"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - May, 2015 Archives


1550 clutch

IP: 71.164.70.95 Posted on May 31, 2015 at 11:05:04 AM by robert lapage

We checked the throw out bearing holder and thats in place. Installed the clucth and the rod has very little or no adj. left. Is there a difference in a clutch for a 1550 vs a 1550 utility with a short front end? The pressure plate seems to be about 6 inches from the shaft. Not too sure what else to try.. Thanks. Robert

Re(1): 1550 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 1, 2015 at 06:53:14 AM by Larry Harsin

The finger height on the pressure plate may be low. Or, you may have a bad key where the throwout shaft fits on the clutch. Larry

Re(2): 1550 clutch

IP: 163.153.134.32 Posted on June 2, 2015 at 11:52:40 AM by robert lapage

I did check the key it appears fine. The pressure plate mounts up fine. Ca n I get a thicker pp to make it move closer to the throw out bearing? There seems to be too much travel before it hits the pp. Thanks... Robert

Re(3): 1550 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 3, 2015 at 07:27:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I would adjust the fingers on the pressure plate out a little bit. Larry

Re(4): 1550 clutch

IP: 163.153.134.32 Posted on June 3, 2015 at 11:38:02 AM by robert lapage

Larry I am thinking the throw out bearing fork may be on backwards. Do you know if the bolt goes in from the front or from the back? Mine goes in from the front....Thanks

Re(5): 1550 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 4, 2015 at 07:04:41 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't, but there is only one way to put it in there and that will work. Larry


1850 oliver gas carburetor

IP: 68.77.34.106 Posted on May 29, 2015 at 04:01:13 PM by bruce

I have an 1850 gas with marvel schebler usx37 on it which is in bad shape not able to rebuild my question xan you still get these or similar carb that'll work??

Re(1): 1850 oliver gas carburetor

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 1, 2015 at 06:49:35 AM by Larry Harsin

You can buy a new Zenith. You could talk to Valu-Bilt about getting the one you have reconditioned. 888-828-3276. Larry


oliver 88 poppet ball and shifter rod

IP: 72.38.73.158 Posted on May 28, 2015 at 10:32:12 AM by jacob haan

have problems getting the poppet ball into place on my Oliver 88 shifter rod are there any tricks to get them then in been working at it with no luck.

Re(1): oliver 88 poppet ball and shifter rod

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 29, 2015 at 07:25:17 AM by Larry Harsin

There aren't any tricks to it. You just have to hold the ball down and slip the rail in. Larry


1550 clutch

IP: 163.153.134.32 Posted on May 27, 2015 at 07:08:20 AM by robert lapage

Hi Larry This has been are problem the last 2 times we have put in a clutch in our 1550. It seems when we are done and hook up the clutch pedal, there is no adjustment left. The adj. rod needs to be all the way out to make the pedal work just a little. There is very little thread left. Do I have the right parts? Thanks larry and have a great day. Robert

Re(1): 1550 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 27, 2015 at 07:43:15 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be that the fingers in the pressure plate are not adjusted properly. Also, the key that holds the fork to the shaft for the throw-out bearing may be broken. Larry

Re(2): 1550 clutch

IP: 163.153.134.32 Posted on May 27, 2015 at 10:35:08 AM by robert lapage

O.k I will have to check both those out. I thought the pressure plate came pre adjusted. Also is it fine to maybe add an inch or to two the connecting linkage? Thanks again and have a great day!!

Re(3): 1550 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 28, 2015 at 06:59:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I would not advise adding an inch or two to the connecting linkage. It might ruin it. Larry


1750 axle play

IP: 207.118.225.187 Posted on May 24, 2015 at 06:41:13 PM by Keith

Hi Larry, I have a 1750 that was leaking oil out the right side axle. I got a new seal to put in, but when i went to take the hub off I noticed a fair amount of play in and out with the axle. the outer bearing looks ok, I am wondering how much play there should be and what I would need to do to correct it. Thanks for your help. Keith

Re(1): 1750 axle play

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2015 at 08:02:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Take out enough shims until the play is gone. Larry


Oliver 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 23, 2015 at 07:42:24 AM by Harvey Almarode

I just recently acquired an Oliver 550. I was told in was a 1975. It does not have power steering and while using the yard rake, the steering stopped working. It will turn to the right but when I turn the wheel left the steering wheel and column come out of the column that it is in. I am new at owning a tractor so just want to where to start with getting the steering fixed.

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 1, 2015 at 07:09:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Find a local mechanic to do the work for you. Then call Kent Gordon for parts needed. Call Kent Gordon in Palestine, TX. 903-729-8349. Larry


1255 Oliver

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 23, 2015 at 07:38:35 AM by Ron Pleasant

Hello, I have just purchased a 1255 Oliver. Really nice tractor with strong engine. I am looking to find the best place to purchase some items: Ball joints, tie rod, control arm (r), Seat and manual. I have been on a few web sites but would like to hear if you all have a favorite. Regards, Ron

Re(1): 1255 Oliver

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2015 at 07:59:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rick's Ag Parts 330-466-2164. He has some Fiat Oliver parts. Larry


Steering Column

IP: 73.216.216.103 Posted on May 23, 2015 at 00:13:38 AM by Harvey Almarode

I just recently acquired an Oliver 550. I was told in was a 1975. It does not have power steering and while using the yard rake, the steering stopped working. It will turn to the right but when I turn the wheel left the steering wheel and attached worm gear come out of the column that it is in. I am new at owning a tractor so just want to know where to start with fixing this steering.

Re(1): Steering Column

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 23, 2015 at 07:14:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Kent Gordon in Palestine, TX. 903-729-8349. He has a lot of S55 and 550 parts. Larry


Gear box oil

IP: 1.136.97.39 Posted on May 22, 2015 at 00:57:35 AM by Mark

What gear box oil and what diff oil do I use in a 1950 Oliver tractor and how much ( gallons)

Re(1): Gear box oil

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 22, 2015 at 06:38:01 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a 1950, 80-90 is used in the transmission and differential. It takes approx. 10 gal. You need to contact the Floyd Co. Museum and get an Operators Manual for your tractor. It will tell you so many things about your tractor. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): Gear box oil

IP: 1.136.97.39 Posted on May 24, 2015 at 04:18:56 AM by Mark

Thanks Larry also Hyrashift is the flow on from g/box or is it a diffrent oil? And yes l'm trying to get a owners manual they all have repair man. Cheers mark

Re(3): Gear box oil

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2015 at 08:04:15 AM by Larry Harsin

The hydra power has its own oil supply and it uses ATF. Larry

Re(4): Gear box oil

IP: 1.152.96.10 Posted on May 26, 2015 at 03:52:13 AM by Mark

Thanks Larry for your help have Tryed to get owner manual but can only get service man. Do you know where l can get one . Cheers fella Mark

Re(5): Gear box oil

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 27, 2015 at 07:51:52 AM by Larry Harsin

We told you to get a Service Manual from the museum in Charles City, IA. Dealers don't have them any more as they don't make the tractors anymore. When Oliver closed in Charles City, they gave all of their paperwork to the local historical society. They put them in their museum and they print copies of the manuals and sell them to people who need them. If you give them a call, you can use your credit card and order one and you will have it in a few days. 641-228-1099 They will have an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual for your tractor. You need a Service Manual for your problem. Larry


88 TSX 374 parts

IP: 209.152.123.179 Posted on May 20, 2015 at 11:00:00 AM by Luke in Iowa

Larry- Still doing some work on this '53 88. Would not idle right and after fiddling with adjustments decided that the idle passage from the main feed to the idle jet had to be plugged, and it was. I have found at this point that I need a main nozzle and a power needle and seat. The threads for the main look really poor, so possibly a different bowl would be needed as well. I have checked around for parts for this carb and have come up with nothing as far as what I need. Any pointers on where to get these parts?

Re(1): 88 TSX 374 parts

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 22, 2015 at 06:33:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Call with O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Valu-Bilt in Indianola IA also has rebuilt carbs. 888-828-3276. Larry


Oliver 1255 4x4 diesel

IP: 50.48.190.39 Posted on May 19, 2015 at 09:30:16 PM by Judson

Hi I'm looking at a 1255 to purchase. The current owner says he can't get it started after he changed the fuel filters. He said he's primed the whole system but it seems like there isn't the proper amount of fuel coming out when he cracked the injector lines. Any help would be appreciated thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1255 4x4 diesel

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 22, 2015 at 06:31:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't worked with the Fiat Olivers. He will just have to follow the instructions in his Operator's Manual about bleed the filters. If that doesn't work, contact someone locally who knows how to fix it. Larry


S88 Hyd Pump

IP: 70.41.64.59 Posted on May 18, 2015 at 04:47:11 PM by Larry Ray

Hydraulics quit working and oil gone. Found cracked pump center plate. Replaced with used pump. Checked relief valve and found no shims. Reassembled and put a pressure valve in a remote hose. On actuating valve, pressure went to 2000 psi. Pump center plate cracked again. My question is what could cause pressure that high if not the relief valve?

Re(1): S88 Hyd Pump

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 19, 2015 at 07:55:56 AM by Larry Harsin

2000 lbs is entirely too much! 1250 lbs. is the maximum! Too many shims on the relief valve or the relief valve seat might have backed out of the housing. Larry


removing engine

IP: 64.4.107.230 Posted on May 18, 2015 at 12:50:39 PM by oron clemmons

I'm working on a 1950 Oliver 66 row crop 4cyl. gas, removing engine to soda blast and paint. shop manual says to use tool #sts-99 eye bolt I see a stud sticking up on the cyl. head manifold side to drop a chain over and tighting down with nut and washer,dang if I can figure what to hook it to on the dist. side. Can you help me?

Re(1): removing engine

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 19, 2015 at 07:53:34 AM by Larry Harsin

The one bolt should be capable. Just put a chain over that one bolt and put a nut on it and it should be adequate. Larry


1958 550

IP: 71.51.113.120 Posted on May 18, 2015 at 08:59:15 AM by Edward jones

Battery not charging. What voltage does the generator put out, ac or doc & is the box on top of the gen a regulator or a rectifier. Any suggestions on troubleshooting? Thank you for your assistance

Re(1): 1958 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 19, 2015 at 07:51:15 AM by Larry Harsin

The box on top is a regulator. The voltage is direct current. If you can't get it to work, take the generator and regulator to a generator repair shop and have it corrected. Larry


1755 over and under

IP: 71.251.171.195 Posted on May 15, 2015 at 05:25:52 PM by Dave Jefferds

Hello I trying to remove the pto drive shaft. Is there a better way than using the threaded rod? The shaft comes out part way then seems to bind up. This is a new shaft. Thank you

Re(1): 1755 over and under

IP: 172.4.207.196 Posted on May 18, 2015 at 07:53:55 AM by 90% ret'd

The procedure that worked well for me was to make sure the PTO lever was in a free to move area, not engaged or latched back, put a good vice-grip plier on the shaft, a steady pull on the bolt or threaded rod and use a rubber hammer or the palm of your hand to bump the VG to rotate the shaft while pulling on it, Make sure the "O" ring that seals the retaining plug has been removed,

Re(2): 1755 over and under

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 19, 2015 at 07:49:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Be patient and keep trying and it will eventually come out. Larry


1950 throttle keeps working back towards idle

IP: 173.215.0.78 Posted on May 14, 2015 at 07:09:53 PM by Steve W

I have a 1950 with a detroit in it. The throttle keeps working back towards idle or half throttle. I've replaced the bushings in the linkage and retightened them and adjusted the tension off the booster spring on the engine. It acts like I'm missing a spring somewhere else. Are there any other adjustments to make the throttle stay in position at 3/4 to wide open. We had to tie a bungee strap to it and hook it to the hole in the hood by the muffler to get it to work like it should.

Re(1): 1950 throttle keeps working back towards idle

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 15, 2015 at 08:04:44 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't know of other adjustments. On that particular model it is hard to keep it correct. I know what you are up against. Larry


1755 engine shims

IP: 50.77.193.205 Posted on May 14, 2015 at 07:43:16 AM by Jeremy

pulled out engine from my 1755 and did not see any shims under any of the 4 engine mounts. where exactly would the shims be if it had any? approximately how thick are they usually? im replacing engine and not sure if I should be concerned about not having any shims to put back in. thank you

Re(1): 1755 engine shims

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 14, 2015 at 09:14:34 AM by Larry Harsin

They were built without shims on the engine mounts. In cases where the engine mounts been loose and worn into the frame, shimming will be required to put it back to the original. Larry


88 RC problems

IP: 199.248.201.250 Posted on May 13, 2015 at 07:00:04 PM by Keith Livelsberger

Hi Larry, I have two questions about my 88 Oliver. First, I replaced my PTO clutch disks and cant get the PTO to stop running. I replaced the shims like it said and now I cant keep it running. Second, I re shooed the brake bands and the brakes do not stop the tractor. Is it possible I have them in backwards? Thanks.

Re(1): 88 RC problems

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 14, 2015 at 09:12:08 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to follow the instructions in the Shop Manual to get the problem with the PTO resolved. Possibly the brakes have been installed backwards. Larry

Re(2): 88 RC problems

IP: 199.248.201.250 Posted on May 17, 2015 at 01:54:37 PM by Keith Livelsberger

Thanks Larry for the help. Yes the brakes were installed on the wrong sides. Still have not figured out the PTO problem. Still does "click" into position when engaged. Thanks again. Keith


1953 88 gas exhaust manifold outlet

IP: 209.152.123.179 Posted on May 12, 2015 at 10:31:03 AM by Luke in Iowa

I'm doing some small work on an 88 gas for a friend. The owner wants a new muffler installed in place of the existing straight pipe (hood is cut, wants to use a Super series muffler). The 88 has a stamped flange and pipe weldment that is bolted to the manifold outlet. The pipe O.D. measures a nominal 2". From what I'm seeing on the web, available mufflers have an inlet dia. of 2 3/8", which would be correct for a 2" NPT stub threaded into the manifold. I wrote down the numbers on the manifold which are: 190342-A towards the front, and I assume the K415 to be the casting number, which is to the rear. The flange mounting screw center to center distance is 3 1/2". He is using the tractor now, and I just fix on it when time allows. What whould be the correct manifold outlet arrangement for this 88?

Re(1): 1953 88 gas exhaust manifold outlet

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 13, 2015 at 07:44:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Originally the outlet was threaded for the exhaust pipe, but it sounds like yours has a provision for the phlange to bolt onto the pipe. I have seen this before. Whatever works is fine. The numbers you give are correct for that manifold. Larry


Oliver 1950 Hydra Power

IP: 207.174.236.192 Posted on May 11, 2015 at 09:15:34 PM by Charlie

I have an Oliver 1950 GM with a creeper drive transmission. I would like to know what model tractors I could obtain a hydra power drive from to replace my creeper drive or if it has to come from another GM model to have the correct input shaft. Thanks in advance for any help.

Re(1): Oliver 1950 Hydra Power

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 12, 2015 at 07:48:16 AM by Larry Harsin

A 1900 through a 1950 GM, would be the hydra-power drive that is compatible. Larry


Oliver 70 oil pressure

IP: 173.209.212.202 Posted on May 2, 2015 at 06:20:57 PM by codie

how much oil pressure should a 70 carry And where should it be monitored from? The line on mine is on the left side of the block but looks to me like it should be on the right. With a new gauge I'm only registering 7 pounds but the motor runs good with no knocks or noises. Could this just be a faulty gauge or more serious issues? Is there a relief valve i should check?

Re(1): Oliver 70 oil pressure

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 4, 2015 at 08:25:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Most 70's picked up the oil pressure on the right side of the engine. I would like to see more than 7 lbs. of pressure. I'd tend to use heavier oil and let it go. I'd use 15-30 or just 30. Larry


Steering Box

IP: 68.44.87.102 Posted on May 1, 2015 at 10:13:58 PM by Gerald Abbott

We have a 1755 The Steering Cap was Broken when we got the tractor and leaked. We replaced the Cap and after an Hour of use it broke again. Any Suggestions are there shims under the cap for clearance?

Re(1): Steering Box

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 4, 2015 at 08:22:47 AM by Larry Harsin

There are no shims. You may need to get a seal kit foe it. Ag Parts First used to have them 866-264-9720. Larry


880 energy cells

IP: 74.140.85.152 Posted on May 1, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM by Larry

Larry; I pulled the energy cells out of block, it looks like at sometime past a rod was stuck thru from the injector side and pounded on. A couple of the cells cup end has some indentations in them. The center holes in the cells are not as bad. We have overhauled the engine and swapped the pump to a Rosa. Will the damaged cells have any noticeable effect on those cyclinders when worked. Thanks

Re(1): 880 energy cells

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 4, 2015 at 08:20:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I think they will be o.k. Larry


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