"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2011 Archives


Valve lash and manifold

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 11:00:01 AM by dennis o'connor

Larry and group, Just pulled the manifolds off a 1600 because of leaks... The 4 mounting bolts joining the intake and exhaust are corroded heavily and separating them will require grinding/drilling/re-tap etc.. Two of the exhaust flanges are rounded a bit from the leaking... Have you heard of putting the two manifolds as a unit on a surface grinder to refresh the exhaust faces? If not, who do you buy your exhaust manifolds from? What are the numbers for the int/exh valve lash?

Re(1): Valve lash and manifold

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 11:39:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I have repaired problems like this. Take the 2 manifolds to your machine shop and have them resurfaced. Intake and exhaust manifolds are available from Valu-Bilt. 888-828-3276. Valves are set at 15 and 24. Larry


1800 Transmission

IP: 66.71.202.145 Posted on March 29, 2011 at 11:00:58 AM by Matt

I have an 1962 Oliver 1800B and it seems to jump out of gear sometimes (5th, 6th and R2). What could be causing this?

Re(1): 1800 Transmission

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 11:35:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Your problem could be the range cluster on the top shaft. There is a nylon bushing in the input low range gear. I think you will find this is where your problem is. If you need parts for this, call me. 712-362-2966. I think I have some of those parts. Larry


880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 209.130.192.30 Posted on March 29, 2011 at 07:14:31 AM by Leon

I purchased an 880 that had been sitting outside for the past 3+years. Previous owned could not get it started so left it sit. Got it home, checked all the fluids, found the problem was the distributor points contact was missing one of the contacts. Put is a set of points, cleanded the carb and it started right up and runs great. It had a loader on it and it has a 3 point. I cycled the 3 point and it raised and also the loader raised about 6" and stopped. The hydraulics no longer work. I assumed it was low on fluid so I filled it and started it up again. The hydraulics still didn't work. Checked the fluid and it was empty. I assumed since it sat outside, some water must have gotten in to the system and possibly cracked the pump or reservior so I pulled the pump and found no cracks but the front lip seal on the pump drive is slightly blown out. I have not yet split the pump but will be doing that tonight. I wanted to know what may have caused this seal to blow out? What do I need to look for when splitting the pump. I have an IT manaul but it is not real thourough on the pump and wanted to see if someone had some input. I dont want to simply replace the seals and have the same problem. I appreciate any feedback on this issue.

Re(1): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 11:32:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Go ahead and take the pump apart. The seal blown out of the pump is typical of a pump that has had water in it, so I feel that you will see the problem as soon as you take the pump apart. It will probably have a broken center plate as well as other problems. If you need parts or a pump, let me know, as I have the parts. We may have already talked. Larry


super 55 running bad

IP: 66.242.210.103 Posted on March 28, 2011 at 09:35:25 PM by walter

I bought a oliver super 55 from my neighbor it ran bad driving it home like it was running on 3 cyclinders . had it tuned up ,the dealer gave it a complete overhaul , it would run better on half choke , years later a good mechanic found the problem & told me it was sucking air between the manifold & the head now my super 55 finally runs like a new tractor. Just thought I would run this by the other oliver owners.

Re(1): super 55 running bad

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 05:29:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for sharing your experience. That is good info. Larry


Engine and transmission Oil on a 1950 Oliver standard 77 non diesel

IP: 75.121.146.248 Posted on March 28, 2011 at 06:02:00 PM by Avery H.

I am unable to find what weight of oil is recomended in a 1950 Oliver 77 KD

Re(1): Engine and transmission Oil on a 1950 Oliver standard 77 non diesel

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 05:27:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use 10w30 in that engine, if it is in good condition. If it isn't in great condition, 15w40 might work a bit better. Transmission - use sae90 gear lube. Larry


Looking for dual hubs for my 1850.

IP: 75.106.96.59 Posted on March 27, 2011 at 09:59:30 PM by Jeff H.

Hello again Larry, this may seem like a dumb question but I'm trying to find some dual hubs for my 1850, and can't seem to find them anywhere. Are these rare or something? I have the 9 bolt pressed steel rims, and would like to get hub duals instead of the clamp on type. Do you have any idea where I might be able to get a set? I have looked on ebay, and other sites on the web, but again I can't find them anywhere which seems odd to me. Someone told me they are called "planter box hubs", is this correct or just someones idea of a joke? Any help,input,or ideas would be very greatly appreciated! Thanks again for all the time and assistance you give to all of us here.

Re(1): Looking for dual hubs for my 1850.

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 05:25:22 PM by Larry Harsin

They were offered as an option on the 1850's. I don't think I have any, but I will check. They really aren't rare. I haven't heard them called planter box hubs, but could be in some locality, I suppose. Larry

Re(1): Looking for dual hubs for my 1850.

IP: 75.104.169.63 Posted on April 1, 2011 at 05:30:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any. I'm going to an auction in a couple of weeks. I'll see if I can find some. Larry


Carb.

IP: 71.208.11.245 Posted on March 27, 2011 at 07:56:14 PM by Gerry Murphy

I have a peculiar problem. This winter I overhauled my 1600 and did a lot of restoration. Had the gas tank off and the carb off for a long time so there are some sediments but I put in a new screen and its works fine. All back together and ready for work now. Here is the problem. the tractor runs fine as long as large power isn't demanded for more than a minute or so. Acts like (under load) that at some point it is gas starved--it will sputter and die. Wait a minute and your good to go again. Sometimes, choking helps,which is strange. Have checked the input to the carb., fuel seems to run freely new screens and cleaned the sediment bowl. the point is is WILL run hard for a short time then is starved for fuel. Can't find a problem with the float. Blew out the inlet, Inlet valve works. I've been fighting this for several days trying to do work. Is there some obscure problem in the carb? worked fine before tear down.

Re(1): Carb.

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 05:21:48 PM by Larry Harsin

There is probably something in the fuel strainer that is restricting the fuel flow when you need it. I find spiders, webs and occasionally a lady bug in there. That fuel hose hangs there and curious insects and spiders crawl into it and when we fill our tractors, the webs and everything go right into the fuel tank, too. Larry


77 PTO

IP: 204.12.187.196 Posted on March 27, 2011 at 05:24:17 PM by Eric-IA

The PTO was popping out of gear. I took the cover off and saw that one of the pins on the actuating arms fell out so only 2 of the 3 were applying pressure. I also noticed a fair amount of play in the linkage on the arms of the 2 still together. Questions are- How much play is too much? Should I look for a better back plate assy? Can I use a bolt in place of the pin? Do you think I would still need to adjust the shims

Re(1): 77 PTO

IP: 75.104.182.185 Posted on March 30, 2011 at 05:18:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd put a new special hardened pin in there. It won't work with just any old pin. If it has a distinct snap when it engages, that is fine. If it doesn't, you can pull out 2 or 3 shims or whatever. Larry


grinding noise when going down hill

IP: 66.242.210.103 Posted on March 27, 2011 at 02:48:23 PM by walter

I have a oliver 1650 diesel that makes a grinding noise when going down hill. what causes this & Is this a cheep ,easy to fix job for a do it yourselfer?

Re(1): grinding noise when going down hill

IP: 184.0.11.2 Posted on March 28, 2011 at 00:01:38 AM by J.Mash

One of our 550's did that last year, and it turned out to be one of the bearings on the ring gear carrier. These problems can be hard to locate.Jacking up the rear and turning the wheels helped us to isolate the problem

Re(2): grinding noise when going down hill

IP: 75.104.168.168 Posted on March 29, 2011 at 06:07:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You should have someone who is qualified check it out. It could be several things including something in the transmission. Larry


What size bolt goes in the 540/1000 pto shifter?

IP: 75.105.128.37 Posted on March 25, 2011 at 08:48:32 PM by Jeff H.

Hello Larry, I have one other question I'm hoping you can answer for me. On my 1850 Perkins Oliver, I have the 540/1000 pto set up, but when I got the tractor the "Lock" bolt was missing that goes up into the housing, I think it's to keep it from shifting out of range,anyway do you happen to know what size,threads,grade, etc. of nut and bolt this takes? I can't find that information in my manual, it just says there is supposed to be a "Lock" bolt there. Thanks as always for your time and consideration. Jeff

Re(1): What size bolt goes in the 540/1000 pto shifter?

IP: 75.105.128.37 Posted on March 25, 2011 at 09:14:42 PM by Jeff H.

Larry, I was just re-reading this and don't know if I'm being very specific, so I thought I would try to explain in better detail. In my manual it says there should be a "lock screw" and "lock nut" that goes into the housing on the rear of the tractor, and it is supposed to go into the "shift rail" that you use to switch from 540 to 1000 pto. It just doesn't tell me what length,size(diameter),type of threads(fine or course),or grade, that the screw and nut are supposed to be. Since mine was always missing since I bought the tractor I don't know what to get. IF you have one that you would be willing to sell I would sure be interested! Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again! Jeff

Re(2): What size bolt goes in the 540/1000 pto shifter?

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 26, 2011 at 07:11:48 AM by Larry Harsin

It is just a 3/8 coarse thread bolt that is an inch and a half long, with a lock nut on it. Simply put the nut on the bolt and then go to your bench grinder and grind off some of the threads to make a point on the bolt. Then, back the lock nut off of the bolt to straighten the threads. This is all you need to do. This bolt will be screwed in from the bottom, into the notch on the rail (shifter), to hold it into the 540 or the 1000 position. When you are in the process of shifting, use the bolt to move the shifter to the position you want. Larry


Is the PTO input shaft the same length for both 1850 gas and Perkins diesel?

IP: 99.196.0.56 Posted on March 25, 2011 at 08:41:07 PM by Jeff H.

Hello Larry, I've been meaning to call you but I'm fighting a bad ear infection and can't hear a thing right now. Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me if the PTO input shafts are the same lenght,or if there are ANY differences in the shafts, for a 1850 Gas and for a 1850 Perkins diesel? Thanks again for your time,expertese,and kindness,I really enjoy your website! Best wishes to you and yours! Jeff

Re(1): Is the PTO input shaft the same length for both 1850 gas and Perkins diesel?

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 26, 2011 at 07:00:36 AM by Larry Harsin

They are about the same length, but they can be different. Each one of those shafts has a part number stamped onto the shaft and you should stay with that part number. Thanks for the comments on the website. Larry


770 Oliver hydraulics

IP: 74.41.46.142 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 04:38:32 PM by Eldon

Oliver 770 (1958) The oil in the hydraulic reservoir leaks into the transmission, it takes overnight. The unit is started annually but not used for a number of years.

Re(1): 770 Oliver hydraulics

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 25, 2011 at 07:43:25 AM by Larry Harsin

The pump will have to be removed from the tractor and repaired as needed. Usually, bearings and seals fixes it. Larry


3 point hitch

IP: 173.87.219.95 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 01:59:43 PM by 65Oliver1650

3 point hitch wont lift round stalk bales. Loader seems to raise and lower just fine yet. Lifts it about half way and then stops. Doesn't sink down at all. Just holds it about half way up. Any ideas on what to check?

Re(1): 3 point hitch

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 25, 2011 at 07:41:56 AM by Larry Harsin

The bales weigh more than what your hitch can handle. You can increase your pump pressure up to 2200, which is accomplished by adding shims. Check your pressure using a gauge at the remote outlet. Larry


Oliver 70 rear end

IP: 173.31.68.252 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 05:22:44 AM by Mac

Larry, I decided to remove the covers and check the gears on the transmission and rear end on my Oliver 70. The transmission appears to be good but the left hand drive gear that drives the bull gear in the rear end has some delamination on it. The bad spot runs the full depth of the tooth and is about a 1/4 inch wide so it appears to be fairly bad. How big of a job are we looking at to replace the gear? Next question is if I do replace it, do you have some used gears for sale or should I contact Korves and see if they have them in stock?

Re(1): Oliver 70 rear end

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 07:10:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I do have some gears, but I need to know the serial number of your 70. I have switched gears from side to side, so that you have a new surface to work with. You might try that. If you decide to disassemble the tractor to fix this, I would get a Shop Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 rear end

IP: 204.108.0.11 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 12:18:25 PM by Mac

I have ordered the shop manuals for the tractor. I am going to try to swap sides first, I think that may work. If not, I'll get the serial number for you then. Thanks!


Brakes locked up?

IP: 75.121.226.48 Posted on March 22, 2011 at 11:26:55 PM by Dustin D

I was plowing today with an Oliver tractor. I pushed the brake pedal then a loud popping sound happened and the brake pedal went to the floor. Now it acts like the brakes are locked up. Brakes are squalling when I try to take off. Not really sure what to do. Any suggestions would be greatly appriecated.

Re(1): Brakes locked up?

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 07:06:20 AM by Larry Harsin

You didn't say what model of Oliver you have..... You will have to take the brake apart and see what happened. Something might have broken. Larry


Changing front tire on 1650

IP: 70.64.129.131 Posted on March 22, 2011 at 05:24:54 PM by Mark

One front tire on my 1650 is flat, and I have to remove it. Where should I place the jack? Should I block up the tractor? Any advice/tips most welcome as I am new to this. I have a 20 ton jack and old railway ties I can use for blocks. Thanks.

Re(1): changing front tire on 1650

IP: 69.26.13.71 Posted on March 22, 2011 at 06:30:34 PM by Bill Wagner

On my 1650 I place a floor jack (or a bottle jack) under the vertical post right inside the wheel bearing. There is a flat spot on the bottom of it and my tires are narrow enough so there is room.

Re(2): changing front tire on 1650

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 23, 2011 at 07:03:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The main thing is to find a satisfactory spot where you can lock the brake and not have the tractor roll off of the jack. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should get one. It will tell you things like this also. You can get one from the museum at Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry


diesel head

IP: 72.251.63.77 Posted on March 19, 2011 at 10:21:46 PM by corey

I have a diesel head with a crack between intake and exhaust valves is this a problem heard couple different answers crack by injector normal iam pretty sure this is a energy cell head on a 1650 thanks for any information and your time

Re(1): diesel head

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 06:38:42 AM by Larry Harsin

There are tractors in service with the problem you describe. I would take the head to a machine shop and have it pressure tested. Larry


880 power steering

IP: 173.19.1.193 Posted on March 18, 2011 at 01:53:55 PM by tyler

My 59 880 developed a problem with the power steering. When I turn the wheel, the steering wheel feels like it has a stripped gear in the shaft and the steering does not respond. I am thinking that the problem is that the worm gears at the end of the steering column are stripped out. Is there another possibility? I noticed that the reservoir spit out some fluid.

Re(1): 880 power steering

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 06:36:58 AM by Larry Harsin

There could be something broken in the steering unit. I doubt if the gears are stripped. Does your 880 have the steering shaft that goes down to the radiator? Or does it have the full oil steering? If you have the full oil steering, you may have splines stripped where the steering wheel shaft attaches to the steering unit. Larry


1555

IP: 70.169.109.105 Posted on March 18, 2011 at 01:14:26 PM by Robert

What would cause a 1555 to loose all hydraulics all of a sudden?

Re(1): 1555

IP: 69.72.27.149 Posted on March 19, 2011 at 07:16:35 AM by Larry from MD

Splines stripped on the driveshaft. Does the pto still work? Preasure relief valve stuck open? Hole in pan has let all the oil out.

Re(2): 1555

IP: 70.169.109.105 Posted on March 19, 2011 at 09:31:41 AM by Robert

PTO still works.Plenty of fluid although fluid looked milky after this happened yesterday but I just looked at it and it is clear like new fluid. What is a good replacement for the type 55 fluid? I think I will check pressure relief now and see if it is stuck while I wait to see what your reply is. Thanks

Re(3): 1555

IP: 69.72.27.77 Posted on March 19, 2011 at 12:30:01 PM by Larry from MD

If you don't have water in the system one thing that makes the oil appere white is being full of air. That can happen with a stuck open relief valve.When the oil has a chance to settle the air floats out.

Re(4): 1555

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 06:33:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I recommend non-foaming hydraulic oil, medium grade. Sorry to be so slow in answering, we have been gone to the National Oliver Show. Larry


Gas 1650 Governor Linkage

IP: 70.240.91.206 Posted on March 18, 2011 at 08:36:46 AM by V Hargrave

I purchased a 1650 Gas and am in the process of rebuilding the engine. It appears that I have all parts except the linkage rod that goes from the governor to the carburetor is broke and is missing the end that goes to the governor. Does anyone know where I can purchase one of these? If not could someone provide a sketch or information on how it long it is and what type of connection is used on the governor end.

Re(1): Gas 1650 Governor Linkage

IP: 69.72.27.77 Posted on March 19, 2011 at 12:26:22 PM by Larry from MD

There is just a 90 degree bend out with a hole for a cotter pin on the front end.The total length to the pin centers is 18 and 3/8 inches.

Re(2): Gas 1650 Governor Linkage

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 06:30:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a clevis for the carb end if you need one. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Meeting. Larry

Re(3): Gas 1650 Governor Linkage

IP: 70.240.67.160 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 08:41:19 AM by VH

The clevis is still on my carb. Just wanted to make sure how it should be attached to the gov. and the appox length which has been supplied.

Re(4): Gas 1650 Governor Linkage

IP: 139.55.197.181 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 12:11:20 PM by Larry K

When I restored a 1650, mine was in poor condition. I tried several salvage yards and they said they had none because the linkage was an item that was bad on all they brought in. I had to fabricate a new one.


1800 Oliver got a shake

IP: 63.19.131.73 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 08:06:38 PM by Chris Jones

I have a 1800 Oliver diesel tractor. When it is in direct drive it has a shake at certain idle speeds, when in hydro it does not shake. What do you think? Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1800 Oliver got a shake

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 07:50:33 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have a loose output shaft on your hydra-power. Check alignment of the sprockets at the coupling, Also, check the condition of the chain itself. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Oliver got a shake

IP: 64.136.26.227 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 07:29:08 PM by Chris Jones

When you say loose output shaft do you mean bearing ? I have checked sprockets and chain and they look good.

Re(3): 1800 Oliver got a shake

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 16, 2011 at 06:53:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, I mean the output shaft bearings. Larry


550 Hydraulics

IP: 68.237.139.108 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 07:43:44 PM by Bill Baldwin

I recently purchased an oliver 550. The three point arms do not respond. they can be picked up easily by hand. The fluid is full. I was told the tractor had a loader and the three pt. worked until the loader was taken off and the two ports plugged. Any suggestions? thanks Bill

Re(1): 550 Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 07:48:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Unplug the 2 ports. Put it back the way it was and see if that makes a difference, Larry


Oliver 70 front end

IP: 173.31.68.252 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 08:29:29 PM by Mac

I am working on my Oliver 70 to tighten up the front end as it shimmy's badly. I took the steering wheel assembly off to include the worm gear box underneath the gas tank. The gears look good. They seem to be tight when I match them up. The bushing in the gearbox where the bell crank goes into the push rod seems a little loose though. Also, the push rod looks like I should replace the caps on both ends as well as the bell crank. It looks fairly worn. Am I on the right track here? I haven't gotten to the front end yet but am working on it. Have you seem any specific items that are a problem on 70 front ends in the past that I should focus on? I know you told me in an earlier email that the whole system can have issues. Thanks!!

Re(1): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 08:01:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the whole thing can have issues. They do tend to shimmy if there is any wear anywhere. If you could rebush that sector shaft, it would probably help a lot. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 08:27:45 AM by dale h

take the weight off the front end and turn the front wheels back and forth by hand while keeping the steering wheel held still. you will be able to see where play is.

Re(3): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 204.108.0.11 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 02:12:30 PM by Mac

Thanks Dale, I'm going to do that as soon as I get back to it. Have you had experience with this type of steering on 70's? If so, where did you see the worst wear or play in the system. Thanks!

Re(4): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 09:43:27 AM by Dale H

yes i have experience with 70.I completely re did our old 70.Had steering box,and front wheel post apart.front post only for seals.The front post and steering box gears are very sturdy,i had issue with ends of drag link. The threads were stripped on nuts and caused much play. dale h.

Re(5): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 173.31.68.252 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 07:09:40 PM by Mac

Thanks! That helps a lot. The threads at the rear of the drag link are in good shape but the two caps that saddle the ball on the bell crank seem to be worn as well as the bell crank ball. I will try to replace them and then check the front. This should tighten the steering up sufficiently. Did you have to order parts? If so, where did you order them from? I contacted Korves but they seem to be a little light on 70 parts. Also, were you able to tighten your system up to your satisfaction? Thanks again!

Re(6): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 10:38:10 PM by Dale H

I have a pretty good bone yard 20miles away. That linkage is not rocket science,just needs to be tight. I got used drag link and had enough parts for sockets to make good 1. There are three parts 70's on pittsburgh craigs list. Dale H

Re(7): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 16, 2011 at 07:00:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I have some of that stuff. When you find out what you need, you can give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(8): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 204.108.0.11 Posted on March 16, 2011 at 12:51:04 PM by Mac

Thanks Larry! I will. I'll get the list together this weekend and call you. Thanks again!


2-70 White

IP: 207.190.127.208 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 05:25:54 PM by Dave Clason

Been haveing a lot of trouble with a 2-70 I rebuilt. It runs like a bucket of s---. Checked timing several times and its right on.Pump and injectors have both been redone but it has sat for several years.I did check injectors and the are fine. I also took the pump apart and checked for any issue inside, ever thing looks good. I did a compression test and it only has 240 lbs (cranking)in every cyld. Not sure what it should have but must need more than that.Do you have any ideas? Thanks in advance

Re(1): 2-70 White

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 07:58:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how many hours your tractor has or any of it's history. It could be that it is just a tired engine that needs to be overhauled. If you have the head off of it, the relation of the valves to the pistons is critical and if they are sunk down in the head at all, it may need new valve seats. Larry

Re(2): 2-70 White

IP: 207.190.127.208 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 05:45:43 PM by Dave Clason

The engine is new, Just overhauled it.I have checked everything over but am wondering about the head. Do you know if the valves are to be flush with the head or are they sticking below the head some? Mine are flush and I'm wondering if they should stick below some. Thanks, Dave Clason

Re(3): 2-70 White

IP: 98.80.146.53 Posted on March 15, 2011 at 11:40:22 PM by Cleon Couey

They should protrude out. Intake .014-.029 Exhaust .026-.041 New valve seats will have to be installed to achieve this. You'll have more compression and it'll start better too.

Re(4): 2-70 White

IP: 75.105.51.35 Posted on March 21, 2011 at 06:44:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Looks like you have a good answer to your question. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show and just got home last night. Larry


Oliver 1365 rear rim removal

IP: 108.25.122.59 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 10:46:08 AM by Sam

Hello. I have auto mechanic experience from years back, but I am a tractor neophyte. I need to remove a 30" rear rim from my model 1365 to repair a rusted out valve stem hole. Can I safely lift this tractor with a 48" farm jack? If so, where is the jacking point (I looked and don't see an obvious spot; I also don't see this documented in the manuals)? Once it is safely supported, can I just remove the 5 nuts and clamps and pull the rim straight off? Many thanks for any guidance you can offer.

Re(1): Oliver 1365 rear rim removal

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 14, 2011 at 07:54:19 AM by Larry Harsin

It would be better to use a hydraulic bottle type jack and blocking. My experience with the farm jack that you describe is that they tend to be unstable. I would place the jack beneath the axle housing if possible and then use some blocking as a safety measure. The rest of the operation is as you describe. Larry


1850 Perkins tach drive gear question..

IP: 75.106.96.59 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 00:27:07 AM by Jeff

Hello again Larry, I also am in need of a new tach drive gear, mine just quit on me, and I can't locate one anywhere. I have tried Korves, Maibach, other Oliver sites, even ebay, any suggestions or ideas? I really don't want to run without it since this is an original low hour tractor in unbelievable condition, I would like to keep the hours "original", with no "unknown" hours. Last of all, do you happen to know the grade and dimensions of the cap screw, and lock nut, that they use for supporting the Hydra-shift trans and engine? It doesn't give this in my manual, mine did not come from the factory with it, but I would like to install one? Thanks again for your time and assistance, I really appreciate it!

Re(1): 1850 Perkins tach drive gear question..

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 08:40:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I just use a grade 5, 5/8 bolt. And I use a piece of flat iron to use for the bolt to push against between the bolt and the hydra-power. You'll have to drill a counter-sink hole in that flat iron, so the bolt will fit in it. Larry


1850 Perkins oil pressure dilemma.

IP: 75.105.128.37 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 00:17:10 AM by Jeff

Hello Larry, thanks for the GREAT web site. I have a 66 1850 Perkins diesel, on start up it has a little blow-by(small puff of mostly white/grayish smoke) but not much at all. Once started it has good oil pressure(40-45 psi), it runs perfectly, purrs like a kitten, however,once it's been running for a while the oil pressure drops to about 20 psi. or a little below. It is not using oil, it is not smoking much at all, if any, when warmed up. It runs like a champ, it's not overheating, and is still very easy on fuel. The oil does not appear to have any fuel contamination, it has no water/coolant in it, and the oil gauge seems to be working fine. Basically it has no other issues and runs like brand new, I just can't figure this out. I have an original Oliver repair manual from a dealership (the same manual the mechanics used at the dealerships), and I have double checked all of the troubleshooting senario's, but mine does not appear to fit any of them. I am disabled, and wheelchair bound, so it's harder for me to do major repairs, therefore I would like to make sure this is not something simple before I go pay someone "big bucks" to repair it. This drop in pressure just started, and has me concerned, I don't want to risk any engine damage. I can't think of what I might be over-looking in my diagnosis. The tractor only has about 4200 original hours on it, and has had an easy life, no real heavy work, so I wouldn't think it would need new rod and main bearings, or oil pump yet, but I know I could be wrong. ANY suggestions, advice, or assistance would be GREATLY appreciated! Again, I'm just trying to eliminate the "easy fixes", before having to shell out the big money to overhaul it. Plus I'm located in northcentral Missouri, and I haven't been able to find anyone in my area that is very familiar with my tractor. Thanks again for the great website, plus your time and assistance. I apologize for the long message.

Re(1): 1850 Perkins oil pressure dilemma.

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 08:35:22 AM by Larry Harsin

One thing I would check is on the suction lines between the screen and the pump. There are some O rings that should be replaced, if it hasn't already been done. There's an idler gear in the timing gear train, that can have the mounting bolts loosen up, causing the problem you describe. The earlier Perkins engine up to Engine Serial Number 8516, used a 4 lobe pump. From 8516 and up, used a 6 lobe pump. To put a 6 love pump in and earlier tractor, use: 167-186A pump, a 163-944A spring, a 163-945A line, a 163-946A line, and 2, 159A O rings (or a #13). I have one of these earlier version 1850's and the oil pressure is a bit low on it as yours is. I'm going to leave it a bit low. Call me if you want to visit about this. 712-362-2966. Larry


1850G radiator

IP: 24.218.239.26 Posted on March 12, 2011 at 08:01:10 PM by dan

Larry, The radiator in my 1850 gas has a couple of bad tubes that are moderately leaking. Before I pull it out, do you think a typical radiator shop can re-core it, or should I try to find a good used one?

Re(1): 1850G radiator

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 08:03:58 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is just 2 tubes, I would do what the radiator shop says, but I would consider blocking those 2 tubes. If the radiator shop says to re-core it, I would have it recored. Many times the "used" radiator you buy, is as bad or worse than the one you have, due to their age. Larry


oliver 77

IP: 74.213.210.34 Posted on March 12, 2011 at 03:23:19 PM by andrew

what is the torque on the head bolts for a 1952 oliver 77 row crop and pattern to do it

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 13, 2011 at 07:56:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Start from the center and work out. I torque them to 100 lbs. Start by torquing them to 40 lbs. Then, torque them in 10 lb increments until they are 100. Then, start the engine and let it warm up, then let it cool down and re-torque them. Larry


2255 Air Filters

IP: 216.120.134.108 Posted on March 11, 2011 at 11:26:52 AM by OliiMike

looking at replacing the air filters on top of the engine. The first filter comes out easy with a wing nut, but the secondary filter is secured in. Both the service manual and operators manual state: "Have dealer service". Whats the big trick on replacing this?

Re(1): 2255 Air Filters

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 11, 2011 at 10:35:05 PM by Larry Harsin

There's no big trick to it. You will probably need to fabricate a tool to get the other one out. You may be able to borrow a tool from your AGCO Dealer. Larry


engine size

IP: 76.64.165.235 Posted on March 10, 2011 at 04:51:52 PM by jamie

Thanks for the response earlier Larry. I'm confused on what cid is my 550 oliver tractor engine(serial # 127472-519). 144 or 155 cid?

Re(1): engine size

IP: 99.188.108.64 Posted on March 11, 2011 at 04:18:15 PM by Gengler

Yours is a 1963 model with the 155 cu.in.

Re(2): engine size

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 11, 2011 at 10:31:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree. It's right in there where they changed from one to the other. Larry


2255

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on March 10, 2011 at 01:49:24 PM by Dale H

My friend has a 2255.He says it has a 3150cat motor. I thought they all had 3208 motors. Can you set me straight? Thanks Dale H.

Re(1): 2255

IP: 75.221.128.242 Posted on March 10, 2011 at 06:53:28 PM by Devin Royer

The early 2255s had the 3150 through 1973. Then in 1974 the upgraded to the cat 3208 for a better cooling system and a little more power.

Re(2): 2255

IP: 75.104.182.238 Posted on March 11, 2011 at 10:28:32 PM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. Larry


Oliver 880 Diesel engine replacement

IP: 64.85.144.213 Posted on March 8, 2011 at 02:47:50 PM by Craig

Larry, I have an 880D with a bad engine and was wondering what other engines fit this tractor. Thanks, Craig

Re(1): Oliver 880 Diesel engine replacement

IP: 75.104.182.3 Posted on March 9, 2011 at 06:50:44 AM by Larry Harsin

88, S88, 880. A 1600 diesel would also work. Larry


1855 Steering Seals

IP: 72.159.20.66 Posted on March 8, 2011 at 12:04:15 PM by Terry Rice

I have an 1855 that the power steering cylinder started leaking and spraying oil really bad. I have never had any steering problems before. Should I try to rebuild this cylinder or replace the whole unit? This is my loader tractor. Thanks in advance for your help, Terry

Re(1): 1855 Steering Seals

IP: 75.104.182.3 Posted on March 9, 2011 at 06:48:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Ag Parts First recently ran an ad for those seal kits. I would repair it with a seal kit. 866-264-9720. Larry


550 gas engine

IP: 65.93.162.174 Posted on March 8, 2011 at 07:39:26 AM by jamie

Larry, thanks for the great site! I'm rebuilding my 1963 550 gas oliver and the manual says to remove the ridge above the upper limit of the top piston ring travel. Is this so the new ring won't hit it? I'm replacing the rings not the sleeves or pistons. If so does it get removed to the same diameter as the rest of the sleeve?

Re(1): 550 gas engine

IP: 75.104.182.3 Posted on March 9, 2011 at 06:45:58 AM by Larry Harsin

There are regular ridge reamers to take that out. Also, use a bolt with a washer to clamp the sleeve in place, so it won't turn when you remove the ridge. Larry


Hydra-power relief valve

IP: 72.2.201.67 Posted on March 6, 2011 at 09:24:08 PM by JNP

Hi Larry, Just got done rebuilding the hydra-power on my dad's 1600. Before the rebuild we were unable to check the pump pressure because of a stripped out plug. After the rebuild in direct drive we get 150psi for a short time and then the gauge starts "humming" around 130psi. Is it likely that the relief valve isn't seating properly? If so how do we go about resurfacing the valve seat?

Re(1): Hydra-power relief valve

IP: 75.105.52.35 Posted on March 7, 2011 at 07:04:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't ever had to resurface a valve seat. I just put a shim or two in to raise the pressure slightly. Larry

Re(2): Hydra-power relief valve

IP: 173.19.1.193 Posted on March 18, 2011 at 01:59:52 PM by Tyler

I don't know if the relief valve is the same as it is on my 880, but rather than buy the shim kit, I used a 1/4" washer that I opened up with a dremel tool. 1 washer increased pressure from 800psi to 1100 psi.


Oliver 70 ignition system

IP: 173.31.68.252 Posted on March 6, 2011 at 11:31:21 AM by Mac

I have an Oliver 70 gas, a 1947 model that has been having some issues with running. It will start and it idles at low idle fairly well but it misses pretty badly at high idle. Also, it is starting to miss badly at low idle and dies quite a bit. I replaced the spark plugs and gapped them at .025 at the manual states. Can you point me in the right direction to get it running better again? Thanks!!

Re(1): Oliver 70 ignition system

IP: 75.105.52.35 Posted on March 7, 2011 at 07:02:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Check out your ignition system. It might be bad points or out of adjustment. Or, it could be bad carb or it could be dirty fuel. You'll just have to check it out. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 ignition system

IP: 204.108.0.11 Posted on March 7, 2011 at 10:14:26 AM by Mac

Thank Larry, if it is the carb, do I need to find someone that has extensive knowledge of Oliver carbs to work on it? Or can any good mechanic do this for me? Thanks again!

Re(3): Oliver 70 ignition system

IP: 75.104.182.3 Posted on March 9, 2011 at 06:54:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Any good mechanic can clean a carb. Larry


1610 LOADER

IP: 74.197.160.74 Posted on March 5, 2011 at 10:18:32 AM by KIM

I am looking for a Oliver1610 Loader pick up Cylinder. The one I have is damaged and I need to replace it. Do you have one or who could I buy a new one from?

Re(1): 1610 LOADER

IP: 69.72.27.159 Posted on March 5, 2011 at 11:10:12 AM by Larry from MD

Measure it for size and try www.surpluscenter.com

Re(2): 1610 LOADER

IP: 75.105.52.35 Posted on March 7, 2011 at 06:59:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry


Motor blowing oil

IP: 67.141.18.252 Posted on March 4, 2011 at 09:12:23 AM by Chris

Hey larry i sent a reply to my last question but wasnt sure you would know I had so I sent this one in a new post. In the last post i submitted i ask you about the motor blowing oil you said a headgasket blow or possible broke rings . we wanted to ask a few more questions before we take the head off. We checked the exhaust manifold without removing it with a flashlight oil appears to be coming in all three directions. Is it possible that the headgasket could be blown and allow oil to enter the exhaust manifold without excessive blowby. Engine starts extremely well and at shutdown appears to have good compression. Before we pull the head is there only one oil passage that goes to rockerarms on this 354 Perkins w/turbo engine. We have pressure tested the oil system on the turbo it doesn't leak any. We also installed 12 new valve seals on the stems of all the valves . Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Re(1): Motor blowing oil

IP: 69.72.27.217 Posted on March 4, 2011 at 11:50:06 AM by Larry from MD

There is only one oil passage to the rockers.Does your engine have the starting system that has the extra pipe running to the intake? I wonder if its putting something into the engine.The other thing that happens to combine engines is engine oil getting pushed into the injector pump(from the bottem)causeing lots of wierd problems.Usualy it stops the engine. Check for discolored(dark) diesel fuel in the injector pump.

Re(2): Motor blowing oil

IP: 75.104.169.21 Posted on March 5, 2011 at 07:10:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Really, I am not that well versed on the Perkins engine. Larry


Removing lower link mounting

IP: 209.60.13.205 Posted on March 1, 2011 at 02:17:39 PM by mike

I need to remove the left hand lower link mounting ( the part that goes into the trans). I have the PTO off, and the draft control spring is loose, I can move the actuating arm by hand, but the key is still tight. Can I pry the shaft out until the key clears and then remove it or do I need to spread the groove in the arm first? How tight is the shaft in the case? Thank You for any help.

Re(1): removing lower link mounting

IP: 75.104.169.235 Posted on March 2, 2011 at 07:23:17 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get that key out first. Then, you should be able to slide the shaft out. Yes, spread the groove in the arm first. The shaft is not tight in the housing. Larry

Re(2): removing lower link mounting

IP: 209.60.13.205 Posted on March 2, 2011 at 09:54:21 AM by mike

Thank you. Followup question, what is the best way to replace, place the needle bearing on the shaft and then insert into the housing or put the bearing in the housing and the insert the shaft?

Re(3): removing lower link mounting

IP: 75.104.182.198 Posted on March 3, 2011 at 08:45:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd put the bearing in first. After you remove the shaft, you'll have to pry the seal out. Then there is a snap ring you'll have to remove before you can take the bearing out. The bearing is a slip-fit, so when reassembling, I would install the bearing by hand before installing the seal. Larry


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