"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid-May through June 5, 2002 Archives



Oliver service technical manual

IP: 66.212.4.143 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 06:35:39 PM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I wanted to know if Oliver ever made a service technical manual for the 77, 88, & 770. I know I&T sold them, but I would like to get one Oliver made if possible or if they even made them at all. Thank you for all of your help. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver service technical manual

IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 10:17:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Charles City. They have very excellent service manuals. One whole set covers all the tractors from the Fleetlines up through the 3 digit tractors. Order them at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


Oliver 3 pt. hitches

IP: 136.160.130.198 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 03:40:20 PM by Clint

Larry and all, How many different Oliver 3 pt. hitches were made to be used on the Fleetline (66,77,88) series tractors? Anyone have any photos of each or where they can be seen? Also, thanks for the great web page and info. Clint

Re(1): Oliver 3 pt. hitches

IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 10:12:53 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 or 3 different ones. They are shown in the different parts books. Parts Books can be obtained from Charles City at hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


standard 66 seat question

IP: 209.209.93.104 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 12:54:48 AM by Luc

the seat seems to have lost it's spring, there are two round rubber things on each side of the seat stem, it seems the rubber has diconected from the metal plate, are parts available to fix this problem, right now I got a 2x4 holding up the seat. Thank for any help Luc

Re(1): standard 66 seat question

IP: 136.160.130.198 Posted on June 5, 2002 at 03:30:18 PM by Clint

Korves Oliver has them. I'd call them to make sure it'll fit on your 66. You might consider the bushing kit too. It helps keep the seat nice and tight. http://www.korvesoliver.com/ 618-939-6681


77 manifolds

IP: 207.177.63.129 Posted on June 4, 2002 at 05:15:18 PM by kris marshall

I have a 1952 77 row crop gas. It has bad intake and exhaust manifolds and no carb. are there any other manifolds that could be adapted to this engine? Thanks

Re(1): 77 manifolds

IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on June 4, 2002 at 08:15:04 PM by Larry Harsin

No, only 77's have the same manifold. I don't have a manifold or carb for it at this time. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. He may be able to fix you up. Larry


Oliver 70, 1946 Standard

IP: 160.36.200.151 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 01:49:41 PM by David C. Baker

Two questions:

(1) Will it hurt to run the '70 using an 8-volt battery? Points, condenser problem? What do you think of Gensesee's electronic ignition for a '70?

(2) My oil drain plug leaks badly, and I cannot figure out the construction of the bloomin' thing. There is a collar about 1.5 inches in diameter. It turns when the bolt is tightened, and the leak is around it and the oil pan--not the bolt that goes in. What gives?

PS: I am a college professor, not a mechanic--but I luv my Oliver 70. Grew up driving it.

Re(1): Oliver 70, 1946 Standard

IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 06:35:31 PM by Larry Harsin

No, it will work just fine. The points and condenser will be no problem. I have no opinion on the Gen. Electronic Ignition. It will probably be o.k. Originally that collar was welded (or crimped) onto the oil pan. You will have to take it off and take it to a welding shop and have it welded back on. Sandy likes the old 70's too. Larry


tractor stalls going uphill in high 2nd or 3rd

IP: 66.82.9.26 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 12:04:46 AM by Donald Illich

My tractor stalls when going uphill in high/2nd or 3rd gear. It begins to run rough, missing and cutting out until it completely stalls. BMC Long 1964 Mini tractor, about 26 hp. Seems like this has gotten worse and worse.

Re(1): tractor stalls going uphill in high 2nd or 3rd

IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 06:22:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your ignition points are getting bad. It might need a set of points. You could also check the wiring from the ignition switch - the connections. Larry


550

IP: 208.31.75.227 Posted on June 1, 2002 at 09:01:19 PM by Chad

I purchased a 550 today equipped with a Kelley loader. Everything seems to be in good running order except that I can't get the PTO clutch to disengage. Do I need to adjust it? The page in the manual telling how to adjust it is missing. How do I go about it if this is the problem? Thanks.

Re(1): 550

IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 1, 2002 at 09:26:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The clutch could possibly be out of adjustment. It could have enough dirt and oil build up from a leaky seal to cause it to act this way. Clean that out. It could need to be overhauled because of problems with slippage and it might be burned. Remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the housing and check and see what it looks like. It could have warped plates from being hot. If you determine that the clutch will have to be repaired. You will need a Shop Manual to work on that clutch, so order one from Charles City. hpocacc@fiai.net At the same time you order the Shop Manual, Mary Ann might be willing to make a copy of your missing page from your Operator's Manual and send that to you too. Larry


Oliver combines

IP: 208.141.201.13 Posted on June 1, 2002 at 12:51:27 AM by Jack

Anyone know where one can obtain a manual for Oliver combines. I need to know how to adjust the belts on this one of ours. Thank you

Re(1): Oliver combines

IP: 209.163.7.41 Posted on June 1, 2002 at 09:16:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net Tell her the model number of the Combine that you have. Larry


1955 lift arms

IP: 152.163.205.54 Posted on May 31, 2002 at 09:50:25 PM by Vernon Smith

Larry, Every time I start my 1955 the lift arms go all the way up to the top of their travel.It breaks the draft sensor pivot off occasionaly and I cant weld it back together to many more times! Ive had the top off and replaced the roll pin in the control lever and that worked for a while but it is doing it again and I thought it was the roll pin again but when I took it apart the pin is ok and the control lever is moving the valve but it still goes all the way up as soon as the tractor starts.I dont know what Im missing but I cant run the tractor like it is because you can hear the relief valve open from the pressure going to the lift arms.Any ideas????? Vernon Smith

Re(1): 1955 lift arms

IP: 209.163.7.20 Posted on June 1, 2002 at 06:06:31 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Service Manual for your 1955 from Charles City hpocacc@fiai.net. In it you will find the special section for the hydraulics. It will outline the procedure for adjusting that correctly. Larry


Cone dual wheel spacers

IP: 66.43.210.61 Posted on May 30, 2002 at 06:02:54 PM by Jim Meade

I'm looking for a set of used cone shaped dual wheel spacers for a 2255. Are they readily available, what do they weigh, and about what should they cost?

Re(1): Cone dual wheel spacers

IP: 209.163.7.12 Posted on May 30, 2002 at 09:15:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the answer to any of these questions!! :-) Talk to Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1355 Oliver

IP: 209.214.61.170 Posted on May 30, 2002 at 04:41:01 AM by Withers

I have come by a 1355 Oliver tractor tha has anit freeze in the oil pan. The oil is black and anti-freeze is green,and neither one is milky. The tractor was running when parked about two years ago. Where could it be coming from?

Re(1): 1355 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on May 30, 2002 at 07:04:22 AM by Larry Harsin

My first guess would be head gasket or a sleeve seal. Remove the oil pan and see if there is any antifreeze coming down along the edge of a sleeve. If there is, you'll have to tear the engine down. Larry

Re(2): 1355 Oliver

IP: 209.214.61.165 Posted on May 31, 2002 at 04:48:35 AM by Withers

Thanks for the starting point. I was told the tractor was running good when parked, if it is a sleeve seal would you rebuild engine or just replace the sleeve seals? If so would you replace the seal on the one leaking or replace the seals on all the sleeves?

Re(3): 1355 Oliver

IP: 152.163.205.54 Posted on May 31, 2002 at 09:37:59 PM by Vernon Smith

I dont know what kind of problems the rest of the country is having with head gaskets and sleeves but Ive changed a lot of head gaskets,sleeves and other cooling system parts latley due to the antifreeze turning to acid.Its easy enough to check for acid,most parts stores sell test strips to check it.Theres also coolant conditioner to add to the antifreeze to bring the ph down.Caterpillar sells a reliable additive that seems to last quite awhile.Some antifreeze already has the additive in it again Caterpillar sells it both ways with or with out the additive and its well worth the extra couple dollars!!!!! good luck, vernon smith

Re(3): 1355 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on May 31, 2002 at 11:06:52 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to determine how far to go by how much wear there is in the top area of the sleeves where the top ring runs. I would probably resleeve the engine because you are going to have all the work of doing it anyway. Larry

Re(4): 1355 Oliver

IP: 66.20.133.136 Posted on June 6, 2002 at 08:15:58 PM by Withers

Larry, My water leak is due to a cracked sleeve. Does the Fiat engine in the 1355 come with wet or dry sleeves?

Re(5): 1355 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on June 7, 2002 at 05:23:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is a wet sleeve, but you know, I'm not sure. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Then if you need a sleeve, he can probably get one for you. Larry


3 pt hitch cycling

IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on May 29, 2002 at 05:18:13 AM by Peter

I have a 550 Oliver. At an idle with the lift up it goes up a little than drops and continues to do that. It has the double feed back system. I have adjusted the turnbuckle as instructed in the manual, but there was no improvement. I noticed that the breather on the top of the transmission was loose. I took it off to inspect it. It was made up of a series of round cork washers. Is that the way it is supposed to be and could that cause any of my problems, or do you think that something is worn in the hydraulic system. If there is something worn, how difficult a repair job is it? Thanks

Re(1): 3 pt hitch cycling

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on May 29, 2002 at 08:16:48 PM by Larry Harsin

That is the way the breather is. The most likely cause of your problem is a worn "o" ring on the lift piston. As long as it doesn't adversly affect your operation, I would leave it alone. Otherwise, to repair it, I advise that you get a Shop Manual from Charles City and proceed from there. hpocacc@fiai.net. It's quite a job. Larry


60 rc parts

IP: 65.19.196.6 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 11:47:09 PM by chuck fischer

Hi, I'm looking for a hood and a rocker arm shaft assembly among other things. Also this tractor has an implement lift mechanism on it. Pressing a pedal causes a shaft to rotate 180 degrees. The arms always stop either pointing forward or rearward. Is that the way it's supposed to work? It isn't hydraulic is it? Is it intended for center mounted tools only? Thanks.

Re(1): 60 rc parts

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on May 29, 2002 at 08:10:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these parts at this time. Check with Doug Johnson at dougolpt@cnsinternet.com or Don Chandler at 207-935-3339. Yes, that is a mechanical power lift and that is the way it is supposed to work. It is not hydraulic. It was made to operate things on the back of the tractor. There was a rear mounted plow that was used on the back of the tractor at one time. Also, cultivators and planters etc. Larry


88 Vs. 880

IP: 64.33.161.3 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 09:36:28 PM by Greg

Larry, i am looking at buying either an 88 or an 880 diesel for pulling, and i was wondering what model is built better and stronger and what the stock horsepowers are on both of them, and if you know what kind of horse you can get out of them by turning up the pump, thanks alot. Greg

Re(1): 88 Vs. 880

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on May 29, 2002 at 07:58:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The 880 has the strongest engine, the strongest block and crank. At the rated RPMs that the tractor was designed for, the max hp was approx. 60. However, if you want to add rpm's and more fuel, you can gain hp. I do not set tractors up for tractor pulling so I am not knowledgable about doing it. If I were to build one up for pulling, I would check into using 3 and 7/8 in. pistons. But I have no specific reccomendations. Larry


Oliver 550 Steering

IP: 64.219.143.132 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 06:05:32 PM by James Varner

I have an old Oliver 550 and when you turn the steering wheel only one wheel turns, I was wondering if there is a kit out there for the steering box or do I have to purchase another steering box. can you please let me know thanks

Re(1): Oliver 550 Stering

IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 07:39:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 550 Stering

IP: 12.89.136.111 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 12:25:44 AM by Mike B

It sounds like you have broken teeth on one of the sector shafts. The easiest and quickest way to check without having to remove the cowl and steering box is to remove the sector shaft cover on the side opposite from the one that doesn't move. Loosen the gear lash screw on the cover so that you can "unhook" the cover from the shaft. Then peek inside. You'll know in a minute if the teeth are shot. Also feel around for bits of metal on the bottom of the steering box casting. Beware that you might make a little mess from gear oil that will leak out (if, in the rare case there is oil still in there) so have a rag handy. You can find those sector shafts used, and I think that Agco might actually still carry them. Be prepared as they are expensive. Tom at O'Brien is an excellent resource. Good luck.


1265 Oliver

IP: 64.118.133.210 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 01:20:05 PM by Derek Horn

Looking at buying a 1265 oliver W/oliver loader. What can you tell me about that model?

Re(1): 1265 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 07:37:41 PM by Larry Harsin

According to C.H Wendel in his book about Olivers, "In 1971 White Farm Equip. introduced the Oliver 1265. It was built until 1975. During the 1973-75 period this same model was built as the White 1270, but from 1971 to 1973 it was sold in Canada as the White 1265. White Farm Equip also marketed this same tractor as the Minneapolis-Moline G-350 tractor in 1971. The 1256 was a diesel-powered utility tractor, but it could also be purchased with the 4 wheel drive option." Larry


Corn Planter

IP: 63.109.51.195 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 11:49:46 AM by MJ Hettler

Do you know anything about Oliver corn planters? My Dad and I have a four row corn planter, I believe model 540, and when planting the other day, we had one of the disks come off of the fertilizer drop injector. We have the book on the planter, but it does not show how to disassemble the double bladed disks. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Re(1): Corn Planter

IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 07:27:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not familiar with that planter. Probably, the right hand opener would have a right-hand thread and the left-hand opener would have a left-hand thread. Larry


White 60

IP: 12.64.18.165 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 06:03:01 AM by Ron i recently found a white 60 which I believe is a oliver 1655 transmission with a cummons diesel engine. Can you tell me if this is a well engineered tractor and anything else. thanks ron

Re(1): White 60

IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 06:28:19 AM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, they are o.k. I havn't heard anything bad about them. Larry


Clunking 1465

IP: 198.81.16.46 Posted on May 27, 2002 at 08:35:00 AM by Melissa

Well Larry I got the Hydraulic's fixed and she runs great! However when I took her out for a spin I noticed some "CLUNKING" noise in the the rear of the transmission only when the tractor is traveling up or down hill. Any idea's of where to look first? Thanks again Larry! Mel

Re(1): Clunking 1465

IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on May 28, 2002 at 06:26:16 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't, but it doesn't sound good. Larry


Oliver 88 Diesel puller

IP: 64.33.161.3 Posted on May 26, 2002 at 10:27:20 PM by Jason M

Recently bought a 88 diesel for a pulling tractor and was wondering if anyone could help me with some tips to get some more hp out of it, was wondering if i could put a bigger pump on it or what i could do, any info would really be helpful, thanks guys!

Re(1): Oliver 88 Diesel puller

IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on May 27, 2002 at 06:28:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not into pulling. You could put bigger bore pistons in it. The pumps furnish enough fuel for added displacement. Hopefully someone else will answer this question for you. Larry


1250 & super 55

IP: 152.163.213.57 Posted on May 25, 2002 at 10:03:09 PM by Terry chancellor

Can you tell me if 1250 will handle a 6' brush hog or maybe will a super 55, the 1250 is a diesel while th 55 is a gas

Re(1): 1250 & super 55

IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on May 26, 2002 at 07:22:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe they will both work O.K. I think the S55 might have a little bit more power. Larry

Re(2): 1250 & super 55

IP: 152.163.213.48 Posted on May 26, 2002 at 04:17:44 PM by Terry Chancellor

an you tell me what the horsepower on the 1250 dieel is and what the hp is on the s55, i think it is a gas

Re(3): 1250 & super 55

IP: 209.163.7.46 Posted on May 26, 2002 at 06:01:29 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 D is 38 hp. The S55 G is about 35 hp. Larry


Chain for 1850 diesel

IP: 205.188.198.172 Posted on May 25, 2002 at 05:29:00 PM by Edwin Thurman

We have an 1850 with perkins diesel engine. There is a roller chain type coupling between the clutch and the hydro-shift unit. We have had trouble with this chain getting loose and coming off. Can anyone tell me where to get a new chain and any other pointers on how to prevent problems with it.

Re(1): Chain for 1850 diesel

IP: 63.114.86.162 Posted on May 25, 2002 at 06:10:13 PM by Shane

your agco dealer will have the chain coupler.i think there is an adjustment bolt under the hydra power to square the hydra power to the tranny.this will keep it from jumping ship.

Re(2): Chain for 1850 diesel

IP: 209.163.7.42 Posted on May 25, 2002 at 07:56:18 PM by Larry Harsin

On the connector link, use a long cotter to go through both pins of the connector link. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co.Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Dirty oil

IP: 204.181.84.242 Posted on May 22, 2002 at 08:06:45 PM by Francis L

Larry, I have a oliver 1955 that this year for some reason the oil has turned to almost like syrup. It has good power, but I'am wondering if the motor is going.Your web site is great. Thanks for any answer you can give me.

Re(1): Dirty oil

IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on May 24, 2002 at 09:47:15 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I'd have an oil analysis done by my oil supplier. That will give you information so you can make a more intelligent decision. Larry


Removing PTO shaft

IP: 216.234.100.180 Posted on May 22, 2002 at 04:52:51 PM by Keddano

I want to remove the PTO shaft and unit off my 77 to lighten it up for only Pull'in.If you remove this set-up,is there any bearing that needs to be added to support something? Thanks Dan

Re(1): Removing PTO shaft

IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on May 24, 2002 at 09:44:07 PM by Larry Hasrsin

No. Just pull the whole complete thing out of the tractor and you won't have to worry about it. Larry


How much gallons of oil pumped per minute on a 1950

IP: 216.16.78.66 Posted on May 21, 2002 at 08:47:34 PM by Tony

Hello. Me and my dad are running a International 400 planter. We dont like the hydraulic pump that you are supposed to put on the pto, so we are going to run it on the hydraulics. We would like to know how much gallons of oil an Oliver 1950 can pump per minute, in order to know if we are going to be able to run it with the hydraulics. Hope we can get an answer on this real soon. Thanks in advance. Tony

Re(1): How much gallons of oil pumped per minute on a 1950

IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on May 24, 2002 at 09:42:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Sorry to be slow with answering, Sandy has been in the hospital. I think it will run 12 - 15 gal. per minute. Larry


1946 RC 70 Engine paint

IP: 68.83.128.111 Posted on May 21, 2002 at 01:45:20 PM by Dan S

Besides the starter and the generator was anything else on the engine originally painted black or a color other than green.(such as the fan blade) I would like to get this right the first time around. Thanks, Dan

Re(1): 1946 RC 70 Engine paint

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on May 21, 2002 at 08:31:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the starter and generator being black is appropriate. Fan blade was green as far as I know. Everything else was green as far as I know. -- Larry

Re(1): 1946 RC 70 Engine paint

IP: 160.36.200.151 Posted on June 3, 2002 at 01:53:42 PM by David C. Baker

My 1946 Oliver 70 Standard is all green under the hood skirts--everything is green but the black plastic cover to the distributor and the coil. Always wuz. Always will be. Oh, there is a brass tag with the serial no.!


Zenith Carb

IP: 65.209.153.225 Posted on May 20, 2002 at 02:26:52 PM by Rich

Hi Larry I have a Zenith carb on my S-77, and I am having problems getting it to idle. I bought the motor in pieces, so I don't know if it ever idled correctly. I rebuilt the card, new gaskets, jets etc. and it runs fine at high idle and under load, at idle I have to screw the idle adjustment down tight, and keep the RPM's up to keep it running. I suspect that the idle circuit is plugged or that I have a vacum leak. Does the Zenith idle circuit work similar to the Marvel Schebler? Does turning the idle screw in increase fuel? Any other suggestions? Thanks Rich

Re(1): Zenith Carb

IP: 209.163.7.54 Posted on May 20, 2002 at 09:38:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Turning the idle mixture screw tends to make the mixture richer for idle. The problem could be a plugged circuit in the idle system. It could be a worn throttle shaft or it could be a air leak on the intake manifold or it could be leakage on the intake valve guides. (They get worn). I believe they are similar. You could try it with another carb to help you diagnose the problem. Larry

Re(2): Zenith Carb

IP: 65.209.153.225 Posted on May 21, 2002 at 06:26:12 AM by Rich

Thanks Larry Does turning the screw in make the mixture rich? I have to turn the screw all the way in to keep the tractor running.

Re(3): Zenith Carb

IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on May 24, 2002 at 09:39:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Turning the idle screw in makes the mixture richer. Larry


Oliver 1465

IP: 172.190.65.218 Posted on May 20, 2002 at 10:45:26 AM by Melissa

Larry, There is a small line that's connected to the intake manifold that is disconnected. We've looked in our books and don't know what this if for or where it goes? Is this part of a cold starting system?

Re(1): Oliver 1465

IP: 209.163.7.54 Posted on May 20, 2002 at 09:32:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is what it is. I'm not up much on those Fiats. Maybe you should get a Service Manual from Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


oliver 1450

IP: 198.26.122.12 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 01:50:15 PM by lyle

I just pickup this tractor at a auction. I found that the three point and the powersteering is not working good.But,I have hydra. to the remote connection.

Re(1): oliver 1450

IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 04:55:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I'd do is change the oil and change the filter. Some of those Fiats you just clean the filter instead of changing it. You need to get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


Oliver 70

IP: 210.107.246.174 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 01:50:12 AM by John Bondy

Larry; I would like to find farmers who have driven Oliver 70's in the field before they are all gone. I would love to interview them or mail questions for a book I am compiling about the Oliver 70. I am too young to remember the Oliver in its original field. We have a very nice original 1938 70. I am also looking for pictures of Oliver 70's working in the field. Thanks John Bondy

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 07:36:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I was raised on 70's but I don't have the time to sit and write stories about them. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 216.234.100.217 Posted on May 23, 2002 at 09:43:58 PM by Keddano

Try posting on www.ytmag.com, there you might get some guys. Dan


1800a transmission

IP: 205.188.197.21 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 05:18:54 PM by nat

the i&t manual talks about the filter line from the front mounted transmission lube pump. is there a filter for this system and where is it located. i cant find it in the manual anywhere. thanks for the help.

Re(1): 1800a transmission

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 07:34:01 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are talking about is an improvement package that was put on some of the tractors. If you don't have a filter, your tractor does not have the improvement package. I don't know if anything is available any more. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and see if they are available 800-320-6224. Larry


Super 88 Gemmler Pwr Steering

IP: 152.163.205.71 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 10:58:55 AM by Will Pieper

I have a Pwr steering leak on the rack and pinoin under the radiator. I removed the unit and resealed it, but it still leaks on the left side out of the small cap on the end of the unit. I installed a new O-ring, but it still leaks. The cap seems loose and doesn't really fit tight in the hole. Is there anything that I can do to seal it? Thanks for any help you can give me!

Re(1): Super 88 Gemmler Pwr Steering

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 07:29:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I would try some kind of an epoxy type sealer like "Loc-tite". Also you can go to NAPA and they have an epoxy type material that is used for fuel tanks. That might do it for you. Larry

Re(2): Super 88 Gemmler Pwr Steering

IP: 152.163.201.191 Posted on May 24, 2002 at 07:24:16 PM by Will Pieper

I got it to seal!! With a little help from another fellow we were able to get it. I had tried sealer and that still didn't work. I also straightened out the cap as best i could as it was a little bent, and than used a smaller dia seal so the cap would fit in deeper in the hole. Then the fellow that was helping me noticed the big end cap was warped, a file soon took care of the high spots and the rest is history. Also i now have a new aquaintence that has taught me more about Oliver tractors.(I grew up with Deere) Old tractors sure bring different people together, Sure hope we never run out of both. Will


tie rod ends

IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 09:15:18 AM by Greg Davis

Larry, I have a wide front end off of an 880 on my 88. Where can I get replacement tie rod ends? Can an auto parts store match up some automotive tie rod ends or do you know the numbers of any that work? Or, can I still get them from AGCO? I've heard you can get the inside ones but not the outside ones. Thanks, Greg Davis

Re(1): tie rod ends

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 07:27:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


oliver 83 picker

IP: 65.161.160.192 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 07:56:40 AM by Darrel

larry i'm trying to sell my oliver 73h corn picker the guy wanting it wants a 83 because he was told it has deck plates otherwise called stripper bars, and stripper rolls, like a modern combine head has for harvesting popcorn. does the 73picker have this? thanks Darrel

Re(1): oliver 83 picker

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on May 19, 2002 at 07:25:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Here is a quote from the book "Oliver Hart-Parr" by C.H. Wendel: "Oliver announced the Model 83 corn picker in 1966, but it does not appear that full-fledged production began until 1967. Initially the Model 83 was built with an 8 roll husking bed but in 1968 it was also offered with a 12 roll bed. Production of the Model 83 series ended in 1976. The husking and shelling units were interchangeable and the Model 83 could also be furnished to accommodate narrow or wide rows. Improvments of this machine over previous versions also included blade-type and snapping units, a feeding beater and an overhead raddle." Larry


354 perkins needed

IP: 208.10.193.86 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 09:50:42 PM by mike

looking for a good 354 perkins to put in a 1850 i think this would be simpler if it came from a 1850,2-85 or 2-105 i'm not looking for somthing that needs work don't mean to sound rude but i don't have the time thanks

Re(1): 354 perkins needed

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 05:41:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 354 perkins needed

IP: 208.10.124.216 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 11:32:27 AM by Larry from Maryland

The best fit seems to be an engine from an old massy 510 combine.The white 2-85 and 2-105 have completely different looking engines that have much different water pumps and gasket sets from no other 354 perkins will fit.I have both tractors.


77 transmission

IP: 12.89.0.193 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 06:42:35 PM by John

Larry, put a ring and pinion in my 53 77. whenever the trans. is in the low side, it whines REAL LOUD. the high side is fine. this even happens in the low side neutral. put all new bearings in it. any idea what I could have done??? Thanks in advance, John...

Re(1): 77 transmission

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 05:39:24 AM by Larry Harsin

There must be a mis match on the sliding gear on the input shaft where it meshes with the counter shaft gear in low range. Larry


28-44

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 01:29:19 PM by Jason

Hello, I am looking for some reproduction fenders for my 1930 28-44. I seen an ad for them in the HPOCA publication a year or two ago. I can't find the one I had with their name in it. I thought you might know of them or someone who has a good used set. Thanks for all your help, and this great website.

Re(1): 28-44

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 05:36:51 AM by Larry Harsin Contact Clay Drenth at 712-284-1725. Larry

Re(2): 28-44

IP: 139.78.253.202 Posted on May 17, 2002 at 08:54:47 AM by Jason

Thanks for all your help, I will give him a call.


Wheel color

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 15, 2002 at 10:41:55 PM by Larry Kruse

What was the color of the rims? Not the wheel dish on Oliver Super 55's. I know the '54 - 56 had green wheel dishes and later ones had red wheels. I need to repaint the rims.

Re(1): Wheel color

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 07:14:27 AM by Larry Harsin

The rim will be the same color as the wheel dish. Larry


Governor Control Ball Joint for an Oliver 770

IP: 66.212.4.140 Posted on May 15, 2002 at 09:37:16 PM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I would like to know if it is still possible to get the governor control ball joint for this tractor or if it is possible to make one. It seems worn and has a lot of play in it. The engine won't speed up until the slack is taken out of it. Thank you very much for your help.

Re(1): Governor Control Ball Joint for an Oliver 770

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 07:12:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I'll check and see if I have one. Larry


Super55 Steering box

IP: 12.236.236.137 Posted on May 15, 2002 at 08:25:52 PM by Bob

I am in need of a steering box, or preferably power steering box with all of the hoses for a Oliver super 55. Bob Cervenka

Re(1): Super55 Steering box

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 07:11:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(1): Super55 Steering box

IP: 12.89.137.16 Posted on May 20, 2002 at 03:22:21 PM by Mike B

Bob, Lots of luck, those set ups are extremely difficult to find - and they are never cheap. Your timing might be good however as O'Brien Implements just got in a load of old Supers and 550s. The early model 550 (up to about 1961) will directly cross. If you strike out, I may have a second PS unit (it goes between the steering column and steering box)available in a month or so. The hoses are the easy part. Napa can make them up to order. The high pressure size is 1/4", low pressure is 3/8". Also note that if you do find the set up check to see that all of the sector gear teeth in the box are intact. The PS unit put too much torque on the box and sometimes snapped the teeth at the end of the stroke on hard turns. That's why Oliver changed to a piston assist setup later on. Tom at O'Brien is an excellent person to work with.


super77 vs 77

IP: 216.234.124.153 Posted on May 15, 2002 at 08:09:30 PM by keddano

Larry,In a earlier post, you stated("The 77 came with a 3 and 5/16 bore and a 3 and 3/4 stroke. The S77 had a 3 and a half inch bore and stroke.")Did you misquote yourself?I pulled the head and the tractor has a 3 5/16 bore.If I read you right the 77 has a 1/4 longer stroke on the crank then the S77.If this is the case,Great! a set of m&w pistons should put it over a stock S77.Also did the S77 have a bigger cam? Also with the stock head & pistons,how much can I machine of the head safely? Larry,Thanks so much for you website and your information. Your the best on the web,Dan

Re(1): RE:super77 vs 77

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on May 16, 2002 at 07:08:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I mis spoke there. The stroke on the S77 is 3 and 3/4 (both the same). I think the cams are pretty much identical. I don't think you want to do much machining on that. See what your machinist has to say about it. Larry


1937 OLIVER HART PARR

IP: 206.26.221.116 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 09:38:46 AM by JOE KENNEDY

I HAVE AN OLIVER HART PARR 1937, IT IS IN SHOP BEING REBUILT, THE MECHANIC SAID I NEED ALL NEW VALVES, SAID EXHAUST IS 3/8 STEM, INTAKE 5/16 STEM, NO ROTO CAPS, NEED FULL SET OF VALVE GUIDES, I HAVE DONE SOME RESEARCH, AND HAVE FOUND THE VALVES RUN ABOUT 30 TO 45 DOLLARS A VALVE, THE GUIDES ARE 15 A GUIDE, I FEEL IT WOULD MAYBE BE BETTER TO GET REBUILD HEAD, COULD YOU HELP ME OUT IN FINDING ONE? THANK YOU JOE KENNEDY

Re(1): 1937 OLIVER HART PARR

IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 11:22:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I guess we got this answered on the phone today. Talk to you later. Larry


1650 gas

IP: 155.91.6.71 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 06:21:17 AM by Parker M., Pa.

Larry, I have a 1650 gas and It acts like it is out of gas when the gauge and tank are about half empty. I fill it back up and it runs fine. I'm thinking it must be a dirty tank? What do you think and what is the best way to clean it? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 06:44:17 AM by Larry Harsin

In extreme cases, take the tank off and really work it over. You may have to take a power washer and clean it. Larry


88 Disk Brake Job

IP: 66.84.174.180 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:36:29 PM by Brian

Larry--I'm working on my 88 disk brakes and am having a heck of a time getting the bull pinion extension through the springs on the disk actuating assembly. I went through and made sure the balls and plates were okay, and installed the three new retaining springs. Is there a trick to getting the splined extension through the springs so that they ride in the relief between the splines? Thanks in advance, Brian.

Re(1): 88 Disk Brake Job

IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:54:54 PM by Larry Harsin Those are very difficult! I sympathize with you. You just have to keep working to get it done. They are awful. Larry

Re(2): 88 Disk Brake Job

IP: 192.43.65.245 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 07:20:11 AM by Brian

Larry-- Is it easier to assemble the bull pinion extension to the rear end first and then put the actuating assembly on, or put the extension throught the assembly before it is bolted to the rear end? Thanks.

Re(3): 88 Disk Brake Job

IP: 66.84.174.88 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 08:26:57 PM by Brian

Larry-- I finally got the assembly over the pinion extension. I put the extension in the vise and wiggled the springs and assembly over it. The brakes work great. Thanks for the help. Brian.


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