Oliver 88 identification

IP: 216.228.40.146 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 04:24:58 PM by Chad

I'm rebuilding an 88 Standard that has most of the ID plate missing. The entire side of the tractor looks like it ran wild through the trees somewhere. Is there anywhere else I can find ID info or serial numbers or model info to help in buying parts?

Re(1): Oliver 88 identification

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on June 1, 2012 at 07:14:03 AM by Larry Harsin

There should be a serial number for the engine stamped on the engine block on the right rear corner, directly above the engine mount bolt. It is on the block next to the rear mounting plate. This is the serial number for the engine!!! The actual build date for the tractor, is on the engine block casting. It will be month, day and year, such as 7-10-49. The same info can be found on the bottom of the rear main frame in the area where the transmission drain plug is located. These are dates that the casting was poured. They were put into the tractors within a couple of months of being made. Larry

770 Trans Countershaft

IP: 166.182.3.140 Posted on May 30, 2012 at 08:17:31 PM by Jim

I am finishing up an Oliver 770 tractor and I bought a rear end from you for parts last year. I am switching everything over and had a question on the countershaft. Should the last gear on the shaft be tight against the rear bearing? Also, how tight should the rear countershaft nut be? The manual just says thoroughly tight. I know the countershaft retainer has the shims on the front end. I was planning to just put the same shims back on the countershaft or will it require some adjustment? Thanks.

Re(1): 770 Trans Countershaft

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:14:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it should be tight against the rear bearing. Thoroughly tight could be 100 ft. lbs. When you get done, there should be a tiny bit of movement, like .001 - .003, slight movement. Just use the shims required to attain this. Larry

550 Diesel Runs Great, Then Stalls

IP: 67.76.246.134 Posted on May 30, 2012 at 11:48:39 AM by Scott

My 550 Diesel was a strong runner until a few weeks ago. Now, it starts and runs fine for a few minutes. After a few minutes it begins to lose RPM and does so for a minute or two until it can no longer maintain an idle and dies. After it dies, it will fire back up and repeat the process. What has been done: I have replaced all fuel filters and primed the fuel system. I have released the fuel lines at the injectors and the pump output seems to be correct. The return line to the tank is putting out about a drip per second. I also opened up the air system and found no blockages.

Re(1): 550 Diesel Runs Great, Then Stalls

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:10:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Check the outlet of the fuel tank and make sure fuel comes out of there properly. If you find no obstructions in the fuel system, I would suggest the lift pump has either a broken linkage or a bad check valve. Larry

Oliver 1650

IP: 74.197.160.74 Posted on May 28, 2012 at 09:44:23 PM by KIM SHARVER

My 1650 Diesel is starting to loss power then dies after it warms up while mowing today. I shut it off waited a minute then re-started it and ran fine for a few more minutes of mowing but did the same over again Seems to be getting worse.

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:08:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Check your fuel system. There might be some kind of obstruction in there somewhere. Like junk in the neck of the fuel strainer etc. Larry

Oliver super 88 pump seal

IP: 99.194.25.218 Posted on May 27, 2012 at 10:32:26 PM by allen

Hey larry ive talked to you before awhile back. fantastic site... I was wondering if you could tell me the steps to go through to get my hydralic pump out as it needs new seals its leaking hydralic fluid in the transmission thining the gear oil out. Is this a common problem in these tractors?

Re(1): Oliver super 88 pump seal

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:07:04 AM by Larry Harsin

This is fairly common. The PTO drive shaft has to be removed before you can remove the hydraulic unit from the tractor. If you need more info, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

1255 FWA 3 point problem

IP: 173.24.124.175 Posted on May 26, 2012 at 06:38:11 PM by Wes

I'm considering buying a 1255 FWA but could not get the 3 point lift arms to raise. I'm not familiar with the mechanism but if I understand it correctly the arms would not move at all when the draft lever (at least, I think that's what it was) was down and would only move an inch or two when the draft lever was up. Can you give me an idea of what to expect in repair costs?

Re(1): 1255 FWA 3 point problem

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:03:59 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I can't give you an idea of repair costs. You can get a Shop Manual from the museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver Super 55

IP: 64.255.81.164 Posted on May 26, 2012 at 10:27:42 AM by Todd

Is the front section of a Super 55 interchangeable with any of the other super series tractors? I am talking, radiator, nose section, grill and oliver grill strip. Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver Super 55

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:02:15 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They aren't. Larry

1250 A

IP: 75.207.191.53 Posted on May 26, 2012 at 08:16:13 AM by Philip Bland

I am working on a 1969 1250 A with 3 point lift problems,I have good hyd pressure to the head under seat but it acts like its bypassing the piston . It will lift some but you can stand on the lift and it will go back down.I cant find any info on this hyd system,can you help with diagram and routing of fluid so as I can figure out witch valve is bad?

Re(1): 1250 A

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 08:01:08 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

77 to super 77

IP: 12.49.17.252

Posted on May 24, 2012 at 10:03:29 PM by Bob Wargaski I recently converted a 77 to a super when I did the engine overhaul. The 77 specs call for a SAE 1-M 90 ampere hour battery, would the super require a larger battery?

Re(1): 77 to super 77

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 07:59:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. When you put larger sleeves and pistons in, it turns harder. You might want to consider using a 12 volt system. Larry

2150 hydraulics

IP: 64.47.135.137 Posted on May 24, 2012 at 01:09:04 PM by bruce

I have a oliver 2150 hydraulic question. The remote hydraulic's work fine with the engine running. I have a allied front loader connected to both sets of hydraulics currently.The problem is that I can not release the hydraulic pressure when I have shut the engine off by moving the levers back and forth? Any suggestions?

Re(1): 2150 hydraulics

IP: 76.208.53.134 Posted on May 24, 2012 at 08:31:01 PM by 90%ret'd

The valves are working correctly. Tractor needs to be running to supply pressure to release the interlock saftey valves that are part of the hyd. system. You need an operators manual to set the restrictor valves so that the loader will drop without chattering. Boom lift shoud be connected to left valve, bucket tilt to right valve. Books from,Floyd County Historical Society | 500 Gilbert Street | Charles City, Iowa 50616 (641) 228-1099 | www.floydcountymuseum.org | Email: fchs@fiai.net

Re(2): 2150 hydraulics

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 07:57:55 AM by Larry Harsin

That is the nature of the beast. That is the way they are. Larry

Oliver paint

IP: 72.34.2.50 Posted on May 23, 2012 at 04:13:35 PM by russ

Do you know paint the used on the wheels of a 125 lawn tractor, looking for paint number.

Re(1): oliver paint

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 07:56:16 AM by Larry Harsin

The paint is Clover White. You can get it from AGCO. They have all sizes of cans and spray cans. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

pump

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on May 21, 2012 at 07:40:23 AM by robert lapage

Hi Larry we have a leak on the injector pump. It looks to be comming from the back side and it is hard to see. I did replace the little hose but it didnt help. Any ideas? Thanks Robert

Re(1): pump

IP: 67.142.181.26 Posted on May 21, 2012 at 11:18:43 AM by larry from md.

There are several places that can leak on the back side,you just have to keep looking.Might be the high preasure washers that seal the lines coming out or the govner cap seal or the small O ring that seals the back of the air bleed.

Re(2): pump

IP: 75.104.182.223 Posted on May 21, 2012 at 09:33:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Try tightening the bolt on the banjo fittings JUST A LITTLE BIT. If this doesn't work, you probably need new washers on the banjo fittings. Larry

Re(3): pump

IP: 71.164.73.2 Posted on May 21, 2012 at 10:39:37 PM by robert lapage

Larry it appears to leak more when the tractor is off. I think it maybe where the small hose hooks into. There also seems to be a small plate in the area. Are there gaskets under that plate. After it sits and leaks it starts harder. Thanks. I just dont think its the washers but Ill tighten them a bit. Have a great week!!!

Re(4): pump

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 31, 2012 at 07:53:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You might have trouble with the little hose. Probably that little hose is bad. Call Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200 and ask for Bill. Larry

oliver 770 oil leak

IP: 72.14.83.254 Posted on May 20, 2012 at 10:26:56 AM by jake jansen

our 61 oliver 770 leaks out out of the oil fill cap. is there supposed to be a gasket or something on it to stop this or is the oil slinger supposed to throw it away from the oil fill?

Re(1): oliver 770 oil leak

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 21, 2012 at 07:11:24 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a leather gasket in there. You can get one from an AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver engine identification

IP: 70.41.162.159 Posted on May 16, 2012 at 02:00:35 PM by Ralph Rancourt

Can any one help with and engine identification? I have a white 2-63-15 w/6 cyl diesel. I am looking for another block to rebuild and i know the 1550 and 1550 are the same. I found a block but the guy doesn"t know what it came out of. Externally they are almost identical but if i buy it and i can"t use it because they are different then im screwed. The block casting number on the questionable engine is 185220. The block number on my white is 185320. Can anyone tell me if the internals are interchangeable and what that engine might have come out of? Any help would be great.

Re(1): Oliver engine identification

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 17, 2012 at 07:50:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Those 2 should interchange. They are in the same family of engines. Larry

550 steering

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 10:38:22 AM by robert lapage

Hi Larry. I have a 550 and have put a different steering box in. I do not see any place to check or add oil to this box? My old one had a plug on the side of the box but this one doesnt seem to have any. Thanks

Re(1): 550 steering

IP: 67.142.181.22 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 11:58:39 AM by larry from md.

One of the lower bolts that holds the side pieces on is drilled through and add oil/grease there.

Re(2): 550 steering

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 17, 2012 at 07:49:19 AM by Larry Harsin

If you take out one of the bolts on the upper part of the box, you should be able to get oil into it. Larry

Engine

IP: 216.138.6.67 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 09:41:45 AM by Jerry

what is the correct oil pressure for a 1951 oli 77? also is there a way to e adjust the oil pressure. also tractor will not start now, it has no spark to the plugs, switched out coils with another running tractor, but nothing. Thanks you so much

Re(1): engine

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 17, 2012 at 07:47:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Oil pressure should be 12 - 18 lbs. The regulator valve is on the right front corner of the block. The spring can be stretched a LITTLE, if you want to raise the pressure. If the coil is o.k., it is probably the points. Larry

550 fluids

IP: 184.77.225.37 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 05:26:59 AM by Joe Byrne

My brother Jon and I recently acquired a 550 Oliver from what appears to be 1965. She is in really decent shape. So, we start to draining fluids. The engine oil looks ok. Changing engine oil and filter is obvious. Looks like there is milky gear lube in the diff and other stuff in the hydraulic caused by sitting out in the elements and a bad shifter boot. I Googled your previous post re; using Med hyd and 80-90wt. Since we dont have manuals, where do we put in hyd and gear lube? ... there are several oil caps and vents on our rig. There appears to be a diff lube level plug at the rear next to the PTO and a really short fill plug/dipstick (really short one) thing at the top of the 3 point and a fill plug next to the steering column on the hump. I havent found Hyd filter yet either. Thanks in advance for all you guys do out there. Joe

Re(1): 550 fluids

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 07:40:01 AM by Larry Harsin

The gear oil goes directly below the steering wheel into the hump. The hydraulic oil goes at the top of the 3 point, where it has the short dipstick. The hydraulic filter is the casting that screws off of the front of the unit. You really need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

880 power steering

IP: 66.87.7.4 Posted on May 14, 2012 at 10:12:01 PM by Austin White

I've got an 880 with power steering problems.It turns to the left fine. but is very difficult to turn to the right. I had you rebuild the steering motor 2 yrs ago, and i rebuilt my pump. What's wrong? thanks

Re(1): 880 power steering

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 07:34:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably something has come loose on the control shaft. It may be just a nut needs to be tightened up a bit or possibly the collar may be broken off of the mounting sleeve. Larry

Re(2): 880 power steering

IP: 166.216.130.44 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 10:27:35 PM by austin white

when you say control shaft, do you mean the shaft that comes from the steering wheel?

Re(3): 880 power steering

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 17, 2012 at 07:45:13 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I mean on the other end of the steering unit. Larry

Possible diesel fuel in oil

IP: 69.26.8.98 Posted on May 14, 2012 at 07:18:57 PM by Bill Wagner

I was mowing weeds with a Bush Hog on my 1650 diesel today - not working the tractor hard, but I noticed a slight decrease in oil pressure - from 35 to 30 with the engine at working temp. I shut down and checked the oil and discovered it was over full. It is not antifreeze because the oil is the normal black color of diesel oil. Could it be that the diaphragm in the fuel pump has gone bad and is leaking fuel into the crankcase? Are their other possibilities? I also noticed some engine surging at odd times that I have never noticed before.

Re(1): Possible diesel fuel in oil

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 07:33:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. If it has a transfer pump, that is the first thing I would check - a bad diaphragm. Larry

Re(2): Possible diesel fuel in oil

IP: 69.26.8.98 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 07:55:17 AM by Bill Wagner

Can that pump (is it sometimes called a "lift pump?") be repaired or should I just order a new pump from Korves?

Re(3): Possible diesel fuel in oil

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 17, 2012 at 07:44:13 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a repair kit from Korves. Larry

Loader for a 1600 Oliver

IP: 50.42.141.25 Posted on May 12, 2012 at 03:40:25 PM by Robert

I bought a front end loader for my Oliver 1600. Where would I hook up the hydraulic lines to the tractor so it will work? I hooked up to two ports under the seat and both of them were pressure that only worked when I moved the control levers for my plow cylinder. I could not find anything in the shop manual. Thank you

Re(1): Loader for a 1600 Oliver

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 13, 2012 at 07:31:14 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual. It will tell you how to hook these up. Call the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

88D no shut off

IP: 67.54.183.84 Posted on May 11, 2012 at 08:15:32 PM by Scott Standish

I just purchased my second Oliver tractor it is a 1953 88 diesel my question is the previus owner just put it in a high gear held the brake and let out the clutch to kill it I looked at the bosch pump and I can't find any type of shut off lever or a place for a wire to shut it off, am I missing something simple? thanks much Larry,scott

Re(1): 88D no shut off

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 13, 2012 at 07:29:16 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a control cable that goes up to work a little arm on the governor control shaft. Larry

Oil differential

IP: 67.142.166.26 Posted on May 11, 2012 at 03:30:05 PM by Rob Betke

1959 Oliver 880 Can you tell me the recommended manufacture motor oil differential oil for my tractor?

Re(1): Oil differential

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 13, 2012 at 07:27:09 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has a power booster, I would recommend Case IH Hytran or the equivalent. If it doesn't have power booster, I would use 80-90 transmission oil. Larry

REMOTE HYD VALVE ON 550

IP: 64.130.145.61 Posted on May 11, 2012 at 02:20:40 PM by ROGER

I HAVE A VICKERS MODEL SP 212 VALVE OFF OF SAVAGED 550. WANT TO INSTALL ON MY 550, BUT REQUIRE BOTH SINGLE AND DOUBLE ACTING CLINDER OPERATION. DOES THIS VALVE DO BOTH TYPES CYLINDERS ?? THANKS A BUNCH! ROGER

Re(1): REMOTE HYD VALVE ON 550

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 13, 2012 at 07:25:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It does. Larry

1755 steering cylinder

IP: 74.103.163.35 Posted on May 10, 2012 at 05:24:28 AM by Steve

Larry - 1755 Oliver diesel / Front end loader. the 2 cap screws holding the cap on the steering cylinder under the radiator keep coming loose. tried new bolts / new O ring on cap / lock tight. Any ideas of why they could be working loose ?

Re(1): 1755 steering cylinder

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 10, 2012 at 07:12:26 AM by Larry Harsin

This is normal. I have trouble with them occasionally also. I think it is just the pressure. Keep an eye on them and keep them tight. Maybe a new style lock washer would help. Larry

880 front wheels shimmy

IP: 69.88.208.144 Posted on May 7, 2012 at 09:50:15 AM by dale

Hi Larry, I have a oliver 880 that has gemmer power steering with pump on the generator. The steering seems to work ok, it has narrow front, but the front wheels shimmy left to right, even when just setting.

Re(1): 880 front wheels shimmy

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on May 7, 2012 at 04:10:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I would guess that there is something loose on the control of the steering unit. This is the end where the valve is attached. It's an aluminum cover with 4 twelve point bolts. Remove that cover and look for excessive play where the 1 1/8" nut is staked to the shaft. This should not be tight, but there should not be any excess slack. Larry

Oliver 70 clutch adjustment

IP: 199.68.220.83 Posted on May 6, 2012 at 06:09:29 PM by Rod

Hi, I am having trouble with my Oliver 70's clutch. We you are driving it and push in the clutch, it won't disengage for about 3-4 seconds. Does it just need adjusted? How do you do that? Thank you!

Re(1): Oliver 70 clutch adjustment

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 6, 2012 at 08:03:01 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be an inch and a half of free travel before it starts to disengage the clutch. There is a threaded portion of the rod with the clevis on it to make this adjustment. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. If you make the adjustments and it still doesn't work properly, you are going to have to take it apart and clean it up and repair it as needed. Larry

550 pto adjustment

IP: 24.183.137.231 Posted on May 6, 2012 at 05:03:34 PM by Jeff Kastello

I have a 1964 oliver 550 gas that I bought a few months back. When the engine is running the pto shaft is always turning. I have heard others say this is normal and you can stop it easily. I can't stop this one. It also will not snap over center when I move it to the engaged position. Is the clutch pack adjusted too tight or is it more likly that it is worn out and can't be adjusted any further without slipping. At the moment I dont have any implements available to hook up to test it.

Re(1): 550 pto adjustment

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 6, 2012 at 07:59:25 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a chance that it is out of adjustment, but it is also possible that it needs to be repaired. You should get an Operator's Manual. It will tell you how to adjust the PTO clutch and go from there. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum 641-228-1099. A Shop Manual is also available there, if you decide the clutch needs to be repaired. Larry

Re(2): 550 pto adjustment

IP: 24.183.137.231 Posted on May 7, 2012 at 09:40:42 PM by Jeff Kastello

Thanks Larry for your reply. This is my first tractor and your archives and the three manuals from Floyd Co, Museum have been very helpful. I opened up the hand hole cover for the PTO clutch and the adjustment ring had been turned all the way in as far as it could go so the PTO was locked in tight at all times. I had to turn it out about 25 notches before the clutch would snap over center. It now seems to operate correctly as I can turn the shaft by hand when disengaged and with it engaged I can put a wrench on it and turn over the engine. My concern is it only takes about 20 pounds of pressure to engage the PTO. Book says it should be 40. I don't know if it will be a problem because I don't have a PTO driven implement here to hook up. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.

Re(3): 550 pto adjustment

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 15, 2012 at 07:41:57 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like it was all out of adjustment when you got it. Before tearing it apart, I would try it and see how it works. Larry

1655 diesel 283 1971

IP: 166.249.96.80 Posted on May 4, 2012 at 02:24:24 AM by todd

what can you tell me good or bad history and what is over under hyra shift compare to gear is one better then the other

Re(1): 1655 diesel 283 1971

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on May 4, 2012 at 07:10:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The over/under is superior to the hydra-power because it has 3 speeds. They are both very good mechanically. Larry

Super 77 Hard to Start

IP: 208.69.162.16 Posted on May 1, 2012 at 10:25:15 PM by Ross

I recently bought a Super 77 Diesel and it is hard to start. When I first got it we pulled it to get it started and it took about 5 min for it to fire and it poured black liquid out of the exhaust pipe. I thought it was unburned fuel so I pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. The tractor would run pretty well but had a slight miss. When I put the new injectors in, I had to use a little ether to get it started but it ran well, and I thought I really had something. The next day I tried to start it, but I ran out of ether so we pulled it again. Same as before, it took about 5 min to fire and more of the black liquid came out. I don't like to use ether on any tractor, but I also don't like the black liquid overflowing all over my engine. What am i doing wrong? I always heard the old Oliver Diesels were some of the easiest to start but mine must have some problem. If it's been running a while and you shut it off, you can restart it but it takes about 10 seconds of cranking. Fuel is new as well as all filters and I cleaned the delivery valve with compressed air. Is the Hydraulic head on the pump bad? Lift pump bad? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Re(1): Super 77 Hard to Start

IP: 76.208.50.221 Posted on May 2, 2012 at 08:24:12 PM by 90%ret'd

Do you get any smoke while cranking or when pulling it? What color? It could have the pump timed wrong or low on compression, the black liquid sounds like unburned fuel. Let us know.

Re(2): Super 77 Hard to Start

IP: 208.69.162.16 Posted on May 2, 2012 at 09:31:07 PM by Ross

Yes, White smoke while cranking....Liquid only shows up when pulling....

Re(3): Super 77 Hard to Start

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 3, 2012 at 07:38:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd say you have a very tired engine. It doesn't have good compression. It is probably worn out. Larry

model an serial no.

IP: 108.49.93.34 Posted on May 1, 2012 at 09:49:59 PM by vic chaplin

I recently purchased a 1650 4x4 loader backhoe model 565 92010 serial 222 655 466 what could you tell me about this machine? I also own a 1550 loader backhoe for about 20 years great tractor! I would like to convert the 1650 hoe to 2 stick controls like the 1550 is this possible? thanks vic

Re(1): model an serial no.

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 3, 2012 at 07:35:56 AM by Larry Harsin

It's just a lot bigger and heavier than the 1550. According to the serial number, it is actually a 1655 Industrial built in 1970. I don't know if it can be changed to the 2 stick controls. Larry

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