Super 77 power buster

IP: 75.121.135.77 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 11:06:57 PM by Scott

I have the engine out of my super 77 replacing the engine clutch, how do I know if the power booster clutch needs replaced

Re(1): super 77 power buster

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 31, 2011 at 07:28:38 AM by Larry Harsin

If it was working normally before your work, it will probably work when you get the engine back in. Larry

Oliver 1550 gas

IP: 173.191.11.238 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 03:02:55 PM by D.W.

I was mowing hay this morning and was lifting the mower up and the 3 point hitch and the mower lifted all the way up and would not release. The arms will not come down. I can put the mower down but it will come right back up because the arms on the 3-point hitch is up. It seems it is locked in place. Any ideas?

Re(1): Oliver 1550 gas

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 31, 2011 at 07:26:40 AM by Larry Harsin

There may be something that broke on your internal or external linkage, You could screw the by-pass bolt out 3 or 4 turns, so that you could raise and lower the mower. Larry

oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 206.158.38.25 Posted on May 29, 2011 at 08:13:51 PM by brian

How do I time the injection pump with the crank...cannot find any marks on gear for the pump.

Re(1): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 06:00:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the little timing window off the side of the pump. Turn the crank by hand until the 2 lines line up on the pump. Then look through the timing hole at the flywheel to find the degrees. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 206.158.38.25 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 06:20:33 PM by brian

re: timing hole at flywheel what to do about the degrees? dont we use #1 tdc and align timing marks on front pully?

Re(3): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 31, 2011 at 07:23:13 AM by Larry Harsin

There are no marks on the front pulley. The tractors had a timing tape that has worn off. You can get a new timing tape at your AGCO Dealers, or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(4): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 63.163.108.30 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 08:37:15 AM by brian

i have on the flywheel "int""tdc""exh" & 2 lines close together. I put the engine on tdc and lined up the pump marks. the engine fires and labors billowing black smoke. what next?

Re(5): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 98.80.129.189 Posted on June 6, 2011 at 10:33:25 PM by Cleon Couey

Shouldn't that tractor be timed to 2*ATDC? If so Brian just turn flywheel about a 1/4" past TDC,realign the pump marks and see what happens. I had almost the same problem and timing was only off about 1/8". Hope this helps.

Re(6): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 75.104.169.176 Posted on June 7, 2011 at 07:28:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Brian, You should have the flywheel a 1/4" in front of the flywheel instead of past it. It tells you all of this in your Operator's Manual. Everyone should have an Operator's Manual for their tractor. If you don't have one, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City, IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(7): oliver 1550 injection timing

IP: 63.163.108.30 Posted on June 9, 2011 at 05:36:48 PM by brian

larry do you mean 1/4 before tdc?? thanks for your help. im doin this for a buddy so iwill see if he has a manual. thanks again

oliver parts

IP: 99.241.102.112 Posted on May 29, 2011 at 02:57:26 PM by Richard W.

Hi, does anyone have a list of new or used Oliver parts dealers east of the Mississippi and north of the southern borders of Tennessee and North Carolina. My father is traveling around that area on vacation and you like to find some parts for his Super 55. Thanks

Re(1): oliver parts

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 05:58:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a list. You could check with Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934 or Korves Oliver 618-939-6681 in Red Bud IL. Ag Parts First in Wooster OH 866-264-9720. Larry

water in oil 1650 diesel

IP: 71.1.107.54 Posted on May 28, 2011 at 09:54:16 PM by Justin Gravitt

I bought a 1650 diesel that had been sitting outside for 4 years the oil looked good until I got the tractor running and mixed all the water that was on the bottom of the pan. I have changed the oil and it seems that the new oil is getting milky I ran tractor untill warm and level of coolant seems the same how many times should i change the oil untill i look for another problem

Re(1): water in oil 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 29, 2011 at 07:45:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd change the oil at least one more time and watch it. Larry

Re(2): water in oil 1650 diesel

IP: 69.242.139.229 Posted on May 29, 2011 at 10:39:08 AM by justin gravitt

Also the tractor runs rough I have new filters in it. Can I clean out the energy cells, early model tractor, I have sea foam in the fuel will that be good enough. Thanks for your help.

Re(3): water in oil 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on May 30, 2011 at 05:53:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will be o.k. to clean out the energy cells and see if that helps. The Sea Foam should be o.k. Larry

Starter wiring super 55

IP: 69.204.135.192 Posted on May 27, 2011 at 07:54:35 PM by Jeremy

I've replaced the battery and alternator on my Super 55, (Converted to 12 volt) When I turn the key the starter/solenoid just buzzes. Should the solenoid be attached to the negative or positive battery terminal? Thank you.

Re(1): Starter wiring super 55

IP: 75.104.161.143 Posted on May 27, 2011 at 09:48:07 PM by Larry Harsin

An alternator means negative ground. So, the positive post on the battery should be connected to the solinoid on the starter. Larry

Looking for special tool

IP: 69.19.14.41 Posted on May 26, 2011 at 10:46:30 AM by Kevin

Larry - removing the PTO from my Super 55. I am looking for a OTC ED-3434 (Owatonna) Spanner Wrench. Do you know anyone who sells these? I called OTC directly, they didn't have a clue as to what I was talking about. Seems someone could have a nice little side busines renting these old/rare tools!

Re(1): Looking for special tool

IP: 75.104.161.143 Posted on May 27, 2011 at 06:43:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't even have one of those. You can use a punch or an air chisel to get in there to work on that. Larry

Re(1): Looking for special tool

IP: 98.168.213.200 Posted on May 27, 2011 at 06:57:57 PM by Larry K

If it is the one I am thinking about, I made my own with a piece of pipe about 1.5 to 2" in diameter and I welded 4 pieces of metal to make the ears to fit into the nut. It worked very well. It just takes some time to measure and find a pipe of the proper diameter.

1850 aux drive

IP: 69.168.144.144 Posted on May 25, 2011 at 09:13:55 PM by Todd D

Does the whole front cover have to come off the engine on a 1850 Perkins too get the worm gear/bronze injection pump gear off?

Re(1): 1850 aux drive

IP: 75.104.161.143 Posted on May 26, 2011 at 06:54:21 AM by Larry Harsin

According to the Shop Manual, you have to remove the whole front cover and the auxillary drive shaft will have to be moved. Larry

S88 diesel

IP: 209.188.78.227 Posted on May 24, 2011 at 01:28:00 PM by David Dahl

We took the head gasket off cause it was leaking, to find out the there are small cracks on the top that go from the outside of the block to the head bolt holes, a guy told us to put copper gasket maker on the gasket, but it didn't help, also when we tighten the head bolts two of them didnt tighten up. do you have and tips on what we should do or try, thanks

Re(1): S88 diesel

IP: 75.105.44.149 Posted on May 24, 2011 at 11:39:05 PM by Larry Harsin

If the block is cracked and you can't tighten the head bolts, the block is going to have to be replaced. Larry

1650 shift rail replacement

IP: 207.190.123.26 Posted on May 23, 2011 at 02:07:41 PM by kurt

Hi, the left side shift rail on my oliver 1650 broke. How far do I need to tear the tractor down to replace this rail? I have heard that if I unbolt the motor and slide it ahead a foot I can access a panel by the over under to slide the rail assembly out. Is that true? is there a better easier way?

Re(1): 1650 shift rail replacement

IP: 75.105.44.149 Posted on May 23, 2011 at 08:08:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it would be easier to lift the engine out of the frame than it would be to slide the engine forward a foot. I'd just lift the engine out so it is out of the way and you have room to work. Larry

Follow up ?

IP: 67.139.31.1 Posted on May 25, 2011 at 06:16:56 PM by kurt

Is that correct way to do it then? Do you have to take the complete top off of the floor board area? I can get my arm in through the shift lever access area to unbolt the forks, then does it just slide out the front?

Re(1): Follow up ?

IP: 75.104.169.176 Posted on June 9, 2011 at 06:26:02 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the complete floor boards and take the hydraulic unit off. Larry

1655 Carb

IP: 173.243.249.236 Posted on May 23, 2011 at 01:54:48 PM by Clay Jones

My 1973 Oliver 1655 has a Zenith carb on it, but model # tag is gone. Any idea what Zenith model I need to buy a kit for? Thanks!

Re(1): 1655 Carb

IP: 75.105.44.149 Posted on May 23, 2011 at 08:05:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have a Marvel Schebler carb on it. If so, it is a TSX807. I've never seen a Zenith on a 1655. If it is a Zenith, it is probably the same as an 880 uses. The number for that would be 12259. Larry

1750

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 22, 2011 at 02:53:37 AM by Neal Torneten

It appears that I have hydralic fluid leaking into the transmission and coming out the gear shift boot. I have 1700 psi at the hose coupler in the rear. I noticed that when I went to uncouple the hose I couldn't relieve the pressure, even when the tractor was off. Would this indicate a bad pump or some other problem? If it would be some other problem do you have any suggestions?

Re(1): 1750

IP: 75.105.44.149 Posted on May 22, 2011 at 09:30:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The pressure build up is normal. The best thing to do to make it work with couplers is to buy the best Pioneer couplers. The most common cause of your problem, with oil getting into the transmission, is the seal on the draft control rod that goes from the transmission into the hydraulic system. It is located in the area of the left hand bull gear, just above the draft control spring. Larry

super 99

IP: 74.15.247.108 Posted on May 20, 2011 at 09:11:27 PM by neil craig

My front wheel pivot bearings were wore out on my Super 99, so I removed spindle carriers and am renewing spindle bearings too. I can`t get new oil seals, if I reuse old ones can I fill spindle carrier with grease instead of the recommended oil? Tractor goes in a few pulls and rides only.

Re(1): super 99

IP: 69.72.27.12 Posted on May 22, 2011 at 06:31:53 AM by Larry from MD

Yes the recomendation was changed to grease years after the manuels were made

Re(2): super 99

IP: 75.105.44.149 Posted on May 22, 2011 at 09:27:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use John Deere corn head grease or light gun grease. Larry

Oliver 88 Final drive oil

IP: 76.75.25.233 Posted on May 20, 2011 at 09:15:40 AM by Gary Kindopp

What type of oil is in the transmission & final on a 1954 Oliver 88 Diesel Row Crop tractor? And what quantity?

Re(1): Oliver 88 Final drive oil

IP: 75.104.168.4 Posted on May 20, 2011 at 01:23:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It holds about 5 gallon of SAE 90 transmission oil. Larry

550 oliver alternator conversion

IP: 96.43.54.68 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 08:57:05 PM by doug pigmon

Do you know of anyone that makes a bracket to convert from generator to alternator on a 550

Re(1): 550 oliver alternator conversion

IP: 75.104.168.92 Posted on May 17, 2011 at 07:20:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't really know. Try Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Super 55 Charging System

IP: 74.83.93.78 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 04:42:09 PM by Gary Ostendorf

Mt Harsin, Thank you for the help. I followed your instructions, the generator was charging, the voltage regulator had failed. We're charging just fine again

Re(1): Super 55 Charging System

IP: 75.104.168.92 Posted on May 17, 2011 at 07:21:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad I was able to help and that you got it fixed. Larry

PTO Clutch Removal

IP: 69.19.14.27 Posted on May 15, 2011 at 05:21:41 PM by Kevin

Larry, I am replacing clutch, pressure plate on my Super 55. With tractor Z-split, I noticed trans oil leaking into clutch housing. While split, I thought I "simply" replace oil seals on the upper PTO Drive Pinion shaft and the lower PTO drive shaft. (My good friend Tom of O'Briens' is helping with parts). Here is where I am stuck. I cannot figure how to remove the clutch hub from the PTO Drive Shaft. I got the PTO clutch spider removed. I then, removed the 2 set screws which (I thought) locked the hub to the PTO drive shaft. My shop manual says "... by pulling it forward and free..." No way. I didn't want to pull/break anything. What do you think? Gear Puller? Do I need to do a 'center split' and attack from the rear? Thanks. Kevin

Re(1): PTO Clutch Removal

IP: 75.104.169.60 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 06:18:15 AM by L

The hub should come off after removal of the set screws. In order to remove the drum, there is a spanner nut on the inside of the drum, that has to be removed. Then it will come out. Larry

Re(2): PTO Clutch Removal

IP: 38.105.103.98 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 12:10:14 PM by Kevin

Larry - I may be there, and may need to simply pull harder. Would you double-check the steps I took? My book is pretty vague in this area. 1) Removed the grease tube & assembly from 'spider'. 2) Removed spanner nut (bit of a challenge w/o a wrench!) 3) Removed spider assembly 4) Removed probably 6-8 thin gears from inside of the drum. 5) Removed 2 set screws from hub. Now, when I look inside, I see the outer drum. Inside the drum is the hub which has 3 keys. The Hub fits onto the PTO Shaft. (I want to make sure 'my' hub is 'your' hub, and not drum.) So far, so good? QUESTION: 2 set screws... one was on top of the other, sharing the same hole... a locking set-up. Perhaps there is another set-screw on the backside of the Drum? Or is there a 2nd set screw on the hub? I suspect that after 55 years, I should not expect the hub or drum to simply/easily slide off. I'll try a little persuasion with gear pullers.

Re(3): PTO Clutch Removal

IP: 75.104.168.92 Posted on May 17, 2011 at 07:17:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Those 2 set screws should take care of it so that the drive hub should come out of there (5). Then, you have to take the drum out. After you get the drive hub out, you will see the spanner nut that holds the drum on. Larry

Re(4): PTO Clutch Removal

IP: 69.19.14.38 Posted on May 19, 2011 at 07:56:28 PM by Kevin

Got it! I think there was so much oil in there, it was causing a vacum. Thanks Larry - you 'da man! Your help is so much appreciated.

1974, model 1955

IP: 184.100.173.192 Posted on May 14, 2011 at 09:17:45 PM by e firestone

before warmup we had 45 lbs oil pressure.. after warmup and working we had 32-35 lbs. after a couple hours running at load at 1700 rpm with an idle speed of 600 rpm we had 20 lbs oil pressure.. are we okay yet or do we need to start thinking of new bearings..

Re(1): 1974, model 1955

IP: 75.104.169.60 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 06:14:03 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You are not o.k. You should take the oil pan off and check the bearings. Larry

Super 55 Charging System

IP: 74.83.93.78 Posted on May 14, 2011 at 07:07:03 PM by Gary Ostendorf

Hi Larry, I'm having a little trouble with my charging system. The tractor is a 1958 with a 12 volt system. The previous owner changed it to negative ground & it did charge properly when I purchased it. It is no longer charging. How can I determine if the problem is the generator or the regulator? Can you also advise me as to how I can polarize the generator? Thanks Gary

Re(1): Super 55 Charging System

IP: 75.104.169.60 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 06:12:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Take a jumper wire and go from the ground to the amature post, when the tractor is running. If it doesn't arc, it isn't charging. To polarize the generator, you attach a jumper wire to the battery post on the regulator. Then, momentarily touch the armature post on the generator. This should polarize it. Larry

1938 oliver 70

IP: 67.239.234.148 Posted on May 14, 2011 at 07:40:44 AM by kelvin olinger

I have a 1938 oliver 70 with a single front tire. Did oliver make this tractor with a single front tire?? I can't seem to locate any info.

Re(1): 1938 oliver 70

IP: 75.104.169.60 Posted on May 16, 2011 at 06:03:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. They built 70's with single front wheels. Larry

oliver 1550

IP: 50.47.254.130 Posted on May 14, 2011 at 02:22:14 AM by Gary

Did any of the early oliver 1550 tractors come with the 216ci engine?

Re(1): oliver 1550

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 14, 2011 at 07:33:03 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They were all the same. 232ci with 3 5/8" piston. The 216ci was used on the 770. Larry

1650 gas hydraulic loader don't hold

IP: 209.206.209.144 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 12:46:59 PM by Jared

I'm new to owning a oliver, i just bought a 1968 olviver 1650 gas, the loader raises and lowers fine, however after putting a load in it, as soon as i raise it, it will start to lower slowly but will completly lower in a matter of a minute or two. Also it does not seem to very powerful had a hard time tilting back 4 railroad ties, it did lift them, i replaced the hyd. filter, checked the fluid, i see no visual signs of loader cyclinders leaking, before i knew of the problem, i did change 2 of the rear hyd. ports because they had slow leaks, the buckets does plug into them. 3pt does lower and raise, however it's either up or down no in between, not sure if thats normal on an oliver, after studying my shop manual, i think it may be a thermal valve or a relief valve, whats ur thoughts, can a modest mechanic like me chnge them easy? where do i get parts? thanks other than this i really like this tractor.

Re(1): 1650 gas hydraulic loader don't hold

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 08:00:28 PM by Larry Harsin

As I told you earlier, I would switch the hoses for the bucket cylinder and see if that makes a difference. Also, if you don't like the way the loader works, you can go to a power beyond port and utilize a separate 2 spool valve. I think your loader would act better if you would do this. It would work smoother and probably a bit faster. You could have a bad thermal relief valve. The first thing I would do is check the operating pressure. Just plug a pressure gauge in to one of the hydraulic couplers. You want it to have 1800 - 2000 lbs. pressure. Go to a Farm Supply store and get an oil pressure gauge that will measure at least 3000 lbs. Plug it into where your hydraulic cylinder plugs in and it should show you the pressure. If you want to talk about this, you can call me in the evenings around 8 p.m. 712-362-2966

1265 Oliver

IP: 198.144.34.2 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 10:37:09 AM by Harold

the hydraulic lift will not go up. Any idea how to fix? anyone near Pittsburgh who could do a repair?

Re(1): 1265 Oliver

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 08:05:10 PM by Larry Harsin

First of all, get a Shop Manual for it from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. It will give you lots of info. The Fiat Olivers weren't sold around here and I am not real familiar with them. Contact Rick Stair in OH for parts. Rick's Ag Parts 330-466-2164 or ricksagparts.com Larry

Oliver 70 kd

IP: 71.7.24.147 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 08:36:42 AM by Chad

I have a 1945 Oliver 70 kd. I have all the side curtains for it and it is a pretty straight tractor. It is a true Kd as it has the correct manifold and head on it. The tractor runs, but has a cracked block. I have another block that goes with it. I might sell it, and I was wondering what You thought it might be worth.

Re(1): Oliver 70 kd

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 12, 2011 at 08:10:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any idea. Value is condition! condition! condition! You will have to judge this. How are the tires? That will make a big difference. Is the cracked block a serious crack or is it small hairline cracks that are in most of these old blocks. Does it run? Is it all there. These are things you will have to consider as you assess the value. Probably $1500 - $3000. Larry

Are Super 55 3ph parts interchangeable with non-Oliver?

IP: 74.5.154.165 Posted on May 9, 2011 at 09:26:42 PM by Rod

I need to replace my leveling box and at least one of the lower lift arms on my Super 55 Gas. Can you tell me, since this isn't a show tractor, are these parts interchangeable with Category 1 parts for other tractors?

Re(1): Are Super 55 3ph parts interchangeable with non-Oliver?

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 10, 2011 at 07:26:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Some are interchangeable with Category 1 parts. Larry

1855 Hyd pump update

IP: 64.80.231.227 Posted on May 9, 2011 at 02:01:58 PM by dan

I did what you suggested earlier with that 1855 hyd pump and raising psi, however the compensator had a cap on it, not the screw type. I put a few shims in there and got the pressure up to about 2000# which made a big difference. Still needs to be running higher rpm's for the steering to work well though. Wonder if pump is worn?

Re(1): 1855 Hyd pump update

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 10, 2011 at 07:24:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm sure your pump is worn, but if that helped it, it is good. It's up to you if you want to go further. This one shouldn't go any higher. Did you do anything with the other valve? Larry

Re(2): 1855 Hyd pump update

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on May 10, 2011 at 08:54:13 PM by dan

The only other thing I did was rebuild and clean the priority valve, unloader, etc under the pump. I had the compensator out as well looking for problems. Can I assume this is a replacement pump? It is a PVB-15.

Re(3): 1855 Hyd pump update

IP: 75.105.50.108 Posted on May 10, 2011 at 09:25:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. You will just have to keep looking. Larry

Ignition Problem

IP: 69.21.3.20 Posted on May 8, 2011 at 01:31:04 PM by mike

I have a starter button and a key switch. The starter button fell appart. I bought a new one. Put it back together. I am sure the wires are together the way they were. Turn the key on and the gas gauge works. Turn the key on and push starter button. Starter locks up and it will not unlock by turning the key off. Only way to stop is to unhook the battery. Then hook up battery and starter engages. The only way to stop is to unhook wires to the starter button and then the key works untill you wire the button and push it, then all starts over. Any ideas? Thanks Mike.

Re(1): Ignition Problem

IP: 75.105.45.63 Posted on May 8, 2011 at 01:51:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have some of the wiring hooked up wrong. Look at the wiring diagram in your Operator's Manual and it will show you what it should be like. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you can get one at the museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099 Larry

Super 55 Starter

IP: 71.146.141.34 Posted on May 7, 2011 at 08:52:55 PM by Karl

Larry--this may be a little complicated, but here goes. I have a Super 55 gas model which by serial number is a 1955, hence it should be a 6 volt with a key-operated ignition switch and a lever-operated starter switch mounted on the starter. However, I bought it very used, and it has a 12 volt battery, an after-market (I assume) combined ignition/starter switch, and a solenoid running to the starter, which is still the 6 volt model with the correct Oliver part number stamped into it (although it is also stamped "rebuilt").

Recently this tractor refused to start or even turn over, and I isolated the problem to the starter (per a previous post). I now have a rebuilt starter obtained from Value-Bilt, and am trying to install it. The new starter is identical to the original, with the following exception:

----The existing starter on the tractor (which, as noted, is stamped "rebuilt") has a threaded brass or copper stud to which is connected a cable that is connected to the solenoid on the other end. This eliminates the starter-mounted lever-actuated switch that was the original equipment on all these Super 55s (I believe) and allows starting with a keyed spring-actuated starter switch on the dash, that in turn is connected to the solenoid. This set-up has always worked fine until the starter recently failed, despite the 6 volt/12 volt discrepancy (which I understand is not a big deal).

----The replacement starter (also stamped "rebuilt") has a flat, squared off stud almost flush to the starter. In other words, there's no easy way to attach the cable from the solenoid to this stud because there are no threads, no hole for a bolt to go in, and no obvious way to detach it from the starter and replace it with a threaded stud. I believe the original equipment lever-actuated starter swich mechanism would mount over this and the switch simply makes contact when the lever is pushed, but with the modifications to the tractor described above, I need a threaded stud. So here are my questions:

(a) can I turn out the flat, squared off stud and replace it with a threaded stud? I am afraid to turn the stud out (it fits a 1/2 inch open end wrench) for fear of damaging the new starter, particularly because I cannot seem to turn out the threaded stud on the old starter--its just spins in the hole and I'm wondering if it is actually mounted from inside the starter.

(b) alternately, can I drill say a 1/4 inch hole in the flat, squared off stud, run a tap in and out a couple of times, and install the cable from the battery with a new bolt tapped into the stud?

(c) or is there something else I should try?

Sorry for the long-winded inquiry, but I would appreciate any thoughts you have on how I can get this thing running again!! Karl

Re(1): Super 55 Starter

IP: 75.105.45.63 Posted on May 8, 2011 at 07:53:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take the starter that is on the tractor and have it repaired, if possible, rather than trying to make the Valu-Bilt starter work. If you could get a cable attached to the Valu-Bilt starter, it could work. The original starter set up on those tractors were not very successful. (The foot actuated switch) Larry

1850 dsl rear main seal

IP: 67.224.37.222 Posted on May 7, 2011 at 12:55:33 PM by Jeff Hosbond

I have a 354 perkins diesel in an oliver 1850 that appears to have a rear main oil seal leaking. I think its a two piece seal, and if it is can I replace it by dropping the oil pan, or is the engine going to have to come out?

Re(1): 1850 dsl rear main seal

IP: 75.105.45.63 Posted on May 8, 2011 at 07:46:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the engine will have to come out. Call an AGCO Dealer and see what he says. Larry

Oliver 2255

IP: 71.105.32.91 Posted on May 6, 2011 at 01:46:54 PM by Clayton

A friend has a 2255 that has lost the steering and 3 point hitch also. He does not have a manual. Where do you check the hydaraulic fluid?

Re(1): Oliver 2255

IP: 75.104.182.69 Posted on May 7, 2011 at 06:58:10 AM by Larry Harsin

He needs to get a manual. It will tell him a lot about his tractor. He can get one from the museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 To check the hydraulic fluid level, there is a dipstick on the rear of the hydraulic unit. Larry

1600 tool lift arm shaft leak

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on May 5, 2011 at 07:26:07 PM by dennis o'connor

I have gone through the manual and do not find a description of the oil seal for the tool lift arm shafts... Looks like a C clip holds the splined lift arm on the shaft... Do you have a number for the seal? And any advice on how to remove and replace?

Re(1): 1600 tool lift arm shaft leak

IP: 75.104.168.235 Posted on May 6, 2011 at 06:45:29 AM by Larry Harsin

The part number for the seal is: 107534A or 162876A. To replace the seal, I drill a small hole in the seal and use a sheet metal screw and twist it into the hole and to help pull the seal out, being careful not to damage the housing or the shaft sealing surface. Larry

Oliver 1800 injection pump timing

IP: 65.27.82.213 Posted on May 5, 2011 at 07:06:36 PM by Doug

Hello, I have an Oliver 1800 that the injection pump is bad on. Before removing the pump I tried to find the timing marks on the flywheel. I turned the motor over several times and the only mark I can find is TDC. I have rebuilt other oliver diesel engines and they always have a timing mark for BTDC or FP. Is the pump supposed to be timed to TDC on this engine or am I missing some marks?

Re(1): Oliver 1800 injection pump timing

IP: 75.104.168.235 Posted on May 6, 2011 at 06:23:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use the TDC marks. Before removing the pump, you should have lined up the marks in the pump. It should have been pretty close to the TDC mark, if it wasn't on it. Your tractor had a timing tape that showed the degrees. You can get a new timing tape from AGCO. Your Operator's Manual for your tractor tells you the exact timing degrees. Larry

Injection pump shaft

IP: 98.222.155.3 Posted on May 4, 2011 at 06:08:32 PM by Matt

Hi Larry, will a bosch injection pump shaft off of a super 88 diesel work with in a roosa master pump off of a 880 diesel? thanks

Re(1): Injection pump shaft

IP: 75.104.168.235 Posted on May 5, 2011 at 07:36:30 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It will not work. Larry

O-ring reuse

IP: 98.219.213.176 Posted on May 3, 2011 at 07:22:24 PM by joe

How bad of an idea is it to reuse the O-rings between the hydrolic spools? I see 3 of them have metal inserts, can any O ring be used with the origonal insert? I know for the price they should probably be replaced, but trying to lessen down time.

Re(1): O-ring reuse

IP: 75.104.168.235 Posted on May 4, 2011 at 06:21:12 AM by Larry Harsin

That will have to be your own decision. I normally replace O rings when I have something apart. Larry

1955

IP: 74.126.249.42 Posted on May 2, 2011 at 05:04:33 PM by Austin White

I am searching for front weights and a weight bracket for my 1955. any suggestions on who might have some. Also, how do you turn up the injector pump on a 1955 with the 310

S88 PTO bearing

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on April 30, 2011 at 09:52:54 PM by Dan

Just finished up overhauling the hydraulic unit on my 55 S88 and I noticed that there is no support bearing for the PTO shaft that the parts book shows is there. The casting isnt there and the pto shaft itself doesnt have any wear where the bearing would be. Any idea why there would be no bearing or why someone would remove it?

Re(1): S88 PTO bearing

IP: 75.104.169.113 Posted on May 1, 2011 at 07:13:50 AM by Larry Harsin

When you have a hydraulic pump in there, you don't use a support bearing. The hydraulic pump replaces it. Larry

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