 AM by Larry Harsin
On the oil pump, I just run it by hand when I am washing it in the parts cleaner, These pumps are very reliable and hours of operation doesn't seem to affect their use. However, I do inspect the pick-up screen quite closely, looking for build up of material against the screen and the condition of the screen itself. Larry
880 fluids
IP: 131.137.195.83 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 09:31:40 AM by Don
Hi Larry. I plan to change all the lubricants in my 880 diesel. It has spur gear trans and power booster. What oil do you suggest for engine, trans etc.
Re(1): 880 fluids
IP: 75.104.182.143 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 12:12:45 PM by Larry Harsin
10w30 or 15w40 for the engine. For the transmission, use something like Hy-Tran with that power booster in there. Larry Re(2): 880 fluids
Larry, I just redid my 880 transmission and put 10w-30 in there like the book says, Was that wrong? ( I have a power booster as well, and helical transmission) I want to make sure I have the right oil in there!
Re(3): 880 fluids
IP: 75.104.182.212 Posted on March 12, 2010 at 05:50:05 AM by Larry Harsin
I wouldn't say it is wrong, but (in the book) with that 10w30 it told you to use an additive that is no longer available. That is why I use Hy-Tran or it's equivalent. Larry
2-70 3 speed
IP: 71.7.104.175 Posted on March 10, 2010 at 08:35:34 PM by wayne
I bought a 2-70 a couple years ago, recently it has started to feel like it is slipping in under drive. the oil level has been good but when I changed the oil filter on the 3 speed it looked like hydraulic oil rather than dextron. Could this be the problem?
Re(1): 2-70 3 speed
IP: 75.104.182.143 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 05:49:52 AM by Larry Harsin
I would put ATF back in it and try it, but you may have to replace the sprag clutch. I would take it to my AGCO dealer to get this done. Larry
1650 oliver question
IP: 70.171.161.159 Posted on March 10, 2010 at 05:53:21 PM by craig reinke
I have a 65 vintage propane tractor that I converted years ago, but have not been able to get it to run properly. After your response about the chance of it being electrical I looked at the pictures in the manual and noticed the distributor had a vacuum advance. I purchased a new distributor from the dealer in North Bend. The one I got was a Mallory, Model VH, part #YL666A. It has no place for an advance on it, could it be possible that I got the one for the propane set up? Also if you think that this could be the problem, Does someone make a more advanced ignition system for this engine? Thank you for your help!
Re(1): 1650 oliver question
IP: 75.104.182.143 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 05:47:32 AM by Larry Harsin
You can't buy the vacuum advance distributors any more. You'll have to use the Mallory. Larry
Re(2): 1650 oliver question
IP: 4.248.219.30 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 10:22:18 AM by Larry from MD
The mallory DOES have the advance mechanicly built into it.
Re(3): 1650 oliver question
IP: 70.171.161.159 Posted on March 11, 2010 at 08:02:28 PM by craig reinke
Thank you Larry, I guess that rules out the electrical as a problem. back to a carb issue.
Re(4): 1650 oliver question
IP: 67.22.193.242 Posted on March 23, 2010 at 08:44:56 PM by Lyle
Are you trying to run this tractor on propane? then you might try adjusting the point gap tighter than the factory specs, im thinking around .16 we had a 1600 propane and the gap was very fusy and if you had that old holley dist. on there i can believe it wouldnt run right
77 Governor
IP: 75.205.255.206 Posted on March 9, 2010 at 07:21:07 PM by John McNeely
When I was taking apart my oil leaky 77 gas for an overhaul I notice the 5/8 expansion plug in front of the govenor housing was missing. The engine had the old steel insert with the replacable brg and thrust washer. I removed and replaced with new bronze insert and removed thrust washer as par instructions. When I went to install govenor housing I put in on gave it a tap to get it on the dowel pins and POP out come expansion plug Any ideas?
Re(1): 77 Governor
IP: 75.104.182.143 Posted on March 9, 2010 at 09:17:46 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm questioning whether you have the governor installed properly. It must not have been far enough back in the engine - otherwise it wouldn't have popped that plug out. You have to get that shaft in there correctly or it will keep popping the plugs out. Larry
Stuck Clutch White 2-85
IP: 68.217.186.150 Posted on March 9, 2010 at 00:18:34 AM by Andy
Well its not an Oliver but its close Got a 2-85 White with over under trans thats been sitting since last september It will start in neutral but when you go to put it in gear it grinds and it will start in gear but it takes off When it cranks over it starts to move with the clutch push down I ajusted it for 2 hour an it done the same thing When I took the clutch inspection cover off, it had water on it so I figure its a froze clutch It shifted fine the last time I drove it HELP!!!!
Re(1): Stuck Clutch White 2-85
IP: 75.104.182.143 Posted on March 9, 2010 at 06:02:27 AM by Larry Harsin
Your suspicions are correct. It is frozen. The weather is starting to warm up, so it should thaw out pretty soon. It will probably work then. If you could get it into a heated shop, the thawing would be quicker, of course. Larry
Oliver model 355-51016
IP: 64.126.34.78 Posted on March 8, 2010 at 02:36:48 AM by Jeff Graham
Hello, I am hoping you can steer me to information for an Oliver model 355-51016 serial # 201694506. Can you tell me the year of manufacture and where I can find service manuals and parts. This is a working farm tractor and it has developed a rod knock. I need to repair it soon as it is used daily. Thanks for any help you can give.
Re(1): Oliver model 355-51016
IP: 75.104.188.33 Posted on March 8, 2010 at 08:18:40 AM by Larry Harsin
What Oliver do you have??? Is it a 550? Is it a Utility Style tractor? Just giving us the serial number doesn't help. Can you email a picture to us? harsinoliver@ilechsi.com Larry
Re(2): Oliver model 355-51016
IP: 209.50.30.228 Posted on March 13, 2010 at 11:57:16 PM by BAStar
Your tractor is a 1550, built in 1968
Re(3): Oliver model 355-51016
IP: 75.104.182.166 Posted on March 15, 2010 at 05:40:04 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get Operator's Manual, Parts Manual and Service Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. You may have a worn rod bearing that's causing the knock. Larry
88
IP: 69.66.176.140 Posted on March 7, 2010 at 06:17:11 PM by Kenny Crawford
Larry, I'm looking at an "88" with a serial # 0164-1411002. What year is it and also was the original grill on this yellow or white ? Thanks for your time and information.
Re(1): 88
IP: 75.104.188.33 Posted on March 8, 2010 at 08:14:27 AM by Larry Harsin The original grill was yellow. Going with a serial number 1411002 the tractor was built in 1952. Larry
88 timing
IP: 72.78.155.41 Posted on March 7, 2010 at 04:14:47 PM by Scott Shuman
Hi, I just got a '49 88 gas. Having trouble getting it to run. Is the firing order 153624 from front to back? Just got some fire out the carb? Thanks
Re(1): 88 timing
IP: 75.104.188.33 Posted on March 8, 2010 at 08:12:04 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, that is the order. If you got fire, you may have had an intake valve sticking open for a bit. Larry
Oliver oil
IP: 98.156.52.170 Posted on March 7, 2010 at 03:32:15 PM by Scott belser
Hello I have an Oliver 88 standard and cannot find my manual I cannot remember what kind of oil and filter to use it need services this spring any Idea what is best for the engine? thank you Scott
Re(1): Oliver oil
IP: 75.104.188.33 Posted on March 8, 2010 at 08:10:23 AM by Larry Harsin
I like to use 10w30 engine oil in that engine. If it uses some oil, you could go to 15-40 and it would be fine. I use 100126ASA oil filter on the gas. The diesel uses 100125ASA oil filter. Larry
Lull 7B forklift
IP: 98.158.40.184 Posted on March 6, 2010 at 10:28:23 AM by Mike Sampson
I recently purchased an old Lull 7B highlift forklift built on an Oliver tractor. Can you tell me anything about it? Lull serial #416 The only plate I can find on the tractor is on the transmission and it says: The Oliver Corporation Charles city, Iowa...Specification Number:37-7095...Serial number:112 946-799 any help would be greatly appreciated!
Re(1): Lull 7B forklift
IP: 75.104.183.181 Posted on March 6, 2010 at 09:31:51 PM by Larry Harsin
I think the tractor is probably a 770 built in 1961. There was one of those units here in our neighborhood for years and it was a 770. Lull was a company in St. Paul MN. I have a tractor on the website that has a Lull Front end loader on it. Larry
Re(2): Lull 7B forklift
IP: 98.158.40.184 Posted on March 7, 2010 at 02:07:54 PM by Mike Sampson
Thanks for your help Larry, I have looked through your ask the oliver mechanic archives and they have been very helpful. God Bless!
hydraulics, 1955 tractor
IP: 70.59.153.196 Posted on March 5, 2010 at 09:49:39 PM by e firestone
larry, i have that 1974, model 1955 tractor i keep asking you about... the next to do thing are the dual remote levers... when i pulled it out of the weeds both levers would not return to center at the end of remote cylinder travel.. when plowing last fall the one remote lost the lock at both ends of travel... now i have to hold it until things get to where i need them to be... it still works in a pinch..so i was wondering what parts to order before i take it apart, so i can use it if i need to while waiting on parts, probably from tom at obriens....and i will probably be using it... things are way early this year and drying out fast.. so far anyway....on the west side of the cascades in western washington state....thanks for your help..
Re(1): hydraulics, 1955 tractor
IP: 75.104.169.35 Posted on March 6, 2010 at 06:28:43 AM by Larry Harsin
I would call Tom and rely on his expertise about this. 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(2): hydraulics, 1955 tractor
IP: 4.248.221.199 Posted on March 6, 2010 at 10:34:35 AM by Larry from MD
Those detents release when a high pressure is reached so if what you are lifting raises the pressure that high they wont hold. You may not need any parts at all, there are a number of ajustments that can be done on the valves. You really need a book to show how to do them. Sometimes guys will turn of one set of detents off so they have one set to make small movements easy. Sometimes they just don't like them.
1655 Won't Start Cold
IP: 216.51.197.87 Posted on March 4, 2010 at 08:19:57 PM by Scott W.
My 1655 gas tractor has not been starting when cold. All winter I've had to plug it in for a long time to get it to start. Today it was in the 30's, it was not plugged in and it would not start. It cranks well but no sputter or pop. Any ideas?
Re(1): 1655 Won't Start Cold
IP: 75.104.169.35 Posted on March 6, 2010 at 06:26:41 AM by Larry Harsin
Check for weak spark first and then go from there. If the spark is o.k., then check for weak vacuum. If the vacuum is weak, it won't pull the fuel up into the engine. To do this, take the air cleaner hose off and put your hand over the carb while you are cranking the engine and see if it sucks in your hand. Check the choke to see if it is working and closing properly. Larry
Hydraulic fluid
IP: 216.82.168.219 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 08:26:26 AM by 65oliver1650
Which hydraulic fluid should I be using in a 1650?? ISO 32, 46,100?? Was curious, do the numbers stand for weights of the fluid? Thanks
Re(1): Hydraulic fluid
IP: 75.104.183.138 Posted on March 4, 2010 at 05:52:21 AM by Larry Harsin
I use the 46, the medium one. I'm not sure what the numbers stand for. Larry
1650 external loader valve
IP: 12.24.196.117 Posted on March 2, 2010 at 01:44:07 PM by Matt
Larry, Can you tell me where to attach the pressure and return hoses on my 1650 for an external loader valve? I have a shop manual for a 1600 which clearly shows how it's done but the ports are not the same on my 1650. Also does the 3/8" pipe plug go in the same 1/2" port on my 1650 that my shop manual shows for the 1600?
Re(1): 1650 external loader valve
IP: 75.104.182.196 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 06:34:58 AM by Larry Harsin
The passage on the 1650 is on the left front corner of the cover that the seat bolts to. You will find a 1/2" pipe plug at this point. After removing the plug, you will find a threaded passage which will accept a 3/8" socket head pipe plug. Further in, you will find a 1/2" pipe plug that points toward the fender. This is where the oil from the valve comes back to the tractor.Larry
Re(2): 1650 external loader valve
IP: 12.24.196.117 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 05:44:14 PM by Matt
I hooked up the pressure hose just as you said. I damaged the 1/2" pipe plug that points toward the fender for the return oil trying to get it out. So I hooked up the return oil hose to where the 3/4" pipe plug is just below the power steering flow divider. The loader works fine now, but do you see any problems with bringing the return oil back through the 3/4" port? Also after I hooked up the loader hydraulics the 3 point arms won't lift anymore. Any idea why?
Re(3): 1650 external loader valve
IP: 75.104.183.138 Posted on March 4, 2010 at 05:50:43 AM by Larry Harsin
That 1/2" plug you ruined has to come out. Don't use the 3/4" pipe plug. That is why your 3 pt. isn't working. Larry
1650
IP: 66.57.25.188 Posted on March 2, 2010 at 12:58:36 PM by sam reid
ive got a 1965 oliver 1650 d that i bought 3yr ago. it always had noisy hydraulics but they worked great. now they dont. when cold she has 2100psi and picks up a load on the hitch great. when hot 2200psi and is very sluggish picking up even when turning wide open. tractor shows 2731 hrs. any thoghts would be appreciated
Re(1): 1650
IP: 75.104.182.196 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 06:28:40 AM by Larry Harsin
It isn't typical to have more psi when hot than when cold. Are you sure this info is correct? Check your pressure readings again. With that kind of pressure, it should work normally. You still have the pressure when it's hot, so it should work the same. I need more info. Call me and we'll talk. 712-362-2966 Larry
Re(2): 1650
IP: 4.248.221.214 Posted on March 3, 2010 at 11:06:02 AM by Larry from MD
I would look at the powersteering. If too much oil is going to the steering not much is left for the other stuff. The flow divider and steering will make noise if too much oil is going there.
1650 indirect inj. to direct
IP: 76.182.139.235 Posted on March 1, 2010 at 08:12:26 PM by Doug H
Hello Larry, Although I'm a devoted IH man, I bought a 1650 today with a cracked head (already off) it is the lonova type with the large Bosch injectors. Was wondering what I would have to change to put a newer style direct inj head on since I need a head anyway. Thank you!
Re(1): 1650 indirect inj. to direct
IP: 75.104.161.61 Posted on March 2, 2010 at 06:05:01 AM by Larry Harsin
I've never encountered anyone trying to do that. I think you can't do that. I think you would be better off just to get a different engine. The cam is different and the valve arrangement is different. I haven't researched it, but I don't think it can be done. Larry
Re(2): 1650 indirect inj. to direct
IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on March 2, 2010 at 06:25:43 AM by djm75
How bad are the cracks and where are they? That is common to have hairline cracks and wont hurt anything I would surprised if you could find one that didn't have any.
Re(3): 1650 indirect inj. to direct
IP: 4.252.91.3 Posted on March 28, 2010 at 08:17:47 PM by ohio dick
it can be done i have done it you need the rocker assembly, push tubes, head, head bolts, both manifolds,fuel lines, injectors, cam, and direct injection pistons,but use head gasket for indirect injection head.
1650 oliver hydraulics
IP: 96.236.11.76 Posted on March 1, 2010 at 05:31:52 PM by robert lapage
Larry a few weeks back I was looking for advise on an oliver 1650 where the 3 pt hitch wasnt working. You said to take the plug out and then the inner plug. Well my mechanic as well as myself say thank you very much. There was a bucket on it and you solved the problem from miles away. Even my uncle who has owned over 300 olivers was stumped and thought it maybe something cracked in the housing.. Thank you again!!!
Re(1): 1650 oliver hydraulics
IP: 75.104.161.61 Posted on March 2, 2010 at 06:01:57 AM by Larry Harsin
You're welcome! Glad I could help! Larry