1650 hydra-power

IP: 74.5.139.170 Posted on March 31, 2013 at 08:02:20 AM by Al

I resently aquired a 1650 desiel. It had been sitting for about 5 yrs. He said the hydra-power worked but had a mind of its own. I just got it overhauled and running. The hydra wont work and I believe its in low because of some coasting and slow road speed. Is there anything to try short of an overhaul of the hydra power? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 hydra-power

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on April 2, 2013 at 10:51:48 PM by Larry Harsin

If it isn't shifting up into high, it is probably going to have to be torn down. Larry

880 power booster

IP: 66.242.92.165 Posted on March 29, 2013 at 03:15:24 PM by Dean Gabbert

as I was pushing the power booster into the high range, as it was about to snap over center,the lever went bad. There is no tension you can move it back and forth but nothing happens. It seems to be in the higher range. any ideas on what happened.

Re(1): 880 power booster

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on March 30, 2013 at 07:52:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Something must have broken in the linkage or maybe a pin dropped out. You'll have to investigate and see what happened. Larry

1755 engine trouble

IP: 208.84.173.252 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 08:24:22 PM by Jeremy

I have appreciated all your help in the past. I have a 1755 diesel with oil in the radiator and a little antifreeze in the oil. I noticed a little antifreeze in the oil today when I changed the oil. It sat in the shed all winter and hadn't ran. It is my spring tillage tractor and am more than a little concerned. Do you think both symptoms could be a head gasket? Or is it possible to have the o rings on the sleeves leaking and a head gasket problem all at once? I have replaced the head gasket on my 1850 gas before. I have never had a diesel engine apart before. Do I have to take the manifold off and the injectors or can I leave them on to pull the head. Is the rocker arm and setting the valves the same as a gas? I appreciate any an all help.

Re(1): 1755 engine trouble

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 29, 2013 at 07:48:02 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is probably the O rings on the sleeves that are leaking. If you are careful, using a hoist, you can lift the cylinder head assembly with the manifolds and injectors right off the tractor. You want to be careful because the injectors protrude the surface of the head and can be easily damaged. Valve tappet setting on the diesel is .030 for both intake and exhaust. Larry

770

IP: 204.9.159.194 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 12:52:28 PM by Mike Herms

I have a late model Oliver 770 and i have seen that they used both 80 / 90 or 10 w 30 oil in the transmission and differential? what is the correct oil that should be used in the transmission and differentail? also the tractor is missing the serial number tag, did they stamp the serial numbers anywhere else on the tractor?

Re(1): 770

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 29, 2013 at 07:44:23 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has power booster, you want to use the lighter oil. If the tractor doesn't have power booster, you want to use the heavier oil. If you have a power booster, I would use Hy-Tran or the equivalent. If your tag is missing, if you will call the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City and give them the Engine Serial Number (on the place on the block where the alternator bracket bolts on) they will be able to tell you what the tractor number is (if they have the engine serial number). Phone for the museum is 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(3): 770

IP: 204.9.159.194 Posted on April 5, 2013 at 01:34:48 PM by mike herms

what should the oil pressure be on this 770 gas engine? i am getting 20 psi at full throttle and a cold engine.

Re(4): 770

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on April 22, 2013 at 06:36:07 AM by Larry Harsin

That sounds normal. Larry

Oliver 2255 hydraulics

IP: 67.131.13.125 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 09:36:00 AM by Jack

When I use my remotes or stem on the brakes my steering locks up like I loose hydraulic pressure. I have changed the pump and priority valve. Any Ideas where to look next

Re(1): Oliver 2255 hydraulics

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 07:45:26 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't. Call O'Brien Co Impl. and ask for Rick the Shop Foreman, and ask him. 800-320-6224. Larry

354 Perkins

IP: 166.205.55.17 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:43:40 AM by Jesse Hayes

Larry would u recommend the 1850 Perkins? Or the 1855 310 waukesha? Which is the better tractor

Re(1): 354 Perkins

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 07:42:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the 1850 Perkins is a better engine. Larry

1850 top pto shaft

IP: 166.205.55.36 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:30:13 AM by Jesse hayes

Larry, my 1850 I bought yesterday has the top pto shaft out of it but the guy has it with the tractor how do u put it back in?

Re(1): 1850 top pto shaft

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:36:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Very carefully! :-) You have to use a long 1/2" threaded rod to put the shaft in there. Then, there should be a plug, O ring and snap ring. After the shaft has been installed, put the O ring in it's groove, then install the plug and put the snap ring in last. Larry

77 Transmission Oil

IP: 98.215.108.119 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 05:14:18 AM by John Shanahan

What do you recommend for Trans Oil. The Service Manual Calls for 10W 30, the Operators Manual calls for 90 to 140. Thanks John

Re(1): 77 Transmission Oil

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:34:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use the heavier oil rather than the engine oil. The 85-140 is a good choice I think. Larry

1957 super 55

IP: 96.235.230.24 Posted on March 25, 2013 at 08:48:14 PM by Joe

Im replacing the bearings in the bevel pinion shaft in the transmission and was wondering if its possible to remove the shaft without taking the brake assembily apart?

Re(1): 1957 super 55

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:32:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is possible. Get a Shop Manual for your tractor from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(1): 1957 super 55

IP: 96.235.230.24 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 05:21:57 PM by Joe

I have the manual and its saying either remove the differential or slide it to the side but I was looking at the tractor and I have to remove a few more parts but I think I might be able to rotate the tire and pull the shaft out at the same time as it rotates around the diff. I was just wondering if you or anyone else has done it like this

Re(2): 1957 super 55

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 07:41:29 AM by Larry Harsin

It is doable. Larry

fender repairs

IP: 70.199.102.99 Posted on March 25, 2013 at 11:40:10 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. I am doing some tin repair on the fenders on my 1855. A lot of rot down by where the fender bolts to the bracket. Took the fenders off and I thought I would get some metal and skin over the damaged parts and tig or bolt the new metal to the fender and bolt throught new holes. 98% of fender is all good steel and solid. Just want to beef it up. What gauge metal would you suggest I use for this repair? Of if you think I am going in the wrong direction let me know.

Re(1): fender repairs

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:31:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any recommendations. I would just take it to my welding shop where they have the materials and have them match it up. Larry

1850 transmission

IP: 72.35.173.166 Posted on March 24, 2013 at 02:05:46 PM by Hunter Hamaker

Hi I've got a 1850 diesel the has the input shaft in the transmission locked up. I have found a 1800 diesel parts tractor are the transmissions the same on these two tractors

Re(1): 1850 transmission

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:29:25 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a C series

Oliver 500 diesel

IP: 208.54.32.215 Posted on March 24, 2013 at 11:43:42 AM by Mike Herndon

Hi, i own a Oliver 500 which i purchased two years ago it runs good and has a trip bucket on it. I noticed when first purchased that the main loader piston leaked and i had let i sit till this year. i got it out and it started right up and i put into shop to repair piston. at this time both the loader and three point which i assume are on the same pump system worked. after replacing the cylinder gaskets i refilled the system and it was struggling to work i thought maybe air in line but tired it again and now it does not work at all. Here are my questions: I used a napa brand transmission/hidrolic fluid? to refill please let me know best fluids. This has effected both loader and tree point. Are reservoirs the same for the transmission Thanks, Mike Herndon PS i have a owners manual ordered

Re(1): Oliver 500 diesel

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:24:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not familiar with a 500 tractor. You will have to get an Operator's Manual and go from there. You can get a manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

1855 power sterring

IP: 70.199.103.55 Posted on March 24, 2013 at 10:55:55 AM by Jerry

Hello Larry. My 1855 every once in a while, after I start it, in winter, the power steering does not work. If I shut the tractor off and start it back up works fine. Sometimes it never happens but when it does, I could drive it around the field and the power streering never kicks in. Shut it off and start it up and its fine. All fluids are up to snuff. I thought at first it was just due to cold weather and needed to warm up. Your thoughts?

Re(1): 1855 power sterring

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:22:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the warm-up makes sense. I don't have any particular ideas on this. Larry

belt drive box

IP: 71.245.7.86 Posted on March 22, 2013 at 04:35:26 PM by Greg Salvatore

Ok this may sound strange but I am trying to set up my 88 Diesel to run a portable Pellet mill , the mill is set up to run 540 or 1,000 I hope to run it off the belt drive on my 88 and use the pto to run the feed grinder to feed the pellet mill , Do you know if there is a stub shaft that I can bolt to the belt drive flange to hook up the pto shaft to ? or will I have to have one made ? I hope you can help

Re(1): belt drive box

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 08:20:40 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to have one made. Sorry we are slow in answering, we were gone to the National Get Together. Larry

Re(2): belt drive box

IP: 71.245.7.86 Posted on March 26, 2013 at 09:10:30 AM by Gregory Salvatore

Ok Thanks for your help Larry, The help that you provide to us is worth the wait Thanks again for your help over the years

pto res

IP: 70.194.6.225 Posted on March 21, 2013 at 10:59:16 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Great site. I like reading your posts better than the newspaper. My question is this. I have an 1855 diesel. On the pto resivoir on the back of the tractor. Where the pto level is attached to? When I pulled off the dust cap,, it was full of grease. What should be in this thing? Does not say in any of the books. The grease is old, dirty and stiff.. Should I clean it out and repack it?

Re(1): pto res

IP: 97.73.64.145 Posted on March 21, 2013 at 11:41:04 AM by larry from maryland

Thats the hydrolic valve that engages the pto.Haveing grease in there helps it from filling with rain and rusting solid.Keep the cap on.

Oliver 546 plow

IP: 50.103.225.33 Posted on March 20, 2013 at 12:51:04 PM by doug

Thanks Larry for the great website. I recently bought a 546, 4 bottom, semi mounted plow. Do you know where I can find a operators manual for it? Ive tried ebay and the usual places on the internet but have been unsuccessful. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 546 plow

IP: 76.208.31.103 Posted on March 23, 2013 at 10:36:36 AM by 90% ret'd

Floydcountymuseum.org They have the exact copies of the originals.

Hard starting 1855

IP: 70.199.101.1 Posted on March 19, 2013 at 04:08:30 PM by Jerry Shannon

Larry, I heard that a switch in the standard starter on my 1855 to a "gear reduction starter" will assist in cold winter starts. My block heater does the job but in the event I dont plug in, would a different starter help starting on a day when temps are in the teens? Your helpl and advice has been great. Thank you.

Re(1): Hard starting 1855

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 28, 2013 at 08:07:40 AM by Larry Harsin

They tell me that the gear reduction starter will help. I just brought one home, but I havn't tried it yet. I bought the starter at the HPOCA Winter Get-Together. It is from Maple Springs Farm in Verona WI 608-658-2072 or website: http://stores.ebay.com/Maple-Springs-Farm Sorry for the late answer to your question. We don't know how we missed it. Larry & Sandra

oliver 70 carb

IP: 152.121.17.251 Posted on March 19, 2013 at 10:37:52 AM by clint

i have a 1947? oliver 70 rowcrop tractor that im in the search for a carb for. in the search i am trying to find out what the exsact carb for it should be. i have found somethings online that it might be a zenith 10002. any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. also any info on where a cheap rebuild would could be found

Re(1): oliver 70 carb

IP: 206.193.242.100 Posted on March 21, 2013 at 08:57:02 AM by Dale H in Pay

Correct carb for HC engine is "zenith 161XJ7". Treadwell Carb Co. Is a great place for carb work. They are in Treadwell Ny. 607-829-8321

steering, 3point hitch, hydrolics

IP: 206.113.132.130 Posted on March 16, 2013 at 02:43:43 PM by Aaron

Hello: I have 3 questions for you if i may. 1) How hard is it to add two hydrolic remotes to an oliver 1365. 2) My three point hitch link arms jump and pulse up and down loaded or unloaded. What can cause this. 3) My power stearing works 100% to the left and works 50% of the time turnng right. Any Idea

Re(1): steering, 3point hitch, hydrolics

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 18, 2013 at 08:42:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I am not qualified to answer questions on the Fiat Olivers. I would suggest you get a Shop Manual from the museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry

1952 Oliver standard 88 diesel

IP: 66.254.222.123 Posted on March 15, 2013 at 07:56:58 AM by Jack Rowley

I have a 1952 Oliver standard 88 diesel that I can't get started unless I give it a shot of ether or pull it a few feet and then it runs fine. I've tried all kinds of possible fixes but nothing seems to work. I was wondering if you might have any ideas of what I need to do ?

Re(1): 1952 Oliver standard 88 diesel

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 15, 2013 at 08:22:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Does the engine smoke when you are cranking it with the starter? If it doesn't, I would check the lift pump and make sure it is delivering plenty of fuel to the injection head. If it is making smoke, then I would assume that your injection head on your pump is weak. If it doesn't deliver good fuel to the injection head, you may have a bad injection valve or something else wrong with your lift pump. Larry

1850

IP: 166.205.68.20 Posted on March 14, 2013 at 06:38:09 PM by Jesse Hayes

Larry did the 1850 just come in Perkins and LP has and just gas or was their a washau diesel put in them also? And are the 1850 standard Perkins rare?

Re(1): 1850

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 15, 2013 at 08:19:22 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1850 diesels were Perkins and the gas engines were Waukesha. No. They aren't rare! Larry

rear main seal

IP: 68.199.184.13 Posted on March 14, 2013 at 04:32:24 PM by chris

larry i got the rear main seal for my oliver 77, its the cork style but im having trouble putting it on any ideas?

Re(1): rear main seal

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 15, 2013 at 08:18:06 AM by Larry Harsin

It isn't hard to put on, just work it in there carefully. Use a small punch and a hammer. Larry

super 55 shifting

IP: 71.53.151.110 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 06:39:22 AM by Tommy Thomason

I recently purchased an oliver super 55 for small jobs around the pastures. It has only one gear shift lever but says it has a high and low range 6 forward 2 reverse. Can't figure out how to change gear range. Have tried lifting or pushing down on shift lever but it doesn't seen to make a difference. And can't find any other levers or knobs.

Re(1): super 55 shifting

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 08:51:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. All 6 gears are on that one lever. There are 2 ranges Hi & Low range. There should be a diagram by the steering wheel that shows the position of the gears. The gear shift lever goes forward or back to be in the different ranges. Larry

1655 Hyd. 0 return

IP: 63.170.226.227 Posted on March 11, 2013 at 11:45:18 AM by Chuck

I want to put my round baler on my 1655 d. It needs a zero return valve to relieve pressure as the bale size builds. Is there a spot on the hyd. tank I can put this into?

Re(1): 1655 Hyd. 0 return

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 08:42:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There is a plug near the base of the hydraulic unit on the right side, that would lead back to the reservoir. It is about where your foot would be when you are sitting on the tractor. Larry

year-a-round

IP: 208.80.150.26 Posted on March 9, 2013 at 06:30:09 PM by Andrew

Me and my dad are restoring an Oliver 1955 with a year a round cab. I was wondering if you could tell me where i could find the rubber trim that keeps the windows in the cab.

Re(1): year-a-round

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 08:38:25 AM by Larry Harsin

Go to your people that put in cab glass or windshields in you area. Ask them where to get that type of molding in your area. That company that did the tractor windows is no longer in business. Larry

Oliver 70 Oil Filter

IP: 208.92.171.165 Posted on March 9, 2013 at 05:07:01 PM by Rodney

Hey Larry I am having a hard time finding an oil filter for my 70 row crop. It is the cartridge type and can't seem to find it anywhere. Local AGCO dealer can't come up with anything either. Are these still available?

Re(1): Oliver 70 Oil Filter

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 08:36:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with your NAPA Dealer. If they don't have one, call me. 712-362-2966. Larry

1855 Perkins ?

IP: 166.205.55.15 Posted on March 9, 2013 at 05:03:03 PM by Jesse hayes

Larry me n my dad has found ether a 1850 or 1855 we ran the serial number on it and I'm thinking it's a 1971 but what is funny we can't really tell the serial number on it is SN: 385-22628 could u help and tell us what the year is and maybe a 1850 or 55?

Re(1): 1855 Perkins ?

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 12, 2013 at 08:33:39 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a Perkins, it has to be an 1850. That isn't the serial number. Possibly it is the model number. Check again. The last year they built 1850's was 1968. Possibly a few in 1969. No 1855's were built with Perkins engines in them. Check your numbers on your tractor again. The serial number is on the bottom line. Larry.

fluid leak from brake on 1650

IP: 184.70.63.106 Posted on March 7, 2013 at 12:55:37 PM by Mark K

Hi Larry, I have a 1650 with front end loader that I use on my acreage for plowing snow. I recently noticed fluid leaking from my driver's side brake housing, right where the linkage from the brake pedal articulates into the housing. What kind of fluid would this most likely be? hydraulic, engine oil, or rear end? it is fairly dark in colour. this tractor has always burned some oil and used some hydraulic fluid since I purchased in 2007. I have never changed the rear end fluid. I do seasonal oil changes and top up engine oil and hydraulic fluid as required. Brake on right side is OK. thanks for any advice you can offer.

Re(1): fluid leak from brake on 1650

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on March 8, 2013 at 07:01:30 AM by Larry Harsin

This would be transmission rear end oil. I would check the drain plugs and make sure there isn't water in the oil. If it has water in it, that might be causing the leak. Otherwise, you will have to put a new seal on that brake. Larry

Re(2): fluid leak from brake on 1650

IP: 216.65.191.149 Posted on March 8, 2013 at 06:23:03 PM by Mark K

Thanks for the advice - I will do that

Re(1): fluid leak from brake on 1650

IP: 216.65.191.149 Posted on March 11, 2013 at 05:03:32 PM by Mark K

Larry - can you recommend a service manual that would diagram and describe how to repair the brake seals? I have a scanned copy of a repair manual but it does not cover brakes. It looks like I have water in the gear box due to tan colored gear oil that appeared after I topped it up (I should have drained out everything first). It is leaking out pretty bad so I suspect i will need new seal. Is there just one seal to deal with?

Re(2): fluid leak from brake on 1650

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on March 13, 2013 at 07:51:28 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to work from the outside and try to pull the seal out of the housing. Don't remove the housing from the tractor. If you have water in the transmission oil, it will aggravate seal leakage. Larry

1965 Oliver 1600 Industrial diesel w/ Parsons loader and 15' backhoe

IP: 74.39.163.197 Posted on March 6, 2013 at 01:26:03 PM by Steve Hammond

Hello - great site and kudos to you for taking the time and energy to help all of us! My question is: What's the difference in the gearing between the ag and industrial models of the 1600 diesel tractors? Other than the lack of reverse gears in the industrial model due to the reverser being there and having 28s on the back instead of 34s. Seems like the old girl tools down the road at a pretty good clip. Around 20 mph maybe, never had it clocked. Also, any idea how many of these were made? Doesn't seem like there's too many of them out there. Most people never heard of an Oliver backhoe! Of course, this machine isn't original, I've rebuilt most everything that moves on it at one point or another... Thanks again - Steve

Re(1): 1965 Oliver 1600 Industrial diesel w/ Parsons loader and 15' backhoe

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 6, 2013 at 11:57:22 PM by Larry Harsin

The Industrial version has different gears than the regular transmission, however, the Industrial gears were available as an option in the Ag tractors. I would guess that approx. 20% of the Ag tractors have that option in this area. I don't know how many backhoes were made. It wouldn't have been a large number as there are some around. We have a 770 with a Ware loader and a Henry back hoe that was adapted from a Ford. Larry & Sandra

Re(2): 1965 Oliver 1600 Industrial diesel w/ Parsons loader and 15' backhoe

IP: 74.39.163.197 Posted on March 7, 2013 at 08:03:57 PM by Steve Hammond

Thanks for your reply. Are the industrial gears taller (higher) than the ag gears? I've never been on an Oliver 1600 ag before, must be one of the few I've never operated before. I was toying with the idea of swapping out the reverser with a over/under and clutch unit and putting in the two reverse gears that are missing. I just like clutches better than reversers is all. Is this anything you have or might be willing to trade with me? What kind of job would it be to install the missing reverse gears? A typical tranny teardown? Cause that's a PITA. This hoe of mine seems to sit low in the rear. Tire pressures and all are proper, it just must be the big truck tires they put on the front with the industrial front axle. 11.00 x 20 I believe. Are all the industrial Olivers this way? Thank you in advance for your time - Steve

Re(3): 1965 Oliver 1600 Industrial diesel w/ Parsons loader and 15' backhoe

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 8, 2013 at 06:59:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The industrial gears are faster because the rear tires are smaller. The unit would have to be torn down to put in the reverse gear, because the reverse gear is at the bottom. You can get a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City. It will show you all of the differences. 641-228-1099. Larry

2-105 hydraulics

IP: 67.22.203.175 Posted on March 4, 2013 at 05:40:09 PM by Lyle

Hi Larry, I have a 2-105 that the hyd. pump will start to vibrate when working it, it kinda comes and goes slowing down the throttle helps it go away but then it will come back. the pump works fine but i think im heading for touble if I leave it this way some think im sucking air but i dont know where to look thers not much to leak on the inlet side. I ve done all the usuall stuff new filter ect. any ideas ? thanks Lyle

Re(1): 2-105 hydraulics

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 5, 2013 at 08:01:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I would have the pressures checked at the outlets. If your pump is getting a lot of hours on it, maybe it needs to be replaced. Larry

Super 88 sheet metal

IP: 173.19.21.133 Posted on March 4, 2013 at 01:51:24 PM by Kevin Cain

Larry, I am restoring a 1956 Super 88 gas. I need to replace some sheet metal. DO you know if any sheet metal will interchange between row crop, standard, super 88's or even between super 77's. Particularly rear side panels, hood, and nose cones. Thanks!

Re(1): Super 88 sheet metal

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on March 5, 2013 at 07:55:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Eighty eight Standard will interchange. You can get new reproduction side panels from Lynch Farms. 937-456-6686. www.Lynchfarmstractorparts.com Larry

283 valve adjustment

IP: 75.249.0.209 Posted on March 2, 2013 at 01:08:48 PM by matt

What is the correct procedure for adjusting the valves on a 283 diesel?

Re(1): 283 valve adjustment

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on March 4, 2013 at 08:38:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Set them at .012 on the intakes and .020 on the exhausts. Start with TDC # 1 and turn the engine a third of a turn to set each cylinder and do it in the firing order: 1 5 3 6 2 4. Larry

Higher Road Speed for S88

IP: 71.55.36.48 Posted on March 2, 2013 at 08:11:35 AM by Dave Siebert

I like to go on tractor rides but my Super 88 diesel has a hard time keeping up. I have to run wide open most of the time and still fall behind at times. Is there a gear change I can make? What would you recommend and where could I find the parts?

Re(1): Higher Road Speed for S88

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on March 4, 2013 at 08:19:53 AM by Larry Harsin

There are different ring gear and pinion combinations. Also, there is an industrial gear set for the transmission. You'll have to call salvage yards and find what is available. The simplest way would be to put on over sized tires. Larry

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