1950T lift pump

IP: 173.88.2.254 Posted on May 31, 2013 at 03:33:13 PM by Larry

Larry; is there a lower cost lift pump that will fit on a 1750/1950T. Oliver is around $90.

Re(1): 1950T lift pump

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on June 1, 2013 at 07:39:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know, but you can get a repair kit from Korves Oliver: 618-939-6681. Larry

Implement Serial No's

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on May 31, 2013 at 03:23:25 PM by Dave

I am working on restoring an Oliver tandem disc (maybe model 241) and an Oliver 3 bottom plow (maybe model 4240). I am looking for information on the location of the model numbers and/or serial numbers if they are stamped on the machine somewhere? The decals are all worn off and I'm am wondering if you can help with any location of identification numbers? Thanks Dave

Re(1): Implement Serial No's

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on June 1, 2013 at 07:45:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Both implements had a sticker type of decal on them when they were new. It was a sticky type application and I'm sure they are long gone. This sticker was toward the front of the implement. You could try sending a picture of your implements to the museum and have them match it to pictures they have and maybe identify them that way. They will have Operator's manuals for them. Larry

1800 oliver

IP: 72.24.63.162 Posted on May 29, 2013 at 01:15:23 PM by Jason Rassel

Larry, the hydraulics on my 1800C do not hold. When pulling my baler, the rear door of the baler seeps open when I operate the hydraulic twine tie. When operating the loader, the bucket will not tip back with much of a load and will seep forward when raising the loader arms. The loader arms go up fine with a full load but sometimes bounce when going down. I do have an IT manual but need pointed in the right direction. thanks!

Re(1): 1800 oliver

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 30, 2013 at 10:07:35 AM by Larry Harsin

To get the rear door on the baler to work right, you may have to put a valve on the power beyond. As far as the problem with the loader, you may have a thermal relief valve that is bad, or a bad inter-lock. Try switching your hoses around, to see if that makes a difference. Larry

Post driver on 1800

IP: 64.250.56.109 Posted on May 28, 2013 at 10:25:34 PM by W. Blevins

Have a great deal of fence to build in a relatively short time. My question is can I run a 3 point shaver post driver on my 1800 gas. I guess what I don't understand is how can I run the valve on the driver since the lever to my remotes has to be held to allow flow to the remote that the driver is hooked to. Can I use the power beyond port that I've read about. Or am I missing something obvious?

Re(1): Post driver on 1800

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on May 30, 2013 at 10:04:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I would tie the right hand lever back so you can run the driver. You may have to put a return hose into the sump to allow the oil to get away faster. I would try it with just the lever back first. You may not need to do the hose thing. Larry

550 stop running

IP: 207.78.66.254 Posted on May 28, 2013 at 11:45:44 AM by Jeremy

I receintly bought a 1959 oliver 550 (GAS). I have started to use it to brush hog, but on two different occations after 20 minutes or so of mowing it starts to die. Almost right away it starts back up and adjusting the choke does help. After the 1st time it did have quite a bit of setiment in the setiment bulb, but I cleaned that out and there has not been more in it since. I'm not sure what is causing the problem. The tractor was my grandpa's and it was used several times a year, but only for light duty stuff like moving one of his many tractors around when we needed to get something else out.

Re(1): 550 stop running

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 30, 2013 at 10:00:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd unscrew the strainer from the fuel tank and clean it. There is probably foreign material in it. Larry

1650 won't stay running

IP: 72.11.13.48 Posted on May 27, 2013 at 08:23:33 AM by Jody Montgomery

My 1650 gas tractor used to purr like a kitten. This spring it acted like it was running out of fuel. I cleaned all the gas lines, tank and that didn't help. I replaced the points and condenser and it ran good for about 12 hours and then it started going back to choking and will not stay running. Any ideas?! When I do get it running and it runs hard, it will backfire.

Re(1): 1650 won't stay running

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 30, 2013 at 09:56:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like it is running lean on fuel. Take the carb apart and clean it out and see if that helps. Larry

Re(2): 1650 won't stay running

IP: 72.11.13.48 Posted on May 31, 2013 at 04:48:12 PM by Jody Montgomery

I already did that too. That's why I replaced the fuel lines as the first attempt. I have had this tractor for six years and it has always run very well - winter and summer and it just started acting up this spring. Any more ideas?!

1850 Oliver perkins

IP: 166.137.100.48 Posted on May 26, 2013 at 03:20:21 PM by Jesse hayes

Larry I've got a 1967 Oliver 1850 sweat back front end 6.354 Perkins with over n under but we were pressure washing it and w just bought it and we have found yellow paint everywhere on it underneath the other great paint and no it's not primer ethier it's all over the loft the steering box the head the engine the frame and front axles and we were just wondering could it be a industrial 1850 Oliver the serial number is 206-060-557 can you tell if it is?

Re(1): 1850 Oliver perkins

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 27, 2013 at 07:48:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I've had tractors with that yellow under the green and they were still just regular tractors. So, we can't really tell if it is an Industrial. If you would call the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099 and get a copy of the Build Card for your tractor, possibly it would tell you. The Build Card is one of the old computer punch cards. A computer followed your tractor down the assembly line as it was built and when something was put into the tractor, the card was punched. For a fee, you can get a copy of the Build Card. It even tells you what dealership first sold the tractor. Larry

1550 engine pull down

IP: 72.94.168.41 Posted on May 20, 2013 at 07:36:29 PM by Steve moyer

Have 1550 gas tractor. When going to and from fields on road runs fine. When in field under load after couple of passes engine pulls down, smoke from breather, rise in temp., engine shuts down. Will start right back up. Make one pass - same symtoms. Engine pulls down, smoke from breather, temp rise, shuts down. Water is full. Oil and filter have been changed. Like to hear your thoughts on problem. Thanks

Re(1): 1550 engine pull down

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 22, 2013 at 07:12:22 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like a tired engine to me. I'd take it apart. Larry

Oliver 770 Hydraulics

IP: 69.147.198.92 Posted on May 19, 2013 at 01:47:16 PM by Kyle

I have an oliver 770 that has me stumped. Tractor has ran great with now issues for the 15 years ive had it. I have been running a small pull behind plow and it has worked fine until suddenly It wouldn't raise or lower the cylinder at all. The hydraulic dip stick showed nothing so of course I filled it up. it worked for awhile then it stopped again, once again the the fluid showed low so I filled it up again and it worked for a little while then stopped raising or lowering again and showed the fluid low on dip stick. I have checked every hose, fitting, gaskets around transmission and I don't see fluid leaking anywhere, especially for how quickly it quits working. Where the heck is all the fluid going? or what could be causing this? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thank you

Re(1): Oliver 770 Hydraulics

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 20, 2013 at 06:41:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably the seals in the pump are bad and the oil is going into the transmisssion, Larry Re(2): Oliver 770 Hydraulics

IP: 69.147.198.92 Posted on May 20, 2013 at 10:16:44 AM by Kyle

Thank you that makes sense because I had opened the other threaded fill cap that goes to the transmission and could see plenty of fluid in there. So if I continued to put fluid in it it would just fill the transmission all the way which would caused problems im assuming. Thanks again.

1650 stops moving under power

IP: 138.103.17.17 Posted on May 19, 2013 at 12:33:27 PM by Mark Brunner

i have a 1650 that will that stop moving under load. The engine runs fine and dose not loose rpm but the tractor just stops moving.

Re(1): 1650 stops moving under power

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on May 20, 2013 at 06:40:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You could have a clutch that is not holding. It could be some splines that are worn off a transmission shaft. This is two things you could check. Larry

Oliver 550 Tranmission.

IP: 71.182.160.68 Posted on May 18, 2013 at 07:23:17 AM by Don Miller

Mr. Harsin, I'm having trouble with the transmission in my 1964 Oliver 550 diesel. It only has 1 gear going forward, and no reverse. Took the shifter out and realigned the shift rail's, but the problem didn't go away. The center rail will move back and forth about a half inch, but won't slide rearward into the housing. I can see two concave detent spot's on the top of the center rail, just before it enter's the housing. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated !

Re(1): Oliver 550 Tranmission.

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 18, 2013 at 07:34:02 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can't re-align them through that hole, you may have to remove the lid and see what exactly is the problem. Larry

oliver 77

IP: 69.24.184.231 Posted on May 17, 2013 at 12:49:19 PM by bill lundholm

i have a 1949 oliver 77, it seams that the hydraulic fluid is leaking out the rear axle seals, and pto bottom cover.Is this possible? How do i fix it?

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 18, 2013 at 07:30:41 AM by Larry Harsin

The seals and bearings in the hydraulic pump are bad and it is leaking oil into the transmission (rear end). Larry

1950-T clutch

IP: 207.225.128.74 Posted on May 15, 2013 at 09:49:44 PM by Craig Johnson

We have a 1950-T that had a new clutch and PP assembly installed about 400 hrs ago. lately it has become more difficult to shift, the clutch isn't slipping, rather the opposite, it acts liek the release levers aren't releasing enough. The free travel on the pedal is maxed out, it's like the rod needs to be longer in order for there to be more travel. The release levers were set to the shop manual spec on installation - is it possible to adjust these slightly to improve the shifting and reduce the 'drag' of the clutch when pedal is depressed?

Re(1): 1950-T clutch

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on May 16, 2013 at 08:15:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think you can adjust those levers inside the bell housing without taking it apart. Larry

Re(2): 1950-T clutch

IP: 207.225.128.74 Posted on May 17, 2013 at 07:27:33 AM by Craig Johnson

On this tractor, there is a small rectangular access hole in the top of the bell housing that will allow the adjustment of these levers. Not being all that familiar with clutches in general, I guess what I'm wondering is can I move/adjust the levers outward, closer to the throw-out bearing, without affecting the strength of the clutch or how well it will disengage? The clutch feels good and strong and isn't slipping at all, but I'd like it to disengage better so that I can shift gears without having the clutch 'drag' and grind gears. If I try adjusting these levers, aside from having them all equally distanced from the throwout bearing, what else should I be concerned about on it? Thanks for the help and insight guys!

Re(3): 1950-T clutch

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 18, 2013 at 07:32:28 AM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to adjust them properly and then secure the adjustment so that it doesn't change in operation. Larry

"61" 550 diesel spare key

IP: 98.18.183.35 Posted on May 14, 2013 at 04:18:30 PM by Carol Cross

Mr. Richard Wilbanks (Wallis Wilbanks Funeral Home in LaFayette GA just donated my FFA Chapter a"61" 550 Diesel Tractor. I have the original key, but would like to have a spare. Would you happen to know where I could purchase one, please?

Re(1): "61" 550 diesel spare key

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 15, 2013 at 07:14:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I probably have one. If you would email a picture of your key to me, so I can see what one matches it. It will be $5 including shipping. Larry Email: harsinoliver@ilechsi.com

Oliver 1750 gas tractor

IP: 216.114.66.162 Posted on May 13, 2013 at 04:12:33 PM by Blake Waterhout

I am looking for a wiring diagram for this tractor I am having starter problems and want to go over the wiring. can you help?

Re(1): Oliver 1750 gas tractor

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on May 15, 2013 at 07:11:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Call the Museum in Charles City and get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. 641-228-1099. It will have the wiring diagram. Larry

66 diesel

IP: 76.0.78.239 Posted on May 12, 2013 at 03:17:52 PM by Jerrod Lancaster

I recently purchased a 66 rc diesel. It had been sitting in a barn for quite a few years. I changed the engine oil and filter, and fuel filters. it runs great but there is one problem. You can drive it down the road only about 1/2 mile and it will pull down and the engine will lock up. It can sit for only a min or two and it will fire right back up and run great. I have removed the PTO to eliminate that being the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 66 diesel

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 15, 2013 at 07:08:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd remove the engine oil pan and start checking rod and main bearings. Larry

1550 hydraulic leak

IP: 174.20.150.11 Posted on May 11, 2013 at 02:02:25 PM by Floyd Hampton

Hi Larry. The hydraulic control linkage shaft on the left side of my 1550 is leaking. Repair manual shows a o ring on the shaft,do you think this is my problem and how hard is it to get at to fix.Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic leak

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 12, 2013 at 06:30:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It probably is. It will have to be taken apart so that you can replace that O ring. Larry

Head torque

IP: 98.219.213.176 Posted on May 10, 2013 at 03:52:48 PM by Brent

Hi Larry, Thanks for posting the 175/150 ft/lbs torque for the 1855. I was going thru the manual while torqueing the head and it is showing 210/133 ft/lbs... I'm at 175 on the inner and 150 on the outer, will this cause a problem? Or do you think the manual is a misprint?

Re(1): Head torque

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on May 11, 2013 at 07:39:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I do the 175 and the 150. It isn't a misprint, it was changed later. Larry

Re(2): Head torque

IP: 98.219.213.176 Posted on May 11, 2013 at 08:24:42 AM by Brent

I just wanted to make sure I didn't over/under torque. When you re-torque; do you back the bolt off 1/4 turn and re-torque? Or just set for the final torque setting and go thru the sequence? I've been told both ways.. Thanks!

Re(3): Head torque

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on May 15, 2013 at 07:07:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I just set the final setting and go through it. I have also done it the other way. Makes no difference - whatever works. Larry

Oliver 70 starter bolts

IP: 24.154.25.194 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 04:25:30 PM by Grant

I'm working on restoring a Oliver 70. The starter has a two bolt flange. I tried a 3/8 bolt and they are a tiny bit loose. I can't seem to find the right size and I don't have the originals. I wasn't sure if my threads were messed up or if they used a different size. What size was used back then? Thank you for your time!

Re(1): Oliver 70 starter bolts

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 08:40:22 PM by Larry Harsin

They are 7/16 bolts. Larry

1655 diesel

IP: 50.126.208.65 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 00:19:04 AM by Dustin

I'm working on a 1655 diesel. I was doing what I thought to be a routine oil change/service on this tractor when I filled the radiator oil floated to the surface. There was no water in the oil when I drained the pan, so this is a new one to me any thoughts or suggestions would be great.

Re(1): 1655 diesel

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 08:39:29 PM by Larry Harsin

That engine has been known to force oil up into the water jacket up through the O rings on the sleeves. Make sure the crankcase ventilator is not plugged. If it doesn't have good oil pressure, you could be getting excess oil around the rod bearings. This could aggravate the situation. Larry

1655 engine

IP: 64.136.73.40 Posted on May 6, 2013 at 11:22:43 PM by Mark Meek

I have a 1655 that has been sitting unused about 10 years. I can turn the engine app. 1/2 turn either way. What would be my best plan of action from this point?

Re(1): 1655 engine

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 08:35:24 PM by Larry Harsin

What do you plan to do with it? Use it? Sell it? Is it a gas or a diesel? Larry

Re(2): 1655 engine

IP: 64.136.73.40 Posted on May 7, 2013 at 09:38:50 PM by Mark Meek

Diesel. I am giving it to my son to be used primarily as a mowing tractor. My dad bought it new in 1972. Kind of a heritage thing.

Re(3): 1655 engine

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on May 30, 2013 at 10:14:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Turn it by hand to make sure no valves are sticking, before I tried to start it. I would take the valve cover off and make sure that the valves are not stickie or stuck. I would also try to get fresh fuel into the filters and the injection pump before starting it. Sorry I didn't notice your question earlier. Larry

880 transmission

IP: 166.147.104.22 Posted on May 4, 2013 at 09:25:54 PM by Joe

I have an 880 diesel with powerboost. We are having trouble with the transmission. We have the unit torn apart and we found the issue. We need to remove the input shaft but we don't have an accurate exploded view of the transmission. We have an I & T shop manual for the tractor and it shows transmissions but not an accurate representation of what we have. Where do we find an exploded view of our transmission or how do we get the input shaft out? We have everything off the unit and have the shaft moving but it won't come out. I think it should have a hidden snap ring somewhere. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): 880 transmission

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 5, 2013 at 10:39:08 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a snap ring hidden in the inside of that cluster. You have to take the bolts off of the front bearing retainer and tap on the back end of the shaft. Then you will find that hidden snap ring in the cluster. Larry

SS# on 1955 770

IP: 70.198.15.222 Posted on May 3, 2013 at 02:24:55 PM by Joe Haswell

Where can I find it.

Re(1): SS# on 1955 770

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on May 4, 2013 at 07:27:26 AM by Larry Harsin

It is on the lower left of the dash. Larry

backhoe

IP: 208.87.77.155 Posted on May 2, 2013 at 07:06:29 AM by Gary

I just purchased an Oliver 1550 diesel industrial backhoe. What type of hydraulic oil should I use? What type should be used in the torque? Also does anyone have original owners, shop, parts manuals for sale? Thanks, Gary

Re(1): backhoe

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 3, 2013 at 07:27:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. You can get it at your farm supply store or NAPA, etc. In the torque converter, use what the book says. Mine says "automatic transmission fluid", but if that doesn't have enough umph, or enough power, you could try a heavy non-foaming hydraulic oil, which is like 30 wt. Larry

1955 hydraulics

IP: 166.147.104.145 Posted on May 1, 2013 at 10:40:14 PM by Austin

I'm fighting the hydraulics on my 1955. The top hose on the right remote doesn't have any pressure. the bottom hose and left remote all have 2500 psi and will hold it. In the last 2 years it's had a new pump and new o-rings installed in the valve assembly. The right remote has been drifting in the last year and just quit this week. Any thoughts? Thanks

Re(1): 1955 hydraulics

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on May 3, 2013 at 07:23:59 AM by Larry Harsin

There is something that is wrong in that remote valve. You'll just have to find it and correct it. Larry

70RC Starting

IP: 65.43.7.174 Posted on May 1, 2013 at 07:39:59 AM by Travis C.

Hi Larry, Our museum owns a 1946 Oliver 70 gas tractor. It still has its original 6-volt positive ground electrical system. We are having a problem starting the tractor-the battery is new, the starter has been rebuilt (we think)and the plugs get good spark, but when we go to start the tractor, it seems to not have enough power to really crank over the engine fast enough to draw fuel up into the cylinders to really get the tractor to start. Once we get the tractor started (via starting fluid) she runs great. Would buying a new starter for this tractor solve this 'slow-spinning' problem, or is this just how a 6-volt system operates(I really have no experience in 6-volt systems)? We really don't want to go through the hassle/expense of converting it to 12-volt, but we can't(should not have to) be using starting fluid every time we want to start this tractor. Any hints, ideas? Re(1): 70RC Starting

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on May 3, 2013 at 07:22:41 AM by Larry Harsin

It might be worth a try to purchase an 8 volt battery for it. I have done that and it works. Yes, you can get 8 volt batteries. Larry

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