"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2014 Archives


880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 71.87.25.74 Posted on March 29, 2014 at 11:54:13 PM by Bob Haupt

I have a 1959 880 Oliver with a weak hydraulic. Presure is around 825 after I shimmed the presure relief valve so I took the pump apart and I am seeing noticable wear on both end plates by the drive gear. The center plate does look good. I read the end plates can be machined down but before doing so I am looking for the specifications on the shafts and gears so I can determine the extent of the wear as it might make more sense to purchase a different or even a re-manufactured pump instead. Can you please provide the specs I can use to check my pump?

Re(1): 880 Hydraulic Pump

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on April 1, 2014 at 07:23:04 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have noticeable wear on the end plates, you should get them redone. Nick Fassler, in Juda WI has the parts you need. 608-897-4993. Larry


1750 Vibration

IP: 66.207.25.164 Posted on March 26, 2014 at 09:52:58 PM by Myron

My wife and I are restoring my father's 1969 Oliver 1750 diesel. The tractor is a working machine on our acreage performing easy tasks such as blading and mowing. We have new rubber on the tractor and am working to identify and fix all oil and fuel leaks. I am extremely concerned about a major vibration that is transmitted to the steering wheel and the seat that increases in intensity when we use PTO implements or when the tractor is worked for more than 30 minutes. Any history of internal problems causing excessive vibration in this tractor? Where would you start your search?

Re(1): 1750 Vibration

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 27, 2014 at 07:22:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You could have a problem right there with the chain coupling between the hydraul and the transmission. Larry


1855 diesel slobbering

IP: 184.63.148.253 Posted on March 25, 2014 at 10:06:31 PM by Bill S

I have a 1971 1855 diesel and it has developed a slobbering issue. We removed the injectors and tested compression. All six were between 300-320 psi. My question is what are the acceptable specs for compression on a Waukesha? This tractor has over 6000 hours on it and we've had it since 3000 with no major issues or overhaul. I'm thinking it is getting tired and wondering if I should send out the injectors and pump to get tested or start to overhaul the whole thing.

Re(1): 1855 diesel slobbering

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 27, 2014 at 07:21:10 AM by Larry Harsin

If the engine has 6000 hrs. on it, I think you can assume it is a tired engine. However, with the compression as you say, it might be feasible to pull the injectors and go from there. They might be able to work on them a bit. Larry


oliver year

IP: 68.46.155.9 Posted on March 24, 2014 at 07:04:55 PM by bob hughes

I have an Oliver 990/OA Ser#462511 It has a David Brown 4 cyl. diesel engine. all of the gauges say David Brown on them. I am trying to find the year of this tractor and a value

Re(1): oliver year

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 27, 2014 at 07:18:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 990 was built in 1964. I have no idea of the value of it. Sorry. Larry


Oil leaking from brake pivot shaft

IP: 67.182.22.68 Posted on March 24, 2014 at 05:50:02 PM by Karle Mahler

After the x-mission oil(80W-90)in our S55(gas)was changed, the oil leaking from brake pivot shaft seals grew worse. Can the seals be replaced without dissembling the x-mission and where can I purchase replacements.

Re(1): Oil leaking from brake pivot shaft

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 27, 2014 at 07:15:22 AM by Larry Harsin

According to the parts book, it appears that the seals are installed on the outside of the housing. So you should not have to disassemble the transmission to preform this task. The seals should be available from your AGCO dealer. Larry


Oliver (White) 1555 power steering line replacement

IP: 69.35.200.55 Posted on March 23, 2014 at 07:02:22 PM by Bryan

I have a hydraulic leak that is coming from the line going to the power steering cylinder. The line is a rigid metal pipe that starts in the back of the engine compartment near the drivers seat (approximately 4'). I removed the line and took it to a few local places to get a hose style replacement. The problem is no one has the connectors needed to match. The additional problem will be getting connectors that swivel, since both side have them currently and are needed to properly install. I suppose having just one could work by turning the hose until one is tight and then installing the other. Any idea of where I can purchase a replacement hose with proper connectors? Or, any idea of what size the connectors are or how to properly measure them?

Re(1): Oliver (White) 1555 power steering line replacement

IP: 66.207.25.164 Posted on March 26, 2014 at 10:01:22 PM by Myron

Have you checked with Maibach tractor parts. This dealership is phenomenal and very knowledgeable concerning anything Oliver or White. They have sourced many parts for us over the years. They are located in Creston, Ohio and ship parts anywhere. Good luck


1750 hydraulics

IP: 206.71.221.96 Posted on March 19, 2014 at 09:55:07 AM by cole

I have an oliver 1750 that is in very good shape that I use every day for grinding feed and doing chores. I believe it is a '67 model. One set of hydraulics works just fine but the other side wont work when it has a load on it. It is the inside lever that wont work. I have talked to a couple local mechanics about this problem but this tractor is before their time so they were not much help. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:14:05 AM by Larry Harsin

It might be a problem in a hose coupling. Otherwise there is probably something in the control valve or the interlock. Larry


Oliver 1650 Timing

IP: 70.199.2.72 Posted on March 17, 2014 at 06:56:47 PM by Brent Swanson

Do you happen to know what the procedure is to do valve clearances on a Oliver 1650 with a 283 diesel?

Re(1): Oliver 1650 Timing

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:11:52 AM by Larry Harsin

This procedure is outlined in your Operator's Manual. If you can't obtain the info, call me. 712-362-2966. Larry


Dying 1800

IP: 63.142.94.207 Posted on March 13, 2014 at 09:24:54 AM by Mike

1800c gas dies every time I let the clutch out. Doesn't matter if tractor is in neutral or in gear she dies every time. Tractor can be towed and everything rolls free with the clutch in.i am not a tractor mechanic and have no idea where to start.

Re(1): Dying 1800

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:10:14 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have a seized cluster on the main input shaft. I would contact a qualified mechanic to inestigate the problem. Larry


1750 hdra power slips

IP: 216.63.90.31 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 05:55:51 PM by leon

1750 2 spd hydra power slips equally in direct and low. Fluid is fine. Engine clutch seems ok, pedal free play normal, no hot pressue plate or the smell of a slipping dry clutch. How do I know for sure it is the Hydra-power and what would parts cost and where to find them to rebuild this box? THANKS

Re(1): 1750 hdra power slips

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:08:25 AM by Larry Harsin

It is very unusual for it to slip in direct and low together. You can do a pressure test on the unit to see if the direct drive clutch has good pressure. It should have at least 110 lbs. at operating temp. If the pressure is o.k., I would tend to think your engine clutch is at fault. Regardless, I think the engine and unit will have to be removed from the tractor to do the necessary repairs. As far as costs, it all depends on what is wrong and what it takes to fix it. Larry

Re(2): 1750 hdra power slips

IP: 216.63.90.31 Posted on March 21, 2014 at 01:38:50 PM by Leon

Thanks for the advice! I think it is a pressure problem. I took the dust cover off the bell housing and allowed it to slip. no heat smell or smoke out of the engine clutch. Sending it off to a repair shop Monday to be torn down.


super 66

IP: 172.56.10.225 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 11:21:50 AM by tim

What all components do I need to look for if I wanted to add hydraulics to a super 66.

Re(1): super 66

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:03:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You would need a complete hydraulic system. I have one if you need it. Call me. 712-362-2966. Larry


Super 77

IP: 66.103.188.93 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 11:08:20 AM by Bob Elliott

Oops, forgot to also ask about hydraulic oil leaking into the rear end. I know how to pull the pto and the pump but is repairing the pump something a normal person can do? I saw once somebody had a video on how to? Thanks Again, Bob

Re(1): Super 77

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 08:01:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I think The Oliver Gang has a video of this. Their website is: webmaster@olivergang.org Larry


Super 77

IP: 66.103.188.93 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 11:05:09 AM by Bob Elliott

Larry, I have a Super 77 with no ID tag, is there any stamping numbers that can be used to track down the serial number? I also just stumbled on a Kansas Turnpike Super 77 gas that has a hole rotted out in the exhaust manifold, is that a used part you might have, how about side curtains for the same? Thanks Bob

Re(1): Super 77

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 20, 2014 at 07:58:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I have a complete exhaust and intake manifold for $200. I think you can buy a new manifold from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681.About the serial number, that is going to be hard to do. Possibly you could call the museum and give them the engine serial number and they might be able to track it down. The curtains can be bought from Lynch. 937-456-6686. Emai; www.lynchfarmstractor parts.com -- Larry


Gas Leak

IP: 173.254.165.12 Posted on March 9, 2014 at 08:48:39 AM by Brian

First time tractor owner, looks like valve by carb is starting to leak after tractor is run on 1969 550. Leaks at good rate.

Re(1): Gas Leak

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 08:26:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take the fuel system apart and repair it as needed. Larry


engine swap

IP: 108.57.18.199 Posted on March 8, 2014 at 02:31:22 PM by Dave Ellis

I have a 77 gas oliver engine that was built for pulling it dynoed out at 69hp was wondering if it would bolt up to an 1800 gas tractor that i have with a bad engine in it?

Re(1): engine swap

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 08:24:37 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be done, but it won't fit exactly like an 88 motor would. Larry


3pt arms

IP: 206.251.6.46 Posted on March 6, 2014 at 07:41:24 PM by R & S Farms

Larry, we are trying to put 3PT arms on our 1900 4wd. What other models will fit this tractor? Also, what all needs put in to make this work? Thank you for your knowledge!

Re(1): 3pt arms

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 08:23:19 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to have a lower rock shaft with the draft sensing. Then, you will need the upper rock shaft and lifting cylinder with the servo valve. And the necessary control linkage. Larry


1655 fuel sending unit

IP: 75.100.10.168 Posted on March 6, 2014 at 11:46:03 AM by Travis

Hi Larry, is there a simple way to test whether my fuel gauge or sending unit is the problem. When the tank gets to about 2/3 full then the gauge will bounce back and forth between empty and fuel level. if the level is above 2/3 tank it will just read empty. Also, if it matters it is a diesel. Thanks for any help

Re(1): 1655 fuel sending unit

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 6, 2014 at 02:19:18 PM by Larry Harsin

From what you describe, I would replace the fuel sender unit in the tank. You can get a new one from AGCO. If you don't have AGCO, you can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 67.224.56.43 Posted on March 4, 2014 at 05:17:51 PM by joe

Do you know or what would you recommend torqueing the crankshaft pulley nut ?

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 09:25:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably 100 ft. lbs. would be adequate. Larry


restoring 42 Oliver 70

IP: 208.123.244.77 Posted on March 4, 2014 at 08:57:30 AM by Keith Gradert

I am currently trying to restore my great Grandpas 1942 Oliver 70. My dad and i are in the process of trying to get the motor to run. The tractor has sat in a barn under roof since the late 70's and has not run. I bought some engine additive that you apply to the top of the cylinders that is to help get the pistons moving freely. After following the direction of product we can finally turn the motor over, but their seems to be a spot in one of the cylinder walls that seems tight?? I don't know is their anything else that we are missing. we checked to make sure the lifters were all working. Is their something else that i could spray into top of pistons? I just hope that a ring is not stuck.

Re(1): restoring 42 Oliver 70

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 09:24:32 AM by Larry Harsin

It has to be your call as to what you do, but if it has rust in that one cylinder, that is probably true. If you have found this in one cylinder, you just as well go ahead and overhaul the engine. Larry


Hydro Oil change

IP: 70.194.7.164 Posted on March 3, 2014 at 02:50:15 PM by Jerry Shannon

Yes I have the owners manual and shop manual, and I consulted them first. I am going to be doing a fluid and filter change on the Hydr unit. Other than opening the bleed under the filter per the manual, it says to disconnect hoses and work cylnders in and out to clear out all the fluid. First, is this necessary, and Second, are the hoses being described the Aux outlets in the back? What cylnders are they referring to?

Re(1): Hydro Oil change

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 09:21:39 AM by Larry Harsin

It isn't really necessary. Yes. the hoses are the aux outlets in the back. They are referring to the remote cylinders, which in your instance probably aren't even attached to the tractor. Larry

Re(2): Hydro Oil change

IP: 108.206.221.2 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 01:55:34 PM by John H. Armstrong

One quick question. What kind of fluid are you using to refill the Hydra Power Unit?

Re(3): Hydro Oil change

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 08:01:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I use ATF. Larry

Re(4): Hydro Oil change

IP: 24.171.85.165 Posted on March 8, 2014 at 08:42:07 AM by John H. Armstrong

Mercon/dexron? That's what it looked like to me. Thanks for the help and guidance.

Re(5): Hydro Oil change IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 11, 2014 at 08:27:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Larry


Perkins engine

IP: 70.109.177.108 Posted on March 3, 2014 at 09:18:47 AM by Dean

I have a 1950T with a bad motor. I have located a good 354 perkins. Would the perkins fit the 1950T?

Re(1): Perkins engine

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on March 5, 2014 at 09:17:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Not unless you get a front frame from an 1850. Then, it would work. Larry


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