770d

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 11:25:15 PM by Eric Mott

I have a 1959 oliver 770d that I replaced the hydraulic pump in and I have a for the lack of the proper name a piece of tin shaped like a scoop with one bolt hole in it that sets somewhere on the transmission under the hydraulic pump housing. When I put it in the place I believe it goes it blocks the hydraulic pump from going into place. I have a manual but it doesn't have any reference pictures of the scoop pan or where it is supposed to be located. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.....

770d

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 11:27:52 PM by Larry Harsin

That piece of tin was used to funnel oil up to the front of the transmission, through a hole in the power booster. If the power booster has been taken out, this piece can be eliminated. This piece was mounted on the front hole of the transmission shifter cradle. Larry

1750 Oil Seal

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 09:43:51 PM by John Hoberg

On May 29, 2016, at 10:49 AM, John Hoberg wrote: I have an oil leak where the 3-point connects to the frame. This is the lower point of attachment and it appears that there is a seal on the inside of the U-shaped unit that holds the 3-point arm. I have attached a picture hoping that helps my poor explanation. I have a couple of questions on how to replace this: does the rear end (where the PTO shaft is) need to come off? How big of a job this is? And can I still get this seal? Any help is much appreciated.

Re(1): 1750 Oil Seal

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 09:46:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Drain the grease out of the transmission, remove the PTO unit, then you can get access to the rock shaft bolts. You can get a new seal from your AGCO Dealer. Larry

Re(2): 1750 oil seal

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 09:49:43 PM by John Hoberg

I removed what I thought you meant concerning the PTO unit. However, I'm guessing I misunderstood. Attached is a photo and you can see what I removed. Am I to remove this large plate that was holding the PTO?

Re(3): 1750 oil seal

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 30, 2016 at 09:51:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Where that white bolt is on the right of the picture, remove it plus the three others. Before you remove these bolts, you have to remove the long drive shaft that goes up to the engine. There are also about 10 1/2 Ò cap screws to remove besides the 4 you have already removed. In the picture, at the top left center there is a tin plug that you pry out with a screw driver. In that hole about 3 inches, you will find a snap ring that has to be removed. Then, take a long 1/2Ó coarse thread bolt and screw into that plug and pull the plug out. Then, you will find an O ring that sealed this plug. You will have to use an O ring pick to remove it. Then, using your long 1/2Ó puller bolt, screw it into the shaft inside and pull the shaft out of the tractor. It will be approx. 6Õ long. Now if you have the grease drained out of the rear end, you will be ready to remove the PTO out of the tractor. I use either a hoist or a cherry picker to remove this. I would suggest replacing the lower drive shaft that you have already removed (put it back in) and then slipping a pipe (like a piece of well pipe) about 4 ft. long over the the output shaft, so that you will have a lever to handle the unit. Larry

1650 3pt and hydraulics

IP: 70.194.69.234 Posted on May 27, 2016 at 07:51:52 PM by Doug

Hi Larry. The 3pt keeps leaking down on my 1650. It will leak down and return to the set position continually while it's running if some thing is on it, and it will leak all the down when the tractor is shut off. I have also noticed a cylinder will leak off too when plugged into the tractor when it's shut off. It used to not do this, only since the 3pt started acting up. Do you have any ideas? Thanks ahead!

Re(1): 1650 3pt and hydraulics

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 27, 2016 at 08:48:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It may need a new O ring on the lift piston. And it may need to have the inter-locks on lift cylinder resealed. Larry

550 3point

IP: 104.235.96.173 Posted on May 27, 2016 at 07:02:15 AM by Rob Schmitt

Have a olver550 made in 1963 the 3pt will not keep the mower held all the way up. it lifts fine will hold it where you need it except in the full raised position .it will go down 2-3 inches then pick it back up to full raised position then.the lift lever is on the full raise position. is there a valve inside that is letting guild seep by when in full raise position any help will be greatly appreciated

Re(1): 550 3point

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 27, 2016 at 08:45:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It may need an O ring and back up washer on the lift piston. Larry

Super 55 head

IP: 206.248.13.199 Posted on May 26, 2016 at 08:23:11 AM by Brandon

I purchased a rubber tired roller packer made out of a super 55.(we think). The markings on the unit are very vague. It has a 4 cylinder gas engine and I had the head reworked. Getting ready to reinstall and need some specs and any advice on head bolt torques and valve settings

super 55 head

IP: 206.248.13.199 Posted on May 26, 2016 at 08:23:11 AM by Brandon

I purchased a rubber tired roller packer made out of a super 55.(we think). The markings on the unit are very vague. It has a 4 cylinder gas engine and I had the head reworked. Getting ready to reinstall and need some specs and any advise on head bolt toques and valve settings

1655 Gas Knock

IP: 24.197.214.146 Posted on May 24, 2016 at 09:46:53 PM by Mark LIght

I have a 1655 gas that has a faint knock in the engine, it begins at about 1800 rpm. The throttle arm of the governor also pulses. This does not occur at lower rpm. I have replaced the rod bearings and the governor has been updated. Could this be cam gears or should I be looking somewhere else? The engine has about 4500 hours on it.. Thanks

Re(1): 1655 Gas Knock

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 10:39:30 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a rough timing gear. I would get a mechanic's stethoscope and see if I could locate the noise in he engine with it. Those noises travel around sometimes. Larry

Oliver 550 Carb and Governor

IP: 173.215.0.78 Posted on May 24, 2016 at 09:35:29 PM by Steve Wiebers

I have an oliver 550 and the carb was all full of rust when I got it. I cleaned everything good and the low speed port in the bowl was still plugged. At that point the tractor ran great at mid and high speed with great governor response, but I couldn't get it to idle well so I bought a new nozzle/emulsion tube since that feeds the low speed port off the side ports. I broke the old nozzle when I tried to take it out(rusted in) and had to drill it out so I had nothing to compare to after I got the new nozzle. After changing the nozzle and finishing cleaning the carb it idled great, however it wouldn't throttle up without dying(was running lean). I then bought a new main jet (new jet was alot smaller hole than the original) that the carb shop recommended. After I changed the jet it runs good at all speeds now except the governor has a big lag before it kicks in. The motor has to really lug down now, where before it worked perfect. Any thoughts on what to do next would be appreciated. The carb is a TSX 811 and I had problems locating the emulsion tube and jet for it. I never knew that the nozzle and main jet had that much interaction or that there were different size nozzles. I would have also thought that my new jet would have been bigger since it acted like it was running lean (had to screw out main adjuster all the way to get it to run before I changed the jet.) Any thoughts on whats going on here would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve

Re(1): Oliver 550 Carb and Governor

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 10:36:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you should check the adjustment between the carb and the governor arm to make sure that the governor is in phase with the carb. With the throttle lever in the high speed position, the rod should come just forward of the hole in the governor arm -- like an 8th or 16th of an inch. Just sightly. Larry

Oliver 77 clutch

IP: 70.74.108.167 Posted on May 24, 2016 at 07:30:23 PM by J Miller

Hello, I have a 77 standard, and the clutch wont disengage. I have seen lots of questions regarding this, but I think my situation may be different as this tractor had been in use that day for about 5 hours before this happened(not sitting for long periods like most of the other stories I have seen). I was mowing with a pto mower when the mower blade hit an anthill and stalled out the tractor. Since that happened, the clutch wont disengage. The clutch pedal still moves freely and with normal resistance. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Re(1): Oliver 77 clutch

IP: 172.4.207.196 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 04:28:48 PM by 90%ret'd

That sounds like the cutch fork is not moving the throw out bearing and fingers far enough to release, but it could a super rare situation that I ran into once a long time ago. The clutch free play was ok, but the PTO shaft had fatigued and broke up enough inside the hollow clutch shaft that it locked itself to the hollow clutch shaft and the tractor acted just like you are describing. You might try removing the PTO shaft just to check for that possibility as it takes only a few minutes to do.

Re(2): Oliver 77 clutch

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 10:31:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that possibly the PTO drive shaft was affected when you hit that ant hill. What I would do is remove the cover at the back of the tractor where the PTO lever is attached. After you get the PTO clutch exposed, remove the 3 cap screws that are ahead of the PTO clutch. Then, use a pry bar and bring the PTO drive shaft and clutch out of the tractor. This may be a hard pull if the shaft started to break and swelled up inside the clutch shaft. If this has taken place, it will be very evident after you get the drive shaft out. This won't be fun! Larry

Water in instrument cluster

IP: 98.161.38.244 Posted on May 24, 2016 at 01:04:32 PM by Larry Kruse

The Heat and fuel gage and idiot light cluster on my 550 has accumulated moister. Is there a way to dry them out? Can a drill a hole in the top of the plastic lens to vent the moisture?

Re(1): Water in instrument cluster

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 10:23:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I would not drill any holes in it. I would pull 2 of the indicator lights out and see if you can get a hair dryer in there and dry it out. It will probably take a bit of time to dry. Larry

1750

IP: 70.194.108.54 Posted on May 22, 2016 at 04:17:34 PM by Doug

Hi Larry, it's me again. Today's problem is a bearing in the steering column, the part that comes through the dash. The bearing has disintegrated. Is that bearing still available or will I be on a wild goose chase as usual with these old Oliver parts? I got 2 1750s and a 1650 and all 3 are testing my patience this spring! Gotta love them though. Thanks for your help, Larry!

Re(1): 1750

IP: 70.194.108.54 Posted on May 22, 2016 at 05:16:56 PM by Doug

Actually it seems that the female splines on the column may be worn too. The Hydramotor splines seem to be ok. I remember talking to you about that awhile back. I bought a distributor from you. Would you happen to have a steering column or are those still available through AGCO?

Re(2): 1750

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on June 5, 2016 at 05:38:49 PM by Larry Harsin

No. These parts are no longer available. You will just have to tighten it up as much as you can and try to use it. Larry

Rear main seal

IP: 216.249.232.110 Posted on May 22, 2016 at 09:46:07 AM by larry

i purchased a 1962 550 and when i started using it,i find i have a rear main seal leaking.what is the best way to go,split or pull the engine and what should i do when i get there.

Re(1): Rear main seal

IP: 129.41.205.101 Posted on May 23, 2016 at 03:43:31 AM by David

Where do you tell it is leaking?? You got a pic?? I just bought a 62 550 myself now you got me wondering??? Did you try any BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer??? I have heard good things on this..

Re(2): Rear main seal

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 23, 2016 at 07:38:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I would do a Z split (like for a clutch job). Then, remove the flywheel and replace the rear main seal. You may want to consider installing a lip type seal. The newer 550s used them, but it is a matter of your preference. You will have to decide. Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 174.29.109.80 Posted on May 21, 2016 at 12:01:32 PM by Gerry

Just brought home a nicely restored 1650. Started fine when we put it on the trailer but now that I'm home with it (8500ft elevation) it will generate a lot of smoke but won't fire up. Is there an adjustment I should make for elevation (he was at about 4400ft. Help! I need to get it off the trailer, BTW, I tried using the glow plug for about 20 sec and it still didn't start.

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 07:26:28 AM by Larry Harsin

I would give it a small amount of ether and get it started. This particular model tends to be the way you describe, and higher elevation would aggravate this. Check your re-heater to make sure it is heating. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 69.26.10.96 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 04:16:25 PM by Bill Wagner

I have a 1650 and the guy who bought it new said it needed a bit of ether at 60 degrees. Or you can hold that manifold pre-heater button for more like 40 seconds, not 20. It is just the nature of the beast. When it is warm it starts instantly. Good luck with a great tractor.

Oliver 550

IP: 135.84.192.67 Posted on May 20, 2016 at 02:54:55 PM by David McGough

I just bought a 550 had one 20 years ago love it.. Will it take a 6' bush hog???

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 21, 2016 at 07:41:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes! It certainly will!! Larry

1750

IP: 70.194.102.82 Posted on May 19, 2016 at 11:30:52 AM by Doug

Hi Larry. I'm looking for a carburetor for a 1750. I have a USX 36 on it now but was told it may not be correct. This one needs rebuilt, but I'd rather find the correct carburetor first . Another source said I should get the cast iron bowl carburetor . Thanks ahead for your help and time

Re(1): 1750

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 20, 2016 at 07:48:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I would stay away from the cast iron, because they are awfully expensive. They are o.k. to use, however. A USX 37 is what goes on there, but what you have probably works o.k. Call Valu-Bilt and talk to those guys to get another one. 888-828-3276. Larry

1850 pto shaft will not turn off

IP: 50.110.164.18 Posted on May 16, 2016 at 07:58:44 PM by adam hoopengardner

We just bought an 1850 diesel and the pto does not disengage. Where should I start?

Re(1): 1850 pto shaft will not turn off

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 17, 2016 at 07:02:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Read your Operator's Manual about the adjustments on the PTO. If you can't get it corrected after reading that, you may have warped clutch disks. They tend to want to turn especially when the tractor is cold. They get better when the oil is warm. But if your adjustments are correct, the unit may have to be disassembled and new cutch disks installed. Larry

Oliver 1655 diesel

IP: 99.117.253.181 Posted on May 14, 2016 at 05:11:28 PM by Bob Gerhart

My 1655 has a worn input shaft. I'm considering welding 2 of the gears together as there are plenty of good splines left. How difficult is it to change the shaft? Is it possible to get the clips of by just removing the shifter or does the whole top of the transmission have to come off. Have you had any experience with my cheaper welding fix?

Re(1): Oliver 1655 diesel

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 16, 2016 at 07:45:28 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd recommend that you replace the drive shaft. That is going to require that the engine be removed. Yes, I have heard of guys trying to weld them together etc. It is not a good way to fix them. Larry

Rims

IP: 208.83.126.112 Posted on May 12, 2016 at 11:27:58 AM by chris

Why can't I find 13x26 6-loop rims for a 550 HC?

Re(1): Rims

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 13, 2016 at 07:52:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Kent Gordon in Palestine, TX. 903-729-8349 or Larry Svehlak in Taylor TX. 512-633-5014. Or you could check with Miller Tire. their website is www.millertire.com - Larry

Oliver 1850 hydraulic housing

IP: 198.254.217.237 Posted on May 10, 2016 at 01:26:43 AM by Dave Gardner

Can I use rtm instead of the rubber and paper gaskets between the rear end, reservoir and hydraulic housing.will there be enough clearance between the hydraulic pump drive gears.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 hydraulic housing

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 12, 2016 at 07:01:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use the gaskets. Larry

1650 timing mark

IP: 66.44.138.84 Posted on May 8, 2016 at 05:36:21 PM by Randy

My 1650 has been pinging under load, I checked the timing but have a question--the operators manual says set the 22 degree mark with the pointer. Is the mark on the flywheel TDC or is it 22 degrees. it seems the timing was previously was set with mark being TDC, (which would be over advanced). I set timing using the mark as 22 degrees and the pinging is basically gone and tractor seems to have more power. I see no letters or numbers by the flywheel mark. thanks.

Re(1): 1650 gas timing mark

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 9, 2016 at 07:55:09 AM by Larry Harsin

There was a timing tape (that shows the degrees) on the flywheel originally and that is probably gone. The correct timing is 22¼ at 2200 rpm. With the tape being gone, I would set the timing at TOC with the gin at slow idle. That should be fairy close. If you try to use this tractor with the engine pinging whiled you are using it, it will eventually destroy the engine. Larry

Re(2): 1650 gas timing mark

IP: 76.77.192.46 Posted on May 9, 2016 at 12:54:19 PM by Randy

I didn't see a sticker. so the line etched in on the flywheel is that the TDC mark? someone did paint it to highlight it but I can tell there is a line there

Re(3): 1650 gas timing mark

IP: 66.44.138.84 Posted on May 9, 2016 at 08:02:33 PM by Randy

I think I have it figured out. tonite I checked timing at idle, I found another mark-this one has the letter T by it. I never saw this mark before, only the mark with no labeling. so the 2nd mark has to be the 22 degree mark, if I use the T mark as TDC, 2nd mark is right on 22 degrees. whoever timed it last either did it by ear wrong or thought the 22 mark was TDC, so the timing originally was actually at 40 degrees. I cant believe I've used this tractor for 4 years this way. it always started perfectly and ran good. it only started to ping last fall/winter when acelling on the road or on the snowblower. I thought it was maybe bad gas, but new gas didnÕt help any. it seems like a different tractor already. I almost cant wait for winter again. just kidding. thanks.

Re(4): 1650 gas timing mark

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 12, 2016 at 07:05:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad I could help you figure it out. Larry

1650 gas

IP: 66.230.245.170 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 10:44:08 AM by Arnie

Making progress. I would like to know the rocker arm stands torque specs. Thanks

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 8, 2016 at 08:07:31 AM by Larry Harsin

About 30-35 foot pounds. Larry

1650D loud noise

IP: 163.185.148.241 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 02:58:45 AM by Rudy Anderson

I bought a 1650D at a sale. The problem is there is loud growling noise when releasing the clutch. It does not matter if it is in gear or neutral. I am thinking there is most likely a bearing out in the transmission? It does have the Under/Direct/over. What is your thoughts?

Re(1): 1650D loud noise

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 07:14:55 AM by Larry Harsin

There are many possibilities. You will have to check it out more and narrow it down. Larry

White 2-135 over/under

IP: 104.205.241.167 Posted on May 5, 2016 at 08:07:02 PM by Jon

My white 3 spd is losing 1.5liters of perma-tran , in a 3hr-4hr period. I don't believe its leaking into the engine sump or the rear end, by confirming oil levels several times. There is lot of oil under the belly of the tractor if you crawl underneath it. Can you suggest how or where else this might be leaking from? I don't want to have to pull the engine to check.

Re(1): White 2-135 over/under

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 07:13:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any ideas for you. I don'r work on those. Larry

1850 Diesel Alternator Voltage Regulator wiring

IP: 192.182.186.15 Posted on May 4, 2016 at 10:13:12 AM by David Norrod

Hello, I have a question regarding my 1850 Diesel- equipped with a AMP Gauge not a light. I installed new replacement voltage regulator wiring, 2 new 6V batteries and have replaced with Remy rebuilt Alternator. Alternator was tested and is a good rebuild. The recommended replacement regulator is a 4 blade ( Original is the 3 blade with Regulator F to Alternator Field and #3 using the orange wire back to Ign. switch) and what my book shows as correct. However Rebuild Alternator came with these instructions for wiring Alt to Regulator for unit with Gauge and this is unexpected to me and I am wondering your thoughts if this sounds OK for an Oliver: Regulator F to Alternator F, Regulator 2 to Ignition Switch (I'm using orange wire that was originally on Old #3) Regulator #3 added jumper to Alternator Battery post so as to be with the other battery wire to Alternator. Lastly, Regulator #4 blade is not used. Does this sound OK ? Thank you very much.

Re(1): 1850 Diesel Alternator Regulator Gearbox

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 07:11:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I think so. Larry

1850 Diesel Alternator Regulator wiring

IP: 104.240.181.38 Posted on May 6, 2016 at 07:46:32 PM by D. Norrod

Thank You! I really appreciate your thoughts. This wiring plan seems the best of all I had tried. I didn't want to run tractor much till I asked however. The system does shows a charge now and without the very erratic Amp Gauge needle movement that I was seeing with the other wiring suggestions. For other readers... my (Book)original Regulator 158732-AS (Delco Remy #1119517) a 3 blade base mount regulator (with rubber shock absorbing base plate) was actually still on the tractor. Upon opening, the points were arc burned together -- Emory paper cleaned that right up - but 1 ceramic resistor (on the rear) was ready to fail due to corrosion. Note: that part# is now an Obsolete part# (probably due to the absorbing base). I replaced with aftermarket 4 blade regulator. I purchased off eBay but it looks like the ABC 1148. This is a Base mount style and was simply bolted back to the original Oliver/Delco shock absorbing base plate and aligned great. My (Book) Alternator #158578-AS (Delco Remy 1100731) had already been replaced before, with a rebuild unit, and it was labeled a Delco #1100771. I replaced that with a exact replacement rebuilt unit by REMY part #WD20169 from Rock Auto -- for $34.89 which includes the $5.00 core charge, and I received free shipping. This same Alternator was used on GM cars and trucks late 60s early 70s. REMY #20169 looks identical and was a exact fit for me.

1750 gas

IP: 70.194.98.89 Posted on May 2, 2016 at 05:16:59 PM by Doug

Hi Larry, I need a distributor for a 1750. I am told the Mallory has been discontinued. What do we do us Oliver guys with the gassers now? Thanks in advance for any help!

Re(1): 1750 gas

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 3, 2016 at 07:28:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I'll look in my stash and see what I have. Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

1755 Gearbox

IP: 68.44.126.250 Posted on May 1, 2016 at 09:24:23 PM by Gerald Abbott

on our 1755 Wide Front end Oliver the Gear box cap breaks have replaced all bearing and seals even another Box still seams like to much pressure.Is it possible the Lines are crossed?

Re(1): 1755 Gearbox

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 2, 2016 at 07:16:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the lines are crossed. This is a common problem. I would use longer bolts and put Lock-Tight on them. Larry

Re(2): 1755 Gearbox

IP: 68.44.126.250 Posted on May 4, 2016 at 09:14:58 AM by Gerald Abbott

Thanks for the Reply Larry, We feel we have a Hydraulic Problem is it possible the Pressure is to High? The pump looks to have been changed before we Got the Tractor.

Re(3): 1755 Gearbox

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on May 25, 2016 at 07:23:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Have you checked any of these pressures?? Anything is possible. Larry

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